La Papillote 5_03

The Culinary Institute of America just held its sev-enth annual Augie Awards. The Augie, a profession-al equivalent of a James Beard, Oscar, or a Grammy, was named after Auguste Escoffier, the prominent French chef who is believed to have started the culi-nary revolution, as a whole. During the ceremony, four celebrated figures in the industry were given the Augie for certain categories: Chef Daniel Humm of Eleven Madison Park, for dedication to professional excellence and innovation; Chef Clifford Pleau, Cor-porate Executive Chef of Seasons 52 for his promo-tion of health and wellness; Chef Rick Bayless, Chef/Owner of Frontera Grill, Topolobampo, and Xoco for understanding of World Cuisines and Cultures, and Mr. Walter Robb, Co-CEO of Whole Foods Market for his commitment to sustainability and food ethics. The celebration itself was impressive, as it was held at the Grand Hyatt Hotel by Grand Central Sta-tion. After the panel discussion led by President Tim Ryan regarding each honoree’s beliefs, core values and backgrounds, the party led upstairs where sev-eral action stations were present and hors d’oeurves were passed. The action stations featured food from the honoree’s protégés such as Chef Alex Stupak of Empellon representing Chef Rick Bayless with his version of Mango and Scallop Ceviche. In addition to the protégé action stations, a sushi bar and separate tables dedi-

cated to charcuterie, wine, and cheese from the hotel were present as well. After cocktail hour, a three-course dinner was provided to the guests, with a dessert buffet to cap off

the night.These events would not be successful if it were not for the students who volunteered their time for it. The term of volunteering in this case, however, is debat-able as the students who had the privilege in going to this ceremony were nominated by their chefs in recognition for their work ethic, and other splendid intangibles. Much like the honorees who received the Augies, these students worked their way through the curriculum and earned the credit where it was deserved. As these student volunteers conversed with the honorees as well as other professionals such as Steve Ells, Chefs Thomas Keller, David Burke and Dean Fearing, each student found themselves re-in-spired and re-energized for the next chapter of their life, whatever it may be. As proof, Aaron Gonnelly, a student volunteer stated that he was, “Re-inspired, learned how to take risks and not look back on them […] truly a life changing experience.” Prestige is viewed in different ways. For the hon-orees, the prestige in the awards that they received showed that they have made a small, yet magnani-mous impact on the hospitality industry and a lot of people have perceived it well. For the students who came to the event, the prestige is present in that for one night, they were surrounded by greatness which

they certainly made the most out of. To be honored and to learn, along with great food and company needless to say was a great success.

ON CAMPUS P 4-5

FOOD & BEVERAGE P 8-9

BACK PAGE P 12CENTER SPREAD P 6-7

Volume 33, No.26

Culinary Culture P 3

May 3, 2013

Chapter 33: Gratitude “It has to be a business of cooking before personalities.”

CIA Weight Watchers! “The group of 22 students has managed to drop

an astonishing two hundred pounds, collectively, in a matter of four weeks!”

Cory Siegel Recap “Set goals and allow yourself to feel the triumph.”

All In Good Taste“We don’t want choices, we NEED them.”

Banned Meats:Endangered or Taboo?

CIA Leadership Awards: Augie Honorees

Every May celebrity chefs, food bloggers, and authors gather to be recognized for their outstanding work. The book, broadcast, and journalism awards dinner is held on May 3rd in Gotham Hall while the awards gala and reception is held May 6th in Avery Fisher Hall in New York City. It’s an exciting time that brings together all the culinary world has to offer. James Beard himself was an

advocate of preserving the unique and diverse characters and careers in the world of food. The awards were established in 1990 to honor those

who sported culinary excellence in a variety of fields. The categories consist of: Each category has a board of “individual awards com-mittees” made up of culinary professionals. The awards have been given to the likes of chefs such as Dan Barber, Thomas Keller, Gabrielle Hamilton and Cat Cora. The cookbook Modernist Cuisine (by Nathan Myhrvold) won last year for book of the year. Times writer Amanda Hess-er and Merrill Stubbs won for their website/ publication Food52. The list goes on including television shows from the likes of Food Network’s Chopped to Bizarre Foods with Andrew Zimmern. Over the years multiple CIA Alumnus’ have earned medals themselves; including Chef Grant Achatz (94’) of Alinea and Next. Chefs Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson (’93) of Tartine Bakery. Writer, Anthony Bour-dain (’78) joined others such as Chef Todd English (’82)

and Sara Moulton (’77) in the Who’s Who in Food and Beverage category. The Gala that follows the awards features the best of American Cuisine. In the past Chef Barbara Lynch of No. 9 Park and Dan Barber of Blue Hill have prepared the meals. Culinary Students are even invited to help these chefs prepare the feast (no pressure). The awards have truly captured the best of what the culinary world has to offer. James Beard would have been pleased to know that culinary traditions were being preserved and honored each and every year. By the looks of it, you (yes, you ) have the potential to achieve a JBA yourself. With hard work, dedication, and passion a large gold medal around your neck may be within in reach.

Chef Daniel Humm Chef Clifford Pleau

Chef Rick Bayless Mr. Walter Robb

BY: Dan Castro, BPS Culinary

America’s Classic BooksBroadcast Media Humanitarian Journalism

Leadership Lifetime Restaurant and Chef Restaurant design and Graphics

Preview: James Beard 2013BY: Jeremy Soloman, AOS Culinary

2LA PAPILLOTE

COMPACTLa Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of Amer-ica since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrong-doing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

FOOD REVIEW POLICYAs a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

Dan CastroJeremy SolomonDaniel JarozChef Fred BrashIrena Chalmers Nichole BryantAmy ZarichnakScott Schetselar

Diane LamJonathan PietzmanFrancis MalingSteven KolpanSangyoon KimBetsy KellyShannon Haggerty

PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Stephanie M. Kirkland

LAYOUT EDITOR Jake Hauss

ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug

EDITORIAL POLICY La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Stephanie M. Kirkland, Editor-In-Chief at [email protected] POLICY Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to [email protected] with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

CONTRIBUTORS

May 3, 2013

From the Editor’s Desk

Scan To Visit Our Library on issuu.com/lapapillote.

Dan Castro (Photographer)

[email protected]

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Alicia Yandell(Copy Editor)

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Aren’t you luck? I’m about to talk about paper; and no, not the money kind. I am a hoarder. Well not really, but I feel like I have a hoarder tendency. I mean you know those people who collect concert or movie stubs? Trolls? Baseball cards? Seashells? Spoons? Well I’m not those people, yet anyway. But there is one thing that I can’t help but hold onto; paper. Now before you feel its necessary to call TLC for an intervention let me ex-plain. Newspaper clippings, articles, recipes and anything else that I may find interesting or inspiring; I keep. Especially when it comes to things that have to do with my expanding professional career. I feel like I change my resume every five seconds but I suppose that is a good thing. I like to keep a copy of it every time it’s changed, just to see how far I’ve come and look to even further places I could go. All of my food styling and articles that were published by the San Francisco Chronicle’s Food & Wine Section are sitting in a portfolio, waiting to be flipped through. I have varied categories like travel, recipes to be tested and experimented with, and recipes that I have either finished testing or ones that are tried and true are in another. Pictures or ads too that I identify with and

routinely change on my bulletin board I also keep. Welcome to life as I know it: imagine a good couple of years worth of the types of paper I have mentioned before, and then throw in the amount of books and notebooks that I brought home with me after I completed the AOS program here at school. As soon as classes began, I knew that I wanted to preserve all of the materials I would be learning from, and anything from course guides to practical timelines to multiple, ingredient-stained recipe cards I have kept too. Be-ing able to filter through all of those, and being able to discern which documents are relevant to me now, and are going to be later poses a challenge to me. I feel like my feelings change every few months. One thing that may have meant much to me one day may differ the next. No matter the way it has influenced me, paper, or more importantly the many words that have been written on those pages have been a great factor to where, and who, I am today. With words or an idea you are able to make it happen, whether that means making a recipe into actual food, or taking a trip to that place you read about in Travel + Leisure. Things I have come across and read have had the power to make me filled with wonder, bring happiness and hope, and at the same time, I have also felt sadness, despair, and compassion. I can only hope that the next chapter if you will, of these pieces of paper, will be filled with as much inspiration. Paper is a factor even at La Papillote. Post-its fly around my cubicle with scribbles of dates and possible topics for articles. To-do lists are also a necessity. But the pages of La Papillote itself are also around me. There are stacks of previ-ous issues that are waiting to be delicately placed in folders to save for generations, well maybe not that long, more like for the time being anyway. A handwritten note, a receipt from Le Halles, or directions from my mom about washing a load of laundry as she sent me off to the CIA in my freshman year. I’m sure people are curious as to what all of the folders on my desk contain or what’s with the stacks of papers and magazines I have laying around, and I’m sure I’ve been asked once or twice, but the only thing I can manage is, “Oh, that’s just something I’m saving,” nothing more in depth or with much explanation. I guess that’s why I have the freedom to write this editorial though, almost like a blog but without any notification of how many people it’s reaching. Just sort of sending into the universe about what I think. These, are just a number of things that I feel are keepsakes that I am able to hold onto, even if relationships or circumstances in my life may change. When I have a free moment to reflect on what I have kept over the years, nostalgia creeps up on me. Even though that’s the exact reason I kept them, because they are glimpses’ of a better time, and all the good that I can ever recall happening. If you could save a piece of happiness, wouldn’t you?

Congratulations Jake Hauss! Happy Graduation and a huge thank you for all of your support, and of course the jokes and laughs that came along with it!

3May 3, 2013

BY: Daniel Jarosz, BPS Culinary

Sometimes I have to stop myself, and realize that I am at the best cooking school in the world. I have a lot of grati-tude for being here. However, it was not always like this. I had to go through some jobs that were not so pleasant. When I was starting out in hotels and was starting out in the position of tournant, meaning I covered everyone’s days off, I usually entered the kitchen with the frame of mind of what problems I could possibly be entering into.I never liked working Garde Manger because the Garde Manger Chef always gave me a hard time. Maybe it was because I was a cook right out of school or maybe I should have accepted the situation, shut up, and did my job.Then my transition came to leave hotels, mainly because there were too many covers and the absence of fine cook-ing. Straight to French restaurants I ran and used what I had learned at CIA. There too, I also ran into the problem of being unhappy at work often. I was a night cook at a small French restaurant on Madison Avenue. I found my-self always comparing my skills to the Sous Chef who was American, like me, and went to CIA.Another case of acceptance, work on your skills and get bet-ter or accept where you are.I seemed to then always work in small French restaurants where I was comfortable. In a small French restaurant Uptown, three of us in the kitchen were given the task of dealing with an owner that wanted a daily changing menu with seasonal ingredients. This was a challenging position but just what I needed at that point in my career. Watch out, New Yorkers tell you what they loved but also what recipe didn’t work too well. Interaction with the guests is very positive for cooks, remember Chefs that it is who we have to please; our motto should be the customer

is always right! Here too, a morning cook always got on my nerves and he cooked lunch and I cooked dinner service -why I could not let him do his job and keep to myself I could not tell you but we always battled. If you look at your career all of us have a personality that will get on our nerves, so it has to be a business of cooking before personalities. I wish I could tell you that I accepted the lunch cook for what he was and after that we got along but truth be told we always were bickering! So where has this landed me in my career? At this point I became an Executive Chef for a Private club in Greenwich, CT. I did learn to let cooks do their dance in the kitchen and accept them for who they were; everyone is different and has assets and liabilities.Instead of arriving at the kitchen with the thought what shoe would drop today, I saw situations in which we could grow as a unit. Above all, if I put gratitude in my attitude my days are usually pretty spectacular! “The longer I live, the more I realize the impact of attitude on life. Attitude, to me, is more important than facts. It is more important than the past, the education, the money, than circumstances, than failure, than successes, than what other people think or say or do. It is more important than appearance, giftedness or skill. It will make or break a company... a church... a home. The remarkable thing is we have a choice everyday regarding the attitude we will embrace for that day. We cannot change our past... we cannot change the fact that people will act in a certain way. We cannot change the inevitable. The only thing we can do is play on the one string we have, and that is our attitude. I am convinced that life is 10% what happens to me and 90% of how I react to it. And so it is with you... we are in charge of our Attitudes.” Charles R. Swindoll

Chapter 33: Gratitude

BY: Fred Brash, Chef Instructor

We all look forward to holidays, adults and children alike. We all anticipate feasting and most importantly, hav-ing time off. Recently, some of us had the opportunity to celebrate Easter. We all support any event if snacks are in-volved. For instance, during Saint Patrick’s Day a majority of us pretend to be Irish so we can get our hands on some corned beef and cabbage. Similarly, Easter gives us an ex-cuse to relish in silky chocolate. Once Easter arrives, April Fools is right around the corner. However, did you know there was a Polish Water Holiday the day after Easter? Also known as Dingus Day, these traditions are popular even here in the United States, Buffalo, NY to be exact, where thier is a high percecntage of people of Polish heritage. It is evident that springtime makes us feel childlike. Our bodies rush outdoors, while our minds desire entertain-ment. The shining sun and weather instantaneously paint a smile on our face. The spring vibe awakens us. So have some fun and throw water around. Polish people find it amusing to do this. In fact, they consider it a national holi-day in Poland. Each year Polish people go around soaking friends and family after Easter ends. This water free-for-all boils down to who can get the most people wet. The holiday inhabits you and brings you to life releasing the child from within. A sunny, spring day is a privilege and something worth celebrating. Polish people welcome in spring by tak-ing part in Aqua Day. On April first, Polish Water Day and April Fools ar-rived on the same day. This was an exciting day as many of us curved the truth and a number of us got drenched

by water. If you have not had the opportunity to participate in Water Day before, don’t forget to do so next year. Take into consideration these tips: grab a few buckets of water and get to work, take out the super-soaker water guns from the garage and fill up plenty of water balloons. Just make sure the water you are using is ice cold. This will produce a more dramatic and exhilarating effect. Take an ordinary day and transform it to extraordinary. Children sure like to play with their food but why don’t they play with their drinks? I am not suggesting anyone to throw sugary, sticky sodas or juices around. However, a little water never hurt anyone. The feeling of cold water running down your spine is surprising and at the same time refreshing. Instead of having a food fight, go ahead and have a water fight on this national Polish Holiday. There are no consequences involved, just sheer entertainment. I cannot guarantee nobody yelling at you, but that’s about the worst that can happen. Don’t be afraid to wet others, after all you have a reason to do so. Realize that age is only a number and at the end of the day we are all children. Most kids and those young at heart are eager to have fun. All you need to have fun is a sunny day, the mindset of a child, and plenty of water! Take into account the slogan for Nike on Aqua Day and, “Just Do It!” Many adults claim they would do anything to be young again. Do not have this mindset. You will always be young if you tell yourself that. Take the opportunity to feel young

by running around and soaking others. Aqua Day is de-signed for any age, but it was created for bliss. Never let age stop you from anything.

A Splash For Change

Photo by MyHeritage.com

4LA PAPILLOTE

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HERE ARE FIVE Reasons NOT to Enroll in a BPS Program• It’s a waste of time: I already know everything.• I already have a degree (though not in a hospitality-related field).• It costs too much to get a BPS degree.• I’ve been offered exactly the kind of job I would hope to get without having a BPS degree.• A BPS from a culinary school is not as prestigious as a BA or BS from a “real” college or university.

AND FIVE (or More) Reasons to Continue My Education Let me begin by saying that only one person knows ev-erything and that person is your mother…

New York Times columnist Thomas Friedman recently wrote: “Today there is no such thing as a high-wage, middle-skill job. Now, high-wages are paid only to those with high-skills and higher education. Every middle-class job today is being rendered obsolete or replaced faster than ever. That is, it either requires greater technological skill or can be done by more people around the world or is being made obsolete faster than ever. Tech-nology has replaced many jobs that will never come back.”Have you ever seen how fast a robot can chop an onion or make sushi?

So may I share a few thoughts?• Yes, you have gained experience but on a balance sheet, a tangible degree counts for more than experience even if you have worked for one of the Masters of the Culinary Uni-verse.• You say you already have a degree from another school. Great. Only 30% of the population has one degree: having two degrees makes you more marketable. The more skills, knowledge and experience you bring to the table, the more attractive you will be to a prospective employer.• You say a BPS degree costs too much. How much is too much? If you invest in the stock market, there may be a crash. If you invest in real estate, a hurricane can destroy your investment. If you invest in yourself, you keep the power in your own hands.• A BPS degree will almost certainly guarantee you a higher entry-level salary. Over your working life, you will earn, on average, between four and five times more money as an employee without a graduate degree. However, it’s not just what you have learned but what you can do with your knowledge.• IF you agree with the idea that knowledge is power, you may agree that the more knowledge you have, the greater will be your opportunities for success.

If you were your own best friend, (which I hope you are) would you advise you to make the decision to shut the door to your future?

BY: Irena Chalmers, Author and CIA Instructor

Who Wants aB.P.S. Degree?

Here on campus students have joined forces deter-mined to lead healthier lives. Led by Christian Carpino, a 7th term bachelor’s student, the group of 22 students has managed to drop an astonishing two hundred pounds, collectively, in a matter of four weeks! They did this by fol-lowing the Weight Watchers plan. Carpino, who had a weight loss battle of his own, lost one hundred pounds by using Weight Watchers; he was so success-ful that the weight watchers corpo-rate office hired him as a represen-tative. From there the Student Recre-ations Office Man-ager, Sue Haug, asked Carpino to incorporate his Weight Watcher experience with the lifestyle here at the CIA. He is in charge of hold-ing the meetings with the assistance of Karen Hughes, his right hand woman. The energetic pair led the group to success by encouraging members to exercise regularly and follow the point plan. For those that are unfamiliar with how the Weight Watchers program works, it is a plan that gives each per-son a number of points they can eat each day. The num-ber of points varies from person to person depending on things like weight and activity level. Every food has a dif-ferent number, listed in the Weight Watchers Points Plus Value guide. This point system is incredibly effective with

the culinary lifestyle here at the CIA because it does not limit which foods you can eat. You may eat any food you please in moderation. I think it is safe to say that all of the students here are spoiled with fine dining on a daily basis. However, as much as the foods we enjoy are good for the soul, it is most certainly not good for our waist lines. Do not fret, with

Weight Watchers you can still eat like the culinar-ians we are. That’s right; there is no need to sacrifice our beloved hol-landaise sauce or crème brulee. The Weight Watchers program accompanied with a regular fitness regimen is a goof proof way to drop the excess pounds that pack on so quickly here at the Culinary.

Christian Carpino and the rest of the Weight Watchers club extend a warm welcome to you, to join them in their battle against the CIA “Freshman 50.” Every Tuesday at 9:15 p.m. in the Student Recreation Center the group gets together to discuss food challenges and solutions here at The Culinary Institute of America. The club offers a sup-port team of people who are all working towards the same goal: to be healthy. Beach season is just around the corner, meet the Weight Watchers club and reach your goal weight just in time. It’s never too late to get fit!

Weight-ing and Watching

“...with Weight Watchers you can still eat like the culinarians

we are.”

BY: Nichole Bryant, AOS Culinary

ON CAMPUS5

May 3, 2013

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Amy Zarichnak: Tell us about your background, where you came from, what you did before, etc. Chef Justin Ward: I could give you my resume, but the resume does NOT include my early jobs such as work-ing in a greenhouse run by a strict German immigrant who fled Nazi Germany in 1942. I was ten years old and made $1.00 per hour. Gus Huhn actually paid my brother and me with a printed check with our names on it. As much as I hated sitting on a five gallon bucket hour after hour hand-picking the trailing buds off of mums leaving only the top bud for the flower, I got a great deal of satis-faction every payday with a real check reflecting my hard work. A chef’s life is not much different other than the pay. In fact, the pay’s actually a bit less now. (Insert laugh track here). You MUST love this career to feel the sense of pleasure and achievement from all it takes. If that feeling isn’t there early on, then recognize the absence and find another area in our field which will bring about an in-separable love (and sometimes hate) relationship between you and your livelihood. If, after five or so years of work-ing various aspects in our industry you have not found or developed this relationship then, and only then, consider moving into another field. This business is much like, if not more so, a personal relationship. Time is needed to allow growth of the relationship as well as finding your match. By this, I mean you might start off in catering in one establishment then move onto the hot line in another and eventually discover your true love in wine education, purchasing, or menu development. Who knew? Patience, it always pays off! Z: We’ve been learning so much here about food sources and processed food and GMO’s. What is your food philosophy? W: I could easily say the same “of the moment” state-ment that is repeated endlessly by chefs, in printed mate-rial, and on TV: “Use only the freshest ingredients, source locally, keep it simple, let the natural flavors speak for themselves, uti-

lize everything, practice farm to table and while doing so please remember to SAVE THE PLANET or you will pay the price!!! Oh, yeah, and make sure it is organic…” It sounds good. And it is good. Is that my philoso-phy? No. Now, saying that, I do know that there are many, many chefs and an equal amount of food service establishments who live by those beliefs and I am one of those, and more. But I am that person, that chef, that frugal guy who does what I do, not because it seems like the” right” thing to do or the” popular” thing or the “save the planet” thing, but because I have evolved into my own person and all of that just makes sense. I do not equate that with a philosophy. I equate that to a sense of integrity, artistry, passion, fru-gality, experience, openness, understanding, adaptability, knowledge, continued education, and business acumen. This took years, if not decades, for me to discover. And I’m sure I’m not done. Saying all of that, my philosophy is this -- Don’t pick or choose a convenient philosophy or catch phrase. Pay attention to everything and allow your own true self to decide who you are and what you believe in and how you will carry yourself forward in your profes-sion. Keep it open. Times change, the world changes, peo-ple change, and philosophies change as quickly as sound bites. Do what you want as long as you can stand behind it, you’re proud of it, you can defend it, and it hurts no one. That is my philosophy. Yours will follow. Z: Where are you originally from? W: I grew up in Cleveland, Ohio back when Cleve-land was justifiably referred to as “The Mistake on the Lake.” This is referring to the dirty, blue collar steel indus-try and port city which was Cleveland’s revenue source. It took Cleveland a couple of decades to clean the soot and caked-on residue from its surface and transform it-self into a white collar business center with a vibrant food scene (thank you, Michael Symon!) and a quasi-tourist city (thank you Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and thank you es-pecially for your recent acknowledgement and acceptance of the band RUSH as a new member). (Aside from author Amy Zarichnak: “I lived in Cleve-land and can attest to its FABULOUS current, thriving food scene. If anyone finds themselves there, there are a million places, both upscale and modest, to dig your fork into. From local delis and diners to eastern European and Russian delicacies – pierogies, anyone? -- to incredible upscale dining and farm-to-table eateries, Cleveland of-fers foodies one of the most diverse restaurants scenes of any mid-size city I’ve been in. And the people there are cosmopolitan, friendly, and progressive-thinking. Work there, visit there, but don’t miss it.”) Z: And what are your career aspirations now that you’re here? W: My aspirations being back at the CIA are really no different now than they were the first time I was here as a student in the late 80’s. As a matter of fact, my aspira-tions were, are and always will be to take advantage of every opportunity that presents itself. If the opportunity doesn’t readily present itself, then I will find it, because it’s there. Find it. Absorb your surroundings. Start with introducing yourself to everyone. Greet and talk to every person you encounter. Not just a head nod and an obliga-

tory “Good morning,” “Good afternoon,” “Good evening,” “ How’s it going,” or a “How you doing?” but an actual greeting complete with a lowering of the smart phone, eye contact, and an actual interest by listening to the person you just asked, “How’s it Going?” Faculty, staff, and stu-dents alike. At this point, my key focus is to understand the day-to-day operations that support my teaching and the best student learning to achieve the best results pos-sible. To define my aspirations would be a bit difficult but if I had a boning knife pointed at my head, I would have to say that I have a strong interest in Latin American foods, the culture, and the history. I plan on expanding my education and knowledge in this area by re-learning the Spanish language through CIA classes and utilizing our many resources (the Conrad Hilton Library, our Cui-sines of Americas chefs, our storeroom personnel, etc.) to continue my growth. Z: A couple of us have seen your videos online. Frankly, you’re a cool dude. Do you still have the motorcycle? W: I do indeed still have the bike. I bought it new in 1991. We’ve been through a lot together including my first, and hopefully last, accident last year. Although it was a very low speed accident (10 mph at best!), I spent the night in the hospital with a compound fracture of my toe (bone ripped through the flesh) and some serious road rash on the face, chest and arm. No more flip-flops while riding. Especially if you’re gonna dance with a Ford Explorer. Lesson learned. Needless to say, everything is back in working order on my body and bike. I had it shipped to NY and am looking forward to some peaceful (and safe) rides through the Hudson Valley and beyond. Z: As a mechanic’s daughter, I’m required to ask this question for the gearhead guys out there. What kind of motorcycle is it? W: It is a 1991 Honda Nighthawk. CB 750. One of the most reliable and all-purpose machines ever built. I guess it is a “classic” by date and style standards, as I get many compliments on the bike. Still waiting for The Smithso-nian to call and ask to have it donated, but I’m not holding my breath. Z: The general consensus on your videos is that you have a good videographer and editor. Who does these things for you, so students know what resources they need if they want to do the same thing? W: Hire whoever you want, but control every aspect of production from start to finish. After all, it is you that you want to be represented. No one, no one, knows you like you. Mine were done from everyone from friends (who you can hear giggling at times as I rode my motorcycle down Peachtree Street in Atlanta in full gear, including the toque… Thanks, Ted. No wonder Top Chef never called me back!) To a “professional” who dropped the camera, continued shooting for 3 hours only to inform me that the video camera was broken and collected no footage. Really!!!??...Seriously??!! On top of that, I was handed a bill for their time. My reply to that was a bit more color-ful than “Really?” and “Seriously?” It was more along the lines of…. Well, you get the idea. Z: What do you like best about teaching? W: There are two distinct benefits I get from teach-ing. The first and foremost is that I have an opportunity

Continued on the Centerspread

Up Close With Chef Justin Ward BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary

LA PAPILLOTECENTER SPREAD6

BY: Scott Schetselaar, AOS Culinary Since its inception in 1946, The Culinary Institute of America has been a place where great culinary minds could come together and pioneer innovation for our industry, and now it can continue that tradition with the construction of the Marriott Pavilion, at its Hyde Park campus. The 42,000 square foot facility is scheduled to be com-pleted by the late fall of 2013 and will house an 800 seat theater, and also a flexible-wall conference area, modeled after the Greystone Campus’ Ventura Center, on the ground floor. Students and faculty are ex-cited that they will no longer have to push larger graduations into the Student Recreation Center, or off campus and onto other venues like the Poughkeepsie Civic Center. With the new Marriott Pavilion, the institute will have the ability to host not only a larger audience, but will also have room on the new stage for approximately 200 people. Alyson Tabb, a 7th term Bach-elor’s Degree student in Baking and Pastry Arts said, “I look for-ward to seeing more pastry chefs,” and that, “It will be nice to ex-pand [the school’s] capabilities.” Margo Carey, also a 7th term Bachelor’s Degree student in Bak-ing and Pastry Arts said, “It will be nice to have a place on campus that is nicer than the [Student Rec-reation] Center or having to drive off-campus [for graduation]” Another student, Shannon Haggerty, a 6th term Bach-elor’s Degree student in Culinary Science is excited to see guest speakers in the new facility, “I’m excited to have a place where I feel like it will be easier to see what is being demon-strated,” said Haggerty. She added, “I feel like this will be a way for [chef’s] to feel like their welcomed and appreciated more so than the Student [Recreation] Center.” Chef Instructor Fred Brash said, “The benefit of the the-ater is that we will be able to bring both national and inter-national speakers here, where we couldn’t bring them before,

and we will have people from all over the world coming to see those lectures… It will be a positive thing.” Many mem-bers of the faculty are also excited that the school will now be able to offer Industry Leadership conferences. The availabil-ity of this facility will allow us to become a “Carnegie Hall for Food,” said Provost Mark Erickson. One event the building will be able to host is the Menus for Change conference which had previously been held in Cambridge, Mass. Other examples include the Greystone Campus’ Worlds of Flavor conference and the San Antonio

Campus’ Latin Flavors, American Kitchens conference; with the addition of the Marriot Pavilion, Erickson says we will be able to “Carve out our own signature,” here at Hyde Park. Marketing Director Stephen Hengst commented that, “This will allow the CIA to grow, pioneer new research, and continue to share that research in a place where we are only an hour and a half from, the largest media market in the world, New York City.” Hengst also mentioned that following the completion of the Marriott pavilion plans exist to reno-vate Heinz plaza to feature edible gardens. Chef Brash later expanded on this by saying that it is possible the gardens

will be featuring roots and herbs to be used in the school’s restaurants. The projected cost of the facility is $19 million, however many of the school’s partners have come together to help fund its new endeavor. The J. Willard and Alice Marriott Founda-tion has pledged $5 million towards the building’s construc-tion. The Marriott foundation has been a supporter of The Culinary Institute of America for almost fifty years, and was helpful with the school’s original move from New Haven, CT. EcoLab, a company dedicated to providing sanitation tech-

nology to the food and beverage industry helped with a $1.5 million dollar pledge. $3.4 million in federal funds was also ap-proved by the Hudson Valley Food and Beverage Alliance with the help of U.S. Senator Charles E. Schumer (D-NY). Senator Schumer’s press release further revealed that the Senator and the Hud-son Valley Food and Beverage Alliance are supporting the facility’s role in bol-stering the relationship between Hudson Valley farmers and bigger corporations such as Pepsi, Heineken, and Dannon. Also, $1.25 million was secured for the project by NY State Senator Steve Saland (R, I, C Poughkeepsie) from the state’s budget for state-of-the-art technology. The resounding theme of students and faculty is one of excitement and an-ticipation. Deirdre Rieutort-Louis, in his 1st term of his Associate Degree in Bak-ing and Pastry Arts said, “I’m really look-ing forward to seeing the result of it and

how it will turn out.” Mike Nothnagel, Professor of Mathematics looks forward to seeing the artwork in the building and said, “It will be good, in general, that we can get more people to see the events that we have.” And Autumn Schofield, 1st term Associate Degree student for Baking and Pastry Arts said, “I’m really excited about it and I think it will give the student body more opportunities to participate in events.” Now it’s just a matter of time before those events start taking place, and giving us greater insight into all the possibility that is here at the CIA.

to share my skills and experiences with our future food-service professionals. The satisfaction is from seeing the students improve upon a certain skill set, whether knife skills, culinary terminology, multi-tasking, writing or math and knowing that this will help them succeed as they move forward. The second thing I like best is the education I obtain from the teaching. As a teacher I am “expected” to know the answer to every query from every student at any given time. As I have come to know, this is impossible. Learn-ing NEVER ends! The students challenge me everyday with topic-related questions to which I should have an an-swer. Most times I do, other times I do not. When I have a “do not know,” I let the student know and will ask for him or her to find the answer. In addition, I will also find the answer. This creates a win, for the both the student and for me. Z: What one difference do you want to make in your student’s lives? W: I have never thought about making a “difference”

in anyone’s life let alone one difference. Influence maybe, but difference, no. I have not known them long enough to ascertain whether a difference is needed. I do, how-ever, hope to imbed a culinary and mathematical business sense into them. Today’s generation has an unnecessary fear of math and numbers in general. I have stressed the importance of the dollar into our studies, production, and tests. I have also simplified the mathematical process of costing with great results. Money makes life easier. Mak-ing money is fun. Saving money is fun. Spending money is even more fun. But to enjoy the aforementioned, one must take control of the numbers. When the numbers are controlled, the business is controlled. When the business is controlled, you are in control. When you are in control, a vacation is actually possible. Z: What is most important to you in life? W: Every aspect of my life is equally important. Career, personal time, family, relationships, art, reading, teach-ing, personal education, riding my motorcycle, movies, books, socializing, eating, working out, riding my bicycle,

golf, concerts, visiting old friends, culinary competitions, cooking contests, bowling, meeting new people, painting, sculpture, traveling, and on and on and on… In a nutshell, I would have to say that life itself is the most important focal point of life. I provide myself a balance of all that is important, which is all that I like. Therefore, I have no favorites and I find it easy to balance life. Z: You won a recipe contest, and won $25,000. Tell us about how you developed the recipe, and then, for fun, tell us what you did with the money? W: I love telling this story. It involves 10 ingredients, Tracy Morgan, no chef coat, Tyler Florence, a souped-up Jaguar, a nagging make up “artist,” a foreclosure, the two Ocean Spray Cranberry guys, front row AC/DC tickets, and no ride home… Best told in person. Z: Any parting words? W: I’ve prattled on far too long and said more than I should have. Most of what I said is true and the rest really happened.

Continued from page 5

Up Close With Chef Justin Ward

CIA’s New Marriott Pavillion

7May 3, 2013

We all came to The Culinary Institute of America to carry out our vision of success through the industry that we love. We pride ourselves in consistency, discipline and sensory details in order to reach one common goal—to establish our mark in this vast and ever growing culinary society. From deli counters to five star luxury fine dining restaurants, we can encompass all facets of food and success, the sky’s the limit. As students, all we can do now is to dream of what could be. The fact that the reality is closer than we think…well that’s when things become surreal. Corey Siegel, class of 2010, started his journey post CIA training under Chef Rosendale after joining the intense ap-prenticeship program at The Greenbrier in West Virginia. “I graduated the program in october 2013, it is a 3 year program training in 5 different categories of competition: Ice carving, buffet platter, 4 course hot food presented cold, 8 finger foods, 4.5 hour mystery basket. only 350 graduates of the program. It is the hardest thing I have done yet, and the most rewarding,” Siegel said, commenting on his expe-rience at The Greenbrier. There he was chosen to be Chef Rosendale’s Commis at the Bocuse D’or competition in Lyon, France. He was invited on campus from the Gourmet Society on April 24th, 2013 to share his experience at the competition—did I men-tion he was 22 at the time? As I approached this event, I figured, “Must be some older professional about to impart some wisdom on how to be successful...” I also had no idea what Bocuse D’or was, not to mention the stigma that I presumptuously associated it with yet another “Bocuse” word/phrase origin relating to greatness. Walking into Danny Kaye Theater, I was instantly shocked to see a young, very charming man in his chef whites, on the verge of imploding from excitement as he was feverishly ripping away slide after slide of pictures from the event, octaves rising higher after the pictures became more personal. Throughout the course of the presentation, I realized many things. Well, first I realized how big of a deal the Bocuse D’or competition is. As Siegel was training and constructing the menu for the competition, countless hours were spent building and reinforcing ideas and concepts on a creative panel that housed chefs such as Thomas Keller, Grant Achatz, and Daniel Boulud--just to name a few--brainstorming and meeting in one room; the support and constant effort from the culinary industry and the A-list groups of chefs throughout the competition thoroughly ex-plicit the weight of this competition. “The support that you get is unreal, one second you ask for something, the next [minute] someone will produce it for you,” Corey Siegel said, as he briefly describes a moment during the competi-tion where he had asked for an obscene amount of t-shirts to accommodate their support staff and was produced at the drop of a dime. As the lecture went on about his journey through training and moving on into the final round in Lyon, France after winning the Bocuse D’or USA team finals in New York, he shared feelings of his nerves and pressure during the competition as he displayed a slide showing an unfathom-able amount of camera lenses directed towards him with flashbulbs simultaneously going off one after the other--the intensity surged through the image. He then described the innovation and technology be-hind creating the dishes. He describes macgyvering a con-tinuously heated serving tray out of a portable hot plate, personally crossing and manipulating wires to serve his purpose of keeping the food warm as it traveled to the judge’s table as well as his thought process in producing his visionary “super carrot”—a carrot cored and filled with a carrot puree, souveed to perfection and encased in a spiral

of no-cook carrot noodles. As a student observing the creativity, it suddenly oc-curred to me that producing abstract visions into reality must be a nightmare to create, as the image of Siegel frus-tratingly trying methods and concepts only to find error and alas producing his expectations ran through my mind. There is a lot to be said about Siegel’s commitment to his vision and when pressed with a reaction to his dedication he explained, “You’ve got to risk it, that’s what confidence is about. Having an image in your mind and just do it! Set goals and allow yourself to feel the triumph.” The rest of the lecture went on to describe his emotions and how proud he is to have represented America and the CIA in the Bocuse D’or. His raw emotion was inspiring and his humility and uplifting candor towards our fellow students was something that we can all attribute to the moral back-bone of our school and industry. This led me to my last revelation. In three years after graduating from the CIA, Siegel had accomplished more than most people his age. Not only will he flourish from this monumental career event in his life, but we at the CIA also benefit from his accomplishments as well. Let this be a reminder that the road that lies ahead is only as vast as your mind will permit. Alumni like Siegel are a prime example of all the core principles instilled by the

CIA and our continuous journey towards excellence. “I had a vision in my head the first day I started school. I knew I was going to be back here, I knew great things were going to happen because I believed that it would,” Siegel’s ending thought as I left him encircled with questioning stu-dents.

BY: Diane Lam, AOS Culinary

Graduate Represents CIA in the Bocuse D’or

Courtesy of The Gourmet Society

8LA PAPILLOTE

BY: Jonathan Peitzman, AOS Culinary With the recent case of horse meat being found in prod-ucts advertised as beef, we students entering the food and beverage industry might ask questions, similar to those posed in our first few days of Gastronomy -- why are some meats banned or their consumption frowned upon? I per-sonally would not seek out horsemeat, because I am a prod-uct of an American upbringing and a culture where horses are thought of as companions and tools of labor. Although, I will admit that I will try it because I believe as a chef it is important to be open to try anything once (that was not il-legal or out of line with my personal moral compass). I have found there are two broad categories that banned foods can fall under, they are either endangered or they are a taboo which society has created. Endangered species are an obvious addition, at least in my opinion, to be on a banned food list. One of the heavy hitters in this category is shark “finning” which is a combina-tion of both conservation as well as humane treatment of animals. Finning is the act of fishing for sharks, removing its fin and throwing the remaining parts (the live shark) back into the ocean to die. This is for the most part done for shark fin soup, a Chinese delicacy that is a sign of wealth and may cost hundreds of dollars a bowl. The fin adds thickness to the soup because of the cartilage but it does not add any real flavor and needs the addition of other broths in order to give it flavor. In fact, sharks have a very high level of urea, which makes their meat a difficult medium to work with. The consumption of this dish is merely a sign of wealth. Let us compare it to eating a hot fudge sundae with gold flakes on the top; the flakes are the message and nothing more. Here in the United States you may consume shark products but the act of finning is illegal. The thought behind this is it would be so restrictive to bring back the entire shark for the fin that fisherman may not find it profitable. Unfortunately, many shark population numbers are so low that it may not be sufficient enough of a restriction. Whale meat in Japan, Chilean sea bass, redfish, and wild beluga caviar are other over harvested items that have creat-ed their own precedence. In terms of overfishing, there are many items on menus around the country that are part of a growing list of species with rapidly diminishing numbers without much information available. There is an interest-

ing Ted talk by Casson Trenor about sustainable sushi that touches on many of these issues. His own personal experi-ence may create some helpful starting points for thought on what it is we will stand for and support in our purchasing and serving in our restaurants as well as what efforts we need to make to know where it is that our food comes from. A food taboo, on the other hand, is a religious or cultural

creation and exists in nearly all cultures across the globe. We will not touch on religious restrictions in this article but if you are interested in knowing about what restrictions a customer may have, there is an interesting article at CNN’s Eatocracy titled, “Clarified: Religious dietary restrictions.” The cultural food taboo is a fabricated restriction. You will not die from eating horsemeat, or dog meat, both of which are consumed in other parts of the world, but you will most definitely cause uproar in this country if you were to serve them. As I do not have a degree in gastronomy or anthropology, as well as the limited space here, I cannot possibly explain the origins of food taboos but we can take a quick look at some of the foods that are considered “off limits” that may or may not necessarily be illegal to sell but may draw some unwanted societal attention. We are an es-pecially interesting case, as this country is an amalgam of so many different cultures that may expose us to new items that dance between the exotic and taboo. Items that we will not consume but are consumed in other parts of the world are dogs, horses, cats, primates, and rodents. An anonymous blogger quoted on Eatocracy explained it in the best way that I have found, “The difference is humans have a social

contract with horses, much the same way we do with cats and dogs. Horses serve a purpose in our lives: they are com-panions and provide transportation. Implicit in that social contract is not to eat them. In other words: we do not eat our friends.” Our meat industry practices got us into a good deal of issues in the past few decades where many countries would not purchase our meat because of the use of growth hor-mones. Today apparently there are not that many countries that will not import US meat products but there has been a recent ban in Russia because of a drug residue that has been found on some items. Ractopamine, a drug that increases growth and lean tissue, was found in several shipments and the resultant threat to ban imports has caused an interest-ing mud-slinging competition between both American and Russian politicians and meat manufacturing producers. The ban also has to do with Russia’s recent joining of the World Trade Organization who have had issues with American meat in the past. The situation brings one’s attention to how big a business meat is in this global market and how science, industry, and politics have made purchasing a little more complicated. We therefore have meat we cannot eat because we have eaten too much of it (endangered), species we do not eat because they are our friends (taboos), and questions over the standards we work by in our own American meat industry. These issues will be important to anyone who wants to own a restaurant, run a kitchen, or work in this industry. We will need to know if the items we are purchasing are being depleted to dangerous levels and if we want to do anything about it as well as our customers tastes. We will also need to be very aware of where our meat comes from. In my opinion, knowing a good butcher who knows exactly where he got his meat from is imperative. The issue of purchasing seafood gets a little more complicated but one must start making decisions of the rules they want to work by before they begin their careers. There is also a change in the cus-tomer body where they want to know where you obtained everything on your menu and the last answer you want to give a customer is, “I don’t know.” Luckily, it is an interest-ing and provocative topic that will be ever changing, as is the nature of this industry.

Banned Meats: Endangered or Taboo?

Many of us here at the CIA are tough critics when it comes to food. Admit it. Once you plop down your plastic tray, you begin to analyze, compare, and evaluate your dish. “This food sucks,” is a common expression to the slightest bit of discontent. For some students, few kitchens are forgiv-ing when this happens; K-16 is not one of them. Since my start date in November, I’ve realized that a lot of students have had a handful of shared experiences from K-16 (of-ten dubbed K-Sucksteen.) Some are good, but countless of them are atrocious. “Wait times in the morning are a killer,” “They overcooked my burger and my buns are cold,” or my favorite “Well it’s K-16, what do you expect?” Like a mon-ster, K-16 is often misunderstood, rarely seen, and easily avoidable. But here are things to consider: K-16 serves the most meals in any kitchen on campus on a daily basis. It is part of the Culinary Program prior to externship where stu-dents are exposed to fast-paced and extremely high volume cookery. On Day 1 of the previous block, K-16 served over 300 covers, double the amount of a great night of service at Bocuse. K-16 offers a menu of American/Diner/Comfort Food for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with a varying approach depending on the chef. I spoke with Chefs Schawaroch and DelleRose about the K-16 epidemic and why they think students are so harsh when it comes to critiquing food from their kitchen. As instructors, they share a similar outlook:

although this is a fast-paced environment, it is first a learn-ing environment. I mean all kitchens on campus are rela-tively the same learning environment, but how come K-16 gets the bad end of the stick? Chef Schawaroch advises students to “Take pride in what you do.” Some students may “check out” mentally because K-16 is the last kitchen Culinary students enter prior to externship. But that’s not why K-16 “sucks.” Michael Brothers, a former K-16 MIT, tells me it’s all about feedback. “[Students] need to give feedback about the dishes. Also [they] need to understand the difference between lunch and dinner service.” Students often associate a previous suffering experience with the next, almost automatically labeling K-16 a certain way. In-terestingly, the students who often give each other feedback about certain food experiences in kitchens are from the same stream or entry date. Some students who are coming from a less knowledgeable food background may not think so much about the quality of food that comes from K-16, while industry-seasoned students may compare a humble dish to many of their fabulous meals outside campus. One Bachelor student I spoke with remembered his first K-16 ex-perience. “I’m here at the CIA. I’m having Eggs Benedict. I’m so happy,” he says. So is there more to K-16 than just burgers and fries? Over the last few weeks, K-16 has drastically changed up some menu offerings. Chef DelleRose emphasizes on the

“elevated” K-16 menu by offering more than just comfort-ing and familiar American diner fare like a salmon dish, cooked skin on with a delightful crisp and great flavor. I recall a wonderful Asian salad I had last time in K-16, with buckwheat noodles, grilled chicken breasts and soy dress-ing. “We’re trying to develop a menu that will transition into the new development of the upcoming expansion in the Student Recreation Center,” says Chef DelleRose. With this exciting news, there are promising changes coming with The K-16 Monster, possibly turning that K-Sucksteen into K-Success. With this I invite you to a game of word association. Ready? What comes to mind when “K-16” is mentioned? Did you squirm with a sour face for disgust? Did you sheep-ishly shrug your shoulders? Did you recollect upon that first time you had food in K-16 when it was really good? Lastly, why did you respond the way you did? Also, consider your-self in the shoes of a student from K-16. Funny enough, last time I went into the kitchen for breakfast, they wrote on the menu board “Please be kind, we’ve been up since 1 am.” It is imperative that we create an open communica-tion not just with our own chef-instructors, but with other students and other instructors in all kitchens. Hopefully we can all remember that everything on campus is a learning experience.

Misfit K16?BY: Francis Maling, AOS Culinary

FOOD & BEVERAGE 9May 3, 2013

BY: Steven Kolpan, CIA Professor New World wines are mostly named for their grape type: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, etc., while many Old World wines are named for their place: Bordeaux, Champagne, Barolo, Rioja, etc. Today’s wine market is heavily tilted towards grape names. Varietal labels adorn bottles of wine produced in the United States, Aus-tralia, Chile, Argentina, and New Zealand, among many other wine-producing nations. Wine consumers around the world are hooked on varietal labels, and the reason for our addiction is easy to understand. Purchasing and enjoying a 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon is for most of us a much simpler exercise than buying a 2005 Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte from the Pessac-Leognan subregion of Bordeaux. The irony in the above example is that the Napa Val-ley Cab must – by law – contain a minimum of 75% Cab-ernet Sauvignon grapes, and 85% of those grapes had to be harvested from vineyards in the Napa Valley, while the Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte is – by tradition - mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (anywhere from 50% to 85% de-pending on vintage year conditions in the vineyard), but 100% of the grapes must have been harvested in Château Smith-Haut-Lafitte’s own vineyards, all of which must be located in the Pessac-Leognan subregion of Bordeaux. In both wines the Cabernet Sauvignon is balanced with ju-dicious percentages of wines made from Merlot, Caber-net Franc, and sometimes Malbec and a few other minor red varietals. The interesting thing about the Smith-Haut-Lafitte red wine is that it is one of about 1,200 wine estates in Bordeaux, and all of these châteaux will come up with different blends of grapes in their wines. More Cabernet in some, much more Merlot in others, depending on the customs and vintage conditions in their subregions. Per-centage of grape types will change from year to year, as the winemakers try to coax the best possible wines from their vines. Let’s return to the USA. If a winemaker wants to produce a wine that emulates a “Bordeaux Blend” - let’s say 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, and 5% Cabernet Franc – what is he or she going to call it? Since it’s not 75% of any particular grape varietal, the wine can’t be called by the name of a grape, and in fact US wine laws dictate that it be called simply “Red Wine” or “Red Table Wine.” Not too sexy. About 25 years ago, some frustrated Napa Valley winemak-

ers who wanted to produce Bordeaux-style blended wines got together to address this issue. Agustin Huneeus of Fran-ciscan Winery, Mitch Cosentino of Cosentino Winery and Julie Garvey of Flora Springs Winery knew that they couldn’t call the wines “Bordeaux Blend,” as the French would go crazy and the US government agency that approves labels

(at the time, the BATF), wouldn’t go for it. Besides, these winemakers and others that they attracted wanted to create a uniquely American name for their Old World/New World winemaking concept. They formed a loosely-knit alliance of about 20 members and in 1988 announced a contest to give their “concept” wines a name. The group received more than 6,000 entries, but chose one submitted by a young Califor-

nian, Neil Edgar, who came up with the name, “Meritage.” Neil’s prize would be two bottles of the first ten vintages of each Meritage Alliance member’s wine. The first Meritage™ wine was produced by Mitch Cosentino: the 1986 vintage of “The Poet.” Today, under the dynamic leadership of Kim Stare Wallace of Dry Creek

Vineyard in Sonoma, there are more than 200 Meritage™ (rhymes with “heritage”) members, most of them in Cali-fornia, but with member wineries in 20 states, including New York State, New Jersey, Arizona, Colorado, Michi-gan, New Mexico, and Virginia, and even members from Argentina, Australia, Canada, Mexico, and Israel (for a full list of Meritage Alliance members go to www.meri-tagewine.org). In 2013 the Meritage Alliance celebrated its 25th anniversary. So, what constitutes a Meritage™ wine? First of all, the wine must be made from a blend of at least two tra-ditional Bordeaux grapes – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot for reds, Sau-vignon Blanc and Semillon for whites (more than 80% of Meritage™ wines are red). Second, no varietal can exceed 90% of the blend. This is probably why some of the most famous “Bordeaux blend” wines – Opus One, Rubicon, Insignia, etc. are not members of the Meritage™ group, as these wines often exceed 90% Cabernet Sauvignon. I can’t make a blanket statement about what a “typi-cal” Meritage™ wine tastes like, because there is no typical Meritage™ wine. First of all, a wine made from grapes grown in Colorado or Virginia or Michigan is sure to taste different from a wine made from grapes grown in the Napa Valley. Also, some of the wines are more Merlot that Cabernet, some are more Cab than Merlot. Some wines are released in their youth, some are aged for years in barrel and bottle before release. What I can say about the red wines is that they are uniformly full-bodied wines, best served with hearty foods, and that all of the wines I tasted are capable of aging, some of them for a very long time. The whites – white Meritage™ wines never really caught on probably due to the lack of Chardonnay in the

blend – are very attractive: medium-bodied, juicy but dry. Red Meritage™ wines produced in states other than California tend to be a bit lighter than their Golden State counterparts, often lower in alcohol, and less oak-driven. Al-though their lack of drama might not blow away wine writers and critics who aretasting the wines on their own, these are attractive wines when paired with food.

Meritage Heritage

The history of tea is both vast and the origins are dif-ferent to mark. Fables and stories passed down through tradition is what keeps the terroir of traditional teas mystique and rare. Upon my visit to Lijiang, China, I was blessed to be told an enchanting story of the origin of a fine tea, to which the taste remarkably outweighs the reputation.

Name : Hong Tai ChangType of Tea: Aged Pu-Erh TeaPeriod of Production : 1992-1995Origin : Lijiang, Yunnan Province, China.

Pu-erh tea is a type of green tea made in the region of Yunnan Province usually in the form of pressed disk or brick. I was told that this specific tea from this region of China was made by a single name-less man who provided tea for the whole area. His tea was noteworthy and taste was distinct to the region, which has earthy notes and a slight sweetness from the aging.

Since his passing, there are only a few disks of tea leaves from his last harvest, one of which I am fortunate enough to own and share. Initially its taste is very harsh, tannin like. Caffine

content also is very high initially but as it ages it mel-lows out. One of the benefits of this tea is that it can be steeped multiple times, with each steep taking on a new aspect per cup .

If the tea itself is high in quality, it may age more than 100 years depending on the storing condition. As pu-erh tea ages, it will develop its distinc-tive reddish brown color along with its earthy/leathery aroma. With prolonged aging (over 10~20 years) the harshness is removed and smooth earthy quality of the tea is revealed. When you are drinking this aged tea, first crumble the tea disk into individual leaves and place it in a tea pot. Wet the teapot with boiling water and pour boiling water in to the pot. Dis-card the first infusion because it tends to be too harsh. Starting from the second brew, you may enjoy the unique earthiness of the pu-erh tea.

Savoring the Last CupCourtesy of Sangyoon Kim

BY: Sangyoon Kim, BPS Culinary

It is rare for someone in the hospitality industry to have been a chef as well as a sommelier. Yet Stephen Asprinio did it at the age of 22, when he took over two wine programs at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas, NV and previously oversaw a fine-dining kitchen at Cucina Nostalgia in Boca Raton, FL under the direction of chefs Anthony and Lisa Damiano. He is also the youngest person ever to pass the United States Sommelier Association’s certificate examination, and was one of the youngest to pass the Court of Master Sommeliers certificate course. Chef Aspirinio now runs S. A. Hospitality, his New York City-based hospitality firm, and in 2013 will be launching Pizza Vinoteca, a cutting-edge restaurant concept with loca-tions planned in New York City and Arlington, VA. He is also finishing work on his book, Eat & Drink Until You Die. Stephen Asprinio has worked for a number of great chefs in some of the country’s top restaurants, including Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto in New York City and Michael Mina ’89 at NobHill in the MGM Grand Hotel & Casino, where he was wine director. At the age of 26, he opened Forté di Asprinio in Palm Beach County, FL, which received numer-ous accolades and was named “One of the Top 10 Best New Restaurants in the United States” by Gayot. At 24, Chef Aspirinio captured national fame as a cheft-estant on the first season of the award-winning Top Chef. He

later made appearances in ensuing seasons of the series, in-cluding the 4-Star All-Star Challenge, which he won, securing $20,000 to be donated to the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation. In 2010, he was named a Top Chef All-Star and competed against the best of the best from seasons past. Chef Aspirinio holds two degrees: one from The Culinary Institute of America, and the other from Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration (SHA). While at the CIA, he assisted the college’s Culinary Olympic team and was a med-alist in the student cooking competition at the International Hotel, Motel & Restaurant Show in New York City in 2000. A strong supporter of the CIA, Chef Asprinio is a member of the college’s Alumni Council and Society of Fellows. And as a proud graduate of both the CIA and Cornell, he has played a role in the SHA/CIA Alliance collaborative degree program since its inception, and has helped raised money for student scholarships as part of the CIA-Cornell Annual Golf Classic, for which he was master of ceremonies the past two years. Dedicated to the world of food and wine, Stephen Asprin-io was named one of the Top 100 Power Players by Florida International for his contributions to the hospitality indus-try. He was also selected to speak at the International Chef’s Congress on the subject of alternative methods for food and wine pairing.

LA PAPILLOTE10

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Welcome BackRetuRning exteRns!

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11May 3, 2013 POT LUCK

BY: Betsy Kelly, BPS Baking & Pastry The ‘World’s Premier’ teaches us the importance of mise en place, creating a game plan, and fostering an innate love of food. On March 26 Lodge and Townhouse RA’s: Kim Tremblay, John Schlichting, and I travelled to Newburgh to visit Mount St. Mary College to do a demo on dorm room cooking for the RA’s of the college and teach them about the basic principles of the CIA. Conducting the demo proved to be a bit of chal-lenge, but challenges aside it proved to be a great deal of fun. With only a microwave to cook in -staying true to the typi-cal dorm room- and using only a few perishable items, the RAs created items like: “Mexi-melts” (toasted whole wheat bread with refried beans, fresh salsa, and cheese); Pumpkin Spice Oatmeal; and Cranberry Almond Chocolate Bark; and Meatloaf in a Mug. The food was well received by the hungry crowd, all of who were also very curious to learn about our school and our curriculum. However, they were very disap-pointed to learn the scary truth about artificial sweeteners and margarine. The demo was a big success and it seemed like our peers at Mount St. Mary learned a great deal and left with a full belly- hospitality at its finest. Who knew that basic dorm cooking could bring so many together?

Piles of people poured into line as the rain drizzled onto the pavement. The wind began to pick up blowing the girl’s hair into the wind as the dark clouds began to roll in. To the RAs of Angell Hall and Marist College the cold atmosphere was only a small obstacle compared to the never ending line of students awaiting a warm meal. Not even the weather could stop the determination of the dedicated RAs to pro-vide Marist students with a meal worth standing in the cold for. As the RAs served decadent portions of lavish small bits, the smiles of the faces of the Marist community grew and the sun soon began to break through. As it did, the bar-rier of students from two opposing colleges, who have not been a united front for years, broke. For years each college has had their own ideas about each other; it was not until the RAs from The Culinary Institute of America stepped foot on Marist ground did they begin to understand. They began to understand the community that was created at Marist Col-lege and the culture that is present. To help break this long standing barrier the culinary brought their passion and love in life, food. To promote a fun atmosphere, the event was then filled with a convivial challenge. Seven competitors lined up along-side a rectangular table with one objective in mind, to win. As the start signal went off each competitor dove into their gooey colorful tin of fun. As Marist RAs stood next to CIA RAs they slurped, gulped and chewed their way through the jello eating contest. It was at test of drive, requiring speed and en-

durance. In the end the debatable winning call went towards Marist, but the CIA cannot wait to face the fearless Marist RAs in another competition of strengths. The RAs then enjoyed the afternoon with fellow students and welcomed faces from the Marist community. Inspired by different countries around the world, to promote diversity between the two colleges and to introduce the CIA’s diverse background, eight dishes were created. The afternoon was filled with dishes like three kinds of Japanese rice rolls, mini gyro with braised lamb, pierogies, polenta with sun dried tomatoes and balsamic sauce, chicken tikka masala, fresh mozzarella bruschetta crostini, macaroons and crème puffs. The countries represented were Japan, Poland, Northern and Southern Italy, South Korea, Greece, India and France. Many comments from the students were, “Wow! This is so not our cafeteria food!”, “Where did you buy these?” And the winning comment, “You are our new best friends.” In the end, the Diversity event, “Tastes around the World,” was a success with 270 people of the Marist community who came out to experience the food that the CIA created along with the decorations and jello eating contest that Marist ran. Not only was the barrier broken between two colleges but a small family was created, a family full of smiles and good times to come. The CIA would like to thank the Marist RA family and community for allowing us to into your homes and inviting us to cook and serve you our food.

BY: Shannon Haggerty, AOS Culinary

BY: Francis Maling, AOS Culinary

BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary

I am my mother’s daughter. I’m obedient, I fear authority, and I’m a people pleaser, for the most part. These things an-noy me about my mother and they annoy me about myself. I hate being such a pantywaist. But there comes a time when you have to speak up. Any-one who knows me knows that I love this school. I love this school! I love the faculty and staff and how accommodating they are. I love the school spirit, how everyone believes that this is the best culinary school in the world and everyone – administration, and students – work hard to make it so. I love the resources that this school provides for success, and how you can connect with preeminent employers without even set-ting foot off of this campus. I love how the staff and faculty care about every aspect of our education and growth, includ-ing their commitment to our health and wellness and our emo-tional well-being, as well as our learning. You sense a “but” coming, don’t you? BUT, there are a few things recently that have made me stop and go, “Hmmm… this isn’t working for me.” Upon chatting with a few other students my age, it’s not working for them, either. I think it’s time that the CIA takes a good, hard look at the needs of its adult students, because they vary vastly from the needs of the younger students. In my ongoing class of 16 students (not my enrolled class of 80, I don’t know their demographics quite as well and cannot speak for them), we have six students over the age of 25, four of which live off-campus. That’s 38% of our class who are non-traditional adult students who had set, ingrained lives before coming here. Four of those adults (25% of our class) commute here, which means our lives do not revolve around campus,

they revolve around our households, outside jobs, significant others, pets, and other obligations. The problem is, those lives and needs are virtually ignored, and are in fact disregarded in the structure of the system that is The Culinary Institute of America. It’s not acceptable. The CIA is not run like a regular college or university as many of you well know. There is not a spring semester and a fall semester, along with a summer semester. Here, we have rolling admissions every three weeks. I have been here since January 3rd and I still couldn’t tell you what a block is or when anyone else’s semesters begins or ends, I only know that my new semester started yesterday. This is where my problem lies: regular colleges and universities allow you to pick what classes you are taking, and when you are taking them. Here, we are dictated to. You are taking THIS class at THIS time. I don’t mind adhering to a set curriculum but I, as well as my adult classmates, NEED choices as to WHEN we are taking the classes. The operative word in that sentence is NEED. We don’t want choices, we NEED them. For example, here is my class schedule: Meat ID & Fab – 6:30am – 9:30am, M – F. College Writing, 5:30pm – 7:05pm, T & W. Intro to Management, 5:30pm – 7:05pm, R & F. Nice eight hour break between classes. I’m glad I only live two miles away. But what about my classmates who live 45 minutes away? Are they supposed to go home and come back? Find a secluded couch on campus on which to snooze? And what about my classmates who are trying to work dinner shifts at restaurants to make a living? They can’t work the most lucrative shift during the week, including Fridays. What about me? I need to find a job and I’m trying to set up a family din-

ner, as a prelude to externship, for the Saveur magazine staff in New York City and need the entire day to do so, without being penalized for missing a class. What about another (adult) classmate of mine, who tested out of College Writing (which I am about to do also) who now has two whole classes for the next two blocks, and could be filling in his time with a different class to ensure that he is working hard towards his education. Instead, he gets to wan-der around campus, kick rocks, stare at the sky, play computer games, and otherwise be unproductive. This is not a good use of our time and our tuition money. Would anyone in administration accept a work schedule such as this – and PAY to accept it? I’ll answer that for you – no, you wouldn’t. Not without kicking and screaming, at least. Let me say it again: It’s unacceptable. This is my time and my money. This is not working for me or multiple class-mates. We know that earlier Intro to Management classes ex-ist. We know there are earlier writing classes. Who decided that the best schedule for our group is to space our classes out 8 hours apart, so that our days begin at roughly 4:45am when our feet touch the floor when we get out of bed in the morn-ing, and we aren’t able to get home for the day to get in our jammies and bunny slippers until after our second class ends at 7:05pm? This is not working for me. It’s not working for my classmates. We were given our schedules last Tuesday, that’s a week before our semesters started and they came into effect. That’s not enough notice, and not enough time to change our sched-ules if need be. I know that several of my classmates had to jockey work schedules around, ask for time off, not fulfill work obligations, or hurriedly come late to class because they were coming from work. I worked the entire way through college the first time. I’d group my classes all in the morning, or all on certain days, so I had complete days off to work. The CIA has grown so much that it needs to allow its students that flexibility. A regular col-lege semester or quarter schedule would be ideal, with many sections of the same class from which to choose. When I first inquired about enrollment in 2009, one of the first things I asked about was the class schedules because I needed to work and support myself while going to school. Do you know what I was told? “Well, the school frowns on students working the first semester, even the first year. We like you to focus on your courses.” I don’t know ONE adult student whose reality looks anything like this. This is completely unrealistic on the part of the school if they think they are going to attract and retain adult students with this stance. This is exactly the reason that I applied in 2009 and didn’t make it here until 2013 – four years later. I couldn’t make it happen – and only did based on an extraordinary set of circumstances. And unless scheduling changes, I don’t know how I’m going to be able to stay here. I have spoken to Lakeysha Evans, Manager of Registration, and Genesse Pittman-Higgs, who also works in registration. On my way in to see them, I ran into another adult student, as frazzled and frustrated as I am, who was there to change his schedule. We spoke for a few minutes, and he shook his head and said, “This is terrible. Things have to change here.” Upon speaking to Ms. Evans and Ms. Pittman-Higgs, they ex-plained that coming to them about 3 weeks before registration and explaining your needs would help get adult students into the classes that fit their schedule. They couldn’t have been more helpful because they feel our pain. This isn’t the first time they’ve heard this. Jockeying students around constantly after registration isn’t an efficient use of their time either. They would also prefer that we get the class times that we need on the first try as well. I love this school. I want to stay; I want this to be my alma mater, not Penn State, where I received my first degree. I never put my Penn State degree on my wall. I will frame this degree and proudly hang it in my living room, office, bedroom, or bathroom, whatever is appropriate. I am so committed to this school and my education that it brings me to tears on a regular basis because I am so grateful to be here. However, the school needs to be equally committed to students like me and my fel-low classmates, who need flexibility in scheduling. We need to maximize our time here and not take just two classes a block/semester. We need a good, hard look taken at changes that make sense for us, and they need to occur quickly. Our education depends on it.