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Mondo 2000 Issue 3 - What can computers do for the fashion designer?

Apr 05, 2018

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  • 8/2/2019 Mondo 2000 Issue 3 - What can computers do for the fashion designer?

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    SUNDEVIL & THE LEGION OF DOOIV

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    WHATCOMPUTERSCAN DO FOR

    THEFASHIONDESIGNER

    Wdlard Van De Bogart

    Give the program ten localbody measurements; it willprint out a master pattern fora blouse/ top/shirt, pants orskirt. The master garmentscan be elaborated into acustom-designed, custom-fitwardrobe. Tile d e s ( ~ 1 1 e r IS the0111y ltuma11 il l the e1111reprocess...Convert a graphic to knittingweave structure .. and sendthe resulting specs online toindustrial weaving machines.Design a line of garments;

    oversee project managementand direct automated cuttingand assembly, online, underone integrated system.Apply a fabric to a form; see thedrape or cling, the texture,highlights and shadows on ah\e, though admittedly virtual,model.Drop a handful of lea,es on thetrue-color, variable-res scanner.Tune the colors to realer-thanreal, or make them all variablesaturations of magenta orPantone 5000. Select only acorner of a leaf and repeat theimage for a fabric print.

    Digitize it, scan it in or draw it; once it's in the machine you can alter itinfinitely, supl'rimpose images, blow it up, pinch It down, play God inyour \'Cry own universe.Translate a sketch into a pattern by companng it wtth tmages m alibrar) of silhouettes, a library of fabrics, a fashion-history library;images are asSOCiated w1th their block patterns.Search the library databases; you are prompted for the name of a styleor a two-word description: "fabric rayon" or "year 1987'' gives youcatalogs of Images to play with ...Expl01t new matenals "Singing" fabncs Or the new aerogelfibers CAD-woven u mg orb web algorithmsCreate a pl'rfume bottle or a bracelet realistic enough for buyers to basedecisions on.. three-dimensional images complete with reflections,refractions, shadows and highlights ...

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    Later... but soon ...A traveling designer and a local buyer create private-label clothingdesigns on the spot; a telelink with the production facility allows quickdeli\'ery of sample garments.

    You're leaPing to s p e n d ~ rat d a y ~ on Luna so vou dialup something to

    Call up \OUr current 3-D bodv image. Rotate the model and consider:you're female right now, and you've added a little flesh... That's oka).when vou change the 1mage to 1 6gravity it looks almost worshipable.What about Jntique goddess? No nudity: you want to look rock-solidconservative for the business meeting.Winged Victory? Pull up the spec and copy her dress to your image,

    adjust the length... there! Itneeds work. Make the shoulderpanels nearly weightless, moresupple; yes, now they float likewings ...

    The cloth over the buttocksneeds more weight to drapeproperly ... there... and makethe sides float

    Change the apparent fabricto linen gauze, \'ery arthistorical; make 11 very-lowdensity-greyed v. h1te, turn upthe bioluminescence. Oh, no-they're bioluminescmg everything this month. Let's tryfaintly opalescent, pearly-ugh,

    that looks bogus: totally neo.Dial up the Victory again andcopy the surface light: there,you've got the exact color effectof the old marble...That looks just right. You cando your skin to match.Dial it up now, why not? beforelunch.For a technical rel'iew of availablesoftware and info on designerscurrently using it, write to:

    Willard Van De Bogart,MCI E-Mai/429-6900or FASHIONNET

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    Fashion Goes CADFashion today is being designed on thecomputer. According to a study byGwendolyn J. Sheldon for the summer '88Clothing andTextiles Jo11mal: "The employeddesigners predict that designers enteringthe industry in five years will need anunderstanding of the capability of allcomputerized apparel equipment andhands-on experience with design/illustration and patternmaking equipmentas well as grading, costing, and colormatching equipment."The more computers impact theapparel industry, the more important it willbe for a designer to create new fashion lineson the computer. In a total managementinformation system (MIS), the des1gnworkstation is placed as the front-enddriving mechanism for respondmg toconsumer demands. According toProfessor Allen Hunter of NorthCarolinaState Uruversity, uthe future applications ofCAD may be a traveling designer' whointeractively designs a pnvate label line ofclothmg for the buyer. These styles wouldthen be transmitted to the productionfacility for quick production and deliveryof the sample garments."

    -WVB

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    JEWELRY GOES CADCAD systems are now available that createthe shape of the gem stone, the shank ofrings, and even the engraving techniques inprecious metals. There are several majorCAD packages available for the jewelrydesigner. The best among these are CAD]ewe/, available through GemologicalResearch Corp in San Mateo, CA., and GemCAD, from Vance Info Systems of SanFrancisco.Generic 3D Drafting is asoftwarepackage used by The Terzian InternationalGroup that provides a library of over 100stone cuts and 80 mountings as well as somechain designs. Michael Golding of Michael&Mark of Seattle, Wash., modified theGeneric CADD package from GenericSoftware Inc., turning rough sketches ofgemstones and settings into precise visualimages. Golding mixes and matchesdiamond cuts, ring shanks, and many otherjewelry alternati\'es.

    Joan ~ i c h l i n , a fine art jeweler fromNew York City, has recently released anentire line of jewelry inspired from a3DCAD package. At the Gemological instituteof America in Santa ~ o n i c a , plans arecurrently underway to create home studycourses utilizing CAD sketching packagesthat will allow student designs to be sentover modem for evaluation.

    GIA is preparing for the big revolutionin data when there will be auniversaldigital format that can be stored andmanipulated by the designer. At a recentconvention, Iwas pleasantly shocked tohear the hypertext concept mentionedseveral times over. With this hypertextcapacity, a new interfacing of words,sounds, and visuals will be used collectivelyby the designer to model and visualize 21stcentury design trends.

    -WVB