Totnes Archers Information Booklet
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Totnes ArchersInformation Booklet
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IndexTitle Page
Club Contacts 3
A Brief History of Totnes Archers 3
Types of Archery 3 Types of Bow 4
Basic Equipment 4
Safety 6
Helpful Reminders 8
Etiquette 8
Choosing the Bow 9
Choosing Arrows 10
Bow Set Up 10
Competitions 11
Classifications and Handicap 11
Archery GB Rounds 11
FITA Rounds 11
Table of Archery GB Rounds 12
Table of FITA Rounds 13
Guide to filling out a Score Card 15
Basic Steps in Archery Stance 16Finger Placement 16Bow Hand Placement 16Extending the Bow Arm 16Drawing the Bow 16Anchoring 17Aiming 17Release 17Follow Through 17
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Glossary of Archery Terms 18
Club Contacts
Club email address [email protected] Contact names Steve and Jacqui Wakeley
CoachesSteve Wakeley Jacqui Wakeley Harry Wakeley
Website
We are in the process of making a website and anyone wishing to help please contact Steve or Jacqui.
A Brief History of Totnes Archers – a Target Archery Club
Totnes Archers was formed on 14th May, 2012 by Steve and Jacqui Wakeley after much consultation with Miss Carly Perring, Head of Physical Education at KEVICC, Totnes.
Funding for the club to buy essential equipment like bosses, safety net, target faces, shooting equipment for beginners etc. came from a grant from Archery GB, our governing body amounting to £800.00. We also received a grant from Sport England for the sum of £4042.00. This money bought the equipment we are using today.
At our first session, held in the Gymnasium, we had 16 novice archers attend and numbers now average around 15, even through the summer break. Within a couple of weeks of starting the club we had requests from local scouts and guides asking if we could organise Have A Go sessions so they could try archery. We were also contacted by Devon and Cornwall Archery Society asking if we would host a Level 1 coaching course in December, 2012 and training sessions for the County squad over the winter.
We wanted to expand our Junior club into a community club within the first year as many of the parents have expressed an interest in archery.
The club for the wider community had its first session in March 2013.
Types of Archery
Target.We are a target archery club which means we shoot at targets set up at different distances depending on gender, age, ability and weather.
Field.This is shot primarily in woods at paper targets, pictures of animals and 3D models of animals. In some rounds the distances are known, some unknown and others mixed. This is the closest to hunting with a bow we can get in this country, as bow hunting is illegal.28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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Clout.Clout originated from the practise done by archers to hit an enemy in battle. Today’s competition involves shooting arrows at a flag set at 180 yards for men, 140 yards for women and lesser distances for juniors. This is a form of archery where arrows are deliberately shot into the ground.
Flight.This form of archery is to shoot an arrow the furthest. To get anywhere in this, specialist bows and arrows are needed and a very long range.
These are the main types of archery but there are a few more mentioned below.
Popinjay.A strange form of archery where arrows are shot upwards to hit targets which represent birds. This form of archery is popular in Belgium, say no more!
Archery Darts.This is played as a game on a dartboard target face; it is scored the same way as darts but shot with arrows.
Archery Golf.See above but get permission from the golf club first!There are other forms of archery but the above are the mains types.
Types of Bow
The three mains types of bow used are the longbow, recurve and compound.
Longbow.The traditional bow made traditionally from yew, using the section of the tree to utilise the sapwood and the heartwood.Today’s longbows are usually made from laminates of different woods to use the different characteristics of compression and stretching obtained from yew.A longbow must have a cross section in the shape of a D and horn nocks, otherwise is will be classed as another type of bow – a flat bow.
Recurve.This is the bow that most people start with. Within this discipline there are classes of recurve archery. The most common is the use of a sight along with other add-on bits and pieces to help the archer. A form which is growing in popularity is barebow shooting, where we throw away the sight and all the other knick-knacks and use this as an excuse for missing. Barebow is further broken down into traditional for which wooden arrows are used with a fixed face reference point.
Compound.This is the type of bow that most people are scared of technically!As this is very much the high tech end of archery, most compound archers use everything available to shoot it, however there is a limited class of compound archery where the fingers are used to pull back and release the string. Most compound archers use a release aid to release the string.28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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There are many other types of bow such as the Mongolian, the one piece hunting bow etc.
Basic Equipment
Please seek advice from an experienced archer before you purchase a bow, as ‘mistakes’ can be both expensive and dangerous to your health.
BowThe type of bow that you get depends on what your preference is. See above for the types.
ArrowsThere are a lot of arrows on the market from the very cheap to the very expensive. Decide what you want to use the arrows for, i.e. indoors or outdoors. Then work out what size of arrow you need and finally what you can afford. The most expensive arrows do not mean that they go where you want them to!!
Finger TabThere are various types available depending on your preference. Your tab should fit well in order to allow a smooth release and protect your fingers. One of the most popular and commonly used is the platform tab.
SlingThese are used with recurve and compound bows and allow the bow to move forward and away from the bow hand when the string is released. Some slings are fixed to the wrist and are detachable from the bow, whilst others are permanently fixed to the bow.
StringerThis enables you to string your bow safely and easily. Again there is a variety available. You do not need a stringer with a compound bow as these are permanently strung.
BracerAgain there is a variety available but comfort and protection should be thought about when purchasing any equipment.
Bracing Height GaugeThe gap between the bow and the string is very important and an accurate measurement is needed to provide consistency. The gauge is not too expensive to purchase – but a short ruler would suffice.
QuiverAgain there is a wide choice available and this is a personal choice. Pockets on the front are always useful, as are the clip rings.
Long RodLong rods are used for stabilisation, they prevent the bow from kicking upwards when the string is released – this would interfere with the flight of the arrow. Again there are many to choose from but there are a few things to consider when purchasing a long rod. They 28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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do not need to be of a particular length or weight so long as they do the job. The most popular ones are made from Aluminium or Carbon fibre. The majority have attachable weights.
Bow StandAgain the choice is mind blowing, from basic stands to the Rolls Royce of stands. The choice is yours.
Pressure ButtonThis piece of equipment is used in conjunction with the arrow rest to ensure that the arrow sits at the same distance from the riser each and every time you load the bow. The setting needs to be adjusted to suit the archer and the type of arrow being used.
Arrow RestThis is what it sounds like. A device to your arrow rests on; however there are many different types available from the basic rest to the more advanced with magnets and multiple adjustments.
Bow BagThen you will need something to keep it in. Again there is a wide choice available from the basic box to the luxury item. The choice is yours.
There are, of course, other items that you may find useful and no doubt some that you will find invaluable but these are a few suggestions.
Please remember to ask an experienced archer before you purchase anything.
There is also a choice of suppliers that you can deal with and, as with most things; it pays to shop around to get the best bargain. A few you might like to try Quick’s, targetcraftarchery.com, Bow Sports, Merlin Archery, Wales Archery and of course good old Ebay!
When you become a member of Archery GB (formerly known as GNAS - Grand National Archery Society) you get a quarterly magazine that is very useful. Take some time to read it. The club also has some copies if you want to have a look. It is full of tips and advice, and also has adverts for archery suppliers. The internet is also a good place for sourcing equipment.
Safety information
Below are a few rules that must be obeyed for your safety and the safety of your fellow archers.
Whistle Commands
One Blast - Commence shooting, start of an end.
Three Blasts - Finish shooting, end of an end, and collect arrows.
Three or more long and short blasts - End of session, pack away personal and club equipment.
Verbal Command
“FAST” - STOP SHOOTING IMMEDIATELY. This command means that there is a 28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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danger to a person or animal and therefore all activities MUST cease immediately. It is the responsibility of ALL persons present to watch for danger and give warning by shouting “FAST”. On hearing “FAST” an archer must not shoot an arrow and if at full draw you should ‘come
down’ and remove the arrow from the string and return it to the quiver. Come Down - Means to relax from full draw, without releasing the arrow, and point the bow towards the ground. You would ‘Come Down’ either as a result of FAST or request of another archer. The reason for the request will then be given – perhaps there is a danger to someone, or an archer is standing poorly, or and arrow has come off the rest.Safety
Obey all the commands of the Field Captain. (The person in’charge’) Never put a bow and arrow together unless you are on the shooting line AND one whistle blast has
been sounded. Never cross the shooting line unless you hear three whistle blasts. Never ‘Dry loose’ a bow (draw back the string to full draw and release without an arrow). Never draw a bow unless facing towards the target and with no one in front of you. Do not walk behind an archer when they are at full draw. Always ensure that any clothing, jewellery or hair will not foul on the equipment. Always warm up correctly. If any archer shouts ‘FAST’ return any unshot arrows immediately to your quiver, lower your bow
and stand back from the shooting line. Always use an arm brace and sling when shooting, tabs are recommended for prolonged shooting. Never shoot directly upwards.
If in doubt – ask. These rules are for your safety and the safety of your fellow archers.
Bows and arrows on their own are fairly safe, put together and used in the wrong context they can be very dangerous. Remember they are a weapon.
Before Shooting
As an archer you should always ensure that you know the ground layout during any session. Make note of and observe:-
Shooting line. Waiting line. Tent line (Outdoors – mainly at competitions).
You should also be aware that Warning notices are in place. All targets are properly pegged down. When shooting outdoors watch out for any dangers that may impede shooting, i.e. stray dogs,
children etc.
EVERYONE AT AN ARCHERY SESSION IS RESPONSIBLE FOR SAFETY: DON’T LEAVE IT TO SOMEONE ELSE TO OBSERVE SAFETY.
As an archer you should always ensure that your equipment is sound.28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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Check all equipment including bows, strings, arrows, nocks, fletchings, etc. Any damaged equipment should not be used and should be put to one side for repair or thrown away if beyond repair.
Check strings and servings are not frayed. Check nocks are sound. Check arrows are long enough and fletchings are secure, arrows should stay on the string by its own
weight. Ensure a bow is correctly braced. Ensure clothing/jewellery is appropriate and not going to foul the string. Ensure the meaning of “FAST” is understood.
During Shooting
Whilst shooting you should Progress to the shooting line when told. Commence shooting only when told, either by whistle, one blast or verbal command. When arrows shot step back off the shooting line without disturbing other archers. When not shooting archers must stay behind the waiting line. Not cross the shooting line until the signal to do so is given, by whistle, two blasts or verbal
command. Always react to the command FAST or several whistle blasts no matter who gives the command.
After Shooting
When all archers have shot you should Wait until you hear two whistles to collect your arrows Walk, don’t run to the target. Watch out for arrow that have fallen short of the target and are on the ground in front of the target. Take care to remove arrows correctly without bending or twisting. Make sure no-one is standing behind you when you draw your arrows from the target. Don’t stand behind someone who is drawing arrows. Ensure arrows that are stuck in the ground are pulled out correctly, directly opposite to the direction
they went into the ground. All arrows must be accounted for-if an arrow cannot be found, it must be reported to the person in
charge of shooting. This is very important as the shooting field is used by many others and if the arrow is found by accident it could cause an injury. This also applies to other equipment
such as target pins or target boss securing nails, etc. When returning to the shooting line with your arrows always carry then either in a quiver or in your
hand with the points facing down.THESE RULES ARE TO BE OBSERVED, NOT TO BE BENT OR BROKEN FOR THE SAKE OF YOURS AND OTHERS SAFETY.
The Following Safety Rules must Be Strictly Observed.
NEVER EVER POINT A LOADED BOW AT ANOTHER PERSON OR ANIMAL
A bow with an arrow on the string must NEVER be drawn anywhere except on the shooting line only in the direction of the target and then only if the field is clear.
Helpful Reminders28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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Stand up straight when shooting Feet should be shoulder width apart Shoulders should be parallel to the floor Elbows should be in line with shoulders Aim and continue to aim after the arrow has left the bow Teeth should be together The only thing that moves is your drawing arm when you release the arrow Do not drop your bow arm until the arrow hits the target Do not look for your arrow after you release
Etiquette
A good archer does not Talk in a loud voice whilst others are shooting Talk to another archer who prefers to be silent Offer advice unless asked Exclaim on the shooting line, for themselves or others, in joy or disgust Walk off the shooting line while a neighbour is at full draw. Touch another archer’s equipment without their permission. Walk up and down the line comparing scores. Shoot distances beyond their capability, continually missing and holding up shooting. Takes into account other archers shooting on the same target when positioning his foot markers, and
allows sufficient space for them. Disturb people with loud mobile phone ringtones or speaking on the phone on or around the
shooting line. Smoke near the shooting or waiting line. Leave litter on the archery ground.
A good archer always Helps to put out the equipment and put it away. Pays to replace another's arrow damaged through their carelessness.
Etiquette when scoring (GNAS Rules appendix A)
A good archer:
Does not go behind the target to retrieve arrows before the scores have been taken.
When calling scores, does so in groups of three, and in descending order, for example, 'X-10-9' pause '9-8-7'
While calling scores, points to each arrow as it is called, without touching the arrow or target face (106/b).
Does not touch any arrow or the target face until all arrow values have been recorded and checked.
When required to do so, takes their turn at scoring.
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Only withdraws the arrows of others if this has been agreed by them.
At the end of the round thanks the Target Captain for the work done by them.
Choosing the Bow
This is a very important step in archery. If you choose correctly you will be able to use your bow with comfort and confidence. However should you choose incorrectly you risk the danger if injuring joints and muscles. Please ask for advice from an experienced archer before you purchase your bow as mistakes can be costly and archery related injuries are very easy to avoid.
Firstly what bow do you want to shoot? Long bow, flat bow, recurves and compound bow are the most popular choices. Your choice could be influence by many factors, i.e. do you want to be a competitions archer, a recreational archer or a field archer? Once you have chosen the ‘type’ of archery you wish to pursue then you choose the type of equipment best suited to your needs.
Although a high poundage bow enables the archer to shoot using greater force within the arrow, if you use a poundage of bow that is too great you risk damaging your body by overstressing muscles and joints. The idea of archery is to be able to shoot accurately by replicating your technique time after time. For example a 20lb bow will reach a target set at 50 yards, and so will a bow of 50lb. However you would be able to shoot the lower poundage bow all day accurately and comfortably, whereas with the higher poundage bow, you would begin to tire quickly and therefore loose accuracy.
As a general rule adult archers with average strength, typically begin with a bow of between 20 -26lb draw weight. Stronger archers may use between 26 – 30lb. It is recommended that younger archers start at 14 – 20lb draw weight.
Bows also come in different lengths, from 54 – 70 inches. The length of the bow is determined by the length of the draw and, to a certain extent, the height of the archer. The draw length is the distance from chin to tip of the index finger on the bow hand. Remember the shorter the draw, the shorter the bow.
Draw Length Bow Length20” – 24” 54” 24” – 26” 64” 25” – 26” 66”27” – 28” 68”
29” or more 70”
Choosing the arrows
Using of the correct length is critical. Drawing an arrow past the arrow rest can be extremely dangerous. On the other hand, an arrow that is too long does not fly well.
Paying the most for your bow does not mean that you will be an excellent archer, or get the best results. The only way to be the best is to practice and ask for advice if you are having difficulties or equipment issues.
Bow Set up
Assembling your bow28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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Step One. Place the limb in the correct pocket the correct way round. The limb should curve away from you if you are holding the riser towards the target. As a general rule, the maker’s logo normally faces the target on the upper limb, and the poundage of the bow is on the lower limb.
Step Two. Put the limb into the riser. Secure the limb with the thumb screw to finger tightness. On more modern bows there are international limb fittings. These do away with the thumb screw and are held in place by sliding the limb into the locating channel.
Step Three. Putting on the string. The string goes on the top of the bow first as this is the larger loop on the end of the string and is pushed past the nock and along the limb. The other end of the string is placed on the nock at the bottom of the bow. Using a stringer, place the saddle, or top, end over the limb so it rests with the grip side down, past the string, about one third of the way down the limb. Next place the shoe, or bottom of the slinger on the lower limb nock. Holding the handle of the bow, place your foot on the stringer on the ground. Place your thumb on the saddle of the stringer and gently pull the handle up towards you. The grip on the slinger will hold the stringer in place and then you can gently put the top of the string around the nock. Remove the stringer, shoe first and then check that the string is sat in the
grooves on the back of the bow.
When assembled correctly your bow should look like this.
Competitions
During the summer months somewhere in Devon and Cornwall there is an outdoor competition and during
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the winter there is a growing number of indoor competitions. These competitions are open to all, from the beginner to the archer that has been around for years. Taking part in a competition is a good way to meet other archers and learn from them. There are many different rounds with different distances and number of arrows shot. Most competitions are advertised on the notice board at the club or on the DCAS website, with downloadable entry forms.
Classification and Handicap
As in most sports there are classifications to help the archer gauge their progress. This is done by giving the Club Records Officer your scores for a particular round either at a competition or on a Club Target Day. The system of outdoor classification is that all archers start as novices until three scores are put in. Depending what the scores are will give that archer a classification from 3rd class to the highest of Grand Master Bowman. The indoor system is very similar but classifications are from H to A. Remember three scores of the higher classification must be put in. Scores for the higher classification must be shot at Record Status shoots. Scores can also be submitted to our Records Officer (Steve) .
Archery GB Rounds
This chart shows the Archery GB outdoor target competition distance and the types of shooting rounds currently used. It looks a little daunting and has been included for you reference. As you become a more competent archer these distances are more easily reached.
Archery GB or Imperial are shot at distances measured in yards to a maximum of 100 yards for men and 80 yards for ladies, junior’s distances are shorter. Scoring is using 5 zone scoring.
White Scores 1Blacks Scores 3Blue Score 5Red Scores 7Gold Scores 9
FITA Rounds
FITA stands for Fédération Internationale de Tir L’Arc.Rounds are measured in meters, maximum 90meters for men, 70 meters for ladies and Juniors shorter again. Scoring is using 10 zone scoring.
Outside White Scores 1 Outer Red Scores 7 Inner White Scores 2 Inner Red Scores 8Outer Black Scores 3 Outer Gold Scores 9Inner Black Scores 4 Inner Gold Scores 10Outer Blue Scores 5Inner Blue Scores 6
Outdoor – Archery GB Rounds (5 Zone Scoring)Outdoor – Archery GB Rounds (5 Zone Scoring)Outdoor – Archery GB Rounds (5 Zone Scoring)Outdoor – Archery GB Rounds (5 Zone Scoring)Outdoor – Archery GB Rounds (5 Zone Scoring)Outdoor – Archery GB Rounds (5 Zone Scoring)Outdoor – Archery GB Rounds (5 Zone Scoring)Outdoor – Archery GB Rounds (5 Zone Scoring)Outdoor – Archery GB Rounds (5 Zone Scoring)
Round
122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows
Round 100yd 80yd 60yd 50yd 40yd 30yd 20yd 10ydYork 6 4 2 Hereford/Bristol I 6 4 2
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Bristol II 6 4 2 Bristol III 6 4 2 Bristol IV 6 4 2 Bristol V * 6 4 2St George 3 3 3 Albion 3 3 3 Windsor 3 3 3 Short Windsor 3 3 3 Junior Windsor 3 3 3 New Western 4 4 Long Western 4 4 Western 4 4 Short Western 4 4 Junior Western 4 4 Short Junior Western 4 4 American 2.5 2.5 2.5 St Nicholas 4 3 New National 4 2 Long National 4 2 National 4 2 Short National 4 2 Junior National 4 2 Short Junior National 4 2 New Warwick 2 2 Long Warwick 2 2 Warwick 2 2 Short Warwick 2 2 Junior Warwick 2 2 Short Junior Warwick 2 2
Rounds marked * are for Juniors under 9 years of age onlyRounds marked * are for Juniors under 9 years of age onlyRounds marked * are for Juniors under 9 years of age onlyRounds marked * are for Juniors under 9 years of age onlyRounds marked * are for Juniors under 9 years of age onlyRounds marked * are for Juniors under 9 years of age onlyRounds marked * are for Juniors under 9 years of age onlyRounds marked * are for Juniors under 9 years of age only
Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Outdoor - Metric Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)
Round122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows122cm Face - dozens of arrows 80cm Face - dozens of arrows 80cm Face - dozens of arrows 80cm Face - dozens of arrows 80cm Face - dozens of arrows 80cm Face - dozens of arrows 80cm Face - dozens of arrows
Round 90mt 70mt 60mt 50mt 40mt 30mt 20mt 50mt 40mt 30mt 20mt 15mt 10mtFITA (Gents) 3 3 3 3 FITA (Ladies) 3 3 3 3 Metric II 3 3 3 3 28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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Metric III 3 3 3 3 Metric IV 3 3 3 3Metric V* 3 3 3 3Half FITA (Gents) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Half FITA (Ladies) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Half Metric II 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Half Metric III 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Half Metric IV 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5Half Metric V* 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5Long Metric (Gents) 3 3 Long Metric (Ladies) 3 3 Long Metric II 3 3 Long Metric III 3 Long Met4ric IV 3 3 Long Metric V* 3 3 Short Metric I 3 3 Short Metric II 3 3 Short Metric III 3 3 Short Metric IV 3 3Short Metric V* 3 3FITA Standard Bow 3 3
The table below shows indoor shooting rounds and they are scored using the ten zone scoring apart from the special rounds at the right hand side of the table.
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Ten Zone Scoring Target Face Worcester Target Face
Indoor Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Indoor Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Indoor Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Indoor Rounds (10 Zone Scoring)Indoor Rounds (10 Zone Scoring) Indoor Rounds - Special Indoor Rounds - Special Indoor Rounds - Special Indoor Rounds - Special Indoor Rounds - Special Indoor Rounds - Special Indoor Rounds - Special
Round40cm Face 60cm Face60cm Face 80cm Face RoundRound
Round 18mt 20yd 25yd 30ydWorcesterWorcester
5doz at 20yd - 40.64 special 5doz at 20yd - 40.64 special 5doz at 20yd - 40.64 special 5doz at 20yd - 40.64 special 5doz at 20yd - 40.64 special FITA 18m 5 WorcesterWorcester face scoring 5, 4, 3, 2, 1face scoring 5, 4, 3, 2, 1face scoring 5, 4, 3, 2, 1face scoring 5, 4, 3, 2, 1face scoring 5, 4, 3, 2, 1FITA 25m 5
WorcesterWorcester
outwards from centre whiteoutwards from centre whiteoutwards from centre whiteoutwards from centre whiteoutwards from centre whiteCombined FITA 5 5
VegasVegas5 Dozen at 18mt - special face5 Dozen at 18mt - special face5 Dozen at 18mt - special face5 Dozen at 18mt - special face5 Dozen at 18mt - special face
Bray I 2.5 VegasVegas scoring 10, 9, 8, 7, 6 outwardsscoring 10, 9, 8, 7, 6 outwardsscoring 10, 9, 8, 7, 6 outwardsscoring 10, 9, 8, 7, 6 outwardsscoring 10, 9, 8, 7, 6 outwardsBray II 2.5
VegasVegas
from inner goldfrom inner goldfrom inner goldfrom inner goldfrom inner goldPortsmouth 5 Stafford 6
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This arrow missed the target but you still have to record the miss.
Guide to filling out a Score Card
End Total for six arrows
End Total for six arrows
Total number of Hits on target
Total Score of the two end totals
Number of arrows landed in the Gold (10)
Running Total
et et H S G R/T10 9 8 8 6 4 45 6 4 2 7 6 M 25 11 70 1 70
1 - Stance:Put the tip of your toes against an imaginary straight line towards the
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If an arrow cuts the line, then take the higher score
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centre of the targetPut your feet on both sides of the linePut your feet about shoulder's width apartTry and relax
2 - Finger Placement:Place your fingers in such a way, that you hold the string with your index
finger above the nock and middle and ring finger under the nockHook the string between first and second joint. Make sure to maintain a
deep hook
3 - Bow hand placementThe pressure of the bow should be distributed along the pressure lineRelax your fingers. The back of your hand should make an angle of 45
degreesThe tips of thumb and index finger are may touch each other in a relaxed
way
4 - Extending the bow armBring the bow arm to shoulder heightThe elbow of the bow arm is turned away from the string
5 - Drawing the bowDraw the string along the bow arm in a straight horizontal line to the anchor
pointDraw with your back muscles, moving the shoulder blades towards each otherStand straight up and relaxedKeep both shoulders as low as possible
6 - AnchoringThe string should touch the middle of the chinThe index finger is placed under the chinKeep your teeth together
7 - AimingAiming is done with the dominant eye. Shut the other eye
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Keep the sight at the targetKeep the string a little left of the sight
8 - ReleaseKeep pulling the shoulder blades towards each other, while relaxing the
fingers of the draw handA relaxed bow hand will automatically move backwardsRelax your bow hand. Let the bow drop
9 - Follow-ThroughThe draw hand should be relaxed and near or behind your earKeep aiming until after the arrow hits the target
Glossary of TermsAnchor – See Reference Point.Archer – A person who shoots a bow and arrow.Archers Paradox – Initial stages of flexing of the arrow from the loose as it accelerates past the bow.Archery GB – British governing body (formerly known as GNAS – Grand National Archery Society)Arm-guard - See bracer.Arrow – A projectile shot from a bow.Arrow Rest – A device on which the arrow rests during the draw, located just above the handle.Back (of Bow) – The face of the bow that is on the opposite side to the string.Bare shaft - An arrow without fletchings.Barebow - A bow with no sight or aiming devices.Basic Technique – The systematic method of shooting used in teaching and coaching.Belly (of Bow) – The face f the bow which is on the same side of the string.Boss - Straw or foam base to which the target face is fixed.Bouncer (Bounce-out) - An arrow which strikes the target and then falls to the ground.Bow Arm – The arm that corresponds to the bow hand.
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Bow Hand – The hand in which the bow is supported.Bow String – The cord or string which is stretched between the nocks when the bow is braced and on which the arrow is placed for shooting.Bow-scale - Device used to measure the draw-weight of a bowBow-square - Device used to measure bracing height and knocking-point position.Bow Window – The section of the riser just above the handle which is removed to allow the arrow rest nearer the centre line of the bow.Bowyer – A maker of bows.Brace Height - Distance between string and pivot–point of the bow (or pressure button).Bracer - Protective arm covering for bow-arm. Usually plastic, metal or leather.Butt - See BossButton - Spring-loaded button used to absorb some of the sideways force of the arrow after release.Cam - Eccentric pulley found on compound bows.Cast – The term used to describe the measured ability of a bow to project an arrow.Chest-guard - Protective clothing used to prevent string catching on clothes or body.Classification – A system of grading an archer’s ability and achievement.Clicker - Metal or plastic device. Produces audible click when arrow is at full draw.Coach – A tutor or teacher of sporting activities.Cock Feather – The fletching that is at right angles to the slot in the arrow nock, often a different colour to the other fletchings on the arrow.Composite Bow – A bow whose limbs are made up from several laminate materials glued together.Compound Bow – A bow with enhanced efficiency by the use of eccentric wheels or cams over which cables are attached to the string.Creeping – Allowing the arrow to move forward from full-draw before being loosed.D.C.A.S. – Devon and Cornwall Archery Society (County Society)Dominant Eye – The eye which is preferred by the archer for aiming.Draw - Pulling the bowstring, the full length of the arrow, ready to shoot.Draw Fingers – Normally the first three fingers of the hand, used to pull the string to full draw.Draw length - The distance between the string and the pivot point at full draw.Draw-weight - Weight held by archer at full draw.End A specified number of arrows (usually 3 or 6) shot between scoring.F.I.T.A. – Fédération Internationale de Tir L’Arc. The international governing body for archery.Face – see target face.Fast – Warning cry to stop shooting in an emergency.Field Archery - Archery shot in wooded course.Field Captain - Controls the safe shooting along all or part of the range, responsible to the Judge.Finger Tab – Protection worn on the draw hand fingers, to protect fingers and for consistency of release.Fishtailing - Movement of arrow from side to side during flight.Fistmele - Archaic term referring to the Bracing height of the bow (which was often measured by using a fist with the thumb extended)Fletching - The feathers or coloured plastic “wings” attached towards the rear of an arrow.Fletching Jig - Device used to hold arrow and fletchings to ensure consistent positioning while the glue is drying.Foot marker - Device used on the ground to ensure consistent foot position.F.O.C. - Front of centre – the balance point of the arrow when the point is fitted.Freestyle – This was known as ‘Olympic Style’. Using a recurve bow with the use of a sight, draw length check, pressure button and stabilisers being permitted.GMB – Grand Master Bowman, the highest classification of Archery GB Gap shooting - Using the distance between the arrow and the target as an elevation gauge.28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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G.N.A.S. – Grand National Archery Society (now known as Archery GB)Gold - Centre of the target (it is often coloured yellow).Grip - Where hand is placed on riser, this is often plastic or wooden.Ground Quiver – Used in target archery. A device that is stuck into the ground to store arrows.Group – A cluster of arrows shot close together.G.W.A.S. – Grand Western Archery Society (Regional Society). Handicap – A system of allowances for scores to be adjusted, theoretically bringing. archers of varying standards to an equal result.Handle – The part of the bow that is held in the hand.Hanger – An arrow that does not penetrate into the boss but hangs down from the face.Judge – The person responsible for the application of the rules of shooting at a tournament.Kisser Button - Small plastic device attached to the string for alignment with mouth at full draw.Lady Paramount – Traditionally appointed to preside at competitions as the supreme arbiter (Archery GB only) and to present the awards and prizes.Laminations – Thin strips of material used for making bow limbs, mainly wood, plastic, carbon fibre or fibreglassLimbs - The energy-storing portion of the bow above and below the riser.Line Captain - Controls the safe shooting at a club.Longbow - Single-piece bow with horn nocks and a D shaped profile used for traditional archery.Loop - Portion of the string which is strung around the limb tip.Loose - See release.MB – Master Bowman, the second highest classification of Archery GBNib - See Point.Nock - The slot in the end of an arrow which is used for locating it onto the bow string.
The grooves in the end of the bow limbs into which the string is fitted.To locate the arrow onto the string.
Nocking Point - Position on the string at which the nock is located.Olympic Style – See Freestyle.Over-Bowed – This term is used to indicate the instance where the draw weight of the bow is more than the individual archer can draw and shoot with any degree of comfort and efficiency.Over-Braced – The bow being braced to a greater height than that which efficient.Over-Draw – To draw the pile of the arrow beyond the arrow rest.Paradox- (archer’s paradox) A seemingly contradictory statement that may nonetheless be true. "Logic" dictates that a straight and balanced arrow must be shot straight at a target in order to hit it. In reality, the arrow must be aimed OFF of the target by a traditional archer in order to hit the target, due to the way the string reacts to the fingers on release.Peak draw-weight - Maximum weight held by archer whilst drawing the bow.Perfect End – To obtain a maximum score for an end of six arrows.Petticoat – The outer edge of a target for which there is no score.Pile - See Point.Pin Hole – The exact centre if the target; also known as the Spider, and usually marked with a small cross.Pinching – Gripping the nock of an arrow between the fingers when drawing.Pivot-point - Position on grip farthest from the string.Point - The pointed metal device inserted at the tip of the arrow.Point of Aim – This is the point or object at which an archer aims, when they sight over the end if the arrow. It is also the method of shooting where the arrow is drawn back to the side of the face rather than to the bottom of the jaw line.Porpoising - Movement of arrow up and down during flight.Practice Bow – A bow of simple design and light draw weight, usually used for teaching beginners.28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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Pressure Button – See Button.Puller - Rubber mat used to protect hands and provide grip when pulling arrows.Quiver - usually worn around the waist, on the back or placed on the ground, used to hold arrows and other accessories.Recurve Bow - Bow with limbs which curve away from the archer.Reference Point - The place where the drawing hand positions itself on the face. It is usually under the chin or along side of the jaw bone.Release - The action of releasing the string.Release Aid – This is a device that is used to draw and release the bow string without the fingers doing the work. Mainly used with compound bows.Rest - A wire or plastic device on which the arrow sits before and during the draw.Riser - The rigid handle of the bow to which the limbs are attachedRounds – The designated number if arrows shot at a given distance.Serving - Protective wrapping of string material around string to prevent wear.Serving Tool – Small instrument used for serving strings.Shaft - The body of an arrow.Shooting Line – The line the archer stands astride whilst shooting.Shooting Glove – A partial glove with three fingers used to protect the fingers when shooting, usually used by long bow archers.Sighters – The arrows which are allowed to be shot at the start of a competition to allow for sight adjustment.Sight Window - See Window.Sling - Device to attach bow to archer’s bow-hand which restrains the bow from jumping out of hand whilst shooting.Spectator Line – A line 10 yards behind the shooting line.Spine - The stiffness of the arrow shaft.Stabiliser - Rod and weight combination attached to the bow to eliminate unwanted torque and vibration.String Walking - Used by barebow archers. Fingers moved up and down string according to target distance.Stringer - Device used to bend the limbs of a bow to allow the string to be attached.Synthetic Wax – A modern substance used on high performance bow strings to retain correct level of moisture within the threads.Tab - Protector for string-fingers to prevent chafing.Take Down – The type of bow that the limbs can be removed for transportation, or event o change the draw weight of the bow by changing the limbs.Target Captain – The person in charge of the conduct of the archers at the target, particularly when recording scores.Target Face – Is a cover marked with scoring zones placed over the target boss usually made of reinforced paper.Target Panic - Affliction where archer cannot hold the sight in the gold.Target Stand – A stand supporting the boss.Tiller - A measure of the balance of the two limbs.Toxophilite - Archer.Traditional Aiming – A shooting method of drawing the arrow back to a position where the holding hand is placed under the jaw bone, either using a side of front reference point.Trajectory - Curved flight of the arrow caused by the affect if gravity whilst the arrow is in flight.Tuning - Adjustment of the bow and arrow to provide most accurate and forgiving arrow flight.Under-Bowed – The situation where an archer has a bow that is too light in draw weight.Under-Draw – To not draw sufficient arrow length.Vane - See fletching.28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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Waiting Line – A line 5 yards behind the shooting line where archers wait while others are shooting.Wax – Bees wax is normally used to seal a bow string thus retaining the correct level of moisture within the threads. Also see Synthetic WaxWindage - Horizontal adjustment of a sight to compensate for wind-drift.Window - Recessed area of riser above the grip.Yew – The wood from which English long-bows are traditionally made.
And Finally – FUN – what you should have with Archery!
28/06/2015 Compiled by Jacqui Wakeley
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