La Papillote

ON CAMPUS P 4-5

FOOD & BEVERAGE P 8-9

BACK PAGE P 12CENTER SPREAD P 6-7

Volume 33, No.25

Culinary Culture P 3

April 12, 2013

BY: Ian Cairns, AOS Culinary

DanDelion Green Garlic MustarDWooD sorrel

When the average human dreams of spring they often think about that week long break in Florida, girls in dresses, and daffodils. Well, CIA doesn’t give us a spring break, girls aren’t in dresses, but chef whites, and daffodils are poisonous. So where does that leave us? Foraging of course! Foraging is one of the biggest food trends sweeping the nation. Popularized by famous chefs such as Noma’s Rene Redzepi, Mugaritz’s Andoni Luis Adriz, and Blue hill’s Dan Barber, this simple act of cooking the ingredients among us is being utilized by chefs around the world. Too often when we are taught about foraging or research it online the only products we hear about are: morels, fiddle-head ferns, and ramps. I’m here to tell you that there is so much more, and to basically forget about those. Instead of learning about the over harvested finds that everyone else is going to go after, I’m going to inform you about the invasive weed “Garlic mustard” and how to use the “Dandelion” for things other than making wishes. I want you to realize that the clovers on the ground are in fact “Oxalis” (or wood sorrel) and the little chive looking things around campus can be used the same way as chives! To begin, let’s start with the easiest to identify, the dan-delion. I consider this to be the most foolproof plant and the best for beginners. Normally considered the bane to any great lawn, the basal leaves of this plant is arranged in a circle and are commonly v-shaped in profile. The flowering body is yellow and composed of many rectangle petals that are also arranged in a circle pattern. Unfortunately, there are many other weeds that look almost identical to the dandelion. The good news is that all of them are edible and names of them are as common as the vegetables we use in the kitchen (ex:

salsify and chicory). Virtually every part of this plant is edible; the young leaves can be sautéed or blanched to add a nice bit-terness to any dish, the roots can be cooked anyway a carrot would, and the flowers can be made into a tea or jelly with a mild floral taste. Fast forward a month from now, nearly every embankment on the road and un-tendered area will be filled with Garlic Mustard. This plant is easily identified by its crinkly heart shaped leaves and its vast volume. Its name “Garlic Mustard” depicts its taste, which, wait for it, is a mix between garlic and mustard. Crazy right!?! Have no fear, as it’s quite tasty and its culinary applications are only limited to your imagination. I like to take its leaves, blanch them, and make pesto with walnuts and parmesan. You can also conjure up an infused oil with it; then, you use this as a base to make a bright green colored mayo. Later in the season this plant starts to flower with beautiful little white pedaled clusters. These can be used as a garnish as any micro green would. You know those little clovers on the ground that somehow end up all over campus? Yea, they’re edible. In fact, they are fairly common wood sorrel. These little lucky charms are very tasty. They have a very sharp, sour taste with a sweet finish. They can be found in both sunny and shaded areas. A com-mon area to find them is under the bushes at Pick-Herdon hall. For culinary applications they work very well in salads and as garnishes. If you had the time and patience, you could juice them and make a killer energy drink. Although there is much exploring to do in the area I must warn you there are dangers, and I’m a prime example of this. Last year during a beautiful day in spring my roommate and I both decided to go out and seize the day. About thirty

minutes into the exploration I heard a rustling of leaves and snapped towards its direction, where a snake greeted me. So, instinctively I threw a rock at it and it scurried away. I waited a couple seconds and in its place three returned. These guys weren’t as skittish and the rock trick didn’t seem to work. So, at that moment, I decided to turn around and go home. Un-fortunately I was greeted by another snake and this one de-cided to give me a quick bite to the leg. Panic ensued, and after a visit to the hospital I quickly found out it wasn’t poisonous in any form. The thing was, this bite wasn’t the one that mattered. Unknown, that very same day I was also bitten by a tiny little tick in its nymph stage. A week later I was struck with high fever, no energy, a danger-ously low platelet count. I was back in the hospital, and this time it was real. To make a long story short I was eventually diagnosed with lymes disease, but since it was caught early it was completely curable with antibiotics. The lesson here is to gear up with clothes that cover all your body and check for ticks. Especially at this time of year, a new born tick can be smaller than the size of a pencil tip. On a more positive note, much of this information about foraging is available in the Library. These plants I just told you about don’t even skim the surface of what’s about to pop up around campus. A great resource for what’s available in the Hudson valley area is the book Foraged Flavor, by Tama Wong and Eddy Leroux. This identification guide/ cookbook was co-written by the Chef de Cuisine of restaurant Daniel in NYC. Much of what appears in the book actually makes it way to the menu. It’s pretty cool you should check it out. Note: Consult and expert and or field guide before consuming any wild plant.

WilD onion

Image Credits: Wood Sorrel by http://vifarms.wordpress.com/2012/07/04/wood-sorrel-salad/, Dandelion Green by http://www.thekitchn.com/in-season-dandelion-greens-45462, Garlic Mustard by http://

www.oregon.gov/ODA/plant/weeds/Pages/profile_garlicmustard.aspx, Wild Onion courtesy Ian Cairns

2LA PAPILLOTE

COMPACTLa Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of Amer-ica since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrong-doing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

FOOD REVIEW POLICYAs a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

Ian CairnsMary FrankiniChef Stephen JohnsonJames Iskandar Gerard ViveritoIrena ChalmersSue HaugChef Richard Coppedge

Daniel JarozNichole BryantDan CastroJonathan PietzmanMichael WalshSteven KolpanMichael Earle Francis MalingAmy Zarichnak

PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Stephanie M. Kirkland

LAYOUT EDITOR Jake Hauss

ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug

EDITORIAL POLICY La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Stephanie M. Kirkland, Editor-In-Chief at [email protected] POLICY Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to [email protected] with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

CONTRIBUTORS

April 12, 2013

From the Editor’s Desk

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Coming back to the Hudson Valley area after some time away is always refreshing. I feel as though the CIA has become another home to me; one that I know like the back of my hand. And now that the weather has finally broken, it’s getting even better.

Being on a break in between AOS and BPS can be exhausting. Between traveling and seeing friends and family half of the time while the other half is spent lying on the couch, watching movies, I am aching for a schedule for once. I cannot wait to be back at the end of May. I know I should just enjoy this vacation while it lasts and I’m trying, but I love this place and all that it has done for me, and what I know my education during the BPS program will do for me too. I know that when I step foot on this campus, my inspiration will be restored. Even as I drove onto campus for the first time since the last issue of La Papillote hit stands, after the long drive from Pennsylvania, I overheard conversations on the sidewalk about Spirits and Wines, about the trends that are catching onto everyone’s coat tails. Just on the sidewalk. Almost instantly was I thrown back into the mindset of food and drink and everything and anything that goes along with it. Have you ever noticed how the topic of conversation

turns to food, in some way? Every time? It does to me, and it makes me yearn to be back even more.

When I am in town, I try to take full advantage. Seeing familiar faces is a given. Whether that means going to Courtside for the first time in weeks (you begin to crave it, I swear!) or visiting with friends in Al Forno and enjoying a personal pizza, fresh from the depths of the wood-fired oven. I get nostalgic most of the time too. I think of my little dorm in Rosenthal and the meals that I’ve made on Sundays with friends. All of the laughs and memories stay with me, as any college experience should. I think of all that is to come when we all return as well. Farmers markets with fresh ingredients await our anxious hands, and warm weather is sure to entice spur of the moment trips to some type of body of water. I think of the way that we all think of each other as a dysfunctional family at times and how we stick together. We basically all grew up together during AOS and as we tell the same stories over and over we are reminded of that. But that’s what this place does to you, it binds you together in a way that most people do not understand until they take some time away from it, and come back, searching for that inspiration that they may have lost, time after time.

As Editor-in-Chief, I also carry an amazing amount of responsibility. Sentence fragments and grammar mistakes haunt me. I re-read things it seems ten times over, that is when writers turn in their stories on time! My bright green planner is always filled with meeting times and deadlines. Pens are a necessity. I make sure to have a good number of business cards with me at all times for the interested writer, or networking. And then when it is time for the next issue of La Papillote to go to print, I am the one toiling away behind a computer screen to bring it to the masses of what is our school.

I am not the only one who takes credit though; I could not sleep at night if I could not rely on my staff as I do. I just want to take a moment and say that I appreciate all you do to make this paper operate the way it does. Your consistent dedication is an inspiration in even my own work ethic.

I see readers of this paper in part enjoying it, which is always good to see, but the other part is being thrown in the trash or used as an umbrella, and I get it. I know you just may not be impressed. But maybe now you know more than before how much work and time that I and my staff take out of our days to bring you something that is factual, fun and offers well put together pieces of writing that are applicable in our world, this foodservice industry.

As always stay hungry,

Stephanie Kirkland

3March 22, 2013

BY: Mary Frankini & Stephen Johnson, CIA Faculty

BY: Francis Maling, BPS Culinary

Well, Chefs, I am happy that Mary Frankini and Chef Johnson agreed to write an article for us. I worked with Mary when I taught at St. Andrew’s Café and when she wanted to pick up table 24’s order, you knew it had to be in the window. We had many fun times together cooking and serving customers. Stephen we all know is a great cook, Chef, and mentor to students. His humility is what we can all strive for at The CIA. -Chef Brash

It was the early 1990’s. We were both working at The Mansion on Turtle Creek. I assumed that this was our life together and we would settle nicely in Dallas, Texas. We of-ten pondered our next move but quickly got back into our work. Our perception of the Hospitality Industry was: work with fabulous people, be treated like you’re family, laugh much, and obtain an education—while being paid. A hotel employed us, so our jobs were always exciting and there was so much going on daily, but in the back of our minds change lingered. Frankini: One summer day in 1988, Steven Kolpan ap-proached me while I was working and asked me about my career and the Private Dining department that I managed. I thought to myself, “Man, he has a lot of questions.” Steven and I chatted off and on for quite some time that day. Then came the opportunity. He asked, “Have you ever thought about teaching?” Almost before he finished his sentence I said no, I couldn’t do that, but he asked me to think about

it. This potential opportunity and timing were in our favor, from the start. Johnson: Working on the line at The Mansion on Turtle Creek was a dream come true for me. I was in my early twen-ties and thought I was a pretty good cook with six years of experience behind me, but I overestimated my abilities and reality quickly set in. I was surrounded by Line Cooks and Sous Chefs who knew much more about cooking and work-ing in a professional kitchen than me, humility set in. Work-ing for Dean was a great experience; he is an unpretentious mentor but he would find that perfect moment to lean in and say, “You should think about attending The CIA in New York to perfect your skills and gain more cooking knowledge.” I only knew that The CIA was “that cooking school” that Dean had attended. Perception, assumption and opportunity all rolled into one: One evening I turned to Mary and said, “Do you think it would be a good idea for us to go to New York?” Here comes assumptions, (difficult to move with 2 kids, we love our jobs), perceptions, (could/should we really do this?), and opportunities (why not?). Three months passed-- an interview, moving, settling in, new job, new school, back to school, another job, you know: life. Frankini settled into the Table Service Department and Johnson became a student; the rest is history. Now you see we are just like you, just a bit older and wiser; we have walked in your shoes. Keep your possibilities open, never shut one door before another one opens, LOVE what you do, keep a sense of humor and take risks!

Chapter 32: Assumptions, Perceptions, and Opportunities

Blog Launch: Cooks Element

My name is James Iskandar; I am currently in my 9th term of the BPS program. My partner, Ken Nuroho, and I have created Cook’s Element. Cook’s Element is not another motivational blog geared for the cooks around the world but it is a mindset, a philosophy, a way of life. It is about changing the habits and attitudes that revolve around you as a cook. Our motto “Cooks For Life” is to remind us of what it is that we do, what got us started in this industry in the first place, the way we identify ourselves as cooks and finally to make the passion burn brighter or to reignite the passion that has been lost inside cooks. Our Mission Statement: To become a pillar of strength for all the cooks in the world. Our Vision: To create a movement which spreads the philosophy and mindset of what a great cook is. We strive to constantly be a source of motivation for the cooks around the world, and to instill the identity of what makes a cook truly great. Our Motto “Cooks For Life” has multiple layers of mean-ing. First of all, we believe that we need to keep the mentality of a cook no matter our position in the kitchen. A cook is always hungry for knowledge and wants to improve him/her-self constantly. Thus, the meaning of “Cooks For Life” means there is a never ending journey to attain perfection. On the other hand, our motto also carries the meaning that being a cook is not only a profession; it is who we are. Thus, we are cooks for life. Please support our movement by following us at cooksele-ment.com!

What would you eat with an extra $4,015? I suppose the obvious answer would be a lot. Of course, you could opt to have few truly exceptional meals at some Michelin starred restaurants or even a gastronomic tour in a few foreign coun-tries. You say you cannot afford that? If you are a smoker in NY and buy a pack of cigarettes a day, you are spending that much money in a year. I have been in professional kitchens for 25 years and the number one complaint I hear is how broke cooks are. Well, usually that conversation would take place outside on the loading docks over a cigarette or two. I am no angel nor do I impose my beliefs on others when it comes to food choices but I do know what makes sense and what doesn’t. I smoked for ten years and I enjoyed most

all of the cigarettes and cigars that I have had, I cannot lie. Lighting up after a meal or with a drink was one of life’s simpler pleasures. The ritual of having a morning espresso and a cigarette was also a pleasure of mine but it comes at a

great cost. I have had people die in my family from lung cancer. Okay, I understand the youth saying, well if it takes years off

of my life, at least they’re at the end…. True, but in the in-terim it may affect your palate. The studies can show you both sides of that argument. I am not a scientist so I cannot say definitively one way or the other. What I can tell you now that

I do not smoke is that when I am in a fine dining restaurant and trying to appreciate the aromas of my meal, the stench of stale cigarette smoke on your clothes next to me does not make it any easier. I am not going to preach to you all like a parent about quitting smoking. I will suggest, though, that having clear lungs, white teeth, fresh breath and a few extra thousand dollars a year will most likely make you feel better about yourself, and

those around you may think a bit more highly of you. At the very least try it out. Knowing both sides of the equation will allow you to have a valid argument.

4LA PAPILLOTE

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BY: Irena Chalmers, CIA Instructor

Haven’t ridden a bike in years? Like to bike but not enough to bring your own bicycle to campus? Could one borrow a bike to ride on the Walkway Over the Hudson or just up to Stop and Shop? Your questions have been answered with the launch of the new CIA Bike Borrow Program on April 5th. “We are looking for methods to give on campus stu-dents the ability to get off campus in various ways, and the Bike Borrow Program is just the latest component” stated Alice-Ann Schuster, Associate Vice President and Dean of Student Affairs. “With the introduction of our Saturday Route 9 bus shuttle program last summer, along with the Hertz on Demand Car Rental launched in January, we feel the addition of this Bike Borrow program is the third phase in assisting our on campus students in getting off campus on their own terms without much cost.” Six bikes are available to be borrowed, at no cost. Simply a registration and waiver form needs to be filled out at the Student Recreation Center Front Desk, a process that takes just a few minutes, and then one is off and riding! The six bikes come in a myriad of sizes and are located immediately outside the front doors of the SRC. Bikes are on a first come, first served basis. A copy of your student ID must be left, and bikes can be borrowed at anytime dur-ing the day and for any length of time, as long as they are returned the same day by dark. Users are obviously liable if there is any damage to the bikes. “Just five days into the program, we already have had over 40 students/staff borrow a bike for a ride” stated David Whalen, Associate Dean for Student Activities, Recreation & Athletics. “Our first borrow was actually a staff member on her lunch hour,” said Whalen, “how great is that!” For further information or questions, please contact the Student Recreation Center Front Desk at 451-1400.

New Bike Borrow Program

BY: Sue Haug, SRC Manager

I’m shocked to discover how many otherwise sensible peo-ple yearn to become food writers. It isn’t an easy life. First, you’ve got to study geography. Geography is destiny. We associate certain places with specific foods. Tuscany is still right up there when it comes to desirable place names. We much prefer Swiss to any old cheese fondue. Cassoulet from Toulouse is infinitely superior to pork ‘n beans although your personal preference may vary. Provence, as in Warm Provencal Tart with Seared Tuna and Fragrant Herbs, beats a tuna fish sandwich every time. Napa, Maine and Vermont are magical words to me. So is Texas, but only when we’re talking about barbecue. New

Jersey, though it claims to be The Garden State, lacks the charm of Buffalo, New York. We salivate over the promise of Buffalo wings and even mozzarella from a buffalo. Chefs like to suggest the trout has been swimming in a lake, though we all know full well it mostly comes from fish farms in Idaho. Bays are dreamy places particularly at sunset. Booth Bay and Chesapeake Bay sound like appealing places to go for oysters. Prince Edward Island is a real island; Staten Island lacks its charisma. The Mediterranean diet retains its promise of life everlast-ing. A recent report reveals some fish stocks are regaining strength in the Atlantic but salmon mostly do not swim there anymore.

Food writers have to divide all these subtleties of lan-guage. Only then can they choose one of these specialties: Anthologist, Biographe,, Blogger, Cartoonist, Columnist, Cookbook Author, Cookbook Reviewer, Cookbook Trans-lator, Ethics Reporter, Ghostwriter, Literary Agent, Menu Writer, Mystery Food Writer, Restaurant Reviewer, Science WriterScript Writer, Travel Writer, Trend Tracker Or you may be better suited among several dozen other comfortable niches. The trick is to keep a roof over your head while you and your mouse follow your heart.

So You Want to be a Food Writer

“What would you eat with an extra $4,015? I suppose the obvious

answer would be a lot.”

Freedom from Smoking BY: Gerard Viverito, Chef Instructor

ON CAMPUS5

April 12, 2013

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BY: Daniel Jarosz, AOS Culinary

BY: Richard Coppedge, CIA Instructor

Stop – that is what it means. On a few occasions, while walking towards Roth Hall from the staff parking lot, I have had to fear for my well-being. Yes, of course, many of us tend to not take the octagonal-shaped red-colored sign for granted, while others do. One dark, rainy day one year ago, I almost became a statistic of the ‘run down in the crosswalk.’Those two opposite stop signs, in front of St. Andrew’s are close but separate. As I entered the crosswalk, I could see the operator of the car approach the first stop sign, and noticed they were not stopping. I decided to continue on, through the crosswalk (which as a pedestrian is my amiable right). Wrong choice! The car continued on through, just missing me. I recognized the car type, and its state license plates, and continued on to get my keys for bakeshop two. After all, it was Day One, and I needed to get to work. I began my Day One, with some trepidation, still think-ing about the accident which I would have been the subject of. So after lecture, during a short break, I wandered out to the student parking lot and found the vehicle in question. I confirmed the out of state license plates and discovered the CIA commuter parking sticker number. I called the safety office to inquire about the vehicle and to much surprise, the car belonged to one of my students! After class was over, I asked the student about her early morning driving through campus stop signs, and informed her that it was I who almost ended up on the hood of her car. After many apologies, and some guilt, we moved on to Advanced Baking Principles all for the better. Stop signs on campus and off campus serve a purpose and pedestrians in crosswalks deserve respect. Remember, if the roles are reversed, I will look out for you in the crosswalk. Regards, Chef Coppedge

Stop!

This March, spring arrived with an essence of winter. Al-though frosty weather is present, there will be thousands of tiny rain droplets coming our way in the month of April. The crystal clear water will bring to life all the beautiful arrays of flowers. Mother Nature will pleasantly surprise us with her beauty and warmth. Hibernation is officially over! So put away the long sleeve winter sweaters and remove the heavy casserole dishes from the kitchen. The season to indulge has passed by. It is time to forget about all the succulent, buttery comfort food such as bubbly chicken pot pies, slow roasted pork butt, gooey and cheesy French onion soup, and oven roasted chicken. It’s only human to eat like this during the cold, snowy nights, however, most of us take on a few extra pounds. During spring we have the opportunity to start all over and shed some weight. Flowers blossom in the spring and so do our appetites. Believe it or not, we tend to eat lighter and healthier during this season. Our culinary endeavors lean us toward refresh-ing, acidic, crisp, and clean flavors. Instead of sipping egg-nog by the fireplace, we crave ice-cold soda pop outdoors. Our stomachs growl as colorful tossed salads or chilled fruit salads enter the picture. The best part about spring is that there is very little guilt involved with the food. There should be no reason why anyone does not cook dur-ing springtime. Even if your life is busy, making a simple meal for yourself and others can be relaxing and enjoyable. All it takes a trip to the super market and the flick of a switch in the kitchen, oh and maybe some cooking if you feel ad-venturous. In as little as twenty minutes you can be enjoying a dish inspired by spring. If you have trouble coming up with ideas think of Mediterranean food. Pasta primavera, lamb burgers, and even pasta with pesto are potential crowd

pleasers. Did you know studies show people who cook their own meals live a longer life? By far, the best place to go after winter melts away is the farmers markets. All the fruits and vegetables begin to slowly ripen and boost in flavor. A lunch or dinner can be minutes away. Sometimes the best meals are the ones that require only a few ingredients. Allow your produce to shine. Even Fernand Point insists, “The mark of a great cook is one’s con-fidence for simplicity.” In other words basic technique and quality ingredients is all you need to make any meal. Luckily, spring offers fresh herbs, bright citrus, and many crisp veg-etables. Try to make the ingredients speak for themselves. As temperatures rise with the change of season, we can cool ourselves down with dessert. Now is your chance to take a trip to your favorite frozen yogurt or ice cream shop. Eventually we make all our beverages cold, from coffee to fruit smoothies. For dessert we avoid warm, molten choco-late cake and prefer something light, yet decadent; chocolate mousse anyone? It is safe to say that chocolate and ice cream are great choices for the springtime too? In addition to eating, spring time is ideal for traveling and playing sports. Take every opportunity you have to step outdoors. Take time to remove the barbecue from the dusty garage and put it to work! Bring the cooking outdoors and appreciate Mother Nature. The spirit and energy of spring should be like a breath of fresh air. Make time to relax, treat yourself, and take in the outdoor ambiance. Let’s enjoy everything this season has to offer before the unbearable heat of summer rolls around. It is finally the time to explore the outdoors, and eat a great spring meal. This is the season that brings to life all the flowers and our appetites.

Spring Has Arrived

http://mountlad.blogspot.com/2013/02/spring-please-come.html

LA PAPILLOTECENTER SPREAD6

Westchester Country Club is working to take the stereotype of the typical country club to a whole different level. Both Chefs at the operation and the Director of Restaurant Out-lets are CIA graduates. James Schulz, the Director of Restau-rant Outlets is a 2004 graduate with an AOS degree as well as a 2006 graduate with a BPS degree and was a Teaching Assistant at our American Bounty Restaurant in 2007 and 2008. Joseph Albertelli (pictured above right) is the Execu-tive Chef and is a 2005 graduate with an AOS degree. Fi-nally, Gerald Ford, the Executive Sous Chef is a 2001 gradu-ate with an AOS degree and a 2003 graduate with a BPS degree. Westchester Country Club sets a new stage by lead-ing by example. They are more than your average country club. They provide a dining experience that is comparable to white table cloth dining in New York City, or a five star diamond dining experience. The country club operates year round. They have three banquet rooms, a sport house, and a bakery. Their most popular seasons are around Thanks-

ging, Christmas, and the summer particularly because of the special programs they run during the beach season. One of their restaurants features barbeque cooking. The kitchen is equipped with three million dollars’ worth of brand new, top of the line equipment. This is so their Chefs can produce the best burgers and home smoked barbeque their clients look forward to all year. The club’s snack bar is an upscale cafeteria and a warm extension of the home kitchen. Offer-ings include grilled sandwiches and deli meats, as well as 60 different drinks. They also have an ice cream shop that uses all natural ingredients. Not only does the Westchester Country Club stand for cre-ating great food, they strive to do it in an environmentally friendly way, they even have an herb garden on site! They are looking for externs, apprentices, and full time employees. The apprenticeship is a program that a student can partici-pate in after graduation. It is for culinarians who are inter-ested in furthering their education for two additional years. It encourages taking educational courses online, experiencing-

demos in everything from ice sculpting to butchering, and taking the master chef exam. As for the possible externships, they have taken externs from all over the country, and are really looking to expand the knowledge of the future culinar-ians. Housing is even provided on site. As for full time em-ployees the Westchester Country Club does compete, eager to expand the knowledge base of their employees. The many different types of dining at the Westchester Country Club allows them to offer experience in every area, from quick service to finished plates. Another thing that sets Westchester Country Club apart from the others is the new Westchester Country Club Uni-versity. It is one of only twelve clubs in the country that are a part of this new program. It is a series of online courses, accessible to all employees. They have classes for everything, between business management and human resources. The Westchester Country Club is looking to grow and expand, and to continue to broaden the idea of the typical country club. The best part is that you can be a part of it too.

Country Club InnovationsIn Westchester County

BY: Nichole Bryant, AOS Culinary

Photos Courtesy of Westchester Country Club.

7April 12, 2013

BY: Dan Castro, BPS CulinaryThe Culinary Institute of America has had one goal throughout the years, which is to teach people how to succeed in the culinary or baking and pastry industry with tools such as Culinary Math and a multitude of classes focusing on cultures and techniques. While food service has recently been more emphasized lately within the school’s new curriculum, it has not stood out or been valued by many as it should. It’s the Michael Jordan and Scottie Pippen debate, where Jordan is similar to the kitchen where people gravitate to “his airness” due to his popularity while Pippen, similar to service, is complementary to Jordan’s success. Pippen was not as popular, however essential and noticeable. Together these two made a spectacular duo for the Chicago Bulls who won seven championships together under Phil Jackson’s helm.To vanquish the superiority battle between the kitchen and the dining room believing that “Hospitality is a team sport,” Anthony Rudolf, the Director of New York Operations of Thomas Keller’s Restaurant group came to campus and presented what he called “The Eleven Things I Have Learned”. In this presentation, Rudolf essentially presented a service version of ”Kitch-en Confidential” by Anthony Bourdain, emphasizing the same elements that are needed to succeed or remain sustainable in a very tough industry - heart, drive, and sacrifice.Rudolf’s presentation topics were presented as listed below:

1. Patience2. Awareness

3. Sacrifice. What is it?4. Building Skyscrapers5. Talent is Overrated

6. Frame it in the positive7. Seek first to understand

8. Know who your guests are 9. In order to be a general…

10. Build the relationships 11. Change is inevitable

One of the main elements that stood out in his presentation was Number 4: How to Build a Skyscraper. He states that to build a skyscraper one must create a foundation, put in the work, and people must see the person as a skyscraper. Whether it is in the dining room or the kitchen, fundamentals have been emphasized here at The Cu-linary Institute and everywhere else. For example, it’s not possible to be an Executive Chef if one does not possess the basic cooking techniques of one, nor it is possible to be a General Manager if one does not know the steps of service at his or her restaurant. Once the fundamentals are in place, it needs to be repeated again, and again. As these tasks are repeated, one becomes more consistent, making their work flawless and easier day after day, slowly develop-ing themselves as a force in the industry. And once the time comes, the confidence is necessary to be seen as a skyscraper - once people have seen what a person’s abilities are and become impressed by it, they will remember this skyscraper and would want to share this monumental experience. Another element in Rudolf’s speech that stood out is sacrifice. The word is overused in this industry, but it is the one that holds most true. He states that ironically one does not make the sacrifice but rather, it’s their loved ones that make it. For example, Rudolf states that he celebrates holidays with his loved ones on a different day as he is working on those days at Per Se. And strangely, they were okay with it as long as his presence was there as their world revolved around his, and not the other way around, understanding the situa-tion and industry that he was working in. As students in The Culi-nary, we experience the same pain that Rudolf has gone through both physically whether it’s knife cuts or burns and mentally due to homesickness, and in some days, loneliness. The points from building a skyscraper carry here as he also stated that “if you want something, go get it”. Which is what many of us are doing now in this phase of our lives.Rudolf also spoke heavily regarding awareness, whether it is for the customers, employees or oneself. From a customer and employee standpoint, he states that the customer bases shift often between the restaurants in New York that he manages, whether it is Per Se or Bouchon. Because of these shifts, many people are often impacted in this industry as it ultimately leads to the success or failure of all the restaurants being managed. In assessing or being aware of oneself, Rudolf states that talent is overrated. He would much rather hire

someone with desire to learn. But not without it is timing, and luck. A perfect example of this is an anecdote where he pursued a position at Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s restaurant as a Maitre D’ and told him he was ridiculous, but gave him a Front Waiter position instead and took advantage, even if he had to commute from Philadelphia to New York everyday in order to do so. From where he started to where he is today, this story solidifies that Rudolf as given so much time to the industry from learning the basics here at The Culinary Institute going from the Associate’s Program to the Bachelor’s Program, to working his way up in several restaurants, ultimately moving to Per Se and becoming successful for many years consistently garnering high accolades from the Michelin Guide and New York Times. Prior to giving his presentation, he told his audience that he would be stepping down from his position to “reinvest in his life”. For someone in his thirties, it is odd to make this decision. But in the restaurant industry, there is no set age for someone’s prime. It is either now, or it’s never. As he has continually shown success during his stay at Per Se with a master perfectionist in Chef Thomas Keller, it is safe to say that Rudolf has earned his right to reinvest in whatever life he has remaining.As students were given time to answer questions, a statement came out instead. Angela Nea-goe, a ninth-term bachelor’s student, stated that visits such as Rudolf’s reinvests her faith in the college as she would like to pursue a career in the dining room someday, having worked as a Manager in Training under Professor Vincenzo Lauria in Caterina D’Medici, and genuinely thanked him for speaking due to his inspiring stories. This statement by Neagoe brought a slight grin to Rudolf’s face before replying to her - a sign of instant gratification, the primary reason why he made the switch from the kitchen to the dining room. Having that satisfaction and gratitude is much like Jordan and Pippen - One cannot win a championship without the other.

Kitchen and Dining Room: Separate But Equal

8LA PAPILLOTE

You may have noticed (as I have noticed) that there is something different in the air these days. Warmth. I would have nearly forgotten the existence of that golden orb in the sky had it not popped out and shown its face. But now that I recall that it’s there, I am reminded of the fun events that come with it and all the outdoor fun times to be had in its warmth. So what does a culinary student start to think of when the weather begins to get warm? Barbeque, cookouts, pool parties and so on. The common denominator in all of

these is meat (unless you are a vegetarian and then I cannot help you). So I sat down with our very own Meats instruc-tor Chef Schneller to discuss some ideas for spring as well as what are some good sources to gain some general informa-tion about the meat industry in the Hudson Valley. The first place that any student interested in the field of butchery should investigate is The Charcuterie Club. Chef Schneller is the advisor to the group and Tim Foley serves as the club’s president. They have been holding events con-sistently throughout the school year; a notable event of late was the breaking down of a whole hog in Danny Kaye The-ater. Chef Schneller informed me that the club often sells off whatever they make or process to the students in attendance. Their mission, “Is to further students’ knowledge of and inter-est in the art and craft of charcuterie through lectures, dem-onstrations, activities, and the collaborative efforts of club members.” If you are interested you can get in contact with them at [email protected]. However, if your interest goes beyond campus some fun things to look into during the warm weather months are tour-ing some of the local farms as well as shopping at some of the farmers markets that will be increasing in number as the Spring and Summer progress. A starting point for anyone in-terested is to check out the New York Beef Industry Council’s webpage that includes a variety of resources from recipes, industry news, and nutrition information as well as occasion-ally offering tours of farms and a handy State Fair page. All of these fun pages can be found at www.nybeef.org with an assortment of supplemental pages on the bottom of the page too. Some local farms and restaurants producing local prod-ucts Chef Schneller mentioned were The Old Chatham Sheepherding Company which is located about an hour and a half north of campus and boasts a green mentality as well as award winning cheese and yogurt (after you see the label pictured below you will probably recognize it as it is used in many of the school’s kitchens). It is also the largest sheep farm in America, sitting on 600 acres and their website says that you can stop by at any time. You can get in contact with the proprietors Tom and Nancy at blacksheepcheese.squarespace.com/contact-us-directions. There is also the fa-mous Fleisher’s, a name that any butcher enthusiast should or would know, which has a shop in Kingston as well as a new operation in Brooklyn. There are many ways to get involved and informed from this small butchery which offers butchers training classes, books, an informed staff and a mis-sion statement that lets you know they are serious about what they do. “Fleisher’s mission is to connect consumers with local, sustainable farms that raise their animals according to our strict standards. We only work with farms and slaugh-terhouses that are family run and located within 50 miles of our shop in Kingston, New York. This is the key to bringing

you the freshest, best tasting meat possible. Our commitment supports local farmers and minimizes environmental impact. Industrial farming requires transportation, processing, pack-aging and fossil fuel usage that puts tremendous stress on the environment. For example, between production and trans-portation, growing 10% more produce for local consump-tion in Iowa would result in an annual savings ranging from 280,000 to 346,000 gallons of fuel, and an annual reduction in CO2 emissions ranging from 6.7 to 7.9 million pounds.” They can even brag about having been on the Martha Stew-art show! If you are feeling like making a real road trip, Flying Pigs Farm is located about 2 and half hours north in Salem, New York. You can visit the farm or just order their products on-line. Learn about their operation at flyingpigsfarm.com.After these trips you will be hungry of course so stop at some of our local restaurants. There are a few restaurants Chef Schneller informed me of that are using local products. The Terrapin Restaurant, The Red Devon, and the Global Palate all are close to campus and offer a variety of options for any palate. So let’s say that you have gone to the farm and grabbed your meat and cheese, stopped on the drive back at a lovely restaurant for lunch but are not quite prepared for that big cook out you are having tomorrow. How can you finish your shopping while staying out in the lovely sunshine and sup-port our local farms? I gave you the answer earlier, at one of our local farmers markets. There is a wonderful resource on the Hudson Valley Food Network’s webpage that allows you to search for a market by either location or day of the week. As there are a multitude of markets I suggest you find one that best suits your needs (www.hvfoodnetwork.com/page/hudson-valley-farmers-market).Now you are ready to be that guy or girl in the apron with some amazing catch phrase plastered across it like, “Kiss the Chef.” Chef Schneller suggests using cuts of meat of a lesser quality with a better flavor like a trip tip, sirloin flap, hanger or skirt steak. He expressed a real excitement when I asked him what he would suggest as a marinade or a rub for one’s products because it allows you to really go crazy and experi-ment. He suggested some basic ingredients, olive oil garlic, basil, and chilies just to name a few. Again the beauty is in being able to find your own zone for grilling. Just remember if you aren’t having fun you should remember it is springtime and you can have another mojito at the grill. That will perk you up. We have covered a lot of information but hopefully it was helpful to get you involved in local meat production so that you can understand the process from start to finish and maybe down the road you will be buying your animals in wholes and halves and breaking them down yourselves for your cookouts. I know you can so get out there and do it.

BY:Michael Walsh, AOS Culinary Shhhh-thnk shhhh-thnk shhhh-thnk as over and over the knife passes through the onion, is stopped by the cut-ting board beneath. Breaking the house rules, we dare to enter the kitchen while dinner is being made. “Mom, can we have some onion?” She hands us one full slice each. “Now get out,” she commands as she continues her chore. My sisters and I take our prizes and return to the den. Commercial break over, The Brady Bunch have deter-mined to stage a competition to prove whether Greg or Marcia is the better driver, and will get to use the car first. Feeling no suspense at all since we’ve seen the rerun un-counted times, my sisters and I nibble away at the onion, one ring at a time, joyfully eating around and around and around each diminishing segment. Meanwhile, from the kitchen, the abrupt sizzle an-nounces that Mom has turned to the stove. Following behind the sizzle comes that magnificent aroma, that perfume of the onion coated in, succumbing to the hot oil. As the occasional scrape of the skillet bot-tom against the burner marks time, the telltale dropping pitch of the sizzle-turned-hiss signals the progress of heat and oil softening the onion. The raw onion now consumed—in the den by us kids, and in the kitchen by the cooking process—, the TV receives the majority of my sisters’ and my attention and the sounds and aromas of our future dinner-in-progress recede, but don’t disappear. When the call to table comes—“Kids! Wash your hands and come sit!”—we rush to the bathroom sink, competing as if going first makes any difference in how quickly we’ll eat; we still all have to be at the table to say Grace. As we serve, passing each dish to the left (clockwise!), my dinner takes shape on my plate: rice on the bottom, peas on top of the rice, and then-- …and then comes the tuna, drowning in the cream sauce and entangled in... in those onions. Eww. Now limp and messy, practically see-through and coated in sauce, the bane of my mealtime, those hated, yucky, slithery onions. Blech! How can anyone eat those?! I don’t want to eat onions! Why do I have to? Why do they have to be in my food at all? “Michael, you like onions! You eat them all the time, in chili, and in spaghetti....” “That’s different! I don’t know those are there! Those are too small to see! These are yucky!” “You ate them before dinner, raw.” “Those were crispy. These are gross.” “Well, pick them out if you don’t want them. Just eat around them.” If they thought I wouldn’t, Ha! That was just exactly what I did. I didn’t care how long it took, how much longer I was at the table than everyone else-- that wasn’t as important as making sure I didn’t accidentally eat one of those onions. The next day, Mom sliced away once again, perhaps making chili, perhaps spaghetti. shhhh-thnk shhhh-thnk shhhh-thnk. And once again, “Mom, can we have some onion?”

BY: Jonathan Peitzman, AOS Culinary

Food Memory

It’s Spring, Call the Butcher!

http://j3nn.net/blog/2011/06/06/baa-baa-black-sheep-sheeps-milk-yogurt/

http://www.fleishers.com/new-york-city-delivery/how-do-i-order

FOOD & BEVERAGE 9April 12, 2013

BY: Steven Kolpan, CIA ProfessorLast summer, I made one of my favorite cold dishes, scallops ceviche, for myself and a friend. Redolent of fresh lime juice, cucumbers, jalapeños, and scallions, I decided to serve the ceviche with one of my favorite white wines, Muscadet. Mus-cadet, an appellation d’origine contrôlée white wine from the Loire Valley in France, is wonderfully light and refreshing, with enough acidity to stand up to the lime juice in the cevi-che, and with just a touch of brininess to complement the sea scallops. Really a delicious match. My friend and I really enjoyed the food and the wine, and when she asked for some more of the cold Muscadet, I happily complied. I took a short walk to the fridge, where the wine was chilling, and I filled her glass with the sublime liquid. When she asked to see the bottle so she could re-member the name of the wine and the producer, I started to chuckle and motioned to her to join me at the refrigerator door. We both peered at the collection of white wine bottles on the first shelf of the fridge, but something seemed amiss, something was not quite right. Something was there that didn’t seem to belong. Muscadet in a box. My friend viewed me with a look of shock and utter dis-belief, but tempered by a smile that said, “Cool!” And indeed the wine was cool and fresh and delicious, in spite of – or maybe because of – the fact that it was ensconced in a three-liter box (the equivalent of four bottles of wine), holding a collapsible plastic liner and featuring an easy push spout. French wine in a box. Who’d a thunk it? I’m not a wine snob, and I believe there is a special place in Hell for those who are. But wine in a box? Yup. Today, you can find vintage-dated wines of good quality in boxes with air-resistant liners or in Tetra-Paks (basically fancy milk cartons), and folks are enjoying the wine and they are really enjoying the price. You can buy a perfectly drinkable 3 liter box of wine – from California, Australia, or France – for un-der $20; that’s less than $5 per bottle. Some are a bit more expensive, some a bit less, but the savings-per-bottle are as-tounding. And there are other advantages. Because of its packaging, box wines stay fresh for close to a month once opened, so if you just want one six ounce glass of wine with your dinner, the box will last for about 16 dinners, and the last glass will be as fresh as the first. On the other hand, if you’re going to a picnic with half a dozen friends and you bring along a box of white and a box of red, that’s 32 glasses of wine available to enjoy in the sunshine. Box wines are largely eco-friendly, with most of the com-ponents bio-degradable or recyclable, and they certainly eclipse the bottle/cork/ label/foil model in this arena. But I think what I like most about high-quality box wines is the

same thing I like about wine bottles with screw caps: no cork-screw! Except in restaurants, where the ritual of a server or som-melier removing the cork from a wine bottle still thrives, the corkscrew has become a quaint relic. I mean, it’s so 20th century. Add to this that it is now an indisputable fact that corks are responsible for quite a bit of spoiled wine, at least 5% of every bottle opened with a corkscrew. When a wine is “corked,” TCA – short for 2,4,6-trichloroanisole - produces cork taint in the wine due to the use of chlorine to bleach the corks. What other consumer product would accept a 5% rate of failure, especially when using alternative closures and containers – screw caps and boxes, among several others – are readily available? By the way, my experience with corked wines is closer to 10%, and I’m not alone. Often, my wine students ask me to intentionally expose them to a corked wine so they can find out what it smells like (for the record, corked wine smells wet cardboard and old socks, along with other appealing aro-mas). I tell them to “just wait. I won’t have to do a thing, but I guarantee you before this course is over we will open at least one corked wine.” I have yet to disappoint those who crave the experience, but class members never ask to smell another corked wine. Unfortunately, they usually get at least one more. The old image of box wines is that of cheap and crum-my swill with generic labels (“Chablis,” “Burgundy,” “Rhine Wine,” all of it from the industrial vineyards of California’s San Joaquin Valley). These are 5 liter boxes, not 3 liters, and you should avoid them, unless for some reason you enjoy them; taste is, after all, subjective. Today, however, you can find perfectly drinkable box wines made from popular va-rietals, including Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Cabernet Sau-vignon, Merlot, Shiraz, and even Pinot Noir, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. The “new” box wines have caught on in the marketplace, and are the fastest-growing segment of wine sales in the United States, where they currently account for about 25% of all wine sales. Incidentally, in Australia nearly 40% of wine is sold in boxes, and in Denmark it’s more than 50%. I must say that although box wines are represented in retail shops in the Hudson Valley, it is not the ideal place for box wines to flourish. In New York State, wine cannot be sold in supermarkets or convenience stores, and these are the natural homes for box wines. Pick up the groceries; pick up a box or two of wine. Buy some gas and a six-pack; grab that box of Pinot Grigio. In conversations with wine retail-ers in the Hudson Valley I found that box wine is not all that popular…yet. But I also noticed that almost every store I went into carried at least two or three different brands. Don’t

be shy to ask your local wine retailer to order a particular box wine for you; a wide variety are available to them through their distributors. So, box wine has come of age. It’s time to Drink Inside the Box. Or, to (mis)quote the Grateful Dead, “It’s Just a Box of Wine.” Here are some popular box wines that you might enjoy:

From California:Delicato produces California Shiraz, Merlot, and Chardonnay ($18/3l). Trove produces California Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Pinot Grigio ($23/3l)Black Box produces wines with a pedigree of place, at about $20/3l: Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles; Chardonnay from either Napa Valley or Monterey; Sonoma County Mer-lot; and Shiraz from Australia’s Barossa Valley.Three Thieves approaches box wines a little differently. Es-teemed winemaker Joel Gott produces one liter Tetra Packs of White Zinfandel, Pinot Grigio, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Three Thieves also markets its wines in 250ml 4-packs. Ei-ther way, it’s $10 per liter. Three Thieves recently announced that they will be producing a line of box wines produced from organically-grown grapes, too. Corbett Canyon: If you’re on a tight budget, and you’ve got a big party, big picnic, or just a big thirst, Corbett Canyon pro-duces decent wine at a true bargain price. White Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, and Merlot are available in 3 liter boxes for $10 each.

From Australia:Hardy’s Stamp of Australia is available in Chardonnay, Ries-ling, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and a Shiraz-Gren-ache blend ($16/3l)Banrock Station produces Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon ($16/3l)

From South Africa:Rain Dance produces a very good Shiraz from the South Cape region for $15.

From France:French Rabbit presents their wines in flashy one liter Tetra Paks. They are all Vin de Pays varietal-labeled wines, includ-ing Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Mer-lot. The cost is $10/liter.Free Range is the company that produces the Muscadet I men-tioned in this article. They also produce white and red Bor-deaux wines, as well as Vin de Pays Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Merlot. Price is $30/3l.

Drinking Inside the Box

The world is once again in transition. We are moving from a very cold slow lifestyle to a warmer fast-paced lifestyle. As we move from season to season, as do we move from beer styles. Gone are the days of the heavy, high alcoholic beers. The time has come for light crisp easy drinking beers. Unfor-tunately for many of us beer fans, we tend to skip spring time and move right into summer and the lovelies that it brings. For those of us that decide to sit back and enjoy the transition to summer, there are many great beer styles that are available that fit perfectly into the spring season. The best spring time beer comes from Germany. The Bock style family is a great fit for the springtime. First developed in Einbeck Germany in the 14th century, was a dark, malty, ale that had light hop character. The style was later adopted by brewers in Munich in the 17th century, and incorporated the new lager style of brewing to the beer. The Bock is most closely associated with religious celebrations, and was brewed as well as consumed by the Bavarian monks as a source of

nutrients during times of fasting. The Hofbräuhaus is still up and running after 424 years. The brewery was founded in 1589, by Wilhelm V., Duke of Bavaria, as to lessen the import of beers into Munich. In 1828 King Ludwig I. decided that it was a wise idea to open up the private taverns of the Hofbräuhaus to the public. In 1879 they finally Hofbräuhaus decided to make their name a reg-istered trademark to deter other breweries from using their brand. In 1944 the tavern was almost completely destroyed as a casualty of World War II, although the main beer hall was still standing and was able to function. Today the brewery is owned and managed by the Sperger family. The Hofbräu Munchen Maibockis a fantastic example of the Maibock style. This beer clocks in at the higher end of the alcohol percentage allowable by the style at 7.2% ABV. When poured out of the 11.2 fluid ounce bottle you see the glorious amber color. The clarity brought by the lager brewing process is just phenomenal. The aroma off the beer itself is a malty

fresh baked biscuit or loaf of bread. The carbonation level is moderately high, which is acceptable by the style guidelines. The beer has a medium body to it. The finish is a little on the astringent side. The flavor brings on a malty sweetness as well as very subtle hop bitterness. There is a slight peppery spice to the finish as well. Overall this is a good beer; unfortunately it does lose some points for the astringency. Pairing this beer with food is a little difficult. The slight bitterness could counteract the fattiness of a nice steak, or something fried. Another great option would be to pour this beer with a spicy Asian barbecue. A nice fatty cheese like and Emmenthaler Swiss cheese would help to keep the sweetness and hop bitterness at bay. Serve this beer with a nice white chocolate raspberry cheesecake to help wrap up the meal. If you have any suggestions for future beers to review or fa-vorite style that you would like to have profiled please email me at: [email protected].

Michael Earle’s Brew of the BlockBY: Michael Earle, Student Government President

http://www.fleishers.com/new-york-city-delivery/how-do-i-order

Eliot Swartz is the founder and president of Kitchen Culture, Inc., a

consulting company that partners with restaurant owners, manufactur-

ers, and celebrities on new product development, quality assurance, and

strategic vision in the retail and foodservice categories.

He previously co-founded and was co-chair of Two Chefs On A

Roll in Carson, CA. Launched in 1985 with just $7,000, the company

became a multi-million-dollar supplier of premium custom savory and

bakery products for retailers and the foodservice industry. Its products

include dips, sauces, soups, dressings, and desserts. Recognizing the

company’s innovation and growth, Inc. magazine featured Two Chefs

On A Roll in an eight-page cover story in its August 2006 issue. In

February 2008, Bakkavor International, the world’s largest manufacturer

of home meal replacements, acquired the company and has continued

the Two Chefs legacy.

Chef Swartz began his career in the hospitality industry at an early

age, working in his father’s family-run restaurant and absorbing the

entrepreneurial spirit firsthand. Young Eliot’s passion for food was the

driving force behind his decision to attend the prestigious Culinary

Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. Entering the industry after his

1979 graduation, he held executive chef positions at a variety of white-

tablecloth restaurants and served as a consultant in the development

and execution of restaurant openings. In September 2012, Chef Swartz

was honored to be named to the CIA Society of Fellows, a select group

that helps maintain and strengthen The Culinary Institute of America’s

position as the world’s premier culinary college. He is a member of the

American Institute of Baking and the Food Products Association.

Eliot Swartz believes deeply in working with non-profit organiza-

tions and giving back to the community. He is privileged to serve on

the board of directors for a number of non-profits, including Camp

Newman, a children’s Summer Camp in Santa Rosa, CA; Kindred

SPIRITS in San Pedro, CA, a non-profit humanitarian aid organization;

and The Union for Reform Judaism, a national organization that serves

more than 900 synagogues. In addition, Chef Swartz’s newest endeavor

is serving as a charter member of the South Bay Entrepreneurial Center,

whose purpose is to assist startups and emerging growth companies.

LA PAPILLOTE10

SITE NAME STATESTUDENT

Culinary Arts Group #1

Baking and Pastry

Welcome BackRetuRning exteRns!

Culinary Arts Group #2

Culinary Arts Group #3

AOS Graduating Class of April 12, 2013

Dirinia HardyDrew RosenbergJordan MotonNicholas Ivancic

Carl SchwartzMark SteinRobert Buckley

Victoria LadoDaniel ElenenJennifer KempinJared MillerAnthony BaggeMike Mastracchio

Justin HutsonFalisha ZitteskiCorrine WilliamsDavid BournePeter CarmichaelJordan Joseph

Kaitlyn RaffertyElizabeth ZimmermanKatherine BrackebushBrittany CiranniBlancalirz DiazAribil LopezRebekah MacFaddenKristina FontanoEmily RubanoDanielle Ondash

Jenna FuSami GrubbsPaige SylvesterShannon HuntEvelyn NiemanZacharay MorgartSamantha AnastasiaElizabeth E. DukerCatherine Rizzo

Shelby Van EttenKathryn JohnsonAlexis RussoJessica MarkoMarie StuartMarissa PelligrinoDanielle GotmanAdam Goodison

Jinou KoConner SloanDena SotiriouCory RuthAdam McNeilWilliam Briant ThayerMark PorterArielle Harleman

Culinary Arts Group #4Kirsten ThornMaria MartinezMaria CiccotelloLauren ColemanSamantha CarlucciDebie QuijaclaSamantha Cancro

Erica TahamChris SaekyNick MonteleoneJason BentleyAdam DuCharmeLauren SchleyerGregory S Idler

WDW Contempory Resort Winvian

Craft RestarantBalthazar Bakery

Le BernadinJoe’s Bar and GrillSidney Street Café

Little NellSideburnn’s

Pebble BeachBlue Hill at Stone Barns

Bar BouludSanctuary

John’s Island ClubRestaurant Daniel

Ritz CarltonWDW Swan and Dolphin

AureoleRestaurnant North

Park Ave.Hil, TheMontage

Occaisions CatererFairmont Battery Wharf

Union Square CaféLincoln Restaurant

SPQRBent Pine Golf Club

Gotham Bar and GrillRoy’s

John’s Island ClubEleven MadisonPark

Lucky’s LoungeRestaurant Daniel

Café BouludBoca Raton Resort

WDW Boulud Sud

Roy’s RestaurantBoca Roton Resort

Per SeTabor Road Tavern

Vineyard at Stockcross, TheSpice Market

Magnolia BakeryOmni HotelLe Cirque

Jacques Torres ChocolatesYabba Island Grill

Pazzo! Cucuna ItalianoPeninsula, The

Stein Eriksen LodgeWDW Grand Floridian

ResortNo. 9 Park

Alan Wong’s RestaurantLamb Club, The

Jean GeorgesA Voce

Vanille PastisseriePebble Beach

WDWHighlawn Pavillion

Wave, TheGannon’s

Boca Raton

FLCTNYNJNYHi

MOCOFLCANYNySCFLNYAZFLNYNYNyGAUTDCMANyNYCAFLNYHIFLNYMANYNYFLFLNYHIFLNYNJUKNYNYFl

NYNYFLFLIL

UTFL

MAHINYNYNYNYIL

CAFLNJFLHIFL

JennalynNicole

HernanStefanieThomasGustavoNathan

SeanBrian

ScarlettJacqueline

Maria Christina

KellyDrew

JenniferAustinJeniferOliviaJeffrey

CosetteCho RongCameron

AndreaHayaBria

Tae YounSteve

VictoriaJuyun

KyeongmiLue AnnMichael

NicholasSthefanie

LauraLeonelaMiguel

NicholasNursu

BenjaminKwame

DavidSarawutJin SukMelissa

MichaelAmanda

JasonBrianIssac

AllisonAubrey

BrianThomas

ChristianAndrewAndrea

MatthewChelsea

CarlyTimothy

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Culinary Arts Group #5Betsey SimpsonAmy FaederDouglas Ostrosky

Sheldon N. PayneAndrew J. YoundtStephen Petrotto

Graduation Speaker: Eliot Swartz ’79

11April 12, 2013 POT LUCK

You know that Red Lobster slogan, “Seafood Different-ly?” It’s a clever play-on-words on how potential guests will experience seafood from the aforementioned franchised es-tablishment. During a particular television commercial from Red Lobster, images of what seems to be a New England coastline appears matched with waves of seawater crashing down at the rocks. Below this scene, around a towering ivory lighthouse, fresh, clean, and most importantly, delicious sea-food is displayed. Oh, and they do not ever make a Red Lobster commercial without mentioning those addicting Cheddar Bay Biscuits. Red Lobster, here’s my money, I’m sold. I started my Seafood Identification & Fabrication course a few days before writing this article. I heard plenty of great things already about my Chef-to-be, C. Clark. He’s been teaching here at The Culinary Institute of America for many years and has built a reputation for being a stern, cutthroat roughneck with a lot of heart and tons of experience in the industry. On Day One, we got the formalities out of the way. He spoke about the expectations in his classroom and his guidelines for success in the course. I compared his monologue with his introductory philosophy on his Moodle. “Above average work translates to doing more than the ex-pected,” says Chef Clark. He continues to say that it is our duty to research and question everything that we perceive, whether written or stated as a fact. I felt moved by his speech, which seemed like a really well rehearsed choreography of hand movements, stone cold eye contact and underlying tones of fruitful knowledge. “There will be a lot of infor-

mation given throughout the course; what’s important is the retention of this information. This is what I want to leave you with.” With only a few days under my belt, I can foresee that Seafood ID & Fabrication will be a tough class. Our daily lectures include looking at characteristics of certain fish families, categories of different fin fish, origin, aquaculture, culinary use and techniques for fabrication. Oh and I’ve yet to practice my Up and Over method. There have been occasional asides during lectures when Chef Clark has told us stories. One story was about how the foodservice industry today is quite different from many years ago. “Only thing we had to learn was how to cook,” he said, while standing over the front desk in the classroom. Today, modern culinarians aspire to be the best in the industry by acquiring knowledge from all different parts of hospitality, “It was tougher physically then, working long hours…now it’s mentally tough.” This on-going rehashing of the past reminded me of a similar old man, whose conversations were just as meaning-ful as what I was hearing from Chef Clark, whether in lecture or aside stories. The main character, Santiago is a character from one of my favorite childhood novels by Ernest Heming-way, The Old Man and the Sea. He is a lone fisherman who engages in several conversations and excursions at sea with a young boy, Manolin. Various journals depict this novel as an allegory, full of symbolism of life and death, man versus nature and often a re-ligious analogy. However, one writer in particular completely hindered my own interpretation of the novel. Chaman Nahal

says that, “…the old man is not a heroic [figure.” The story] is about resignation, not victory.” Upon numerous readings I understood the mentorship between the old man and the apprentice to symbolize respect, diligence, and honest hard work that pays off in the long run. I considered Santiago the “unlucky” fisherman who never gave up on fishing every day; then only to come home with a handful of fish enough for him to eat. Nahal concludes that, “…the courage that the old man displays is not a defiance of fate or destiny; rather an assertion of the obligation that each man has to himself-it is more an act of duty.” Chef Clark consistently gives us an op-portunity not only to research the utmost and absolute truth, but to consider doing so an obligation as students. For those who personally know Chef Clark, he can come off as surly, or rather, a much more appropriate term, crabby. He may snap at a student for asking such ridiculous inquiries like, “How would you hold a two hundred and seventy-two pound halibut?” With a grimace, he would respond only by saying, “Why would you need to learn that? You need to think like a cook! What are you going to do to a halibut that size? You can’t even carry it, nonetheless hold it!” I reflect on every line Chef Clark feeds me, as if I’m caught by a hook; a Weakfish may even laugh at me. But in this way I’m able to really take in so much more of what this Old Man has to offer -bountiful knowledge. My journey through the program stands now between the inland and the vast open sea. I’ve reached the water far enough to recon-sider retreat and have the waves drift me back ashore.

The Old Man and The Sea

BY: Francis Maling, AOS Culinary

Photo by http://jwleaf.org/html/pao-mnemonic-system.html

The Culinary Institute of America is run a little differently than regular colleges and universities, so I realize that as my semester winds down, many of you are still in the middle of your courses. However, I want to give you a recap of the things that I’ve learned here so far. I started on January 3rd, 2013, and I have three finals this week, after which Culinary Fundamentals and First Year Seminar will go on just another two weeks. At this point I feel well-qualified to take a look back in retrospect at the first slip-pery, interesting, joyful, difficult, challenging, and rewarding first semester here. 1. You actually CAN teach an old dog new tricks.I admit that it wasn’t without pain, but after a bumpy first few weeks, I got into the routine of school again. I brought my old bad habit with me of cocktailing at least one day throughout the week. That didn’t last long here. I realized to do well, I was going to have to put a lot of time into study-ing, which put the kibosh on any weekday frivolity. And you know what? I have enjoyed it. I love learning. 2. I learned how to study.I was in college before. And yes, I graduated. But I never knew how to study. An “A” student throughout high school without studying, I went to college and didn’t study and coasted with A’s in things I liked and B’s in everything else. This time around, more is on the line, I’m more invested, and I’m more interested. I take a “B” as a personal affront to my intelligence, because I KNOW I can get an “A”. I just have to put the work in. And you know when you’re learning some-thing that you’re actually interested in, it makes a world of difference as to how much effort you’re willing to put into it. 3. I chose the right path this time. I’ve been taking shots in the dark at what I wanted to be when I grew up for a long time. Even though I don’t want to be a chef (I want to be a food writer) the scrambling that I do in Culinary Fundamentals to get my meals to Chef Barry on time, as well as how cranky I get with my teammates when it looks like that’s not going to happen, is pretty much all I need to know about my commitment, my determination, and my drive to succeed here. Straight A’s and perfection are my goals. I’m not always going to achieve that, but why on earth would one aim lower than that? 4. Chef Barry WILL dump the compost can out if you put incorrect items in it.

And you WILL have to clean it up. And write a paper. I can say with confidence that I wasn’t the offending disposer of the mise-en-place cup but know that our Chef instructors are serious. Mise-en-place cups don’t belong in the compost can. Nor do our rubber gloves. Try it if you dare. 5. Don’t eat the potatoes that are sent home with you to tourne.And if you do, just tell the truth. You think our chefs haven’t heard before that one of the potatoes was rotten? Of course they have. Just cop to eating it. I had mine at breakfast as hash browns with my bacon and eggs. It was delicious. I should have turned that in for a grade, now that I think about it. 6. Relationships with classmates can be tenuous.Making friends at any age is a process. At what point do you feel that you truly know someone, have been through enough things together (and worked them out), and respect and ad-mire someone enough to call them a good friend? For me, I know the answers to those questions after interacting with the person for about two years. It takes that long to truly get to know someone and understand what they’re all about. I do envy the younger girls in my class who live in the dorms and are surrounded by their peers – and who haven’t been jaded by life. As an older student, there is a sense of going it alone here and not having someone your age who gets what you’re going through – but who isn’t in your class. Because the thing is, with people in your class, whether or not you like them that day can be directly related to how much they contributed to clean-up after cooking. I would say that 75% of spats or anger in our class has to do with whether or not someone is pulling their weight during clean up, or if they’re working clean while cooking. 7. If you are a messy person, someone WILL yell at you.If you didn’t bring your mother to culinary school with you, you WILL have to clean up your own mess. Get used to it. And if you’re not used to cleaning up after yourself, get used to getting yelled at, because you will be. 8. They’re serious about the dress code here. And your hair. And jewelry.You’re not going to be the exception to the rule, so just com-ply already and stop trying to get around it. And if you feel eyes on you in the hallway or while in class, yes, someone notices that you’re not conforming. I hate to conform. But I

want to be here. So guess what? I conform. 9. No, you didn’t shrink your chef pants. Polyester doesn’t shrink.You’re gaining weight. Just because you don’t have to swipe for the desserts, doesn’t mean they’re really free. 10. The only people in the gym in the morning are us old people.You kiddos don’t seem to like to get up early unless you have class. So, I head there in the morning and work out with a gentleman who is balding and a woman with gray-ish hair. I dye my hair and Botox, so it’s the one time of day here when I actually feel hotter than all the young ‘uns. 11. I know that when I cry when I write these articles they’re coming from my heart.One of my promises to myself when I undertook writing these articles is that there had to be value in them and trans-parency about my life, otherwise people wouldn’t be able to relate. My journey to get here was difficult and painful, and while that part is actually not hard to share, the things that are hard are those things that I’m embarrassed about, that make me look bad or could cause someone to judge me. But I want to put those things out there, because they’re true, and when I do, inevitably one of my classmates says to me, “Wow, I thought I was the only one who felt that way.” So I know that if I cry when I write this, there’s a similar soul out there who will connect with something I said. So basically, that means, no, my chef pants aren’t fitting the way they did when I got here. I have been told to pin my hair up. I’ve been angry – and have been the target of some-one else’s anger during an intense Fundies moment. There are some days when I really miss my girlfriends back home. And yes, my class got in trouble for putting the wrong things in the compost can. Today, as a matter of fact. Has it all been worth it? Absolutely. It’s the most rewarding thing I’ve ever done. Is it hard? Heck, yeah. At a retail store recently, the checkout girl saw my CIA identification, and said, “Oh, you’re a CIA student?” And I proudly said, “Yes, I am.” She said, “So am I. What do you think of it??” And I said, “I love it. But it’s definitely intense. But maybe that’s because I’m an older student.” She said, “Oh, no. I went to the CIA right out of high school, and it’s intense for me. In fact, it’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done. And I’m a cancer survivor.” Enjoy the journey. You will grow here.

BY: AmY ZArichnAk, aos culinary