Chapter Objectives - Weebly

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Beyond Design

By Sandra J. Keiser and Myrna B. Garner

PowerPoint developed by Elizabeth Law

Line Development

Chapter 8 Beyond Design

Chapter 8: Line Development

© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 3

Chapter Objectives

•  Understand how line plan and trend forecast are interpreted into designs for focused groups with specific delivery dates

•  Understand limitations of legal protection for design of apparel

•  Understand difference between item lines and group lines


© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc.



Chapter Objectives

•  Understand parameters of line development

•  Understand how line assortment is balanced for production

•  Explore means used to communicate design ideas at various stages of the line development process





Approaches to Line Planning

•  Each garment designed part of a group that will be merchandised together on a selling floor, online, or in a catalog

•  Styles within each group must satisfy the brand’s range of customers—from the most conservative to the most fashion forward

•  Garments must meet customer’s brand expectations in terms of styling, fit, quality, and price






•  Seasonal line – consists of the overall collection of garments that will be offered for sale by a division or firm at a given time

•  Assortment plan – spells out expectations as to variety, volume, and distribution of the line, as well as balance of line (breadth and depth) – Helps designers to focus their efforts on items

most likely to succeed



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•  Each group should express a clear point of view, focusing on a relevant theme within customer constraints

•  Accurate communication and teamwork between merchandisers and designers = marketable line that supports brand goals






•  Companies that rely heavily on basics (Jockey Intl., Lands’ End) – Most specific plans – Historic seasonal data – Competitive edge from identifying right colors,

adopting most up-to-date fabric technology, or maintaining highest quality standards






•  Edgy product developers assume more risk in projecting what consumers will want

•  Merchandisers and designers more collaborative with input from sales, marketing, and/or key retail buyers

•  Constantly trying to shorten calendar






•  Minimize risk by finalizing specifics at last moment

•  Commit to only minimum fabric order, manufacturing capacity early on





Original Designs

•  Ideas may be sketched by hand or computer drawings

•  Ideas may be draped – More common for higher price points requiring

a custom-fit or fluid silhouette


© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 11 Chapter 8: Line

Development © 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of

Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 12

Style Modification

•  Bodies – Recurring styles from previous collections that sold well – Perfected patterns have been fit and graded;

changed to adapt for new details – Carryover bodies are very cost-efficient to

produce



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Knockoffs •  Garments adapted or modified from

products designed by other firms –  Pictures or actual product off the rack –  In U.S. legal - justified as paying homage to designers’

good ideas

•  Private label product developers are rethinking the merits of this derivative approach as a business strategy –  Many have set up sophisticated design departments to

develop their own silhouettes



Please note: Book states that knockoffs are legal. There is a bill in Congress as this is written to copyright garment designs. Therefore anything written here could be out of date by late 2009.



Knockoffs

•  Fast fashion chains (Zara, H&M) thrive on their ability to take an idea seen on designer runways and interpret it – Capacity to interpret in 2-6 weeks

•  Magazines (Lucky, InStyle) and Cable TV shows (The Look for Less) capitalize on the fast fashion promise





Knockoffs

•  Runway designers addressing the problem with diffusion lines (lower-priced lines adapted from their signature lines, ex. Alexander McQueen)

•  Co-branding or exclusive brand agreements with retailer (Stella McCartney)


© 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 15 Chapter 8: Line

Development © 2009 Fairchild Books, a division of

Condé Nast Publications, Inc. 16

Legal Protection for the Design of Apparel

•  Premise of fashion-basic elements constantly mixed and morphed into new combinations that reflect times

•  In spite of the lack of intellectual property protection for fashion, fashion companies continue to make money

•  Difficult to ascertain ownership of any design when fashion is so derivative





Copyright Protection

•  Copyright law - provides legal protection for authors of non-useful, original compositions

•  Denied to clothing because they are intrinsically useful articles; few exceptions





Copyright Protection

•  In the U.S., any work done while employed by a developer is owned by employer, (not employee), unless specific language is written into contract

•  The CFDA has been lobbying Congress to support a bill to offer copyright-like protection to clothing designs



Please note: Book states that knockoffs are legal. There is a bill in Congress as this is written to copyright garment designs. Therefore anything written here could be out of date by late 2009.

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Trademark and Trade Dress

•  Best legal strategy for designers to challenge knockoffs

•  Trademark - any word, name, symbol, device, or combination thereof …to identify goods (Nike “swoosh” logo); protects designer from unauthorized use

•  Trade dress – totality of elements in which product is packaged and presented





Organizing the Line

•  Product development teams are very focused so time is not wasted on items that may not be produced

•  Item Line Development - created around goods that are intended to be sold alone, one piece at a time; sportswear referred to as separates





Organizing the Line

•  Coordinated Group Lines - consist of items organized around fabric groups and intended to be purchased and worn together





Parameters of Line Development

•  Pricing – Part of brand’s identity – Determine where product will be sold, brands

it competes with, range of fabrics used, and who can afford to shop for it

– Consumers tend to assume that price is also indicative of quality—this may or may not be true






•  Pricing (cont’d.) – Affects volume that will be produced – Affects materials that can be used – Most seasonal lines include a few loss lead

items






•  Fashion Level – Customers return to brand when successful in

finding apparel that matches their fashion point of view

– Balance between basic and fashion goods varies from brand to brand •  Some brands rely on their fashion styles to

produce most of their volume •  Other brands rely on their basics



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•  Timing Considerations – Merchandise budget, line plan must consider

seasonal timing as it pertains to product category

– Weather and seasonal shopping habits may make certain categories more important •  Fall – coordinates •  Spring – dresses •  Back-to-school – children’s wear •  Holiday (before Thanksgiving) gifts, dressier items





Balancing the Line

•  Assortment Variety – style, size, color accounted for as stock-keeping unit (SKU)

•  Assortment Volume – demand for certain styles, sizes, and colors; product developer does not sell equal numbers of each style

•  Assortment Distribution – where each item will be sold





Communicating Design Concepts

•  Concept Boards –  Illustrate the line’s theme – Vary in complexity – Convey key colors, fabrics, silhouettes, and

details the designer has identified themes – Must communicate vision clearly – Once presented and approved, designing can

begin






•  Line Review – As group coalesces, once again presented for

line review with all silhouettes, color assortment, and fabrication

– Stakeholders make production decisions – Presentations in variety of forms






•  Flats – Once design reviewed and accepted into line,

technical design department develops spec flat or technical flat •  Technical flats – define proportions, details, and

construction required for production •  Complex details may be enlarged in a separate

callout that magnifies area for clarity for patternmaker or sewer



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