V&A Making Textiles Jen Ballie

Friday 3rd February 2012

Jen Ballie PhD StudentChelsea College of Art & Design, University of the Arts, LondonEmail: [email protected]

Making TextilesCo-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

PART 1: TEXTILE ‘DESIGN THINKING’The Landscape

PART 2: TOOLS FOR WORKING TOGETHERAlternative modelsResearch Projects

PART 3: TEXTILES 2.0 Creating a Shared SpaceFuture Research Explorations

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Research Questions

e-co-Textile Design: re-thinking design & consumption

co-design, digital / social media, sustainability

1.   How can textile ‘design thinking’ address sustainability?

2. What tools / methods are required to support designer / consumer collaboration?

3. How can digital/ social media support collaboration within fashion and what new models will emerge?

My focus co-design

sustainability web 2.0

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

!

1. “Co-creativity requires that one believes that all people are creative. This is not a commonly accepted belief...”

2. “When we acknowledge that different levels of creativity exist, it becomes evident that we need to learn how to offer relevant experiences to facilitate people’s expression of creativity at all levels”

Liz Sanders | Make Tools (2011)

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Pierre Balmain at work during a model "tting

Haute Couture

direct relationships between designer and customer

creating designs tailored to the individual

Christian Dior at work during a model "tting Francois Lesage

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Over Consumption

The Fashion Industry is worth an estimated £300 billion positioning it as the 6th largest global industry.

• Each year UK fashion consumers spend an average £23 billion (2 million tonnes of clothing)

• 1/5 of these purchases are within the fast/discount sector (characterised by low cost, short lifetimes garments)

• 1.2 million tonnes of these purchases are sent to land"ll.

The Sustainable Clothing Roadmap (2009)

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Collaborative Consumption

Collaborative Consumption and the Creative Consumer

“Design not only has to sell itself in the wider world of things but needs to develop relationships with consumers.”

Rachel Botsman (2011)

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

The Digital Consumer

“Gen Y were Born between 1977-84 and currently spend $150 billion a year on consumer goods. That’s "ve times more than their parents did at their age. They also in#uence another $50 billion in purchases made by others. Their profound in#uence in the market place is directly linked to their familiarity with digital media.”

L2 Lab Generation Next Forum (2010)

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

The Designer

What is the role of the designer?

“By habit, we make user-friendly stuff – so simple that we never let users know how it works or what the true cost is. But we need to design agency and involvement. We need to design for inclusion, repair, co- innovation, and to involve many more stakeholders as agents and actors”

Dr Otto von Busch (2010)

Workshop Title: Old is the New Black / Date: July - Dec 2010 / Location: Fashion Footprints Exhibition, Devon

www.oldisthenewblack.org

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Co-design tools & methods

Tools For Conviviality / Tools & Methods

“Designers have been traditionally know as aesthetic " nishers of ideas... Rather than serving as the reproductive organ of a consumer society, the designer mindset needs to be cultivated to create new methods and tools which enable people to become empowered and willing to actively contribute to the design of their life and community.”

Ivan Illich (1970)

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Permacouture Dinner To Dye for. London. (2011)

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

“The notion of participatory design has the potential to identify a new role for the fashion consumer that aims to promote sustainability by shifting from global to local, from consuming to making and from illusion to imagination.”

Dr Kate Fletcher (2008)

Levels of Participation

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

The Democratisation of Design

“When the high cost of prototyping can be diffused very widely, the result democratises the opportunity to create.”

Eric Von Hippel (2008)

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

“If I had asked people what they wanted, they would have asked for a faster horse.”

Henry Ford

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Workshop: Exploration of App’s / Date: Jan- ongoing 2011 / Locations: London / Scotland / Sweden

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Designing in Beta

A play between hand and digital techniques

De"ning new ways of working collectively

Iteration - always re"ning and re#ecting

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

www.thesharedscarfproject.com

Twitter @sharedscarves

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Pilot - running test sessions and producing prototypes

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Social & Digital Interaction

“The web is people, diverse, interesting, creative people, sharing ideas and pictures and stories...”

Gauntlett (2011)

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

De!ning Tool kits for Co-Production

how-to demonstrations

accessible

affordable

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Think Make Style ShareDesign Thinking

BrainstormingCultural Probes

Quick & Dirty PrototypingRe-"ne concept

think about how it will be used?scenarios

Tweet TagsBlog / website

Community

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Curators, Creators & Consumers

“We are becoming a culture of curators...

Organizations that are at the forefront of online audience engagement are presenting ideas that go beyond simply offering information about programming. Instead, they are experimenting with different ways that audiences can become co-creators of content, which can then lead to a sense of ownership in the institution.”

Hanse (2011)

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

“The age of networks combined with increasing environmental pressures and consumer demands for businesses to design experiences over stuff, has created what design leaders describe as the crucial jump from design creation to design thinking.”

Botsman (2011)

Think

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Design Thinking

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Make

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Low !delity Prototyping

Making ideas tangible

Mocking up a scenario to test user engagement

Synthesising

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Playful Participant Interaction

Bringing groups together

Collecting research data through hands on experiences

Low "delity prototypes - an open invitation to play / large groups of participants

The V&A, Friday Night Late, August 2011

Make

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Think

Participant Feedback

“Very fun and simple workshop that is accessible no matter who you are. The only limits are your imagination. Brilliant Fun!”

Workshop Participant

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Make

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Shared Experiences / Interactions

rede"ning the way we think about relationships through co-ownership

rethinking materials / resources through co-production

thinking beyond the product towards additional touch points

DESIGNERS|BLOCK, London Design Festival Sep 2011

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Style

Crafting Experiences

“Post industrial innovation isn’t about the design of objects: it’s about the design of experiences.”

Thackara (2011)

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Creating a Shared Space

“Design spaces are where we take turns telling stories, making storyboards, and building prototypes... Sometimes we take a prototype and create a storyboard around it; other times, we do a sketch that gets us to building another model. All our discussions are facilitated by either prototypes or the sketches or the storyboards.”

Rheinfrank (2000)

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Share

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Co-creation Communities

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Future Fashion Models

Who are tomorrow’s consumers?

What will future ‘fast fashion’ experiences be?

“The professional designer will become an agent of design, with the audience of end users selecting what designers system they wish to employ.” Atkinson (2011)

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

A series of New Design Cultures

•Design Thinking

•Tools / Methods / Shared Spaces

•Collaborative Consumption

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Jen Ballie PhD Student, University of the Arts London. Making Textiles: Co-Everything 2012

Co-Everything: re-thinking design & production

Image Credit: Jamie Thoms 2011

Contact

www.jenballie.com / [email protected] / Twitter @jenballie

References / ResourcesASOS Marketplace www.asos.com accessed May 2011

Botsman, R, Rogers, R (2011) What's Mine Is Yours: How Collaborative Consumption is Changing the Way We Live. Publisher: Collins

Chapman, J,. Grant,. N (2007) Designers, Visonaries and other stories: A collection of Sustainable Design Essays. Publisher: Earthscan

Fletcher, K (2008) Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys. Publisher: Earthscan

Fuad-Luke, A (2009) Design Activism Beautiful Strangeness for a Sustainable World. Publisher: Earthscan

Gear, C (2002) Digital Culture. Publisher: Reaktion Books

Illich, I (1974) Tools for Conviviality. Publisher: Marion Boyars Publishers Ltd

L2 Lab Generation Next Forum (2010) l2generationnextforum.eventbrite.com/ accessed May 2011

Leadbeater, C,. Miller, P (2006) The Pro-Am Revolution: How Enthusiasts are Changing our Society and Economy. Publisher: Demos

Openwear http://www.openwear.org/ accessed 16th May 2011

Press, M and Cooper, R (2003) The Design Experience: The Role of Design and Designers in the 21st Century. Publisher: Ashgate Publishing Limited

1.Sanders, E and Stappers, J (2008) http://www.maketools.com/ accessed May 2011 2.The Uniform Project (2010-11) http://www.theuniformproject.com/ accessed May 2011

Von Busch, O (2008) Fashion-able. Hacktivism and Engaged Fashion Design. Publisher: Cameo

on Hippel, E (2006) Democratising Innovation. Publisher: MIT Press