Travel in Taiwan (No.46, 2011 7/8)

HISTORYIn Search of the Old in

Taichung

FOOD JOURNEYAll about Amazing

Bamboo

No. 46, 201178

Paper Making DIYNight Scenery of Taipei & Kaohsiung

Taiwan Food FestivalI Wan Jan Puppet Theater

The Official Bimonthly English Magazine of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau.Website: ht tp://taiwan. net .t w I S B N : 1 8 1 7 7 9 6 4

/

RelIgIouS FeStIvalSCelebrating the Birthdays of Local Deities

THE BEST ROUTES Following the Pacific Coast from Taitung to Hualien

Welcome to Taiwan!Dear Traveler,

High summer is here and subtropical Taiwan’s summer-holidays heat has settled in for a stay,

so in this issue, our focus is “cool Taiwan” and all the cool things you can get up to.

In our Feature section we set out on explorations of the religious world of the Taiwan people,

presenting you with lists and background on what we feel would be the most interesting religious

celebrations for you to experience. In one article we cover festivals that celebrate the birthdays

of gods, in another non-birthday festivals. We also give you suggestions on where you can go for a

meditation retreat, religious items you might buy as keepsakes and gif ts, and where to eat.

Our sojourn into the traditional side of the local lifestyle continues with a visit to an

acclaimed arts troupe, I Wan Jan Puppet Theater, which has a long and illustrious history, and a

visit to a f ine museum dedicated to Taiwan’s most famous puppeteer, the Li Tien-lu Hand Puppet

Historical Museum.

In our Best Routes section we head to the Pacif ic coast to keep catching cooling breezes with a

slow, windows-down driving tour of Highway No. 11 on the east coast, visiting scenic areas where

Mother Nature’s artistic side is on glorious display, an ocean park with cooling water-based fun,

cool and shady cafés, attractive getaway B&Bs, and other attractions.

In Taiwan life, bamboo fulf ills many practical functions, from use as the material in the

table you sit at to use as a food you sit down to eat. A visit to Zhushan (Bamboo Mountain) and

Bamboo Culture Park, in the mountains of central Taiwan, brings you the double-cooling treat of

high-mountain air and shady bamboo groves, along with a refreshing and wide-ranging menu of

educational activities with bamboo the center of attention.

When the sun goes down each day, cooler air drif ts in, and Taiwan’s cities come alive with

twinkling lights. We have two articles for you with suggestions on the best spots to enjoy the

nighttime scenery in the island’s two biggest cities, Taipei and Kaohsiung.

It’s our great pleasure to have you here in Taiwan visiting all the places we ourselves know so

well and care for so deeply. Have a wonderful, fulf illing stay.

Janice Seh-Jen Lai

Director GeneralTourism Bureau, MOTC, R.O.C.

台 灣 觀 光 雙 月 刊

Travel in Taiwan BimonthlyJuly/August Issue, 2011www.tit.com.tw/vision/index.htmCopyright © 2011 Tourism Bureau. All rights reserved. Reproduction in any form without written permission is prohibited.

Publisher Janice Seh-Jen Lai editing Consultants

David W. J. Hsieh, Wayne Hsi-Lin LiuPublishing organization Tourism Bureau, Ministry of Transportation and Communicationsaddress 9F, 290 Zhongxiao E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei, 104, Taiwan Tel: 886-2-2717-3737 Fax: 886-2-2771-7036 E-mail: [email protected] Website: http://taiwan.net.tw

ProduCer Vision Int,l Publ. Co., Ltd.

address Rm. 5, 10F, 2 Fuxing N. Rd., Taipei, 104 Taiwan tel: 886-2-2711-5403 Fax: 886-2-2721-2790

e-mail: [email protected] Manager Wendy L. C. Yen dePuty general Manager Frank K. Yeneditor in Chief Johannes Twellmann english editors Rick Charette, Richard Saunders dir. of Planning & editing Joe LeeManaging editor Sunny Su editors Aska Chi, Aysel Then, Min-Jing Yin, Vivian Liu, Gemma ChengContributors Rick Charette, Stuart Dawson, David Bratt, Mark Caltonhill, Joe Henley, Richard Saunders, Christine HarrisPhotograPhers Sunny Su, Maggie Song, Aska Chi, Bobby Wu art direCtor Sting Chen designers Daemon Lee, Maggie Song, Rinka Lin, Karen PanadMinistrative dePt Hui-chun Tsai, Nai-jen Liu, Xiou Mieng Jiang advertising dePt Vincent Lin, Pamela Leu, Stacy Cai, Mamie Yang, Paul H. Chang advertising hotline + 886-2-2721-5412

CONTENTS July ~ August 2011

50

8

Where you can pick up a copy of Travel in TaiWan abroadOffices of the Tourism Bureau in Tokyo, Osaka, Seoul, Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Frankfurt; Taiwan Representative Offices; Overseas Offices of the Ministry of Economic Affairs; Overseas Offices of the Central News Agency; onboard China Airlines, EVA Air and other selected international airways; selected travel agencies in Asia, North America, and Europe; and other organizations

onlineRead the online version of Travel in Taiwan at www.zinio.com . Log in and search for "Travel in Taiwan". Or visit www.tit.com.tw/vision/index.htm

in TaiWanTourism Bureau Visitor Center; Tourism Bureau; Taiwan Visitors Association; foreign representative offices in Taiwan, Tourism Bureau service counters at Taiwan Taoyuan Int’l Airport and Kaohsiung Int’l Airport, major tourist hotels; Taipei World Trade Center; VIP lounges of international airlines; major tourist spots in Taipei; visitor centers of cities and counties around Taiwan; offices of national scenic area administrations; public libraries

Street Parade at Taipei's Baoan Temple (Photo by Maggie Song)

This magazine is printed on FSC certified paper. Any product with the FSC logo on it comes from a forest that has been responsibly maintained and harvested in a sustainable manner.

Travel in Taiwan 3

LET’S GO OUT TONIGHT! 46 Twinkling Lights — The Best Spots to Enjoy Taipei’s Nighttime Scenery

HISTORY18 Time Travel in Taichung

— A Nostalgia and History Tour

FOOD JOURNEY38 “Without Bamboo, Life is Vulgar” — Learning about an Amazingly Useful Plant at the Center of Taiwan

FESTIVAL24 Fine Food Islandwide — Specialties of Cities and Counties Highlighted During the Taiwan Food Festival

4630

July ~ August 2011 36

feaTure8 Religion — Main Celebrating the Birthdays of Local Deities — eat Eating Vegetarian, Eating Healthy — stay A Retreat at a Buddhist Monastery — buy Religious Souvenir

16 Religion — Five Religious Happenings You Don’t Want to Miss

1 Publisher's Note 4 News & Events around Taiwan 6 Concerts, Exhibitions, and Happenings

23 Upcoming Festivals and Events45 Peculiar Taiwan

ON STAGE/OFF STAGE50 Keeping It in the Family

— I Wan Jan Puppet Theater

LEARNING EXPERIENCE36 Making Paper — Learning about Papermaking at SuHo Memorial Paper Museum

THE BEST ROUTES30 Pacific Ocean All the Way — Following the Scenic East Coast on Highway 11

MY PHOTO TOUR28 Kaohsiung at Night — Modern and Romantic City Scenery

LET’S EAT!43 Eating Like a Panda — Savoring Bamboo in Zhushan

Ferns and Fern Allies of Taiwan The average eco-tourist visiting

Taiwan might first think of head-

ing to the woods in search of birds, butterflies,

and blooms, and he or she will certainly not be

disappointed. Staying a bit longer and looking

a bit deeper into the wonders of this island’s

natural environment, however, will reveal trea-

sures on a much grander scale, among them the

ubiquitous ferns. Ralf Knapp, a German who has

lived in Taiwan for 12

years, has brought the

detail of his exhausting

research together in a

comprehensive reference

book about the more

than 700 species of fern

found in Taiwan, with

all entries accompanied

by professional illustra-

tions. “Ferns and Fern Allies of Taiwan” (Yuan-

Liou Publ. Co.; 1064 pages, NT$3,000) is a must-

read for anyone who wants to gain a deeper

understanding of the world of ferns thriving in

subtropical Taiwan. More info at http://fernsand-

fernalliesoftaiwan.blogspot.com

WHAT'S UP

News & Events

around Taiwan

Flora Expo Venues ReopenThe half-year-long Taipei International Flora Exhi-

bition closed in late April this year, leaving many

visitors asking what will happen to the rich trove

of parks and pavilions. After undergoing extensive remodeling

some of the most popular venues, including the Pavilion of Future

and the Pavilion of Dreams, are scheduled for reopening this

month. The exhibitions at the pavilions will remain the same, and

each visitor will be charged an entry fee of NT$100 at each pavil-

ion. A combo ticket for all pavilions will be available at NT$150. In

addition to the original Flora Expo displays, visitors to the Pavilion

of Future will also have the chance (starting in September) to see

the Taipei Pavilion of the Shanghai World Expo, which was shipped

from mainland China after the end of the World Expo there.

Exhibitions

Books

New Bus Service between Jiufen and Fulong

Good news for self-help travel-

ers planning to visit the old mining towns of

Jiufen and Jinguashi in northern Taiwan and

then move on to the beach resort of Fulong

on the northeast coast! A new bus service now

connects the two areas, making travel much

more convenient. Buses leave Ruifang Railway

Station every hour between 9 am and 4 pm,

making stops at Jiufen, Jinguashi, Bitou Cape,

Longdong, and Fulong. Day tickets are avail-

able at NT$50.

TransportSmart Mobile Phone Guides to LugangForeign visitors can now make use

of a special service provided by the

town of Lugang. At the Southern District Visitor

Center (110, Zhanglu Rd., Sec. 8, Lugang Town-

ship/ 鹿港鎮彰鹿路八段 110 號 ) you can rent

one of 30 mobile phones that give you access to a

wide range of useful information for touring this

old town, including route maps, souvenir shops,

dining options, and much more.

Travel Service

Hollywood Actor Honeymoons in Taiwan American actor, comedian, screenwriter, and director Rob Schneider is known

for the rather unusual roles he has played over the years, including a “man-

whore” in “Deuce Bigalow: Male Gigolo” and a “half-man-half-animal” figure in

“The Animal.” He recently made another rather unusual choice – at least for a Hollywood star

– when picking his honeymoon destination. After marrying beautiful Mexican TV producer

Patricia Azarcoya Arce he spent a week in Taiwan indulging in the local cuisine, visiting the

National Palace Museum and Taipei 101, and going on a shopping spree.

Celebrities

Travel in Taiwan

5

New Landmark Hotel in DanshuiLocated close

to Fisherman’s

Wharf, one

of the most popular tour-

ist sites in Danshui, a port

town north of Taipei City, the

newest hotel of the Fullon

Hotels & Resorts chain (www.

fullon-hotels.com) has 198

rooms and is shaped like an

ocean liner. Its most striking feature is a 108-meter-tall tower that can

accommodate 80 visitors at a time, offering a breathtaking 360-degree

view of the area that includes the Danshui River estuary, the town of

Danshui, as well as a swath of Taipei and many of the mountains of

northern Taiwan in the far distance.

?Do You Know Taiwan?

If you know the answers to the following

questions, you are most likely an experienced

Taiwan traveler. If you don’t know the

answers, you can find them within the pages of this issue

of Travel in Taiwan.

1. Baoan Temple in Taipei is one of Taiwan’s most important and magnificent temples. To which deity is the temple dedicated: the Goddess of Mercy, the God of Medicine, Confucius?

(Find the answer on page 10)

2. Bamboo grows in many parts of Taiwan. Which town is known as the island’s center for bamboo cultivation: Zhushan, Yingge, or Meinong?

(Find the answer on page 39)

3. Xiaoyeliu is a stretch of coast with bizarre rock formations. Where is it: near Taitung in southeastern Taiwan, on the northeast coast, or

on the north coast? (Find the answer on page 32)

Hotels

New Bikeway on the North CoastThe network of dedi-

cated bikeways around

Taiwan has been expand-

ed yet a bit further with the addition

of the Sanzhi-Ximen route close to the

northernmost tip of the island. This

part of the coast is especially popular

during the summer months, with large

numbers of visitors drawn to the white-

sand beaches and scenic rock forma-

tions. For more information about the

area, visit www.northguan-nsa.gov.tw.

Transport

Travel in Taiwan 5

Tell us what you think!We, the producers of Travel in Taiwan, wish to improve our maga-

zine with each issue and give you the best possible help when

planning – or carrying out – your next trip to Taiwan. Tell us what

you think by filling out our short online questionnaire at www.tit.

com.tw/survey/travelintaiwan.html. Senders of the first ten com-

pleted questionnaires for each issue will receive three free issues

of Travel in Taiwan. Thank you very much for your feedback!

When planning to get around on your own in the greater Taipei area,

buying a stored-value EasyCard, available at any MRT station, is

highly recommended. The card is more than just your ticket to the

metro network. It can also be used to take all public buses in Taipei

City and New Taipei City, plus a number of intercity buses; to take

commuter trains between Taipei City, Hsinchu, Keelung, and Ruifang;

to take the Maokong Gondola; to rent bicycles at public bike-rental

kiosks; to take the Blue Highway river cruises; and to make payments

at convenience stores (where you can also add value to the card) and

at other selected stores and restaurants. More info at www.tscc.com.

tw/english/index.asp

Travel Tip

Japanese Explorer Paddles to Orchid IslandYoshiharu Sekino, a Japanese explorer, travel writer,

photographer, and anthropologist who recently

paddled a small boat over open sea tracing the route on which he

believes his ancestors sailed from Indonesia to Japan, made a stop

at Lanyu (Orchid Island), southeast of Taiwan’s main island. Sekino

believes that his forefathers share a blood relationship with the

Yami (Tao), the indigenous tribe living on Lanyu, who are believed

to have taken the same route as the Japanese to cross the sea

between the Philippines and Lanyu.

History

CULTURE SCENE

Concerts, Exhibitions,

and Happenings

Taiwan has a diverse cultural scene, with art venues ranging from international-caliber concert halls and theaters to makeshift stages on temple plazas. Among Taiwan’s museums is the world-famous National Palace Museum as well as many smaller museums dedicated to different art forms and aspects of Taiwanese culture. Here is a brief selection of upcoming happenings. For more information, please visit the websites of the listed venues. National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall

Quest for Immortality, Treasures of Ancient Egypt木乃伊傳奇─埃及古文明特展

A mummified prince, son of the famous Egyptian pharaoh

Ramses II (1303~1213 BC), is the highlight of this exhibition,

on a two-year tour of Asia with Taipei as its first stop.

Visitors can get a close look at a pharaoh’s burial chamber

and hundreds of historical relics from Egypt. The exhibition

features several mummies, some of them unwrapped, including

children and adults, members of the royal family and

commoners. This is a great opportunity to learn more about

ancient culture and the history of mankind.

6/12~

9/23National Palace Museum

Alphonse Mucha – Art Nouveau & Utopia慕夏大展─新藝術‧烏托邦

Czech artist Alphonse Mu-

cha (1860~1939) is known

as the father of Art Nou-

veau and one of the fathers

of modern advertising.

Many of his famous works

feature an iconic image (of-

ten an attractive woman)

and engaging details and

symbolism, creating a strik-

ing visual effect and an accessible message. While this

is commonly used by graphic designers today, it was a

revolutionary approach in Mucha’s time. This exhibi-

tion at the National Palace Museum introduces his early

works as an illustrator in Paris, artworks in the so-

called “le style Mucha,” the artist’s contributions to the

Paris World Exhibition in 1900, creations inspired by

spiritualism, Mucha’s ambitious project “The Slav Epic,”

and his last project, a triptych, “The Age of Reason,”

“The Age of Wisdom,” and “The Age of Love.” For more

info about the exhibition, visit www.muchaart.com.tw.

6/11 ~

9/12

Taipei Fine Arts Museum

National Concert Hall

Chou Chu Wang: I Am a Naughty Boy周珠旺─我是囝仔王

In his black-and-white depictions of

boys, young award-winning local artist Chou Chu Wang

reveals children’s love of mischief and provocation. Devil’s

horns on the top of the boys’ heads are symbolic of the

naughtiness that is often part of growing up. Apart from

paintings, the exhibition also includes three-dimensional

imagery, animation, and installation art, showing the

versatility of the artist.

Summer Jazz─夏日爵士派對Grammy-award winning jazz musicians will be descending on

Taipei during this year’s Summer Jazz series. First up is brilliant

pianist Michel Camilo, who flavors his tunes with Afro-Caribbean

rhythms and jazz harmonies. Next comes Terence Blanchard, one of the most

influential jazz musicians and film-score masters of his generation. Chicago-born

jazz legend Ramsey Lewis, a composer and pianist known as “the great performer,”

follows, and last but not least are the Yellowjackets, an all-star ensemble that is

one of the globe’s most acclaimed and influential jazz groups.

6/25 ~

8/7

8/20 ~

9/9

National Taiwan Museum of Fine ArtsCelebration by Marc Chagall生日快樂─夏卡爾的愛與美

Jewish-Russian artist Marc Chagall (1887~1985) is well-known

for his lively, large-scale renderings of Russian village life,

influenced by Jewish folklore, and his illustrations of folktales

and Bible stories. His works are rich in color, romance, and poetic fantasy. The

exhibition “Celebration by Marc Chagall” features paintings representing Chagall’s

passion for love, family, and his country, with flying birds, loving couples, flower

bouquets, circus performers, and brides among his favored motifs.

6/4 ~

8/14

Body Worlds & The Cycle of Life全新人體奧妙─生命循環特展

More than 26 million people

have seen the bodies prepared by Gunther von

Hagens, a German anatomist who invented

“plastination,” a technique for preserving

biological tissue specimens. Since 1996, when

he first started to display specially prepared

corpses and body parts to the public, his series

of “Body Worlds” exhibitions have been highly

controversial, with religious organizations

objecting to the showing of human remains

and the German media questioning the origin of the bodies. Despite

the controversy, “Body Worlds” has been a huge worldwide success and

is widely regarded as a worthy and justifiable educational exhibition

series, showing the human body in ways never before seen. For more

info, visit www.bodyworlds.com.tw.

Travel in Taiwan 7

VenuesTaipei

Taipei Zhongshan Hall （台北中山堂）

Add: 98, Yanping S. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市延平南路 9 8 號 )

Nearest MRT Station: Ximen

Taipei International Convention Center （台北國際會議中心）

Add: 1, Xinyi Rd., Sec.5, Taipei City( 台北市信義路五段 1 號 )

Tel: (02) 2725-5200, ext. 3517, 3518 www.ticc.com.tw/Nearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall （國立中正紀念堂）

Add: 21 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市中山南路 21 號 )　　

Tel: (02) 2343-1100~3www.cksmh.gov.twNearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Concert Hall （國家音樂聽）National Theater （國家戲劇院）

Add: 21-1 Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市中山南路 21-1 號 )

Tel: (02) 3393-9888www.ntch.edu.twNearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Museum of History （國立歷史博物館）

Add: 49 Nanhai Rd., Taipei City( 台北市南海路 4 9 號 )

Tel: (02) 2361-0270www.nmh.gov.tw Nearest MRT Station: CKS Memorial Hall

National Palace Museum （國立故宮博物院）

Add: 221 Zhishan Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City( 台北市至善路 2 段 2 21 號 )

Tel: (02) 2881-2021www.npm.gov.twNearest MRT Station: Shilin

National Taiwan Museum （國立臺灣博物館）

Add: 2 Xiangyang Rd., Taipei City( 台北市襄陽路二號 )

Tel: (02) 2382-2566www.ntm.gov.twNearest MRT Station: NTU Hospital

Novel Hall （新舞臺）

Add: 3 Songshou Rd., Taipei City( 台北市松壽路 3 號 )

Tel: (02) 2722-4302www.novelhall.org.twNearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

National Dr. Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall （國立國父紀念館）

Add: 505 Ren-ai Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City( 台北市仁愛路四段 5 0 5 號 )

Tel: (02) 2758-8008www.yatsen.gov.tw/englishNearest MRT Station: Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall

Taipei Arena （台北小巨蛋）

Add: 2 Nanjing E. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City( 台北市南京東路 4 段 2 號 )

Tel: (02) 2577-3500www.taipeiarena.com.twNearest MRT Station: Nanjing E. Rd.

Taipei International Convention Center （台北國際會議中心）

Add: 1 Xinyi Rd., Sec. 5, Taipei City( 台北市信義路五段一號 )

Tel: (02) 2725-5200 ext. 3000. 3151~52 www.ticc.com.twNearest MRT Station: Taipei City Hall

Taipei Fine Arts Museum （台北市立美術館）

Add: 181 Zhongshan N. Rd., Sec. 3, Taipei City( 台北市中山北路 3 段 181 號 )

Tel: (02) 2595-7656www.tfam.museum Nearest MRT Station: Yuanshan

Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei （台北當代藝術館）

Add: 39 Chang-an W. Rd., Taipei City( 台北市長安西路 39 號 )

Tel: (02) 2552-3720www.mocataipei.org.twNearest MRT Station: Zhongshan

National Taiwan Science Education Center （台灣科學教育館）

Add: 189 Shishang Rd., Taipei City (台北市士商路 189號 )Tel: (02) 6610-1234www.ntsec.gov.twNearest MRT Station: Shilin

TaichungTaichung Zhongshan Hall （台中中山堂）

Add: 98 Xueshi Rd., Taichung City( 台中市學士路 9 8 號 )

Tel: (04) 2230-3100www.tccgc.gov.tw

National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts （國立台灣美術館）

Add: 2 Wuquan W. Rd., Sec. 1, Taichung City( 台中市五權西路一段 2 號 )

Tel: (04) 2372-3552www.ntmofa.gov.tw/Tainan

TainanTainan City Cultural Center （台南市立文化中心）

Add: 332 Zhonghua E. Rd., Sec. 3, Tainan City( 台南市中華東路 3 段 332 號 )

Tel: (06) 269-2864www.tmcc.gov.tw

KaohsiungKaohsiung City Chungcheng Cultural Center （高雄市立中正文化中心）

Add: 67 Wufu 1st Rd., Kaohsiung City( 高雄市五福一路 67 號 )

Tel: (07) 222-5136 ext. 8908, 8909, 8910www.khcc.gov.tw (Chinese only)Nearest KMRT Station: Cultural Center

Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts （高雄市立美術館）

Add: 80 Meishuguan Rd., Kaohsiung City( 高雄市美術館路 8 0 號 )

Tel: (07) 555-0331www.kmfa.gov.tw Nearest KMRT Station: Aozihdi Station

Kaohsiung Museum of History（高雄市立歷史博物館）

Add: 272 Zhongzheng 4th Rd., Kaohsiung City( 高雄市中正四路 27 2 號 )

Tel: (07) 531-2560http://163.32.121.205/Nearest KMRT Station: City Council

National Museum of History

Masterpieces from Musée National Picasso – Paris世紀大師畢卡索特展

Probably the best-known painter and

sculptor of the 20th century, Pablo Ruiz

Picasso (1881~1973) doesn’t need much of

an introduction. He started, together with

other artists, an avant-garde movement

known as Cubism, which revolutionized

modern art in Europe in the early 20th

century. This exhibition of masterpieces

from the Musée National Picasso in Paris

consists of 62 artworks and a selection of

50 photographic records, presenting an overview of Picasso's life

and career demonstrated through selective masterpieces of his oil

paintings, photographs, sculptures, and prints.

9/18

National Taiwan Science Education Center4/23

~ 9/25

FEATURE

Travel in Taiwan 8

FEATURE

Travel in Taiwan 8

Celebrating the Birthdays of Local DeitiesLarge crowds, lots of noise and smoke from firecrackers, street parades with funny looking characters moving in strange ways, icons of deities carried around in elaborate sedan chairs – the birthdays of local gods are celebrated in great fashion at Taiwan’s temples.

Thrilling Visual Tapestries at Temple Birthday Events

By Rick Charette

RELIGION

Travel in Taiwan 9

RELIGION

Pho

to /

Wen

-Jen

Fan

Drum performance during the birthday celebrations for Baosheng Dadi at Taipei’s Baoan Temple

Travel in Taiwan 9

FEATURE

Travel in Taiwan 10

The Mazu palanquin is carried over believers during the Mazu Pilgrimage

Pho

tos

/ Bob

by W

u, V

isio

n In

t'l

In your f irst days on Taiwan your impression will most l ikely be that the local society is vibrantly,

aggressively modern – streets f illed with shiny new cars, gleaming buildings towering over you, fashion-savvy pedestrians wielding mobile phones, and swank department stores, boutiques, and cafés everywhere.

However, stay a l ittle longer, venture down neighborhood streets and alleys, and you’ ll see that deep-rooted traditions continue to f lower, it being nothing out of the normal for a woman in a smart business ensemble to leave work for the day and stop off at a temple to pray for blessings from a god she knows to be particularly powerful and responsive.

This f lowering of tradition manifests itself in countless ways beyond this. Here we aid in your trip planning by concentrating on visual spectacle – the most riveting birthday celebrations staged at temples for some of the most powerful, venerated, and beloved Chinese deities.

The birthday of the Divine Progenitor falls on the f irst lunar month’s sixth day. “Divine Progenitor” is the most common translation for Qingshui Zushi, but Ancestral Master of Qingshui is more accurate. One story is that he was a Song Dynasty monk the gods favored with a miracle – rice issuing from Qingshui Yan, “Pure Water Crag,” which he gave to honest working folk.

This happened in Fujian, where the ancestors of most of Taiwan’s people came from. The result is numerous Qingshui Zushi temples here, and birthday celebrations are raucous affairs, perhaps most thrill ing in Sanxia, near Taipei.

Worshippers f lood the temple bearing offerings and lighting incense. In the forecourt, amid thick smoke and f irecracker blasts, appear giant human puppets – gods and minions – and elaborate decorated f loats. Dangki, trance mediums, perform actions that transf ix. The biggest

draw, however, is the annual competition to present the heaviest sacrif icial pig, prepared and offered to the god as tribute, blown to breathtaking proportions with air compressors. Af ter the ceremony a huge feast is held, all

visitors welcome.The birthday of Baosheng Dadi (15th day, 3rd lunar

month) is celebrated with the greatest pomp and creativity at Taipei’s Dalongdong Baoan Temple along with the Baosheng Cultural Festival. The temple is one of Taiwan’s most important and magnif icent, awarded a UNESCO Asia-Pacif ic Heritage Award for Cultural Preservation in 2003. “Baosheng Dadi” is commonly translated as God of Medicine, but Great Emperor Who Preserves Life is more accurate.

This festival spans two months, with myriad activities. The most colorful are a f ireworks show, a massive day-long neighborhood parade with gods arriving in sedan chairs to

Amid thick smoke and f irecracker blasts appear giant human puppets and elaborate decorated f loats

Crowded temple in Taichung during Mazu’s birthday celebration

RELIGION

Travel in Taiwan 11

The Mazu palanquin is carried over believers during the Mazu Pilgrimage

visit the birthday god, l ion dancing, traditional music/opera shows, martial-arts battle-array formations, stilt-walker shows, outsized f igures bedecked in auspicious bread rolls which believers madly scramble to grab, and ritual f ire-walking – the last perhaps most anticipated. You’ ll notice these things happen before the central portal, so the main god can watch; this is true at all temple festivals, for entertainment is put on for the god’s enjoyment, only indirectly for ours.

Mazu, the Maternal Ancestor, is Goddess of the Sea. Like the other gods discussed here, she’s based on an historical f igure around which legend has grown (from the Song Dynasty). The formal titles we’ve seen here, such as Maternal Ancestor and Divine Progenitor, were granted by emperors, promoting gods just as they promoted off icials.

Taiwan, an island nation, venerates Mazu like no other deity (except for the Earth God), worshiping her at the most temples. The period around the birthday of Mazu (23rd day, 3rd month) sees large-scale celebrations in many locations – most famous the Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage. Dajia’s Zhenlan Temple is Taiwan’s most famous Mazu shrine; the Dajia goddess celebrates with a pre-birthday visit to “sister” Mazu temples in central/southern Taiwan, traveling over 300 km on an eight-day round-trip journey joined by

throngs of otherworldly minions/protectors, marching bands, l ion dancers, and devotees. Over one mill ion line the route seeking her blessing, touching her palanquin and – the most powerful blessing – laying under it as she passes. Her movements are even GPS-tracked on the off icial website of the two-month-long, attraction-rich Taichung County Mazu International Festival (mazu. taichung.gov.tw). A thunderous temple-fair party sends her off, and another welcomes her back.

“City God” is a title, not an individual; each urban locality has a City God temple, and each City God is a separate f igure, l ike an old-time imperial off icial responsible for that area. Many are respected local historical f igures, now deif ied. Thus,

different temples have different birthday dates. (All this is also true of the Earth God, who handles rural areas.) The birthday of the City God (many Earth Gods are throughly urbanized) at Xiahai City God Temple is on the 5th month’s 13th day. The area bursts with activity around this time with a two-week-plus festival marathon of rites, performances, and activities.

The temple is small, so the gilded image is placed before the main portal to greet well-wishers. There are many opera performances for him, f lag-performing arrays, martial-arts battle arrays, l ion dances, traditional beiguan music,

Temple parade performers are a common sight during temple festivals

Over one million line the pilgrimage route seeking Mazu’s blessing, touching her palanquin, and laying under it as she passes

MORE

FEATURE

Travel in Taiwan 12

Those who love a book in hand should get Mark Caltonhill’s Private Prayers and Public Parades, sold at the Taipei City Hall lobby bookstore/souvenir shop and at major local bookstore-chain outlets.

Temple-Visit Don’ts1/ Don’t enter the temple by the central portal; use the smaller doors on either side. This central portal is reserved for the use of the temple’s gods. In any event, this portal is generally closed or blocked.2/ Most temple doorways have a threshold, some as high as one foot. Step over them, not on. They block ghosts, who cannot lif t their feet.3/ All statues are sacred, so do not touch.4/ Though a Chinese temple has far more bustle than a church, mosque, or synagogue, the same rules of solemnity apply: Dress modestly, don’t speak loudly, don’t call attention to yourself.

are three days of lavish parades, with

people l ining streets in the thousands,

and homes/businesses setting out

sacrif icial offerings. The f irst two days

have night patrols, an unusual thing.

Firecrackers blast constantly. On their

return deities guohuo or “jump the f ire”

before the temple, which dispels lurking

evil. Believers do the same, bringing

peace. During all parades “illumination

cakes,” which keep a person safe, are

handed out, which keep a person safe.

All neighbo rhood temples join in the

celebrations, adding to the festive

revelry.

Finding More InfoAppet i te whet f or more b i r t hday-

f es t i v a l adventu re? I f look ing f or

more informat ion, perhaps your best

star t ing point is the Ta iwan Tour ism

Bureau website (eng.taiwan.net.tw). Click

“Festivals” on the webpage’s lef t side.

drum teams, street-parade processions of deities coming to visit, and raucous all-night community-inspection parades by the City God himself just before his birthday. Thousands press in to touch his palanquin, seeking his blessing. The festival ends with a theatrical performance extolling his accomplishments over the past year. This is one of Taipei’s biggest, l iveliest – and loudest – celebrations.

The birthday of the King of Qingshan is on the 10th month’s 22nd day. This deity is based on a wise and honorable general who lived in China’s Fujian area during the Three Kingdoms period. Today he dispenses justice and dispels pestilence. Birthday celebrations at Qingshan Temple are the biggest event of the year in Taipei’s Wanhua District, the city ’s oldest, when it seems the whole community comes out.

The event lasts four days. There

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Baosheng Cultural Festival 保生文化祭

Baosheng Dadi 保生大帝

beiguan 北管

City God 城隍爺

Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage 大甲媽祖

遶境進香

Dalongdong Baoan Temple 大龍峒保安宮

dangki 童乩

guohuo 過火

King of Qingshan 青山王

Mazu 媽祖

Qingshan Temple 青山宮

Qingshui Yan 清水巗

Qingshui Zushi (Temple) 清水祖師(廟)Sanxia 三峽

Taichung City Mazu 臺中市大甲媽祖 International Festival 國際觀光文化節

Taipei Xiahai City God 台北霞海城隍 Temple Cultural Festival 文化季

Xiahai City God Temple 台北霞海城隍廟 Zhenlan Temple 鎮瀾宮

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EAT

Travel in Taiwan 13

In Taiwan many restaurants serve people who do not want to eat

meat, either for religious or for health reasons (their own physical health and the health of Mother Earth). And the simplest way to classif y such restaurants follows this natural division – vegetarian (religious) and health.

We’ ll use a popular chain called Easy House Vegetarian Cuisine to explain. Despite the “vegetarian” usage, Easy House classif ies itself as a health restaurant. Vegetarian restaurants are of ten places of simple décor, religious chanting plays in the background, many are buffets and you pay by weight, oils are used in the cooking, and for religious reasons such strongly f lavored items as garlic, leek, and onion (said to excite the passions) are avoided.

Health restaurants such as Easy House of ten have sophisticated décor, upscale, personalized service, and

set-menu offerings, and Easy House plays soothing modern mood music. A cosmopolitan clientele seeking a healthier l ifestyle and wanting to dress up and go out for a tasty meal is targeted. The Easy House menu ranges the world, moving from dishes

based on Italian angel hair pasta and truff les to milk and banana (the last in a delicious four-item health drink), each entrée showing creative “Chinese characteristics.” Water is used to cook, not oils, and unlike pure-vegetarian eateries, garlic and, as we’ve seen, milk are used – clearly indicated on the menu. The clientele at Easy House is 70% health-conscious, 10% pure vegetarian, and 70% female.

Many health restaurants are organic, but Easy House

is not, awaiting greater consolidation of local organic standards and instead stressing freshness and quality and working closely with suppliers.

There are 19 entrees offered, and af ter considerable taste-testing (there’s an outlet near my home) I especially recommend the Taiwanese Five-Color Chestnut Fry, the various chestnuts sof t, spongy, or meaty-chewy and the sauce orange-f lavored, and the Milky Vegetable Hot Pot, the milk-broth not heavy, Brazil ian mushrooms highlighted.

Easy House classi f ies itsel f as a health restaurant with

a cosmopolitan clientele seeking a healthier li fest yle

EAsY HOUsE VEGETARiAN CUisiNE (寬心園)

Add : 51, Alley 4, Lane 345, Ren ’ai Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City (台北市仁愛路四段345巷4弄51號)Tel : (02) 2721-8326Website : www.easyhouse.com.tw (Chinese)

Typical healthful dishes served at Easy House

Eating Vegetarian, Eating HealthyA Difference? As Local Restaurants Go, IndeedBy Rick Charette

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Many of Taiwan’s Buddhists are vegetarians

Travel in Taiwan 14

STAY

Expatriate residents on the island will at times hear their local friends and acquaintances speaking of time taken off work for religious pilgrimages and retreats, today still common features of Taiwan life. If you’re looking for a deeper glimpse into local religious l ife than what a few hours at a temple watching devotees at prayer or watching festival rites and activities can bring, why not do as the locals do and head off for a peaceful, soul-fulf ill ing, and uniquely insightful stay at a Buddhist monastery? Time at Fo Guang Shan is strongly recommended, a prime reason being its abil ity to accommodate English-

speaking visitors.Fo Guang Shan, or “Light of

Buddha Mountain,” is Taiwan’s largest Buddhist monastery and the main site of one of its highest-prof ile religious organizations, which has a worldwide presence. The complex, in the east of Kaohsiung City in the hills

overlooking the plains, is renowned for such stunning sights as a 36-meter-tall Amitabha statue surrounded by

480 smaller statues and a hall with almost 15,000 wall-mounted Buddha f igurines.

The monastery runs a selection of meditation retreats for lay persons – one-day, weekend, and f ive-day programs. Graduates of these may then sign up for the 49-day retreat.

There are other specialized offerings as well, such as chanting and call igraphy retreats. The meditation retreats feature daily chanting and call igraphy as well. The monastery will also customize a visit.

There is straightforward vegetarian fare and 5:30 am wakeups, and your room, though small, has both a TV and air-conditioning. Note that this is a popular tourist destination and there are English tours; so call a few days in advance to be sure of guide availabil ity and special activities. Tours are two hours and free, with donations appreciated.

Why not head off for a peaceful, soul- fulf illing,

and uniquely insightful stay at a Buddhist monastery?

FO GUANG sHAN MONAsTERY (佛光山)

Add : 153, Xingtian Rd., Xingtian Village, Dashu District, Kaohsiung City (高雄市大樹區興田村興田路153號)Tel : (07) 656-1921, ext. 6205Website : www.fgs.org.tw

Golden Buddha statues at Fo Guang Shan; dormitory building (lef t)A Retreat at

a Buddhist MonasteryLight of Buddha MountainBy Rick Charette

Travel in Taiwan 14

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Travel in Taiwan 15

Exposure to Taiwan’s vibrant

religious l ife will present you with many colorful images to carry around in your album of memories, but why not go a step further and buy your own version of one of the religious implements you have seen? Perhaps the single best place to browse shops stocking the items used in temple and home worship is Xiyuan Road, Sec. 1, along the west side of Taipei’s Longshan Temple.

Commonly called “Buddhist Implement Street” in Chinese, there’s a cluster of 20 shops, most in the business for generations, many long run by the same family – the oldest shop, Longshan Buddhist Implement Shop, opened in 1895 at No. 142/144.

The fun is in the browsing, so don’t fret that you’re not always sure what you’re looking at. My father-in-law built our neighborhood temple and helps manage it, and my mother-in-law does most related buying for our extended clan, so I’ve tagged along on quite a few buying trips here but still f ind these shops places of great mystery and discovery, overf lowing with treasure. In general, each emphasizes Buddhist or Daoist paraphernalia and items for

either home or temple. Your task is simple: choose whatever will be the most aesthetically pleasing artwork addition for your home.

Items run from small to very large, simple to intricate, a few hundred NT dollars to tens of thousands. Among the works that now grace my home and those of family and friends: a beautiful embroidered altar cloth with mythical Chinese characters that my Mom shows all her new, unsuspecting guests (NT$3,000; start around NT$500); well-craf ted wooden prayer beads in the shape of Buddha heads (NT$1,200; start at a few hundred); wooden divination blocks (NT$400); a protective fengshui mirror with sword and lion design, the mirror frightening away ghosts wanting to visit your home (NT$500; start at about NT$200); numerous small wooden statues of Guanyin and Milefo, the Laughing Buddha – rub his belly and good fortune will come (each NT$1,000~2,000; start at NT$500).

Buddhist implement shops are places of great myster y and discover y, overflowing with treasure

Protective fengshui mirror

Prayer beads

Religious SouvenirsUnusual Mementoes of Very Unusual Experiences

By Rick Charette

Laughing Buddha sculpture

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{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Buddhist Implement Street 佛具街

Guanyin 觀音

Longshan Buddhist 龍山佛具店 Implement ShopLongshan Temple 龍山寺

Milefo 彌勒佛

Xiyuan Road 西園路

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Travel in Taiwan 16

Five Religious Happenings You Don’t Want to Miss

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On page 8 we explored the world of birthday celebrations for local deities. In this article this writer presents to you non-birthday religious events so bursting with color and unique character that – as I did for each – you’ll feel when witnessing the action that you’ll surely never see anything like this again, anywhere else. And you’ll be right. By Rick Charette

Grappling with the Ghosts at Toucheng

Sacrif ice to the Short Spirits

Keelung Ghost Festival

Donggang Burning of the King Boat

FEATURE

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RELIGION

Travel in Taiwan 17

Hilly Hsinchu County has a heavy concentration of Hakka people, who are culturally distinct from their fellow Han Chinese. This festival happens each August, centered around famous Fangliao Baozhong Yimin Temple. “Yimin” means “righteous people” – militia who gave their l ives defending Hakka territory in imperial days, now revered as gods. There are riveting sacrif icial offerings, Hakka opera, Hakka food bazaars, martial-arts displays, and perhaps the most bizarre spectacle, the sacrif icial “divine pigs” display. The pigs are fattened to monstrous size and then, l iterally, f lattened for display; the biggest bring owners a year ’s luck.

These are my Top Five. Your own Top Five list awaits creation, so read on and, when done,

head out that door.

Each year during the 7th lunar month, Ghost Month, the Gates of Hell are opened and all hell breaks loose, spirits of the deceased going on vacation, wandering our mortal realm. Those without family to make sacrif ices to them may cause trouble, and thus individual and collective rites are performed to appease them. The main date of the Keelung festival is the evening of the 14th, with the national broadcast of a ceremonial gate-opening at a Laodagong Temple tower housing funeral urns, followed by a splendid raucous parade through the streets (esp. the harbor area). Floats bear family names, organized around f ishing clans, reference to imperial-day f ighting among Han Chinese and reconciliation af terwards. The f loats wend their way to Badouzi harbor, where the elaborate f loat-top lanterns are taken down, set af lame, and guided out to sea; the blazes guide water ghosts ashore. The full 7th month is f illed with much other spectacle – evil-dispell ing f ireworks, traditional-arts performances, kids’ shows, acrobatics, and much else besides.

Keelung Ghost Festival

During Ghost Month, another amazing sight can be witnessed in Yilan County’s Toucheng Township. Called “grappling with the ghosts,” this is the county’s most popular Ghost Month event, and attracts many tourists from outlying areas. In the main event, attended by thousands, teams of young daredevils who seemingly believe they are immortal try to climb greased 12-meter-tall poles and then even taller “f lag towers” made of latticed bamboo to seize pinnacle prizes. Winners gain great prestige and also guaranteed good fortune.

Grappling with the Ghosts at Toucheng

The ornate Donglong (Eastern Dragon) Temple, by the sea in the southwest f ishing port of Donggang, is site for the town’s week-long Burning of the King Boat festival, largest and most elaborate of its kind in Taiwan. The kings or plague gods, called Wangye, have been worshipped for centuries as protectors against pestilence and disease.

This festival, f illed with the parading of Wangye images and elaborate large-scale temple activities, happens every three years in the ninth lunar month, October/November, and elsewhere at other times. A nearly full-size mock-up of a junk is constructed and placed atop a mountain of spirit money. Plague gods are put aboard, and the vessel is heaped high with sacrif icial offerings ranging from foods to replica TVs and replica fancy cars. Af ter elaborate Daoist ceremonies on the last day, in the middle of the night, the boat is set alight and ceremonially sent to sea to carry pestilence away

(burnings are now conducted onshore to prevent misery f loating ashore in other communities). Onlookers pray for peace.

Donggang Burning of the King Boat

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Badouzi 八斗子

Donggang 東港

Donggang Burning of the King Boat 東港王船祭

Donglong Temple 東隆宮 Fangliao Baozhong Yimin Temple 枋寮褒忠義民廟

Ghost Month 鬼月

Grappling with the 頭城搶孤

Ghosts at TouchengHsinchu County Yimin 新竹縣義民文化祭

Cultural FestivalKeelung Ghost Festival 雞籠中元祭

Laodagong Temple 老大公廟

Nanzhuang Township 南庄鄉

Saisiyat 賽夏族

Sacrifice to the Short Spirits 矮靈祭

Toucheng Township 頭城鎮

Wangye 王爺

Xiangtian Lake 向天湖

The Saisiyat, among Taiwan’s smallest indigenous tribes, stage this event every two years (on the 15th day of the 10th lunar month; Oct/Nov), with an especially elaborate version every 10 years, the last of these in 2006. Called “pas-ta’ai”, the ceremonies appease the souls of a dark-skin pygmy tribe said to have taught the Saisiyat to farm, sing, and dance long ago. Relations became strained, the “short people” becoming demanding and bullying, and af ter massacring them the Saisiyat became fearful of vengeful spirits returning.

The main rituals span four days and three nights, the most elaborate at Xiangtian (Facing Heaven) Lake in Miaoli County’s Nanzhuang Township. The spirits are ceremonially invited, then entertained with feasting and visually/aurally colorful dance circles, with dancers wearing chimes and bells. Visitors are invited to form their own circles. Shamans conduct prayers and exorcisms. On the last day at sun-up come repentance rituals, then young braves leap at a ceremonial tree, throw snatched pieces to the east to bid the spirits farewell, and offer a thundering ritual dance.

Sacrifice to the Short Spirits

Hsinchu County Yimin Cultural Festival

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HISTORY

Travel in Taiwan 18

Whether you’re into old architecture, antiques, period fashion, classic art, or the golden age of the film industry, Taichung has plenty of places to stoke the history buff’s passion for the past. Here are a few highlights awaiting personal exploration in this fascinating and history-rich central Taiwan city. By Joe Henley

Time Travel in Taichung

Travel in Taiwan 18

Luce Chapel, one of Taichung’s most famous landmarks

A Nostalgia and History Tour

HISTORY

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Inside Luce ChapelLuce Chapel Long a focal point of the bucolic

Tunghai University campus, the Luce

Chapel, completed in 1963, stands in

the middle of a sprawling park on the

university grounds, its tapered walls

covered by glazed diamond-shaped tiles

that gleam during the daylight hours.

Designed by renowned architect I. M.

Pei, whose notable buildings include

the Louvre Pyramid in Paris and Hong

Kong’s Bank of China Tower, the church

sits on an irregular hexagonal base,

and the structure itself rises into a

triangular, tent-like form. The interior

walls feature thick, diamond-shaped

coffers that diminish in size toward the

ceiling.

Floor-to-ceiling windows at the

entrance and behind the altar ensure

a steady f low of natural l ight. The

chapel is regularly f illed with the

faithful for the Sunday morning

service – with seating for 500 – and

their hymns ring out across the park.

The sturdy design is both beautiful

and practical, with concrete ribs that

thicken as they descend along the

church’s curved surfaces, providing

reinforcement against earthquake

damage. The church was named in

honor of Reverend Henry W. Luce,

an American missionary who went

to China in the late 19th century

to spread the gospel and wound up

staying for over four decades – the father

of famed publisher Henry R. Luce.

Tunghai Art Street Not far from Tunghai University is

Tunghai Art Street which, despite the

singular name, is actually a collection

of streets and narrow alleys f illed

with art galleries, craft shops, clothing

stores, antique distributors, pet shops,

and bookstores. There is also a number

of secondhand bookshops, where you

might stumble upon untold numbers of

literary treasures.

Though Tunghai Art Street only

dates back to the 1980s, it nevertheless

has a strong connection to yesteryear.

For those looking for a literal taste of

historic Taiwan, there are shops selling

old-style Taiwanese candies and other

confections that are displayed alongside

traditional Taiwanese hand puppets and

pop-culture items from decades past.

In several antique shops, pictures of

old-time pop idols and movie starlets

sit alongside corporate collectibles,

Buddha f igures, old clay pillows,

religious sculptures, jade f igurines, and

pendulum clocks.

Other stores specialize in antique

furniture, selling handmade wooden

chairs, 60-year-old cabinets from Tainan

made from the wood of the pomelo tree,

50-year-old Japanese-style bookcases,

and 40-year-old radios still in working

order, along with ceramics, f latware,

HISTORY

Travel in Taiwan 20

1. Laughtea Teahouse 2. Art installation at Stock 203. Exhibit at Fun Sound Station 4. Fun Sound Station, in a heritage building5. Old bicycle at Tunghai Art Street 6. Art object at Stock 20

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ice-cream scoops, and most any other household item you can name.

Fun Sound Station Built in 1935, the building of

the Fun Sound Station was once home to the third radio station in Taiwan. Building and bureau were built and run by the colonial Japanese government, then taken over by the Kuomintang administration in 1949. Today the building houses a broadcasting museum, an exhibition space, and an interior-design business called Macro Maison, which oversees the whole operation.

The exhibition space features a rotating array of handicrafts, fashions, and lifestyle items made by local businesses and craftspeople. During a recent exhibition, handbags made by grandmothers from Nantou County, who lost their jobs on betel-nut farms when the area was devastated by the 9/21 earthquake of 1999, were on display alongside handmade jewelry and aromatherapy products. In an adjacent wing is a modest exhibit from the radio industry’s heyday, with items such as phonographs, tube amps, reel-to-reel machines, and cassette players – i.e., the broadcasting museum.

The rear of the Fun Sound Station is where Macro Maison peddles its wares, including furniture, building materials, fabrics, teak lighting f ixtures, and ash bookshelves, tables, and desks. All

products are made in Taiwan, and the company’s unique sense of style has won it a host of large local clients, including Starbucks, Mr. Donut, and Cold Stone Creamery. Guided tours are available in Chinese, and though the guides are modest about their English abilities, this writer received a full tour of the facilities in competent English.

Laughtea Teahouse More evidence of Taiwan’s colonial

past can be found at Laughtea Teahouse, a teahouse in a Japanese-style residence that was actually the childhood home of its owner, Dr. Wu Hao-chi. The home was built in 1924, and still looks much as it did back then, with partitioned rooms separated by elegant sliding doors made of wood and rice paper, a Zen garden, and lush vegetation outside the windows, making the complex seem like an ancient green sanctuary hidden away from its urban surroundings. Guests can sit around antique tables surrounded by furnishings from mainland China, some of which, such as the shelves, are over a hundred years old, or can choose to be served in the

TAICHUNG

traditional Japanese way as they sit on tatami mats on the f loor. Whichever you choose, you are embraced by the hospitable, warm atmosphere.

Houses such as this are a rarity these days in Taiwan, making them all the more valuable. From the 1960s through the 1980s Taiwan’s economy grew quickly, and many Taiwanese favored knocking down older homes in favor of more modern constructions. But Dr. Wu, who worked with the Department of Health, wanted to keep the history of his city and country alive, and in keeping with his deep love of tea culture, converted his home into a teahouse in 1988. In addition to serving various kinds of tea and set meals, Laughtea Teahouse also hosts musical and traditional Taiwanese hand-puppet performances.

Stock 20 Once the warehouses where

goods to be shipped out of Taichung Railway Station were stored, located just a stone’s throw away from the

Guests can sit around antique tables surrounded by furnishings from mainland China, some of which, such as the shelves, are

over a hundred years old

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Travel in Taiwan 22

Banana New Paradiserailroad tracks, Stock 20 is now a converted space where Taichung’s artistic community thrives. Several of the warehouses, which were built back in 1917 and are still in their original state, now provide space for artists in residence to work on dance performances, installation-art pieces, paintings, or works in whatever other medium they decide on, and one has been set aside exclusively for student artists. Another of the warehouses has been converted into a performance space for bands, theater troupes, or other performing artists.

Exhibitions by invited artists are staged in the main building at the far end of the complex, featuring sculptures, paintings, and other artworks. Meanwhile, an old railway car adjacent to the main entrance has been set aside for the various workshops that are staged periodically at Stock 20. In the middle of it all sits the Glass House, built on the former site of a warehouse that was destroyed during the 9/21 earthquake. Guests who climb to the top of the Glass House are rewarded with a panoramic view of the train station and the surrounding area, providing one with a basic idea of how a sprawling metropolis grew around this district.

Banana New Paradise Perhaps the best way to end a day

in historic Taichung is to enjoy a meal surrounded by countless items from Taiwan’s past. Banana New Paradise is a restaurant set up to resemble an

old Taichung neighborhood and buildings that once surrounded the Taichung Railway Station in the early-to-mid 20th century. Tables sit beside replicas of an old camera shop, a general store, a dentist’s off ice, a barber shop, and a department store, and are surrounded by old vehicles such as taxis, motorcycles, and even a few creaking bicycles. The walls are completely covered in memorabilia, with old pictures salvaged from family homes and donated by local families. Some patrons have even been surprised to see old family photos from their childhood when perusing the walls on a visit to the establishment.

The centerpiece of the restaurant is a replica of an old movie theater, complete with props from f ilms that were shot in Taichung, once regarded as the “Hollywood of Taiwan,” and a gargantuan and long-retired movie projector. Original and reprinted movie posters line the walls upstairs, where private rooms can be booked for family/group meals. The cuisine is a mix of traditional Taiwanese and Chinese dishes along with some modern creations, and it’s well worth looking around while waiting for your meal to arrive to get a feel for what it was like to live in Taichung in years gone by.

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Glass House 玻璃屋Luce Chapel 路思義教堂

Nantou County 南投縣

Tunghai Art Street 東海國際藝術街

Wu Hao-chin 吳浩欽

BANANA NEW PARADisE (香蕉新樂園茶飯館)

ADD: 111, Shuangshi Rd., Sec. 2, Taichung City (台中市雙十路二段111號)TEL: (04) 2234-5402WEBsiTE: www.vernaldew.com

LUCE CHAPEL (路思義教堂)

ADD: 181, Taichungggang Rd., Sec. 3 (台中港路3段181號) （Take buses 75, 83, and 146 from Taichung Railway Station）TEL: (04) 2359-0121

sTOCK 20 (20號倉庫)

ADD: 6-1, Lane 37, Fuxing Rd., Sec. 4, Taichung City (台中市復興路四段37巷6-1號)TEL: (04) 2220-9972WEBsiTE: www.stock20.com.tw

LAUGHTEA TEAHOUsE (悲歡歲月人文茶館)

ADD: 29, Daquan St., Taichung City (台中市大全街29號)TEL: (04) 2371-1984

TUNGHAi ART sTREET (東海國際藝術街)

LOCATiON: Area around Yishu St. and Guoji St. in Longjing District (Take buses 75, 83, and 146 from Taichung Station)TEL: (04) 2635-2411 (Longjing District Office)

FUN sOUND sTATiON (台中放送局)

ADD: 1, Diantai St., North District, Taichung City (台中市北區電台街1號)TEL: (04) 2225-0515

Travel in Taiwan 23

UPCOMINGFestivals and Events from July to September 2011

JUN 29 ~ AUG 31

Taiwan International Hot Air Balloon Festival 台灣熱氣球嘉年華

Flying hot-air balloons is something of a novelty in Taiwan, and this year marks the first time this international festival is being staged. A number of teams from abroad and Taiwan will show off their colorful balloons, taking to the skies high above Taitung County.Location: Gaotai, Luye Township, Taitung County (台東縣鹿野鄉高台 )Tel: (089) 346-119 Website: tour.taitung.gov.tw

MAY 7 ~ JUL 31

Yangmingshan Butterfly Festival陽明山蝴蝶季

Yangmingshan National Park, on the north side of Taipei City, is home to more than 170 species of butterfly, making it a great destination for nature lovers. During this festival you’ll have the chance to go on guided tours and learn all about these beautiful insects.Location: Yangmingshan National Park (陽明山國家公園 ) Tel: (02) 2861-3601 ext. 802 Website: www.ymsnp.gov.tw

For more information on upcoming festivals and events visit the website of the Tourism Bureau at http://eng.taiwan.net.tw and click on “Festivals” or call the 24-hour toll-free Travel Information Hotline at 0800-011765.

JUL 9 ~ AUG 21International Children's Folklore & Folkgame Festival, Yilan 宜蘭國際童玩藝術節

Families are drawn to this festival in the search for summer fun. There’s a large playground area offering kids all sorts of water-based games and cultural activities where the focus is both on having fun and on learning a thing or two about traditional games and folklore.Location: Dongshan River Water Park, Yilan County (宜蘭縣冬山河親水公園 )Tel: (03) 932-2440 ext. 372-3Website: www.folkgame.org.tw

JUL 2 ~ AUG 28Taipei Aqua Friendly Festival 台北親水節

A great way to cool off during the hot summer is a splash in the Taipei Water Park, venue of the annual Taipei Aqua Friendly Festival. Besides having fun in the pools and on the waterslides, you can also visit the adjacent Museum of Drinking Water.Location: (Taipei Water Park) 1, Siyuan St., Taipei City (台北自來水園區 -台北市思源街 1號 )Tel: (02) 8369-5104 Website: www.twd.gov.tw

JUL 10 ~ AUG 7 Nantou Railway Festival 南投火車好多節

The Jiji Branch Line in central Taiwan’s Nantou County is at the center of this annual festival, with railway stations all along the line serving as venues. Seeing restored and still-running old steam locomotives built in the 1930s is one of the many highlights of the festival.Location: Plaza in front of Zhuoshui Railway Station, Mingjian Township, Nantou County (南投縣名間鄉濁水火車站前 )Tel: (049) 2732-116 ext. 150Website: www. mjnm.gov.tw

FESTIVAL

A tour of Taiwan wouldn’t be complete without trying the many different specialty foods available in all island regions, big and small. To facilitate travelers’ culinary experience, the nationwide Taiwan Food Festival was launched earlier this year, combining 22 local food-related festivals held at different times of the year, one in each of Taiwan’s cities and counties.

Specialties of Cities and Counties Highlighted During the Taiwan Food Festival By Christine Harris

FINE FOOD ISLAND- WIDE

Travel in Taiwan 24

On the festival’s official website (http://theme.taiwan.net.tw/taiwanfood/index.html) you are presented with a

large map of Taiwan showing all the festivals that are part of the Taiwan Food Festival, and detailed information on each of them (at present only in Chinese).

If you plan to visit Taiwan this year, find out which festivals take place during the time of your visit. A multitude of specialty food and local produce offers, along with rich cultural programs, will be available to you.

Following is a list of all events for the second half of 2011. Note that the dates of some were not set at the time of writing. Please contact the organizer for further information.

Taipei

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PINGLIN BAO-CHUNG TEA FESTIVAL 坪林包種茶節

Pinglin is a key tea-cultivation area in northern Taiwan, especially famous for its Baozhong tea. Visitors can taste this fra-grant tea and try a variety of dishes made with tea leaf or tea oil.

PLACE: Pinglin Old Street (坪林老街) and Pinglin Tea Museum (茶葉博物館) in Pinglin District (坪林區), New Taipei CityMONTH: DecemberCONTACT: Pinglin District Office (坪林區公所)TEL: (02) 2665-7251WEBSITE: www.pinglin.ntpc.gov.tw (Chinese)

PERSIMMON FESTIVAL 柿餅文化節

The persimmons of Hsinchu’s Xinpu Township are avidly consumed fresh, and also avidly consumed in sun-dried form as “persimmon cakes,” a delicious sweet treat that is the perfect snack when drink-ing tea.

PLACE: Xinpu Township (新埔鎮), Hsinchu CountyMONTH: September ~ OctoberCONTACT: Hsinchu County Government (新竹縣政府)TEL: (03) 333-4933

N O R T HTravel in Taiwan

25

Keelung

Yilan

FOOD

TAIPEI INTERNATIONAL NEW ROW MIAN FESTIVAL 臺北國際牛肉麵節

Beef noodles are among Taipei’s most representative foods, with hundreds of res-taurants specializing in different varieties of this simple yet wonderfully savory and hearty treat. During the festival many chefs will present their newest creations.

PLACE: Expo Dome, Yuanshan Park (圓山公園爭艷館), Taipei CityMONTH: NovemberCONTACT: Taipei City Office of Commerce (臺北市商業處)TEL: (02) 2720-8889 ext. 6507

SHIMEN FRESH FISH TOURISM FESTIVAL 石門活魚觀光節

Shimen Reservoir is one of Taiwan’s largest, and is a popular destination for weekend outings. While there, be sure to try the reservoir’s freshwater fish, served in myriad ways in restaurants close by.

PLACE: Shimen Reservoir (石門水庫), Taoyuan CountyMONTH: SeptemberCONTACT: Taoyuan County Government (桃園縣政府)TEL: (03) 333-4933

KEELUNG SQUID FESTIVAL 基隆鎖管季

During the Squid Festival, visitors to the northern harbor city of Keelung can not only sample delicious seafood cuisine centered on squid, but also go on exciting squid-fishing tours.

PLACE: Bisha Fishing Harbor (碧砂漁港), Keelung CityMONTH: June ~ AugustCONTACT: Keelung City Government (基隆市政府) TEL: (02) 2422-5800 WEBSITE: www.klcg.gov.tw

HSINCHU CITY RICE NOODLE

& MEAT BALL FESTIVAL 新竹市米粉摃丸節

One of the most popular things to do when in Hsinchu is visit the night market adjacent to the City God Temple to try the city’s two most famous specialties, rice noodles and meatball soup.

PLACE: Hsinchu City (新竹市)MONTH: October 14 ~ 16CONTACT: Hsinchu County Government (新竹縣政府)TEL: (03) 521-6121 ext. 257

HAKKA BANZAI FESTIVAL 苗栗客家粄仔節

This festival introduces you to the special-ties of the Hakka people living in Miaoli County, including a wide range of rice-based cakes, noodles, and pastries.

PLACE: Miaoli City (苗栗市)MONTH: November ~ DecemberCONTACT: Miaoli County Government (苗栗縣政府)TEL: (037) 352-961WEBSITE: miaolitravel.net/

NANFANGAO MACKEREL FESTIVAL 南方澳鯖魚節

Nanfangao in Yilan County is the largest fishing port on Taiwan’s east coast. Mack-erel makes up a large portion of the annual catch, and the freshest samples can be tasted at many harborside restaurants.

PLACE: Nanfangao Fishing Harbor (南方澳漁港), Suao Township (蘇澳鎮), Yilan CountyMONTH: One or two days in September~OctoberCONTACT: Yilan County Fisheries Manage-ment Office (宜蘭縣漁業管理所) TEL: (03) 925-2257; Suao Fishermen’s Association (蘇澳區漁會); (03) 996-2108

FESTIVAL

Travel in Taiwan 26

TAIWAN COFFEE FESTIVAL 臺灣咖啡節

While Taiwan is known as a major tea pro-ducer, it also has quality coffee cultivation. Gukeng in Yunlin County is the county’s, and island’s, main coffee-growing center, and the best place for trying locally grown coffee beans.

PLACE: Huashan, Gukeng Township (古坑鄉華山), Yunlin CountyMONTH: November ~ DecemberCONTACT: Yunlin County Government (雲林縣政府)TEL: (05) 533-6104WEBSITE: tour.yunlin.gov.tw

CHICKEN RICE FESTIVAL 雞肉飯節

A bowl of rice, shredded chicken on top – the most representative dish of Chiayi City in southern Taiwan makes for a simple yet nevertheless mouthwatering and filling meal.

PLACE: Chiayi City (嘉義市)MONTH: April ~ DecemberCONTACT: Chiayi City Government (嘉義市政府)TEL: (05) 216-7168

Pingtung

Taichung

Nantou HualienChanghua

Yunlin

Chiayi

Tainan

TaitungKaohsiung

BEEF AND BEER FESTIVAL 臺南市清燙牛肉啤酒節

Tainan County is a major producer of beef in Taiwan, and Tainan City is therefore an excellent place to taste fresh locally pro-duced beef. Taiwan Beer brewed at the local Shanhua Brewery is the perfect accompa-nying drink.

PLACE: TTL Shanhua Brewery, Shanhua District (臺灣菸酒股份有限公司善化啤酒廠), Tainan CityMONTH: October ~ NovemberCONTACT: Tainan City Government (臺南市政府)TEL: (06) 637-2338WEBSITE: www.tainan.gov.tw

ALISHAN TEA FOOD & DRINK FESTIVAL 阿里山茶鄉驚豔 -茶飲食節

Alishan is a must-visit destination for any visitor exploring Taiwan. After taking in breathtaking scenery and walking amidst pristine forest, sit down for a delightful cup of high-mountain tea.

PLACE: Southern & Northern Tea Cultivation Areas on Alishan (嘉義縣阿里山茶之南 北道)MONTH: SeptemberCONTACT: Chiayi County Government (嘉義縣政府)TEL: (05) 370-3550WEBSITE: www.tbocc.gov.tw

BAMBOO SHOOT AND TEA FESTIVAL 筍鮮茶香．南投極美節

The Nantou County townships of Zhushan and Lugu are best known for bamboo and tea, respectively. For this festival local res-taurants specially prepare innovative dishes combining bamboo shoots and tea.

PLACE: Zhushan Township and Lugu Town-ship (竹山鎮 鹿谷鄉), Nantou CountyMONTH: OctoberCONTACT: Nantou County Government (南投縣政府)TEL: (049) 224-3971WEBSITE: travel.nantou.gov.tw

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Travel in Taiwan 27

EAST COAST SAILFISH FESTIVAL 東海岸旗魚季

Sailfish season in Taitung starts in No-vember. Fishermen catch the fish using a traditional harpoon method. During the festival, tours to scenic spots and seafood restaurants are offered.

PLACE: Seaside Park, Chenggong Township (成功鎮海濱公園), Taitung CountyMONTH: NovemberCONTACT: Taitung County Government (台東縣政府)TEL: (089) 326-141 ext. 516WEBSITE: www.taichung.gov.tw

OLD WINE AND RED

YEAST FOOD FESTIVAL 老酒紅糟美食節

Matsu is famous for its “old wine,” made with glutinous rice and red yeast. The red yeast is also used in a variety of dishes, which are placed at the center of diners’ tables during this festival.

PLACE: Nangan Township (南竿鄉), Lien-chiang County (Matsu) MONTH: AugustCONTACT: Lienchiang County Government (連江縣政府)TEL: (0836) 25-131WEBSITE: www.matsu.gov.tw

GROUPER CULTURAL FESTIVAL 澎湖石斑文化季

Penghu is a popular destination for summer tours. While visiting the islands you can explore old fishing villages, go on trips to coastal oyster and fish farms, and indulge in fresh seafood of infinite variety.

PLACE: Caiyuan Village, Erkan Village, Qitou Village (菜園村,二崁村,岐頭村),PenghuMONTH: August ~ OctoberCONTACT: Penghu County Government (澎湖縣政府)TEL: (06) 926-2620WEBSITE: www.penghu.gov.tw

CHANGHUA BA-WAN FESTIVAL 彰化肉圓節

The specialty travelers should try when vis-iting Changhua is “ba-wan,” a translucent-dough skin filled with a savory stuffing (most often minced pork, bamboo shoots, and mushrooms), and served with a sweet and savory sauce.

PLACE: Changhua City (彰化市)MONTH: November ~ DecemberCONTACT: Changhua County Government (彰化縣政府)TEL: (04) 728-7488WEBSITE: www.chcg.gov.tw

SUNFISH FESTIVAL 曼波魚節

Giant sunfish reach the eastern coast of Taiwan by following the Kuroshio Current. This fish is a delicacy in Taiwan, and is prepared in myriad ways by seafood chefs in Hualien.

PLACE: Xincheng Township (新城鄉), Hualien CountyMONTH: July ~ AugustCONTACT: Hualien County Government (花蓮縣政府)TEL: (03) 822-7171 ext. 524 / (03) 823-0751

FONXWUSIAHGZQRNLFONXWUSIAHGZQRNLFONXWUSIAHGZQRNLNCDBEPRQYZACDXVUTSLMNO

Kaohsiung at night

Modern and Romantic City Scenery

With the Love River f lowing right through its center, the southern harbor city of Kaohsiung is a romantic city indeed. This is especially true in the evening, when the river and

its bridges, the harbor, and many of the modern high-rises beside them are colorfully illuminated. A good vantage point to see the city is the Former British Consulate overlooking the harbor, but

if you want to see Kaohsiung from even greater heights, the Tuntex Sky Tower, the city’s tallest building, offers breathtaking bird’s-eye views. To take in the scenery at the water’s level, a

Love River boat cruise is among the most romantic options.

Love River Light installation

Travel in Taiwan 28

MY PHOTO TOUR

FONXWUSIAHGZQRNLFONXWUSIAHGZQRNLFONXWUSIAHGZQRNLNCDBEPRQYZACDXVUTSLMNO

Kaohsiung in the evening

Merry-go-round at the Dream Mall

Kaohsiung sk yline

Modern department store

Dream Mall Ferris wheelTaking in the evening scenery

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NIGHTVIEW

THE BEST ROUTES

Travel in Taiwan 30Travel in Taiwan 30

Ocean, mountains, paddy f ields – eastern Taiwan at its best

Pacific Ocean All the WayFollowing the Scenic East Coast on Highway 11

Hugging the east coast for just over 150 kilometers between the city of

Hualien in the north and Taitung in the south, Provincial Highway No. 11 offers

wonderful views of Taiwan’s Pacific coastline and the opportunity to explore

one of the least developed – and most beautiful – areas of the island.

By David Bratt

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HIGHWAY 11

Travel in Taiwan 31

THE BEST ROUTE

Travel in Taiwan 32

If there’s any road in Taiwan begging to be tripped, it’s Highway 11. With mountains on its west side for much

of its length and lovely seashore on its east, the route runs through some of the loveliest countryside in Taiwan. But it’s not just the scenery that makes this stretch of road so appealing. It’s more the combination of the diverse landscape, the great seafood, and the warm and friendly people you’ll meet that makes Highway 11 such a great choice for a leisurely sojourn.

Of course, beginning a trip on Highway 11 requires getting there in the f irst place, which for this writer entailed a four-and-a-half-hour train ride from Taipei to Taitung (Taipei-Hualien three hours). Upon disembarking in Taitung, stop f irst at the station’s information center to pick up a map of the region. After renting a car (or motor scooter) at the railway station (see the “Logistics” section at the end of the article), follow the signs east through town and take the on-ramp onto the highway to begin your journey.

As many of the attractions along Highway 11 showcase the area’s unique geology, a good f irst stop is the Xiaoyeliu scenic area f ive minutes north of Taitung. The visitor center here features a helpful video introduction (in both English and Chinese) on the tectonic processes responsible for the east coast’s geological makeup. There’s also a neat display on the tofu, mushroom, and honeycomb rock that dominates the Xiaoyeliu shoreline. While combining these ingredients in a recipe would certainly make for a strange meal, as rock formations they contrast in a visually dynamic way that photo and geology buffs will admire.

To balance out the beginning of your trip with some cultural exploration, continue north 20 minutes to the town of Dulan. Over the past few years, the sugar-manufacturing complex that once served as Dulan’s industrial core has been

slowly transformed into a lively arts center, with galleries and shops selling indigenous, Han Chinese, and

Western artwork. There are also weekly concerts on Saturday nights at the Dulan Café, and sometimes in the factory itself. If you can’t make it to Dulan on the weekend, at least stop in to browse the shops and try one of the many types of unique-f lavor popsicles (durian fruit in ice form, anyone?).

While there is a variety of inexpensive B&Bs in this area (one good choice is Zoology, a B&B/activity center/restaurant by the sea about ten minutes south of Dulan), should you be in the mood for something more upscale look no further than Grace House, a vacation villa 50 minutes north of Dulan. Included in the rental fee (anywhere from NT$19,965/night for one person to NT$40,465/night for a group of eight) is a delicious breakfast, dinner, and afternoon tea; wonderful views of the ocean from rooms suffused with the scent of camphor oil; and a chance to experience f irst-hand the height of Taiwanese hospitality. The owner Domo, who has lived in the area his

Tofu, mushroom, and honeycomb rock dominates

the shore at Xiaoyeliu

THE BEST ROUTES

WHAT’S SEEN ON THE WAY FOLLOWING COASTAL HIGHWAY 11 There were many amazing things seen on this road-trip. Here are some of the highlights!

Majestic Keelung Mountain

Rock formations at YeliuBoat-shaped church at Changbin

Exploring tiny coves at Shitiping

Travel in Taiwan 33

HIGHWAY 11

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Seaside garden at Grace House

Moon Cave near Shitiping

Coastal road in Taitung

Clif f House

THE BEST ROUTE

Travel in Taiwan 34

whole life, is enthusiastic about sharing his knowledge of the area and will happily include guests in the morning bike rides and beach walks that he takes with his two-year-old son.

And don’t forget the villa’s spa services! If you do make the wise choice to get a morning massage (not included in the rental price), try to have Mr. Kawten as your masseur. Aside from giving a mean foot rub, Mr. Kawten is also happy to teach customers a song or two sung by the Amis people native to the area.

Continuing north, consider making the town of Chenggong your

next stop. While the town itself is not a tourist draw, it’s worth a stop because of Chenggong Sailfish, a family-run sushi joint/coffee shop. The model ship and harpoon and the wholesale f ish-selling business on the f irst f loor all hint at how closely connected this enterprise is to the nearby f ishing harbor and the ocean beyond. Indeed, Mr. Li Bao-shan, the owner of Chenggong Sailf ish, recalls with nostalgia his time harpooning f ish on the open seas. “Nowadays,” he muses, “the closest that I get is picking up f ish at the harbor every afternoon.” You’ll appreciate Mr. Li’s eye for a good f ish when you head up to the restaurant on the second

f loor of the building. The cut of sailf ish we tried had a great texture and taste, while the sushi platter was equally fresh and tantalizing. If you have time and a strong stomach and are in the area around 3pm, you might also head down to the harbor (ask the staff for directions) to see Mr. Li in action as he and scores of other residents and shop owners bid on the daily catch of f ish strewn about on the docks.

If the sight of a f ishing harbor doesn’t pique your curiosity, head north 10 minutes from Chenggong and check out Sanxiantai, a small island connected to the coast via a distinctive dragon-shaped pedestrian bridge. Sanxiantai, which means Terrace of the Three Immortals, features three huge rocks supposedly resembling three of the immortals of traditional Daoist lore. Be forewarned, though: according to Chinese tradition, visit anything having to do with the immortals with your signif icant other and heartbreak is soon to follow. One immortal, having been spurned himself, delights in ending relationships between mortals.

During the one-hour drive north from Sanxiantai to the Shitiping scenic area, prepare yourself for some serious rock scrambling. Shitiping is particularly fun to explore because of the series of tiny coves that have formed among the large boulders by the ocean’s edge. Chasing after the crabs that scurry away from each of the waves that crash onshore is a blast, but don’t go too close to the raised shoreline here – the water is deep and the waves are powerful.

Drive 15 minutes further up the road and, after passing the town of Fengbin, on the right you’ll notice a tall structure topped with a windmill standing near a cliff. This is the aptly-named Cliff House, which is the perfect place to spend the second night on your trip up Highway 11 (rooms go for NT$2,600/night on weekdays and NT$3,200 on holidays and weekends). Run by a former railway worker from Taipei,

his wife, and their two daughters, this B&B has several rooms newly redecorated in light, airy colors. Each room has a private balcony perfect for soaking in the soothing sound of the ocean and enjoying

great views of the surrounding countryside and night sky. There’s a home-away-from-home intimacy to Cliff House that makes it a delightful place to stay.

Heading north towards Hualien on the f inal stretch of Highway 11, allow

yourself time to wander through the f ields and rice paddies that cover the area starting f ive minutes or so north of Cliff House. The f ields offer up spectacular views of the coast and cliffs here, and a chance to observe the hard work that goes into running a Taiwan farm. Look closely at the pools of water in the rice paddies and you’ll see entire ecosystems of interdependent plants, insects, and tadpoles.

If you still have time and energy and want to see some larger aquatic creatures, consider a stop at the Farglory Ocean Park 20 minutes south of Hualien. While it’s not quite Sea World, the park offers a variety of rides suitable

At Shitiping, prepare yourself for some

serious rock scrambling

THE BEST ROUTES

Farglory Ocean Park

Fengbin

Shitping

Sanxiantai

Chenggong

Xiaoyeliu Scenic Area

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While the staff at CarPlus (the

shop I rented from) speak passable English, and renting a car as a foreign guest in Taiwan is pretty straightforward, there are a few things you should be aware of:

If you’ll be in Taiwan less than 30 days, you’ll need to produce the international driver ’s license you acquired in your home country and your passport. If you’re planning a longer stay, you will also need the Taiwan DMV to either approve your driving credentials or issue

you a local license.Prices range from NT$2,000/day

for a compact to NT$5,000 for a van. For an additional NT$1,500 you can do as I did--rent the car in Taitung at the southern end of Highway 11 and return it at the northern end in Hualien, or vice versa if you’re heading north to south.

Foreign renters are required to leave an authorization to bill their credit card for whatever incidental expenses (tickets, f ines, etc.) they might incur during the rental period.

for all ages but particularly fun for kids. You can also see a dolphin show or get kissed by a sea lion (if you don’t mind the creatures being taken out of their natural habitats and turned into performers for humans). There’s also a museum on the aquatic life of the east coast that has some neat displays.

You’ll l ikely feel a twinge of disappointment when you see the signs for Hualien that indicate the end of the road is near. But you can take comfort in the fact that the sites described above comprise only a fraction of the diversity and beauty of the east coast, and that Highway 11 will always be waiting for your return.

{ENGLiSH & CHiNESE}

Amis people/tribe 阿美族

Chenggong 成功

Dulan 都蘭

Fengbin 豐濱 Lin Bao-shan 林寶山

Sanxiantai 三仙台

Shitiping 石梯坪

Xiaoyeliu 小野柳

GRACE HOUSE (八嗡嗡)TEL: (089) 841-878ADD: 16-2, Fengtian Rd., Chenggong Town-ship, Taitung County (台東縣成功鎮豐田路16-2號)wEbSiTE: www.gracehouse.com.tw (Chinese)

CLiFF HOUSE (崖上民宿)TEL: (03) 871-1222ADD: 211, Xinshe Village, Fengbin Town-ship, Hualien County (花蓮縣豐濱鄉新社村211號)wEbSiTE: www.cliffhouse.tw (Chinese)

FARGLORY OCEAN PARK (花蓮遠雄海洋公園)TEL: (03) 812-3199ADD: 189 Fude, Yanliao Village, Shoufeng Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣壽豐鄉鹽寮村福德189號)wEbSiTE: www.farglory-oceanpark.com.tw

CARPLUS (格上租車)TEL: (089) 227-979ADD: 602, Lane 101, Yanwan Rd., Taitung City, Taitung County (台東縣台東市岩灣路101巷602號)

DULAN CAFE (都蘭糖廠咖啡)TEL: (089) 530-060ADD: 61, Dulan Village, Donghe Township, Taitung County (台東縣東河鄉都蘭村61號)

ZOOLOGY (寄居蟹空間)TEL: 0926-464-567ADD: 191, Yuchang, Beinan Township, Taitung County (台東縣卑南鄉漁場191號)

CHENGGONG SAiLFiSH (成功旗魚)TEL: (089) 854-899ADD: 65-1, Datong Rd., Chenggong Town-ship, Taitung County (台東縣成功鎮大同路65-1號)

Logistics for Renting a Car:

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Step 1To make paper, you first need pulp, which is derived by soaking tree bark and tree stems in water and then using a shredding device (displayed on the first floor) to obtain a mixture of fine fibers.

Papermaking, as we learned in the

working area on the top floor of

the museum, is in fact a very simple

process. Friendly teacher Omi (歐米)

showed us how it is done.

Step 2Color dye can be added; we chose to make our paper red. Our pulp also contained 20% recycled paper, shredded into fine pieces. These paper bits appear as colorful dots in the finished paper.

Step 3We added the pulp to the water in a large container in the center of the working area, and gave the mix a stir. There was a striking resemblance to miso soup.

Step 4Then we used a simple wire screen in a wooden frame to carefully scoop out the fibers floating in the water. After the water drained through the screen, a thin mat of fibers remained on it. At this stage you can add various small ele-ments to make your paper more attractive, such as tiny leaves.

Step 5We then placed the frame, with the fiber mat facing down, on a few layered sheets of special absorbing paper. With a cloth we applied pres-sure on the screen to squeeze out the moisture.

Even in today’s electronic age, where people increasingly retrieve information via screens and books are often read with the help of e-reading devices, paper remains an indispensible daily-use item. Yet though we use it every

day we seldom give much thought to its origin or how it is made. Papermaking has come a long way since it was invented in China more than 2,000 years ago, but the basic principle has stayed the same regardless of the scale on which it is done. If you want to make some yourself, one sheet at a time, head to the SuHo Memorial Paper Museum for some hands-on-experience!

Learning about Papermaking at Taipei’s SuHo Memorial Paper Museum

Making Paper

By Kurt Weidner

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LEARNING EXPERIENCE

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Step 6We lifted up the screen, leaving the fiber mat/sheet on the absorbing paper, placed some more sheets of absorbing paper on top of that, and then used our hands to pat out more moisture. The full process doesn’t take more than half an

hour, and though admittedly very simple it is nev-ertheless, especially for kids, a fun experience with some educational value. The museum offers this kind of DIY experience Mon. to Sat., at 10 am and 11 am as well as 2 pm and 3 pm. Each sheet of self-made paper is priced NT$80. Teacher Omi explains the process in English if needed.

Step 7For the final step the fiber sheet, which was still far from being completely dry, was taken to a drying device on the first floor. A few minutes in this dryer and the paper was dry and flat, ready to take home. Attached to each sheet of paper is a “Papermaking Golden Award” certificate with your name on it, as proof that you have completed the first step in becoming a master papermaker.

SUHO MEMORIAL PAPER MUSEUM (樹火紀念紙博物館)ADD: 68, Chang’an E. Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City (台北市長安東路二段68號)TEL: (02) 2507-5539FEES: Museum NT$100, Museum + DIY Papermaking NT$180WEB: www.suhopaper.org.tw

How to get there:

Take the MRT Bannan (Blue) Line to Zhongxiao Xinsheng Station, leave the station by Exit 4 and follow Songjiang Rd. to Chang’an Rd. (a walk of about 10 min-utes); or take the MRT Luzhou (Orange) Line to Songjiang Nanjing Station, leave the station by Exit 4 and follow Songjiang Rd. to Chang’an Rd. (a walk of about 5 minutes).

About SuHo Memorial Paper MuseumLocated in downtown Taipei, the SuHo Memorial Paper Museum was estab-lished in 1995 by the children of a paper-industry entrepreneur to fulf ill the dreams of their father to keep traditional techniques alive. The museum is easily

overlooked, because it is in a very narrow build-ing squeezed between larger off ice buildings. In-side, however, it is surprisingly spacious. Over four f loors the museum introduces visitors to all aspects of papermaking, with an emphasis on educational activities. You can learn about the history of paper, conservation of paper relics, innovation in paper art, the use of paper in daily life, traditional papermak-ing processes, restoration of damaged and old paper, and creative uses for waste paper. The museum also frequently showcases the work of paper artists.

PAPERMAKING

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FOOD JOURNEY

Travel in Taiwan 38

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Harvesting the shoots of edible bamboo

FOOD JOURNEY

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Zhushan (lit. “Bamboo Mountain”) Township, located almost at the geographic center of Taiwan

in southwest Nantou County, is home to the Bamboo Production Cooperative, which now sends 25kg of freshly cut, two-year-old main-stem golden striped bamboo to the zoo every Monday morning, and another 25kg on Fridays.

But Zhushan is not just a nutritional paradise for hungry black-and-white bears. It is also a good destination for visitors wishing to understand the many functions bamboo serves for Taiwan’s human residents. They can even eat a dish or two of it as well.

With over 100 species of bamboo growing on site, DIY courses for

young and old, and explanations covering everything from ancient

skills used in bamboo horticulture to the latest developments in

bamboo charcoal health products, the cooperative’s Bamboo Culture Park is a good place to start learning. And yes, there is also a

restaurant sell ing bamboo-related dishes.

Entrance is NT$80 for adults and NT$30 for children. DIY courses

range from NT$50 for a bamboo frog and NT$100 for a hand-held

windmill to NT$150 to learn how to cook steamed bamboo and baozi

(buns with/without meat f ill ing) or make a bamboo bonsai. Snacks

range from NT$50 for bamboo-tube rice to NT$200 for a set meal.

Alternatively, visitors can sign up for an overnight stay with

two half-day itineraries that include DIY courses, hiking uphill to

cultivate and collect bamboo shoots, and trips to local handicraf t

factories, as well as dinner and breakfast. Pickup is from the nearby

With over 100 species of bamboo growing on site and DIY courses for young and old, the Bamboo Culture Park

is a good place to learn about bamboo

When the Taipei Zoo acquired the pandas Tuantuan and Yuanyuan in 2008, it was faced with the problem of sourcing food for the notoriously fussy eaters. Not only do pandas live primarily on a diet of bamboo, but they eat only certain species, and only certain parts of those species. Perhaps not surprisingly, the zoo contacted “Bamboo Mountain.”

By Mark Caltonhill

Learning about an Amazingly Useful Plant at the Center of Taiwan

“Without Bamboo, Life is Vulgar”

FOOD JOURNEY

Travel in Taiwan 40

Ji ji Railway Station, and accommodation is in 2- to 8-person rooms in which the beds, f loors, chairs, curtains, and decorations are all made of bamboo. Prices are around NT$1,200 per person on weekdays, NT$1,800 on weekends/holidays.

The park’s general manager, Chen Ching-fu, recalls growing up in Zhushan: “The hills really were

literally covered in bamboo. Back then, 70 percent of the township’s population of 60,000 was employed in growing, harvesting, transporting, treating, manufacturing, or sell ing bamboo or bamboo products.”

Today, although swathes of hillside are still covered in bamboo, most are not. Wild-growing forest has taken back untilled land, and higher-value cash crops such as tea, fruit, and betel nut compete for farmers’ attention.

Chen acknowledges that the “bamboo mountains” of yesteryear did not represent the area’s original appearance and that bamboo was introduced as a cash crop in the early 20th century, largely in response to Japanese colonial government inf luence. Indeed, it was the Japanese who gave the township its name; hitherto it had been known as Lin Qi Village, af ter the man who brought the land under Han Chinese cultivation in the 17th century.

Chen enthusiastically introduces the botany, geography, history, and economics of bamboo using samples growing at the culture park. Thorny bamboo, for example, is well suited for use as scaffolding, not because of the thorns which give it its name, but because it grows broad and strong. The long but f lexible sections of makino bamboo, on the other hand, are ideal for making the carrying poles which porters used in days gone by to carry their goods and hawkers to haul their wares around the streets. Hedge bamboo is neither very tall nor very dense, and is therefore good for protecting homes from wind while allowing sunlight through. Pear bamboo grows more densely, so it was used in earlier times to create defensive walls around settlements. Soft strips of cane taken from long-branch bamboo are used for weaving baskets, hats, and even clothing; black bamboo (“purple bamboo”) is used for f lutes; and the denser wood of makino and moso bamboo is the best for making charcoal.

A great many species of bamboo growing in the park have no utilitarian function, but are popular simply for their beauty or other striking features. These include yellow and green striped stems, closely packed nodes, square stems, large seeds, and so forth.

And, needless to say, Taiwan’s gastronomes have had centuries to discover the tastiest varieties: giant timber bamboo is widespread because of its long growing season, though large-f lowered giant bamboo (a.k.a. sweet bamboo) is preferred for its sweet shoots, makino bamboo is chosen for its softer stems, and moso bamboo is also popular (see “Let’s Eat” on p. 43).

Many species of bamboo growing in the park have no utilitarian function, but are popular for their

beauty or other striking features

Guest room of Bamboo Culture Park P

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Bamboo shoots

Bamboo grove

BAMBOO

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A glance around any local hotel room, restaurant, or temple will reveal a wide range of objects made

of bamboo. Call igraphy brushes (筆 ), chopsticks (筷 ), toothpicks (牙籤 ), Cantonese-style dim sum steamers (籠 ), baskets (籃 ), fences (籬 ), divination blocks (筊 ), and divination strips (籤 ) all have bamboo as material and, l ike the above-mentioned carrying poles (竿 ) and f lutes (笛 ), are written with the bamboo radical ( ), under which they are classif ied.

In fact, a look through the hundreds of such characters in a dictionary reveals countless other roles f illed by bamboo in former times, particularly before the invention of plastics. Examples include the abacus (算盤 ), f ish traps (魚簍 ), the eaves of houses (簷 ), curtains (簾 ), hairpins (簪 ), talismans (符 ), raf ts (筏 ), and even lunch boxes (籩 ). Indeed, before the invention of paper, bamboo’s contribution to writing wasn’t l imited to brushes but also included the strips (簡 ) on which words were written and the “books” (籍 ) formed by binding these together. Today this old-time role remains captured in such writing-related words as “to sign one’s name”(簽 ) and “to reply” (答 ).

Chen often wears a typical Taiwanese farmer ’s hat called a douli (斗笠 ), and visitors to

the park’s shop might even be fortunate enough to see his

85-year-old mother demonstrating the ancient handicraf t by which this type of hat and other items are woven.

The general manager and his staff lead tours of local factories and handicraf t centers where ear picks, toys, chopsticks, spoons, walking sticks, tea pots, cups, trays, fans, pillows, baskets, tables and chairs, f lutes and xylophones, and countless other objects are made.

Farmer Chen in his bamboo grove

FOOD JOURNEY

Travel in Taiwan 42

Of particular importance are the three factories making bamboo swords for practitioners of kendo, the Japanese martial art. This, Chen explains, keeps the bamboo industry alive in Zhushan. The bottom 1.5 meters of only the best bamboo is used for these expensive made-for-export weapons; the rest of this bamboo, and the less perfect canes, are used for just about everything else. No part is wasted. Without kendo, “bamboo mountain” would become “tea and betel mountain,” he says.

Returning to the park, Chen points out a traditional bamboo bridge and a bamboo waterwheel used to irrigate the f ields. In days past, local youths had to learn the skills needed to construct them before they could marry, but now the structures are made of metal, as bamboo rots quickly if continually soaked in water and these days there is an insuff icient number of young men in Zhushan will ing to keep the skills alive.

As sunset falls over Zhushan’s bamboo groves, Chen says that his dream, and the mission of the Bamboo Culture Park, is to keep bamboo handicraf ts and bamboo products alive, “so that Zhushan might once again be covered in bamboo as it was in my childhood.”

As the 11th-century poet Su Dongpo (蘇東坡 ) said, “Without bamboo, l ife is vulgar.”

BAMBOO CULTURE PARK (青竹文化園區)ADD: 31, Fuzhou Lane, Fuzhou Village, Zhushan Township, Nantou County (南投縣竹山鎮富州里富州巷31號)

TEL: (049) 262-3928, 0910-377-898 WEBSITE: www.bamboo.org.tw

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Bamboo Production 青竹生產 Cooperative 合作社

baozi 包子

Chen Ching-fu 陳靖賦

Jiji 集集

Lin Qi Village 林圯埔

Mt. Guanyin 觀音山

Zhushan 竹山

BAMBOO VARiETiEs

giant timber bamboo 綠竹

black bamboo 紫竹

giant bamboo 麻竹

golden striped bamboo 金絲竹hedge bamboo 蓬萊竹

long-branch bamboo 長枝竹

makino bamboo 桂竹

pear bamboo 梨果竹

moso bamboo 孟宗竹

thorny bamboo 刺竹

A good place to learn about bamboo close to Taipei is the Wugu Green Bamboo Community located on the slopes of Mt. Guanyin. The establishment offers DIY courses and introductions to bamboo farming.

WUGU GREEN BAMBOO COMMUNiTY (五股綠竹社區)ADD: 25, Lingyun Rd., Sec. 3, Wugu District, New Taipei City

(新北市五股區凌雲路三段25號)TEL: (02) 2291-2697, 2291-2812

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Kendo swords made in Zhushan

BAMBOO

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Dishes made with bamboo at Biyao Mountain Community

Bamboo charcoal flavored douhua at the garden restaurant of Bamboo Culture Park

Although not as exotic as Japanese puffer fish sashimi – nor nearly as dangerous – many of the thousand-plus species of bamboo worldwide do contain toxins. Nevertheless, once disarmed through steaming, boiling, or stewing, most can be safely eaten, and offer a culinary experience not familiar to many visitors from abroad. By Mark Caltonhill

Savoring Bamboo in Zhushan

Eating Like a Panda

LET'S EAT!

Travel in Taiwan 44

The park also offers a DIY course in making bamboo-f lavored baozi (steamed buns with/without meat f ill ing). Naturally, the restaurant’s chopsticks, trays, bowls, cups, tables, and chairs are all made of Zhushan bamboo.

For those unable to make the trip from Taipei to central

Taiwan, the slopes of Mt. Guanyin in the Wugu and Bali districts of New Taipei City are also covered with bamboo groves. Area restaurants offer a range of bamboo dishes, along with

local specialties such as free-range chicken.

Biyao Mountain Community, a restaurant inside a 150-year-old farmhouse beside Lingyun Temple on Mt. Guanyin, is popular with hikers and epicureans alike. A bamboo-rich meal begins with bamboo-shoot “salad,” consisting of lumps of boiled shoot served chilled and eaten af ter dipping into mayonnaise. This is the most common bamboo dish throughout Taiwan.

Biyao’s house special is “three cups bamboo shoots,” in which similar pieces of shoot replace the more common chicken in “three cups chicken,” slow-cooked with mushroom,

garlic, chili, basil, and ginger in a soy sauce/sesame oil/rice wine sauce. Another unusual main dish is “bamboo jerky with pork,” made with strips of sun-dried bamboo.

For dessert the restaurant offers “bamboo and fruit rolls,” a pleasant combination of fruit and vegetable fried in a thin f lour skin and served cool. All this is f inally washed down with chicken and bamboo soup. While the menu is more suitable for groups of diners, Biyao also has a two-person option for NT$980.

Mt. Guanyin is a beautiful location to walk off such a banquet, with f ine views over the Danshui River, the town of Danshui across the river, and Taipei in the far distance.

BiYAO MOUNTAiN COMMUNiTY (碧瑤山莊)

Add: 112 Lingyun Rd., Sec. 3, Wugu District, New Taipei City (新北市五股區凌雲路三段112號)TEL: (02) 2291-1507GETTiNG THERE: Take the Orange 20 bus from MRT Luzhou Station to the terminal station on Mt. Guanyin

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

“bamboo and fruit rolls” 竹筍水果捲

“bamboo jerky with pork” 筍乾扣肉

“bamboo-tube rice” 竹筒飯

giant timber bamboo 綠竹

Bali 八里

baozi 包子

douhua 豆花

makino bamboo 桂竹

moso bamboo 孟宗竹

Lingyun Temple 凌雲寺

Mt. Guanyin 觀音山

sweet bamboo 麻竹

“three cups bamboo shoots” 三杯竹筍

Wugu 五股

zongzi 粽子

The main species consumed in Taiwan include giant

timber bamboo, makino bamboo, sweet bamboo, and moso bamboo. The main parts of the plant eaten are the immature underground shoots – which turn bitter once they break clear of the soil, hence farmers’ practice of banking up earth around the base of the plant – as well as sof t young stems. The leaves are used to wrap zongzi (sticky-rice tamales), especially at the Dragon Boat Festival on the 5th day of the 5th lunar month.

The garden restaurant at the Bamboo Culture Park in Zhushan Township, Nantou County (see page 38), sells various items f lavored with bamboo charcoal, which is claimed to have health benef its. These include noodles, dumplings, ice cream, and douhua, a blancmange-like dessert made with soft tofu.

For their main dish in the NT$200 set menu, customers can choose either the noodles or dumplings, or “bamboo-tube rice,” a mixture of rice, vegetables, and meat slowly cooked in sections of bamboo over an open f lame. Side dishes include vegetables and stewed bamboo shoots, plus locally produced seasonal fruit such as tomato and guava.

Guestroom of Bamboo Culture Park

Guestroom of Bamboo Culture Park

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Preparing “bamboo tube rice”

Entrance to Biyao Mountain Coomunity

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Peculiar Taiwan

The West’s fair-skinned ladies want tanned skin. Taiwan xiaojie (Taiwan ladies) want lighter skin. What gives?

In the East, the traditional idea has been that the darker the skin the more menial the labor likely done. And

of course, the less sun you see the less wrinkling and aging your skin suffers. The ideal in the East is skin as soft and supple “as

(soft) tofu,” and xiaojie go to great lengths to preserve their youthfulness. Ladies working fields cover up head to toe – often in

pretty pastels – with just their twinkling eyes showing. On wedding days xiaojie have faces done up tofu-white like geisha girls;

i.e., “perfect” skin.

So if on the street on a hot summer day and a city lady goes zooming by on a scooter covered so thoroughly that only her

eyeballs are exposed, no, she’s not just robbed a bank and the cops are not right behind the two of you. She’s preserving her supple

beauty, and though you’ll never see it, she’s immensely proud that her skin is so much lighter and younger-looking than that of

her peers.

Taiwan“Xiaojie”By Rick CharetteExperts in Avoiding Tanned Skin

Taipei at night seen from Yangminghan

near Chinese Culture University

The Taipei Basin is surrounded by mountains, and there are literally hundreds of places where visitors can go to enjoy some fresh air and get a big-picture view of Taipei. Getting to these spots isn’t a problem either, with buses,

hiking trails, and even a cable car among the variety of transport options.

The skyline of Taipei, whilst not as famous as those of many other capital cities, is just as mesmerizing. This is especially true at night when the energetic, bustling, 24-hour nature of this city can be seen in its neon lights, high-rise buildings, and the never-ending flow of traffic. By Stuart Dawson

The Best Spots to Enjoy Taipei’s Nighttime Scenery

Twinkling Lights

Travel in Taiwan 46

LET'S GO OUT TONIGHT!

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NIGHT SCENERY

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The residents of Taipei are incredibly fortunate to have a national park sitting right on their doorstep. A 30-minute drive is all it takes to reach Yangmingshan National Park from downtown

Taipei; the park takes up the higher reaches of the Yangmingshan massif. There are a number of mountains in the park, and the highest, Seven Star Mountain, is almost as tall as Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK, giving those willing to make the hike to its peak great views at daytime and during the night.

Yangmingshan owes it’s origins to volcanic activity, and even though the volcanoes have long been dormant, evidence of this violent past can still be seen today. The hike to the top of Seven Star Mountain begins at Xiaoyoukeng, a huge fumarole gouged into the side of the mountain. Bright-yellow sulfur and hot jets of steam pour out of the rocks and fill the air with a pungent rotten-egg smell. It’s an incredible sight, and an exciting beginning to this short hike.

From Xiaoyoukeng it takes around an hour to reach the top of Seven Star Mountain. There are no trees at the top to shelter hikers from the elements. However, this also means there are incredible, unrestricted views of Taipei and the northern coast.

The weather in this part of Taiwan is often uncooperative, and hikers may need to wait a number of days in order to get a clear evening. Grab the opportunity when it comes – the scenery at night is fabulous and well worth the effort! Just be sure to bring a f lashlight and some warm clothes during the colder months, and raingear should the clouds roll in.

If hiking is not your thing, there are still a number of places to visit without having to stretch your legs too much. The picturesque hillside tea-growing area

of Maokong is very easy to get to; your choices are car, bus, or the popular Maokong Gondola.

There are many must-dos for visitors to Taipei, and if there’s a single must-do hike it is the one up and across an interconnected group of small mountains just south of Taipei 101 that is

known collectively as Four Beasts Mountain.The four mountains are named after four different animals – Tiger, Lion, Panther, and Elephant – the last being the most famous

among photography buffs for its unparalleled views of Taipei 101. On almost any fine-weather evening you’ll see groups of people crowding around the giant boulders just below the peak of Elephant Mountain vying for the best spots. On New Year’s Eve, when a mesmerizing fireworks show erupts and seems to envelop the giant skyscraper, many hike up here early in the morning and spend the whole day camped out to ensure they get the best view of the fireworks extravaganza at midnight.

Taipei 101 is the most prominent building seen from Four Beasts Mountain. However, on a clear day it’s surprising just how many of the city’s landmarks are visible. The Grand Hotel, the Ferris wheel atop Miramar Entertainment Park, the Yangmingshan massif, and even the meandering Danshui River in the far distance, on its way to the sea, are easily spotted.

What makes hiking Four Beasts Mountain especially attractive is its proximity to downtown Taipei. The trails are paved and trailheads easy to f ind, and there are map boards everywhere. All of the trailheads can be accessed after short trips from MRT stations (Taipei City Hall, Yongchun, Houshanpi) on the Bannan (Blue) Line, and many of the routes have lighting, providing a safe way to reach some of the best evening views of Taipei.

Four Beasts Mountain

Muzha Tourist Tea Plantations

Seven Star Mountain

Taipei 101 seen from Four Beasts Mountain

LET'S GO OUT TONIGHT!

Travel in Taiwan 48

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

Baozhong tea 包種茶

Chinese Culture University 中國文化大學Dajia Riverside Park 大佳河濱公園

Elephant Mountain 象山

Four Beasts Mountain 四獸山

He Xian-gu 何仙姑

Iron Goddess tea 鐵觀音

Lu Dong-bin 呂洞賓

Maokong 貓空

Maokong Gondola 貓空纜車

Miramar Ferris Wheel 美麗華摩天輪

Muzha 木柵

Seven Star Mountain 七星山

Tiger Mountain 虎山

Xiaoyoukeng 小油坑

Yangmingshan 陽明山

Zhinan Temple 指南宮

More Inspiring Places

Mountains around Taipei of fer great views of the city

Taipei 101 ObservatoryFormerly the tallest building in the world (that accolade now belongs to the Bur j Dubai), Taipei 101 has some great views of the

city it towers over. Take the elevator, which travels at an ear-popping 36.7mph, to the main observatory on the 89th f loor and then walk up two more f loors to the outdoor observatory for the best, if slightly vertigo-inducing, nighttime views.Miramar Ferris Wheel

This 70m-tall ferris wheel sits on top of Miramar Entertainment Park, and is the perfect place to take that special someone for a romantic evening. The ride, a single turn, takes around 20 minutes and at the highest point you see plenty of the city’s sights, including Dajia Riverside Park down below.

Tea cultivation has a long tradition in Maokong, and both superior leaf and production techniques were encouraged during the Japanese colonial period (1895~1945). Iron Goddess tea and Baozhong tea (both kinds are Oolongs) were introduced to Maokong from mainland China, and are now the best-known teas grown in the area.

Within a stone’s throw of the plantation-area gondola station are dozens of lovely rustic teahouses where visitors can try the local tea and delicious tea cuisine. Sitting out on the wooden deck of a hillside teahouse, with its expansive views of the city, has to be one the best ways to enjoy Taipei’s nighttime scenery.

Anyone heading up to Maokong should also make time to stop off at the attractive Zhinan Temple. There are superb views from the temple grounds, which are usually very peaceful and quiet in the evenings.

NIGHT SCENERY

ON STAGE / OFF STAGE

Travel in Taiwan 50Travel in Taiwan 50

Keeping It in the Family: I Wan Jan Puppet Theater

Scene of “ The Journey to the West” per formed by I Wan Jan Puppet Theater

Travel in Taiwan 51

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By Richard Saunders

A gilded wooden theater stands in front of row upon row of bright-red molded plastic stools, under the enormous entrance porch of Taipei’s historic Zhongshan Hall, and at first glance its ornately carved extravagance seems oddly out of place in this informal setting, outside the big front doors of one of Taipei’s original spaces formally dedicated to the performing arts. But this is the perfect setting for the evocatively Chinese art form called Taiwanese puppet theater or budaixi, an art form for the masses, like Taiwanese opera, which it resembles in several ways.

PUPPET THEATER

ON STAGE / OFF STAGE

Travel in Taiwan 52

Every one of the stools is

soon claimed, and

late arrivals are forced to stand as a

thunderous tattoo, thrashed out on

cymbals and drums, signals the start of

the performance by I Wan Jan Puppet Theater troupe with a violence that

has several of the many young children

in the audience throwing their hands

up to their ears. Af ter a few minutes

the heaven-storming percussion stops,

leaving our ears ringing. The remainder

of the ten-piece ensemble of Chinese

instruments strikes up, and behind

the curtains of the little theater the

puppet master is glimpsed – a boy of

just f if teen.

This early-starter is f rom the

fourth generation of the Li family ’s

I Wan Jan troupe to master this

traditional Taiwanese art form, and the great grandson of the most famous Taiwanese puppet master of them all, Li Tien-lu. Li founded I Wan Jan Puppet Theater exactly eighty years ago, in 1931, and in the intervening decades it’s gone on to become the most acclaimed budaixi troupe in Taiwan. Li worked tirelessly during his long life to promote the art form, teaching new puppet masters, giving performances in far-f lung places such as the USA, France, and Japan, winning many prizes for his work, and even taking the title role in famed Taiwan director Hou Hsiao-hsien’s f ilm The Puppetmaster (based on Li’s own story), which won a Jury Prize at Cannes in 1993. Master Li died in 1998, but his descendants continue to run I Wan Jan, giving numerous performances in Taiwan and touring abroad several times each year – Mexico is on the performance agenda for 2011.

The origins of budaixi can be traced back to China’s

Fujian province in the early 17th

century. The art was brought to Taiwan by Fujianese immigrants, gradually developing during the succeeding three centuries into the several forms practiced in Taiwan today. According to one of the troupe’s members, Lin Yung-chih, performances of budaixi are far more common in Taiwan nowadays than in mainland China, with troupes developing new, less traditional styles, including extremely popular made-for-TV puppet productions aimed at the younger market, chock-full of action sequences and special effects.

Lin explains the attraction of budaixi: “Its charm lies in the f igure images of the puppets, the skill of the puppeteer, and the combination of the stage set, music, and voices together,” going on to say that “Like close-up magic, it makes strict demands of the main puppeteer. There is one main puppeteer and three assistants, who are responsible for all characters in P

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The young puppet master brings life to each puppet via tiny movements of his

fingers, showing off his skill through several intricately choreographed sword fights

the play, even though 20 (puppets] may appear.”

For all its continuing popularity with audiences in Taiwan, however, f inding and training new troupe members has been challenging. Lee Chiun-kuang, executive secretary of Li Tien-lu Hand Puppet Historical Museum, points out that it takes at least three years to train a new puppeteer and with up to 20 puppets to maneuver during each show and about 10 shows in the troupe’s repertory, there’s a lot to learn. In 1984, I Wan Jan launched a new initiative, introducing the art form to elementary-school children around Taiwan, hoping to instill an early interest in the form and recruit some young new talent to swell the troupe’s numbers, which range in age from a tender nine years old to over 50.

For its performance today, I Wan Jan has chosen a short

extract from a well-loved Chinese classic, Journey to the West (perhaps most familiar in the Western world as a result of its incarnation as a popular TV series called Monkey). This is apparently one of the more elaborate pieces in the troupe’s repertoire, requiring the puppet master and his three assistants to handle (and give voice to) 20 characters, including several animals. As the production starts, a cloud of atmospheric smoke drif ts off the stage, and the f irst f igures appear.

The hollow head and hands of the glove puppets (into which the puppeteer inserts his f ingers) are carved from wood, while the body is made of cloth, the clothing worn of ten elaborately embroidered. Our young puppet master brings l ife to each puppet via tiny movements of his f ingers, showing off his skill through several intricately choreographed sword f ights and, in one especially impressive moment, having one of the characters daintily pick up a tiny, long-spouted teapot just a couple of centimeters tall and pour himself a drink. Real water

pours from the tiny spout, and not a drop misses the tiny target.

As well as bringing lifelike movements to the various puppets in the performance, the puppet master gives most of them their voice as well. The language is Taiwanese, although for their performances in foreign countries the troupe has developed a silent form with the story told purely through the movements of the puppets, a method that was inspired, says Lee Chiun-kuang, by French mime artist Marcel Marceau. For these dialogue-free foreign performances, he continues, the troupe performs both adapted traditional pieces and more unusual repertoire, including I Wan Jan’s own version of Shakespeare’s Henry IV!

When the performance f inishes the

puppeteers emerge from behind the stage, and af ter accepting our applause take out a handful of glove puppets and let the eager children have a go themselves. It’s a good opportunity to get a close-up look at the beautifully-made puppets. Lee points out that the over 300 puppets used in the troupe’s performances will have a l ifespan of many decades, but hundreds of older and more valuable puppets and other possessions have been put away for safekeeping. Seeing these involves a drive up to the Li Tien-lu Hand Puppet Historical Museum, hidden away on a quiet residential road outside the town of Sanzhi on the north coast of Taiwan, an hour from Taipei.

The museum occupies a two-story house, which from the outside looks just l ike the other Western-style, semi-detached residences along this quiet lane. Step inside the front door, however, and a beautiful gilded puppet theater, just l ike the one used by the troupe for performances, ushers the visitor into a different world. The f irst f loor is given over to hands-on exhibits of the hand-puppeteer ’s craf t. Visitors are welcome to try out the drums and other traditional musical instruments that are part of a

budaixi performance, paint and clothe their own hand puppet (for a small fee), and even give their own puppet performance in a second small theater. A small auditorium lined with red-velvet drapes l ies hidden away at the rear of the building, and is opened up once a month (usually on the weekend) for performances.

Heading up the stairwell to the second f loor, the face of Li Tien-lu himself smiles at you – a ghostly hologram. The rooms beyond are devoted mainly to displays of Li’s magnif icent collection of old puppets, musical instruments, embroidered clothes, and other tools of the puppet master ’s art. The best pieces in the master ’s collection are kept here, permanently locked away behind plate glass, where the life-like quality and beautifully caught expressions of many of the puppet heads, and the elaborate attention to detail in the embroidery on some of the tiny costumes, can be examined.

While Li Tien-lu’s beautiful collection shows the subtle, artistic side of this uniquely Taiwanese form of entertainment, his descendants continue to ensure the traditions are kept alive, to the delight of crowds of Taiwanese and a few foreigners too. I Wan Jan’s traditional brand of budaixi may be an art form enjoyed by the masses, but the skill on display during its performances makes this one form of popular art that can be equally appreciated by those with a more “discerning” taste as well.

{ENGLisH & CHiNEsE}

budaixi 布袋戲

Hou Hsiao-hsien 侯孝賢

Journey to the West 西遊記

I Wan Jan Puppet Theater 亦宛然掌中劇團

Li Tien-lu 李天祿

Sanzhi 三芝

The Puppetmaster 戲夢人生

Zhongshan Hall 中山堂

Li TiEN-LU HAND PUPPET HisTORiCAL MUsEUM (李天祿布袋文物館)

Add: 26, Zhibo Rd., Sanzhi District, New Taipei City (新北市三芝區芝柏路26號)

Tel: (02) 2636-9174, 8635-3917Website: ltlpuppet.pixnet.net/blog (Chinese)

Travel in Taiwan 53

PUPPET THEATER

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Travel in Taiwan54

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Travel in Taiwan55

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EXECUTIVE CLUB FLOOR

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100 Dun Hua North Road, Taipei Taiwan R.O.C.台北市敦化北路10 0號

Tel: 02.2719.7199 Fax: 02.2545.9288 E-mail: [email protected]

SUNWORLD DYNASTY HOTEL TAIPEI王朝大酒店 Taipei 台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 160

ROOM RATES: Single Room NT$ 4,200 Deluxe Single Room NT$ 4,600 Deluxe Twin Room NT$ 5,000 Suite Room NT$ 6,600

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:English, Japanese, Chinese

RESTAURANTS: Golden Ear Restaurant (Western semi buffet); Golden Pot (Chinese Cuisine)

SPECIAL FEATURES: Business Center, meeting rooms, airport transfer service, parking lot, laundry service, free Internet access, LCD TV, DVD player, personal safety box, mini bar, private bathroom with separate shower & bath tub, hair dryer

186 Songjiang Rd., Taipei City,1041 0 4台北市松江路18 6號

Exit1ofMRTXingtianTempleStationontheLuzhouLine.

Tel: 02.2541.5511 Fax: 02.2531.3831Reservation Hotline: 02.2541.6888

E-mail: [email protected]

www.galahotel.com.tw

TAIPEI GALA HOTEL慶泰大飯店Taipei台北

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GENERAL MANAGER: Linda Chu

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83 Civic Boulevard, Sec. 3, Taipei City, 1041 0 4台北市市民大道三段8 3號

Tel: 02.8772.8800 Fax: 02.8772.1010E-mail: [email protected]

www.miramargarden.com.tw

MIRAMAR GARDEN TAIPEI美麗信花園酒店Taipei台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 93 rooms, 28 offices, 4 meeting roomsROOM RATES: Superior Room NT$ 5,600+10% Executive Room NT$ 6,000+10% Junior Room NT$ 6,800+10% Excellency Room NT$ 7,800+10% Premium Suite NT$ 8,800+10%

GENERAL MANAGER: Te Yao

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: Chinese, English

SPECIAL FEATURES: Free wireless acess, VIP lounge, private meeting rooms and secretarial services, private office rental services, high-speed ADSL broadband Internet, non-smoking floors, safety deposit box, laundry service, limousine service, airport transportation, base-ment parking, gym

11F, 495 Guangfu S. Rd., Xinyi District, Taipei City 110

1 1 0台北市信義區光復南路49 5號 1 1樓

Tel: 02.8780.8000 Fax: 02.8780.5000 E-mail: [email protected]

www.businesscenter.com.tw

PACIFIC BUSINESS CENTER太平洋商務中心 Taipei 台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 487 (Suites: 57)ROOM RATES: Single/DBL NT$ 5,700 – 11,000 Suite NT$ 15,000 – 28,000

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English, French, Spanish, and Japanese

RESTAURANTS: Western, Cantonese, Northern China Style Dumplings, tea house, coffee shop

SPECIAL FEATURES: Grand Ballroom, conference rooms for 399 people, 10 breakout rooms, business center, fitness center, sauna, Olympic-size swimming pool, tennis courts, billiards

1 Chung shan N. Rd., Sec. 4, Taipei City, 10461 R.O.C1 0 4 6 1台北市中山北路四段1號

Tel: 886.2.2886.8888Fax: 886.2.2885.2885

www.grand-hotel.org

THE GRAND HOTEL圓山大飯店 Taipei 台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 538

ROOM RATES: Superior Room NT$ 12,000 Deluxe Room NT$ 13,000 Junior Suite NT$ 20,500 Corner Suite NT$ 30,500 Residence NT$ 17,000 Elite Suite NT$ 24,500DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:English, Japanese, Chinese

RESTAURANTS:Szechuan & Cantonese Cuisine, Japanese Cuisine, Steak House & Teppanyaki, Lounge Bar, Buffet, Café

SPECIAL FEATURES: Executive business center, fitness center, sauna, rooftop swim-ming pool, SPA, ballroom and convention facilities, parking, laundry service, 24-hour room service, wireless Internet, airport transportation service

41 Chung Shan (Zhongshan) N. Rd., Sec. 2, Taipei City, 104

1 0 4台北市中山北路二段41號

Tel: 02.2523.8000Fax: 02.2523.2828

www.grandformosa.com.tw

THE REGENT TAIPEI台北晶華酒店 Taipei 台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 220

ROOM RATES: Deluxe / Single / Twin & Double NT$ 7,800~8,500 Suite NT$ 9,500~20,000

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: Chinese, English, Japanese

RESTAURANTS: La Fontaine (Western), Chiou Hwa (Chinese)

SPECIAL FEATURES: Coffee Shop, Fitness Center, Business Center, laundry service, meeting and banquet facilities, non-smoking floor, parking lot, airport transfer service

GLORIA PRINCE HOTEL TAIPEI華泰王子大飯店 Taipei 台北

369 Lin-sen (Linsen) N. Rd., Taipei City, 104 1 0 4台北市林森北路3 6 9號

Tel: 02.2581.8111

Fax: 02.2581.5811, 2568-2924

www.gloriahotel.com

NO. OF ROOMS: 226ROOM RATES: Superior Single NT$ 3,200 ~ 3,500 Deluxe Single NT$ 4,000 ~ 5,000 Superior Twin NT$ 4,000 Deluxe Triple NT$ 4,500 Deluxe Twin NT$ 4,800 ~ 5,000 Deluxe Suite NT$ 7,000 ~ 10,000 Family Triple Room NT$ 4,300

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: Chinese, Japanese, English, Cantonese

RESTAURANTS: Shanghainese, Cantonese, Taiwanese snacks, Jiangzhe cuisine, Gelato Café, coffee shop

SPECIAL FEATURES: Conference rooms, flower shop, barber shop, souvenir shop, parking area

43, Chunghsiao (Zhongxiao) W. Rd.,Sec. 1, Taipei City, 100

(MRT Taipei Main Station, Exit 3)1 0 0台北市忠孝西路一段4 3號

(台北捷運總站3號出口)

Tel: 02.2361.7856 Fax: 02.2311.8921 Reservation Hotline: 02.2311.8901

Reservation Fax: 02.2311.8902 E-mail: [email protected]

www.cosmos-hotel.com.tw

COSMOS HOTEL天成大飯店 Taipei 台北Hotels of Taiwan

V isitors to Taiwan have a wide range of choice when it comes

to accommodation. From five-star luxury hotels that meet the

highest international standards, to affordable business hotels, to hot-

spring and beach resort hotels, to privately-run homestays located in the

countryside there is a place to stay that satisfies every traveler’s needs.

What all hotels of Taiwan — small and big, expensive and affordable —

have in common is that serve and hospitality are always of the highest

standards. The room rates in the following list have been checked for

each hotel, but are subject to change without notice. Room rates at the

hotels apply.

NO. OF ROOMS: 48ROOM RATES: Standard Room NT$ 6,000+10% Deluxe Room NT$ 6,500+10% Superior Suite NT$ 7,500+10%DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English, Chinese, Japanese,

RESTAURANTS: Lobby Lounge (Western and Chinese buffet breakfast)

SPECIAL FEATURES: Full-amenity meeting rooms, gym, business center, airport limousine service, laundry service, free mechanized parking lot, tour arrange-ments, currency exchange, close to the MRT system and major commercial and tourist sites.

ROYAL BIZ TAIPEI金來商旅 Taipei 台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 60

ROOM RATES: Deluxe Room NT$ 12,000 Grand Deluxe Room NT$ 12,500 Premier Room NT$ 13,000 Premier 9 NT$ 15,000 Éclat Suite NT$ 35,000

(All rates are inclusive of 5% VAT and subject to 10% service charge)

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:English, Taiwanese, Chinese, Japanese, Cantonese,

RESTAURANTS: Ming Yuen, Éclat Lounge, George Bar

SPECIAL FEATURES: Member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World; strategically located in the most fashionable and prestigious district of Taipei; offers guests great convenience for business and entertainment; Wi-Fi connectiv-ity and in-room business facilities; variety of meeting rooms providing the ideal venue for professional meetings, corporate functions, and social gatherings.

370, Sec. 1, Dunhua S. Rd., Da-an District, Taipei City 1061 0 6 台北市敦化南路一段37 0號

Tel: 02.2784.8888 Fax: 02.2784.7888Res. Hotline: 02.2784.8118

www.eclathotels.com

HOTEL ÉCLAT怡亨酒店Taipei台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 79

ROOM RATES: Superior Room NT$ 7,500 Business Room NT$ 8,500 Deluxe Room NT$ 9,500 Executive Deluxe Room NT$ 9,000 Executive Suite NT$ 10,000 Sense Suite NT$ 15,000DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English, Chinese, Japanese

RESTAURANTS: Sen Salon Restaurant

SPECIAL FEATURES: Business center, fitness center, meeting rooms, Club House with luxury furniture and advanced media facilities for private meetings and gatherings, wood-floored open-air Sky Garden, parking tower, close to the MRT system near Zhongshan Elemen tary school MRT station and key commercial and entertainment districts.

HOTEL SENSE伸適商旅 Taipei 台北

477, Linsen N. Rd., Zhongshan District, Taipei City 104

1 0 4台北市中山區林森北路47 7號

Tel: 02.7743.1000 Fax: 02.7743.1100

www.hotelsense.com.tw

71, Sec. 1, Jinshan S. Rd., Zhongzheng District, Taipei City 100

1 0 0台北市中正區金山南路一段71號

Tel: 02.2397.9399 Fax: 02.2397.1399 Res. Hotline: 02.2396.9321

E-mail:[email protected] [email protected]

www.royalbiz.com.tw

NO. OF ROOMS: 241ROOM RATES: Superior Room NT$ 7,000 Premier Room NT$ 8,000 Deluxe Room NT$ 9,000 Junior Suite NT$ 10,000 Garden Suite NT$ 16,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:Japanese, English, Chinese

RESTAURANTS: La Fusion Restaurant, La Fusion Bakery, Hanazono Japanese Restaurant, La Fusion Bar, La Fusion Deli

SPECIAL FEATURES: Fitness Center, Business Center, Conference & Dining Facilities; (Rooms Facilities) 32” LCD TV/Pay Broadband Internet Access/Multi Channel Satellite TV with Domestic and Foreign Programming/En-suite Shower and Bath/TOTO Washlet

1, Zhonghua Rd. Sec. 2, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City 10065

1 0 0 6 5台北市中正區中華路二段1號

Tel: 886.2.2314.6611 Fax: 886.2.2314.5511 E-mail: [email protected]

www.taipeigarden.com.tw

TAIPEI GARDEN HOTEL台北花園大酒店 Taipei台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 81ROOM RATES: Studio Room NT$ 8,000~ 9,000 Park View Room NT$ 8,800~ 9,800 Deluxe Suite NT$ 12,600~ 13,600 Park View Suite NT$ 20,000~ 21,000 Penthouse NT$ 50,000

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English, Japanese, Chinese

RESTAURANTS: Dining Lounge (Buffet Breakfast & Shanghai Cuisine)

SPECIAL FEATURES: A Member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, Showcase of Contemporary Taiwanese Art Collections, Personal Secretarial Assistance, All Day Free Coffee and Snack at the Lounge, Fitness Center, Free Wireless Internet Access in Guestrooms and Public Areas, Free Rental of Business Cell Phone, Complimentary 24-hour Shoeshine Service, 37” LCD TV, Pants Presser & Suit Rack, Multi-Functional Fax/Jet Printer, Sunken Bathtub

SAN WANT RESIDENCES TAIPEI台北神旺商務酒店Taipei台北

128 Nanjing East Rd., Sec. 1, Taipei City, 1041 0 4台北市南京東路一段1 2 8號

Tel: 02.2511.5185 Fax: 02.2511.1585 E-mail: [email protected]

www.swresidences.com

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Travel in Taiwan56

AdvertisementHOTEL INFORMATION

NO. OF ROOMS: 288ROOM RATES: Superior Room NT$ 8,000 Premier Room NT$ 8,500 Deluxe Room NT$ 9,000 Club Deluxe Room NT$ 10,000 Suite NT$ 13,000 ~16,000 Imperial Suite NT$ 28,000

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:English, Japanese, Chinese

RESTAURANTS:Cantonese, Steakhouse, Bar ,

T3(T Cube)Bar & Restaurant, T2(T Square )

Toyko In Dining Bar, T1(One )Thai Bistro, 24-

Hour Room Service

SPECIAL FEATURES: Banquet and Convention Facilities ,Business Center ,Fitness Center, Club Floors, MRT Transfer Service ,Parking Lot

600 Lin Shen North Rd., Taipei City,1041 0 4台北市林森北路6 0 0號

Tel: 02.2596.5111 Fax: 02.2592.7506E-mail: [email protected]

www.imperialhotel.com.tw

IMPERIAL HOTEL TAIPEI台北華國大飯店Taipei台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 88ROOM RATES: Standard Double Room NT$ 6,000 Deluxe Double Room NT$ 6,500~6,700 Superior Twin Room NT$ 6,500~6,700 Deluxe Triple Room NT$ 7,500 Deluxe Family Room NT$ 8,000 Business Suite NT$ 9,000~9,200 Premier Twin Suite NT$ 15,000

( Prices above including 15% Service Charge )

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English, Chinese, Japanese, Cantonese

RESTAURANTS: Chinese and Western buffet breakfast, Café One

SPECIAL FEATURES: Welcome fruit basket, newspaper, gym, free parking, free self-help laundry, business center, free cable and wireless Internet access, free pick-up service within city limits

NO. OF ROOMS: 211ROOM RATES: Superior Single Room NT$ 4,800 Superior Twin Room NT$ 5,400 Superior Triple Room NT$ 6,000 Superior Family Room NT$ 6,600 Deluxe Family Room NT$ 7,800 Deluxe Suite Room NT$ 8,800 Executive Suite Room NT$ 16,800(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English, Taiwanese, Chinese, Japanese

RESTAURANTS: Western buffet-style, Chinese

SPECIAL FEATURES:

Multifunctional banquet and meeting facilities, business center, male and female saunas, rental facilities for cars and bicycles, lounge bar, children’s games room, fitness center, chess room, outdoor swimming pool, green eco-pond, free transport to railway station and airport.

No.2, Yongxing Rd., Hualien City, Hualien County 970609 7 0 6 0花蓮市永興路2號

Tel: 03.823.5388 Fax: 03.822.1185 hualien.chateaudechine.com

CHATEAU DE CHINE HOTEL花蓮翰品酒店 Hualien花蓮

No.23, Zhongzheng Rd., Sun Moon Lake, Yuchi Township, Nantou County 55546

5 5 5 4 6南投縣魚池鄉日月潭中正路2 3號

Tel: 049.285.6788 Fax: 049.285.6600www.fleurdechinehotel.com

NO. OF ROOMS: 211ROOM RATES: Mountain View King Room NT$ 13,000~14,000 Mountain View Two Queen Room NT$ 13,000~14,000 Zen Mountain View Room NT$ 13,000~14,000 Lake View King Room NT$ 15,000~16,000 Lake View Two Queen Room NT$ 15,000~16,000 Washiki Lake View Room NT$ 15,000~16,000 Governor Lake View Suite NT$ 20,000~21,000 Royal Lake View Suite NT$ 25,000 Summit Lake View Suite NT$ 120,000 Penthouse Suite NT$ 150,000

(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: Chinese, English, Japanese RESTAURANT:Chinese food, buffet, teppanyaki, afternoon tea, lobby lounge, rooftop restaurant

SPECIAL FEATURES:Banquet and conference facil-ity, VIP lounge, boutique, wireless internet, e-butler, laundry service, room service, parking, SPA, hot-spring, play ground, swimming pool, gym, HSR transportation service, out circular concourse, trail hiking, etc.

FLEUR DE CHINE HOTEL雲品酒店Sun Moon Lake日月潭

No.3, Sec. 1, Chengde Rd., Taipei City 10351

1 0 3 5 1台北市承德路一段三號

Tel: 02.2181.9999 Fax: 02.2181.9988www.palaisdechinehotel.com

NO. OF ROOMS: 286ROOM RATES: Superior Room NT$ 11,000 Deluxe Room NT$ 12,500 Family Twin Room NT$ 14,500 Executive Superior Room NT$ 15,000 Executive Deluxe Room NT$ 16,500 Junior Suite NT$ 18,000 Executive Suite NT$ 21,000 La Rose Suite NT$ 100,000 Charles V Suite NT$ 150,000(All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English,Chinese, Japanese RESTAURANTS: La Rotisserie, Le Palais, Le Thé, Le BarSPECIAL FEATURES:Gym, business center, ballroom and function rooms, VIP salon, wireless internet, gift shop, room service, E-butler service, airport transportation service, located in an area of the city with heritage sites and tourist attractions.

PALAIS DE CHINE HOTEL君品酒店 Taipei 台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 35

ROOM RATES: Scenery Suite NT$ 6,600 Honey Suite NT$ 6,600 Fragrant Suite NT$ 8,600 Superior Suite NT$ 9,500 VIP Suite NT$ 12,000(Prices above not including 10% Service Charge)

GENERAL MANAGER: Mr. Jen-Shing Chen

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:Chinese, English, Japanese

RESTAURANTS: Chinese, Café, Courtyard

SPECIAL FEATURES: Broadband Internet access in guestrooms, business center, Souvenir Shop, Gazebo, 1950’s dance hall, foot massage

ALISHAN HOUSE阿里山賓館 Chiayi嘉義

16 Sianglin Village, Alishan Township, Chiayi County, 605

6 0 5嘉義縣阿里山鄉香林村16號 ALISHAN Tel: 05.267.9811 Fax: 05.267.9596 TAIPEI Tel: 02.2563.5259 Fax: 02.2536.5563

E-mail: [email protected]

www.alishanhouse.com.tw

1, Alley 34, Lane 123, Sec. 6, Minquan E. Rd., Taipei City台北市民權東路六段1 2 3巷3 4弄1號

Tel: 02.2791.5678 Fax: 02.2796.2311 E-mail: [email protected]

FUSHIN HOTEL富信大飯店 Taipei 台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 72ROOM RATES: Superior Single NT$ 5,500+10% Superior Twin NT$ 6,000+10% Deluxe Single NT$ 6,000+10% Leader Suite NT$ 10,000+10% Executive Suite NT$ 15,000+10%

(Rooms on sale starting at NT$3,200)

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:Japanese, English, Chinese

SPECIAL FEATURES: Café 83 Fusion Restaurant, City View Lounge, Multi- Functional Meeting Rooms, Gym, Sauna. , Multi- Function Shower, Multi- Function Shower Room with, Mas-sage Function (Suite) , 32”TV/DVD Player, ADSL Modem, Fax Machine Rental

83, Roosevelt Rd. Sec. 4, Da’an District,Taipei City 10673

1 0 6 7 3台北市大安區羅斯福路四段8 3號

Tel: 886.2.8369.2858 E-mail: [email protected]

www.leaderhotel.com.tw

TAIPEI LEADER HOTEL立德台大尊賢會館 Taipei台北

NO. OF ROOMS: 79

ROOM RATES: Standard Room NT$ 4,000 Superior Twin NT$ 4,200 Superior Triple NT$ 4,800 Superior Double Twin NT$ 5,600 Superior Suite NT$ 6,000 Classic Suite NT$ 10,000

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: Chinese, English, Japanese

RESTAURANTS:Chinese, Western, and Inter-national cuisine, afternoon tea

SPECIAL FEATURES:1/2F public area with unlimited Internet access, broadband Internet access in guestrooms, notebooks available at meeting room, free self-help coffee and tea, free parking, central location (5-min. walk to railway station), pick-up service, projector and screen available at conference room, newspa-pers and magazines, LCD screen TV-sets

139 Guolian 5th Rd., Hualien City, 970970 花蓮市國聯五路139號

Tel: 03.835.9966 Fax: 03.835.9977 Reservation: 03.833.6066

E-mail: [email protected]

www.classichotel.com.tw

HUALIEN CITY CLASSIC RESORT HOTEL花蓮經典假日飯店 Hualien 花蓮

NO. OF ROOMS: 153

ROOM RATES: Superior Room NT$ 3,800 Classic Room NT$ 4,600 Deluxe Room NT$ 6,800 Theme Room NT$ 6,800 Azure Suite NT$ 12,000 DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: Chinese, English, Japanese

RESTAURANTS:Taiwanese/Hakka cuisine, brunch, Western cuisine

SPECIAL FEATURES:Guestrooms with floor-to-ceiling windows, views of Pacific Ocean or Central Mountain Range, multifunctional public space, Azure Club, gym, pet hotel, KTV, board game and computer game room, located in Hualien City center, close to snack food and shopping streets

590 Zhongzheng Rd., Hualien City, 970970 花蓮市中正路590號

Tel: 03.833.6686 Fax: 03.3.832.3569 www.azurehotel.com.tw

AZURE HOTEL花蓮藍天麗池飯店Hualien花蓮

NO. OF ROOMS: 90ROOM RATES: Business Single Room NT$ 3,900 Deluxe Single Room NT$ 4,100 Deluxe Twin Room NT$ 4,500 Business Suite NT$ 5,600 Deluxe Suite NT$ 6,800 (All rates are subject to 10% service charge)

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK: English, Chinese, Japanese

RESTAURANT: Breakfast Lounge

SPECIAL FEATURES: Located in the center of the city, spacious rooms with wide views, 24H self-service business center, free Internet access, gym, multifunc-tional meeting and banquet rooms, coin laundry, free indoor parking, Tainan Railway Station and shuttle-bus stop for High Speed Rail close by, beside major university campus with century-old trees and jogging opportunity.

2, Daxue Rd., Tainan City 701

台南市大學路2號

Tel: 06.275.8999 Fax: 06.209.3567

www.zendasuites.com.tw

ZENDA SUITES成大會館 Tainan 台南

Edison Travel Service specializes in Taiwan toursand offers cheaper hotel room rates and car rental services with drivers .Edison welcomes contact with other travelservices around the world.

362 Jiuru (Chiu Ju) 2nd Rd., Sanmin District, Kaohsiung City, 80745

8 0 74 5 高雄市三民區九如二路3 6 2號

Tel: 07.311.9906 Fax: 07.311.9591E-mail: [email protected]

www.kingstown-hotel.com.tw

NO. OF ROOMS: 150

ROOM RATES: Business Single Room NT$ 2,640 Deluxe Single Room NT$ 3,080 Business Twin Room NT$ 3,080 Family Twin Room NT$ 4,400

( Prices above including 10% Service Charge )

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:Chinese, English, Japanese

RESTAURANTS:Chinese and Western style food, delicious buffet, cold dishes, fruit, and salad bar

SPECIAL FEATURES:Business center, non-smoking floors, wireless Internet access, 32” LCD TVs, newspaper, free parking, tourist map, currency exchange

KING’S TOWN HOTEL京城大飯店 Kaohsiung 高雄

NO. OF ROOMS: 100

ROOM RATES: Superior Room NT$ 5,500 Executive Room NT$ 5,900 Deluxe Room NT$ 6,200 Junior Suite NT$ 6,800 Fullerton Room NT$ 7,100 VIP Suite NT$ 8,100 Presidential Suite NT$ 19,000

(above rates not including 10% service charge; for discount offers, please call hotel or visit our website)

DESK PERSONNEL SPEAK:English, Japanese, Chinese

SPECIAL FEATURES: Close to Taipei 101 com-mercial area; 1 minute on foot to MRT Daan Station; free coffee and handmade cookies in lobby; free wireless Internet access; gym; sauna; business center; valet parking; com-plimentary Chinese/Western buffet breakfast; welcome fruit basket and mineral water.

41, Sec. 2, Fuxing S. Rd., Taipei City 106(near junction with Xinyi Rd.)

1 0 6台北市復興南路2段41號(信義路口)

Tel: 02.2703.1234 Fax: 02.2705.6161E-mail: [email protected]

www.taipeifullerton.com.tw

TAIPEI FULLERTON – FU-XING SOUTH台北馥敦-復南館Taipei台北

I S S N : 1 8 1 7 7 9 6 4

200 NTDG P N : 2 0 0 9 3 0 5 4 7 5

Participants of the annual Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage

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Religious objects used during traditional ceremonies

Funny looking characters are part most religious processions in Taiwan

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Inside Qingshui Chaoxing Temple, an important temple dedicated to Mazu

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The ritual fire-walking is part of the Baosheng Dadi birthday celebrations

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Praying in front of religious icons with burning joss sticks in hand is a common sight in local temples

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f ireworks over Taipei’s Baoan Temple during the Baosheng Dadi birthday celebrations

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