Travel in Taiwan (No.45, 2011 5/6)

Back to NatureEco-Exploration in Southwest Taiwan

THE BEST ROUTES From the Easternmost to the Northernmost Tip

HISTORYLegacy of the Japanese

Presence In Hualien

TEA COUNTRYWhy Pinglin is All

about Tea

No. 45, 201156

Weaving in WulaiCafés and Teashops of Kang Qing Long

Hakka Tung Blossom FestivalPerformance Workshop Troupe

The Official Bimonthly English Magazine of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau.Website: ht tp://taiwan. net .t w I S B N : 1 8 1 7 7 9 6 4

/

Welcome to Taiwan!

Dear Traveler,

A mountainous subtropical island, Taiwan is blessed w ith an incredibly diverse natural

environment that makes it a great destination for travelers in search of ecological treasures. There

is much to discover indeed, especially when it comes to birds and butterf lies, with more than 400

species of each to be found. Conserving the local natural environment is taken seriously here, with

effective measures in place to protect endangered f lora and fauna and to educate the people about

the importance of a healthy natural environment.

Since 1979 eight national parks and 13 national scenic areas have been established in Taiwan to

protect the most precious areas and at the same time make them accessible to visitors. The Dapeng

Bay National Scenic Area is one example of how the coexistence of the natural environment and

human recreation can be realized; its saltwater lagoon and small offshore coral island offer visitors

a wide range of recreational activities and eco-exploration tours.

If you want to f ind out why many couples in love choose the north and northeast coast of

Taiwan as their preferred destination for wedding-photo shoots, just follow the coast-hugging

highway to explore the region’s many scenic spots. You’ll come across picturesque lighthouses on

craggy promontories, white-sand beaches suitable for all sorts of water activities, stretches of coast

with bizarre rock formations, and small f ishing villages with excellent seafood restaurants.

Hual ien is best known for its world-class scenic wonder, Taroko Gorge, a must-see for any

visitor to Taiwan. Apart from its natural scenery, however, Hualien also has its share of cultural

attractions, notably those of the region’s indigenous peoples but also rel ics lef t behind by the

Japanese, who ruled the island for most of the f irst half of the last century. There are many

historic sites to be explored and old stories of the Japanese in eastern Taiwan to be heard.

Wherever you go on your next trip to Taiwan and whatever you do, I wish you a pleasure-f illed

experience!

Janice Seh-Jen Lai

Director GeneralTourism Bureau, MOTC, R.O.C.

台 灣 觀 光 雙 月 刊

Travel in Taiwan BimonthlyMay/June Issue, 2011www.tit.com.tw/vision/index.htmCopyright © 2011 Tourism Bureau. All rights reserved. Reproduction in any form without written permission is prohibited.

Publisher Janice Seh-Jen Lai editing Consultants

David W. J. Hsieh, Wayne Hsi-Lin LiuPublishing organization Tourism Bureau, Ministry of Transportation and Communicationsaddress 9F, 290 Zhongxiao E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei, 104, Taiwan Tel: 886-2-2717-3737 Fax: 886-2-2771-7036 E-mail: [email protected] Website: http://taiwan.net.tw

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address Rm. 5, 10F, 2 Fuxing N. Rd., Taipei, 104 Taiwan tel: 886-2-2711-5403 Fax: 886-2-2721-2790

e-mail: [email protected] Manager Wendy L. C. Yen dePuty general Manager Frank K. Yeneditor in Chief Johannes Twellmann english editors Rick Charette, Richard Saunders dir. of Planning & editing Joe LeeManaging editor Sunny Su editors Aska Chi, Aysel Then, Gemma Cheng, Min-Jing Yin, Vivian LiuContributors Rick Charette, Steven Crook, Richard Saunders, Joe Henley, Linda Chu, Christine HarrisPhotograPhers Jen Guo-Chen, Bobby Wu, Audrey Wang art direCtor Sting Chen designers Ting Ting Wang, Daemon Lee, Maggie Song, Rinka LinadMinistrative dePt Hui-chun Tsai, Nai-jen Liu, Xiou Mieng Jiang advertising dePt Vincent Lin, Pamela Leu, Stacy Cai, Mamie Yang, Paul H. Chang advertising hotline + 886-2-2721-5412

CONTENTS May ~ June 2011

28

8

Where you can pick up a copy of Travel in TaiWan abroadOffices of the Tourism Bureau in Tokyo, Osaka, Seoul, Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Frankfurt; Taiwan Representative Offices; Overseas Offices of the Ministry of Economic Affairs; Overseas Offices of the Central News Agency; onboard China Airlines, EVA Air and other selected international airways; selected travel agencies in Asia, North America, and Europe; and other organizations

onlineRead the online version of Travel in Taiwan at www.zinio.com . Log in and search for "Travel in Taiwan". Or visit www.tit.com.tw/vision/index.htm

in TaiWanTourism Bureau Visitor Center; Tourism Bureau; Taiwan Visitors Association; foreign representative offices in Taiwan, Tourism Bureau service counters at Taiwan Taoyuan Int’l Airport and Kaohsiung Int’l Airport, major tourist hotels; Taipei World Trade Center; VIP lounges of international airlines; major tourist spots in Taipei; visitor centers of cities and counties around Taiwan; offices of national scenic area administrations; public libraries

Waterfowl at Dapeng Bay’s Jialian Wetland (Photo by Bobby Wu)

This magazine is printed on FSC certified paper. Any product with the FSC logo on it comes from a forest that has been responsibly maintained and harvested in a sustainable manner.

Travel in Taiwan 3

LET'S GO OUT TONIGHT24 Warm, Soothing, and Laid Back

— Places to Spend the Afternoon and Evening in Kang Qing Long District

HISTORY46 Hualien: A Living Relic — Exploring Remnants of the Japanese Occupation Period in Eastern Taiwan

THE BEST ROUTE28 Riding the Deuce — Rolling Down Highway No. 2 along the Northern Coast

6256

May ~ June 2011 24

feaTure8 Eco-Tour: Dapeng Bay and Little Liuqiu — tour Big Bay & Small Island — eat Three Culinary Treasures — stay Staying on the Island — buy Donggang Specialties

20 Eco-Tour — Five Ideas for Eco-Touring in Taiwan

1 Publisher�s Note 4 News & Events around Taiwan 6 Concerts, Exhibitions, and Happenings

54 Peculiar Taiwan65 Festivals and Events

FESTIVAL 62 Snow-White Delight — Enjoying Beautiful Blossoms and Hakka Culture

LEARNING ExpERIENcE60 Weaving in Wulai — Learning Handicraft Basics from a Member of the Atayal Tribe

LET'S EAT42 Tea Cuisine — Tasting Delicious Dishes Made with Tea Leaf and Tea Seed Oil

FOOD JOURNEY38 Hills Shrouded in Mist — Visiting Pinglin, One of the Best Areas for Growing Tea in Taiwan

MY pHOTO TOUR36 Off to the Beach! — Photo Memories of a Trip to Fulong

ON STAGE/OFF STAGE56 Performance Workshop — Fountainhead of Modern Chinese Theater

Michelin Green Guide to Taiwan Earlier this year Michelin, the

French tire maker and publisher

of travel guides, unveiled its first tourist guide

to Taiwan. The guide is divided into three parts:

Planning Your Trip, Introduction to Taiwan, and

Discovering Taiwan. All tourist attractions listed

in the guide are rated with the same star system

used in the famous Michelin restaurant guides.

A total of 38 places received the highest rating

(three stars), among them manmade landmarks

like Taipei 101 in Taipei and natural wonders

such as Taroko Gorge. The guide is available at

major bookstores in Taipei, including eslite and

Kingstone, and at online

book shops such as

amazon.com.

WHAT'S UP

News & Events

around Taiwan

Timeless Confucian Rituals at Taipei Confucius Temple Until July 23, the Taipei Confucius Temple has a

regular schedule of Confucius Ceremony

sacrificial performances, with morning shows

(Tue to Sat 9~9:30 a.m.) of the dance and music

of ancient China and afternoon sessions (Tue to

Sat 3~3:30 p.m.) where visitors can don classical

costumes and participate in performances. This is

a great opportunity for visitors to enjoy traditional

Confucian culture first-hand. For more info on the

temple, visit www.ct.taipei.gov.tw.

The Taiwan Railway 1966-1970Living in Taiwan from 1954 to 1970,

American Loren Aandahi spent a

significant amount of his time commuting by train

between the cities of Hsinchu and Taichung during

his youth. He fell in love with Taiwan’s railways and

became a passionate railway photographer. Now, more

than forty years after he left Taiwan to return to the

U.S., he has compiled a fascinating book, “The Tai-

wan Railway 1966-1970,” which is filled with almost

200 precious color photographs from the early days

of Taiwan’s “Economic Miracle” era of rapid develop-

ment. The book is available at eslite and other major

bookstore chains.

Books

Books

Culture

Peng Bay BridgeTaiwan has its first draw-

bridge. Put in operation on

March 27 this year, Peng

Bay Bridge crosses the channel that con-

nects Dapeng Bay lagoon in Pingtung

County with the South China Sea. The

bridge, a new landmark in the Dapeng

Bay National Scenic Area, can be opened

in just two minutes to let larger yachts

pass through. For more info on the sce-

nic area, visit www.dbnsa.gov.tw.

Land- marks

Memorial Park Honoring Japanese EngineerIn memory of Japanese civil engineer Yoichi Hatta (1886~1942), whose work contributed

greatly to the success of a large-scale irrigation system in southern Taiwan, a memorial

park is slated to be opened on May 8 this year near Wushantou Reservoir in Tainan County.

Completed 80 years ago, the Chia-Nan Irrigation System, with Wushantou Reservoir as

its centerpiece, was Hatta’s most important engineering feat. Since its construction the

water-distribution system has played a major role in irrigating some 150,000 hectares of

farmland in Tainan and Chiayi counties. Wushantou Reservoir is part of the Siraya National

Scenic Area (www.siraya-nsa.gov.tw).

History

Travel in Taiwan

5

First and Only 5-Star Hotel in TaitungThe small city

of Taitung

in southeast

Taiwan has its first 5-star

hotel. After receiving the

coveted 5-star rating from

the Tourism Bureau, the

Formosan Naruwan Hotel is

now officially the highest-

standard accommodation

option in Taitung. For more

info on the hotel, visit www.naruwan-hotel.com.tw.

?Do You Know Taiwan?

If you know the answers to the following

questions, you are most likely an experienced

Taiwan traveler. If you don’t know the

answers, you can find them within the pages of this issue

of Travel in Taiwan.

1. The island of Little Liuqiu is part of which national scenic area: Siraya, Dapeng Bay, or Southwest Coast? (Find the answer on page 11)

2. What is the name of the cape at the northernmost tip of Taiwan: Sandiao Cape, Bitou Cape, or Fugui Cape? (Find the answer on page 30)

3. The town of Pinglin is known for the production of what type of tea: Baozhong tea, Tieguanyin tea, or High-Mountain tea? (Find the answer on page 39)

Among the World’s BestShowing yet again

that it is one of the

top hotels in the

world, the Grand Hyatt Taipei has

once again made it onto the exclu-

sive Gold List of Condé Nast Traveler

magazine this year. Evaluated by the

readers of the magazine, the hotel

received a high rating of 89.9 and

earned its best ratings for service

(91.7) and food (91.2). The Grand Hyatt Taipei (http://taipei.grand.

hyatt.com) is the only hotel in Taiwan included in the list.

Hotels Hotels

Bus Ride/Boat Cruise in TaipeiThe world’s first carbon-free amphibious electric vehicle

is now in operation in Taipei. Named the “Thru Bus,”

this Taiwan-made bus/boat, with a seating capacity of

eight, has become a new member of the Blue Highway fleet of cruise

vessels operating on the Danshui and Keelung rivers. The Thru Bus

connects Miramar Entertainment Park and the Dazhi area, on its way

passing through riverside parks and cruising on the Keelung River.

Tickets for a 30-minute ride are priced NT$250 for adults. For more

info, visit www.thrubus.com (Chinese).

Airport Visitor Center ReopenedAt the end of this March, the newly refurbished Visitor In-

formation Center in the Arrivals Lobby of Taipei Songshan

Airport’s Terminal 2 was reopened. The center, one of 13

such info centers set up by the city government around Taipei, provides

travelers arriving at the airport with professional and attentive service

and valuable travel information about Taipei. The center is easily recog-

nized by an stylized “i” sign and bright yellow colors.

Transport Tourism

Travel in Taiwan 5

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Travel Info

CULTURE SCENE

Concerts, Exhibitions,

and Happenings

Taiwan has a diverse cultural scene, with art venues ranging from international-caliber concert halls and theaters to makeshift stages on temple plazas. Among Taiwan’s museums is the world-famous National Palace Museum as well as many smaller museums dedicated to different art forms and aspects of Taiwanese culture. Here is a brief selection of upcoming happenings. For more information, please visit the websites of the listed venues.

National Palace MuseumThe Tibetan Dragon Sutra:The Great Treasury of Buddhist Scriptures in the National Palace Museum龍藏－院藏大藏經展

Consisting of six divisions

with a total of 1,057 units, the

Tibetan Dragon Sutra is a Tibetan

translation of all “teachings” and

“laws” by Sakyamuni, the founder

of Buddhism. Among all Tibetan

Buddhist sutras in the National

Palace Museum’s collection it is

this sutra, hand-written in gold

ink and commissioned by the Qing

Dynasty’s Emperor Kangxi in 1669, that attracts the most attention. With more than

50,000 leaves in 108 cases, the voluminous collection of manuscripts was written in

standard Tibetan script with saturated gold pigment. The front and back boards were

decorated with 756 Buddhas, gorgeously and solemnly painted in colors. The exquisite

and elegant mounting also reveals the imperial style and taste. The exhibition is

divided into two sections; along with the six divisions of the Sutra and its mounting

accessories, two other sutras are also on display: (1) the Bkavvgyur Sutra, hand-

written in Tibetan script in gold ink, and (2) the Tripitaka, printed in Manchu script

in vermilion pigment.

1/22 ~

7/17

National Theater (Experimental Theater)

WCdance: Small Nanguan林文中舞團－小南管 “Small Nanguan” is the fourth part of

the WCdance company’s Small series.

For this work, Lin Wen-chung, the company’s artistic

director, has incorporated nanguan, a traditional style

of music popular in Taiwan that is often played in the

courtyards of old temples. With the Small series the

company presents dance performances in smaller, more

intimate spaces, which amplifies both the motions

and the emotions conveyed by the dancers. Exploring

the grace and spirit of nanguan music, Lin presents a remarkable combination of

contemporary dance and traditional music.

5/20 ~

5/22

Taipei Zhongshan Hall

Taipei Chinese Orchestra: Flying High with Your Love

臺北市立國樂團－情定北市國

The Taipei Chinese Orchestra is planning an ambitious

project, to be staged at the end of this year, which

will combine Chinese traditional music with stage-

play theatrics. Music lovers who don’t want to wait

that long, however, can see preview excerpts of

Flying High with Your Love on this night. Also on

stage on May 21 will be acclaimed Finnish cellist

Anssi Karttunen, tackling Germany-based composer

Xiaoyong Chen's newest composition, Taiwan's very

own Peking Opera diva Hai-Min Wei, and the queen

of folk music from across the Taiwan Strait, Fei

Song, presenting her rendering of Bing Zheng's erhu

masterpiece. This will be the final event of this year’s

Taipei Traditional Arts Festival.

5/21

Taipei Fine Arts MuseumMonet Garden莫內花園

Claude Monet, the founder of French Impressionism, is famous for

his works depicting outdoor scenes, his canvases often graced with

cathedrals, haystacks, and water lilies. This exhibition showcases some of the famous

scenery and flower paintings created by the great master in his garden in Giverny,

accompanied by a selection of his other landscape paintings. Monet is praised as the

artist most devoted to the ideas and ideals of Impressionism, and is recognized for his

profound receptiveness to atmosphere and ability to recreate it on canvas. He departed

from European oil-painting traditions by applying a new style and language in his

works, playing a key role in the advancement of the modern-art movement.

3/5 ~

6/5

Contemporary Jazz Dance Theater: Chicken Soup for the Soul II爵代舞蹈劇場－心靈雞湯Ⅱ Like the popular book series Chicken Soup for the Soul, the dance

performances by Contemporary Jazz Dance Theater inspire

audiences by telling touching stories. In May last year the troupe

successfully staged the first part of Chicken Soup for the Soul,

wowing theater-goers with energetic movement, fun-filled scenes,

and touching moments. With their intense performances, the

dancers nurture the soul of spectators and show how one can

identify and appreciate the wonderful things in life even when

facing adversity.

Travel in Taiwan 7

VenuesTaipei

Taipei Zhongshan Hall （台北中山堂）

Add: 98, Yanping S. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市延平南路 9 8 號 )

Nearest MRT Station: Ximen

Taipei International Convention Center （台北國際會議中心）

Add: 1, Xinyi Rd., Sec.5, Taipei City( 台北市信義路五段 1 號 )

Tel: (02) 2725-5200, ext. 3517, 3518 www.ticc.com.tw/Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall （國立中正紀念堂）

Add: 21 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市中山南路 21 號 )　　

Tel: (02) 2343-1100~3www.cksmh.gov.twNearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Concert Hall （國家音樂聽）National Theater （國家戲劇院）

Add: 21-1 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市中山南路 21-1 號 )

Tel: (02) 3393-9888www.ntch.edu.twNearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Museum of History （國立歷史博物館）

Add: 49 Nanhai Rd., Taipei City( 台北市南海路 4 9 號 )

Tel: (02) 2361-0270www.nmh.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Palace Museum （國立故宮博物院）

Add: 221 Zhishan Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City( 台北市至善路 2 段 2 21 號 )

Tel: (02) 2881-2021www.npm.gov.twNearest MRT Station: Shilin

National Taiwan Museum （國立臺灣博物館）

Add: 2 Xiangyang Rd., Taipei City( 台北市襄陽路二號 )

Tel: (02) 2382-2566www.ntm.gov.twNearest MRT Station: NTU Hospital

Novel Hall （新舞臺）

Add: 3 Songshou Rd., Taipei City( 台北市松壽路 3 號 )

Tel: (02) 2722-4302www.novelhall.org.twNearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall （國立國父紀念館）

Add: 505 Ren-ai Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City( 台北市仁愛路四段 5 0 5 號 )

Tel: (02) 2758-8008www.yatsen.gov.tw/englishNearest MRT Station: Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall

Taipei Arena （台北小巨蛋）

Add: 2 Nanjing E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City( 台北市南京東路 4 段 2 號 )

Tel: (02) 2577-3500www.taipeiarena.com.twNearest MRT Station: Nanjing E. Rd.

Taipei International Convention Center （台北國際會議中心）

Add: 1 Xinyi Rd., Sec. 5, Taipei City( 台北市信義路五段一號 )

Tel: (02) 2725-5200 ext. 3000. 3151~52 www.ticc.com.twNearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

Taipei Fine Arts Museum （台北市立美術館）

Add: 181 Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City( 台北市中山北路 3 段 181 號 )

Tel: (02) 2595-7656www.tfam.museum Nearest MRT Station: Yuanshan

Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei （台北當代藝術館）

Add: 39 Chang-an W. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市長安西路 39 號 )

Tel: (02) 2552-3720www.mocataipei.org.twNearest MRT Station: Zhongshan

Lin Liu-hsin Puppet Theatre Museum （林柳新紀念偶戲博物館）

Add: 79 Xining N. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市西寧北路 7 9 號 )

Tel: (02) 2556-8909www.taipeipuppet.comNearest MRT Station: Shuanglian

TaichungTaichung Zhongshan Hall （台中中山堂）

Add: 98 Xueshi Rd., Taichung City( 台中市學士路 9 8 號 )

Tel: (04) 2230-3100www.tccgc.gov.tw

National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts （國立台灣美術館）

Add: 2 Wuquan W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taichung City( 台中市五權西路一段 2 號 )

Tel: (04) 2372-3552www.ntmofa.gov.tw/Tainan

TainanTainan City Cultural Center （台南市立文化中心）

Add: 332 Zhonghua E. Rd., Sec. 3, Tainan City( 台南市中華東路 3 段 332 號 )

Tel: (06) 269-2864www.tmcc.gov.tw

KaohsiungKaohsiung City Chungcheng Cultural Center （高雄市立中正文化中心）

Add: 67 Wufu 1st Rd., Kaohsiung City( 高雄市五福一路 67 號 )

Tel: (07) 222-5136 ext. 8908, 8909, 8910www.khcc.gov.tw (Chinese only)Nearest KMRT Station: Cultural Center

Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts （高雄市立美術館）

Add: 80 Meishuguan Rd., Kaohsiung City( 高雄市美術館路 8 0 號 )

Tel: (07) 555-0331www.kmfa.gov.tw Nearest KMRT Station: Aozihdi Station

Kaohsiung Museum of History（高雄市立歷史博物館）

Add: 272 Zhongzheng 4th Rd., Kaohsiung City( 高雄市中正四路 27 2 號 )

Tel: (07) 531-2560http://163.32.121.205/Nearest KMRT Station: City Council

Taipei Arena

Russell Watson 2011 Live in Taipei美聲傳奇羅素華生2011台北演唱會

The “people’s tenor” is coming back to Taiwan! Russell Watson,

who has been declared by some to be the successor to the late

Luciano Pavarotti, and has declared himself the “people’s

tenor,” is today one of the world’s most popular tenors. His

outstanding talent as a singer

is not the only reason for his

popularity. His good looks, his

amazing story – from being

a steelworker and part-time

singer in a working men’s club

to becoming a world-famous

recording artist – his successful

fight against brain cancer, and

his decision to sing classic arias as well as pop songs have made

him a pop celebrity with a large following. This will be Watson’s

third appearance in Taiwan, following a concert in Taipei in 2006

and a performance at the World Games in Kaohsiung in 2009. He

will be accompanied by a 70-piece orchestra and a 16-member

choir.

6/6

National Theater (Experimental Theater)6/2 ~

6/5

FEATURE

Travel in Taiwan 8

FEATURE

They might not have the most untouched of natural environments, but Dapeng Bay and Little Liuqiu in Pingtung County each has a surprisingly diverse treasure trove of flora and fauna gems, making them two intriguing destinations for short eco-tours.

A BIG BAY & A SMALL ISLAND

Exploring Dapeng Bay and Little Liuqiu Island on an Eco-Tour

By Steven Crook

Coral sand beach on Little Liuqiu Island

Travel in Taiwan 8

ECO-TOUR

Travel in Taiwan 9

ECO-TOUR

Pho

to /

Bob

by W

u

more

FEATURE

Travel in Taiwan 10

Waterfowl at Dapeng Bay’s Jialian Wetland

Pho

tos

/ Bob

by W

u

Despite the best efforts of the Tourism Bureau's Dapeng Bay National Scenic

Area (DBNSA) Administration, there are still tourists who've not heard of this area in southwest Taiwan. Just in case you're one of them, here are some basic facts: Dapeng Bay is divided between the townships of Donggang and Linbian in Pingtung County. The waters of the lagoon here cover 532 hectares and average f ive meters in depth. Used by the military until the 1970s, the bay later became one of Taiwan's most important oyster-farming areas – it's said a man could get from one side to the other, a distance of 1,800 meters, by clambering from oyster platform to oyster platform.

The bay is stirred by consistent winds, but because the mouth is narrow the waves never reach any great height. Conditions are thus perfect for all kinds of water sports. For those who like to stay dry, a bicycle path stretching 13.3 km rings the lagoon.

On this occasion, however, Travel in Taiwan was not visiting in order to get f it. We were there to learn about the unique ecosystems of the scenic area, which consists of the lagoon area and Xiao Liuqiu, an island 14 km offshore.

Mr. Liao Zhi-feng, the DBNSA off icial showing us around the bay, began by tell ing me something so counterintuitive that I had to double-check it. The bay, he said, is saltier than the nearby ocean.

Surely not, I thought; freshwater inf low would reduce

the salinity. Yet only two small creeks feed into the bay,

and year-round sunshine evaporates a great deal of the

water. Also, because salt is comparatively heavy it tends to

sink and linger rather than being washed out through the

bay's constricted opening.

A pleasurable way to see the bay is to get on a boat.

A number of outf its offer boat tours, but the DBNSA

Administration recommends those offered by Renpeng Seaside Ranch. Guided boat tours cost NT$350 per adult

and NT$300 for kids 12 and under. (Chinese only; but you'll

enjoy the outing even if you don't understand a word.)

Our voyage began with a close look at the mangroves

beside Renpeng's base. These saltwater-loving trees and

shrubs used to be common along Taiwan's west coast, but

in most places they've been squeezed out by economic

development. A common mangrove species around the bay is

Avienna marina.

Then it was on to Oyster Shell Island. It isn't a true

island, rather the result of a community consensus to

dump unwanted oyster shells at the same spot over a long

period. In ecological terms, this reef-like accumulation is

akin to a sunken ship – inert, yet a valuable shelter for

f ish. Within minutes of disembarking at the island-side

f loating restaurant (try an oyster omelet if you've got the

munchies) we had spotted hundreds of f ish, representing at

least three piscine species.

ECO-TOUR

Travel in Taiwan 11

Six artif icial wetlands fringe the bay. In addition to removing pollutants from the water, they provide ideal habitat for the migrating waterbirds that gather hereabouts each winter. An elegant three-story wooden tower from which visitors can watch avians stands beside Qifeng Wetland. At Jialian, a l ively village, abandoned f ish farms have been turned into attractive pools inhabited by mallards and black-crowned night herons.

The pools form the core of Jialian Community Park, and most visitors to Jialian linger here awhile. This is entirely understandable – it's a lovely spot with an inexpensive coffee shop, and the ducks come up close. But thanks to Mr. Liao, we were able to take in a glorious sight nearby that many visitors miss – a shallow pond crowded with black-winged stilts. It was an excellent way to wind up the af ternoon.

By boat, it takes l ittle more than half an hour to reach Little Liuqiu f rom Donggang. There are at

least eight departures per day to Baisha, the main town, and another f ive to Dafu. If you've not already arranged transportation and accommodation, it's probably best to arrive at the former, where you can rent a motor scooter and get oriented.

Leaving “the mainland,” we got good views of a brand-new addition to the landscape, Taiwan's f irst drawbridge. Designed to allow large yachts in and out of Dapeng Bay,

it's central to the national government's plan to develop the bay into a coastal resort with world-class facil ities.

Little Liuqiu is just 6.8 square kilometers in area. Largely uplif ted coral reef, it's far from f lat.

Within minutes of disembarking, we were en route to Geban Bay, also known locally as “Venice Beach.” The

sand here, as on most of the island's beaches, features sharp fragments of coral, so the wearing of sandals or neoprene booties is advisable.

Near the water's edge, I grabbed a handful of grit and sif ted through it carefully, engrossed by the amazing variety of colors, shapes and sizes. Our guide, Mr. Li Ming-long, pointed out tiny (less than one mm across), irregular f ive-pointed yellow stars – f oramini f era, the shells of minute organisms.

It's worth repeating something Mr. Li stressed: Don't take any seashells home with you. If every one of the 300,000 folk who visit Little Liuqiu each year were to carry away a handful of choice shells, the environment would be seriously degraded.

If you visit Geban Bay between April and September you may spot f iref l ies, or even green loggerhead turtles making their way into this sheltered cove to lay their eggs. An hour later we spotted a few of these sea creatures swimming very close to the Samaji Island Camping Area on the island's northern coast.

Xiao Liuqiu consists largely of upli fted coral ree f and is far f rom f lat

Peculiar mushroomWild ducks

Examining the island floraTrail through the Wild Boar Trench

FEATURE

Travel in Taiwan 12

the ink to help them catch f ish. Like every good entertainer, our guide had prepared a

grand f inale. Asking us to dim our f lashlights, he began brushing the water with his hand. Within seconds, spots of greenish lights appeared in the water – bioluminescent plankton, the underwater equivalent of f iref l ies!

The following morning was spent at an inland location totally dif ferent f rom the sun-drenched beaches where v isitors spend much of their time. Wild Boar Trench

is misnamed; l izards, mice, and voles are the island's largest wild creatures. Cool and damp, the gull ies there are f illed with ferns and a taro-l ike plant called giant elephant's ear.

We then had to leave. There hadn't been time for the birdwatching we had or iginally planned, nor had we paid much attention to the butterf l ies. We hope that next time we’ ll see long-tailed shrikes, Japanese white-eyes, and other resident birds, and with luck, a huge, ma jestic Papilio memnon heronus butterf ly will gl ide our way. And, without a doubt, we'll be heading back to the intertidal zone.

The sun was now setting, but we were far from f inished. Af ter dinner, it was off to Yufu Fishing Harbor for a nighttime guided tour of the intertidal zone.

Thanks to Little Liuqiu's pristine environment and its rocky, uneven foreshore, there are countless pools and trenches where sea creatures hide out between tides. This natural aquarium is best explored with the help of a guide, and we had Little Liuqiu native Mr. Li Cheng-jia. He began by warning us not to touch anything until he gave the OK. Some inhabitants of the intertidal zone – such as rock boring urchins – can inf lict nasty stings.

Wading a considerable distance from dry land, but never getting more than our ankles wet, we were shown a black brittle starf ish, then a black sea cucumber as big as a child's forearm. Af ter that we saw a meter-long black-and-white worm not thicker than a strand of spaghetti.Even more remarkable were the sea hares, sof t gastropods that emit purple ink when under attack. This substance intoxicates and disorients f ish; Mr. Li said that when he was a child, he and his friends would use a collection of

We saw a meter-long black-and-white worm not thicker than a

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Little Liuqiu’s nature is very accessible Sandy beach at Geban Bay

Little Liuqiu’s most famous landmark: Flower Vase Rock

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Travel in Taiwan 13

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Baisha 白沙

Dapeng Bay 大鵬灣國家風景區 National Scenic Area Dafu 大福

Donggang 東港

Geban Bay 蛤板灣

Jialian 嘉蓮

Jialian Community Park 嘉蓮社區公園

Li Cheng-jia 李承家

Li Ming-long 李銘龍

Liao Zhi-feng 廖志峰

Linbian 林邊

Oyster Shell Island 蚵殼島

Qifeng Wetland 崎峰濕地

Samaji Island 沙瑪基露營區

Camping AreaWild Boar Trench 山豬溝

Little Liuqiu 小琉球

Yufu Fishing Harbor 漁福魚港

DAPENG BAY NATiONAL sCENiC AREAwww.dbnsa.gov.tw

RENPENG sEAsiDE RANCH (仁鵬海洋親水牧場)Tel : (08) 832-2777Location : On the seaward side of Highway No. 17 at km 257.3

Exploring the sea floor of the intertidal zone at night reveals amazing creatures

Spotted sea hare

Collector sea urchin

Sea hare eggsRock boring sea urchinBlack sea cucumberPillow cushion star

Baisha Tourist Harbor

Dafu F ishing Port

Yufu F ishing PortWild Boar Trench

Geban Bay

Peng Bay Bridge

Little Liuqiu

Dapeng Bay

Donggang

Jialian Community Park

Oyster Shell Island

Qifeng Wetland

South China Sea

to Kaohsiung

F lower Vase Rock

14k

Liuqiu V isitor CenterSamaji Island Camping Area

Travel in Taiwan 14

Tell a local gourmet you’re heading to Pingtung

County’s west coast, and he or she is sure to rhapsodize about Donggang’s “three culinary treasures.” The f ishing town has always made its l iving from the ocean, so it’s no surprise that all three of these signature delicacies are seafood items.

First and foremost is bluefin tuna, the availability of which peaks around the start of summer. It’s of ten served Japanese-style as sashimi or in sushi. If you order some, do try it before you sample any other dishes. Top-grade bluef in sashimi costs around NT$300 per slice, so it deserves a clean palate. In appearance, it resembles marbled beef. In taste, obviously, it’s very different.

If raw f ish doesn't appeal, order a tuna dish that's been deep-fried or steamed.

The second treasure is sakura shrimp. These are usually shallow-fried, seasoned and served on a bed of f luff y white rice.

The third is escolar roe. Dark-brown in color and surprisingly like

cheese in both texture and taste, this dish is served cold and thinly sliced.

All three of Donggang's culinary treasures can be sampled at

Sunrise Restaurant, a three-story landmark establishment that's been in business for over 40 years. Like many banquet-style restaurants, the food here is best enjoyed in large groups, so you can taste numerous dishes at one time.

According to the owners, Sunrise's chefs much prefer freshly caught seafood to farmed f ish. Despite the emphasis on seafood, the menu also caters to vegetarians and those who'd rather eat land-roaming creatures. For NT$400 to NT$500 per person, you'll

enjoy a real feast.Little Liuqiu has

a number of qual ity seafood eater ies, and

one of the best is Baihai Restaurant. It's easy to f ind – if you're walking f rom the center of Baisha, the main town, to Lingshan Temple, it's one of the last buildings on the lef t.

Not everything on the menu comes from the ocean. For example, locally-

made pork sausages, chopped into slivers and served with lettuce, are a favorite.

Baihai also serves up what locals call a Little Liuqiu Pizza. It contains neither cheese nor tomatoes, yet in terms of shape and size it does resemble a pizza. Filled with prawns covered with f lour and seasoning, it's deep-fried until golden-brown – and it goes down a treat.

Blue fin tuna is often served Japanese-st yle as

sashimi or in sushi

BAiHAi REsTAURANT (百海餐廳)

Add : 6 Minzu Rd., Liuqiu Township, Pingtung County (屏東縣琉球鄉民族路六號)Tel : (08) 861-2224Website : www.paihai.com.tw (Chinese)

sUNRisE REsTAURANT (東昇餐廳)

Add : 66 Guangfu Road, Sec. 2, Donggang Township, Pingtung County (屏東縣東港鎮光復路二段66號)Tel : (08) 832-3112

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

bluefin tuna 黑鮪魚

Donggang’s three 東港三寶 culinary treasures escolar roe 油魚子

Lingshan Temple 靈山寺

sakura shrimp 櫻花蝦

Little Liuqiu Pizza 小琉球比薩

The three culinary treasures of Donggang at Sunrise Restaurant

Three Culinary TreasuresBluefin Tuna, Sakura Shrimp, and Escolar Roe are Donggang’s Must-Try Specialties By Steven Crook

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Travel in Taiwan 15

STAY

Over the past few years, new hotels and homestays

have opened in every corner of Little Liuqiu, giving visitors an excellent range of accommodation options.

One of the most impressive newcomers is Shan Bay Villa. This stylish complex is colored creamy white and wood brown – shades chosen, the owner says, to better f it in with local nature.

It overlooks Geban Bay on the island’s northwest coast, and has the island’s only swimming pool.

As the name advertises, Shan Bay Villa has villa-style accommodation (sleeping quarters and bathroom upstairs, open-air bath and raked-gravel miniature garden downstairs), but also offers more conventional rooms. The former are more luxurious and characterful, to be sure, yet the latter have better ocean views.

There’s a medium-sized conference room, but tourists will probably make more use of the roof top coffee shop. This is where af ternoon tea is taken.

Most beverages are priced just NT$30; the vistas, however, are priceless.

The hotel’s design incorporates aspects of green architecture. A large array of solar thermal panels produces all the hot water needed. Much of Xiao Liuqiu’s water is pumped in from Taiwan, but Shan Bay Villa draws its water from wells that have existed

for decades. Rather than loan gasoline-burning motorcycles/scooters to guests, the hotel has

acquired a f leet of electric scooters on which they can zip around the island.

Much of the 2,000-ping (1 ping equals just over 3.3 sq. m.) lot has been turned into manicured lawns and colorful f lowerbeds. The garden between the lobby and the road is bisected by an artif icial brook that nurtures aquatic plants and insects.

Packages – which include breakfast, af ternoon tea, dinner, ferry tickets, pickup from the dock, admission to Xiao Liuqiu’s major sights (such as Black Dwarf Cave and Wild Boar Trench), use of a scooter and the swimming pool, and a guided tour of

the intertidal zone – are available. The hotel can also help arrange snorkeling sessions and excursions on a glass-bottom boat.

The hotel provides electric scooters on which guests can zip around the island

sHAN BAY ViLLA (杉板灣)

Add : 2 Duzaiping Rd., Liuqiu Township, Pingtung County (屏東縣琉球鄉肚仔坪路2號)Tel : (08) 861-3300Website : www.sbbay.com.tw

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Black Dwarf Cave 烏鬼洞

Geban Bay 蛤板灣

Wild Boar Trench 山豬溝

Tranquil garden and pond of Shan Bay Villa

Staying on the IslandVilla-Style Accommodation on Xiao LiuqiuBy Steven Crook

Travel in Taiwan 16

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Travel in Taiwan 17

Travel in Taiwan 18

Donggang’s fame rests on

food and religion. As far as Taiwanese are concerned, this bustling town of 50,000 is synonymous with delicious seafood and a triennial boat-burning ceremony that honors Taoist deities.

But that doesn’t mean shopaholics and those who’ve promised to bring something special home for their friends or relatives will leave empty-handed.

An excellent place to hunt for souvenirs is Tung Kang Speciality. It’s a very short walk from the Sunrise Restaurant mentioned on page 14.

The store has an array of intriguing and beautifully-packaged souvenirs. Some are impractical if you’re visiting from afar and expect to be living out of a suitcase (or a backpack) for several more days. Nevertheless, they’re well worth examining.

Day-trippers of ten go for the pork sausages f lavored with octopus ink, or for sausages made from f lying f ish eggs (both are priced NT$150 per packet). If your next stop is the home of a Taiwanese friend, consider buying a big

bag of f ish balls – they’re delicious in soups.

There are also bags of, yes, fish-f lavored candies and packets of dried swordf ish.

You’ ll probably be offered free samples of the store’s most exotic offering, sakura shrimp chocolates. These morsels (NT$280 for a box containing ten pieces; NT$520 for 20 pieces) consist of tiny shrimps baked and then covered with white chocolate. In each box, half are original f lavor, while half have been enlivened with a smidgen of wasabi.

Those traveling super-light or on a tight budget should set aside NT$30 for one of the store’s sakura shrimp popsicles. Not only are they surprisingly milky and refreshing, but you’ ll earn bragging rights. How many of your friends can say they’ve eaten seafood ice cream?

Eating sakura shrimp popsicles earns you bragging rights. How many of your f riends have eaten sea food ice-cream be fore?

TUNG KANG sPECiALiTY (東港東西)

Add : 42-1 Guangfu Road, Sec. 2, Donggang Township, Pingtung County (屏東縣東港鎮光復路二段42-1號)Tel : (08) 832-8869Hours : Daily 9:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Sakura shrimp chocolates

Sakura shrimp popsicle

Donggang SpecialtiesThings to Take Home from Sunny Pingtung County By Steven Crook

BUY

“Shuang gao run,” a sweet delicacy from Donggang

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Travel in Taiwan 19

FEATURE

Travel in Taiwan 20

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A Lifetime Isn't Enough to See All of Taiwan's Natural Wonders By Steven Crook

Taiwan is fantastically diverse in terms of topography, climate, and soil t ypes, and its various habitats nurture an astonishing variet y of mammals, birds, reptiles, insects, f ish, and plants. A great many species are endemic, meaning they’re found nowhere else on Earth. A quarter of Taiwan’s 4,300-plus vascular plants are unique to the island, as are one-third of its reptile species and subspecies. Thirt y-six of the 220 f reshwater f ish species, 11 of the 30 bat t ypes, and 70 percent of its snails are endemic. I f you’ve the luxury of time, visit the mountains, the coast, and the rural lowlands; all is not lost, however, i f you’re stuck in one of the cities. And it might surprise you to read that our f irst recommended stop falls into neither of these categories.

The best single introduction to Taiwan’s awesome biodiversity can be enjoyed at the Conservation Education Center of the Endemic Species Research Institute (tesri.coa.gov.tw) in Nantou County’s Ji ji town. The center (admission NT$50/30; open 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday, closed June 1~10 and December 1~10) has excellent bilingual displays and multimedia presentations, plus an adjacent park full of plants, insects, and lizards.

Eco-touring in a Concrete Building?

Five Ideas for Eco-Touring in Taiwan

ECO-TOURS

Travel in Taiwan 21

It makes sense to continue heading inland from Ji ji, perhaps as far as Shei-Pa National Park (www.spnp.gov.tw), which has 51 mountain peaks above 3,000 meters. At this altitude you’ ll f ind no permanent settlements, no industry, and almost no roads.

If you hike to the top of Snow Mountain, Taiwan’s second-highest peak, you can expect to see Taiwan f lamecrests – tiny but colorful warblers – and vinaceous rosef inches. The park in its entirety is recognized by international ornithological bodies as one of Taiwan’s 53 Important Bird Areas.

At the park’s Wuling Farm (www.wuling- f arm.com.tw), scientists study a relic from the last Ice Age: the Formosan landlocked salmon (Oncorhynchus masou f ormosanum). Like other salmon, this f ish used to migrate between the ocean and freshwater. But when the climate changed some were caught, the need for water no warmer than 18 degrees Celsius meaning they were able to survive only in a handful of high-mountain creeks, unable to reach the sea. You can learn about this species at the farm’s Taiwan Salmon Eco Center (open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesday to Sunday, open on national holidays that fall on Mondays).

The High, Unspoiled Mountains

Unless you spend your entire time in Taiwan in one of the major cities, you’ ll notice that rice f ields still cover a signif icant proportion of Taiwan’s lowlands. This kind of farming has a mixed ecological impact. Rice f ields emit methane, a greenhouse gas, yet they also help stabilize water supplies and reduce the risk of f looding.

At f irst glance, paddies appear to be monocultures – places where a single crop thrives but few other organisms exist. However, if you get as close to the green stalks as you can without straining your eyes, you’ ll spot tiny moths, spiders, and ladybugs. Frogs croak loudly, but hide themselves very well.

You’ ll also notice snails and the pink masses of eggs they lay. These gastropods, known in English as golden apple snails, are an invasive pest. Unlike their dryland counterparts, golden apple snails have tubular snorkels which allow them to breathe air while submerged. For this reason they’re less vulnerable to birds, which is important because paddies attract droves of egrets, black-winged stilts, and other avians.

The Bucolic Countryside

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Budai 布袋

Conservation Education 特有生物研究保育中心

Center, Endemic Species Research InstituteDanshui 淡水

Formosan landlocked 台灣櫻花鉤吻鮭

salmonGolden apple snail 福壽螺

Haomeiliao 好美寮

Haomeiliao Nature 好美寮自然保護區 PreserveJiji 集集

Protogenic Plants Garden 原生原生植物園

Shei-Pa National Park 雪霸國家公園

Sicao 四草

Snow Mountain 雪山

Taijiang National Park 台江國家公園

Tainan City Mangrove 台南市紅樹林保護協會

Protection AssociationTaipei Botanical Gardens 台北植物園

Taiwan Salmon Eco Center 台灣櫻花鉤吻鮭生態中心

If Dapeng Bay (see page 8) isn’t on your itinerary, but you like the idea of seeing saltwater creatures, an easy option is riding Taipei’s MRT out to the port town of Danshui and then taking the ferry to Bali (a small town on the opposite side of the river) when the tide is low. The

boat journey takes about ten minutes and costs NT$20 one way.

The exposed mudf lats around Bali’s dock are alive with f iddler crabs and mudskippers. The latter are actually f ish that can survive for some time out of the water because they breathe through their skin. They grow up to 10cm long. Further west, at the mouth of the river you can also explore a mangrove protection area serving as habitat for many mud dwellers and waterbirds.

At both Haomeiliao in Chiayi County and Sicao in Tainan City you can join boat tours. At the former the focus is on crabs; at the latter it’s on mangroves and waterbirds. Haomeiliao Nature Preserve is a six-hectare area of mudf lats, lagoons, dunes, and marshes. The two main species of crab hereabouts are Uca lactea (a f iddler, so the males have one claw much bigger than the other) and Mict yris brevidact ylus (a l ight-blue soldier crab).

Sicao is now a core part of Tai jiang National Park (www.t jnp.gov.tw), Taiwan’s newest national park. Tours are organized by the Tainan City Mangrove Protection Association (tel: (06) 284-1709).

What options do you have if your visit to Taiwan is l imited to the capital, and you’ve no more than a few hours to spare? Head to Taipei Botanical Garden (open daily 4 a.m. to 10 p.m.; t pbg.tfri.gov.tw). This garden area features an impressive 1,500 plant and tree species in just eight hectares. Japanese white-eyes and black-browed barbets are among the birds of ten seen here.

Note also that the southern city of Kaohsiung has a park at its center devoted to indigenous f lora that’s easy to get to and educational. The Protogenic Plants Garden (open daily 24 hours) is a ten-minute walk from the old Zuoying Railway Station.

Get Your Feet Wet

Stuck in the City

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If you enjoy a bit of history with your cup of coffee or tea, head to Formosa Vintage Museum Café, near the north entrance to Yongkang Street on section 2

of Xinyi Road, yet another repository of edible delights. This café cum museum was founded by Doctor Lin Yu-fang in memory of his beloved mother and father. A basic selection of coffees and teas offer a delectable excuse to bask among the hundreds of artifacts that Dr. Lin has accumulated over the years, as patrons are invited to wander around and take pictures of the countless pieces of Taiwan’s past that he has lovingly accrued. Wall-to-wall memorabilia adorns the place and display cases, with ceramic sculptures, ancient city plans, black-and-white photos of yesteryear, wooden carvings of Taoist gods and Buddhas, elegantly framed paintings depicting scenes from Taiwanese folklore, vintage advertisements and propaganda items, indigenous-tribe weapons, and ornate bamboo fans are just a few of the many worthy of mention. This is one café that truly offers the opportunity to leave the present and sit amidst history, absorbing its many wonders in a relaxed setting.

Located in the maze of lanes off Taishun Street, not far from the famous food stalls of the Shida Night Market, is Salt Peanuts Café, a warm,

soothing, laid-back establishment with its f inger on the pulse of the Taipei arts scene. The café was founded by two women, graduates of National Taiwan University’s Graduate Institute of Building and Planning, with the goal of providing an inspirational venue in which creative waves f low as freely as their wide selections of coffees, teas, and Belgian beers. Watercolors, simply drawn portraits, and sketches created by local artists adorn the walls of the softly lit, warmly decorated dark-wood interior. Alternative rock and indie music play softly on the stereo, and an eclectic selection of literature and CDs sits on shelves throughout the rooms, which are divided by darkly stained shutter windows. The menu boasts Taiwanese specialties such as Hualien pork knuckle and duck in lotus leaf, along with brunch sets, tapas, desserts, domestic and foreign teas, coffees of all kinds, cocktails, and Chilean and South African wines. If you’re looking to stimulate your intellectual side and get a feel for Taipei’s artistic vibrations, this just might be the best place to start.

Salt Peanuts Café

Formosa Vintage Museum Café

There are certain parts of Taipei City that are positively bursting at the seams with quirky and unique

restaurants, bars, and cafés of all kinds, and the Kang Qing Long district, in the heart of Taipei’s trendy

downtown area, is a place any food and drink lover could happily wander for weeks. Whether you’re looking for

a quiet place to relax, read, and enjoy a cup of coffee, sample some of the finest teas from around the world, or

enjoy some live music, Kang Qing Long won’t leave you disappointed. By Joe Henley

Warm, Soothing, and Laid BackPlaces to Spend a Late Afternoon and Evening in Kang Qing Long District

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康青龍

Travel in Taiwan 24

LET'S GO OUT TONIGHT!

For those of you who take your cup of coffee a little more seriously than others, seek out Coffee Mania, located down a small alley off Shida Road near Shida

Night Market. Coffee Mania is run by an interior designer who set up this small, dimly lit space motivated by nothing more than his pure love for the perfect cup of coffee. Though this café’s hours of operation are irregular, customers are invited to call the owner at any time to set up a reservation. The place was lovingly crafted following the owner’s individual taste and design expertise, and visitors will f ind a warm, welcoming, and hospitable atmosphere. One thing you won’t f ind is a menu, but the owner is well-versed in the art of all things coffee-related, though his cappuccino in particular is nearing legendary status among the student community of nearby National Taiwan Normal University (commonly known as “Shida”).

Coffee Mania

A short distance away is Ye Tang, an urban oasis for tea lovers. Visitors are greeted with manicured bonsai trees in the shop’s small front courtyard, and owner He

Jian, a man of 30 years’ experience in the business, always presents a hot cup of expertly brewed tea to his guests. Inside the shop are traditional bamboo tea-making instruments, clay teapots, handmade cups, and a refined serving room for sampling small cups of He Jian’s f ine products. The dark wood tones and antique fixtures at He’s tea sanctuary are a warm and welcoming draw for anyone looking to take home some Taiwanese, Korean, or Japanese tea leaf or delicately crafted, handmade teaware.

Tea connoisseurs need look no further for liquid comfort than the aforementioned Yongkang Street, where two of Taipei’s best places to sample and buy fine

Taiwanese and imported teas are found. Looking out over the small Yongkang Park is Hui Liu, a health-oriented vegetarian café and restaurant run by American expatriate Evan Shaw and his Taiwanese wife, Hu Hsiao-chen. With a menu featuring only fresh, in-season ingredients, organic beers and teas, and a host of dishes that promote a refreshing philosophy of healthy living, Hui Liu lives up to the English translation of its name, “Return (to Nature).” Even the feel of the place is holistic and healthy, as the small details from the fresh f lowers on the tables to the simple elegance of the antique decorations and classical music playing quietly make one feel utterly at peace and free to enjoy the basic but oft-missed pleasure of food and drink that aid the body and soul.

Ye Tang

Hui Liu

Travel in Taiwan 25

KANG QING LONG

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

duck in lotus leaf 荷葉鴨He Jian 何健Hu Hsiao-chen 胡筱貞 Hualien pork knuckle 花蓮豬腳Kang Qing Long district 康青龍區Lin Yu-fang 林于昉National Taiwan 國立臺灣 Normal University 師範大學Roosevelt Road 峯 羅斯福路Shida Night Market 師大夜市Taishun Street 泰順街Xinyi Road 信義路Yongkang Park 永康公園Yongkang Street 永康街

For more infotmation on the Kang Qing Long district and its many other cafés, tea shops, and boutiques, visit www.tteacafe.tw. I f you are in the area you can also drop by Taipei Tea Café (旅人茶房 ; 10, Lane 80, Shida Rd., Taipei Cit y /台北市師大路 80巷 10號 ) and ask for print-out information in Chinese and English.

Xinsheng S. Rd., Sec. 3

Xinsheng S. Rd., Sec. 2

Taishun St.

Longquan Rd.

Shida Rd.

Pucheng St.

Qingtian St.

Yongkang St.

Lishui St.

Jinshan S. Rd., Sec. 2

Roosevelt Rd., Sec. 1

Aiguo E. Rd.

Jinhua St.

Guting

Daan Park

Xinyi Rd., Sec. 2

Roosevelt Rd., Sec. 3

Roosevelt Rd., Sec. 3

Xinhai Rd., Rd. Sec. 1

CKS Memorial Hall

Jinhua Elem.School

Jinhua Junior High School

Xinsheng Elem. School

Nat. TaiwanNormal Univ.

XinminElem. School

Guting Elem.School

Gongguan

Taipower Building

MRT CKS Memorial Hall

TaipowerBuilding

Lane 60Lane 105

Lane 93

Lane 83

Lane 59Lane 68

Lane 80

Lane 86

Lane 92

Lane 102Lane 117

Lane 126 Lane 135

Lane 244

Lane 49

Lane 39

Lane 13, Pucheng St.

Lane 54

Lane 50

Lane 44

Lane 40

Lane 38

Lane 26

Lane 16

Lane 12

Lane 8

Lane 2Lane 75Lane 52

Lane 17

Lane 13

Lane 9

Lane 14

Lane 12

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Lane 2 Lane 7巷

Lane 41Lane

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Lane 31

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Lane 61

Lane 2

Wutai Street

ShidaNight Market

Din Tai Fung

Int’lFoodStreet

LongquanMarket

Heping E. Rd., Sec. 1

N

Jinhua St.Center for Public & Business Admin. Edu. Nat. Chengchi Univ.

YongkangPark

Nat. TaiwanNormal Univ.

COFFEE MANiA (鼠寓) TEL: (02) 3365-2027, 0936-201-666Add: 19, Lane 80, Shida Rd., Taipei City (台北市師大路80巷19號)

YE TANG (冶堂) TEL: (02) 3393-8988Add: 20-2, Lane 31, Yongkang St., Taipei City (台北市永康街31巷20-1號)

BLUE NOTE TEL: (02) 2362-2333Add: 4F, 171, Roosevelt Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City (台北市羅斯福路3段171號4樓)

FORMOsA ViNTAGE MUsEUM CAFÉ (秋惠文庫) TEL: (02) 2351-5723Add: 3F, 178, Xinyi Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City (台北市信義路2段178號3樓)

sALT PEANUTs CAFÉ (鹹花生) TEL: (02) 2368-1019Add: 23, Lane 60, Shida Rd., Taipei City (台北市師大路60巷23號)

HUi LiU (回留) TEL: (02) 2392-6707Add: 9, Lane 31, Yongkang St., Taipei City (台北市永康街31巷9號)

OLdiE GOOdiE TEL: (02) 2369-3686Add: 2F, 171, Roosevelt Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City (台北市羅斯福路3段171號2樓)

KangQing Long Area

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LET'S GO OUT TONIGHT!

Travel in Taiwan 26

A couple f loors up from Oldie Goodie is Blue Note, the counterculture bastion of cool jazz Taipei. Another intimate

venue, its walls are decked out with vinyl records of jazz greats such as Thelonious Monk, Dizzy Gillespie, Billie Holiday, and Duke Ellington. A cramped stage illuminated by tube lighting and string lights features a baby grand piano and more than enough room for a jazz ensemble. This venue has the feel of a private speakeasy that you would normally hear about only through word of mouth. A drink or two at Blue Note while taking in some spirited renditions of jazz classics is the ideal way to end an afternoon and evening spent in the relaxed and robust Kang Qing Long district, a vibrant place of many open secrets waiting to be revealed.

Blue Note

Coffee and tea are all well and good for an afternoon or early evening of relaxation, but the night

demands something a bit stronger – and louder. Those looking for a hit of live music need look no further than the south end of Shida Road, where the well-worn student-enclave thoroughfare meets Roosevelt Road. There, on f loors two and four of a nondescript office building, are two gems of the Taipei nightlife and music scenes, Oldie Goodie and Blue Note.

Oldie Goodie was born from a love of Western music and a return to those proverbial carefree “good old days.” This is a small space, equipped with a slightly elevated corner stage that looks out over a few tables clad in plaid tablecloths, where an often mature crowd takes in a live show every day of the week,

performances getting under way at 9:30 on weekdays and 10 p.m. on weekends Even on those rare nights when no band is booked, the owner has been known to let people get up on stage and jam. If your radio is permanently dialed to adult contemporary, this is the scene for you.

Oldie Goodie

KANG QING LONG

THE BEST ROUTE

Travel in Taiwan 28Travel in Taiwan 28

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NORTH/NORTHEAST COAST

Travel in Taiwan 29

Typical bizarre rock formation found along Taiwan’s northern coast

DeuceRiding the

Rolling Down Highway No. 2 along the North and Northeast Coasts

Having grown up in North America, where there is much open country and much open

road available to explore it, the words “road trip! ” called out by friend or family member

send forth a wave of excitement and expectation. Taiwan too — though by many a

degree smaller in size and percentage of open and accessible terrain — offers a range

of rewarding road trips that will satisfy the cravings of all adventurous souls. Here we

explore the pretty north and northeast coasts, a world away from the manmade landscape

of metropolitan Taipei, though within an hour by car from its heart. By Rick Charette

THE BEST ROUTE

Travel in Taiwan 30

On the north coast, along most sections of Provincial Highway No. 2, the waves of the Pacif ic come ashore

quite close to the road, and only a matter of meters below. On the other side are mountains, though set back a bit in most areas. The northeast coast is more rugged, the mountains crowded shoulder to shoulder right by the shore and the breakers smashing themselves against rock far down below in many a dramatic section. I have traversed what some of my expatriate friends call “the Two” or “the Deuce” more times than I can recall, and for this outing I have framed the trip for you by off icially beginning at Taiwan’s easternmost point, Sandiao Cape, and ending at her northernmost, Fugui Cape.

Each of us experiences the world using a unique set of personality-sculpting f ilters. My own travel adventures, by design or default, are always f irst and foremost history tours. All along the coast here you’ll see colorful f ishing boats of myriad size, design, and rigging, but in my mind’s eye the big boys are magically transformed into white-sailed Spanish warships. The Spanish controlled this region from 1626 to 1642, their main base at the present-day city of Keelung, before being ousted by the Dutch, whose main Taiwan base was in the southwest. The “Sandiao” in the cape’s name is derived from the original Spanish name Cape San Diego (the Spaniards moved on because they thought any bastion here would be indefensible).

On this day we reach the northeast coast from Taipei via National Freeway No. 5, connecting to the No. 2 and approaching Sandiao Cape from the south. It’s

about the same time and distance via National Freeway No. 1, with a switch to Provincial Highway No. 62 just before you hit Keelung City. If you choose the latter option, you’ll of course be traveling twice along the northeast coast stretch of Highway No. 2. Note that your travel times can become much longer if your outing is on a weekend or holiday.

We turn inland off No. 2 just past the 109-km marker to reach the Sandiao Cape Lighthouse. There is a

sign with clear English at the entrance of the lane that heads up the hill. The lighthouse was built in 1935 by the Japanese after two Japanese ships sank directly offshore. It is open daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., save for Mondays and the day after a national holiday, and houses a small display gallery with old lighthouse equipment, maps, period photos, and other items. There are short, well-maintained pathways on the cape, one leading to a f ine lookout with information boards that have English explanations of the immediate area’s geology and history. Along the coast far to the south, you can see a giant turtle headed out to sea – this is Turtle Island, Taiwan’s only active volcano. Bring a jacket, for the winds can be strong and cool here.

From the lookout you also look straight down onto an aquatic farm on the coastal side of the highway where abalone

The northeast coast is more rugged, the mountains

crowded shoulder to shoulder right by the shore

THE BEST ROUTE

WHAT’S SEEN ON THE WAY FROM THE EASTERNMOST TO THE NORTHERNMOST TIP OF THE ISLAND There were many amazing things seen on this road-trip. Let me show you some!

NORTH- EAST COAST

Majestic Keelung Mountain

Rocks covered with seaweed

Sandiao Cape Lighthouse

Rock eroded by wind and sea

NORTH/NORTHEAST COAST

Travel in Taiwan 31

NORTH/NORTHEAST COAST

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Rocks covered with seaweed

Mushroom rock

OIA Art Cafe

Rock formations at Yeliu

One of many fossi l pat terns

OIA Art Cafe Sandy stretch of coast

Tourists are drawn to the rocks at Yeliu

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THE BEST ROUTE

Travel in Taiwan 32

is cultivated. A visit to the large farm, tiny hamlet, and tiny port here is even better, and afterwards you’ll immediately recognize the numerous abalone operations that sprinkle the northeast coast.

Our next stop is Longdongwan Cape Trail. The turnoff to the trailhead parking lot is just past the 88-km marker, just before you enter the Longdong Tunnel, which takes the highway through the cape. Look for the large, attractive temple along the road, just off the highway; the parking lot is just beyond. The wide, well-maintained pathway stretches northwards about 7 km, but our main interest here is reaching the tip of the cape and taking in the spectacular views standing on the edge of sheer cliffs hundreds of meters high. For this you need just 10-15 minutes one way, passing by informative signboards with good English and pathways down to the shore, where scores of f ishermen will be posed on rocky outcrops to enhance your picture-taking. At the cape’s tip are a couple of grassy areas, one with a gazebo, begging you to stop and picnic. This is my favorite natural spot on the north/northeast coast – the views are unbeatable, nature’s power on full, exciting, primal display. No surprise, the cliffs here are north Taiwan’s best natural rock-climbing facility.

Highway No. 2 goes right through downtown Keelung, but to save time getting to the north

coast, at the 74-km point we jump on Provincial Highway No. 62. The elevated expressway skirts the city and places you down back on No. 2 on the city’s northernmost edge.

Just east of the 47-km marker, and just after you’ve passed through a long tunnel that pierces another cape, is the turnoff to the f ishing port of Yeliu and Yeliu Geopark (entrance fee required). The town and port are at the tip of the cape, and the park is at the tip of the town, on a headland sliver that resembles an upside-down crooked f inger. Bizarre sandstone formations on the rocky

promontory have been carved by Mother Nature the artist, using wave and wind as her tools. The gallery of works includes a bust of Egyptian Queen Nefertiti, Cinderella’s lost slipper, burning candles (to my mind, by far the most beautiful), and petrif ied eggs left to hatch by ancient sea monsters.

These are all in the f irst section, accessed by wide, comfortable boardwalks. If time allows, after enjoying the formations walk the footpath that takes you to the promontory’s tip. The views from the lighthouse here are stunning, the sea wrapping around you almost 360 degrees, and you’ll have left almost all the out-of-shape formation-gawking day-trippers behind. Give yourself about 4 hours for this second section. (Note that town and park can get very, very busy on non-workdays.)

The turnoff for the road leading toward the tip of Fugui Cape and comfortable Fugui Cape Park is at about the 26-km mark. Clear English signage then guides you on the short drive toward the visual highlight of this rugged, rocky outcrop, the Fugui Cape Lighthouse. The windswept features paved paths that bring to many a scenic outlook, with intermittent explanatory signs with English. Note

that the lighthouse itself is on a small air force radar base, with access limited to weekends. You must sign in and out. The original lighthouse here was built in 1896, destroyed by the Allies for strategic reasons during WW II. Rebuilt in 1949, it today features dramatic black and white stripes for easier discernment in fog. On the cape’s west side is a compact little port lined with simple seafood eateries where you point out your food, still swimming in tanks, before sitting down. The Taiwanese are passionate about the word “fresh,” and this place is packed like a sardine school on weekends.

I announced way back at the beginning that our off icial end-point this day would be Fugui Cape, but this was a little white lie. My Deuce outings are always capped with a sunset at a highway-side café, and on the advice of some expatriate friends I’d like to treat you to a cup of good coffee-bean cheer at the OIA Art Café, located just west of the 16.5-km marker. It is one among a cluster of roadside cafés featuring alfresco seating out back looking over a broad boardwalk and a wave-brushed tidal f lat a few hundred meters wide, many dressed up in Mediterranean style. Named after Oia village on the island of Santorini, it is indeed like a little slice of Greece on the Taiwan shore, done up in blue trim highlighting the bright white, complemented with quaint home-made artistic touches that are like splashes of pastel color on a simple blue-white canvas. OIA has a wide range of Western and Taiwanese snack and hot foods, and is open from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekdays, midnight weekends/holidays (2 a.m. in the summer).

Bizarre sandstone formations on the

rocky promontory have been carved by Mother

Nature the artist

THE BEST ROUTE

NORTH COAST

Rock formation near Nanya on the northeast coast

The menu of sites explored on this occasion was chosen as

a demonstration sampling, all tackled on a single, very long day. Not a one got the full time it deserved. I strongly suggest that you spread them over at least two days, most logically with the northeast coast the f irst day, a stay in/around Keelung that night, and the north coast the next day. Quality hotel accommodations are concentrated in Keelung and the north coast’s Feicuiwan (Emerald/Green Bay), just east of Yeliu. There are also a number of hot-spring spas around the north coast town of Jinshan, and the region offers more and more quality homestays of iconoclastic character.

Beyond the café and Fugui Cape eateries already mentioned, other good food options are the popular cluster of seafood restaurants that line the highway at Aodi f ishing port, at the 95-km mark, and Keelung City’s Miaokou Night Market, one of Taiwan’s best, located right downtown near the harbour on Ren 3rd Rd. and Ai 4th Rd. There are hundreds of stalls, despite the “night” in the name it is open in the daytime too, and I strongly recommend

the tianbula, which as you can tell from the pronunciation is Taiwan’s yummy version of tempura.

A wealth of helpful detail on the many places to visit, stay, and eat awaits you at the following online locations: Taiwan Tourism Bureau (www.taiwan.net.tw), North Coast & Guanyinshan National Scenic Area (www.northguan-nsa.gov.tw), Northeast and Yilan Coast National Scenic Area (www.necoast-nsa.gov.tw), and Keelung Off icial Tourist Information Website (tour.kclg.gov.tw).

Happy trails, and smooth sailing!{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Feicuiwan 翡翠灣

Fugui Cape 富貴角

Fugui Cape Lighthouse 富貴角燈塔Fugui Cape Park 富貴角公園

Jinshan 金山

Longdong Tunnel 龍洞隧道

Longdongwan 龍洞灣岬步道 Cape TrailMiaokou Night Market 廟口夜市Sandiao Cape 三貂角

Sandiao Cape 三貂角燈塔 Lighthousetianbula 甜不辣

Yeliu 野柳

Yeliu Geopark 野柳地質公園

OiA ART CAFÉ (伊亞藝術咖啡館)Tel: (02) 2636-3766 Add: 19-1, Beishizi, Houcuo Village, Sanzhi District, New Taipei City (新北市三芝區後厝村北勢子19-1號)

Practical Info

Sandiao Cape

Sandiao Cape

Fulong

Jiufen

Longdongwan

Bitou Cape

NEast China Sea

Keelung City

Feicuiwan

Taipei City

North Coast

Northeast

Coast

YeliuJinshan

Fugui Cape

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Off to the Beach!

One summer day, sweltering heat in the city, hop on a train

northbound: city, suburbs, green hills, river scenery, villages, the sea,

the BEACH!!!

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HAPPINESS!

Photo Memories of a Trip to Fulong

Travel in Taiwan 36

MY PHOTO TOUR

Photos/ Jen-Guo Chen

Travel in Taiwan 37

LOMO STYLE

FOOD JOURNEY

Travel in Taiwan 38

A tea farmer in Pinglin examines his tea bushes

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Travel in Taiwan 39

Travel in Taiwan 39

Standing on top of a steep ridge admiring the magnif icent view, we see

the hillside dropping away steeply on either side of the little track, which is barely wide enough for a car. Row upon row of neatly trimmed little tea bushes with small, leathery, dark-green leaves wind around the curves of the incline like contour l ines on a map. Other, similar f ields cling to the equally precipitous hillsides across the deep valley. It’s still a month before the busy tea-harvesting season starts, but as we enjoy the splendid views, we see a tea farmer below us scrutinizing the little bushes for signs of insect or fungal damage. As we are to f ind out, a tea farmer ’s work is never done!

We’re in the hills high above Pinglin, in eastern New Taipei City (until recently called Taipei County), one of Taiwan’s main tea-growing areas and the source of the island’s best Baozhong tea.

Two main roads lead to Pinglin, deep in the emerald-green foothills of the Snow Mountain Range, about 30 kilometers southeast of the capital. This l ittle town would be worth visiting just to enjoy the scenic beauty of the drive. National Highway No. 5, a freeway that opened in 2006, zips visitors from the center of Taipei City to Pinglin in less than 30 minutes by car, and when not passing through long tunnels the elevated carriageway presents wide, gorgeous vistas over densely wooded, sparsely populated hill country. Even more scenic is the old route, Provincial Highway No. 9, which connects

Xindian, Taipei City ’s southernmost suburb; you get to Pinglin in about an hour, with a succession of inspiring views en route through this beautiful section of the island, and glimpses over the deep aquamarine waters of the Feicui Reservoir, which snakes through a series of deep valleys to the right of the road.

Pinglin’s location in the catchment area of Feicui Reservoir has had an important impact on the town’s development, or rather preservation. Pinglin exists in a kind of time bubble, and

while new development has come to almost every other town and larger village in the Taipei area in the last decade or so, the center of Pinglin, amazingly, looks hardly any different now than in the 1990s. Nestled in a deep valley, the town is laid out along the Beishi River, whose clear water is an enchanting shade of blue-green in sunny weather. Nearly all the 6,000 or so inhabitants of the little town are involved in some way with the tea industry, and most of the businesses l ining the main road through town are either shops sell ing tea leaves, eateries serving local inhabitants, or small restaurants cooking up delicious, tea-inspired dishes for visiting tourists.

Pinglin is one of the best places in Taiwan for growing tea, partly due to the

northeast monsoon, which ensures that this region is a lot cooler, damper, and mistier during winter and early spring than the rest of the island. The area’s tea plantations, at an elevation of 200 to 600 meters above sea level, receive 3,000-4000 mill imeters of rain annually, and the average

Hills Shrouded in Mist

Pinglin is a lot cooler, damper, and mistier than

the rest of the island

By Richard Saunders

Visiting Pinglin, One of the Best Areas for Growing Tea in Taiwan

Surrounded by verdant hills covered with tea plantations, and home to an excellent tea museum, the town of Pinglin is a premium destination for those who want to learn about and get close to tea cultivation in Taiwan.

FOOD JOURNEY

Travel in Taiwan 40

temperature is a cool 18°C – conditions generally found elsewhere on the island only at higher elevations. The area’s farmers specialize in two kinds of tea: Dong Fang Mei Ren (Oriental Beauty) and Baozhong. The f irst, picked in small quantities here during the scorching height of summer, is unique in that it relies on the bites of insects called leaf hoppers, which trigger the bushes into releasing a natural chemical deterrent into the leaves. It’s this substance (perfectly safe for human consumption) that makes the tea so special. However, since Oriental Beauty tea is harvested just once a year, and is produced from only the bud and top two leaves of the shoot, it’s expensive and quite scarce.

The main crop of Pinglin is Baozhong tea – the town is the main producer of this variety in

Taiwan. As with other kinds of tea, the raw ingredient is the leaf of the Camellia sinensis plant; the distinctive f lavor, aroma, and color of the tea comes from the very specif ic fermentation and drying process the leaves are subjected to. Lightly fermented Baozhong tea, with its rich, amber color, is produced in winter and spring, when the tea bushes yield four harvests. Choosing the correct time to pick the young shoots is essential, as there’s a window of only about a week during which the leaves have the desired maturity.

The shoots must be picked on a dry day, preferably during the three or four hours around noon, when they contain the most nutrients. The leaves are then rushed back for the f irst of six processing steps, which must be completed within an 18-24 hour period. The f irst (and most critical) is fermentation. In southern Taiwan, this stage is of ten accomplished by leaving the leaves out in the sun; in Pinglin, however, where it is of ten cloudy, they are placed in special drums through which hot air is blown, inducing fermentation and developing f lavor. The exact timing varies, but the correct duration is crucial to obtaining the best possible f lavor, and requires much experience.

Next, the leaves are laid in large, shallow bamboo trays, where they are stirred, f irst by hand and then in a machine for a slightly more vigorous agitation, processes which lightly bruise them (releasing the oil trapped inside the half-dried leaves) and introduces air, allowing the oil to oxidize, and thus intensif ying the f lavor. This is by far the longest step in the making of Baozhong tea, taking up to 14 hours.

The leaves are then poured into an oven, where they’re dried at 300°C for about 6 minutes, which halts the fermentation process. They are next wrapped up in a piece of cloth formed into a large ball, then rolled in a curious contraption which both twists the leaves into long, curly strips and causes the release of natural oil. Final drying P

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Pinglin’s main crop is Baozhong tea — the town is the main producer of this variety in Taiwan

PINGLIN

Travel in Taiwan 41

Travel in Taiwan 41

around a small but beautifully landscaped garden.

Tea may be Pinglin’s raison d’être, but af ter touring the museum and enjoying a meal in one of the town’s tea-cuisine restaurants, there’s also the beautiful surroundings to be enjoyed. Take the trail starting beside the town's oldest temple, near the end of the town’s attractive Old Street, up the hillside behind for a very f ine view over the town and its ubiquitous tea f ields. As said, Pinglin is perhaps the best place in Taiwan to learn a l ittle about the production of Taiwan's favorite drink (and experience the atmosphere of a way of l ife that has largely vanished in most other places around Taipei), but as the wonderful view here demonstrates, it’s also an exceedingly lovely slice of countryside.

in a pair of ovens, one hot, the second cooler, and a second roll ing completes the process.

Tea production is a complicated and time-consuming process, and a great place to

discover more about this fascinating industry is to visit the excellent Pinglin Tea Museum, on the edge of town beside an idyllic blue meandering stretch of the Beishi River. Opened in 1997 the museum is looking great af ter being refurbished in late 2010. Laid out on two f loors, it covers all aspects of the history of making and drinking tea, using a combination of photos, charts, and waxwork exhibits. One section charts tea production during the last thousand and more years, f rom the Tang Dynasty (618-907) to the present day, and another fascinating area is devoted to the tea-drinking culture. All the exhibits are labeled in English. The central courtyard is studded with f lowering camellias, beautiful cousins of the tea bushes growing in the hills above. Off the courtyard is a gif t shop that stocks an amazing array of tea-related products: tea leaves and tea bags (from all over Taiwan), tea sets for “old man’s tea” (more ceremonial tea preparation), tea candy, tea soap, tea oil, tea jelly, tea ice cream, and even tea noodles! The museum is open every day from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., and admission is free. Right next door is a tea shop, with pretty little ornamental pavilions dotted

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Baozhong tea 包種茶

Beishi River 北勢溪

Dong Fang Mei Ren tea 東方美人茶Feicui Reservoir 翡翠水庫

“old man’s tea” 老人茶

Old Street 老街

Pinglin 坪林

Snow Mountain Range 雪山山脈Xindian 新店

PiNGLiN TEA MUsEUM (坪林茶葉博物館)

Add: 19-1, Shuisong Qikeng, Shuide Village, Pinglin District, New Taipei City (新北市坪林區水德村水聳淒坑19-1號)Tel: (02) 2665-6035

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LET'S EAT!

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The health benefits of tea are these days well-known, so the idea of using it in the preparation of food makes excellent sense, especially when using tea leaves that are especially high in antioxidants, such as those used for producing green or Baozhong tea. Shunyi Teahouse in Pinglin is a fine example of how locally produced tea leaf and tea-seed oil can be used in a wide variety of dishes, from mountain-pork sausages to pesto sauce. By Richard Saunders

Tea CuisineTasting Delicious Dishes Made with Tea Leaf and Tea Seed Oil

TEA CUISINE

Travel in Taiwan 43

fried rice this writer has had for many moons.

Shunyi Teahouse was quite an eye-opener for someone whose only previous experience with tea cuisine was his mom’s bread pudding (soaking bread crumbs in cold tea rather than milk). The humble tea leaf and tea-seed oil, when used with imagination and creativity, each brings a distinctive and delicious f lavor to a variety of traditional dishes. And best of all: these are two additives that are truly healthy as well!

sHUNYi TEAHOUsE (順益茶館) TEL: (02) 2665-6090Add: 154-3 Shuiliu Jiao, Pinglin District, New Taipei City(新北市坪林區水柳腳154-3號)

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Alishan 阿里山

Baozhong tea 包種茶

Beishi River 北勢溪

Pinglin 坪林

dark-brown leaf imparting a pleasant color as well as f lavor to what would have otherwise been an unremarkable dish. Another simple but surprisingly tasty idea was the tea-seed oil rice: a mound of steamed white rice drizzled with delicately amber-colored tea oil.

Next up came tofu fried in tea-seed oil with spring onions, ginger, rice wine, carrot, and chili. We’d already tried the locally-made tofu earlier in the day at another eatery – and very good it was too – but the Shunyi version, fried until browned on the outside, yet remaining sof t and smooth inside, was a f lavor-f illed hit. The free-range chicken and pork-rib soup with whole tea leaves met with similar approval, but the unexpected highlight of the meal was the tea-seed oil f ried rice with pesto. Using its own house-made pesto (in which tea-seed oil is substituted for the usual olive oil), the Shunyi version of this old Chinese standard was the tastiest

Shunyi Teahouse occupies pole position

on the main street running through Pinglin: a large, simply decorated place, its greatest asset (apart from the delicious food) is its location right beside the aquamarine waters of the Beishi River. Tables on the partially covered balcony out the back give wonderful views over the river (f illed with f ish that glint as they wriggle against the fast-f lowing current and studded with members of the various bird species that feed on them).

The teahouse uses fresh, locally sourced ingredients in its dishes as much as possible, making its own tea-f lavored sausages (a top seller), and using locally made tofu and chickens raised by a member of the owner ’s family. At the heart of most of the dishes on offer are Baozhong tea leaf and tea-seed oil, the latter crushed from the seeds of local tea bushes grown especially for this purpose. Milder than the bitter tea oil produced in the Alishan area in the center-south of the island, Pinglin tea-seed oil is also great for cooking, as it retains its f lavor well when heated to high temperatures, and is richer in antioxidants than even olive oil, for which it is substituted in several dishes at Shunyi. According to scientif ic studies, Baozhong tea has three times the amount of antioxidants found in black tea, so it’s a healthy, as well as tasty, ingredient in any dish.

Shunyi’s most famous dish is probably its sausage, f lecked with dark specks of Baozhong tea leaf, which imparts a subtle and quite delicious f lavor to the meat; packs of the uncooked sausages are available to go, and can even be delivered to clients as far away as Taipei.

After trying Shunyi’s signature sausages,

we tucked into a selection of the teahouse’s other tea-themed delicacies. The tea-leaf omelet was novel, the

Tea-seed oil rice

Tea-leaf omelet

Tofu fried in tea-seed oil

Tea-flavored sausages

HISTORY

Travel in Taiwan 46

On a typical visit to Hualien County travelers will satiate their mochi cravings and feast on gorgeous Taroko Gorge scenery. There is much more to this area, however, waiting to be unraveled. The region is a locus of not just Han Chinese and indigenous culture but of Taiwan-based Japanese culture as well. It boasts scores of historical sites, remnants of flawlessly planned but ultimately unsuccessful immigrant villages, temples, tea plantations, and more – all from the period of Japanese occupation. By Linda Chu

Hualien: A Living Relic

Travel in Taiwan 46

Japanese-style Qingxiu Temple in Jian Township

HUALIEN

Travel in Taiwan 47

Located on the east coast of Taiwan, the city of Hualien has a population of

about 110,000. It is the capital of Hualien County, which has a population of about 340,000. While the city is neither the largest nor the most populous on the island, it is certainly one of the richest in terms of historical and cultural assets.

Prior to Japanese rule (1895~1945), the name of the city/county was Kilai, reference to an indigenous term. Since this name sounds like the term for “dislike” (kirai) in Japanese, the Japanese administration changed the name to a term pronounced “Hualien” in Mandarin Chinese in the early 20th century, and the new name stuck.

A pause to look beyond the modern shops and storefronts and a short step into one of the numerous historical landmarks that dot the city and surrounding county quickly force one’s imagination back to the Hualien of days past. Evidence of the Japanese presence is ever-present.

During the First Sino-Japanese War (1894–1895), on March 23, 1895, the residents of the Penghu Islands were abruptly awakened by the deafening sound of large cannons being f ired in rapid succession. In an almost bloodless encounter the Japanese occupied their home. On April 17, 1895, the people of the island of Taiwan awoke to life-changing news: They were no longer Chinese citizens, but rather Japanese subjects. A defeated and defenseless China had ceded parts of its empire, including Taiwan and the Penghu Islands, to Japan. A new epoch in Taiwan history had begun.

The Japanese were intent on transforming Taiwan into a model colony that in its eyes would gain it the respect of the world. The Taiwanese were, ultimately, to be assimilated into the Japanese culture. Change permeated every aspect of life – and one of the chosen centers of life for the Japanese on the island was none other than the city of Hualien and its surrounding area. Why Hualien, you ask?

After much research, the Japanese government found this area most suitable for its purposes – i.e., initiating a series of meticulously planned immigrant villages. One goal was to ease population stresses in the home islands. Hualien was lush, fertile, mountainous, and had good ports with easy access from inland areas. The Japanese even relocated citizens from parts of Japan that had conditions most closely resembling those of Hualien.

Jiye (Yoshino) Village, located in Jian Township, and Fengtian (Toyota) Village, situated in Fenglin Township, emerged as two of the most prosperous settlements. Village grids were laid out like the squares of a chessboard; even the f loors of the houses were square-shaped. They had everything from clinics, shrines, and schools to off ices that provided farming technology.

Today, traces of the Japanese occupation and immigration scheme still remain. In

Fengtian, Japanese-style houses are hidden amidst rows of newly erected buildings. Community organizations have dedicated their efforts to preserving these and other structures and to sharing the history with others. Many of these half-century-old buildings now have modern uses.

A few steps from the Fengtian Railway Station is a Japanese-style hut that houses a thrift shop called 5 Way House. At f irst glance, it seems nothing much more than a place with other people’s unwanted junk. But this shop is special, one reason being that it is run by students with the guidance of counselors from the Hualien County Nou-Li InterCommunity Association.

Accepting donations ranging from pots to mosquito traps, this thrift shop is part of a youth program, and all proceeds go towards the program’s funding. Like other rural communities in Taiwan, those in Hualien face the problem of an aging population, with most members of the younger generation relocating to the city for work, only the elderly

and the youngest remaining. This program (open to youth of all ages) was started to mitigate this problem.

It’s diff icult to discern the lifestyle of the former Japanese occupants just by looking at the old residences in this area. But clearly, it was not all smooth sailing. To ease bouts

of homesickness, these early pioneers brought along some essential comforts of home for transplanting – among them religious beliefs, public baths, and even pine trees!

One notable site of worship, Qingxiu Temple, was built in Jian in 1917. Today it’s the only Japanese temple in Taiwan that’s still completely preserved. It houses 88 stone Buddha sculptures, one brought over to Taiwan from each of the temples in Shikoku, the home island in Japan for many of these immigrants. P

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The Japanese were intent on transforming Taiwan into a model colony that in its eyes would gain it the respect of the world

5 Way House in Fengshan Village

HISTORY

Travel in Taiwan 48

While prayer nourished the soul, public baths (precursor to hot-spring resorts) rejuvenated the body. This beloved Japanese custom is today an inseparable part of life in Taiwan for local folk as well, ranking high on the list of favorite leisure activities. Particularly popular is the open-air Ruisui Hot Spring, minutes from the Ruisui Railway Station. Constructed in 1917, it originally had a public bath and a Japanese-style hotel. This secluded, serene spa has Taiwan’s only natural hot spring with high iron content, the iron oxidizing when exposed to air and giving the water an unusual yellow tint. Legend has it that a soak in this hot spring will increase one’s chances of having a baby boy!

If a hot soak in a pristine natural setting didn’t ease the pangs of homesickness, gazing at pine trees brought from home would sometimes help. Built in 1943, today’s Pine Garden was a Japanese naval base during World War

II. With 60 (originally nearly 200) large, century-old pine trees , the tranquil garden sits on a plateau and faces the estuary of the Meilun River, which f lows out to the Pacif ic Ocean. It’s been said that on the eve of their suicide missions, kamikaze pilots would enjoy their last supper here, f inishing with a toast of rice wine bestowed by the Japanese emperor. Today you can sit back and savor the history while savoring a cup of premium local tea.

Industrialization was an important goal of the Japanese colonial administration, which initiated large-scale sugar and tea production as well as, to a lesser extent, coffee. Sugarcane was by far the leading cash crop of the time. One of the leading ref ineries was the Yamato Factory (now Hualien Sugar Factory), which though it no longer ref ines sugar is certainly a place where visitors can meander about to get a good sense of the past, tour the Sugar Factory

On the eve of their suicide missions, kamikaze pilots would enjoy their last supper at Pine Garden

1. At Qingxiu Temple 2. Pine Garden 3. Statue of the Japanese man who introduced the planting of cof fee trees in Hualien 4. Guesthouse at Hualien Sugar Factory 5. Old Yamato Factory dormitory 6.

Japanese- style gate in Fengtian village

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Travel in Taiwan 49

Museum, and then cool down with a bowl of its famous shaved-ice desserts. You can also rent one of the newly renovated Japanese-built bungalows for a few days, waking up to the sounds of chirping birds and cascading water.

If sugar isn’t your cup of tea, there’s also coffee. At the Dongsen Tea Shop, sip on a cup of coffee brewed from beans harvested from those very trees brought by the Japanese over a century ago. When all is said and done, the most important attraction of all – food, of course – is not to be missed. While there are numerous Japanese restaurants in the city of Hualien, Imari stands out as the most creative and authentic. Located in the city’s heart this is a dream come true for the owners, Mr. and Mrs. Maeda. They started this restaurant because of their love for food and their desire to create

Japanese cuisine that suits Taiwanese taste buds. For instance, the Taiwanese are not accustomed to eating cold foods, so in Imari’s beautifully designed and extensive set meal, which includes everything from the freshest sashimi to four types of dessert, the bowl of warming miso soup and the piping-hot right-out-of-the-steamer chawan-mushi (Japanese egg custard) are served directly after (or along with) the cold sashimi dishes.

Even though Hualien city and county may have taken a political and economic back seat to booming areas in other parts of Taiwan, there is no doubt it remains a hub of culture. Although the Japanese returned to their homeland after WW II, remnants of their inf luence are so harmonized with local life that it’s diff icult to discern what is Japanese and what is Taiwanese.

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Fengtian Railway Station 豐田車站

Fengtian (Toyota) Village 豐田村

Hualien 花蓮

Hualien County Nou-Li 花蓮縣牛犁社 InterCommunity Association 區交流協會Ji’an Township 吉安鄉

Jiye (Yoshino) Village 吉野村

Kilai 奇萊

Meilun River 美崙溪

Penghu Islands 澎湖群島

Qingxiu Temple 慶修院

Ruisui Hot Springs 瑞穗溫泉

Ruisui Railway Station 瑞穗車站

HUALIEN

iMARi (伊万里)Add: 86, Sec. 4, Zhongyang Rd., Hualien City, Hualien County(花蓮市中央路四段86號)Tel: (03) 846-3388www.imari.com.tw

QiNGXiU TEMPLE (慶修院)Add: 345-1, Zhongxing Rd., Jian Township, Hualien County(花蓮縣吉安鄉中興路345-1號)Tel: (03) 852-9905

PiNE GARDEN (松園別館)Add: 26, Shuiyuan St., Hualien City, Hualien County(花蓮縣花蓮市水源街26號)Tel: (03) 835-6510www.pinegarden.com.tw (Chinese)

5 WAY HOUsE (五味屋)Add: 34, Zhanqian St., Fengshan Village, Shoufeng Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣壽豐鄉豐山村站前街34號)Tel: (03) 865-6922 www.5wayhouse.org (Chinese)

RUisUi HOT sPRiNG REsORT (瑞穗溫泉山莊)Add: 23, Hongye Village, Wanrong Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣萬榮鄉紅葉村34號)Tel: (03) 887-2170, 887-0824www.js-hotpring.com.tw (Chinese)

HUALiEN COUNTY NOU-Li iNTERCOMMUNiTY AssOCiATiON (牛犁社區交流協會)Add: 37, Zhongxing St., Shoufeng Township, Hualien County(花蓮縣壽 鄉豐山村中興街37號)Tel: (03) 865-0423

DONGsEN TEA HOUsE(東昇茶行)Add: 356-1, 13 Lin, Wuhe Village, Ruisui Township, Hualien County(花蓮縣瑞穗鄉舞鶴村256之1號)Tel: (03) 887-1878, 0933-486-946

HUALiEN sUGAR FACTORY (花蓮光復糖廠)Add: 19, Tangchang St., Dajin Village, Guangfu Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣光復鄉糖廠街19號)Tel: (03) 870-5881http://www.hualiensugar.com.tw/

Japanese restaurant “Imari” Guesthouse of Hualien Sugar Factory

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Travel in Taiwan 54

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Peculiar Taiwan

Been on the island awhile now and wielding a mean set of

chopsticks? Pretty comfy with the etiquette of the local

table? Let’s roll that videotape and see how you’ve done.

The one big no-no is sticking your chopsticks straight up in your

bowl. This resembles the incense sticks in censers during rites for the

deceased, and you’re inviting Death to visit. Do this in a restaurant and

you’re inviting this for the proprietor. Another no-no is to point your

chopsticks at anyone, which is like wielding a weapon – you’re wishing

them harm.

Something Westerners will do is lick yummy juicy stuff from their

fingers. Yes, another no-no. Chinese society has long understood the

dirtiness of hands – one reason for the traditional lack of handshakes.

You’ll see people at KFC and McDonald’s holding chicken and burgers in

paper napkins to avoid hand contact.

Guilty on any counts? Fret not. I’ve learned first-hand that any faux

pas is forgiven and, I’m guessing, not even pointed out, for local folk are

conscious of preserving your face and generally pleased as punch you’ve

an interest in their cuisine and culture.

The Dao of the Local Table By Rick Charette

No~~!

Hey~!

ON STAGE/OFF STAGE

Travel in Taiwan 56

If you are looking for center stage in the universe of Taiwan live theater, you will soon hear the names “Stan Lai” and “Performance Workshop.” The first is the man with the artistic vision, the second is the vehicle through which this vision is expressed. The power of this vision is perhaps best expressed in the fact that the troupe’s greatest success, the play “Secret Love in Peach Blossom Land,” was chosen as one of the top plays of the past century.

Travel in Taiwan 56

By Rick Charette

Performance Workshop

Fountainhead of Modern Chinese Theater

Well-known Taiwanese actors Feng Yi-kang and Chu Chung-heng play two modern-day travelers in “Crosstalk Travelers”

PERFORMANCE WORKSHOP

Travel in Taiwan 57

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Stan Lai , without a doubt, is

Taiwan’s most beloved and successful playwright/director. He stands at the head of the vanguard of modern Chinese theater, with 30 original plays to date. His most famous work, Secret Love in Peach Blossom Land (1986), has toured the world, and was made into an award-winning f ilm in 1992. Over a thousand unauthorized productions of the work have been staged to date in China, and the f ilm is used as a standard reference model in f ilm and drama programs.

A more recent work, The Village (2008), delves into the

world of the military dependents’ villages created

in Taiwan by Chiang Kai-shek and his Nationalist government

af ter losing mainland China to the Communists in the late 1940s. It has been acclaimed by the Bei jing News, amongst others, as the most signif icant Chinese work of the past decade, “the pinnacle of our era of theater.”

What most people think of when you mention Performance Workshop, however, is its revival of a traditional form of theater that, until Lai moved to revive it, was almost defunct in Taiwan. It is called “crosstalk,” or “comic dialogue,” and Western readers might think of it as, in its purest form, the Chinese version of stand-

up comedy. Typically, two actors

stand on a stage that has only the

most basic of props and backdrops, if

any at all, and engage in rapid-f ire

repartee on all manner of subjects. The

talk is dialogue, not stand-up jokes,

and there is nothing we would call

“vaudevill ian.” Lai has created f ive

crosstalk works to date, all extremely

popular, the most recent this year ’s

widely acclaimed Crosstalk Travelers.

The Search for MeaningAfter a recent evening spent

joyfully watching a performance of

Crosstalk Travelers at Taipei’s National

Theater, I had the good fortune to

spend an agreeable few hours speaking

with the troupe’s managing director,

Ding Nai-chu, at a local café. Ding

is Stan Lai’s work partner, his wife

and thus life partner, and is also a

respected actress and producer.

“If there’s one theme that runs

through all our plays, all the scripts

that Stan has created, it is the search

for the truly meaningful in l ife as

we face its demands and struggle

through the travails it forces upon

us. From sorrow comes joy, because of

understanding and hope.”

For example, Peach Blossom Land

explores the all-too-familiar story

of Chinese people forced to leave

their homes. The Village depicts

the diff iculties of l ife in a Taiwan

military dependents’ village populated

by the families of Nationalist

soldiers uprooted from their l ives in

China when Chiang Kai-shek lost the

mainland, where joy and meaning are

found in the face of poverty and an

insecure social position. “In our most

recent production, Crosstalk Travelers,

we travel the world vicariously via

the experience of two stranded globe-

trotting characters, showing that many

people travel but ‘see’ nothing and at

the same time showing there is also

great meaning in the everyday, close to

home.”

Performance Workshop plays address

and incorporate elements of traditional

l ife and traditional theatrical forms,

“but Stan always wants to push at

theatrical boundaries, and to make our

productions relevant for contemporary

audiences and modern-day existence.”

Thus, the plot of Peach Blossom Land

has two theater troupes forced to

rehearse in one location; this treats

the audience to one troupe working on

a comedy in medieval costume and the

other on a tragedy with a decidedly

contemporary setting.

In Crosstalk Travelers you have two

modern-day travelers from Taiwan

stranded on an unnamed island-

country af ter a revolution. “Crosstalk,”

explains Ding,“ is an ancient Chinese

theatrical form, but only in certain

segments do the actors fully adhere

to the technique in its traditional

strict and highly stylized/formalized

presentation style; instead, for the

most part the play will strike the

crosstalk-uninitiated as an easily

accessible two-man play,” with modern

costume, props, background, and subject

matter. “Stan became enamored with

“(Secret Love in Peace Blossom Land)

may be the most popular contemporary

play in China…by the end, the audience

is left to contemplate the burdens of

memory, history, longing, love and the

power of theater itself.”

(The New York Times)

Scene from “Crosstalk Travelers”

ON STAGE / OFF STAGE

Travel in Taiwan 58

crosstalk decades back while visiting China, and wanted to rejuvenate the form here in Taiwan while making it a bit more accessible for modern palates. In his f ive crosstalk works he’s moved from a strictly traditional style to a modern interpretation that is still faithful to the original.”

The troupe has traveled the world, with stellar success. When presenting The Village in the West, Lai and Ding created subtitles to make the play accessible to non-Chinese speakers, using them when the occasion was appropriate. English subtitles are not used when on stage in Taiwan, however, and are not for the moment being contemplated.

Creative GenesisWhen Lai has decided to

consolidate an idea, he will lock himself away for about a week, emerging with a workable framework. “Wherever he goes he is constantly writing down inspirations,” says Ding. “I f ind them written down on all types of paper, and gather them for him, for he quickly moves on. I dare not throw anything away or assume even the smallest scrap can be declared garbage. He’ ll then more or less disappear for a week or so, distracted from other matters, and

reappear with a completed blueprint we can use to work on with our chosen actors, developing characters and detailed dialogue.”

Performance Workshop has off ices in the Taipei suburb of Xizhi, but no permanent studio. When a script outline is ready, actors are chosen. “We have about 16 actors in the troupe, but when we cast a play we choose from both inside and outside. We do not ‘raise’ our own talent and keep them only in our own tent. Stan will cast the actor he considers best for a specif ic role, and there are a number of leading actors with great range that he has worked with many times – the two leads in Crosstalk Travelers perfect examples.”

In the troupe’s early years actors were not so busy, with opportunities fewer. Since the lif ting of martial law in the late 1980s opportunities have exploded, on stage as well as in f ilm and television. The result is that actors have far less time to commit to a project. “How this has impacted us,” says Ding, “is that in the past Stan liked to come up with a basic framework, bring his actors together, and then work out the script with heavy actor input, working as a team. This is no longer possible, and we

tend to have actors commit to projects much closer to when formal rehearsals begin. Stan is thus obliged to evolve a much more detailed outline; in fact, a completed initial script is now the norm, though signif icant changes are made during rehearsals with actor input, especially with those we are used to working with.

The Immediate FutureDing says that the troupe will be performing almost without break well into next year, both at home and abroad. Among the highlights for theater af icionados in Taiwan this year will be two special presentations of The Village in September and a “rock musical play” Lai is creating for this year ’s Republic of China centennial celebrations. For more detailed information, visit www.pwshop.com

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{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

crosstalk 相聲

Crosstalk Travelers 那一夜，在旅途中說相聲Ding Nai-chu 丁乃竺

Performance 表演工作坊 WorkshopSecret Love In 暗戀桃花源 Peach Blossom LandStan Lai 賴聲川

The Village 寶島一村

Xizhi 汐止

“Stan is probably the best Chinese-language playwright and director right now.” (Int’l Herald Tribune)

If you want to get close to indigenous culture in Taiwan and you are based in Taipei, perhaps your best option is the small town of Wulai, located in the

southern part of New Taipei City (until recently “Taipei County”). Wulai, also spelled “Ulay,” is the northernmost settlement of the Atayal people, the second-largest indigenous tribe in Taiwan, whose homeland is in the foothills and mid-altitude mountains in the north of the island. Atayal women are known for their exceptional weaving skills, practicing impressively precise and often complicated weaving techniques. On a recent trip to Wulai we had the chance to learn about Atayal culture, and were shown the basics of inkle weaving by a local teacher, Gao Yu-lan, of the Wulai Indigenous Weaving Association.

Weaving in Wulai

To show us the basics of weaving, Ms. Gao explained to us how an inkle

loom works. This type of loom (not invented by the Atayal, but centuries ago in Europe) is placed on a table and is used to weave narrow bands. Our “classroom” was the patio behind the gift shop, with the impres-sive Wulai Waterfall as backdrop.

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For our beginner’s lesson we were shown how to thread the loom with

warp (the threads that run lengthways) for a 1cm-wide and 15cm-long bracelet in three colors.

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In total there were 24 warp threads, alternating between 12 threads going across the top peg of the loom

and 12 passing beneath that peg. The 12 threads that went across were held back by short threads (heddles) attached to a peg at the bottom of the loom.

Once the warp was attached to the loom, the weaving began. We simply

passed the shuttle with thread (weft) from left to right and back from right to left through the opening (shed) between the warp threads, created by alternately push-ing the lower warp threads up and down.

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Learning Handicraft Basics from a Member of the Atayal Tribe

By Kurt Weidner

Warp

heddles

this is fun! Shuttle

LEARNING EXPERIENCE

Travel in Taiwan 60

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Atayal patterns usually have sym-bolic meaning. On this occasion we

created a bracelet showing “eyes” on both sides and “steps” in the middle to symbol-ize “climbing up the ladder of success.” The center part of another bracelet shown to us by Ms. Gao resembled the facial tattoos Atayal women had in the old days, which communicated different meanings depend-ing on type.

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After reaching the desired length for the bracelet it was time to cut the

thread and remove the work from the loom. Both ends of the bracelet were braided, with an opening left on one end to put through the other end when wearing it.

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Mission accomplished. The design we created was very simple; Atayal

weaving is usually much more complicated and sophisticated. Nevertheless, it was fun to enjoy such a hands-on indigenous-handicrafts opportunity, especially in such truly special surroundings.

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Before leaving we sat down at the café adjacent to the gift shop and

tried an amazingly rich-flavored coffee. The secret behind this coffee’s deep flavor were tiny black seeds called macau by the locals, collected in the wooded mountains around Wulai. Chewing some of the seeds presented to us released an intoxicating mix of flavors resembling lemon, ginger, and peppermint. Definitely a must-try!

Take the MRT Xindian (Green) Line to the terminal s tation, Xindian. From there, take Xindian Bus Co. bus No. 849 to the las t s top at Wulai’s large car park. Walk to Wulai Old (Commercial) Street, crossing one river bridge before reaching the s treet and another one when leaving it, and ascend a wooden s taircase to the mini train (also named “Wulai Trolley” or “Wulai Log Car t”) s tation. Take the train to the Wulai Waterfall Area (NT$50 one way). The ride along the 1.6-km line takes about 5 minutes (trains run until 5pm; walking to the waterfall area takes about 20 minutes). The Atayal Wulai gift shop is the firs t shop on the left when you walk from the railway s tation to the waterfall area.

GETTING THERE

Atayal Wulai, Wulai Indigenous Weaving Association (泰雅烏來；新北市烏來區原住民編織協會)

Add: 1 Pubu, Wulai District, New Taipei City (新北市烏來區瀑布路1號)Tel:0970-097-069Email: [email protected]

Add: No. 12, Wulai St., Wulai Dist., New Taipei City (新北市烏來區烏來里烏來街12號)Tel:0970-097-069Web: www.atayal.tpc.gov.tw

Wulai Atayal Museum (烏來泰雅族博物館)

Before heading to the waterfall area you might want to make a stop at the Wulai Atayal Mu-seum, located right on busy Wulai Old Street. This small museum gives you a comprehensive introduction in Chinese and English to the history, the land, and the lifestyle of the Atayal tribe.

Wulai Forestry Life Museum (烏來林業生活館)Opened earlier this year, this small museum at the waterfall area provides you with all you want to know about the fascinating story of Wulai’s mini-train line, from its construction in the 1920s as a transport link for the local lumber industry to its transformation into a means of transport for tourists starting in the late 1960s.

Location: On the left side of the water-fall area’s main street.

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Atayal 泰雅族

Gao Yu-lan 高玉蘭

macau 馬告

Wulai 烏來

Wulai Waterfall 烏來瀑布

eyessteps

facial

tattoo

WEAVING

Travel in Taiwan 61

FESTIVAL

Blossoms are all around during springtime and early summer in Taiwan. After the blooming cherry, plum, and apricot trees and the gorgeous azalea bushes in March and April, and after the recently concluded half-year-long Taipei Int’l Flora Expo flower celebration, the feast for lovers of floral beauty isn’t over just yet. The month of May is time to go out to the wooded hills of northwestern Taiwan and other parts of the island to walk under and across the snow-white blossoms of the ubiquitous tung tree.

Snow-White Delight Enjoying Beautiful Blossoms and

Hakka Culture during the Hakka Tung Blossom Festival By Christine Harris

Travel in Taiwan 62

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common in Japan, the site features

a map showing the current status of

blossoming in different parts of Taiwan,

a great help when planning a trip. The

map of Taiwan shows you where to find

tung trees and uses icons to represent

the stage of blooms, and there is a

frequently updated section with recent

photographs from different locations.

Making this service possible are

hundreds of local volunteers who collect

and document the latest information in

their respective areas.

In recent years the Hakka Tung

Blossom Festival has become

an increasingly popular happening,

growing steadily in scale and drawing

ever larger numbers of visitors to the

tung tree forests and the many cultural

events organized by local governments.

In 2010 the festival attracted a total

of 6 million visitors, and this year the

number is expected to rise even higher

thanks to the many additional events

planned in locations close to where

the tung trees blossom. A total of 13

counties and cities, 45 townships and

city districts, and 120 government and

private organizations are involved in

the organization of the festival, and

more than 2,000 activities, including 34

medium- and large-scale cultural events,

are being staged in April and May.

To get an idea of the scope of the

festival, a visit to the official

website at http://tung.hakka.gov.

tw is highly recommended. The site

has Chinese, English, and Japanese

versions, and presents you detailed and

practical information about the events.

Similar to the cherry-blossom forecasts

Travel in Taiwan 63

Pingtung

Edison Travel Service specializes in Taiwan toursand offers cheaper hotel room rates and car rental services with drivers .Edison welcomes contact with other travelservices around the world.

TaipeiKeelung

Taoyuan

Yilan

Hsinchu

Miaoli

Taichung

Nantou HualienChanghua

Yunlin

Chiayi

Tainan

TaitungKaohsiung

TUNG BLOSSOM FESTIVAL

Tung blossoms can be seen in 13 cities and counties around Taiwan

FESTIVAL

Travel in Taiwan 64

Though Tung trees can be found in

number in many parts of Taiwan, but

their concentration is highest in the

counties of Miaoli and Hsinchu in the

island’s northwest. These counties

also have the highest concentration

of Hakka people in Taiwan, an ethnic

group that over the last century has had

a close relationship with the tree and

its attractive blossoms. The Hakka Tung

Blossom Festival is thus held both to

celebrate the beauty of the blossoms and

to showcase the Hakka’s rich culture,

doing much to strengthen the local

economy.

The festival gives travelers plenty

of reasons to go for a hike

and visit Hakka towns and villages that

are a bit off the beaten track. During

the several hundred cultural events

staged at this time you get the chance

to taste traditional Hakka fare, listen

to traditional Hakka music and watch

other forms of entertainment, and buy unique traditional handicrafts. The close relationship of the Hakka with the tung tree is evident in the fact that they have adopted the blossom as a symbol of their culture and as a motif on a wide variety of handicrafts, from traditional garb to innovative pottery.

Tung Tree Blossoms

The blossoms are beloved for their colorful beauty – pure-white petals and bright-red fila-ments with yellow anthers. What makes them especially popular in Taiwan is their snow-like appearance; because of their large size and great numbers, trees and ground seen from afar seem to be covered with a layer of snow. When the blossoms fall to the ground in quantity they often completely cover stretches of country roads and hiking trails, not unlike fallen snow – the phenomenon often referred to as “May Snow”in Taiwan.

ABouT The Tung Tree

The tung tree is a deciduous tree that grows up to 20 meters high. It is common in south-ern China, Burma, and northwestern Taiwan, and has long been used commercially for the production of tung oil, which is derived from its seeds. During the Japanese occupation of Taiwan (1895~1945), the tree was planted in large numbers in the hills of Miaoli, which offered ideal conditions for its growth. The oil was used in paint, varnish, caulking, wood finish, and for other purposes such as the coat-ing of paper umbrellas. The wood was made into furniture, wooden clogs, toothpicks, and matches. Eventually, however, the tree lost its commercial value when cheaper synthetic alter-natives to tung oil became available. The tree plantations were abandoned, and the trees soon spread at random over large neighboring areas, creating the tung-tree forests that exist today.

Photo by Lin Guo-Zhang Photo by Li Sheng-zhang

Photo by Shi Hong-xiu

Photo by Luo Yi-lun

Photo by Zhang Xiu-xiang

Travel in Taiwan 65

UPCOMINGFestivals and Events from May to July 2011

APR 30 ~ JUN 26

Fulong Sand Sculpture Festival 2011福隆沙雕藝術季

Sand, sunshine, and sea; giant sand sculptures by master sculptors from Taiwan and abroad; sand sculpture contests and beach games for everyoneLocation: Fulong Beach, Gongliao District, New Taipei City (新北市貢寮區福隆海水浴場 )Tel: (02) 2499-1115 ext. 228

JUL 9 ~ AUG 21

Yilan International Children’s Folklore & Folkgame Festival 宜蘭國際童玩藝術節

Fun festival for kids; water games, stage performances, exhibitions, workshops, and creative markets; great chance for children to learn about traditional games and take part in hands-on activities.Location: Dongshan River Water Park, Wujie Township, Yilan County (宜蘭縣五結鄉冬山河親水公園 )Tel: (03) 932-2440

MAY 26 ~ 30Taipei Food Festival & World Championship of Cookery in Taipei 台北國際食尚秀暨世界 廚王台北爭霸賽

Annual festival presenting gourmet cuisine and delicious traditional snacks; this year staged at the EXPO Dome of the Taipei Int’ l Flora Expo; chefs from Taiwan and abroad compete against each other at the World Championship of Cookery.Location: Expo Dome, Yuanshan Park Area (台北花博圓山公園區爭艷館 )Tel: (02) 2381-3260 Website: www.cookking.com.tw

For more information on upcoming festivals and events visit the website of the Tourism Bureau at http://eng.taiwan.net.tw and click on “Festivals” or call the 24-hour toll-free Travel Information Hotline at 0800-011765.

Now ~ JUN 30Penghu Fireworks Festival 澎湖海上花火節

Splendid firework shows lasting 15 minutes each Monday and Thursday at 9 p.m.; stage performances and concerts by local artists; a great way of ending a day of sightseeing on the islands of Penghu. Location: Sea wall near Guanyin Pavilion and Xiyinghong Bridge, Magong City, Penghu County (澎湖縣馬公市觀音亭西瀛虹橋海堤 )Tel: (06) 921-6521Website: www.penghu-nsa.gov.tw

Now ~ JUN 3Baosheng Cultural Festival 保生文化祭

Festival celebrating the birthday of Baosheng Dadi, the Lord Protector of Life, with performances of traditional Taiwanese opera, glove-puppet shows, setting off of firecrackers, and deity parade around local streets.Location: Baoan Temple (61, Hami St., Taipei City; 台北市哈密街 61號 )Tel: (02) 2595-1676 Website: www.baoan.org.tw

Now ~ AUG North Coast Wedding Photography Contest 北海岸婚紗留倩影

Contest for local and foreign photographers; photo subjects are scenic spots along the North Coast, including beaches, rock formations, seaside cafés, and cultural sites; winners receive cash prizes and the chance to exhibt their worksLocation: North Coast and Guanyinshan National Scenic Area (北海岸及觀音山國家風景區)Tel: (02) 8635-5151Website: www.northguan-nsa.gov.tw

Travel in Taiwan 65

AdvertisementHOTEL INFORMATION

Travel in Taiwan66

No. of Rooms: 538

Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 12,000 Deluxe Room NT$ 13,000 Junior Suite NT$ 20,500 Corner Suite NT$ 30,500 Residence NT$ 17,000 Elite Suite NT$ 24,500Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:English, Japanese, Chinese

RestauRaNts:Szechuan & Cantonese Cuisine, Japanese Cuisine, Steak House & Teppanyaki, Lounge Bar, Buffet, Café

sPecial featuRes: Executive business center, fitness center, sauna, rooftop swim-ming pool, SPA, ballroom and convention facilities, parking, laundry service, 24-hour room service, wireless Internet, airport transportation service

41 Chung Shan (Zhongshan) N. Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City, 104

1 0 4台北市中山北路二段41號

Tel: 02.2523.8000Fax: 02.2523.2828

www.grandformosa.com.tw

THE REGENT TAIPEI台北晶華酒店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 241Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 7,000 Premier Room NT$ 8,000 Deluxe Room NT$ 9,000 Junior Suite NT$ 10,000 Garden Suite NT$ 16,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:Japanese, English, Chinese

RestauRaNts: La Fusion Restaurant, La Fusion Bakery, Hanazono Japanese Restaurant, La Fusion Bar, La Fusion Deli

sPecial featuRes: Fitness Center, Business Center, Conference & Dining Facilities; (Rooms Facilities) 32” LCD TV/Pay Broadband Internet Access/Multi Channel Satellite TV with Domestic and Foreign Programming/En-suite Shower and Bath/TOTO Washlet

1, Zhonghua Rd. Sec. 2, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City 10065

1 0 0 6 5台北市中正區中華路二段1號

Tel: 886.2.2314.6611 Fax: 886.2.2314.5511 E-mail: [email protected]

www.taipeigarden.com.tw

TAIPEI GARDEN HOTEL台北花園大酒店 Taipei 台北

Hotels of Taiwan

V isitors to Taiwan have a wide range of choice

when it comes to accommodation. From five-

star luxury hotels that meet the highest international

standards, to affordable business hotels, to hot-

spring and beach resort hotels, to privately-run

homestays located in the countryside there is a place

to stay that satisfies every traveler’s needs. What

all hotels of Taiwan — small and big, expensive and

affordable — have in common is that serve and

hospitality are always of the highest standards. The

room rates in the following list have been checked

for each hotel, but are subject to change without

notice. Room rates at the hotels apply.

No. of Rooms: 487 (Suites: 57)Room Rates: Single/DBL NT$ 5,700 – 11,000 Suite NT$ 15,000 – 28,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, French, Spanish, and Japanese

RestauRaNts: Western, Cantonese, Northern China Style Dumplings, tea house, coffee shop

sPecial featuRes: Grand Ballroom, conference rooms for 399 people, 10 breakout rooms, business center, fitness center, sauna, Olympic-size swimming pool, tennis courts, billiards

1 Chung shan N. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City, 10461 R.O.C1 0 4 6 1台北市中山北路四段1號

Tel: 886.2.2886.8888Fax: 886.2.2885.2885

www.grand-hotel.org

THE GRAND HOTEL圓山大飯店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 72Room Rates: Superior Single NT$ 5,500+10% Superior Twin NT$ 6,000+10% Deluxe Single NT$ 6,000+10% Leader Suite NT$ 10,000+10% Executive Suite NT$ 15,000+10%

(Rooms on sale starting at NT$3,200)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:Japanese, English, Chinese

sPecial featuRes: Café 83 Fusion Restaurant, City View Lounge, Multi- Functional Meeting Rooms, Gym, Sauna. , Multi- Function Shower, Multi- Function Shower Room with, Mas-sage Function (Suite) , 32”TV/DVD Player, ADSL Modem, Fax Machine Rental

83, Roosevelt Rd. Sec. 4, Da’an District,Taipei City 10673

1 0 6 7 3台北市大安區羅斯福路四段8 3號

Tel: 886.2.8369.2858 E-mail: [email protected]

www.leaderhotel.com.tw

TAIPEI LEADER HOTEL立德台大尊賢會館 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 203Room Rates: Deluxe Room NT$ 7,000 Business Room NT$ 8,000 Executive Deluxe Room NT$ 9,000 Boss Suite NT$ 13,000 Premier Suite NT$ 18,000

GeNeRal maNaGeR: Linda Chu

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Japanese, Mandarin, Taiwanese, Cantonese

RestauRaNts: Rain Forest Café, Garden Terrace, Lounge 81

sPecial featuRes:Business center, Pyramid Club - luxury executive floor, multifunctional room, Internet service, 32-inch LCD TV, garden terrace, bar, fitness club, outdoor pool, sauna, spa, aromatherapy, car park

83 Civic Boulevard, Sec. 3, Taipei City, 1041 0 4台北市市民大道三段8 3號

Tel: 02.8772.8800 Fax: 02.8772.1010E-mail: [email protected]

www.miramargarden.com.tw

MIRAMAR GARDEN TAIPEI美麗信花園酒店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 93 rooms, 28 offices, 4 meeting roomsRoom Rates: Superior Room NT$ 5,600+10% Executive Room NT$ 6,000+10% Junior Room NT$ 6,800+10% Excellency Room NT$ 7,800+10% Premium Suite NT$ 8,800+10%

GeNeRal maNaGeR: Te Yao

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, English

sPecial featuRes: Free wireless acess, VIP lounge, private meeting rooms and secretarial services, private office rental services, high-speed ADSL broadband Internet, non-smoking floors, safety deposit box, laundry service, limousine service, airport transportation, base-ment parking, gym

11F, 495 Guangfu S. Rd., Xinyi District, Taipei City 110

1 1 0台北市信義區光復南路49 5號 1 1樓

Tel: 02.8780.8000 Fax: 02.8780.5000 E-mail: [email protected]

www.businesscenter.com.tw

PACIFIC BUSINESS CENTER太平洋商務中心 Taipei 台北

AdvertisementHOTEL INFORMATION

Travel in Taiwan67

No. of Rooms: 220

Room Rates: Deluxe / Single / Twin & Double NT$ 7,800~8,500 Suite NT$ 9,500~20,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, English, Japanese

RestauRaNts: La Fontaine (Western), Chiou Hwa (Chinese)

sPecial featuRes: Coffee Shop, Fitness Center, Business Center, laundry service, meeting and banquet facilities, non-smoking floor, parking lot, airport transfer service

GLORIA PRINCE HOTEL TAIPEI華泰王子大飯店 Taipei 台北

369 Lin-sen (Linsen) N. Rd., Taipei City, 104 1 0 4台北市林森北路3 6 9號

Tel: 02.2581.8111

Fax: 02.2581.5811, 2568-2924

www.gloriahotel.com

No. of Rooms: 226Room Rates: Superior Single NT$ 3,200 ~ 3,500 Deluxe Single NT$ 4,000 ~ 5,000 Superior Twin NT$ 4,000 Deluxe Triple NT$ 4,500 Deluxe Twin NT$ 4,800 ~ 5,000 Deluxe Suite NT$ 7,000 ~ 10,000 Family Triple Room NT$ 4,300

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, Japanese, English, Cantonese

RestauRaNts: Shanghainese, Cantonese, Taiwanese snacks, Jiangzhe cuisine, Gelato Café, coffee shop

sPecial featuRes: Conference rooms, flower shop, barber shop, souvenir shop, parking area

43, Chunghsiao (Zhongxiao) W. Rd.,Sec. 1, Taipei City, 100

(MRT Taipei Main Station, Exit 3)1 0 0台北市忠孝西路一段4 3號

(台北捷運總站3號出口)

Tel: 02.2361.7856 Fax: 02.2311.8921 Reservation Hotline: 02.2311.8901

Reservation Fax: 02.2311.8902 E-mail: [email protected]

www.cosmos-hotel.com.tw

COSMOS HOTEL天成大飯店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 48Room Rates: Standard Room NT$ 6,000+10% Deluxe Room NT$ 6,500+10% Superior Suite NT$ 7,500+10%Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Chinese, Japanese,

RestauRaNts: Lobby Lounge (Western and Chinese buffet breakfast)

sPecial featuRes: Full-amenity meeting rooms, gym, business center, airport limousine service, laundry service, free mechanized parking lot, tour arrange-ments, currency exchange, close to the MRT system and major commercial and tourist sites.

ROYAL BIZ TAIPEI金來商旅 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 60

Room Rates: Deluxe Room NT$ 12,000 Grand Deluxe Room NT$ 12,500 Premier Room NT$ 13,000 Premier 9 NT$ 15,000 Éclat Suite NT$ 35,000

(All rates are inclusive of 5% VAT and subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:English, Taiwanese, Chinese, Japanese, Cantonese,

RestauRaNts: Ming Yuen, Éclat Lounge, George Bar

sPecial featuRes: Member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World; strategically located in the most fashionable and prestigious district of Taipei; offers guests great convenience for business and entertainment; Wi-Fi connectiv-ity and in-room business facilities; variety of meeting rooms providing the ideal venue for professional meetings, corporate functions, and social gatherings.

370, Sec. 1, Dunhua S. Rd., Da-an District, Taipei City 1061 0 6 台北市敦化南路一段37 0號

Tel: 02.2784.8888 Fax: 02.2784.7888Res. Hotline: 02.2784.8118

www.eclathotels.com

HOTEL ÉCLAT怡亨酒店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 211Room Rates: Superior Single Room NT$ 4,800 Superior Twin Room NT$ 5,400 Superior Triple Room NT$ 6,000 Superior Family Room NT$ 6,600 Deluxe Family Room NT$ 7,800 Deluxe Suite Room NT$ 8,800 Executive Suite Room NT$ 16,800(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Taiwanese, Chinese, Japanese

RestauRaNts: Western buffet-style, Chinese

sPecial featuRes:

Multifunctional banquet and meeting facilities, business center, male and female saunas, rental facilities for cars and bicycles, lounge bar, children’s games room, fitness center, chess room, outdoor swimming pool, green eco-pond, free transport to railway station and airport.

No.2, Yongxing Rd., Hualien City, Hualien County 970609 7 0 6 0花蓮市永興路2號

Tel: 03.823.5388 Fax: 03.822.1185 hualien.chateaudechine.com

CHATEAU DE CHINE HOTEL花蓮翰品酒店 Hualien 花蓮

No.23, Zhongzheng Rd., Sun Moon Lake, Yuchi Township, Nantou County 55546

5 5 5 4 6南投縣魚池鄉日月潭中正路2 3號

Tel: 049.285.6788 Fax: 049.285.6600www.fleurdechinehotel.com

No. of Rooms: 211Room Rates: Mountain View King Room NT$ 13,000~14,000 Mountain View Two Queen Room NT$ 13,000~14,000 Zen Mountain View Room NT$ 13,000~14,000 Lake View King Room NT$ 15,000~16,000 Lake View Two Queen Room NT$ 15,000~16,000 Washiki Lake View Room NT$ 15,000~16,000 Governor Lake View Suite NT$ 20,000~21,000 Royal Lake View Suite NT$ 25,000 Summit Lake View Suite NT$ 120,000 Penthouse Suite NT$ 150,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, English, Japanese RestauRaNt:Chinese food, buffet, teppanyaki, afternoon tea, lobby lounge, rooftop restaurant

sPecial featuRes:Banquet and conference facil-ity, VIP lounge, boutique, wireless internet, e-butler, laundry service, room service, parking, SPA, hot-spring, play ground, swimming pool, gym, HSR transportation service, out circular concourse, trail hiking, etc.

FLEUR DE CHINE HOTEL雲品酒店 Sun Moon Lake 日月潭

No.3, Sec. 1, Chengde Rd., Taipei City 10351

1 0 3 5 1台北市承德路一段三號

Tel: 02.2181.9999 Fax: 02.2181.9988www.palaisdechinehotel.com

No. of Rooms: 286Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 11,000 Deluxe Room NT$ 12,500 Family Twin Room NT$ 14,500 Executive Superior Room NT$ 15,000 Executive Deluxe Room NT$ 16,500 Junior Suite NT$ 18,000 Executive Suite NT$ 21,000 La Rose Suite NT$ 100,000 Charles V Suite NT$ 150,000(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English,Chinese, Japanese RestauRaNts: La Rotisserie, Le Palais, Le Thé, Le BarsPecial featuRes:Gym, business center, ballroom and function rooms, VIP salon, wireless internet, gift shop, room service, E-butler service, airport transportation service, located in an area of the city with heritage sites and tourist attractions.

PALAIS DE CHINE HOTEL君品酒店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 79

Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 7,500 Business Room NT$ 8,500 Deluxe Room NT$ 9,500 Executive Deluxe Room NT$ 9,000 Executive Suite NT$ 10,000 Sense Suite NT$ 15,000Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Chinese, Japanese

RestauRaNts: Sen Salon Restaurant

sPecial featuRes: Business center, fitness center, meeting rooms, Club House with luxury furniture and advanced media facilities for private meetings and gatherings, wood-floored open-air Sky Garden, parking tower, close to the MRT system near Zhongshan Elemen tary school MRT station and key commercial and entertainment districts.

HOTEL SENSE伸適商旅 Taipei 台北

477, Linsen N. Rd., Zhongshan District, Taipei City 104

1 0 4台北市中山區林森北路47 7號

Tel: 02.7743.1000 Fax: 02.7743.1100

www.hotelsense.com.tw

71, Sec. 1, Jinshan S. Rd., Zhongzheng District, Taipei City 100

1 0 0台北市中正區金山南路一段71號

Tel: 02.2397.9399 Fax: 02.2397.1399 Res. Hotline: 02.2396.9321

E-mail:[email protected] [email protected]

www.royalbiz.com.tw

AdvertisementHOTEL INFORMATION

Travel in Taiwan68

No. of Rooms: 153

Room Rates: Superior Room NT$ 3,800 Classic Room NT$ 4,600 Deluxe Room NT$ 6,800 Theme Room NT$ 6,800 Azure Suite NT$ 12,000 Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, English, Japanese

RestauRaNts:Taiwanese/Hakka cuisine, brunch, Western cuisine

sPecial featuRes:Guestrooms with floor-to-ceiling windows, views of Pacific Ocean or Central Mountain Range, multifunctional public space, Azure Club, gym, pet hotel, KTV, board game and computer game room, located in Hualien City center, close to snack food and shopping streets

590 Zhongzheng Rd., Hualien City, 970970 花蓮市中正路590號

Tel: 03.833.6686 Fax: 03.3.832.3569 www.azurehotel.com.tw

AZURE HOTEL花蓮藍天麗池飯店 Hualien 花蓮

No. of Rooms: 79

Room Rates: Standard Room NT$ 4,000 Superior Twin NT$ 4,200 Superior Triple NT$ 4,800 Superior Double Twin NT$ 5,600 Superior Suite NT$ 6,000 Classic Suite NT$ 10,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, English, Japanese

RestauRaNts:Chinese, Western, and Inter-national cuisine, afternoon tea

sPecial featuRes:1/2F public area with unlimited Internet access, broadband Internet access in guestrooms, notebooks available at meeting room, free self-help coffee and tea, free parking, central location (5-min. walk to railway station), pick-up service, projector and screen available at conference room, newspa-pers and magazines, LCD screen TV-sets

139 Guolian 5th Rd., Hualien City, 970970 花蓮市國聯五路139號

Tel: 03.835.9966 Fax: 03.835.9977 Reservation: 03.833.6066

E-mail: [email protected]

www.classichotel.com.tw

HUALIEN CITY CLASSIC RESORT HOTEL花蓮經典假日飯店 Hualien 花蓮

362 Jiuru (Chiu Ju) 2nd Rd., Sanmin District, Kaohsiung City, 80745

8 0 74 5 高雄市三民區九如二路3 6 2號

Tel: 07.311.9906 Fax: 07.311.9591E-mail: [email protected]

www.kingstown-hotel.com.tw

No. of Rooms: 150

Room Rates: Business Single Room NT$ 2,640 Deluxe Single Room NT$ 3,080 Business Twin Room NT$ 3,080 Family Twin Room NT$ 4,400

( Prices above including 10% Service Charge )

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:Chinese, English, Japanese

RestauRaNts:Chinese and Western style food, delicious buffet, cold dishes, fruit, and salad bar

sPecial featuRes:Business center, non-smoking floors, wireless Internet access, 32” LCD TVs, newspaper, free parking, tourist map, currency exchange

KING’S TOWN HOTEL京城大飯店 Kaohsiung 高雄

No. of Rooms: 35

Room Rates: Scenery Suite NT$ 6,600 Honey Suite NT$ 6,600 Fragrant Suite NT$ 8,600 Superior Suite NT$ 9,500 VIP Suite NT$ 12,000(Prices above not including 10% Service Charge)

GeNeRal maNaGeR: Mr. Jen-Shing Chen

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:Chinese, English, Japanese

RestauRaNts: Chinese, Café, Courtyard

sPecial featuRes: Broadband Internet access in guestrooms, business center, Souvenir Shop, Gazebo, 1950’s dance hall, foot massage

ALISHAN HOUSE阿里山賓館 Chiayi 嘉義

16 Sianglin Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County, 605

6 0 5嘉義縣阿里山鄉香林村16號 ALISHAN Tel: 05.267.9811 Fax: 05.267.9596 TAIPEI Tel: 02.2563.5259 Fax: 02.2536.5563

E-mail: [email protected]

www.alishanhouse.com.tw

No. of Rooms: 268Room Rates: Single NT$ 6,000~ 8,800 Twin NT$ 6,800~ 9,600 Suite NT$ 8,000~ 36,800 Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Japanese, Chinese

RestauRaNts: French All Day Dining (French), Chao Ping Ji (Cantonese & Dim-Sum), Sumie Nouvelle Japonaise Cuisine (Japanese), Pozzo Bakery, Zorro Bar

sPecial featuRes:

Two minutes walk from MRT ZhongXiao Dun-hua Station. Business Center, Fitness Center, Conference Room, Banquet Room for 500 people, Free Parking for Room Guests, Free Broadband Internet Access in Guestrooms, In-Room Safe, Express/Dry Cleaning Service, Fine East and West Art Collections on Display

172 ZhongXiao East Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City, 1061 0 6台北市忠孝東路四段17 2號

Tel: 02.2772.2121 Fax: 02.2721.0302 E-mail: [email protected]

www.sanwant.com

SAN WANT HOTEL TAIPEI台北神旺大飯店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 160

Room Rates: Single Room NT$ 4,200 Deluxe Single Room NT$ 4,600 Deluxe Twin Room NT$ 5,000 Suite Room NT$ 6,600

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak:English, Japanese, Chinese

RestauRaNts: Golden Ear Restaurant (Western semi buffet); Golden Pot (Chinese Cuisine)

sPecial featuRes: Business Center, meeting rooms, airport transfer service, parking lot, laundry service, free Internet access, LCD TV, DVD player, personal safety box, mini bar, private bathroom with separate shower & bath tub, hair dryer

TAIPEI GALA HOTEL慶泰大飯店 Taipei 台北

No. of Rooms: 90Room Rates: Business Single Room NT$ 3,900 Deluxe Single Room NT$ 4,100 Deluxe Twin Room NT$ 4,500 Business Suite NT$ 5,600 Deluxe Suite NT$ 6,800 (All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: English, Chinese, Japanese

RestauRaNt: Breakfast Lounge

sPecial featuRes: Located in the center of the city, spacious rooms with wide views, 24H self-service business center, free Internet access, gym, multifunc-tional meeting and banquet rooms, coin laundry, free indoor parking, Tainan Railway Station and shuttle-bus stop for High Speed Rail close by, beside major university campus with century-old trees and jogging opportunity.

2, Daxue Rd., Tainan City 701

台南市大學路2號

Tel: 06.275.8999 Fax: 06.209.3567

www.zendasuites.com.tw

ZENDA SUITES成大會館 Tainan 台南

No. of Rooms: 738Room Rates: Deluxe Room NT$ 7,700 Premier Room NT$ 8,200 Junior Suite NT$ 9,200 Deluxe Suite NT$ 11,500 Executive Suite NT$ 17,500

EXECUTIVE CLUB FLOOR

Deluxe Room NT$ 9,000 Premier Room NT$ 9,500 Deluxe Suite NT$ 15,000 Executive Suite NT$ 21,000

Desk PeRsoNNel sPeak: Chinese, Japanese, English

RestauRaNts: Le Parc Café, Magnolia Court, Canton Palace

sPecial featuRes: 738 large-size guest rooms with high ceilings, incl. 42 suites. Grand lobby entrance with magnificent atrium. Outdoor swimming pool heated during winter. Fully equipped gym, fitness center, sauna, and aerobics room. Fully equipped business center. Hi-speed broadband Internet access. Safety deposit box. Express laundry service. Limousine service, airport pick-up. State-of- the-art audiovisual equipment.

100 Dun Hua North Road, Taipei Taiwan R.O.C.台北市敦化北路10 0號

Tel: 02.2719.7199 Fax: 02.2545.9288 E-mail: [email protected]

SUNWORLD DYNASTY HOTEL TAIPEI王朝大酒店 Taipei 台北

186 Songjiang Rd., Taipei City,1041 0 4台北市松江路18 6號

Exit 1 of MRT Xingtian Temple Station on the Luzhou Line.

Tel: 02.2541.5511 Fax: 02.2531.3831Reservation Hotline: 02.2541.6888

E-mail: [email protected]

www.galahotel.com.tw

I S S N : 1 8 1 7 7 9 6 4

200 NTDG P N : 2 0 0 9 3 0 5 4 7 5

Oyster Shell Island

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Exploring the beach at Dapeng Bay

Shells found at Dapeng Bay

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Walking through the Wild Boar Trench

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Nature trail on Little Liuqiu Islandback

Little Liuqiu has a unique natural environment

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Flower Vase Rock on Little Liuqiu Island

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Sea creatures found on Little Liuqiu Island

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Sea urchin

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Scenic coast of Little Liuqiu

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Little Liuqiu is a great place for eco tours

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