BELLE Magazine - Issue 1

BELLEWINTER

IssUE

WINTER 09/10 // ISSUE 01 // FREE

from the Winter 09/10 showsCOVERAGE OF THE MOST STRIKING BEAUTY TRENDS

in New York, London, Milan and Paris

BOLD BEAUTy

KATE DE CAsTELbAJAC

ThE ONLyPREDICTAbLE

ThING AbOUT

ChANGE IN

BEAUTyIs CHANGE

ItsELf.

“

”

BELLEThe Winter Issue 09/10

EDITOR IN CHIEFKirsty Armstrong

CREATIVE DIRECTION & DESIGNKirsty Armstrong

PHOTOGRAPHYMel Bagshaw, Marta Ovod, Christine Smith, Alan Myers

All text by Kirsty Armstrong.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSBELLE would like to thank: Annabel Meggeson, Catherine Turner, Jane de Teliga, Mel Bagshaw, Marta Ovod, Anu Pesonen, Christine Smith, Alan Myers, Ruth Wiles, Jodi Isaacs, Caroline Donnelly, Luch Hough, Sarah Larsen, Ashley Simmons, Carly Auld, Shinya Fukami, Atsushi Ninomiya, Naeriva Kaw, Andrew Tucker and all who helped with the issue.

Special thanks to: Christine & Malcolm Armstrong for their continued love, support and encouragement.

WEBSITEhttp://atouchofgloss.blogspot.com

COPYRIGHTReproduction of whole or part of this magazine, without permission, is strictly forbidden.

Printed in Great Britain by Headley Brothers Ltd.

22 Q&A

EVERY ISSUE

A one-to-one with M.A.C Pro Team Senior Artist, Caroline Donnelly.

THE WINTER IssUE 09/10

5 EDITOR’S LETTER6 CONTRIBUTORS

BEAUTY NEWS7

9 CATWALK BEAUTY TRENDS

15 CATWALK HAIR TRENDS

18 TOP SHOWS

24 ALL THAT GLITTERS

30 SMOKE & MIRRORS

48 RUNWAY TO REALITY

51 CHANGING FACES

EVERY ISSUE

EVERY ISSUE

EVERY ISSUE

EVERY ISSUE

INTERVIEW

SHOOT

SHOOT

READER MAKEOVER

EVERY ISSUE

!e major beauty news hitting the headlines this month.

Coverage of wearable winter trends from the A/W 09 catwalks.

Some of winter’s hottest hair styles, straight from the catwalks.

Memorable shows from New York, London, Milan and Paris.

One lucky reader gets a makeover as we recreate the D Squared A/W 09 look.

Five models, 91 looks.

Photography Christine Smith, Makeup & Hair Kirsty Armstrong

36 READ MY LIPSSHOOT

Photography Mel Bagshaw & Marta Ovod, Makeup Anu Pesonan, Hair Atsushi Ninomiya, Styling Kirsty Armstrong

Photography Mel Bagshaw & Marta Ovod, Makeup Anu Pesonan, Hair Shinya Fukami, Styling Kirsty Armstrong

FEATURE

58 HEALTH

60 FRAGRANCE

62 MEMOIR

FEATUREDesigner Mark Fast’s Big Fashion Statement.

A guide to finding your signature scent.FEATURE

A fragrant journey through time.

Photography Alan Myers, Makeup Kirsty Armstrong

BELLE

FEATURE

36

BELLEWINTER

IssUE

WINTER 09/10 // ISSUE 01 // FREE

from the Winter 09/10 showsCOVERAGE OF THE MOST STRIKING BEAUTY TRENDS

in New York, London, Milan and Paris

BOLD BEAUTy

40 FIFTIES GLAMOURFEATURE

44 PLASTIC FANTASTICFEATURE

How to get that gorgeous 1950s look.

Fifty years of unapologetic glamour for Barbie, the world’s favourite fashion doll.

16

12

44

30

COVE

R IM

AGE:

Cour

tesy

of H

enne

s & M

aurit

z

CREATIVE DIRECTION: All graphic design by Kirsty Armstrong

EDITOR’S LETTER

FROM TOP,:Contouring at BLUMARINE on page 9. Our star model, Natasha Poly, featured in ‘Changing Faces’ on page 51. Two models wearing the crimped hair trend backstage at the KARL LAGERFELD show (page 15).

Kirsty ArmstrongEditor

I’d like to welcome you to the very first issue of BELLE. I’d also like to believe that the reason you picked up this magazine was a) because the cover looked enticing and b) because it was a delightful looking free and, one might say, glossy magazine, but above all else, I’m hoping that you chose to pick up this magazine because you adore wearing MAKEUP. Not just any old products either, we’re talking the GOOD stu!. If I’m right then we’re o! to a good start. We’ve broken the ice, so to speak. Now let’s get down to the nitty gritty... Let me let you into a little secret. During a lifetime, there are few things a person can say they are truly PASSIONATE about. Granted there are things we like, things we enjoy and even things we’d go as far to say we love. "en, there are those things that we simply couldn’t live without. "e pretty little products that rock our world. At BELLE, these are the things we are PASSIONATE about. Some might call it an obsession... For us, our passion lies in makeup. It is the excitement backstage at a Paris fashion show as a persona is created through the carefully constructed makeup look, that gets our pulse going. We sit watching the eagerly anticipated shows of DOLCE & GABBANA, CHRISTIAN DIOR, GIORGIO ARMANI and CHANEL and we find our eyes wander over the fabulous fashion creations to the FACE. As much as we love fashion, what we’re really interested in is the exact shade of berry we will be wearing on our lips next season, or the particular depth of lilac we’ll be donning on our eyes. "is obession with makeup is the philosophy behind this magazine. Here at BELLE we believe it’s about time that someone provided all of you knowledgeable makeup fans with a publication dedicated to FASHION MAKEUP. One which will not insult your intelligence by giving you a step-by-step guide of how to apply mascara, but one that will strive to give you in-depth coverage from global fashion shows with a focus purely on the MAKEUP TRENDS. With this in mind, we begin our journey in the Winter 2009 season. Sit back. Relax. Enjoy. As we say our goodbyes to the Noughties, put your best FACE forward and enter 2010...

5

Having gained her training in Specialist Makeup and Fine Art, Anu now works in all areas of makeup including fashion, editorial, theatrical and film and TV. With an interest in drawing, Anu soon found that the human face was her preferred canvas. Having a keen eye for detail, her fascination extended to body painting and an element of fantasy and fashion is a strong theme in her work. Q: Beauty is...“a creation.”

"e British portrait photographer originates from the North East of England and specialises in fashion photography. He enjoys experimenting with movement and diversity in images, which he applied to the Reader Makeover shoot in this issue. One of his biggest interests in photography stems from his fascination with Photoshop and the idea of transforming an image from a photograph into a piece of art.Q: Beauty is...“endless.”

ALAN MyERs

BELLETHE WINTER IssUE 09/10

As a photographic artist living and working in London, Marta’s interest in the arts stems from an early age. Her passion for photography began while developing black and white images with her father as a young girl. Finding herself with a creative interest in patterns and objects, soon presented Marta with the desire to photograph these articles. Marta graduated from the University of Westminster with a degree in Photography, before she went on to study towards a Masters in Fashion Photography at the London College of Fashion. Combining conceptual traditions along with impulsive sensibility, her photographs are both colourful and framed with precision.Q: Beauty is… “a performance.”

"e British photographer has a long standing history in the Arts. After studying towards a degree in Fine Art at Central Saint Martins, Mel then went on to study photography at the University of Westminster. He later graduated from the London College of Fashion with a Masters in Fashion Photography. During Mel’s career he has worked as a Freelance Illustrator for a large number of editorial magazines and major advertising agencies. He has also devised and curated exhibitions for the British Film Institute, "e Victoria and Albert Museum and "e Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art. Mel now works with an edgy fashion style. Drawing inspiration from areas such as film and reportage photography, he focuses on merging colour and concept together to produce striking photographic results.

As a graduate of Northumbria University’s degree in Contemporary Photographic Practice, Christine is currently working for an experienced commercial and lifestyle photographic studio. Specialising in fashion and lifestyle photgraphy, Christine’s long term goal is to continue the areas of practice investigated during education, and produce Fine Art photographic works, which are not only beautiful and ethereal, but provoke emotions and use the photographic lense to explore hidden meaning within a subject.Q: Beauty is...

ChRIsTINE SMITh

MARTA OVOD

MEL BAGshAwANU PEsONEN

6

CONTRIBUTORS

Q: Beauty is…

BEAUtyWINtER

SMOULDERING eyes, perfect POUTS, chiselled CHEEKBONES and FLIRTY flicks... BELLE presents four of the HOTTEST beauty trends for the winter 09/10 season

SMOKyEyEs

Shades ranging from co!ee brown to charcoal

black were smudged over eyelids to create a

SMOULDERING look for winter 09/10.

CHLO

E

OSCA

R DE

LA

RENT

A

PRAD

A

CHLO

E

DONN

A KA

RAN

D SQ

UARE

D

ROBE

RTO

CAVA

LLI

ANNA

SUI

MAR

C JA

COBS

MIC

HAEL

KOR

S

MIC

HAEL

KOR

S

WARM TONES. !e houses of CHLOE, DONNA KARAN and OSCAR DE LA RENTA opted for natural shades of bronze and mocha blended into the eye socket, emphasising the shape of eyes. !e inner corners of eyes were then highlighted with an iridescent pale gold. At PRADA a theatrical take on the smoky eyes trend was presented. Created by blending deep shades of mahogany, red and brown, the look was finished by adding a fiery orange glitter to the central section of the eyelid.

DARK SIDE. !ere was no messing around at MICHAEL KORS and DSQUARED, where shades of charcoal and black were used to create a striking bad girl look. Teamed with understated lips this fierce look had some major attitude. At ROBERTO CAVALLI a gold, metallic dust was swept across the eyelid injecting another dimension to the matte black shades. Deep grey tones were accented with shades of brown and orange to create a smouldering look at ANNA SUI.

10

D&G

LOUdMOUthPerfectly lined lips in striking shades were seen all over the winter runways. Smear red, orange, fuchsia or berry over lips and wear with ATTITUDE.

ALBE

RTA

FERR

ETTI

GILE

S

D&G

HUSS

EIN

CHAL

AYAN

D&G

GILE

S

EMAN

UEL

UNGA

RO

ALEX

ANDE

R M

CQUE

EN

COLOUR POP. !e look at ALBERTA FERRETTI was all about bright, fuchsia coloured lips, with a frosted finish. A futuristic take on beauty was presented at EMANUEL UNGARO, where lower lips were coloured in a magenta shade and upper lips were painted orange. !is striking look gave a fresh take on wearing lipstick. At GILES full lips were painted in a spunky shade of orange-red. Against porcelain skin, this look was bold and striking.

THEATRICAL LOOK. D&G and HUSSEIN CHALAYAN opted for the deepest, darkest shades of berry painted onto remarkably lined lips to create drama. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN took things to another level by using a bold, glossy shade of red to exaggerate the size and shapes lips, making for a theatrical look.

CLEVERCOntOURs

For winter 09/10 faces were sculpted to perfection with matte

bronze shades creating dazzling CHEEKBONES.

ALES

SAND

RO D

ELL’A

CQUA

ALES

SAND

RO D

ELL’A

CQUA

ALES

SAND

RO D

ELL’A

CQUA

ALES

SAND

RO D

ELL’A

CQUA

ALES

SAND

RO D

ELL’A

CQUA

BLUM

ARIN

E

BLUM

ARIN

E

BLUM

ARIN

E

SCULPTED CHEEKBONES. At ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA the look was all about contouring. Dark bronze shades were blended below the cheekbones and continued right up to the temple area, creating a seriously sculpted face. Chocolate brown was swept across eyelids and blended into the eye socket. !e same shade was used below the eye to compliment the face. !e look was finished by first lining the lips, then applying a coppery, gold-coloured lipstick and high gloss.

DEWY PERFECTION. At BLUMARINE skin was fresh and flawless. Foundation was applied to look light and natural and cheeks were sculpted with a matte bronzer, slightly darker than the base colour. Eyebrows were shaded with neutral colours to create a thick, arched shape which worked to frame the face. A very light brown shade was swept across the whole eye area to enhance the natural shadow of the socket, and to bring out the eye colour.

12

WINgEdEyEsFlirty, flicked eyes ranged from subtle and delicate to attention-grabbing, ELONGATED eyes for winter 09/10.

MAR

C JA

COBS

MAN

ISH

AROR

A

DKNY

VIVI

ENNE

WES

TWO

OD

MAR

C JA

COBS

DOLC

E &

GABB

ANA

AQUA

SCUT

UM

AQUA

SCUT

UM

EXAGGERATED EYES. MARC JACOBS presented a range of looks but there was one common theme throughout them all: heavily lined, elongated eyes. Shades of dark green, purple and black, were blended into the eye socket and extended towards the temple. At MANISH ARORA a liquid bright orange was used to draw attention to eyes. At DKNY and VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, the look was much more subtle, o"ering a wearable, flirty look.

FIFTIES DRAMA. DOLCE & GABBANA presented a glamorous fifties-style look, similar to that of icon, Marilyn Monroe. At AQUASCUTUM perfectly lined eyes were teamed with lashings of mascara. Flawless skin and pale lips, worked to ensure the eyes were the dominant feature of the makeup look.

SHOWS OF THE SEASON

MARC JACObs

t Marc Jacobs, makeup artist Francois Nars championed the eighties by using an electric, neon colour palette and sharp shapes to echo the

runway looks the models were wearing. With a breathtaking array of edgy looks on show, amounting to 65 in total, the message from the catwalk was clearly about individuality: “I wanted to play with the girl’s individual personalities, so each one was given a di!erent ‘party’ face. "is show was about playing with colour and being adventurous,” he said. A key element that ran throughout all of the looks was starting with a perfectly porcelain, matte foundation. Eyes were then rimmed with black kohl liner, to give a deep, dark base to create smoky eyes. "is technique is easy to recreate at home as Nars explains: “Line inside and

outside the eyes, top and bottom with black eyeliner, then smudge out with your fingers to create an intense base for smoky eyes.” Shadows in both cream and powder textures, in shades of cobalt blue, purple, red, yellow and emerald green, were blended deep into the eye socket, creating a dramatic look. Lips were painted in colours including nude, lilac, green, purple and red. "is collection of fierce makeup looks was complimented by gravity-defying sculpted hair, created by hair stylist Guido Palau, to project a distinctly punk feel. Such a diverse range of makeup looks is not usually found in just one show, but Francois Nars has a great understanding of the power of makeup as a tool of transformation. He says: “Makeup is a great accessory, and that’s the message.”

NEW YORK

MUst-hAVE

PRODUCTs

1 Larger !an Life Volumising Mascara, £182 Loose Powder in Snow, £243 Multiple in Copacabana, £27(All by NARS)

1 2

3

A

18

SHOWS OF THE SEASON

LONDON

GILEs

iles presented a clean, trendy makeup look, which is both wearable and fun. Created by the M.A.C

Pro Team, this look exhibited a flawless foundation base and minimum makeup, with the emphasis purely on the lips. Painted in a bright orange-red shade, lips looked full and luscious, providing a modern-day glamorous, yet grungy look. "is grunge attitude was reflected in the simple makeup look, which gave a raw, slightly unfinished look to the show. "is unusual show included a mixture of professional models

and everyday girls that Giles came across in London’s Camden Borough. "is mixture of perfection and normality created a distinctly punk feel. Giles said: “To be honest, I just got a little bored of seeing the same girls in every single show. Once they have had their hair and makeup done, they all start to look the same. I really wanted a diversity of type.” "e beauty message from the Giles show clearly highlighted that sometimes less is more. Focusing on one feature, such as using a bright colour on lips, creates a bold, statement look.

MUst-hAVE

PRODUCTs

1 Double-ended Lipliner in Cranberry, £13.50, by Smashbox Cosmetics2 L’Absolou Lipstick in Rouge Odyssee, £17.50, by Lancome3 Touche Eclat in Fair, £23, by Yves Saint Laurent4 High Definition Foundation in Flesh, £24, by Make Up For Ever

1

2

3 4G

SHOWS OF THE SEASON

GUCCIMILAN

t Gucci the look was undeniably an Eighties a!air. Makeup was bold, bright and in-

your-face, which is exactly the way Makeup Artist, Pat McGrath, had created it. "e eighties catwalk trend of exaggerated shoulders was reflected in the eyes as shades were winged right out to the temples. "e colour palette was a distinct reflection of the exuberant and loud attitude of

the decade including shades of raspberry, fuchsia, red and, most importantly, blue. Heavy eyeliner complimented the look, giving the Gucci woman a mysterious air. Shades of pink were swept onto cheeks, and lips were painted in a deep red shade. "is fierce look encapsulates everything about eighties style. Hair was slicked back with a slight raised section in the centre.

MUst-hAVE

PRODUCTs

1 Rouge Volupte Lipstick in Red Muse, £20, by Yves Saint Laurent2 Eyeshadow in True Blue, £11.45, by Make Up For Ever3 Eyeshadow in Dark Raspberry, £11.45, by Make Up For Ever 4 Second-Skin Cheek Colour in Rose Bloom, £14.45, by Laura Mercier

12

3

2 3

4

A 2

3

20

SHOWS OF THE SEASON

ChRIstIAN DIORPARIS

t Christian Dior, legendary make up artist, Pat McGrath drew her inspiration

from the 1920s to create a bold, striking look. "e use of bright, exuberant colours gave the look an oriental influence, which was reflected in the luscious silk fabrics and opulent mood of the collection. “"e story for us is a very oriental look. We’re doing pinks, purples, silvers, and little bits of gold glitter,” said make up artist, Pat McGrath. As well of these shades a spectrum of other bright hues including yellow and orange were used cleverly around eyes to create depth

and shadow. Long, feathery false lashes were applied to both the top and bottom lashes giving a very dramatic e!ect. Cheeks were swept with striking shades of baby pink, peach and coral, highlighting cheekbones. Lips were lined to accentuate a Cupid’s bow shape, and were then painted in a deep purple colour. Eyebrows were erased, before a thin line was drawn in an arched shape, recreating the once-loved twenties shape. "e twenties theme was carried through to hair where a polished wave was clipped into place with around 300 bobby pins per head.

MUst-hAVE

PRODUCTs

1 Dior Show Iconic Mascara in Noir, £202 Eyeshadow palette in Petal Shine, £34.503 Dior Addict High Shine Lipstick in Brun Muse, £19(All by Dior)

1 2

3

A

21

INTERVIEW

Caroline Donnelly is a member of the M.A.C Pro Team and collaborates with designers to create makeup looks for fashion shows and magazines around the globe. She’s worked with a range of celebrities including Erin O’Connor, Elizabeth Jagger and Kylie Minogue. Her work has been published in British Elle, !e Observer and InStyle and she specialises in body painting and beauty makeup. But how do you make it big in the makeup artistry industry? Here, Caroline shares her insider makeup knowledge exclusively with BELLE…BELLE: When did you know you wanted to become a makeup artist and what inspired you to do so?CD: I didn’t think about make up artistry being a job until after I’d trained as a graphic designer and realised it wasn’t for me. I loved the illustration side and did this for a few years and then saw a part time makeup course at a local college. I loved it. My teacher said I should seek a career in this and so I decided to go for it. After that I won a scholarship at the London College of Fashion for two years. I’d always loved makeup and watching my mum put it on. I used to do makeup for other people. I was five-years-old in 1977 when punk broke into the headlines and TV shows. My dad had a couple of albums. I was already fascinated by 1950’s movie stars, and then there was disco. Even at a very young age I was intrigued by these women and their hair and makeup.BELLE: What was the first big opportunity/job you were given?

CD: My first paid make-up job was as an extra assistant on the BBC show Byker Grove. I still lived in Newcastle at the time, where it was filmed.BELLE: In terms of catwalk makeup, can you talk me through the development process of a makeup look from conception to the final look?CD: "e job starts with the stylist’s vision of what the girls should look like in the show. We then interpret this onto a model in a test situation, days prior to the show. "e makeup artist will work together with the stylist, hairdresser and designer to create the final look and this will then be reproduced on the day of the show.BELLE: Where do you gather your inspiration and ideas for makeup themes and looks?CD: I’m inspired by so many di!erent things. It could be makeup I have seen, art, movie stars, real people, fabric. It depends on the situation and what I am doing.BELLE: Out of all of the designer makeup looks you’ve created, which is your favourite?

CD: So many shows and so many incredible makeups. It would be impossible to pick just one. One of my most

inspirational experiences was with the makeup artist Kabuki; watching how he thinks, designs and makes his visions come to life.BELLE: In the makeup/beauty industry who would be your ‘idol’ and why?CD: "ere are so many people I admire, but some of the makeup artists whose work never fails to make me happy, are

Q&ABELLECAROLINE DONNELLyThe M.A.C Pro Team SENIOR ARTIST talks to Kirsty Armstrong about the atmosphere working BACKSTAGE during London Fashion Week, making up famous faces, and must-have makeup products to stock up on for Spring...

“Try PERFECTING black liner or sharp lined red lips whilst the MODEL’s head is tugged about in hair!”

22

SPRING BEAUTY

PREVIEW

Topolino, Kabuki, Val Garland, Pat McGrath and Alex Box. Each for technical ability, their beautiful work and creative brains.BELLE: Working as a M.A.C Senior Artist during fashion week, what would a day in your shoes entail?CD: As a M.A.C Senior Artist working backstage we have to be very organised. Previous to the show we will have gone to the test and so we know all the products that will be used. As the o#cial makeup brand we have to make sure that all of the makeup artists on the show will have the correct products. "is means going to the M.A.C Pro store and pulling all the products needed. On arrival at the show we need to distribute these products whilst making sure the key artist has everything he or she needs. We will often help organise the team, letting the makeup artists know what the key makeup artist wants them to do. For instance, a team to do bodies (moisturise and cover bruises), or they could be on lips, or powder, or whatever is needed. BELLE: How would you describe the atmosphere, working backstage at a show?CD: Sometimes it can be very calm, but mostly it is pretty hectic. Everybody just wants the models to be ready on time and to look beautiful, whatever the design. It usually starts o! calm but then as models arrive late from other shows it’s all hands on deck. As the hairdressers need electrical power for their work, we often have to makeup the model in hair. Our tools are easily transportable. "is means getting in between the hairdressers’ and sometimes partnering up with another makeup artist. "is can be very tricky and your heart beats at 90 miles per hour. Try perfecting black liner or sharp lined red lips whilst the models head is tugged about in hair! You get a great buzz from working on the shows.If everything gets really hectic it’s a great sense of achievement when it all works out, and it always does, because it has to.BELLE: If you could use only one makeup product to create a look what would you choose and why?CD: If I had to just use one product it would be foundation. It comes in so many di!erent colours, textures and finishes meaning that you can create a whole face using this one product alone.

BELLE: You’ve certainly made up many famous faces during your career so far, but if you could work with anyone, at all, who would it be and why?CD: At the moment I’d love to do Paloma Faith’s makeup as she has an interesting look and she’d be fun to make up. She looks like she’s quite open to di!erent looks and it would be an opportunity to flex the creative muscles.BELLE: What would you say has been your career highlight to date?CD: Working with Cyndi Lauper last year was amazing as I’d loved her growing up. I love working with Erin O’Connor as she is a lovely person with such an amazing face. Travel has been fantastic, going to places I would never have gone. I went to Beirut and loved it. Today I am going to Brazil.BELLE: If I asked you to give a ‘makeup forecast’ what do you predict will be the key makeup trends for spring?CD: Beautiful skin with a gorgeous glow in all the

right places. Strong lips. Cream blushes in floral colours. Black around the eyes, or colour, or nothing. "ere’s three

rules for spring makeup: colour, colour, colour. BELLE: What products should we stock up on to enable us to wear those trends?CD: M.A.C Face and Body foundation or M.A.C Studio Moisture Tint are going to be the base of choice without a doubt. M.A.C Cream Colour Base, in a colour which works for your skin tone, to highlight skin on cheekbones, bridge of the nose and all of the usual places. Oh, and keep an eye out for a new blush formulation that M.A.C will be launching next spring, everyone loved these backstage. BELLE: Which essential beauty products would you not leave home without?CD: I couldn’t leave home without blusher, to give me colour in my cheeks; concealer, just for where it’s needed; mascara to open up the eyes; and brow pencil to give my brows their shape, as I ruined them when I was young. I think these are beauty essentials for everyone. BELLE: Lastly, complete the sentence: ‘Beauty is…’CD: "e old saying ‘beauty is in the eye of the beholder’. It’s di!erent for everyone. Look how you want to look. We are all individuals and your ‘own’ beauty is your beauty.

INTERVIEW

“!ere’s three rules for SPRING makeup: colour, colour, colour.”

Caroline Donnelly worked as the KEY Makeup Artist on the Spring/Summer 10 HEADONISM show at London Fashion Week. She also worked on the GRAEME BLACK, ERDEM, JOSH GOOT and RICHARD NICOLL shows.

GRAE

ME

BLAC

K

GRAE

ME

BLAC

KER

DEM

ERDE

M

JOSH

GO

OT

JOSH

GO

OT

RICH

ARD

NICO

LL

RICH

ARD

NICO

LL

RICH

ARD

NICO

LL

HEAD

ONIS

M

MUst-HAVEPRODUCTS

CAROLINE’S TOP PRODUCT

RECOMMENDATIONS FACE AND BODY FOUNDATION, £23, by M.A.CA water-based, water-resistant foundation that provides natural coverage for face and body.

STUDIO MOISTURE TINT SPF 15, £19, by M.A.CAn easy one-step finish that provides just enough coverage to even out the skintone.

23

SMOKEAND

MIRRORs

SMOKEANd

MIRRORsPhotography MARTA OVODMakeup ANU PESONENHair ATSUSHI NINOMIYA Model NAERIVA KAW

30

Prep & Prime Moisturing Cream, M.A.C; Face & Body Foundation in N6, M.A.C; Select Cover Up Concealer in NC30, M.A.C; Select Sheer Loose Powder in NW35, M.A.C; Mineralise Blush in Hand Finish, M.A.C; Glitter in Crystalled Lime, M.A.C; Soft & Sparkle Eye Pencil in Iris Accents, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in White Pearl, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Ego, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Crystal, M.A.C; Kohl Liner in Smoulder, M.A.C; Liquid Liner in Black Track, M.A.C; Zoom Lash Mascara in Zoomblack, M.A.C; Lip Liner in Fuchsia, M.A.C; Lipstick in Impassioned, M.A.C

Prep & Prime Moisturing Cream, M.A.C; Face & Body Foundation in N6, M.A.C; Select Cover Up Concealer in NC30, M.A.C; Select Sheer Loose Powder in NW35, M.A.C; Mineralise Blush in Hand Finish, M.A.C; Pigment in Bright Fuchsia, M.A.C; Pigment in Pure White, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Passionate, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Swish, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Pink Freeze, M.A.C; Chromacake in Pure White, M.A.C; Zoom Lash Mascara in Zoomblack, M.A.C; Lipstick in Cyber, M.A.C; Lustreglass in Decorative, M.A.C

Prep & Prime Moisturing Cream, M.A.C; Face & Body Foundation in N6, M.A.C; Select Cover Up Concealer in NC30, M.A.C; Select Sheer Loose Powder in NW35, M.A.C; Blushcreme in Cherche, M.A.C; Cream Colour Base in Pearl, M.A.C; Chromacake in Rich Purple, Primary Yellow, Pure White and Basic Red, M.A.C; Kohl Liner in Smoulder, M.A.C; Zoom Lash Mascara in Zoomblack, M.A.C; Lip Pencil in Plum, M.A.C; Lipstick in Odyssey, M.A.C; Clear Lipglass, M.A.C

ADJACENT PAGE:Prep & Prime Moisturing Cream, M.A.C; Face & Body Foundation in N6, M.A.C; Select Cover Up Concealer in NC30, M.A.C; Select Sheer Loose Powder in NW35, M.A.C; Blushcreme in Cherche, M.A.C; Cream Colour Base in Pearl, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Shadowy Lady, Plumage and Humid, M.A.C; Zoom Lash Mascara in Zoomblack, M.A.C; Brow Liner in Spiked, M.A.C; Lip Pencil in Currant, M.A.C; Lipstick in Spice It Up, M.A.C

Prep & Prime Moisturing Cream, M.A.C; Face & Body Foundation in N6, M.A.C; Select Cover Up Concealer in NC30, M.A.C; Select Sheer Loose Powder in NW35, M.A.C; Powder Blush in Pinch Me, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Orange, Chrome Yellow and Vapour, M.A.C; Zoom Lash Mascara in Zoomblack, M.A.C; Lip Pencil in Cherry, M.A.C; Lipstick in Lady Danger, M.A.C; Clear Lipglass, M.A.C

35

REAd MyLIps

Photography MEL BAGSHAWMakeup ANU PESONENHair SHINYA FUKAMIModel TANYA KRYZONI

Prep & Prime Face Cream, M.A.C; Studio Fix Fluid Foundation in NW20, M.A.C; Studio Finish Concealer in NC15, M.A.C; Moisture Cover Concealer in NW20, M.A.C; Mineralize Skin Finish Powder in Light/Medium, M.A.C; Soft & Gentle Mineralize Highlighter Powder, M.A.C, Blusher in Devil, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Orb, Chrome Yellow and Carbon, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Sunset and Honey Pie, MAKE UP STORE; Liquid Liner in Boot Black, M.A.C; Pro Longlash Mascara in Pitchblack, M.A.C; Lip Liner in Chicory, M.A.C; Lipstick in Morange and MAC Red, M.A.C; Dazzleglass in Utterly Posh, M.A.C

Prep & Prime Face Cream, M.A.C; Studio Fix Fluid Foundation in NW20, M.A.C; Studio Finish Concealer in NC15, M.A.C; Moisture Cover Concealer in NW20, M.A.C; Mineralize Skin Finish Powder in Light/Medium, M.A.C; Soft & Gentle Mineralize Highlighter Powder, M.A.C, Blusher in Azalea, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Embark, Espresso, Wedge and Copperplate, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Jubilee, MAKE UP STORE; Fluidline in Black Track, M.A.C; Pro Longlash Mascara in Pitchblack, M.A.C; Lip Pencil in Magenta, M.A.C; Lipstick in Girl About Town, M.A.C; Dazzleglass in Stop!Look!, M.A.C

Prep & Prime Face Cream, M.A.C; Studio Fix Fluid Foundation in NW20, M.A.C; Studio Finish Concealer in NC15, M.A.C; Moisture Cover Concealer in NW20, M.A.C; Mineralize Skin Finish Powder in Light/Medium, M.A.C; Soft & Gentle Mineralize Highlighter Powder, M.A.C, Blusher in Azalea, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Orb and Plumage, M.A.C; Mineralize Eyeshadow in Green Mix, M.A.C; Liquid Liner in Boot Black, M.A.C; Pro Longlash Mascara in Pitchblack, M.A.C; Lip Liner in Fab Orchid, M.A.C; Lipstick in Violetta, M.A.C; Dazzleglass in Comet Blue, M.A.C

Prep & Prime Face Cream, M.A.C; Studio Fix Fluid Foundation in NW20, M.A.C; Studio Finish Concealer in NC15, M.A.C; Moisture Cover Concealer in NW20, M.A.C; Mineralize Skin Finish Powder in Light/Medium, M.A.C; Soft & Gentle Mineralize Highlighter Powder, M.A.C, Blusher in Azalea, M.A.C; Eyeshadow in Blanc Type, Patina, Embark and Espresso, M.A.C; Fluidline in Black Track, M.A.C; Pro Longlash Mascara in Pitchblack, M.A.C; Lip Liner in Cherry, M.A.C; Lipstick in Ruby Woo, M.A.C; Lipglass in Clear, M.A.C

VIVIENNE WEsTwOOD

HAIRsTyLE AND

MAKEUpARE CRUCIAL

FACTORs INpROJECTING AN

ATTRACTIVE

pERsONA.

“

”

CHANGINGFaces

FIVE MODELS, 91 CATWALK SHOWS

48 is the number of RUNWAYS Natasha Poly has strutted down in sky-scraper heels… 26 is how many sets of FALSE LASHES Jourdan Dunn has had applied to her delicate eyes… 36 is the number of times Raquel Zimmermann’s lips have been PAINTED in numerous shades… 28 is the number of occasions Tanya Dziahileva’s hair has been STRAIGHTENED… 89 is the amount of hours Lily Donaldson has spent in HAIR AND MAKEUP… But, for you, it all comes down to this…

COMPLEXION PERFECTION

RALPH LAUREN’s

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE SKIN WITH

FLAWLESS FOUNDATION

PRECISION POUT

YVES SAINT LAURENT’s

PUNCHY RED LIPS ARE LINED TO PERFECTION

MODEL STATISTICS

AGENCY: WOMEND.O.B: 12/07/85 (24 years)NATIONALITY: RussianHEIGHT: 5”10”BUST: 33”WAIST: 23”HIPS: 34”SHOES: 9 (US)HAIR: Dark BlondeEYES: Green

BACK ROW (left to right): PREEN; NINA RICCI; JOHN GALLIANO; RALPH LAUREN; ETRO; CHRISTIAN DIOR; YVES SAINT LAURENT; GUCCI; D&G; ALEXANDER WANGFRONT ROW (left to right): BALMAIN; MARC JACOBS; JONATHAN SAUNDERS; JEAN PAUL GAULTIER; KARL LAGERFELD; PROENZA SCHOULER; ZAC POSEN; DIESEL BLACK GOLD; BLUMARINE; PRADA

SULTRY SMOULDER

PROENZA SChOULER’s

SEXY SHIMMER IS CREATED USING DEEP

BRONZE TONES

NATAshA

POLY

CHANGING FACES

BARE-FACED CHIC

ChRIsTOphERKANE’s

SOMETIMES LESS IS CERTAINLY

MORE

JOURDAN

DUNNMODEL

STATISTICSAGENCY: STORMD.O.B: 03/08/90 (19 years)NATIONALITY: BritishHEIGHT: 5”10.5”BUST: 32”WAIST: 24”HIPS: 35”SHOES: 10 (US)HAIR: Dark BrownEYES: Brown

BACK ROW (left to right): ISSA; JAEGER LONDON; JASON WU; SOPHIA KOKOSALAKI; KENZO; ANNE VALERIE HASH; ISAAC MIZRAHI; CHRISTOPHER KANE; THAKOON; RODARTEFRONT ROW (left to right): TWENTY8TWELVE; CHEAP & CHIC; EMANUEL UNGARO; JULIEN MACDONALD; GIAMBATTISTA VALLI; RUE DU MAIL; MARY KATRANTZOU; UNIQUE; GILES; HUSSEIN CHALAYAN

STRONG BROWS

EMANUEL UNGARO’s

THICK ARCHED EYEBROWS

PERFECTLY FRAME THE FACE

DEEP BERRY LIPS

HUssEIN ChALAyAN’s

THE DARKEST SHADES OF BERRY ADD

DRAMA TO LIPS

CHANGING FACES

NUDE LIPSVERsACE’s

WHEN EYES ARE STRONG, KEEP LIPS SIMPLE WITH NUDE,

GLOSSY SHADES

BACK ROW (left to right): ALEXANDER MCQUEEN; BALENCIAGA; LANVIN; VERSACE; HERMES; NARCISO RODRIGUEZ; PHI; POLLINI; LOEWE; RICK OWENSFRONT ROW (left to right): CHANEL; BALMAIN; CHLOE; LOUIS VUITTON; ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA; ALBERTA FERRETTI; MIU MIU; ISABEL MARANT; PRADA; BOTTEGA VENETA

CHISELLED CHEEKBONES

MIU MIU’s

CREATE CONTOURS AND EMPHASISE BONE STRUCTURE THROUGH THE USE

OF BLUSHER

ZIMMERMANNRAQUEL

MODEL STATISTICS

AGENCY: VIVAD.O.B: 06/05/83 (26 years)NATIONALITY: BrazilianHEIGHT: 5”11”BUST: 33.5”WAIST: 24”HIPS: 34.5”SHOES: 9.5 (US)HAIR: BlondeEYES: Blue

DRAMATIC LASHESCHANEL’s

USE FALSE LASHES TO

CREATE A FUN, FLIRTY LOOK

CHANGING FACES

FUCHSIA LIPS

ANTONI BERARDI’s

TRANSFORM A LOOK FROM DAY-TO-NIGHT BY ADDING A SLICK OF HOT PINK LIPSTICK

PORCELAIN SKIN

VIKTOR & ROLF’s

MAKE LIKE THE ELIZABETHAN’S

WITH A PERFECTLY WHITE BASE

TANYADZIAHILEVA

MODEL STATISTICS

AGENCY: ELITEAGE: 04/01/91 (18 years)NATIONALITY: BelarusianHEIGHT: 5”11”BUST: 33”WAIST: 24”HIPS: 34”SHOES: 9.5 (US)HAIR: Light BlondeEYES: Blue/Green

BACK ROW (left to right): NICOLE FARHI; YOHJI YAMAMOTO; BRIONI; SALVATORE FERRAGAMO; ANNE DEMEULEMEESTER; DIANE VON FURSTENBERG; SPORTMAX; ANTONI BERARDI; GUY LAROCHE; JASPER CONRANFRONT ROW (left to right): JILL STUART; OSSIE CLARK; MOSCHINO; D SQUARED; BYBLOS; VIKTOR & ROLF; VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RED LABEL; ELIE SAAB; NICOLE MILLER

ICE-BLUE EYES

NICOLE MILLER’s

IRIDESCENT BLUE SHADOW, USED ON EYES,

CREATES A FROSTY LOOK

CHANGING FACES

LOUD MOUTHZAC POsEN’s

ALLOW YOUR LIPS TO DO THE TALKING WITH A BRIGHT SHADE LIKE ORANGE

BACK ROW (left to right): DOLCE & GABBANA; JEAN PAUL GAULTIER; VALENTINO; ZAC POSEN; MICHAEL KORS; MAXMARA; OSCAR DE LA RENTA MARC BY MARC JACOBS; PHI; LANVINFRONT ROW (from left to right): LOUIS VUITTON; GIVENCHY; BURBERRY PRORSUM; DONNA KARAN; CHANEL; ANNA SUI; CHLOE; DEREK LAM; CAROLINA HERRERA; RAG & BONE

ENGLISH ROSE

CAROLINA HERRERA’s

USE A ROSY COLOURED BLUSH ON THE APPLES

OF CHEEKS

FLICKED LINER

LOUIs VUITTON’s

OOZE GLAMOUR BY USING A LIQUID LINER ON THE UPPER LIDS

DONALDsONMODEL

STATISTICSAGENCY: IMGAGE: 27/01/87 (22 years)NATIONALITY: BritishHEIGHT: 5”10”BUST: 33”WAIST: 23”HIPS: 34”SHOES: 9 (US)HAIR: BlondeEYES: Blue

LILY

CHANGING FACES

IN PUbLIC.FEELs UNDREssED

A wOMAN whO

DOEsN’T wEAR

LIpsTICK

MAX FACTOR

“

”

HEALTHBELLE

n day two of London Fashion Week a sleepy fashion crowd mustered themselves early on a bright Saturday morning to attend Mark Fast’s Spring/Summer 10 show. As a creator of show-stopping garments, spun and weaved using an array of bold, beautiful, and

often spectacular colours, the audience had great expectations for the show ahead. Fast’s creations are tightly knitted and wrapped around bodies, always championing the body-con trend and his fashion-fans all have one thing in common – they’re young, thin, tall and toned. In a word, they’re beautiful. But on that September day, the Canadian-born designer had a shocking surprise in store that would break away from the conventions of a fashion show as we know it… Yes, there were still bright, beautiful colours. Yes, the creations were still intricately knitted, sculpted designs. Yes, there were spectacular shoes created by Christian Louboutin. But, along with the expected slender models we have come to expect, Fast sent three ‘normal’ sized models down the runway wearing his skimpy designs. "is controversial decision led to the show’s stylist, allegedly, walking out on him the night before the show took place. Luckily, Fast was able to get stylist, Daniella Agnelli, to step in and help out. Fast’s surprise casting of three normal-sized models occurred after he became involved in the new All Walks Beyond !e Catwalk initiative. Founded by Caryn Franklin, Debra Bourne, Erin O’Connor and Susan Ringwood, All Walks Beyond !e Catwalk aims to challenge some of the fashion industry’s long-held preconceptions about size, shape and perceptions of beauty. Caryn Franklin explains: “"is is about inclusivity. Curvy women are showcasing top design alongside slender women… "e diversity is what we wanted.”

Designer MARK FAST attempts to BREAK THE MOULD and start a significant trend, bringing REAL CURVES to the runway...

BIG FAshION

“it DEMONSTRATES how the fashion world is taking the APPRECIATION of all WOMEN seriously.” Mark Fast

ALL WALKS. Size-12 model, Hayley Morley, photographed by Kayt Jones for the London Fashion Week photog raphy exhibition.

STATEMENT

O

Central Saint Martins graduate, MARK FAST, at the close of his S/S 10 show during London Fashion Week.

58

Sticking to his signature knitted, body-con aesthetic, Fast designed bespoke garments for size-12 model, Hayley Morley, for the All Walks Beyond the Catwalk exhibition. Fast comments: “All Walks is important because it demonstrates how the fashion world is taking the appreciation of all women seriously.” A photography exhibition, which took place on the first evening of London Fashion Week at Somerset House, o#cially launched the All Walks Beyond the Catwalk initiative. Present at the party was prime minister’s wife, Sarah Brown. “London Fashion Week is all about celebrating British brilliance, and All Walks Beyond the Catwalk is a chance to be proud of British beauty… It’s a reminder that true style and glamour know no boundaries,” she says. As well as Fast, several other emerging ready-to-wear designers such as Hannah Marshall, David Koma, Georgia Hardinge and William Tempest have also collaborated with a diverse range of models to create bespoke garments that will accommodate the model’s individual shape and size. Hannah Marshall says: “All Walks Beyond !e Catwalk is steering the way for diversity in the fashion industry… It challenges the ideals of what beauty is and makes us think, really think.” William Tempest adds: “It’s really refreshing to be making and seeing fashion on a variety of di!erent shapes and sizes.” Some amongst the fashion spectators were outraged by Fast’s show, mostly because, increasingly, there is an expectation to see a certain size model on a catwalk. From years of seeing show after show where the designers have used thin models, the industry has come to regard this as the norm.

Although Fast was praised by many for taking a risk with his decision to cast normal-sized models, he also received criticism. Part of the problem with putting real-size women on the catwalk worked to highlight how thin the usual models actually are. All Walks Beyond !e Catwalk was inspired by the charity BEAT, which is a UK national charity supporting people a!ected by eating disorders. Susan Ringwood, Chief Executive of BEAT says: “We know that fashion doesn’t directly cause eating disorders – they are much more complex than that… Young people are inspired

by fashion and influenced by ideals. By o!ering these wonderful images of diverse beauty, we know that fashion’s influence beyond the catwalk can be seen as a positive force in young people’s lives.” "e body size of models is always a controversial topic that reoccurs time and time again. "e Model Health Inquiry launched by the British Fashion Council in 2007 in response to the size-zero trend, failed to make its mark or induce change in the industry. Fast took a huge risk by casting normal-sized models in his show, but it was his belief in the cause that led him to his decision. By putting his designs on bigger models it makes it more possible for us to visualise the clothes on our own bodies, instead of looking at them as pieces of

art. In turn, this makes fashion more accessible. Yes, he risked ridicule by the fashion media, but the example he sets to the public is a great one. "e message from Fast’s runway was simply this – it is diversity and individuality that makes you beautiful.

‘All Walks Beyond the Catwalk’ is an ongoing campaign to raise awareness, educate and celebrate the beauty of individuality. For more information visit the o"cial website at www.allwalks.org.

HEALTH

MARK FAST S/S 10. !ere was a distinct di"erence between the body sizes of the usual catwalk models and the normal-sized models MARK FAST cast in his Spring/Summer 10 show at London Fashion Week.

“London Fashion Week is all about celebrating British BRILLIANCE, and All Walks Beyond the Catwalk is a chance to be proud of British BEAUTY. It’s a reminder that true style and glamour know NO BOUNDARIES.” Sarah Brown

59

or me, some of the most piercing memories come from my childhood. During this age of innocence, I encountered many new scents and smells for the first time, creating a link between the smell and the situation I found myself in.

Without doubt, the most powerful memories that fragrance recalls for me are those of people and loved ones in my life. When little survives from your history and loved ones have passed away, buildings have been demolished and articles cease to exist, there is one thing that remains as vividly clear in your mind as the day you encountered it. "is wonderful trigger of things past is a scent. A memory of fragrance may hide away in the back of your mind but never will it fade. On one unsuspecting day it will re-emerge bringing with it startlingly powerful emotion. A single drop of Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium, takes me right back to the days I spent wrapping myself up in my Grandmother’s collection of silk scarves, while I tottered around in her heels. "e slightest aroma of Chanel No. 5 carries me swiftly back to the youthful years I spent in rehearsals, with my dance teacher, for performances in pantomimes and shows. "e fresh, citrus notes of Elizabeth Arden’s Green Tea, instil the memory of an embrace with my Mother after a, seemingly, ever-so-long day at primary school. "e woody scent of tobacco is a comforting reminder of the days I spent cycling in the British countryside with my Father. As well of conjuring memories of other people, fragrance is

often an unquestionable reminder of myself as a youth. During my teenage years I was unfaithful to many scents, never quite happy with the perfume I wore, always on the lookout for a better contender for my a!ections. However, there were certain fragrances that made their mark on me and will be a constant reminder of varying degrees of my mischievous self. "e punchy, zesty notes of Tommy Girl, by Tommy Hilfiger

encapsulate the 13-year-old within me. Many a day did I drench myself in this sweet scent,

seemingly unaware of the ‘less is more’ rule.

As I progressed to College, the crispy, fresh notes of Dolce & Gabbana’s Light Blue caught my attention for a few years. During the latter years of my teenage life, I hopped from perfume to perfume and found myself wearing everything from Emporio Armani’s She, to

Clinique Happy, to DKNY’s Be Delicious.

Over recent years, however, I have come to settle at a favourite

perfume. At this point in my life the sensual, deep, lingering floral notes

of Stella by Stella McCartney perfectly represent the woman I am today. Passionate and

determined, yet youthful and strong, a spritz of this delightful fragrance alters my mood. During the long, hot summer months, I’m a fan of Sheer by Stella McCartney, which is a slightly lighter, fresher version of the original scent and includes the addition of grapefruit notes. Although, for now, I’ve found my signature scent, I’m not averse to hunting down a breathtaking fragrances that may shape my memories still to come.

“When little survives from your history and

loved ones have passed away, buildings have been demolished

and articles cease to exist, there is one thing that remains as vividly

clear in your mind as the day you first encountered it:

a scent.”

Kirsty Armstrong, BELLE Editor, takes us on a short JOURNEY through scent, revealing some of the fragrances that will forever remain in her MEMORY…

MEMOIRBELLE

FRAGRANT JOURNEY

F

62