Port News number 1

BREVIARY FOR EVERYONE ON THE SEA

51 PORTS OF CENTRAL DALMATIA

MAY - JUNE 2012. NO. 1

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Where to eatWhere to eat

Summer before May

MATINEE! WELCOME!

Combining the feast of Easter to the First of May, many who are “addicted” to the beauty of Split-Dalmatia County, its sea, its islands and towns on the coast, rushed to their

destinations. They did not want to miss the end of April announced almost 30 degrees, completely clear with a slight wind, a real breath of summer in the midst of spring

We are not accidentally on the

island. Brač is the fi rst island to

reach - when you leave  from Split, but

also from elsewhere. On Brač there

is the  highest peak, of all our islands

in the Adriatic Sea (778 meters), it is

the largest in Dalmatia (395 square

kilometers), and it is best  connected

with the mainland. With Split there is

real bridge ferry connection. Brač is one

of the few islands that doesn’t have the

homonymous capital.

        The main characteristic of Brač are

numerous coves framed by thick pine

forest. On the island there  is no lack of

sun or shade. Even in ancient times Brač

was popular for holidays, as evidenced

by the remains of old Roman villas,

such as  on a sandy bay near Lovrečina

Postira. Zlatni rat with its 200 meter long

sandy tongue speaks all languages even

today. Bol is number one, it’s unique and

has been for years the winner of all sorts

of tourist awards.

      Anyway Brač is famous for its stone.

All its towns are built in white stone.

Its heart, under the skin, is all of white

marble. Brač stone has sailed the world.

Of that stone it was built Diocletian

Palace in Split, the White House in

Washington, the Parliament and New

Palace in Vienna, the Parliament in

Budapest, the Regent Palace in Trieste...

        Confortably to this, Brač is also

the island of artists. It’s enough to

mention  Ivan Rendić and his belfry in

Ložišća, not to go any further, or the

whole artistic families like the Jakšić...

There is no port on Brač where you

will  not see and enjoy  some stone

sculpture that capture you by its beauty.

       Let’s sail around Brač! But if you feel

by Elizabeta Sonjara Garber

Summer, Brač,

Photo: Sumartin on the island of Brač

2

3

so good on your pier and you want to

stay there longer, you can always make

a trip to the island inland (in Škrip, the

desert  Blaca, to Vidova gora) or to  the

small towns on the other side of the

island. You can even take a bus, that

you come across constantly, wandering

around everywhere, connecting all

villages, as the Flying Dutchman. Or

some of the fi rst sailors  caught in the

lens of our fi rst photoreport.

       Here is the real matinee. Welcome!

On the island. Just before the summer,

before May! Combining the feast of

Easter to the First of May, many who

are “addicted” to the beauty of Split-

Dalmatia County, its sea, its islands and

towns on the coast, rushed to their

destinations. They did not want to miss

the end of April announced almost 30

degrees, completely clear with a slight

wind, a real breath of summer in the

midst of spring. Since we talk about the

island  that has a lot of the most, the

nearest, the largest, the highest  then it is

quite expected that the Brač as a super-

island drew the Port News attention.

ABSOLUTELY NOTTO MISS

Sojourning on the island of

Brač, you, in no way, should

miss to taste Vitalac, a

typical Brač dish of lamb

off al, prepared with special

aromatic herbs, that you

can order in any tavern,

for example at the tavern

Tomić in Gornji Humac,

or at Kopačina in Donji

Humac, but we especially

recommend the tavern

on Vidova gora. That dish

is on the Croatian list of

protected cultural goods.

Brač cheese from breeds

of sheep named pramenka

will soon be found too

on the list of protected

Croatian products. Center

dairy sheep on the island is

in Nerežišće, but you’ll fi nd

it anywhere on the island,

in Nerežišće you should’t

miss it.

Wine and olive oil for

centuries are trademarks

of Brač. They are on sale

everywhere, but one of the

most known winery is Wine

Senjković in Nerežišća,

Wine Baković in Murvica

and the winery Jako vino

(Strong Wine) in Bol. There

are many types of wines

among which the most

famous is Bolski Plavac.

Eco-ethno village Dol

becomes a real culinary

destination. It is located

just two kilometers above

Postira. In the tavern Toni,

for example, after all the

specialties, you can enjoy

hrapaćuša, Brač cake of

almonds and walnuts.

Enjoy!

Recommendation:before May

Supetar is a Brač New York. The center of everything. His Manhat-tan is Riva, the waterfront. Already

in late April and early May it was full of fragrences of famous Brač lamb, fi sh and Slavonian kulen... Celebration of the cuisine seasonal feast, lasted for days. Yummy!

“Parent” is the oldest preserved bracera on the Adriatic coast (built in 1907) and protected Croatian cultural heritage. Now it is property of the town of Supetar and it will serve – instead of transport-ing the stone as in the old times – as a pride and joy. When it is fully renovated.

SPLITSKASplitska is a pure extract of beauty: not even the Omiš pirates could resist not to destroy it many years ago. Ah, if they could see it today!

BOBOVIŠĆAThe poet Vladimir Nazor still protects his Bobovišća. His monument is by the sea.

There is no crowd neither in the high season. You’ll easily fi nd the marina-berth.

SUPETAR, MANHATTAN, “PARENT”

LOŽIŠĆARight above Bobovišća, just a short walk, there is Ložišća, with its houses, the beautiful church tower of the fa-mous artist Rendić and lots of beautiful memories.

MILNAYou are out of potatoes or beer, there is no more oil or gasoline for the boat, or you come to enjoy a bit of partying, restaurants and music? Milna is waiting for you.

POSTIRA, YOU CAN SEE OMIŠThe stone statue takes care of its Postira.From Postira you can see Omiš.

There are lot of new places for sailors in the port of Postira. And still they will scramble for the rope.

PUČIŠĆAProud Pučišća, the center of culture and the pleasures of summer, all in a pack-age.

BOL, THE PAIN OF BEAUTYFor the fi rst of May, column of Sloveni-ans arriving by ferry to Supetar straight to Bol. Armed with surfboards, they start immediately to sail on the breeze. Yachts arrive by sea, cars descend from the top of the hill to the harbor. Bol does not need the season. Even in the middle of the winter, Bol bursts with beauty of the colours and sound of the sea.

Scenes from Life in BračScenes

Postira’s roofs

Splitska

Su tivan

Scenes from Life in Bračs from Life in Brač

MASLINOVAMaslinova (Olive Bay) is a bay on the southern coast of Brač, near Milna town, on the other side of the hills. It can be visited only for breath of freshness from hatcheries and a look on the ships ga-rage in the cave.

MIRCAThere is nothing, but still it has all. A bit of a small pier, stone and gravel. This is Mirca.

POVLJAPovlja prepared for the summer, too. Awnings are widespread, front terraces removed, smells fi sh stew.

SUMARTINFor Sumartin it was always requested a place more. Now the requests could be accepted. There is a new bigger pier. Trawlers have already unloaded the fi sh and the sailors are resting around the ta-ble. In the distance, on the horizon, ap-pear fi rst sails.

SUTIVANSo small but lacks nothing. Only a little above the sea there is a Nature park, an oasis for animals, ideal for a visit with your children.

LOVREČINALovrečina is dragged sandy cove where people came to swim some thousand years ago. It is also a rich archaeological site with remains of early Christian ba-silicas, baptismal font, sarcophagus and ancient Roman villas.

Fishing boat sails from Sutivan on Brač

6

The opening of the marina in Masli-

nica on the western part of the is-

land of Šolta is certainly an unusu-

al event in Central Dalmatia. It is the fi rst

port of nautical tourism on the island.

The pier is 90 meters long and covered

with white Brač stone.

The owner Hartmut Lademacher,

a German businessman, in 2007 opened

a renovated old castle Martinis-Marchi,

built in 1706.

Guests can use the seven apartments

of 30 – 208 square meters. Each apart-

ment is specialy designed and furnished

to preserve the original style of the cas-

tle.

The cost investment in the marina was

approximately four million euros. The

Nautical port is built on the site of the

former moorings.

Goran Babin, manager of the marina

and the castle, indicates that the port has

55 berths with all the supporting equip-

ment, reception and catering facilities.

All the projects have the signature of

the Split architect Davor Hauptmann,

including the waterfront, whilst the pier

is the work of engineer Josip Prcela. The

biggest help in the overall project devel-

opment and logistical works came from

the master Leo Kuret.

A SUMMER HIT THE FIRST NAUTICAL PORT ON THE ISLAND: MASLINICA 2012

THE MARINA NEARBY A

BRAČ 2012. YOUR WELCOME!

Publisher:Port Authority of Split-Dalmatia County

For the publisher:Port Authority director Domagoj Maroević

Editor in chief:Domagoj MaroevićEditor:Mario Garber

Editorial concept and design:Garber media d.o.o.

Editorial staff:Domagoj Maroević, Ante Sanader, Mario Garber, Elizabeta Sonjara Garber, Segor Garber (logo design), Ana Gaspar, Leo Kuret, Jakša Fiamengo, Vinko Tranfić, Filip Zlatan Zoričić, Tomislav Akrap

Photos:Garber media d.o.o.

Translation into English:Ana Gaspar

Lector:Elizabeta Sonjara Garber

Prepress:Nenad Nazlić

Printed in:Split, Slobodna Dalmacija Print d.o.o.

COVER PHOTOS:Port News: Pučišća on BračLučki vjesnik: Milna on Bra

ISSN 1848-4689

Maslinica on the island of Šolta

Sail with our Compass!

7

The Port Authority of the Split-Dal-

matia County launched the maga-

zine Port News  with the intention to

welcome  guests: travelers from the sea,

sailors, boaters, fi shermen and ordinary

adventurers and   curious tourists. The

aim is to facilitate their fi rst encounter

with our ports and their staying in them.

       The project was conceived as a sea-

sonal signpost to be published in four

or more occasions from May through

to October. It will be a sort of guide and

a feedback of life out  at sea and in our

towns and will open the possibility to

exchange experiences, updated ad-

vices to our guests and as in any other

book of complaints, a kind of brevi-

ary. On our website we will also start

an electronic edition of the magazine.

     The Port News  can be obtained by

anyone who enters our ports when

down loading the fee for mooring

therefore the magazine has no com-

mercial pretensions but it can become

a property of the population in the

fi fty-one (51) ports of our county if the

value of it is recognized. Our aim is to

open up to the lives and the   interests

of the local people living   in the ports,

the maritime travelers, the tourists and

general lovers of the sea in every way.

         The port has a signifi cant place in

the life of our county, not just during the

tourist season. Furthermore  the tourist

season has all possibilities   to become

longer and larger. It could be said refer-CASTLE

IN THE BEGINNING IT WAS THE PORT

ring to our Country, the ports are one

of the most direct sources of life. The

people of any small town, from time

immemorial, have  fl ocked to the water-

front when the ship arrives in the  port.

This is the traditional ceremony.

       The belonging of it’s Islands to the

mainland  of Split is based on the phe-

nomenon of its ports, just like as fi ngers

are tied like roots to the palms of our

hands. Everything boils down to the

harbor life, there is nothing without that

identity! Without the port, no one can

sail in or sail out and the open sea with-

out a port has no beginning and no end.

The story of our ports is a monologue

on  how we live and how you can share

this life with us on your fi rst visit and

even better, if  this will help in prompt-

ing you the right reasons to return, our

magazine Port News will serve directly

as a GPS or compass.

by Domagoj Maroević,

Port Authority director

I am glad – from this site – to welcome all the Dal-

matians and their guests in our region, we should

dare to say, not wanting to be pretentious, „tho

most beautiful in the world“, that is the „seventh

among all the southern Europeans“. That is the

experts from FDI Magazine opinion. They ranked

the regions, seeking the most promising. With Spa-

nish Catalonia and Madrid in the fi rst place – our

small towns of Split-Dalmatia county have not-

hing to be ashamed of. And with Port News in your

pocket and a pier in your GPS – you can begin your

tour! I assure you, you’ll remember this experience

of a lifetime!

ANTE

SANADER,

COUNTY

PREFECT

With Madrid and Catalonia

What do you thing about the notion ‘pure nature’ ?  Does it awaken in you your youth, in

spite of your actual age? Because, feel-ing young and still ‘intact’, like undis-covered nature, nowadays is something unreal  just as untouched nature. And therefore over and over again, with the adrenaline in the stern, sailing is a must.  Detecting the undetected, strip-ping to the naked truth, fever before travel, butterfl ies in your stomach, while you come closer and closer to the boat to uncord and to sail to the infi nite, to-wards the very beginning. Resist  the end as long as possible. And that’s why – to sail is a must. Many things will cross your mind...  But when the sun sailed to the west, at the sunset swollen from the sun and salt, your mission and your motto ‘to sail is a must’  will surrender to the smooth sea and will admit, fi nally: you must sail

in. Let us be honest: you also have to

have dinner!

  Every town on the coast and on is-

lands of Central Dalmatia, at the sun-

set, deserves the fi ve stars title for ‘un-

touched nature’. Because one can always

enjoy the wild, deserted cove by day

and also during the night, but it’s abso-

lute pity not to sail to the town, and just

remain afar to look at fl ickering lights

who evoke provoking and hidden se-

crets. Perhaps you could resist just one

evening alone.

But the next one – you’ve got to

sail in. In Drvenik, Nečujam or Masli-

nica both on the island of Šolta, Stari

Grad, Hvar, Jelsa, Vrboska on the island

of Hvar. Bol, Milna, Bobovišće, Sutivan,

Pučišća on the island of Brač, Vis, Komiža

on the island of Vis. Entire waterfalls of

words have been spent on that eternal

theme, whether town or deserted cove.

But the compromise is still the most ac-

ceptable, because only in that way noth-

ing is missed. It’s a shame not to take a

chance. So: during  day light, enjoy the

deserted  cove, and at sunset, sink into

the romantic atmosphere of some small

town that Dalmatia is well known for.

There is nothing more true that there is nothing more sublime as the peace and quiet of the deserted cove and even if you so addicted to such a place, come evening you can still sail to some small quiet Dalmatian town,  take a walk and dinner somewhere, and go back to sleep into nearby cove. It is also true that when the sun sets it’s nice to have dinner on board in the untouched nature, but then?   In the darkness surrounding you, you’ve got nothing to do. Although in this time and age that we are techni-cally advanced in communication  with mobile phones, emails, etc... it is also good to remember that we have valid and rapid means of transportation with boat tenders or infl atable. But what can beat stepping into your own boat after spending the evening in some nice lo-cal tavern and tasting good Dalmatian

food.

SAILING IN AS A MUST

Touch my Dalmatia!Touch my Every town along the coast and on the islands of Central Dalmatia is just idyllic rat- Every town along the coast and on the islands of Central Dalmatia is just idyllic rat-ing five stars of ‘untouched nature’. For one can always enjoy the wild and deserted ing five stars of ‘untouched nature’. For one can always enjoy the wild and desertedcoves. It’s a true pity not to sail by these towns during the day as much as during the coves. It’s a true pity not to sail by these towns during the day as much as during the

night hours, remaining afar to observe the flights evoking hidden secretsnight hours, remaining afar to observe the flights evoking hidden secrets

Elizabeta &Mario Garber

Pokomina, the cove on the north coast of Hvar

8

99

Almost everything that a wild bay

can off er you, can be off ered by the lo-

cal town. For when taverns are closed,

you can always remain on board in com-

pany, singing , or look for some privacy

with your husband, wife, boyfriend – re-

tiring under the bow. In the wild bay one

can feel a little bit uncertain, and still

someone feels it as a challenge. How-

ever, there is no more so deserted coves

where one can feel that solitude chal-

lenge. It is easier to fi nd the comfort of

solitude in the crowd of the town than

in the wild cove with several other boats

from which you can hear every breath or

sip of wine.

By day ‘the cove’, by night ‘the town’!

By day you’ve got to remember where

you will return to sleep, if the town boils

at the midnight and you want to get

back into intimacy with subtle crickets.

If you, at the moment of awaking, have

listened the weather broadcast, you’ll

be able to easily assess the risk of these

more than romantic naval night maneu-

vers. It is a must... to sail in and anchor,

by day and by night.

It is not easy to resist not to anchor.

Well, it’s hard to resist, when the sum-

mer is almost naked, when it’s stripped

and dressed, it’s diffi cult to choose the

town or the wild cove where to anchor.

To anchor or not to anchor, that is the

question. However, it’s the most beauti-

ful to complete the day in some of our

beautiful little towns, with the full im-

mersion into the Dalmatian soul.

For sure She will insist to sail into the

town as soon as, about noon, the wind

rises  from the west and  goes towards

the bottom of most hidden bays only to

die on its pebble beaches. It’s better to

cord safely somewhere to the coast, She

would say. And He would like to fi sh still,

or to turn the boat the upwind, although

the mistral could be strong  for a  pas-

sionate sailor as well as for the hopeful

fi sherman.

Remember, though, that it’s most

beautiful to fi sh early in the morning or

in the moments when the day and the

night are touching each other. The only

more beautiful thing is to, at fi ve in the

Touch my Dalmatia!Dalmatia! Every town along the coast and on the islands of Central Dalmatia is just idyllic rat--ing five stars of ‘untouched nature’. For one can always enjoy the wild and deserted coves. It’s a true pity not to sail by these towns during the day as much as during the

night hours, remaining afar to observe the flights evoking hidden secrets

morning, go to buy fresh loaves, make

a coff ee and in all tranquillity sail alone

to the fi rst destination, while She is still

sleeping under the bow. In the morning

there is nice smooth sea, the intact sea

surface, that almost one should not

sail, not to disturb the harmonius royal

rule of the nature that is still reluctant to

awake, probably tired also of us.

You’ve got to sail in, you’ve got to

taste the nice recipes, typical dishes, to

watch nice old houses behind the shut-

ters, a deep shade of taverns, shops from

which spring out the old customs, sou-

venirs, pictures... And one should have

a little fun, feel the atmosphere,  shoot

some nice photos. Listen to the songs

softly coming from under the vaults,

from the street corners, from the gates

of the houses, taste and feel the humors,

smells and local customs.

And for all that you’ve got to sail in.

You should cord to the waterfront with

name, to the stone with its own pass-

port, certifi cate and matricula. Then you

could say that you are, here in the heart

of Dalmatia on the link, at the address of

Central Dalmatia, in the one of 51 ports

of Split-Dalmatia County&Authority.

Stari Grad on the island of Hvar

Kaštel Gomilica

SARDINA, GLOBAL BRAND

Sardine Factory, founded in Postira in 1906, has gained an international brand

by producing canned fi sh, and is engaged in aquaculture, breeding tuna and

white fi sh, and fi shing. Preserving the tradition of superior quality, excep-

tional possession of the original raw material, and the fostering of specifi c original

recipe in the way of processing, especially thanks to the experienced and skilled

craftsmen, sardine factory distributes its products throughout the world as a highly

recognized and sought for its brand.

           Successful businessman Niko Bezmalinović and more recently his son Mislav

Bezmalinović monitor technological advances and adapt to new trends and will

move the factory into industrial zone of Postira, and in the site of the old factory

will be built fi ve-star hotel, the forth in Postira that will be the most modern one.

There are investments of about 20 million of EUR for a new factory that will pro-

duce 32 million cans of fi sh.

32 MILLION ANNUAL CANNED

Supetar

10

It should be obvious to any overseas

sailor while trying to errant waters

of Split-Dalmatia County – that Su-

petar is the second leading port im-

mediately after the Split. Supetar is the

capital of the island, being it’s economi-

cal, cultural and tourist center where

approximately one fi fth of the

total population of 5000 in-

habitants live on the Island.

  Supetar, in fact, during the sum-

mer season, is the Town of Split in mini-

ature form. Both share the same des-

tiny of being transit centers, as Jadro-

linija in its statistical data registered

that through Supetar in the year 2010

transited one million and   six hundred

thousand passengers (1,6 million) and

about half a million vehicles (500,000)

and the prevision is that the data for

2012 will show a great growing trend.

According to a specialized journal

in the fi eld of foreign direct investments

(FDI Magazine, The Financial Times

Group), Split-Dalmatia County is at the

seventh ranking  place of   the ‘’Top 10’’

of promising Souther European regions

in the competition „European city and

the region of the future’’ for 2012/2013.

These are indeed serious consid-

erations. Try to, while sailing among

these perspective investments of the

seventh southern European regions,

immagine a future in which Supetar

will function as a suburb of Split, so

that it won’t be necessary to cross the

Brač  channel (Brač channel, between

the island of Brač and mainland Split).

  Nowadays from Split you can

reach Supetar in less than an hour, us-

ing the regular local ferry. For there are

no more than 9,5 nautical miles. Even

the slowest little boats in the middle of

winter, every day cross the channel in

an hour, at most in two hours. At 6:15

and 6:30 in the morning the fi rst fer-

ries leave from Split and from Supetar

and pass one by another in the middle

of the channel while fi shing amateurs,

professionals and sportsmen are fi sh-

ing in the calm sea, mackerels, Span-

ish mackerel, pompano, bonito and

other fi sh. By midnight the ferries have

crossed the channel nine times, and  the

weekend ferry, in the evening, when

the schoolchildren return from Split

to their homes to the island, is trans-

formed into one big spectacular night

disco of maritime transit. The last  ferry

departs from Split to Supetar   exactly

one minute before midnight (23:59)

just like for a Happy New Year ending!!!

  You can already guess the itinerar-

ies of the sailors. From the port of the

little town of Milna, to the west coast of

Brač, the doorsteps of Split have already

been considered for years as the fi rst

destination and also as the fi rst port of

call where they can stay overnight, have

fun and in the morning take enough fuel

to venture in open sea. It is natural that

the sheltered Supetar off ers them the

chance of spending the last night before

returning to their homes, to enjoy the

environment of a bigger town and all

this in just an hour distance from Split.

  The inhabitants of Supetar are trying to

become in this respect the ideal stop

over. Supetar is climbing in a distinctive

upward trend in turnover frequency with

Split, in it’s transitional function. Just as

in Split, so does Supetar follow in almost

all of what is happening on the island.

Supetar’s traffi c is fast growing, so much

so, that there are plans in the relocation

of the ferry port over to the west in or-

der to unburden the traffi c jams that

form in the middle of the peak season.

 Relocation of the port would open

up space for a bigger port for larger

vessels following the trend of sailing.

In any case, every skipper, adventurer

and lover of the sea should come to

know that there is something very simi-

lar to an urban Split on the island too,

not only on continent. It is Supetar, this

charming little town with all it’s sur-

roundings that off er you everything that

is close to urban living, that you some-

times, even at the sea miss but beware!

Whilst you are on the ferry that is

docking in or whilst you are waiting in

the harbor, change quickly and put on

your ‘’make shift“ bathing costume, be-

cause in the immediate vicinity of the

ferry, there is the most transparent of

sea waters and a most beautiful and

fully occupied beach, within a few steps

from the pier. What? Just plunge into the

A Disco in the Channel

Relocation of the Port

NEWS REPORT: SUPETAR

Split on the Island In front of Split, the capital of Central Dalmatia, with a distance of barely 9,5 nautical miles across the Brač Channel, you can reach Supetar, the capital town on the island of Brač with just barely 5000 inhabitants. It goes without saying that the citizens of Split transit there with the most frequency. According to the travel data on hand from the shipping company Jadrolinija, the port of Supetar has over a million and half of people and half a million vehicles passing through

by Andrija Križančić

11

Postira is a small town on the northern coast of Brač, not far away from Supetar. As soon as

you get off the ferry you can listen to the silence and enjoy the pleasures of the sea, sun and beaches. The place was recently developed by enhanc-ing the sports tourism season because there is a registered football club who regularly competes there and thanks to its’ new Sports facilities Postira has become the place where the fa-mous Split football   team Hajduk, as well as others, come to do their physi-

cal training and sports preparations.

POSTIRA

A Port with no Wind

Not only, but also the Croatian national football team goes there for training.      Postira is planning to continue developing in terms of tourism in a Sports’ Center so they are constructing a Sport’s Hall, artifi cial grass courts, ten-nis courts and bowling alleys. They have also renewed and enlarged the port by building a 45 meters longer pier, so now there is a closed harbor protect-ed from most winds. There is also the availability for fi shing boats’ moorings.     You can also fi nd  three  4 star Hotels. Pastura, Lipa and Vrilo provide successful touristy features and the Postira mayor

Ivan Mihačić, a successful football man-ager in the smaller Dalmatian towns, nicely evokes the image of Postira as:    – We are a place of barely two thou-sand inhabitants, and there are 120,000 inhabitants on all our Croatian islands which are approximately 1240, perhaps even more. Malta, an island in the midst of the Mediterranean which is smaller than Brač, barely two thirds of our island has a population of 404,000 inhabitants, because the island is something for which you need to have more concern and extra care in order to have people living there. 

by Mario Garber

View of Postira

The Croatian highway from Zagreb, via Zadar and Split to Dubrovnik, passes in one its part, it could be said, near Sumartin on

the southeastern promontory of the island of Brač. Unbelievable! But it’s truth, you can reach Brač from Zagreb in very short

time. The problem are a few “little things”, that is – to complete the highway to Makarska, to improve the tunnel connection

with Makarska, and to complete the work provided for the pier in Makarska.

       The port of Sumartin, which is in fact the port of town of Selca, situated on top of the hill above the harbor, so you can across

the distance on foot, is in continue reconstructing. The ferry dock is renewed, as well as one for fi shing boats, for there is the most

important fi shing fl eet for small pelagic in the Croatian Adriatic.

        It is planned to transfer fi shing boats in the bay of Radonja, in which proximity it will be constructed a marina with 150 berths.

There is a rich tradition of wooden boat repair yard. Then gas station. The plan is to consolidate everything. Because when the

columns of tourists start there way from Zagreb, on highway to Makarska and then with ferries to Sumartin, it will be a turning

point in the history of the island.

From Tunnel to BračFrom Tunnel to Brač

SUMARTIN

The port of Sumartin

venik, Makarska Riviera and, of course,

Kaštel Sućurac which (as Sućuraj) bears

his name. If you didn’t know, St George

is the patron of scouts. Is there any scout

who hasn’t visited Sveti Jure, the highest

peak of Biokovo (1762 m), after Dinara

and Kamešnica the third highest moun-

tain in Croatia? Anyone who has not, let

him go immediately!

St George killed the dragon, he tied

it neck wit his belt and entered the city

with it as with a dog. So says the legend.

And history that the Emperor Diocletian

decapitated him on the 23rd of April in

290. Bad Diocletian, whose best thing

done in his life was to build the Palace

on the most beautiful part of the world

– just in the middle of Split! So at least

affi rms the people from Split. 

VIS, St. GEORGE BAY 

St. George Bay – the port od Vis –

is one of the largest and most beautiful

bays on the Adriatic. Deeply dragged

and protected by the hill at the bottom,

and towards the open sea by the islet

Host (with the lighthouse), this bay is

the beauty that branches into a series of

smaller coves to the peninsula Prirovo

and the town of Vis. And this town entic-

es with joy and mellowness, and, for sail-

ors that is more important, with marina-

berths, moorings and buoys. City day

was an occasion to open a high season.

SUĆURAJ, FASTER TO ZAGREB Even after Day of majority and the local celebrations, the ferry, as a bridge, connects Sućuraj with the mainland. For the people from Sućuraj it is practically faster to reach Zagreb then the town of Hvar on the same island. Probably be-cause the authorities consider that people arrive to island by boats, so the roads be-come less important. It is common knowledge that at the beginning of the last century phylloxera exterminated the vineyards at the eastern side of Hvar, so many families emigrated over the ocean. That’s why we assure you: the phylloxera happened a long time ago and here there is a good wine in abun-dance. And also the fi sh to be accompa-nied with a good wine.

PORT NEWS CALENDAR

All Saints in towns and cities of Split-Dalmatia County are generally celebrated as the Day of the majority, the patron saint, so this is an exceptional opportunity for the local people to express themselves in organizing festivities, festivals and other celebrations

WHEN THE SAINTS GO MARCHING INWHEN THE SAI

KAŠTELA, MARCH 4thGRANT OF PRINCE TRPIMIR

The people from Kaštela celebrated

their Day of the majority on the fourth

of March. In all seven towns of Kaštela

it was joyous and celebratory. And why

the 4th of March?

Because at that date Prince Trpimir in

the year 852 – quite a long time ago –

in Bijaći signed a memorandum with

which he donated  the church of St.

Juraj in Putalj to Archdiocese of Split.

His grant entered into history as the fi rst

written mention of the Croats. ‘’Duke

of Croats by the grace of God’’ or ‘’dux

Croatorum iuvatus munere Divino’’. The

document is preserved in the church of

St. Juraj in Sućurac.

FAVORITE SAINT GEORGE, APRIL, 23rd

Vis, Drvenik and Sućuraj on the island

of Hvar, on the 23rd of April had local

gatherings for the day of its patron Saint

George (sveti Juraj). There were celebra-

tions in a wider area is one of the most

popular patrons of Dalmatia. Under his

general patronage there are the whole

island of Brač, islands Veli and Mali Dr-

Kaštel Lukšić

Waterfront in Vis in the summer

Baška Voda

DRVENIK, IN THE SIGN OF FERRY 

Drvenik and Makarska Riviera celebrat-

ed their patron day. One can hardly

wait the opportunity for celebration,

especially in a small town in which dur-

ing the winter nothing happens. With a

melody that occasionally arrives from

the music school in the middle of the

beach, the biggest event in the town is

the ferry sailing out and in from Sućuraj

on the island of Hvar, where there was

celebration on the same day so the ferry

became in some way a long table, con-

necting one side of party to the other. A

slice of the sea, fi lled with seagulls. Pure

poetry.

WHEN THE SAINTS GO MARCHING INNTS GO MARCHING IN

The lighthouse in Sućuraj on the island of Hvar

Drvenik, a ferry to Sućuraj

15

HVAR, MAY 10thSAINT PROSPER

Inevitable Hvar. Superlative in many

ways, starting with the oldest public

theater in Europe to the highest number

of sunshine hours, an average of 2726

a year (probably you will not come just

those rare cloudy days!). Hvar has two

patron saints: St. Stephen, which rises

into the sky from the largest cathedral

square of all our small towns on the

coast, and the other – St. Prosper.

Hvar is happy to incense to his patron.

Let him take care of us! Let us live with

our sea and sun! Let us have our guests!

Make a quick trip to Hvar, quickly, before

the boats occupy the entire port! You’ve

better take your place immediately.

BAŠKA VODA, MAY 30thFEAST OF SUMMER

Municipal feast of Baška Voda, Day

of the majority, at the end of May, an-

nounces end of winter dormancy and

summer overture into joy. Well, in Baška

Voda there is extremely jovial atmos-

phere.

As in the whole littoral. Pebbles to the

infi nity. White ones.Then green pines

and blue sea. And the sea murmurs as it

retracts and pulls. Drink the sea in Baška

Voda! It is clean, nothing will happen to

you.

OMIŠ, MAY 16th SAINT JOHN OF NEPOMUK The day of the majority, 16 May, is also the patron feast of Omiš St. John Nepomuk.

The townpeople, steeped in the old pirate celebrity and known as the people who

refused to sell their town to Hollywood fi lmakers (they wanted Omiš in order to have

a wild river canyon and its estuary, long sea beaches and sure cliff of Omiška Dinara,

landscape worthy of Apache), certainly lay on discretion and know how to appreci-

ate the virtue of keeping secrets. The Saint Nepomuk – for those who don’t know –

had that virtue: he took his secret to the grave.

As confessor to the queen, he didn’t want and wasn’t allowed to divulge her secret

to the king. So the king made him burn, tie to a wheel and throw from Charles Bridge

in Prague, into the Vltava River. Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!

If you intend to go to Omiš, don’t worry! The townspeople for a long time now,

don’t charge a fee for the peacefull navigation, and piracy serves them just as roman-

tic features from the past.They turned to the guitar and singing groups. There is no

song as you could listen to in Omiš!

WH

EN

TH

E S

AIN

TS G

O M

ARC

HIN

G IN

Krknjaši on the island of Veli Drvenik

Omiš

16

17

SEGET DONI, JUNE 13th St. ANTHONY OF PADUA 

The people from Trogir were smart. They have lived confortably. If they hand’t built seven castles east of the city an two on

the west, one of which is present Seget Donji, there would have been fewer settlements, towns and lovely villages on the coast.

Seget was founded in the 1564 by James Rotondo, the scribe of Trogir city treasury, who was allowed to raise the castle where to

shelter, in case of war, together with his peasants.

For their patron they chose strongly favored saint in Dalmatia – St. Anthony of Padua. So their celebration day is on the 13th

of June. Saint Anthony is a saint who everyone can take as his: he is protector of children, those seeking spouse, the preachers,

the poor, expectant mothers, travelers, fi shermen, sailors, old people, harvests, horses, lost items, mail, shipwreck, starvation...

POVLJA, JUNE 24thCHARTER, LANGUAGE

MONUMENT A long time ago, Povlja on the is-

land of Brač was a safe port for the Ro-

man galleys, so there is no doubt that

you will be accepted in its warmth for a

peaceful and relaxed sleep. Only a few

houses, but well known in the world.

Among other things, the so-called The

Charter of Povlja – that is one of the old-

est linguistic monuments in the world.

It’s Benedictine monastery St. John the

Baptist’s document, from the year 1184.

St John the Baptist is the patron of

Povlja and the 24th of June is the village

Day. On the quay there is modern sculp-

ture of St John, the work of naive artist,

carved in white marble. To welcome the

visitors, no matter whence they came

from!

SUPETAR, JUNE 29thPETER, PAUL AND VICTOR

Island capital Supetar celebrates 29th

of June, the day of St. Peter (and Paul)

traditionally garnished with folk festi-

vals. Supetar is entirely dedicated to St.

Peter, as the name suggests. Supetar has

got also another patron St. Victor, cel-

ebrated on the 2nd of May.

There are so many Peters in Supetar.

As soon as you go for a walk through the

town, you’ll come across Holy Mother

Teresa and Saint Victor, the work of

sculptor Petar Jakšić. We should advise

to visit the church with its baroque or-

gan from 1737, the work of another Pe-

ter – Petar Nakić.

DRVENIK VELI AND MALIREFUGE FOR SPLIT PEOPLE

The only drawback of the beautiful

island oasis Drvenik Veli – not to men-

tion the even more wilderness, in the

positive sense, of Mali – is in proximity

to a big city of Split. So as you managed

to tie the buoy, a free one in the low

season, and full of salt and wind happily

leap on the dock... the fi rst thing you

see is a city famous face. And you have

just escaped! Well, let it be! The island is

small, but the possibilities are immense.

There is also wilderness, if you prefer. Dr-

venik Veli celebrated its patron. Krknjaši,

too. In the shallow water there is a  big

quantity of grey and red mullets.

Hvar

by Ana Gaspar

How many times have you thought

during your lifetime – like in the stock

market, for life also is a kind of stock

exchange – that everything would be easier

if you know where from the wind is going to

blow, literally but also fi guratively. And at sea

it is the most important thing to be able to

foresee where from it’s going to blow. Abso-

lutely in any case. If you are a sailor – to sail

out. If you are a seafood gourmand – to sail

in.

So – how to learn? There is enormous

quantity of information on this subject, you

are bombarded with all the day. But it is not

enough. You almost need an interpreter in

order to be able to use all those informa-

tion. And who can better know than Zlatan

Filip Zoričić, the man who the whole his life

is looking for the wind to saddle it, the fa-

mous Croatian sailor, omniscient at sea, the

man whom the owners of big boats as well

as those smallest ones want to see in their

vicinity.

Beware of Seasonal Staff ! Zoričić is gold worth. Such a great friend

at sea, educated in the manner of the English

tradition of naval gentleman. It is a pleasure

to listen him talking:

– I do not choose the route, but the ship.

Because how you can choose, if ship has its

curves, drafts, length and width, so it can-

not go into shallow waters. I must be aware

that with my boat I can’t sail near the coast,

it needs deep waters, which means that I

cannot repair from the winds as others can.

If I wish to sleep calm and to have a pleas-

ant dinner with a glass of good wine, to en-

joy and to rest at the end of the day, after a

diffi cult regatta, then the choice of the place

where to overnight is up to the boat.

Sailing legend of the oldest Split sailing

club, for a few times he was the member of

the Croatian representation in sailing, Zlatan

Zoričić, the name is synonymous with eve-

rything that has to do with sea, fi shing, div-

ing, sailing, but after all that, he enjoys to be

anchored or to spend the night in one of the

PORT NEWS EXPERT

Health for Pleasureand not Disease

SPECIAL PORT NEWS SKIPPE

Once a German gentleman, an

expert, called me saying: „Our

clients who are on vacations

in Croatia would like to improve their

health condition, but do not want to feel

like patients“.

Of course! Imagine the whole family

goes for two weeks to Vela Luka on the

island of Korčula, everyone knows the

name – Kalos. Or closer – to Makarska

in Biokovka. But it’s better to imagine

the morning with the glass of iced drink

and feet submerged in the sea on the

beach of Palagruža. Visually or anyway

you want – you’re already healthy while

you’re reading this!

Is it well-being? Of course. It’s impor-

tant to spend holidays in the seamless

wellness treatment, as we now have no

idea how many people go to the beach

Bačvice in Split to walk barefoot in the

sand because considered a pure health.

The man with the diffi culties still wants

to know where he can enjoy on vaca-

tions with an eff ective rehabilitation

conspicuously announced as wellness.

As an owner of polyclinics in Split and

in Kaštela, I feel so familiar with what the

market off ers us. My impression is that

the large hotels such as the Lav and the

Radison nurture a wide range of well-

ness services.

The hotel Elaphuza on the island of

Brač off ers massage with the basic in-

gredient of noble olive oil! Furthermore

there is a special wellness ritual Blue

Sun, as implemented also in the hotel

Soline in Brela. Biokovka in Makarska

has already been famous for its excellent

physiotherapy services. Plaža in Omiš

has a medical and recreational massag-

es along with other services. Hotel Adri-

ana in Hvar off ers seven types of mas-

sage. There is a wide choice of wellness

treatment in the hotel Horizont in Baška

Voda, Rotondo in Seget Donji and Sveti

Križ in Arbanija on the island of Čiovo.

Polyclinic Tranfi ć off ers the massage

on the special balance-table that gently

sways during treatment, further relaxing

the patient, and improves and extends

the eff ects of massage.

Vinko Tranfić, senior physiotherapist

As Wind BlowsAs WinAN INTERVIEW WITH FILIP ZLATAN ZOFROM THE OLYMPIC CLASS SAILING B

A MODEST HEDONI

World famous athlete Blanka Vlašić on

therapy with Vinko Tranfi ć

18

inimitable old Dalmatian town.

– Of course, I am master of the bay and

not of the land, I dread the summer of our

ports and harbors and even the wild coves

as if it were widely published, it is more dan-

gerous than in a town port. Specifi cally, it is

understood that the sea in summer becomes

the property of everybody, and those who

don’t know about the sea all that should be

known, because they don’t live at  the sea

and simply do not have the opportunity to

come to know, they are not to be blamed.

But neither I want to  share the responsibil-

ity with them for all these mishaps intricate

summer adventures.

  Zoričić warns that it can always happen

a classic disaster, that after you have tied

up somewhere, anchored, landed... comes

some other  and throw  over your anchor. If

you have just took a walk through the town,

there is an unpleasant surprise waiting for

you in case you’d like to sail out. Your rope

is beneath the rope of who came after you. It

happens everywhere on tourist maps of sea-

farers, the so-called seasonal captains.

Morning Harbor Bread But it should be pity, for this reason, not

to sail into our beautiful Dalmatian ports. Be-

cause the same thing could happen in one of

the most deserted bays in the world... So, sail

in, but be careful! If trouble does occur, then

make friends with those who are together

with you in the same trouble. It’s the only

way to get out  of it, there is no use of ten-

sion and recrimination. It will not save you if

you affi rm that he is guilty and not you!

Zoričić remembers the troubles typically

of some waters:

– North side of Brač is something ex-

traordinary, there are situated  seven attrac-

tive towns, from  Sutivan at the extreme

west to Sumartin at  the southeast from

where  stretches the south coast of the is-

land. Floating there, every half an hour you

can sail in somewhere, sailing slowly for the

rest and exercise. Sutivan, Mirca, Supetar,

Split, Postira, Pučišća, Povlja... You can take a

bath, you can fi sh, or take a walk through the

town. But almost every night there is a wind,

stronger or weaker, you can never know, so

you need to prepare for that in order to avoid

any trouble. Although it’s summertime, it can

happen bad weather, even during the night,

when the afternoon mistral calms down, a

storm from the northwest or north. So once

sailed in, make sure that you are well tied.

The whole Adriatic, fortunately for sail-

ors and tourists, is covered with impeccably

detailed forecast weather reports, so you

can accurately count even  when the storm

begins. It is hard to resist the lights, sounds

and smells coming from the ports, off ering

an unusual evening of fun and relax from the

sea and the sun abundantly enjoyed during

the day.

– I personally enjoy those unforgetta-

ble mornings  in our small towns  when the

bread just removed from the oven begins to

spread its fragrance. This mix of hunger for

the fi rst morning meal and thirst for great ex-

pectations of a new day of sailing or fi shing,

depends on your choice, in that we are un-

beatable, and I still enjoy it more in the win-

ter during unexpected calm sunny days. It is

wonderful to be securely tied  in some our

19

ER

As Wind Blowsnd Blowswarm and narrow port. Where I can make the

fi rst morning  coff ee  or prepare something

for lunch or dinner. It’s little bit impractical, I

admit, and I don’t blame those who will hard-

ly wait to get on some wonderful shore full of

surprises at any corner, at any gate, that dur-

ing the night, turn to be a tavern, a shop or

coff ee-house.

The Secret of the Split Doors  Zlatan is pleased to give always some

gold worth advice to any sailor, and he knows

everything about the sea, from cooking to

any other contrivance. In his opinion  there

is a problem, for sailors, when they leave the

north coast of Brač as Makarska Riviera

in  front of it, on the mainland, began just

last summer to emplify its capacities provid-

ing also marina-berths for ships. That’s why

there is the opportunity for the next summer

season, because  the tourist accommodated

on the east of Brač and the Makarska Riviera,

will have a nice  occasion to make a short

trips to the untouched bays of Pelješac and

near by Korčula.

– The south side of Brač is a bit inaccessi-

ble, but it’s charming during day sojourn, and

then there is the original Bol and its beaches

of Zlatni rat. However, for the night, you

should look towards the western promon-

tory of the bay Brač and Split Doors entrance

where lies deeply embedded the small town

of Milna, visited by all the sailors. Split Doors

provide security and closeness of many bays

and small towns such as Bobovišće, on the

island of Brač, or Stomorska on the island of

Šolta, and on the south side of Šolta, you can

cruise like you’re somewhere really far be-

yond the cities.

There begins the area of Zoričić, an ar-

chipelago in the west of the island of Šolta,

known for its highly skilled fi shermen, fi sh-

ing among the rocks and islets.

All this takes place in beautiful surroundings

in front of Maslinica, a place that exudes old

tradition of Šolta, fi shing and maritime. On

the north side of Šolta, Nečujam draws atten-

tion to the vast stretch of several of its inter-

nal bays, and near by there is a port of Rogač,

where you can provide with fuel.

ORIČIĆ, AN EXCLUSIVE GUIDE WITH THE ENORMOUS SAILING EXPERIENCE, BOATS TO CRUISERS, A MAN WITH THE REAL PASSION FOR SPORTS FISHING, IST WHO HAS TASTED ALL THE HARVEST OF THE ADRIATIC

Zlatan Zoričić in his „boston“

Musician Remi Kazinotti, businessman

Slavko Bralić and Zlatan Zoričić

20

At the opposite side of Maslinica, located

in the west, there are the islands of Veli and

Mali Drvenik, and after them in a moment

you reach  the lighthouse and two islets

named Čelice from where you immerse in

the great bay of Trogir, which means that you

have embraced the Central Dalmatia, from

that point in the west, up to  the Makarska

Riviera on the east.

– In front of the southern coast of Brač

and Šolta, between which there are the mys-

terious Split Doors, the open sea spreads, but

in the less than an hour of the slowest sailing

here you are on the islands of Hvar and Vis,

spectacular attraction in the area of 51 ports

of Split-Dalmatia County. It was not easy to

decide where to go, to the left, to the  right?

And my Šolta abounds in the southern bays

– Livka, Stračinska, Tatinja and Šešula which

became marina, with some very interesting

taverns. But when you set sail towards the

island of Vis, south in the middle of the open

sea, it is an experience.

Vis is Waiting for you In Zlatan’s opinion Komiža is perhaps

the most beautiful town in Dalmatia. The

narrow streets and nice taverns kept our his-

tory through the centuries. And on the other

side of the island there is Vis. From Komiža

you can reach Biševo and Modra špilja, in the

distance you can see an unprecedented is-

land of Sveti Andrija, where, in fact, you can-

not remain safely, and staying on Biševo, too,

could be dangerous because of  the stones

from the shore slide off . On the eastern side

of Vis there is Budikovci, fabulous scenery of

old captain Andro Slavić. You can tie in the

shallow water and reach restaurant swim-

ming, and you can not even imagine what

you will be served directly from the sea.

Sailing from Brač and Šolta before reaching

Vis you can stop at Hvar and famous Pakleni

otoci, in front of the town of Hvar. But, Zoričić

observes:

– It is still entirely for tourists and not

for local people. I prefer to go to Hvar in the

middle of winter. This is all fi ne and good, but

there are too many people, it means that in

my age, it isn’t suited for me. I’ve already seen

all that too many times. At the opposite side

of Hvar towards Split, you fi nd similar situ-

ation in Bol and Zlatni rat. If you choose to

spend one summer in your lifetime in Cen-

tral Dalmatia, you’ve absolutely got to go

there.  From Bol, on the island of Brač, you

can see Stari Grad, Vrboska and Jelsa, on the

island of Hvar. What splendor of the cities!

Before you go to Stari Grad, you can stay for

days in large, comfortable bay of Tiha, bay for

truly carefree vacation. And every evening

you can go to Stari Grad for dinner or a walk

and if you exaggerate with the wine, the best

thing to do is to stay to sleep on board, at the

berth in town. If you want to know my opin-

ion, I think that recently  only island of Vis

is  totally concentrated on tourism.  In addi-

tion to all expected, it can be said that there

are such big little things as the taverns in the

hills, in the villages, on farms in the interior of

the island where for example there is a tav-

ern where you eat  exclusively  octopus and

nothing else. It fascinates everyone. I shall

return!

I do not choose the route, but the ship. Because how you can choose , if ship has its curves, drafts, length and width, so it cannot go into shallow waters. I must be aware that with my boat I can’t sail near the coast, it needs deep waters, which means that I cannot repair from the winds as others can. If I wish to sleep calm and to have a pleasant dinner with a glass of good wine, to enjoy and to rest at the end of the day, after a difficult regatta, then the choice of the place where to overnight is up to the boat

Filip Zlatan Zoričić ispričao za Lučki vjesnik

Dense offi ng in front of the lighthouse Stončica on Vis

Anyone can confi rm, that holidaying

at sea, in a rented sailboat, will be re-

membered as unique and unforget-

table.You’ll forever remember the skipper

and sometimes you’ll also remember the

Charte Agency owner. Tomislav Akrap has

been in this business for 20 years, the equal

amount of time he has also spent working

in a former travel agency Dalmacijaturist.

– Our nautical season is seven months

long. Vis, Komiža, Milna and our other

beautiful towns are completely still before

the boat charter season begins. Nothing

absolutely   happens before the arrival of

the fi rst seafarers. Those are tourists stimu-

lated by their passion for sailing. And we

should concentrate on them as our main

guests. Normally the tourist fi eld em-

ployers are set in motion only on week-

end,but the sailing tourists should be ac-

commodated from Sundays to Thursdays.

The charter shifts are normally scheduled on

Saturdays, one arrives and the other leaves.

The best indicator what the boat charter-

ing means for our tourism is the case of Vis,

which was an empty port up to a few years

ago, and now – just as many berths you’ve

got in the port so are just as many sailing

boats there in the port of Vis.The sailors

passed   the time spent out at sea in idle-

ness, can hardly wait to arrive in the town.

And that’s when you have to be ready to

meet them with the doors wide opened.

  In the last years there have been

big investments in the ports. This ex-

ample is the turning point and it is es-

sential to press forward to try to recog-

nize the real needs of the sailing tourist.

  – For the last two years Port Authority of

Split-Dalmatia County have pulled the right

notes, such as increasing the number of

berths which revived the ports and all that

Nauti cal Tourism: investi ng in the ports and marinas enables the development of boat chartering and also extends the sailing season

to seven months

Seafarers and sailors are our main customers, and the number of them depends on the number of marina berths, so improving and enlarging the ports and docks, according to Tomislav Akrap, the owner of a boat charter agency, is the right thing to do for the sake of nautical development and progress

 “Tomislavija”

Having been working in this fi eld for so many years, one has experienced

some unbelievable stories. Here’s what Tomislav Akrap cannot forget:

– I love the sea and I can seldom resist, when needed, not to be skipper the boat

myself. I remember a team of doctors from Australia. They came with their girlfriends, wives,

nurses, female doctors... intending to have a good time here. The atmosphere was just won-

derful. I showed them many things, I cooked for them, I’ve brought them to wild coves or

into our beautiful towns. But they weren’t able to fi nd Croatia not even on the map. So they

were asking constantly what was name of this beautiful country. At the end it turned to be a

true stunt. And when the time came for them to leave, among  sad farewells, one said to me:

“ I know what this country’s name is, we will not forget you, it’s called Tomislavija!” – Tomislav

Akrap, the owner of the agency Nivacharter, fi nished his story laughing. 

CHARTER STORY

Coast Safari

goes to benefi t of everyone. The harbor is es-

sential, as a place from where a sailor starts,

but all the other ports, even the smallest

ones, have to be ready to accept sailors –

Akrap concludes his refl ection.

Green Cave on Budikovci, the island of Vis

21

You have sailed from the west to Central

Dalmatia, in the sea of Split-Dalmatia

County. And, of course that instantly

opened your appetite. There are so many

dishes you have to taste! I assure you, there

are, in all those restaurants, my colleagues

and I respect them. As well as I respect their

meals! Let’s start! You have passed Vinišće

and both islands of Drvenik. On the east

coast of Veli Drvenik there are Krknjaši.

KRKNJAŠI

Nobody knows how many years has been already opened the tavern you fi nd there, its originally name was The Fisherman, but everyone call it The Communist. This is a real spectacle, far away from the communists – you’ll meet there my friends Dragica and Ivica Špika. He is, in my opinion, the greatest fi sherman on the Adriatic coast. Through his hands every year pass not less than fi fteen tons of prime fi sh. You can be sure that you have in plate the fi sh caught the same day.

TROGIR

At one point you must get bored of sailing. So sail in Trogir and go to tavern Barba out of town to the west side. In my opinion this is

the best restaurant along the Adriatic coast for you’ll eat there a fi rst class selection of shells, hundred species of shells... all freshly acquired. And in the back yard they coltivate peppers, tomatoes, lettuce of all kinds. Mir-jana and Drago Karaman are waiting for you.

ŠOLTA

Tomorrow morning at sea again! It’s time to visit the island of Šolta. Nečujam and the res-taurant Punta. On the terrace with Beka and Neno Baumgartner once we roasted piglet on a spit, but completely separated from the bones that it could be cut into slices. In it we boarded a couple of pork fi llets. Italians call it „porchetta“. You must spice it with herbs and lots of pepper. It was delicious.

BRAČ

After all this, for a few days you might man-age to go on the island of Brač. It is an island on the other side of Split Doors. When you recover of overeating on Šolta, maybe you can short the stock swimming. In the capital of the neighboring island of Brač, in Supetar, the best thing to do is to stop at Paluta’s on

the waterfront. If you want, Paluta himself

will take you on his farm west of Supetar,

where you will taste the vitalac, lamb pre-

pared in a unique way.

PAKLENI ISLANDS

Whence you came, you will always stop in

Hvar. Most often, once you take the fuel in

Milna on Brač, you turn towards the nearest

town of the island of Hvar or its bays. If you

still get to the south side of Hvar, where eve-

rything happens, then you should not miss –

on the north side of Pakleni Islands – the tav-

ern of Tonči Matijević. His coop for lobsters

is always full and he will off er you fi sh stew,

artichokes and zucchini strudel, the specialty

of his Austrian wife.

HVAR

If you are lucky, you will fi nd a berth in the

town of Hvar. Then go right to Gariful where

you can choose between tuna of 300 pounds

and sars, dentexes, squids. There I’ve eaten

the best meat in my life, that is from Hvar to

the hills on Vidikovac (Mount Lookout). The

owner of the tavern is Jozo Šuša and he will

give you to taste a specially selected meats

and roasted. So fi rst, goat must be barren

and younger than two years, seasoned with

rosemary and ling...

DALMATIA ON THE PLATE

by Goran Albini KamanjoWhere to eatWhere

Stončica on Vis

22

VIS

On the island of Vis you will be confused by

the choice: Vis or Komiža, meat or fi sh, lamb

or goat. And if you were tired of crowd and

crush, you could go to the islets Budikovci,

where there is the Green Cave. The owner of

the tavern is Andro Slavić, my friend. He is

the craziest and the best chief in the world.

You could order any dish, whatever crosses

your mind. You will eat something good and

imaginative too.

POET

Stop in a cove of your dreams called Mala

Travna. There are the Karuza. It may be the

legendary fi sherman Kalambera. And it can

be the famous poet, winemaker and chef, all

in one – Senko Karuza. What he needs are

two limpets and he will make the fi rework of

that and when you taste his wines, then you

become a prisoner of his basement.

LANTERNA

In Vis, on the side called Kut, you must visit

Luca in the tavern Val. You will enjoy in a

fresh taste of every dish. And in the hills

above Vis stop at Roki’s. You will not regret

it. Oh, I almost forgot. Many years ago, Ićo

Bulić, the lanternist at Stončica, at the prom-

ontory of the island, that lanternist who or-

ganizes exhibitions of art from the alluvions

from the sea – he was my waiter at the tav-

ern Pharos in Split, near tennis courts where

Goran Ivanišević started to play...

And fi nally, if you ask me what is the best to

eat in the summer, I would recommend you

pasta-fagioli (bean paste).

Where to eat to eatGORAN ALBINI KAMANJO, CULINARY EXPERT WHO HAS COOKED FOR PRESIDENTS AND PRIME MINISTERS OF

CROATIA

Hvar

Vis

A fi sherman in Makarska

Makarska and Biokovo Mountain in the background

23

Sensations of Central DalmatiaSensations of Central DalmatiaFor this we have no word

KRUŠEVA, HVAR

VIS

MA

RIN

A S

V.N

ED

ILJA

, HV

AR

HVAR

SUMARTIN

BOL

THE FALKUSA, TRADITIONAL FISHING SAILBOAT

ROCK & FISHING NEAR PALAGRUŽA, KALAMBERA & DUJEROCK & FISHING NEAR PALAGRUŽA, KALAMBERA & DUJE

VIS