Why soil is important - Your vegetable gardening helper · Soil is the upper layer of the earth’s surface and it is made of organic matter, minerals, and microorganisms, which are

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Why is Soil so Important Tips for Amending and Fertilizing By Catherine Abbott

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Chapter 1 - Garden Soil What is garden soil? Why is healthy soil so important? What type of soil do you have? Should I get my soil tested? Soil preparation Chapter 2 – Soil Nutrients Soil Nutrients: what do plants need? Table 1: Vegetables grouped by nutrient demands What is soil pH and why is it important? Table 2: pH requirements for veggies Chapter 3 – Soil Fertilizers What are soil fertilizers? What are pesticides? What is organic versus non organic? Fertilize your veggie plants. Common fertilizers to maintain healthy soil. Table 3: Fertilizer Requirements per 100 square feet. Table 4: Fertilizing Chart for Common Vegetables. Chapter 4 – Adding Organic Matter What is organic matter? Why is organic material so important? Organic amendments: what types are there? Which animal manure is better? Chapter 5- Composting What is compost? Benefits to composting. Making compost. Steps to building a compost pile. Appendix A - Nutrient deficiency symptoms Appendix B - Fertilizing teas recipes

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Chapter 1 – Garden Soil What is garden soil? Soil is the upper layer of the earth’s surface and it is made of organic matter, minerals, and microorganisms, which are all needed to support plant life. Soil has a combination of soil particles, organic matter and humus, water, and air. Soil particles are the mineral materials that have been broken down into pieces smaller than pebbles. The organic matter and humus are made from decaying organisms, mainly plants that are at various stages of decomposition. About half of soil is made of solid particles with the rest of the space being filled with air and water. Growing healthy, disease free vegetables require nutrient-rich soil. All plants, especially vegetables for harvesting, have certain requirements so they can grow strong stems, produce flowers, seeds, and fruits. Soil structure and nutrient levels are naturally depleted by tillage (digging and turning, whether by hand or machine), soil erosion from the wind or rain, too little or too much moisture, and soil compaction. The plants themselves also deplete soil nutrients, although many plants, including some we consider to be weeds, can actually improve the soil by pulling up nutrients from deep below the surface. Why is healthy soil so important? Garden soil is important because it supports vegetable plants by providing them with nutrients, warmth, air circulation, and moisture needed to grow to maturity. The nutrients found in soil feed the plants so they will grow healthy and strong. Soil absorbs sunlight, and retains the warmth needed for seeds to germinate and grow. Air space between soil particles is needed so that oxygen and carbon dioxide can move freely in and out of the soil; both of these are needed for vegetable plant roots to grow. Soil can get compacted by machinery or even by being walked on, which inhibits air circulation. Moisture is another very important aspect to soil. The water in the soil encases the soil particles and dissolves them, enabling the vegetable plant to absorb the nutrients through the water. If the soil gets too wet it becomes saturated and does not leave any room for the oxygen and carbon dioxide, which in turn prevents the nutrients in the soil particles from reaching the plant roots. Your soil needs a healthy balance of soil particles, organic material, and water and air circulation so they get the oxygen, moisture, and nutrients needed to grow to maturity. Soil Tip #1 The types of weeds growing in your garden are a good indication of how the type and health of your soil. Some common weeds that indicate you have rich soil are burdock, ground ivy, lamb’s quarters, pigweed, and purslane. Some weeds that indicate you have poorly drained soil are curly dock, hedge bindweed, sheep sorrel and smartweed.

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What type of soil do you have? Vegetables require soil that is rich in nutrients, is easy to dig, will hold moisture, and also has good drainage so as not to get too wet. There are 4 main types of soil: sand, silt, clay, and loam. Here is a list of benefits of each type. Sandy soil characteristics

• In true form it is the exact opposite to clay soil. • Particles are large and do not bind together. • Warmest type of soil; which can be a benefit for some vegetables. • Does not hold water well. • Does not hold nutrients well.

Silt soil characteristics • Has an intermediate sized particle. • Drains better than clay soil. • Holds more nutrients than sandy soil. • Is usually lacking in humus (decomposed organic matter).

Clay soil characteristics

• Particles are tiny; bind together making it heavy and difficult to work. • Is usually a cold soil, which may promote slower plant growth. • Often richer in nutrients than sandy soils. • Retains water however can often become waterlogged. • Has poor drainage. • Deficient in air — plants may not get enough oxygen due to easy compaction. • May be beneficial in hot dry season, as it will retain moisture for longer periods. • Gardening in clay soil can be difficult.

Loam soil characteristics

• A mixture of sand, silt and clay is ideal for a vegetable garden. This ideal structure is defined as loam soil.

Most garden soils have a combination of all four types, with one being more dominate than the others. Knowing the type of soil you are starting with enables you to plan what is best needed to grow your vegetables. Determine your soil type:

1. Put a small amount of your garden soil into the palm of your hand. 2. Add a bit of water to it. 3. Rub some of the soil between your fingers and if it is:

a. Gritty it has high sand content b. Soapy it is silt c. Sticky and can be rolled into a thin rope it is clay soil.

It is not necessary for your vegetable garden to have consistent soil over the whole area. Different vegetables require different amounts of heat, water and nutrients; therefore varying types of soil is a good thing. Do not worry if your soil it not the ideal loam as your soil can always be improved.

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Should I get my soil tested? Soil testing is an important step in determining what vegetables will grow best for you. It will also give you an indication in what is needed to improve your soil fertility and soil structure. There are fairly inexpensive soil test kits found in most nurseries or garden centers. These tests are often subject to personal interpretation; however this can be a starting point in getting a general picture of your soil pH and fertility. For a more accurate or scientific approach, sending a soil sample to a soil-testing laboratory in your area will give you detailed information. This is a good step for a new gardener to quickly get to know what their soil needs to get the best results from their veggie patch. Soil Tip #2 What information will you get from a soil test? It will tell you what your soil pH number is, as well as the level of nutrients such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and calcium in your soil. The test report will also give recommendations about how much of each of the above minerals will need to be added for optimum soil conditions for growing certain vegetables. How do I do a soil test? You will want to get some samples from several areas of your garden (at least 4 different areas of your garden) as each area can have a slightly different requirement so it is best to get a combination for your test. Dig a hole six to twelve inches deep and take a small sample from the sides and bottom of the hole (about 1 cup). Place all the samples into one clean bucket and mix it thoroughly. Now take the required amount for your test from this bucket. You can do soil tests yourself or send the soil sample to a laboratory; either will give you some indication of what you will need to add to your soil to have an abundant vegetable harvest.

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Chapter 2 – Soil Nutrients Soil Nutrients – what do plants need? Vegetable plants require 3 basic nutrients to grow well: Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K). They also need a variety of other trace minerals, which are often found naturally in the soil in the required amounts. Here are some details and the plant requirements of the 3 main nutrients: Nitrogen

• Promotes leaf and stem growth. • Gives plants the green color. • Controls oxygen levels in plants. • Plants need and use a large amount. • Leaches with rainfall.

Phosphorus

• Promotes seed germination, fruit growth, flowering and healthy roots. • Gives winter hardiness to fall plantings. • Plants need this in reasonable amounts.

Potassium (Potash)

• Promotes young leaves and buds, root growth and seed production. • Improves the flavor of fruit and vegetables.

Trace Elements: There are 8 common trace elements needed for good plant growth:

• Calcium - is the foundation for cells in the plant’s structure, just like bones in humans.

• Sulfur – helps to balance pH. • Iron - regulates photosynthesis and carries oxygen. • Boron • Copper - is important for production of chlorophyll, enzymes and is an electron

carrier. • Manganese - helps to speed up plant reactions and works with calcium. • Molybdenum - is a catalyst for enzymes and assists in nitrogen activity in the

plant. • Magnesium - used in making chlorophyll and is essential for taking in carbon

dioxide. It also carries phosphorus in the plant. The amount needed of these trace elements for growing vegetables is very small, and sufficient amounts are usually found naturally in most soils. Deficiencies are rare; a detailed soil test (performed by a laboratory) will tell you if your soil is deficient in any of these.

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Soil Tip #3 Vegetable plants that need very fertile soil to grow well (“heavy feeders”), often require feeding at least twice during the growing season. Lighter feeders need a high level to begin with; however one more feeding during the growing season is often sufficient. Cleaners are great plants to use in your crop rotation in between the different heavy feeders. TABLE 1: Vegetables Grouped by Nutrient Demands  Leafy crops Need high nitrogen (N)

Roots crops Need high phosphorus (P)

Fruit forming crops Need high potassium (K)

Cleaners & Builders

Heavy feeders: Lettuce Salad greens Chicory Spinach

Heavy feeders: Onions Shallots Garlic Scallions Leeks

Heavy feeders: Squash Cucumber Melons Pumpkins

Cleaners: Corn Potatoes

Lighter feeders: Broccoli Cabbage Cauliflower Kale

Lighter feeders: Carrots Beets Turnips Radishes

Lighter feeders: Tomatoes Peppers Eggplants

Builders: Beans Peas

What is soil pH? This is a numerical symbol that tells how much acid or alkaline is in your soil. The pH scale range is zero (which is acidic) to 14 (which is alkaline) with 7 being neutral. Most vegetables grow best between 6 and 7, which is slightly acidic. If soil is too acidic it will be infertile; if too alkaline the soil becomes toxic and will poison plants. Areas with lots of rainfall are more likely to have acidic soil, because rain tends to wash away calcium and magnesium, which lowers the pH level. Areas with less rain are usually more alkaline. If you have acidic soil: Lime is used to increase the pH in acidic soil. There are two basic types of lime. The first is called agricultural lime, which only contains calcium and dolomite lime. The second is dolomite lime, which contains both calcium and magnesium. Most home gardeners can use either, however dolomite is often cheaper and more obtainable. Again, a detailed soil test will tell you if your soil already has optimum magnesium and if it does it would be best to use the agricultural lime.

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How much do you add in? These are approximate amounts to raise the pH by 1 point:

• If you have mainly sandy soil, add in 5 pounds per 100 square feet. • If you have a loam soil, add 6 pounds per 100 square feet. • If you have a silt or clay soil, add 8 pounds per 100 square feet.

If you have alkaline soil: To correct soil that is too alkaline you will need to add powdered sulfur. How much sulphur to add? These are approximate amounts to lower the pH by 1 point.

• If you have mainly sandy soil, add 1 pound per 100 square feet. • If you have a loam soil, add 1.5 pounds per 100 square feet. • If you have a silt or clay soil, add 2 pounds per 100 square feet.

Both lime (calcium) and sulfur are considered soil conditioners. It is important to add either separately from soil fertilizers, well before planting. Ideally you should add the lime or sulfur 2-4 weeks before you fertilize. When adding lime and sulfur to your garden beds make sure you rake it evenly into the soil. If your soil is extremely acidic or alkaline make an application in the spring and another one in the fall so as not to give the soil too much all at once. It can take a few seasons to get to the optimum pH number you want. Table 2: PH requirements for some common vegetables pH level Vegetable

Above 7 Asparagus

6-7 Celery, beets, peas, onions, lettuce, spinach, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, peppers, carrots

5-6 Chard, cucumber, rhubarb, squash, beans, turnips, tomatoes, raspberries

4-5 Strawberries, potatoes, blueberries The proper pH level in your soil:

• Speeds up the decay of organic matter in the soil. • Makes phosphates in the soil more available to plants. • Improves soil structure (when added to clay soil it can improve drainage). • Discourages pests and diseases, for example slugs and club root.

Proper soil management is important in keeping your garden soil sustainable for future growing. Plants take what they need from the soil and will naturally deplete the nutrients, so it is important to regularly feed your soil. Adding nitrogen is especially important. A better option if your soil is only slightly low in nitrogen is to grow legume

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crops such as clover, alfalfa, field peas, or soybeans. Legume plants help to “fix” nitrogen into the soil by plants pulling the nitrogen from the air and dispersing it from their roots. Adding phosphorus and potassium to improve soil enables vegetable plants to grow well. Having proper soil pH for the plants you are growing is also essential for healthy growth. Rotating crops, leaving land to rest with cover crops, and adding in organic matter as well as organic fertilizers and conditioners are all ways to help replenish soil nutrients. Soil Tip #4 The best way to fix the problem of these symptoms is to correct the reason they are happening, such as raising or lowering the pH level, adding organic matter, improving soil drainage, and adding the proper amounts of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium to meet soil requirements.

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Chapter 3 – Soil Fertilizers What are soil fertilizers? Soil fertilizers are “Natural or artificial substances containing the chemical elements that improve growth and productiveness of plants. Fertilizers enhance the natural fertility of the soil or replace the chemical elements taken from the soil by previous crops.” (Definition from Britannia Concise Encyclopedia). What are pesticides? Chemical   products   used   to   reduce   or   eliminate   unwanted   organisms,   regarded   as  "pests".    Pesticides  are  often  used  on  gardens,  agricultural  land,  roadsides,  and  golf  courses  to  eliminate  species  considered  undesirable  or  damaging.   What is organic versus non organic? There are two fertilizing categories: organic and inorganic. There has been a lot of debate regarding which is better. The choice of which you use is a personal preference. I personally believe in and have had best results by following organic practices.

Organic soil fertilizers: § Some examples are cottonseed meal, blood meal, bone meal, rock

phosphate, and greensand, which are all natural products harvested from the earth.

§ Each of these is high in one of the major nutrients in your soil. § These are often slow release, which takes longer to reach your

plants, however they are improving your garden soil at the same time.

Inorganic soil fertilizers: § Called chemical fertilizers and are man made. § These are slow or time released. § Can often reach the plant quicker than organic fertilizers, however

they do not improve your soil fertility as they just feed the plant not the soil.

Fertilize your veggie plants. The first requirement is to find out what your garden soil needs; this can be done by doing a soil test or by closely observing your plants for signs of what your soil might be deficient in. See chapter 2 for more details. Regular fertilization is required, as plants will use what nutrients are in the soil. Spring is one of the best times to add fertilizers to your garden beds. If you are a first time gardener or have not had your soil tested, get one done to find out what your soil needs are. See chapter 1 for more details. For the backyard gardener soils test once every several years is probably sufficient; if you are a commercial gardener once every few years is pretty standard. Once you know what is deficient in your soil, measure the proper amounts of the soil fertilizers and till or dig the fertilizer into the beds. It is best if you till to a depth of 8 to 12 inches so that the plant roots will reach the fertilizer.

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When to fertilize? There are two main times of the year you will want to fertilize your soil so your vegetable plants with grow well:

1. Fertilize before planting the vegetable seed or transplant by digging in organic fertilizers.

2. During  the  growing  season  you  can  add  compost  or  dry  fertilizers  around  the  base  of  plants,  or  make  your  own  compost, manure, or seaweed teas.

Common Fertilizers to maintain healthy garden soil. Nitrogen Sources of:

• Blood meal, alfalfa meal, cotton seed, fish meal, cocoa shells, animal manures Signs of deficiency:

• Leaves are yellowing and falling off. • Stunted growth.

Signs of excess: • Grows really fast but is spindly. • Plants do not produce any flowers.

How much to add per year? • If your soil is low in nitrogen add 5 pounds per 100 square feet • If your soil has an average amount nitrogen add 2.5 pounds per 100 square feet • To maintain an optimum level of nitrogen add 1 pound per 100 square feet

Phosphorus Sources of:

• Bone meal, rock phosphate, animal manures, fish emulsion. Signs of deficiency:

• Dull green leaves with purplish tints. • Stunted growth.

Signs of excess: • If there is excess it will generally not affect the plant or soil.

How much to add per year? • If your soil is low in phosphorus add 6 pounds per 100 square feet. • If your soil has an average phosphorus level add 2.5 pounds per 100 square feet • To maintain an optimum level of phosphorus add 1 pound per 100 square feet

Potassium Sources of:

• Potash rock, wood ash, greensand. Signs of deficiency:

• Loss in color particularly in the vein structure. • Brown spotted on the underside of leaves. • Short and stocky plants.

Signs of excess: • If there is excess it will generally not affect the plant or soil.

How much to add per year? • If your soil is low in potassium add 10 pounds per 100 square feet.

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• If your soil has average potassium add 5 pounds per 100 square feet. • To maintain optimum level of potassium add 2.5 pounds per 100 square feet.

TABLE 3: Fertilizer requirements per 100 square feet. Fertilizer Amount per 100 square feet

Nitrogen Blood Meal Alfalfa Meal

2 cup 3 pounds

Phosphorus Bone Meal Rock Phosphate

4 cups 4 pounds

Potassium Kelp Meal Sul po Mag (langbeinite) Green sand Fireplace ashes

1 pound 2 cups 3 pounds Spread thinly, mix with compost

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TABLE 4: Fertilizing Chart for Common Vegetables VEGETABLE WHEN TO FERTILIZE Beans After heavy bloom and set of pods. Beets At time of planting. Broccoli Three weeks after transplanting. Brussels sprouts Three weeks after transplanting. Cabbage Three weeks after transplanting. Carrots Preferably in the fall for the following spring

planting. Cauliflower Three weeks after transplanting. Celery At times of transplanting. Corn When plants are eight to ten inches tall, and

again when first silk appears. Cucumbers One week after bloom, and again three weeks

later. Lettuce Two to three weeks after transplanting. Melons One week after bloom, and again three weeks

later. Onion sets When bulbs begin to swell, and again when

plants are one foot tall. Parsnips One year before planting. Peas After heavy bloom and set of pods. Peppers At first bloom and after first fruit sets. Potato At bloom time or time of second hilling. Pumpkins Just before vines start to run, usually when

plants are about one foot tall. Radishes Before spring planting. Spinach When plants are one-third grown. Squash, summer Just before vines start to run, usually when

plants are about one foot tall Squash, winter Just before vines start to run, usually when

plants are about one foot tall Tomatoes Two weeks before, and after first picking.

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Chapter 4 – Adding Organic Matter What is organic matter? Organic matter is defined as materials and debris that originated as living plants or animals. Few of us have ideal garden soil, however by adding in soil amendments you can improve the structure and texture of your garden soil you have. If you have clay soil it can stay water logged and is often very heavy; therefore adding in organic matter will lighten the soil allowing your plants to access the nutrients much easier. If you have a very sandy soil it is very light and water will tend to drain out quickly, taking the nutrients in the soil along with it. By adding in organic matter to sandy soil you are helping to keep the nutrients and water available for your vegetable plants to access them. Even if you have an ideal silty, humus type soil, adding organic matter is necessary to keep your soil structure and the nutrients in the soil from depleting. Why is organic matter so important? Organic matter will change the physical structure of your garden soil:

• By adding bulk • Helps retain moisture • Improves the ease in which soil can be tilled • Supplies nutrients

It is recommended to add in 3 - 4 inches of organic matter to your garden beds each year. This will give you a healthier and more productive vegetable garden. Organic amendments: what types are there? The following list of soil amendments is some examples of materials used to build and maintain a healthy organic soil.

• Compost: a. Will add organic matter to your soil. b. Often does not have lots of nutrients but has beneficial microorganisms. c. Can be made in a compost bin in your backyard, in worm composting bins

or purchased.

• Peat moss: a. Will help increase moisture retention and improve sandy soil. b. Easily found in most nurseries and is fairly inexpensive.

• Animal manures:

a. Will add some nutrients and bulk to your soil. b. Steer, horse, pig, poultry, llama, and rabbit are some examples. c. Use well rotted manures; fresh manures will burn plants. (Use fresh

manure in fertilizer teas, or in compost that will sit for at least 6 months). d. Completely dig it into your garden. Animal manures often contain weed

seeds, which will grow if not turned under. e. Dried manure can be purchased bagged at most plant nurseries. f. The best time to apply is in the fall or very early in the spring.

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• Seaweed: a. Will add nitrogen, potash and trace minerals to your soil. b. Fresh seaweed can be collected from the beach; be mindful of how much

you are collecting as it is supporting living organisms in our oceans as well. It is usually more plentiful in the fall.

c. Use it as mulch on your garden beds, chop it up and dig into the soil, add it to your compost pile or make fertilizer tea.

d. Dried seaweed can be purchased in most plant nurseries.

• Sawdust, wood chips or straw: a. Will add bulk to your soil. b. Suited for clay soil, as these materials will lighten the soil texture. c. These materials will use up nitrogen as they decompose so you may need

to add in more nitrogen to your soil. Check out the chapter on soil nutrients for more information.

d. Local sawmills, tree trimmers, or landscapers will often give sawdust or wood chips away for free.

e. They can also be purchased at most plant nurseries.

• Green manures: a. These are plants usually grown in the fall after you have harvested your

vegetables for the season. They grow through the fall and winter and are tilled under in the early spring. Green manures often known as cover crops.

b. Some common examples of plants grown as green manures are buckwheat, clover, fava beans, fall rye, field peas, hairy vetch, and oats.

c. These materials after being tilled under will add bulk to your soil, which can improve drainage and aeration.

d. Varieties from the bean or peas families will add nitrogen to your soil by pulling from the air and fixing it through their root systems.

e. Will protect bare soil so it does not blow away with the wind or leach with excess rainfall.

Which animal manure is better?

• Horse: a. Decomposes quickly. b. Does not have long lasting effect on the soil. c. Use for quick growing crops such as lettuce, radishes, and salad greens.

• Pig:

a. This type has slightly more nutrients than horse manure. b. Less organic matter than horse manure. c. Takes longer to decompose (mix with straw to increase the rate of

decomposition). d. Benefits slow growing plants like onions and squash. e. Will benefit sandy soil.

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• Poultry (chicken manure is most common): a. Very concentrated and quick acting. b. Adds no bulk to soil, as it is not often mixed with any other kind of matter

such as wood chips or straw as most horse manure is. c. Has the maximum benefit if mixed with peat moss or straw. d. Adding in small amount will be beneficially to your compost. e. Dried poultry manure can be used to side dress your plants.

• Cow:

a. Decomposes quickly. b. Use “hot” manure for fertilizer teas. c. Usually easy to come by.

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Chapter 5 – Composting What is compost? Composting  is  a  natural  process  where  organisms  and  bacteria  break  down  organic  matter   into   a   rich  dark   soil  material.   This   can  be   added   to   your   vegetable   garden  beds  or  garden  pots  to  enrich  the  soil  fertility  and  help  prevent  soil  erosion.        The  easiest  way  to  make  compost  is  to  simply  create  a  pile  of  garden  waste,  garden  debris  and  straw  or  leaves  in  the  corner  of  your  yard.    Many  people  are  concerned  that  a  compost  bin  will  attract  animals   to   their  garden.    A  well-­‐built  and  managed  compost  pile  should  not  attract  or  at  least  withstand  most  animals.    If  this  is  a  real  concern  try  burying  your  kitchen  waste  right  into  your  garden  bed.    There   are   many   different   types   of   compost   bins   that   you   can   purchase.     If   you  choose  to  make  your  own,  the  most  common  is  a  structure  made  of  wood,  or  wood  and  chicken  wire.    In  our  backyard  we  built  a  3-­‐compartment  unit,  with  removable  front   and   lid.     At  my   commercial   organic   garden   I   used  wooden   shipping   pallets,  which   make   a   good-­‐sized   bin,   easy   to   move   and   were   free   at   the   local   building  supply  store.    Choosing  the  type  of  bin  you  want  to  use  will  depend  on  the  area  you  have  to  start  compost,  the  amount  of  matter  you  have  to  add  to  it,  and  the  amount  of  time  and  energy  you  want  to  put  into  it.    Benefits to making compost. Composting your kitchen and garden waste keeps it out of our already overflowing landfills. By doing so we are doing our small part in supporting a cleaner environment. Making compost and using it in your vegetable garden has many positive benefits as well.

• You   create  organic  matter   from  your  waste,  which   can  be  used   to   improve  soil  structure  in  your  garden.  

• Adding  compost   to  your  garden  beds  will  help   to   retain  water,  especially   if  you  have  sandy  type  soil.  

• Adding  compost  to  your  garden  beds  can  enhance  soil  aeration,  especially  in  clay  type  soil,  which  compacts  easily.  

• Compost  will  add  nutrients  to  the  soil.  • The   organic   matter   creates   healthy   conditions   for   soil   organisms   like  

earthworm.    

Making compost. The  best  time  to  start  making  a  compost  pile  is  in  the  spring  or  fall.    Heat  or  cold  can  slow  down   the  decomposition  process   however   there   is   really   no  bad   time   to   get  started.    For  best  results,  the  minimum  size  of  your  pile  should  reach  3  feet  by  3  feet  and  then  let  it  sit  for  a  few  months  to  break  down  completely  –  do  not  forget  to  turn  it  a  few  times.    By  regularly  turning  your  pile  you  are  allowing  air  to  flow  through  the  mixture,  which  will  help  the  decomposition  process.    Keep  your  pile  covered  as  the  sun  will  dry  out  your  pile  and  the  rain  can  make  it  too  wet.    This  means  you  also  will   need   to  water   your   pile.   You   do   not  want   it   to   dry   out,   as   this   will   stop   the  decomposition  process.      To  test   to  see   if  your  pile   is  moist  enough  take  a  handful  

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from  the  middle  of  your  pile;  it  should  crumble  easily.    If  it  forms  into  a  ball  it  is  too  wet.    If  this  is  the  case  turn  the  pile  and  add  in  more  dry  material  such  as  shredded  leaves  or  straw.    Your  compost   is   ready   to  use  when   it   is  a  dark  rich  color,   smells  good  and  crumbles  in  your  hands.    Use  a  variety  of  material  with  different  textures  when  building  your  compost.  A  pile  of  one   item  —grass  cuttings   for  example  —  will   take  a   long  time  to  decompose.   If  you  are  making  it  over  time,  remember  that  each  time  you  put  in  kitchen  scraps  or  other  green  matter  material  make  sure  you  add  an  equal  amount  of  brown  material  such  as  straw  or  leaves.    The  ratio  of  nitrogen  (green  material)  and  carbon  (brown  material)  is  important  for  each   to   break   down   quickly.   Nitrogen   materials   will   decompose   in   a   few   weeks,  however   will   attract   flies   and   have   a   strong   odor   if   there   is   too   much   of   them.    Carbon  materials  will  take  months  or  sometimes  years  to  breakdown,  however  with  the  correct  combination  everything  will  break  down  in  a  few  months.    The  smaller  the  carbon  or  brown  materials  are   the  quicker   they  will  break  down  so  shredding  larger  pieces  is  a  great  option.    List  of  common  carbon  or  brown  materials  for  your  compost:  

o Thick  vegetable  stems  like  broccoli,  corn  stalks  o Sawdust  o Dry  leaves  o Wood  shavings  o Straw  o Hay  o Twigs  o Newspaper  

 List  of  common  nitrogen  or  green  materials  for  your  compost:  

o Cut  grass  o Fresh  animal  manure  (usually  in  small  quantities).  o Vegetable  kitchen  waste.  o Green  vegetation  from  your  garden.    o Organic   soil   fertilizers   like   blood   meal,   alfalfa   meal   and   fishmeal.  

(These  can  be  lightly  spread  on  each  layer  especially  if  the  pile  has  lots  of  carbon  material).  

o  Steps  to  building  a  compost  pile  

1. Loosen   the   soil   about   12   inches  deep   in   the   area  where   you  will  make   the  pile,  this  can  be  done  by  using  a  garden  fork  or  spade  to  break  up  any  hard  soil  in  the  area.    This  will  help  organisms  in  the  soil  to  enter  your  pile.  

2. Lay  down  about  6  inches  of  carbon  matter  –  such  as  corn  stalks,  small  sticks,  or   straw.     If   you   can   shred   the   larger   pieces   so   they  will   decompose  more  quickly.  

3. Then   lay   done   about   2   inches   of   garden   waste   –   such   as   leaves,   grass  clippings,  green  vegetation  and  manures.  

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4. Save   your   kitchen  waste   (no  meat   products)   and   put   this   over   the   garden  waste.  

5. Put  on  a  thin  layer  of  soil.  This  helps  keep  away  the  flies  and  odor.  6. Repeat  steps  2  to  5.    7. Once  the  pile  reaches  3-­‐6  feet  high  let  is  sit  for  3-­‐6  months.  8. Start  building  a  new  pile.  9. To  quicken  the  process  turn  the  pile  every  3-­‐4  weeks.  The  easiest  way  to  do  

this  is  move  it  to  a  new  area.  10. Water  the  pile  regularly  as  a  properly  moist  pile  will  decompose  quicker.  11. Over  time  the  pile  will  reduce  to  about  half  the  original  size  and  once  it  is  a  

rich  brown  color  and  smells  earthy  it  is  time  to  spread  it  on  your  beds.    

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APPENDIX A: Nutrient Deficiency Symptoms Symptom Nutrient lacking Reason it is occurring Light green or yellowish older foliage.

Nitrogen Excessive leaching.

Stunted plants Purplish leaves

Phosphorus Cold, wet soil in spring. Low pH.

Brown leaf margins Leaf Curling

Potassium Light soils with excessive leaching.

Stunted plants Stubby roots Blossom end rot of tomato Tip burn of cabbage & lettuce Brown heart of escarole Celery black heat Carrot cavity spot

Calcium Very acidic soil. Soil too high in potassium. Excessively dry of wet soils.

Yellowing between veins of older leaves.

Magnesium Light acidic soils. Soil too high in potassium.

Yellowing of young leaves Stunted plants

Sulfur Low organic matter. Too sandy of soil.

Growing tips die back. Leave are distorted. Center of brassica or crucifer stems become hollow and brown.

Boron Soil pH above 6.8 or below 5.5 Some plants require high boron such as beets and brassicas Too sandy of soil with low organic matter.

Yellowing leaves, which become thin and elongated. Soft onion bulbs

Copper Mostly due to muck soils. High pH soils.

Light green or yellow foliage on youngest leaves

Iron Soil above 6.8. Low organic matter. Excessive Phosphorus.

Rust colored spots on seed leaves of beans. Green and yellow striping of corn. Yellowing of beet leaves.

Zinc High pH. Low organic matter. Cool wet soils in the spring. May be related to high phosphorus fertilization.

Mottled yellow areas appearing on younger leaves. In beets, foliage becomes deeply red.

Manganese Soil ph is above 6.5.

Distorted, narrow leaves. Some yellowing of older leaves. Whiptail leaf symptoms in cauliflower or cabbage. Leaf edges are curled and ruffled.

Molybdenum Very acidic soils

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APPENDIX B: Fertilizer Tea Recipes Organic fertilizer tea can be made with compost, animal manure or green matter such as comfrey or stinging nettles. These teas have concentrated nutrients that are beneficial to your garden soil and vegetable plant growth. Benefits:

• Makes your compost or animal manure go further especially if you only have a limited amount.

• Gives your vegetable plants and the soil nutrients they can use to boost growth. • Can reduce transplant shock when given to young transplants when they are first

planted. • Can control pests, insects and disease on your vegetable plants. • Using plants that can be a garden intrusion such as comfrey or borage to make an

organic fertilizer tea. Recipes "Compost or Manure" Tea: Items required: 1-bucket “hot” compost or animal manure (minimum amount) Fill a bucket or garbage can 1/3 full of fresh compost or animal manure (do not use cat, dog, pig or human waste) and then fill it full of water. Mix well, cover and let it sit overnight. This makes a rich brown liquid that can be diluted in the watering can or put directly onto your young seedlings, fruiting vegetables or in your containers and hanging baskets. Once you use up the entire liquid, refill the bucket or garbage can with more water. It can be refilled two or three times until the liquid is no longer a rich brown color. Put the left over sludge from the bottom of the bucket on to your compost pile and start over again with fresh manure or compost. "Green" Tea Items required: 1 bucket green matter such as comfrey, borage, stinging nettles, Lucerne, grass clippings (or a combination). Take a large bucket with a lid and throw in comfrey, borage, stinging nettles, Lucerne hay, grass clippings or a combination of all of these. For 1 part of green matter add 10 parts water. Cover the container with a lid. When the water is a rich brown or yellowish color it is ready to use, usually within a few days. As you use up the liquid keep adding more water until it no longer turns the brown or yellowish color. The sludge at the bottom is great to add to your compost pile or to put directly on your garden beds then start a new batch.