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ROME
There are few cities on the planet more steeped in history, intrigue, politics, culture, romance, and jaw-dropping ancient architecture than Rome.
The sheer scale and breathtaking preservation of many of the cities greatest monuments is a joy to
behold. And then of course, there is the cooking, the staggering art, the fashion, la bella figura and of
course la dolce vita. The Romans love life, and who are we to deny them? Embrace Rome with open
arms, and go as often as you can, there’s simply nowhere like it.
The cult pocket city guides and mobile apps for the busy, sophisticated travelerwww.luxecityguides.com
Citi presents LUXE City Guides
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Rome is super-saturated with
visitors on all major holidays,
particularly religious ones; the
best times to visit are Nov, Jan
or Feb; Aug broils, the population
flee en masse and the city all but
shuts, but at least the streets are
relatively crowd free – your call
Fiumicino to Centro set fare by
taxi: €45 / 40 mins
Ciampino to Centro set fare by
taxi: €35 / 35 mins
Taxi drivers are notorious for
adding extras, so watch the
meter, Peter. In town, the meter’s
red dot should be next to the #1;
if not, he’s diddling you...
Check your change, Romans
rarely tip their drivers
Stillies + cobble streets don’t mix,
so break out the flats
Spring: Settimana della Cultura –
Culture Week, all state museums
are free / beniculturali.it. Sep/
Oct: Roma Europa Art Festival –
music, dance and theatre / http://
www.romaeuropa.net. Oct/Nov:
Festa del Cinema / http://www.
romacinemafest.it.
Shops generally open from 10am-
7:30pm, although smaller ones
take an afternoon pause from
1-4pm, and most close all day Sun
and on Mon mornings too
Restaurants and services
tend to close on Sunday
as well, so use this day for
museums and activities
Always book well ahead for the
city’s best tables and be sure
to reconfirm as reservations
often get ‘lost’
Service is always included, but
add up to 10% anyway
All indoor restaurants and bars
are non-smoking
Bars are legally required to let
non-patrons use loos which
is terribly useful if you’re
caught short
Coffee etiquette: caffè/espresso
is a single shot, doppio is
a double shot, Americano
is a long black
Drinking cappuccino after midday
is considered a tad declassé
The intl dialing code for Italy
is +39, Rome’s city code is 6,
although this prefix is not needed
when calling mobiles; for general
emergencies dial 113
BLAH BLAH
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KIKA REPETTO
LUXE INSIDER
Style consultant Kika Repetto is the city’s go-to personal
shopper offering full or half-day bespoke itineraries tailored
to match each client’s budget and taste. Commuting between
Rome, São Paulo, Paris and London she keeps a firm finger
on the pulse of all the latest trends and forecasts, openings,
closings and city secrets.
By appt only +39 328 696 4886
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KIKA REPETTO
LUXE INSIDER
1) What’s the best time of year to visit Rome and why? Are there any special events to look out for?
May, flowers everywhere, walls covered in jasmine, the entire town is jasmine scented! Visit
the Roseto Comunale (open from May to October an amazing rose garden with 1100 different
varieties of roses – Via di Valle Murcia, 6 (Aventino)
2) What’s the one thing every visitor to Rome must do and why?
View Rome from the top! From the Passeggiata del Gianicolo by the statue of Garibaldi, from
the terrace of Musei Capitoline, or Hotel Eden’s La Terrazza dell’Eden (fantastic for drinks),
from the Pincio Villa Borghese, or from the terrace of Castel SantÁngelo. All offer sublime
views of the city around sunset.
www.museicapitolini.org • www.laterrazzadelleden.comwww.castelsantangelo.com
3) Where can you be found on a Saturday or Sunday morning?
In spring or on a sunny winter day, for lunch at Ciampini at Piazza Trinita dei Monti by the
Spanish Steps, or Bar Cafe Ciampini in Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina for cappuccino and
cornetti or a light lunch.
www.caffeciampini.com • www.ciampini.net
4) What’s the best local delicacy in Rome, and why and where is it worth trying?
Burrata and dried pachino tomatoes with nut bread you could die for at Roscioli, one of the
best Italian gourmet shops that has a small restaurant in the back. Make sure you book!
www.salumeriaroscioli.com
5) Where would you go for a cocktail and what would you order?
Salotto 42 at Piazza di Pietra 42. Very good drinks in a cool modern atmosphere in front of
the most striking columns in Rome, steps away from the Pantheon. Good music, and a young
and hip Roman crowd that give a sense of where the city’s scene is at right now! I love their
Bloody Mary with lots of lemon.
www.salotto42.it
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SANTA LUCIA
In late spring and all through summer can there
be anything lovelier than dining alfresco at
night on the little triangular, tree-lined terrazza
of Santa Lucia? The freshest of ingredients
are paraded for your delectation, the waiters
are beyond friendly, and its location means it’s
literally steps from the Raphael Hotel and its
glorious little rooftop bar where you will no doubt
wish to sit pre and post. Cin cin!
Largo Febo, 12 / Navona /
+39 6 6880 2427
www.santaluciaristorante.it
Dining
LUXE LOVES
LA TAVERNA DEI FORI IMPERIALI
Packed to the rafters and always popular, the
serious, no nonsense, big flavors cooking, and
cheerful, swift service keep the diners coming
back for more. If you like gingham on your table,
and classic dishes like carbonara or meat loaf on
your plate, you’ll be in heaven.
Via Madonna dei Monti 9 / Monti / +39 6 679 8643 / closed Tuesday
www.latavernadeiforiimperiali.com
Dining
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SALOTTO 42
Rome’s fashionistas love the relaxed,
but chic vibe of this book-lined salon
with its great cocktails, sounds and
plush places to perch. Tucked in the
back streets behind the Pantheon and
open throughout the day, it’s a great
bolt-hole for a coffee too.
Piazza di Pietra, 42 / Pantheon / +39 6 678 5804 / closed Monday
www.salotto42.it
Bar
LUXE LOVES
IL GOCCETTO
As you amble down Via dei Banchi
Vecchi, at lunchtime, but more
especially in the evening, you’ll
see patrons spilling out onto the
street at this greatly loved and
mellow institution that specialises
in small labels from Sicily to Venice.
Fun and friendly.
Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14 / Campo di Fioro / +39 6 686 4268 / closed Sunday
ilgoccetto.com
Bar
AL MORO
Fellini was a fan, and Valentino still is.
Head to this charming time warp for
polished woods, nostalgic photographs
and traditional recipes served up
with old-fashioned finesse. Try the
house speciality, Spaghetti Al Moro (a
version of carbonara) and don’t worry,
Franco the grumpy owner is grumpy to
everyone, not just you!
Vicolo delle Bollette, 13 / Trevi / +39 6 678 3495 / closed Sunday
Dining
GELATERIA SAN CRISPINO
There’s ice cream, and then there’s San
Crispino gelati. This traditional parlour
delivers divine homemade honey,
meringue, ginger and fig amongst
many, many others, and while you have
to run the gauntlet of the Trevi milling
masses to get to it, it sure is worth it
when you do. Dreamy and creamy!
Via della Panetteria, 42 / Trevi / +39 6 679 3924 / closed Tuesdays in
autumn and winterwww.ilgelatodisancrispino.it
Dining
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GALLERIA BORGHESE
Not only is the villa pretty, but the
superb, perfectly-sized museum inside
it contains gorgeous works by Titian,
Raphael, Caravaggio and Rubens, as
well as staggering Bernini and Canova
marble masterpieces that seem to be
alive. What’s more, tickets are limited
and timed, so there is no push or shove
and no over-crowding. A joy!
Villa Borghese / Piazzale Scipione Borghese, 5 / +39 6 328 10 / tickets must
be booked in advancewww.galleriaborghese.it
Activities
LUXE LOVES
THE SCAVI TOUR
Not for the fainthearted, nor those
suffering from claustrophobia, this
unique tour is severely restricted
in numbers, highly atmospheric
and takes you into the bowels of St.
Peter’s Basilica to visit the original
pagan necropolis underneath it and
purported last resting place of St.
Peter himself.
You can only book (in advance) via the Vatican Excavations Office by
email or fax – [email protected] / +39 6 69 873 017 / for full application details type in ‘excavations office scavi’ on
the search engine at www.vatican.va
LUCIA ODESCALCHI
If contemporary jewelry rings your bell,
then don’t dare miss these stunning
collections housed in Ms. Odescalchi’s
beautiful family palazzo. Pairing bronze
and iron and steel with diamonds and
precious stones, Lucia has set the
fashion world alight, and more than a
few hearts fluttering.
Piazza Santi Apostoli, 81 / +39 6 699 2556
www.luciaodescalchi.com
Shopping Shopping
MORIONDO & GARIGLIO
Who can resist sweets for the sweet?
No matter what time of year you visit
this confetteria you’re guaranteed
a seasonal delight of homemade
chocolates and candies, from marron
glacés in winter to sugar violets
in spring. Adorable and sinful,
in equal measure.
Via del Pie di Marmo, 21 / Pantheon / +39 6 699 0856 / closed Sunday
Activities
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LUXE LOVES
PORTRAIT SUITES
This 14-suite ‘residence’ oozes
Ferragamo attention to detail and
style, attentive staff, a calm palette
of limed woods and dove grey, plus a
fabulous rooftop deck that’s perfect for
sunset views of the city. All rooms have
kitchenettes, while #51 has a private
terrace and #52 is super-doop duplex.
Via Bocca di Leone, 23 / Spagna / +39 6 6938 0742 /
www.lungarnocollection.com/en
Hotel
LUXE LOVES
BABUINO 181
Fabulously situated, molto elegante
contemporary chambers wrapped
in a C.18th palazzo, with comp WiFi,
snappy service and quieter courtyard-
facing rooms for light sleepers, and all
but a Gucci loafer’s toss from Piazza
Popolo, Hotel de Russie and the lovely
shopping of Via Margutta and Via
Condotti. Bliss!
Via del Babuino, 181 / Popolo / +39 6 6992 1907
www.romeluxurysuites.com
Hotel
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TAXI DRIVERS
Notorious for adding extras,
watch out for the red dot scam
(see Blah blah)
GRAFFITI
Everywhere, particularly
Trastevere, such a shame
WAITERS
You could expire and be buried
before being served
‘CENTURIONS’ AT THE COLISEUM
These photo ops, are photo flops
OPENING TIMES
What do Roman shopkeepers do
on Sunday, Monday morning and
daily between 1-4pm?
LUXE LOATHES
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VATICAN VISIT
Nothing can be more drab than
standing in line outside the Vatican
Museums with literally thousands of
other grumpy people, so to cut your
queue time to only minutes, book a
personal guided tour with Context
Travel – ta-dah!
www.contexttravel.com
DRAB VS. FAB
PICNIC
Don’t waste time racing all around
town trying to put together hamper
ingredients, pop into Gina and pick
up a picnic ‘cestino’ packed with
summery goodies.
ginaroma.com
GETTING AROUND
Rome’s myriad of tiny streets can
mean getting stuck in noisy traffic
on baking summer days is a strong
possibility, consider instead zipping
around town on your very own scooter
or bicycle from Bici e baci.
bicibaci.com
WINE APPRECIATION
If you enjoy drinking delicious Italian
wine with every meal, you’ll enjoy it
all the more once you understand its
nuances. Arrange a fab wine tasting
masterclass at Vino Roma and amaze
your friends back home with your
newfound knowledge.
www.vinoroma.com
COOL OFF
Being all hot and bothered with
nowhere to cool off and relax is not
ideal, but rather than throw yourself
in the Trevi Fountain, all you have to
do is simply buy lunch at the Parco
dei Principi Hotel and you can treat
yourself to an afternoon poolside at
the hotel’s lovely oasis, one of the very
few swimming pools in the city.
parcodeiprincipi.com
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ROMANCE
Start your day viewing the charming
private family collection housed at
the Galleria Doria Pamphilj. This vast
palazzo is still home to the Pamphilj
family, and is a fascinating insight into
the art and daily life of the house. The
audio tour is narrated in English by Prince
Jonathan himself. Afterwards head
to Ciampini for a well-earned coffee,
or better yet, a large portion of their
scandalously good pistachio ice-cream,
before zipping to the Spanish Steps and
popping into Gina to pick up a picnic (see
Fab vs Drab). Now, off with you to the
sylvan grounds of the Villa Borghese, the
perfect park to eat your lunch alfresco.
Having booked your tickets in advance
you will now be perfectly placed to
saunter into your timed opening slot at
the sublime Galleria Borghese (see LUXE
Loves), home to some to the loveliest
treasures in the city, and with limited
numbers allowed in at any one time, there
are none of the heaving crowds of the
Vatican Museum. Well, you’ve certainly
earned a pamper, and the glorious,
limpid Wellness Zone spa at the Hotel de
Russie is the perfect place to relax in the
company of the city’s divas and divos who
can’t get enough of the Watsu and hydro-
relaxation. As the clock hits 5pm your
thoughts should be turning to Campari
time atop the pretty roof of the Raphael
Hotel for the inevitably lovely sunset
over the ravishing city skyline. Cocktails
here come with a handsome selection of
tidbits, but don’t fill up, you’ve only a few
steps to go outside the hotel to find the
gracefully romantic, tree-lined terrazza
of Santa Lucia (see LUXE Loves) where
a high likelihood of Cupidity is always
in the air. Saunter homewards now, but
stop for a nightcap if you can at Bar
della Pace – the streetside tables of this
eternal favorite line one of the city’s most
picturesque backstreets, drenched in
atmosphere and always lively.
LUXE ITINERARY
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STYLE
Well, you’ve certainly got a stylish day
ahead, but don’t skimp on the most
important meal of the day, instead make
a beeline to chicster café La Buvette
where they even offer delicious health
and low-cal breakfasts (mostly unheard of
in Roma). Suitably replete, can there be
any greater joy than shopping the nearby
streets Babuino, Margutta and legendary
Condotti? So many shopportunities; from
fashion staples Eleonora and TAD, glove
emporium Sermoneta, and home décor
at Pratesi, to labelista Marni and shoe
maestro Caovilla. It’s always important,
of course, to balance retail with culture,
so don’t miss Richard Meier’s stupendous
glass and travertine ‘temple’ that houses
the utterly beautiful Ara Pacis, or Altar
of Peace. It sits rather conveniently in the
same square as stylish, all day flop-spot
Gusto, equally great for coffee, lunch or
supper, and rightly famous for its jazzy
Sunday brunch buffet. Drop those heavy
shopping bags back at the hotel and off
with you velocemente to the fabulous
MAXXI. Zaha Hadid’s architectural tour
de force is alone worth a viz, but the
contemporary art makes it an afternoon
well spent and there’s also a natty café in
case you get a sudden attack of gallery-
itis. When the weather is fine there is
little more pleasant occupation in Rome
than escaping the milling streets to a
rooftop bar for alfresco sundowners
surrounded by the amber rapture of
ancient buildings, and the lounge bar of
I Sofa di Via Giulia atop the St. George
Hotel perfectly matches sophisticated
cocktails with stunning views. Hungry?
Ask yourself how are you feeling; chic,
urbane and in the mood for elegant
dining? Then make sleekster Baby your
choice with its poolside garden terrace.
Or, if something a little grittier, relaxed
and local is called for, hotfoot it to Monti
and the always popular, organic regional
cooking of Urbana 47. It just remains to
take nightcaps at the book-lined social
salon Salotto 42 (see LUXE Loves), and
that’s one stylish day in the bag!
LUXE ITINERARY
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Having a summer breakfast meeting?
Try to arrange it at the Hotel De Russie
so you can enjoy the alfresco perfection
of the 2 Michelin star Jardin de Russie,
with its pretty, clipped shrubs and roses.
Should you have forgotten the mandatory
sunglasses that no Italian would be seen
dead without, fret not, simply scoot
across the road from the hotel to Ottica
Spieza and get yourself suitably shaded
from their up to the moment range of
specs. There is little or no excuse for
being badly turned out in Rome with a
plethora of men’s and women’s outfitters,
but for serious men’s shirt tailoring and
excellent suits saunter down Condotti to
find Battistoni, and classically tasteful
men’s and womenswear at Brunello
Cucinelli. Now that you’re sartorially
sorted, you will need to think of grooming.
Rome’s ladies in the know all make
tracks to the head-turning Noi salon
where up-do’s and blowouts rule the day
from celebs to contessas. Gentlemen
meanwhile, should check into one-
stop guy spot Wonderfool. This groovy
groomer features a barber, spa, Turkish
bath, mini-gym, massages, facials, male-
nails and great Art of Shaving products
to buy. Lunch! When great value and a
great venue are called for, book ahead for
the 2-course set lunch at Open Colonna.
This soaring glass conservatory attracts
a very stylish, professional clientele and
is also a social hub at aperitivi hour.
Speaking of which, on the occasion that
you may prefer a quiet business drink
away from the eyes of all, the gloriously
old fashioned Bar Bistro Mascagni
scores top marks – hidden away in the
Grand Hotel Plaza, this step-back-in-time
capsule of brass and red velvet serves
up a very decent martini and peaceful
Proseccos, safely undiscovered by the
milling hordes. For dinner, Dal Bolognese
is packed with the Estab crowd, politicos,
WAGS and celebs, but for a venue where
the accent is more firmly on the food,
your clients will love Antico Arco –
great cuisine, swish crowd and
lovely surroundings.
BUSINESS
LUXE ITINERARY
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STYLE
ROMANCE
Galleria Doria PamphiljVia del Corso, 305 / Patheon /
+39 6 679 7323 / www.doriapamphilj.it
CiampiniPlazza Trinita dei Monti / Centro /
+39 6 678 5678 www.caffeciampini.com
Gina (see Fab vs Drab)
Villa Borghese Via Pinciana
Galleria Borghese (see LUXE Loves)
Wellness Zone Hotel de Russie / Via del Babuino, 9 /
Popolo / +39 6 3288 820 / www.hotelderussie.it
Raphael HotelLarge Febo, 2 / Piazza Navona /
00186 Rome / +39 6 682 831 / www.hotelraphael.it
Santa Lucia (see LUXE Loves)
Bar della Pace Via della Pace 3-7 / Navona /
+39 6 686 1216www.caffedellapace.it
THE ESSENTIALS
La BuvetteVia Vittoria, 47 / Spagna /
+39 6 679 0383www.labuvetteroma.it
Eleonora Via del Babuino, 97 / Spagna /
+39 6 6919 0554 / www.eleonoraboutique.it
TAD Via del Babuino, 155a / Spagna /
+39 6 3269 5122
Sermoneta Piazza di Spagna, 61 / Spagna /
+39 6 679 1960www.sermonetagloves.com
Pratesi Via Vittoria, 67a / Spagna /
+39 6 6819 0252 www.ue.pratesi.com
Marni Via Bocca di Leone 8 / Spagna /
+39 6 786 320
CaovillaVia Borgognona, 10 / Spagna /
+39 6 678 3879 / www.caovilla.com
Ara Pacis Lungotevere in Augusta / Corso /
+39 6 8205 9127www.arapacis.it
Gusto Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 9 / Centro /
+39 6 322 6273www.gusto.it
MAXXI Via Guido Reni, 6 / Flaminio /
+39 6 678 4350www.fondazionemaxxi.it
I Sofa di Via GiuliaVia Giulia, 62 / Pantheon /
+39 6 6866 1826 www.isofadiviagiulia.com
Baby (Closed but other restaurants
available: www.aldrovandi.com/en/48/restaurants-and-bars.aspx)
Urbana 47 Via Urbana, 47 / Monti /
+39 6 4788 406 www.urbana47.it
Salotto 42(see LUXE Loves)
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BUSINESS
Jardin de RussieHotel de Russie / Via del Babuino, 9 /
Popolo / +39 6 3288 8870 / www.hotelderussie.it
Ottica SpiezaVia del Babuino, 199 / Popolo /
+39 6 361 0593
BattistoniVia Condotti 60/61a / Tridente /
+39 6 697 6111 /www.battistoni.com
Brunello CucinelliVia Borgognona, 33 / Spagna /
+39 6 678 7680 www.brunellocucinelli.it
Noi Piazza del Popolo, 3 / Popolo /
+39 6 3600 6284 www.noisalon.com
WonderfoolVia dei Banchi Nuovi, 39 / Navona /
+39 6 6889 2315 www.wonderfool.it
Open ColonnaScalinata di via Milano, 9a / 00184
Roma / +39 6 4782 2641 / www.opencolonna.it
Bar Bistro MascagniGrand Hotel Plaza / Via del Corso, 126 /
Corso / +39 6 674 952 / www.grandhotelplaza.com
Grand Hotel PlazaVia del Corso, 126 / Corso /
+39 6 674 952 393 www.grandhotelplaza.com
Dal BolognesePiazza del Popolo, 1 / Popolo /
+39 6 361 1426
Antico ArcoPiazzale Aurelio, 7 / Janiculum /
+39 6 581 5274 www.anticoarco.it
THE ESSENTIALS
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YOUR LUXE NOTES