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Planning your vegetable garden
Soil typeMost gardeners have to makethe best of the soil which theyhave in their backyards. Heavyclay soils present many problems.However, small areas can begreatly improved by the addition oforganic material, lime and fertil-isers.
Sandy loams and loam soils arebest; they allow freedom of root
growth and movement of moisturethrough the soil. Loamy soils areeasy to cultivate and do not formhard surface crusts. Loams arenot sticky when wet like clay soils,nor do Shey run in freelike sandy soils.
Sandy soils require frequentwatering and fertilisers are rapidlyleached through. However, theywarm up early in the spring andare ideal for early crops. They
are not as fertile as loam or claysoils.
Vegetables require a good depthof soil, so gardeners should tryto build up from 200 to 300 mmof top soil.
Slope and aspectIt is easier to grow crops on levelland than on a slope, but drain-age may present some problems.Try to avoid very low patches. If
land slopes choose a north-east-erly aspect if possible. Run rowsacross the slope, not up and downit. On level areas rows are bestrun north and south.
Hot winds increase the rate ofwater loss from the leaves, causingthe plant to wilt. Hot winds alsodry the surface soil and reducethe amount of water available forshallow surface roots.
Flower setting is often affectedby hot winds and gardeners fmdthat beans, in particular, will failto set. Winds, hot and cold, loosenthe plant roots in the soil and
may damage the root system.Young seedlings, such as carrots,are particularly susceptible tosandblast in light soils.Many suburban gardens arewell sheltered by high palingfences, but country gardens maynot be so fortunate. Hedges, rowsof trees and tall growing crops,such as sweet corn and ryecorn,and artificial windbreaks of woodand metal can be used.
A solid fence or hedge is notdesirable. This type of barrierwill create turbulence on thedownwind side some distance fromthe windbreak and may evencause more damage than directwind. Slatted paling fences areused successfully in metropolitanmarket gardens. They have abouta 50% opening. Plastic meshwind-break fences are now avail-able ; these are particularly use-ful in the large farm garden in ex-posed areas.
Large trees can cause problemsas wind may be funnelled underthem. They also compete with
Shelter the garden fbr moisture >nd plantThe effect of wind on the growth nutrients and may cause undesir-of vegetables is often underesti- able shading, especially in themated. In addition to causing winter months.physical damage to the plant, cold Tall growing crops, such aswinds cool the plants and soil, sweet corn are effective for sum-delaying growth and maturity. mer wind protection. It should
be planted as early as possible tensure that the crop is higenough to provide sufficient protection early in the season.
Trees and shadeVegetables need maximum lighfor good growth, especially in thwinter months. Pay particulaattention to where shadows faduring the short winter days, an
do not locate the vegetable patcwhere it will be shaded by buildings and trees. Trees and shrubwhich are too close will take watefrom vegetable beds.
Accessibility and water supplyThe vegetable garden should bconveniently located close to thkitchen door and not too far fromthe tool shed. The water supplyhowever, is an important con
sideration especially on farms aninstitutions.On farms it is often more con
venient to divide the garden inttwo sections. A small garden closto the house can be planted witbeans, carrots, beet, lettuce, another small vegetables which areasily cultivated with hand tool
Pumpkins, melons, potatoesweet corn, unstlaked tomatoeand other crops requiring muc
more room can be planted awafrom the house, possibly wherland can be ploughed with farm tractor.
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A trrl1i.r i.v tr c o r ~ v e r ~ i e r ~ twrry of growit1.q bcrrns nr~tlc~rcrlmhersin corlf irled .rpnc.c,.s-if crlsu rnnlies pickirlg rnrcch easier.
Size and layoutPlan the layout of the garden tosuit your own requirements, re-membering the following:1.
Tailor the size of your gardento suit the family requirements. Anarea 12 metres by 9 metres shouldprovide for the needs of a familyof four if two crops are grown inmost beds each year. A smallgarden which can easily be caredfor is much better than a largeone which may be neglected.2. Plant vegetables which thefamily like best, and where spaceis limited, grow vegetables with
the highest yield. Salad vege-tables, which deteriorate rapidlyafter picking, are a must for thehome garden. Vegetables whichshould not be considered in smallgardens are pumpkins and othervine crops and peas as theyrequire much more room. Sug-gested priorities are given in thetable on page 64.3. Perennials grow in the samearea for many years, so locate
these beds to one side of the garden
where they will not be disturbed.4. Sweet corn, climbing beans andstaked tomatoes should be grownon the south side of the gardenarea where they will not shade
low-growing crops.5 . It is easier to handle crops inlong rows, especially if motorised
garden equipment is to be used.Mixed crops can be grown in thesame long row or bed if necessary.6. Group the crops which matureduring the same season so thatafter they are harvested the landcan be prepared for another crop,or a green manure crop.7. Fence farm gardens with wire-netting to keep out stock andrabbits and allow wide headlandsbetween the fence and the gardenarea for the movement of imple-ments.8. Early crops should be plantedin higher and drier areas whilecelery and onions can be plantedin lower areas with reasonablesafety. Beans, especially peren-nial climbing types such as ScarletRunner, should be protected from
hot drying winds.
Crop rotationDifferent crops require differelevels of nutrition. Carrots aparsnips produce better qualcrops with smaller quantities fertiliser and become forked aout of shape if the roots are growin soil containing excessive qua
tities of organic matter. It is beto grow these root crops in sthat has been heavily manured fthe previous crop, and to whichsmall quantity of fertiliser hbeen added for the root crop.
Celery, beans, peas, cabbagcauliflower and Brussels sprouall require a fairly high level fertility. Leguminous crops anitrogen to the soil.
It is important to maintain
balance of plant nutrients in soil by rotating crops. Of eqimportance is the prevention disease and pest build-up in a pof ground. By rotating differtypes of crops in the same pthe chance of disease build-upreduced.
Vegetables can be consideredthe following groups for the pposes of planning a rotation, a
keeping in mind the previous rervations, any vegetable withingroup can be followed by oneany other group :
Winter greens: Broccoli, Brsels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflowsilver beet, spinach.
Salad greens: Endive, crelettuce, celery.
Legumes: Beans, peas.
Root and tubers: Beetroot, c
rot, parsnip, onion, turnip, sweturnip, potatoes and Jerusalartichokes.
Cucurbits: Cucumber, marropumpkin, squash, cantaloumelon.
Other vegetables: Tomatoes, eplant, capsicums, sween corn.
There are also perennial veetables which remain in the saplace for several years and cann
be rotated. These include as
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of crops enahles yorr to make the hesr rrse of rhe garden and 11c.lpsprevent the brcild-lrp of pests nnd diseases.
globe artichokes, rhubarb, flower part. Warm season cropsand herbs, and are best grown in are those which the edible part isan area to one side of the garden. a mature or immature fruit. PeasHerbs provide attractive edgings and broad beans (fruit) are ex -to beds. ceptions being cool season crops
and sweet potato (root) is a warm
Cool and warmseason cropsVegetables may be separated intocool and warm season crops. Cool
season vegetables generally areadapted to average temperaturesbelow 20C while warm seasoncrops grow best when the averageis above 20C. Cool season cropswill withstand slight freezingalthough some, such as potato, willbe damaged by frost. Warmseason crops are all damaged byfrost.
Cool season crops include thosewhere the edible portion is either
a root, stem, leaf or immature
season crop.These two large groups can be
further divided :Cool season crops
Tolerant to freezing. Intolerantto average temperatures above
24OC. Optimum monthly tem-peratures average from 16OC to18OC.Cabbage, beetroot, broadbeans, broccoli, Brusselssprouts, horseradish, pars-nip, radish, salsify, spinach,turnip.
Intolerant to frost near maturity.Intolerant to average tempera-tures above 24OC. Optimummonthly temperature average
from 16OC to 18OC.
Cauliflower, celery, celeriacarrot, endive, fennel, lettucmustard, parsley, pea, potatsilverbeet.
Tolerant to frost and adapteto average monthly tempertures from 13OC to 24OC.
Asparagus, chives, garlileek, onion, shallot.W m season crops
Intolerant to frost. Adapted an average monthly temperatu
of 18OC to 27OC.Bean, cantaloup, chokcucumber, capsicum, pumkin, sweet corn, squastomato.
e Intolerant to frost. Thrive temperatures above 2 1OC. Loseason crops.
Egg plant, okra, sweet potatwatermelon.
Remember this classificatiwhen planning sowing schedul
for your particular location.
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]Planting guide Australia and the Tablelands of south in the same district. CroNew South Wales. Zone 2, that are shaded for part of the dplantings to Your own (Northern and Wimmera) can be also take a longer time to maturrequirements. The following generally related to coastal areashelp You in deciding in South Australia other than the Planting tableswhat to plant and when to plant Lower South East and West Aus- By looking at the monthly columit. not plant out of seas0n? tralia and the western slopes of of the planting guide for your zon
Or grow more than You can New South Wales. Zone 3 on pages 11, 12 or 13, you w(Mallee), relates to most inland see at a glance which crops c
Climatic zones areas. be planted during any given monThe in Victoria has no district equiv- in each zone.broad the three main alent to ,the tropics and sub- A large proportion of failu'limatic 'Ones within which the tropical areas. In general the of vegetable crops in the homplanting times are growing season in tropical and sub- garden can be attributed to sowi
There of areas tropical areas is much longer in too early or too late, or plantiin each 'One, due local these areas but sowing dates must the wrong variety for the seasoconditions such as rain- be planned so that cool season In many cases several varieties aOr proximity the crops do not mature during the given as alternatives but which may differ from the genera' hottest months. Warm season attempt has been made to raconditions that 'One, and local crops. can-generally be grown year them in any order of preferen
experience will indicate any round. The h a 1 choice is yours.variation in planting times Or For detailed information on Planting tables showing sovarieties for such areas. sowing times and crop recorn- suitable home garden varieties Growers in other parts Of mendations in other parts ofAus- every vegetable grown in Victortralia can adapt this information tralia consult the local State De- the time they should be planteto their own district. In general partment of Agriculture. the spacing and method of plathe planting schedules for the cool ing, are on pages 114 to 119. Tzone also apply to Tasmania, the ~~~~~t planting distances shown are Lower East district of South Aspect is an important factor in minimum which will give the b
determining planting dates. results under home garden conEasterly and northerly slopes in dons. These are usually a lihill country will be a week or two less than for commercial croearlier than sites facing west or Don't overcrowd the plants.
Aguide to planling vegetables in Victoria. The map slzows the state divided intothree main growing zones.
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What can I sow this month?
Zone 1
For details of varieties and planting distances see pages 114 to 119.
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What can I sow this month?
Zone 2
For details of varieties and planting distances see pages 114 tc 119.
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What can I sow this month?
Zone 3
For details ofvarieties and planting distances see pages 114 to 119.
638/76.-3.