BREVIARY FOR EVERYONE ON THE SEA
51 PORTS OF CENTRAL DALMATIA
MAY - JUNE 2012. NO. 1
Touc
h my D
almat
iaTo
uch m
y Dalm
atia
Where to eatWhere to eat
Summer before May
MATINEE! WELCOME!
Combining the feast of Easter to the First of May, many who are “addicted” to the beauty of Split-Dalmatia County, its sea, its islands and towns on the coast, rushed to their
destinations. They did not want to miss the end of April announced almost 30 degrees, completely clear with a slight wind, a real breath of summer in the midst of spring
We are not accidentally on the
island. Brač is the fi rst island to
reach - when you leave from Split, but
also from elsewhere. On Brač there
is the highest peak, of all our islands
in the Adriatic Sea (778 meters), it is
the largest in Dalmatia (395 square
kilometers), and it is best connected
with the mainland. With Split there is
real bridge ferry connection. Brač is one
of the few islands that doesn’t have the
homonymous capital.
The main characteristic of Brač are
numerous coves framed by thick pine
forest. On the island there is no lack of
sun or shade. Even in ancient times Brač
was popular for holidays, as evidenced
by the remains of old Roman villas,
such as on a sandy bay near Lovrečina
Postira. Zlatni rat with its 200 meter long
sandy tongue speaks all languages even
today. Bol is number one, it’s unique and
has been for years the winner of all sorts
of tourist awards.
Anyway Brač is famous for its stone.
All its towns are built in white stone.
Its heart, under the skin, is all of white
marble. Brač stone has sailed the world.
Of that stone it was built Diocletian
Palace in Split, the White House in
Washington, the Parliament and New
Palace in Vienna, the Parliament in
Budapest, the Regent Palace in Trieste...
Confortably to this, Brač is also
the island of artists. It’s enough to
mention Ivan Rendić and his belfry in
Ložišća, not to go any further, or the
whole artistic families like the Jakšić...
There is no port on Brač where you
will not see and enjoy some stone
sculpture that capture you by its beauty.
Let’s sail around Brač! But if you feel
by Elizabeta Sonjara Garber
Summer, Brač,
Photo: Sumartin on the island of Brač
2
3
so good on your pier and you want to
stay there longer, you can always make
a trip to the island inland (in Škrip, the
desert Blaca, to Vidova gora) or to the
small towns on the other side of the
island. You can even take a bus, that
you come across constantly, wandering
around everywhere, connecting all
villages, as the Flying Dutchman. Or
some of the fi rst sailors caught in the
lens of our fi rst photoreport.
Here is the real matinee. Welcome!
On the island. Just before the summer,
before May! Combining the feast of
Easter to the First of May, many who
are “addicted” to the beauty of Split-
Dalmatia County, its sea, its islands and
towns on the coast, rushed to their
destinations. They did not want to miss
the end of April announced almost 30
degrees, completely clear with a slight
wind, a real breath of summer in the
midst of spring. Since we talk about the
island that has a lot of the most, the
nearest, the largest, the highest then it is
quite expected that the Brač as a super-
island drew the Port News attention.
ABSOLUTELY NOTTO MISS
Sojourning on the island of
Brač, you, in no way, should
miss to taste Vitalac, a
typical Brač dish of lamb
off al, prepared with special
aromatic herbs, that you
can order in any tavern,
for example at the tavern
Tomić in Gornji Humac,
or at Kopačina in Donji
Humac, but we especially
recommend the tavern
on Vidova gora. That dish
is on the Croatian list of
protected cultural goods.
Brač cheese from breeds
of sheep named pramenka
will soon be found too
on the list of protected
Croatian products. Center
dairy sheep on the island is
in Nerežišće, but you’ll fi nd
it anywhere on the island,
in Nerežišće you should’t
miss it.
Wine and olive oil for
centuries are trademarks
of Brač. They are on sale
everywhere, but one of the
most known winery is Wine
Senjković in Nerežišća,
Wine Baković in Murvica
and the winery Jako vino
(Strong Wine) in Bol. There
are many types of wines
among which the most
famous is Bolski Plavac.
Eco-ethno village Dol
becomes a real culinary
destination. It is located
just two kilometers above
Postira. In the tavern Toni,
for example, after all the
specialties, you can enjoy
hrapaćuša, Brač cake of
almonds and walnuts.
Enjoy!
Recommendation:before May
Supetar is a Brač New York. The center of everything. His Manhat-tan is Riva, the waterfront. Already
in late April and early May it was full of fragrences of famous Brač lamb, fi sh and Slavonian kulen... Celebration of the cuisine seasonal feast, lasted for days. Yummy!
“Parent” is the oldest preserved bracera on the Adriatic coast (built in 1907) and protected Croatian cultural heritage. Now it is property of the town of Supetar and it will serve – instead of transport-ing the stone as in the old times – as a pride and joy. When it is fully renovated.
SPLITSKASplitska is a pure extract of beauty: not even the Omiš pirates could resist not to destroy it many years ago. Ah, if they could see it today!
BOBOVIŠĆAThe poet Vladimir Nazor still protects his Bobovišća. His monument is by the sea.
There is no crowd neither in the high season. You’ll easily fi nd the marina-berth.
SUPETAR, MANHATTAN, “PARENT”
LOŽIŠĆARight above Bobovišća, just a short walk, there is Ložišća, with its houses, the beautiful church tower of the fa-mous artist Rendić and lots of beautiful memories.
MILNAYou are out of potatoes or beer, there is no more oil or gasoline for the boat, or you come to enjoy a bit of partying, restaurants and music? Milna is waiting for you.
POSTIRA, YOU CAN SEE OMIŠThe stone statue takes care of its Postira.From Postira you can see Omiš.
There are lot of new places for sailors in the port of Postira. And still they will scramble for the rope.
PUČIŠĆAProud Pučišća, the center of culture and the pleasures of summer, all in a pack-age.
BOL, THE PAIN OF BEAUTYFor the fi rst of May, column of Sloveni-ans arriving by ferry to Supetar straight to Bol. Armed with surfboards, they start immediately to sail on the breeze. Yachts arrive by sea, cars descend from the top of the hill to the harbor. Bol does not need the season. Even in the middle of the winter, Bol bursts with beauty of the colours and sound of the sea.
Scenes from Life in BračScenes
Postira’s roofs
Splitska
Su tivan
Scenes from Life in Bračs from Life in Brač
MASLINOVAMaslinova (Olive Bay) is a bay on the southern coast of Brač, near Milna town, on the other side of the hills. It can be visited only for breath of freshness from hatcheries and a look on the ships ga-rage in the cave.
MIRCAThere is nothing, but still it has all. A bit of a small pier, stone and gravel. This is Mirca.
POVLJAPovlja prepared for the summer, too. Awnings are widespread, front terraces removed, smells fi sh stew.
SUMARTINFor Sumartin it was always requested a place more. Now the requests could be accepted. There is a new bigger pier. Trawlers have already unloaded the fi sh and the sailors are resting around the ta-ble. In the distance, on the horizon, ap-pear fi rst sails.
SUTIVANSo small but lacks nothing. Only a little above the sea there is a Nature park, an oasis for animals, ideal for a visit with your children.
LOVREČINALovrečina is dragged sandy cove where people came to swim some thousand years ago. It is also a rich archaeological site with remains of early Christian ba-silicas, baptismal font, sarcophagus and ancient Roman villas.
Fishing boat sails from Sutivan on Brač
6
The opening of the marina in Masli-
nica on the western part of the is-
land of Šolta is certainly an unusu-
al event in Central Dalmatia. It is the fi rst
port of nautical tourism on the island.
The pier is 90 meters long and covered
with white Brač stone.
The owner Hartmut Lademacher,
a German businessman, in 2007 opened
a renovated old castle Martinis-Marchi,
built in 1706.
Guests can use the seven apartments
of 30 – 208 square meters. Each apart-
ment is specialy designed and furnished
to preserve the original style of the cas-
tle.
The cost investment in the marina was
approximately four million euros. The
Nautical port is built on the site of the
former moorings.
Goran Babin, manager of the marina
and the castle, indicates that the port has
55 berths with all the supporting equip-
ment, reception and catering facilities.
All the projects have the signature of
the Split architect Davor Hauptmann,
including the waterfront, whilst the pier
is the work of engineer Josip Prcela. The
biggest help in the overall project devel-
opment and logistical works came from
the master Leo Kuret.
A SUMMER HIT THE FIRST NAUTICAL PORT ON THE ISLAND: MASLINICA 2012
THE MARINA NEARBY A
BRAČ 2012. YOUR WELCOME!
Publisher:Port Authority of Split-Dalmatia County
For the publisher:Port Authority director Domagoj Maroević
Editor in chief:Domagoj MaroevićEditor:Mario Garber
Editorial concept and design:Garber media d.o.o.
Editorial staff:Domagoj Maroević, Ante Sanader, Mario Garber, Elizabeta Sonjara Garber, Segor Garber (logo design), Ana Gaspar, Leo Kuret, Jakša Fiamengo, Vinko Tranfić, Filip Zlatan Zoričić, Tomislav Akrap
Photos:Garber media d.o.o.
Translation into English:Ana Gaspar
Lector:Elizabeta Sonjara Garber
Prepress:Nenad Nazlić
Printed in:Split, Slobodna Dalmacija Print d.o.o.
COVER PHOTOS:Port News: Pučišća on BračLučki vjesnik: Milna on Bra
ISSN 1848-4689
Maslinica on the island of Šolta
Sail with our Compass!
7
The Port Authority of the Split-Dal-
matia County launched the maga-
zine Port News with the intention to
welcome guests: travelers from the sea,
sailors, boaters, fi shermen and ordinary
adventurers and curious tourists. The
aim is to facilitate their fi rst encounter
with our ports and their staying in them.
The project was conceived as a sea-
sonal signpost to be published in four
or more occasions from May through
to October. It will be a sort of guide and
a feedback of life out at sea and in our
towns and will open the possibility to
exchange experiences, updated ad-
vices to our guests and as in any other
book of complaints, a kind of brevi-
ary. On our website we will also start
an electronic edition of the magazine.
The Port News can be obtained by
anyone who enters our ports when
down loading the fee for mooring
therefore the magazine has no com-
mercial pretensions but it can become
a property of the population in the
fi fty-one (51) ports of our county if the
value of it is recognized. Our aim is to
open up to the lives and the interests
of the local people living in the ports,
the maritime travelers, the tourists and
general lovers of the sea in every way.
The port has a signifi cant place in
the life of our county, not just during the
tourist season. Furthermore the tourist
season has all possibilities to become
longer and larger. It could be said refer-CASTLE
IN THE BEGINNING IT WAS THE PORT
ring to our Country, the ports are one
of the most direct sources of life. The
people of any small town, from time
immemorial, have fl ocked to the water-
front when the ship arrives in the port.
This is the traditional ceremony.
The belonging of it’s Islands to the
mainland of Split is based on the phe-
nomenon of its ports, just like as fi ngers
are tied like roots to the palms of our
hands. Everything boils down to the
harbor life, there is nothing without that
identity! Without the port, no one can
sail in or sail out and the open sea with-
out a port has no beginning and no end.
The story of our ports is a monologue
on how we live and how you can share
this life with us on your fi rst visit and
even better, if this will help in prompt-
ing you the right reasons to return, our
magazine Port News will serve directly
as a GPS or compass.
by Domagoj Maroević,
Port Authority director
I am glad – from this site – to welcome all the Dal-
matians and their guests in our region, we should
dare to say, not wanting to be pretentious, „tho
most beautiful in the world“, that is the „seventh
among all the southern Europeans“. That is the
experts from FDI Magazine opinion. They ranked
the regions, seeking the most promising. With Spa-
nish Catalonia and Madrid in the fi rst place – our
small towns of Split-Dalmatia county have not-
hing to be ashamed of. And with Port News in your
pocket and a pier in your GPS – you can begin your
tour! I assure you, you’ll remember this experience
of a lifetime!
ANTE
SANADER,
COUNTY
PREFECT
With Madrid and Catalonia
What do you thing about the notion ‘pure nature’ ? Does it awaken in you your youth, in
spite of your actual age? Because, feel-ing young and still ‘intact’, like undis-covered nature, nowadays is something unreal just as untouched nature. And therefore over and over again, with the adrenaline in the stern, sailing is a must. Detecting the undetected, strip-ping to the naked truth, fever before travel, butterfl ies in your stomach, while you come closer and closer to the boat to uncord and to sail to the infi nite, to-wards the very beginning. Resist the end as long as possible. And that’s why – to sail is a must. Many things will cross your mind... But when the sun sailed to the west, at the sunset swollen from the sun and salt, your mission and your motto ‘to sail is a must’ will surrender to the smooth sea and will admit, fi nally: you must sail
in. Let us be honest: you also have to
have dinner!
Every town on the coast and on is-
lands of Central Dalmatia, at the sun-
set, deserves the fi ve stars title for ‘un-
touched nature’. Because one can always
enjoy the wild, deserted cove by day
and also during the night, but it’s abso-
lute pity not to sail to the town, and just
remain afar to look at fl ickering lights
who evoke provoking and hidden se-
crets. Perhaps you could resist just one
evening alone.
But the next one – you’ve got to
sail in. In Drvenik, Nečujam or Masli-
nica both on the island of Šolta, Stari
Grad, Hvar, Jelsa, Vrboska on the island
of Hvar. Bol, Milna, Bobovišće, Sutivan,
Pučišća on the island of Brač, Vis, Komiža
on the island of Vis. Entire waterfalls of
words have been spent on that eternal
theme, whether town or deserted cove.
But the compromise is still the most ac-
ceptable, because only in that way noth-
ing is missed. It’s a shame not to take a
chance. So: during day light, enjoy the
deserted cove, and at sunset, sink into
the romantic atmosphere of some small
town that Dalmatia is well known for.
There is nothing more true that there is nothing more sublime as the peace and quiet of the deserted cove and even if you so addicted to such a place, come evening you can still sail to some small quiet Dalmatian town, take a walk and dinner somewhere, and go back to sleep into nearby cove. It is also true that when the sun sets it’s nice to have dinner on board in the untouched nature, but then? In the darkness surrounding you, you’ve got nothing to do. Although in this time and age that we are techni-cally advanced in communication with mobile phones, emails, etc... it is also good to remember that we have valid and rapid means of transportation with boat tenders or infl atable. But what can beat stepping into your own boat after spending the evening in some nice lo-cal tavern and tasting good Dalmatian
food.
SAILING IN AS A MUST
Touch my Dalmatia!Touch my Every town along the coast and on the islands of Central Dalmatia is just idyllic rat- Every town along the coast and on the islands of Central Dalmatia is just idyllic rat-ing five stars of ‘untouched nature’. For one can always enjoy the wild and deserted ing five stars of ‘untouched nature’. For one can always enjoy the wild and desertedcoves. It’s a true pity not to sail by these towns during the day as much as during the coves. It’s a true pity not to sail by these towns during the day as much as during the
night hours, remaining afar to observe the flights evoking hidden secretsnight hours, remaining afar to observe the flights evoking hidden secrets
Elizabeta &Mario Garber
Pokomina, the cove on the north coast of Hvar
8
99
Almost everything that a wild bay
can off er you, can be off ered by the lo-
cal town. For when taverns are closed,
you can always remain on board in com-
pany, singing , or look for some privacy
with your husband, wife, boyfriend – re-
tiring under the bow. In the wild bay one
can feel a little bit uncertain, and still
someone feels it as a challenge. How-
ever, there is no more so deserted coves
where one can feel that solitude chal-
lenge. It is easier to fi nd the comfort of
solitude in the crowd of the town than
in the wild cove with several other boats
from which you can hear every breath or
sip of wine.
By day ‘the cove’, by night ‘the town’!
By day you’ve got to remember where
you will return to sleep, if the town boils
at the midnight and you want to get
back into intimacy with subtle crickets.
If you, at the moment of awaking, have
listened the weather broadcast, you’ll
be able to easily assess the risk of these
more than romantic naval night maneu-
vers. It is a must... to sail in and anchor,
by day and by night.
It is not easy to resist not to anchor.
Well, it’s hard to resist, when the sum-
mer is almost naked, when it’s stripped
and dressed, it’s diffi cult to choose the
town or the wild cove where to anchor.
To anchor or not to anchor, that is the
question. However, it’s the most beauti-
ful to complete the day in some of our
beautiful little towns, with the full im-
mersion into the Dalmatian soul.
For sure She will insist to sail into the
town as soon as, about noon, the wind
rises from the west and goes towards
the bottom of most hidden bays only to
die on its pebble beaches. It’s better to
cord safely somewhere to the coast, She
would say. And He would like to fi sh still,
or to turn the boat the upwind, although
the mistral could be strong for a pas-
sionate sailor as well as for the hopeful
fi sherman.
Remember, though, that it’s most
beautiful to fi sh early in the morning or
in the moments when the day and the
night are touching each other. The only
more beautiful thing is to, at fi ve in the
Touch my Dalmatia!Dalmatia! Every town along the coast and on the islands of Central Dalmatia is just idyllic rat--ing five stars of ‘untouched nature’. For one can always enjoy the wild and deserted coves. It’s a true pity not to sail by these towns during the day as much as during the
night hours, remaining afar to observe the flights evoking hidden secrets
morning, go to buy fresh loaves, make
a coff ee and in all tranquillity sail alone
to the fi rst destination, while She is still
sleeping under the bow. In the morning
there is nice smooth sea, the intact sea
surface, that almost one should not
sail, not to disturb the harmonius royal
rule of the nature that is still reluctant to
awake, probably tired also of us.
You’ve got to sail in, you’ve got to
taste the nice recipes, typical dishes, to
watch nice old houses behind the shut-
ters, a deep shade of taverns, shops from
which spring out the old customs, sou-
venirs, pictures... And one should have
a little fun, feel the atmosphere, shoot
some nice photos. Listen to the songs
softly coming from under the vaults,
from the street corners, from the gates
of the houses, taste and feel the humors,
smells and local customs.
And for all that you’ve got to sail in.
You should cord to the waterfront with
name, to the stone with its own pass-
port, certifi cate and matricula. Then you
could say that you are, here in the heart
of Dalmatia on the link, at the address of
Central Dalmatia, in the one of 51 ports
of Split-Dalmatia County&Authority.
Stari Grad on the island of Hvar
Kaštel Gomilica
SARDINA, GLOBAL BRAND
Sardine Factory, founded in Postira in 1906, has gained an international brand
by producing canned fi sh, and is engaged in aquaculture, breeding tuna and
white fi sh, and fi shing. Preserving the tradition of superior quality, excep-
tional possession of the original raw material, and the fostering of specifi c original
recipe in the way of processing, especially thanks to the experienced and skilled
craftsmen, sardine factory distributes its products throughout the world as a highly
recognized and sought for its brand.
Successful businessman Niko Bezmalinović and more recently his son Mislav
Bezmalinović monitor technological advances and adapt to new trends and will
move the factory into industrial zone of Postira, and in the site of the old factory
will be built fi ve-star hotel, the forth in Postira that will be the most modern one.
There are investments of about 20 million of EUR for a new factory that will pro-
duce 32 million cans of fi sh.
32 MILLION ANNUAL CANNED
Supetar
10
It should be obvious to any overseas
sailor while trying to errant waters
of Split-Dalmatia County – that Su-
petar is the second leading port im-
mediately after the Split. Supetar is the
capital of the island, being it’s economi-
cal, cultural and tourist center where
approximately one fi fth of the
total population of 5000 in-
habitants live on the Island.
Supetar, in fact, during the sum-
mer season, is the Town of Split in mini-
ature form. Both share the same des-
tiny of being transit centers, as Jadro-
linija in its statistical data registered
that through Supetar in the year 2010
transited one million and six hundred
thousand passengers (1,6 million) and
about half a million vehicles (500,000)
and the prevision is that the data for
2012 will show a great growing trend.
According to a specialized journal
in the fi eld of foreign direct investments
(FDI Magazine, The Financial Times
Group), Split-Dalmatia County is at the
seventh ranking place of the ‘’Top 10’’
of promising Souther European regions
in the competition „European city and
the region of the future’’ for 2012/2013.
These are indeed serious consid-
erations. Try to, while sailing among
these perspective investments of the
seventh southern European regions,
immagine a future in which Supetar
will function as a suburb of Split, so
that it won’t be necessary to cross the
Brač channel (Brač channel, between
the island of Brač and mainland Split).
Nowadays from Split you can
reach Supetar in less than an hour, us-
ing the regular local ferry. For there are
no more than 9,5 nautical miles. Even
the slowest little boats in the middle of
winter, every day cross the channel in
an hour, at most in two hours. At 6:15
and 6:30 in the morning the fi rst fer-
ries leave from Split and from Supetar
and pass one by another in the middle
of the channel while fi shing amateurs,
professionals and sportsmen are fi sh-
ing in the calm sea, mackerels, Span-
ish mackerel, pompano, bonito and
other fi sh. By midnight the ferries have
crossed the channel nine times, and the
weekend ferry, in the evening, when
the schoolchildren return from Split
to their homes to the island, is trans-
formed into one big spectacular night
disco of maritime transit. The last ferry
departs from Split to Supetar exactly
one minute before midnight (23:59)
just like for a Happy New Year ending!!!
You can already guess the itinerar-
ies of the sailors. From the port of the
little town of Milna, to the west coast of
Brač, the doorsteps of Split have already
been considered for years as the fi rst
destination and also as the fi rst port of
call where they can stay overnight, have
fun and in the morning take enough fuel
to venture in open sea. It is natural that
the sheltered Supetar off ers them the
chance of spending the last night before
returning to their homes, to enjoy the
environment of a bigger town and all
this in just an hour distance from Split.
The inhabitants of Supetar are trying to
become in this respect the ideal stop
over. Supetar is climbing in a distinctive
upward trend in turnover frequency with
Split, in it’s transitional function. Just as
in Split, so does Supetar follow in almost
all of what is happening on the island.
Supetar’s traffi c is fast growing, so much
so, that there are plans in the relocation
of the ferry port over to the west in or-
der to unburden the traffi c jams that
form in the middle of the peak season.
Relocation of the port would open
up space for a bigger port for larger
vessels following the trend of sailing.
In any case, every skipper, adventurer
and lover of the sea should come to
know that there is something very simi-
lar to an urban Split on the island too,
not only on continent. It is Supetar, this
charming little town with all it’s sur-
roundings that off er you everything that
is close to urban living, that you some-
times, even at the sea miss but beware!
Whilst you are on the ferry that is
docking in or whilst you are waiting in
the harbor, change quickly and put on
your ‘’make shift“ bathing costume, be-
cause in the immediate vicinity of the
ferry, there is the most transparent of
sea waters and a most beautiful and
fully occupied beach, within a few steps
from the pier. What? Just plunge into the
A Disco in the Channel
Relocation of the Port
NEWS REPORT: SUPETAR
Split on the Island In front of Split, the capital of Central Dalmatia, with a distance of barely 9,5 nautical miles across the Brač Channel, you can reach Supetar, the capital town on the island of Brač with just barely 5000 inhabitants. It goes without saying that the citizens of Split transit there with the most frequency. According to the travel data on hand from the shipping company Jadrolinija, the port of Supetar has over a million and half of people and half a million vehicles passing through
by Andrija Križančić
11
Postira is a small town on the northern coast of Brač, not far away from Supetar. As soon as
you get off the ferry you can listen to the silence and enjoy the pleasures of the sea, sun and beaches. The place was recently developed by enhanc-ing the sports tourism season because there is a registered football club who regularly competes there and thanks to its’ new Sports facilities Postira has become the place where the fa-mous Split football team Hajduk, as well as others, come to do their physi-
cal training and sports preparations.
POSTIRA
A Port with no Wind
Not only, but also the Croatian national football team goes there for training. Postira is planning to continue developing in terms of tourism in a Sports’ Center so they are constructing a Sport’s Hall, artifi cial grass courts, ten-nis courts and bowling alleys. They have also renewed and enlarged the port by building a 45 meters longer pier, so now there is a closed harbor protect-ed from most winds. There is also the availability for fi shing boats’ moorings. You can also fi nd three 4 star Hotels. Pastura, Lipa and Vrilo provide successful touristy features and the Postira mayor
Ivan Mihačić, a successful football man-ager in the smaller Dalmatian towns, nicely evokes the image of Postira as: – We are a place of barely two thou-sand inhabitants, and there are 120,000 inhabitants on all our Croatian islands which are approximately 1240, perhaps even more. Malta, an island in the midst of the Mediterranean which is smaller than Brač, barely two thirds of our island has a population of 404,000 inhabitants, because the island is something for which you need to have more concern and extra care in order to have people living there.
by Mario Garber
View of Postira
The Croatian highway from Zagreb, via Zadar and Split to Dubrovnik, passes in one its part, it could be said, near Sumartin on
the southeastern promontory of the island of Brač. Unbelievable! But it’s truth, you can reach Brač from Zagreb in very short
time. The problem are a few “little things”, that is – to complete the highway to Makarska, to improve the tunnel connection
with Makarska, and to complete the work provided for the pier in Makarska.
The port of Sumartin, which is in fact the port of town of Selca, situated on top of the hill above the harbor, so you can across
the distance on foot, is in continue reconstructing. The ferry dock is renewed, as well as one for fi shing boats, for there is the most
important fi shing fl eet for small pelagic in the Croatian Adriatic.
It is planned to transfer fi shing boats in the bay of Radonja, in which proximity it will be constructed a marina with 150 berths.
There is a rich tradition of wooden boat repair yard. Then gas station. The plan is to consolidate everything. Because when the
columns of tourists start there way from Zagreb, on highway to Makarska and then with ferries to Sumartin, it will be a turning
point in the history of the island.
From Tunnel to BračFrom Tunnel to Brač
SUMARTIN
The port of Sumartin
venik, Makarska Riviera and, of course,
Kaštel Sućurac which (as Sućuraj) bears
his name. If you didn’t know, St George
is the patron of scouts. Is there any scout
who hasn’t visited Sveti Jure, the highest
peak of Biokovo (1762 m), after Dinara
and Kamešnica the third highest moun-
tain in Croatia? Anyone who has not, let
him go immediately!
St George killed the dragon, he tied
it neck wit his belt and entered the city
with it as with a dog. So says the legend.
And history that the Emperor Diocletian
decapitated him on the 23rd of April in
290. Bad Diocletian, whose best thing
done in his life was to build the Palace
on the most beautiful part of the world
– just in the middle of Split! So at least
affi rms the people from Split.
VIS, St. GEORGE BAY
St. George Bay – the port od Vis –
is one of the largest and most beautiful
bays on the Adriatic. Deeply dragged
and protected by the hill at the bottom,
and towards the open sea by the islet
Host (with the lighthouse), this bay is
the beauty that branches into a series of
smaller coves to the peninsula Prirovo
and the town of Vis. And this town entic-
es with joy and mellowness, and, for sail-
ors that is more important, with marina-
berths, moorings and buoys. City day
was an occasion to open a high season.
SUĆURAJ, FASTER TO ZAGREB Even after Day of majority and the local celebrations, the ferry, as a bridge, connects Sućuraj with the mainland. For the people from Sućuraj it is practically faster to reach Zagreb then the town of Hvar on the same island. Probably be-cause the authorities consider that people arrive to island by boats, so the roads be-come less important. It is common knowledge that at the beginning of the last century phylloxera exterminated the vineyards at the eastern side of Hvar, so many families emigrated over the ocean. That’s why we assure you: the phylloxera happened a long time ago and here there is a good wine in abun-dance. And also the fi sh to be accompa-nied with a good wine.
PORT NEWS CALENDAR
All Saints in towns and cities of Split-Dalmatia County are generally celebrated as the Day of the majority, the patron saint, so this is an exceptional opportunity for the local people to express themselves in organizing festivities, festivals and other celebrations
WHEN THE SAINTS GO MARCHING INWHEN THE SAI
KAŠTELA, MARCH 4thGRANT OF PRINCE TRPIMIR
The people from Kaštela celebrated
their Day of the majority on the fourth
of March. In all seven towns of Kaštela
it was joyous and celebratory. And why
the 4th of March?
Because at that date Prince Trpimir in
the year 852 – quite a long time ago –
in Bijaći signed a memorandum with
which he donated the church of St.
Juraj in Putalj to Archdiocese of Split.
His grant entered into history as the fi rst
written mention of the Croats. ‘’Duke
of Croats by the grace of God’’ or ‘’dux
Croatorum iuvatus munere Divino’’. The
document is preserved in the church of
St. Juraj in Sućurac.
FAVORITE SAINT GEORGE, APRIL, 23rd
Vis, Drvenik and Sućuraj on the island
of Hvar, on the 23rd of April had local
gatherings for the day of its patron Saint
George (sveti Juraj). There were celebra-
tions in a wider area is one of the most
popular patrons of Dalmatia. Under his
general patronage there are the whole
island of Brač, islands Veli and Mali Dr-
Kaštel Lukšić
Waterfront in Vis in the summer
Baška Voda
DRVENIK, IN THE SIGN OF FERRY
Drvenik and Makarska Riviera celebrat-
ed their patron day. One can hardly
wait the opportunity for celebration,
especially in a small town in which dur-
ing the winter nothing happens. With a
melody that occasionally arrives from
the music school in the middle of the
beach, the biggest event in the town is
the ferry sailing out and in from Sućuraj
on the island of Hvar, where there was
celebration on the same day so the ferry
became in some way a long table, con-
necting one side of party to the other. A
slice of the sea, fi lled with seagulls. Pure
poetry.
WHEN THE SAINTS GO MARCHING INNTS GO MARCHING IN
The lighthouse in Sućuraj on the island of Hvar
Drvenik, a ferry to Sućuraj
15
HVAR, MAY 10thSAINT PROSPER
Inevitable Hvar. Superlative in many
ways, starting with the oldest public
theater in Europe to the highest number
of sunshine hours, an average of 2726
a year (probably you will not come just
those rare cloudy days!). Hvar has two
patron saints: St. Stephen, which rises
into the sky from the largest cathedral
square of all our small towns on the
coast, and the other – St. Prosper.
Hvar is happy to incense to his patron.
Let him take care of us! Let us live with
our sea and sun! Let us have our guests!
Make a quick trip to Hvar, quickly, before
the boats occupy the entire port! You’ve
better take your place immediately.
BAŠKA VODA, MAY 30thFEAST OF SUMMER
Municipal feast of Baška Voda, Day
of the majority, at the end of May, an-
nounces end of winter dormancy and
summer overture into joy. Well, in Baška
Voda there is extremely jovial atmos-
phere.
As in the whole littoral. Pebbles to the
infi nity. White ones.Then green pines
and blue sea. And the sea murmurs as it
retracts and pulls. Drink the sea in Baška
Voda! It is clean, nothing will happen to
you.
OMIŠ, MAY 16th SAINT JOHN OF NEPOMUK The day of the majority, 16 May, is also the patron feast of Omiš St. John Nepomuk.
The townpeople, steeped in the old pirate celebrity and known as the people who
refused to sell their town to Hollywood fi lmakers (they wanted Omiš in order to have
a wild river canyon and its estuary, long sea beaches and sure cliff of Omiška Dinara,
landscape worthy of Apache), certainly lay on discretion and know how to appreci-
ate the virtue of keeping secrets. The Saint Nepomuk – for those who don’t know –
had that virtue: he took his secret to the grave.
As confessor to the queen, he didn’t want and wasn’t allowed to divulge her secret
to the king. So the king made him burn, tie to a wheel and throw from Charles Bridge
in Prague, into the Vltava River. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!
If you intend to go to Omiš, don’t worry! The townspeople for a long time now,
don’t charge a fee for the peacefull navigation, and piracy serves them just as roman-
tic features from the past.They turned to the guitar and singing groups. There is no
song as you could listen to in Omiš!
WH
EN
TH
E S
AIN
TS G
O M
ARC
HIN
G IN
Krknjaši on the island of Veli Drvenik
Omiš
16
17
SEGET DONI, JUNE 13th St. ANTHONY OF PADUA
The people from Trogir were smart. They have lived confortably. If they hand’t built seven castles east of the city an two on
the west, one of which is present Seget Donji, there would have been fewer settlements, towns and lovely villages on the coast.
Seget was founded in the 1564 by James Rotondo, the scribe of Trogir city treasury, who was allowed to raise the castle where to
shelter, in case of war, together with his peasants.
For their patron they chose strongly favored saint in Dalmatia – St. Anthony of Padua. So their celebration day is on the 13th
of June. Saint Anthony is a saint who everyone can take as his: he is protector of children, those seeking spouse, the preachers,
the poor, expectant mothers, travelers, fi shermen, sailors, old people, harvests, horses, lost items, mail, shipwreck, starvation...
POVLJA, JUNE 24thCHARTER, LANGUAGE
MONUMENT A long time ago, Povlja on the is-
land of Brač was a safe port for the Ro-
man galleys, so there is no doubt that
you will be accepted in its warmth for a
peaceful and relaxed sleep. Only a few
houses, but well known in the world.
Among other things, the so-called The
Charter of Povlja – that is one of the old-
est linguistic monuments in the world.
It’s Benedictine monastery St. John the
Baptist’s document, from the year 1184.
St John the Baptist is the patron of
Povlja and the 24th of June is the village
Day. On the quay there is modern sculp-
ture of St John, the work of naive artist,
carved in white marble. To welcome the
visitors, no matter whence they came
from!
SUPETAR, JUNE 29thPETER, PAUL AND VICTOR
Island capital Supetar celebrates 29th
of June, the day of St. Peter (and Paul)
traditionally garnished with folk festi-
vals. Supetar is entirely dedicated to St.
Peter, as the name suggests. Supetar has
got also another patron St. Victor, cel-
ebrated on the 2nd of May.
There are so many Peters in Supetar.
As soon as you go for a walk through the
town, you’ll come across Holy Mother
Teresa and Saint Victor, the work of
sculptor Petar Jakšić. We should advise
to visit the church with its baroque or-
gan from 1737, the work of another Pe-
ter – Petar Nakić.
DRVENIK VELI AND MALIREFUGE FOR SPLIT PEOPLE
The only drawback of the beautiful
island oasis Drvenik Veli – not to men-
tion the even more wilderness, in the
positive sense, of Mali – is in proximity
to a big city of Split. So as you managed
to tie the buoy, a free one in the low
season, and full of salt and wind happily
leap on the dock... the fi rst thing you
see is a city famous face. And you have
just escaped! Well, let it be! The island is
small, but the possibilities are immense.
There is also wilderness, if you prefer. Dr-
venik Veli celebrated its patron. Krknjaši,
too. In the shallow water there is a big
quantity of grey and red mullets.
Hvar
by Ana Gaspar
How many times have you thought
during your lifetime – like in the stock
market, for life also is a kind of stock
exchange – that everything would be easier
if you know where from the wind is going to
blow, literally but also fi guratively. And at sea
it is the most important thing to be able to
foresee where from it’s going to blow. Abso-
lutely in any case. If you are a sailor – to sail
out. If you are a seafood gourmand – to sail
in.
So – how to learn? There is enormous
quantity of information on this subject, you
are bombarded with all the day. But it is not
enough. You almost need an interpreter in
order to be able to use all those informa-
tion. And who can better know than Zlatan
Filip Zoričić, the man who the whole his life
is looking for the wind to saddle it, the fa-
mous Croatian sailor, omniscient at sea, the
man whom the owners of big boats as well
as those smallest ones want to see in their
vicinity.
Beware of Seasonal Staff ! Zoričić is gold worth. Such a great friend
at sea, educated in the manner of the English
tradition of naval gentleman. It is a pleasure
to listen him talking:
– I do not choose the route, but the ship.
Because how you can choose, if ship has its
curves, drafts, length and width, so it can-
not go into shallow waters. I must be aware
that with my boat I can’t sail near the coast,
it needs deep waters, which means that I
cannot repair from the winds as others can.
If I wish to sleep calm and to have a pleas-
ant dinner with a glass of good wine, to en-
joy and to rest at the end of the day, after a
diffi cult regatta, then the choice of the place
where to overnight is up to the boat.
Sailing legend of the oldest Split sailing
club, for a few times he was the member of
the Croatian representation in sailing, Zlatan
Zoričić, the name is synonymous with eve-
rything that has to do with sea, fi shing, div-
ing, sailing, but after all that, he enjoys to be
anchored or to spend the night in one of the
PORT NEWS EXPERT
Health for Pleasureand not Disease
SPECIAL PORT NEWS SKIPPE
Once a German gentleman, an
expert, called me saying: „Our
clients who are on vacations
in Croatia would like to improve their
health condition, but do not want to feel
like patients“.
Of course! Imagine the whole family
goes for two weeks to Vela Luka on the
island of Korčula, everyone knows the
name – Kalos. Or closer – to Makarska
in Biokovka. But it’s better to imagine
the morning with the glass of iced drink
and feet submerged in the sea on the
beach of Palagruža. Visually or anyway
you want – you’re already healthy while
you’re reading this!
Is it well-being? Of course. It’s impor-
tant to spend holidays in the seamless
wellness treatment, as we now have no
idea how many people go to the beach
Bačvice in Split to walk barefoot in the
sand because considered a pure health.
The man with the diffi culties still wants
to know where he can enjoy on vaca-
tions with an eff ective rehabilitation
conspicuously announced as wellness.
As an owner of polyclinics in Split and
in Kaštela, I feel so familiar with what the
market off ers us. My impression is that
the large hotels such as the Lav and the
Radison nurture a wide range of well-
ness services.
The hotel Elaphuza on the island of
Brač off ers massage with the basic in-
gredient of noble olive oil! Furthermore
there is a special wellness ritual Blue
Sun, as implemented also in the hotel
Soline in Brela. Biokovka in Makarska
has already been famous for its excellent
physiotherapy services. Plaža in Omiš
has a medical and recreational massag-
es along with other services. Hotel Adri-
ana in Hvar off ers seven types of mas-
sage. There is a wide choice of wellness
treatment in the hotel Horizont in Baška
Voda, Rotondo in Seget Donji and Sveti
Križ in Arbanija on the island of Čiovo.
Polyclinic Tranfi ć off ers the massage
on the special balance-table that gently
sways during treatment, further relaxing
the patient, and improves and extends
the eff ects of massage.
Vinko Tranfić, senior physiotherapist
As Wind BlowsAs WinAN INTERVIEW WITH FILIP ZLATAN ZOFROM THE OLYMPIC CLASS SAILING B
A MODEST HEDONI
World famous athlete Blanka Vlašić on
therapy with Vinko Tranfi ć
18
inimitable old Dalmatian town.
– Of course, I am master of the bay and
not of the land, I dread the summer of our
ports and harbors and even the wild coves
as if it were widely published, it is more dan-
gerous than in a town port. Specifi cally, it is
understood that the sea in summer becomes
the property of everybody, and those who
don’t know about the sea all that should be
known, because they don’t live at the sea
and simply do not have the opportunity to
come to know, they are not to be blamed.
But neither I want to share the responsibil-
ity with them for all these mishaps intricate
summer adventures.
Zoričić warns that it can always happen
a classic disaster, that after you have tied
up somewhere, anchored, landed... comes
some other and throw over your anchor. If
you have just took a walk through the town,
there is an unpleasant surprise waiting for
you in case you’d like to sail out. Your rope
is beneath the rope of who came after you. It
happens everywhere on tourist maps of sea-
farers, the so-called seasonal captains.
Morning Harbor Bread But it should be pity, for this reason, not
to sail into our beautiful Dalmatian ports. Be-
cause the same thing could happen in one of
the most deserted bays in the world... So, sail
in, but be careful! If trouble does occur, then
make friends with those who are together
with you in the same trouble. It’s the only
way to get out of it, there is no use of ten-
sion and recrimination. It will not save you if
you affi rm that he is guilty and not you!
Zoričić remembers the troubles typically
of some waters:
– North side of Brač is something ex-
traordinary, there are situated seven attrac-
tive towns, from Sutivan at the extreme
west to Sumartin at the southeast from
where stretches the south coast of the is-
land. Floating there, every half an hour you
can sail in somewhere, sailing slowly for the
rest and exercise. Sutivan, Mirca, Supetar,
Split, Postira, Pučišća, Povlja... You can take a
bath, you can fi sh, or take a walk through the
town. But almost every night there is a wind,
stronger or weaker, you can never know, so
you need to prepare for that in order to avoid
any trouble. Although it’s summertime, it can
happen bad weather, even during the night,
when the afternoon mistral calms down, a
storm from the northwest or north. So once
sailed in, make sure that you are well tied.
The whole Adriatic, fortunately for sail-
ors and tourists, is covered with impeccably
detailed forecast weather reports, so you
can accurately count even when the storm
begins. It is hard to resist the lights, sounds
and smells coming from the ports, off ering
an unusual evening of fun and relax from the
sea and the sun abundantly enjoyed during
the day.
– I personally enjoy those unforgetta-
ble mornings in our small towns when the
bread just removed from the oven begins to
spread its fragrance. This mix of hunger for
the fi rst morning meal and thirst for great ex-
pectations of a new day of sailing or fi shing,
depends on your choice, in that we are un-
beatable, and I still enjoy it more in the win-
ter during unexpected calm sunny days. It is
wonderful to be securely tied in some our
19
ER
As Wind Blowsnd Blowswarm and narrow port. Where I can make the
fi rst morning coff ee or prepare something
for lunch or dinner. It’s little bit impractical, I
admit, and I don’t blame those who will hard-
ly wait to get on some wonderful shore full of
surprises at any corner, at any gate, that dur-
ing the night, turn to be a tavern, a shop or
coff ee-house.
The Secret of the Split Doors Zlatan is pleased to give always some
gold worth advice to any sailor, and he knows
everything about the sea, from cooking to
any other contrivance. In his opinion there
is a problem, for sailors, when they leave the
north coast of Brač as Makarska Riviera
in front of it, on the mainland, began just
last summer to emplify its capacities provid-
ing also marina-berths for ships. That’s why
there is the opportunity for the next summer
season, because the tourist accommodated
on the east of Brač and the Makarska Riviera,
will have a nice occasion to make a short
trips to the untouched bays of Pelješac and
near by Korčula.
– The south side of Brač is a bit inaccessi-
ble, but it’s charming during day sojourn, and
then there is the original Bol and its beaches
of Zlatni rat. However, for the night, you
should look towards the western promon-
tory of the bay Brač and Split Doors entrance
where lies deeply embedded the small town
of Milna, visited by all the sailors. Split Doors
provide security and closeness of many bays
and small towns such as Bobovišće, on the
island of Brač, or Stomorska on the island of
Šolta, and on the south side of Šolta, you can
cruise like you’re somewhere really far be-
yond the cities.
There begins the area of Zoričić, an ar-
chipelago in the west of the island of Šolta,
known for its highly skilled fi shermen, fi sh-
ing among the rocks and islets.
All this takes place in beautiful surroundings
in front of Maslinica, a place that exudes old
tradition of Šolta, fi shing and maritime. On
the north side of Šolta, Nečujam draws atten-
tion to the vast stretch of several of its inter-
nal bays, and near by there is a port of Rogač,
where you can provide with fuel.
ORIČIĆ, AN EXCLUSIVE GUIDE WITH THE ENORMOUS SAILING EXPERIENCE, BOATS TO CRUISERS, A MAN WITH THE REAL PASSION FOR SPORTS FISHING, IST WHO HAS TASTED ALL THE HARVEST OF THE ADRIATIC
Zlatan Zoričić in his „boston“
Musician Remi Kazinotti, businessman
Slavko Bralić and Zlatan Zoričić
20
At the opposite side of Maslinica, located
in the west, there are the islands of Veli and
Mali Drvenik, and after them in a moment
you reach the lighthouse and two islets
named Čelice from where you immerse in
the great bay of Trogir, which means that you
have embraced the Central Dalmatia, from
that point in the west, up to the Makarska
Riviera on the east.
– In front of the southern coast of Brač
and Šolta, between which there are the mys-
terious Split Doors, the open sea spreads, but
in the less than an hour of the slowest sailing
here you are on the islands of Hvar and Vis,
spectacular attraction in the area of 51 ports
of Split-Dalmatia County. It was not easy to
decide where to go, to the left, to the right?
And my Šolta abounds in the southern bays
– Livka, Stračinska, Tatinja and Šešula which
became marina, with some very interesting
taverns. But when you set sail towards the
island of Vis, south in the middle of the open
sea, it is an experience.
Vis is Waiting for you In Zlatan’s opinion Komiža is perhaps
the most beautiful town in Dalmatia. The
narrow streets and nice taverns kept our his-
tory through the centuries. And on the other
side of the island there is Vis. From Komiža
you can reach Biševo and Modra špilja, in the
distance you can see an unprecedented is-
land of Sveti Andrija, where, in fact, you can-
not remain safely, and staying on Biševo, too,
could be dangerous because of the stones
from the shore slide off . On the eastern side
of Vis there is Budikovci, fabulous scenery of
old captain Andro Slavić. You can tie in the
shallow water and reach restaurant swim-
ming, and you can not even imagine what
you will be served directly from the sea.
Sailing from Brač and Šolta before reaching
Vis you can stop at Hvar and famous Pakleni
otoci, in front of the town of Hvar. But, Zoričić
observes:
– It is still entirely for tourists and not
for local people. I prefer to go to Hvar in the
middle of winter. This is all fi ne and good, but
there are too many people, it means that in
my age, it isn’t suited for me. I’ve already seen
all that too many times. At the opposite side
of Hvar towards Split, you fi nd similar situ-
ation in Bol and Zlatni rat. If you choose to
spend one summer in your lifetime in Cen-
tral Dalmatia, you’ve absolutely got to go
there. From Bol, on the island of Brač, you
can see Stari Grad, Vrboska and Jelsa, on the
island of Hvar. What splendor of the cities!
Before you go to Stari Grad, you can stay for
days in large, comfortable bay of Tiha, bay for
truly carefree vacation. And every evening
you can go to Stari Grad for dinner or a walk
and if you exaggerate with the wine, the best
thing to do is to stay to sleep on board, at the
berth in town. If you want to know my opin-
ion, I think that recently only island of Vis
is totally concentrated on tourism. In addi-
tion to all expected, it can be said that there
are such big little things as the taverns in the
hills, in the villages, on farms in the interior of
the island where for example there is a tav-
ern where you eat exclusively octopus and
nothing else. It fascinates everyone. I shall
return!
I do not choose the route, but the ship. Because how you can choose , if ship has its curves, drafts, length and width, so it cannot go into shallow waters. I must be aware that with my boat I can’t sail near the coast, it needs deep waters, which means that I cannot repair from the winds as others can. If I wish to sleep calm and to have a pleasant dinner with a glass of good wine, to enjoy and to rest at the end of the day, after a difficult regatta, then the choice of the place where to overnight is up to the boat
Filip Zlatan Zoričić ispričao za Lučki vjesnik
Dense offi ng in front of the lighthouse Stončica on Vis
Anyone can confi rm, that holidaying
at sea, in a rented sailboat, will be re-
membered as unique and unforget-
table.You’ll forever remember the skipper
and sometimes you’ll also remember the
Charte Agency owner. Tomislav Akrap has
been in this business for 20 years, the equal
amount of time he has also spent working
in a former travel agency Dalmacijaturist.
– Our nautical season is seven months
long. Vis, Komiža, Milna and our other
beautiful towns are completely still before
the boat charter season begins. Nothing
absolutely happens before the arrival of
the fi rst seafarers. Those are tourists stimu-
lated by their passion for sailing. And we
should concentrate on them as our main
guests. Normally the tourist fi eld em-
ployers are set in motion only on week-
end,but the sailing tourists should be ac-
commodated from Sundays to Thursdays.
The charter shifts are normally scheduled on
Saturdays, one arrives and the other leaves.
The best indicator what the boat charter-
ing means for our tourism is the case of Vis,
which was an empty port up to a few years
ago, and now – just as many berths you’ve
got in the port so are just as many sailing
boats there in the port of Vis.The sailors
passed the time spent out at sea in idle-
ness, can hardly wait to arrive in the town.
And that’s when you have to be ready to
meet them with the doors wide opened.
In the last years there have been
big investments in the ports. This ex-
ample is the turning point and it is es-
sential to press forward to try to recog-
nize the real needs of the sailing tourist.
– For the last two years Port Authority of
Split-Dalmatia County have pulled the right
notes, such as increasing the number of
berths which revived the ports and all that
Nauti cal Tourism: investi ng in the ports and marinas enables the development of boat chartering and also extends the sailing season
to seven months
Seafarers and sailors are our main customers, and the number of them depends on the number of marina berths, so improving and enlarging the ports and docks, according to Tomislav Akrap, the owner of a boat charter agency, is the right thing to do for the sake of nautical development and progress
“Tomislavija”
Having been working in this fi eld for so many years, one has experienced
some unbelievable stories. Here’s what Tomislav Akrap cannot forget:
– I love the sea and I can seldom resist, when needed, not to be skipper the boat
myself. I remember a team of doctors from Australia. They came with their girlfriends, wives,
nurses, female doctors... intending to have a good time here. The atmosphere was just won-
derful. I showed them many things, I cooked for them, I’ve brought them to wild coves or
into our beautiful towns. But they weren’t able to fi nd Croatia not even on the map. So they
were asking constantly what was name of this beautiful country. At the end it turned to be a
true stunt. And when the time came for them to leave, among sad farewells, one said to me:
“ I know what this country’s name is, we will not forget you, it’s called Tomislavija!” – Tomislav
Akrap, the owner of the agency Nivacharter, fi nished his story laughing.
CHARTER STORY
Coast Safari
goes to benefi t of everyone. The harbor is es-
sential, as a place from where a sailor starts,
but all the other ports, even the smallest
ones, have to be ready to accept sailors –
Akrap concludes his refl ection.
Green Cave on Budikovci, the island of Vis
21
You have sailed from the west to Central
Dalmatia, in the sea of Split-Dalmatia
County. And, of course that instantly
opened your appetite. There are so many
dishes you have to taste! I assure you, there
are, in all those restaurants, my colleagues
and I respect them. As well as I respect their
meals! Let’s start! You have passed Vinišće
and both islands of Drvenik. On the east
coast of Veli Drvenik there are Krknjaši.
KRKNJAŠI
Nobody knows how many years has been already opened the tavern you fi nd there, its originally name was The Fisherman, but everyone call it The Communist. This is a real spectacle, far away from the communists – you’ll meet there my friends Dragica and Ivica Špika. He is, in my opinion, the greatest fi sherman on the Adriatic coast. Through his hands every year pass not less than fi fteen tons of prime fi sh. You can be sure that you have in plate the fi sh caught the same day.
TROGIR
At one point you must get bored of sailing. So sail in Trogir and go to tavern Barba out of town to the west side. In my opinion this is
the best restaurant along the Adriatic coast for you’ll eat there a fi rst class selection of shells, hundred species of shells... all freshly acquired. And in the back yard they coltivate peppers, tomatoes, lettuce of all kinds. Mir-jana and Drago Karaman are waiting for you.
ŠOLTA
Tomorrow morning at sea again! It’s time to visit the island of Šolta. Nečujam and the res-taurant Punta. On the terrace with Beka and Neno Baumgartner once we roasted piglet on a spit, but completely separated from the bones that it could be cut into slices. In it we boarded a couple of pork fi llets. Italians call it „porchetta“. You must spice it with herbs and lots of pepper. It was delicious.
BRAČ
After all this, for a few days you might man-age to go on the island of Brač. It is an island on the other side of Split Doors. When you recover of overeating on Šolta, maybe you can short the stock swimming. In the capital of the neighboring island of Brač, in Supetar, the best thing to do is to stop at Paluta’s on
the waterfront. If you want, Paluta himself
will take you on his farm west of Supetar,
where you will taste the vitalac, lamb pre-
pared in a unique way.
PAKLENI ISLANDS
Whence you came, you will always stop in
Hvar. Most often, once you take the fuel in
Milna on Brač, you turn towards the nearest
town of the island of Hvar or its bays. If you
still get to the south side of Hvar, where eve-
rything happens, then you should not miss –
on the north side of Pakleni Islands – the tav-
ern of Tonči Matijević. His coop for lobsters
is always full and he will off er you fi sh stew,
artichokes and zucchini strudel, the specialty
of his Austrian wife.
HVAR
If you are lucky, you will fi nd a berth in the
town of Hvar. Then go right to Gariful where
you can choose between tuna of 300 pounds
and sars, dentexes, squids. There I’ve eaten
the best meat in my life, that is from Hvar to
the hills on Vidikovac (Mount Lookout). The
owner of the tavern is Jozo Šuša and he will
give you to taste a specially selected meats
and roasted. So fi rst, goat must be barren
and younger than two years, seasoned with
rosemary and ling...
DALMATIA ON THE PLATE
by Goran Albini KamanjoWhere to eatWhere
Stončica on Vis
22
VIS
On the island of Vis you will be confused by
the choice: Vis or Komiža, meat or fi sh, lamb
or goat. And if you were tired of crowd and
crush, you could go to the islets Budikovci,
where there is the Green Cave. The owner of
the tavern is Andro Slavić, my friend. He is
the craziest and the best chief in the world.
You could order any dish, whatever crosses
your mind. You will eat something good and
imaginative too.
POET
Stop in a cove of your dreams called Mala
Travna. There are the Karuza. It may be the
legendary fi sherman Kalambera. And it can
be the famous poet, winemaker and chef, all
in one – Senko Karuza. What he needs are
two limpets and he will make the fi rework of
that and when you taste his wines, then you
become a prisoner of his basement.
LANTERNA
In Vis, on the side called Kut, you must visit
Luca in the tavern Val. You will enjoy in a
fresh taste of every dish. And in the hills
above Vis stop at Roki’s. You will not regret
it. Oh, I almost forgot. Many years ago, Ićo
Bulić, the lanternist at Stončica, at the prom-
ontory of the island, that lanternist who or-
ganizes exhibitions of art from the alluvions
from the sea – he was my waiter at the tav-
ern Pharos in Split, near tennis courts where
Goran Ivanišević started to play...
And fi nally, if you ask me what is the best to
eat in the summer, I would recommend you
pasta-fagioli (bean paste).
Where to eat to eatGORAN ALBINI KAMANJO, CULINARY EXPERT WHO HAS COOKED FOR PRESIDENTS AND PRIME MINISTERS OF
CROATIA
Hvar
Vis
A fi sherman in Makarska
Makarska and Biokovo Mountain in the background
23
Sensations of Central DalmatiaSensations of Central DalmatiaFor this we have no word
KRUŠEVA, HVAR
VIS
MA
RIN
A S
V.N
ED
ILJA
, HV
AR
HVAR
SUMARTIN
BOL
THE FALKUSA, TRADITIONAL FISHING SAILBOAT
ROCK & FISHING NEAR PALAGRUŽA, KALAMBERA & DUJEROCK & FISHING NEAR PALAGRUŽA, KALAMBERA & DUJE
VIS