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Summer 2011 may have
been a washout but it
didn’t stop entries for
our summer photo competi-
tion with Olympus from
flooding in.
With a record number of entries – over 650 for both the
under-16s and adult competi-
tions – selecting the 12
finalists was harder than ever,
while voting for the winners in
each category was a close-run
thing.
Katie MacDonald, from the
Isle of Skye, took top honours
for the adults with her picture,
Rockness, her ironic take on
the wet summer. Her prize is
an Olympus Tough TG-810
camera, worth £269.99.
Competition was fierce in
the under-16s category, with
some outstanding shots from
very talented youngsters. The
overall winner was 14-year-
old Lily Dellar, from Uckfield,
for her delightful picture, The
Rocks. She wins an Olympus
Tough TG-310 camera, worth£179.
With such a high quality
of entries, the judges also
decided to give a special
highly commended award in
each category. Congratula-
tions go to Lauren Owen,
from Redhill, for her Chasing
the Wind picture in the adult
section and to our youngest
entrant, six-year-old Sophie
Timms from Tonbridge, for
her Lonely Flower photo.
They both win an Olympus
VR-310 camera worth
£99.99.
Katie and Lily snap up our Olympus
photo competition prizes
Summingup our summer
in the frame nsummer photo competition results
Highly commended
n Katie MacDonald’swinning picture: Rockness
n Junior winnerLily Dellar’s photo:
The Rocks
n Chasing the Wind byLauren Owen
n The Olympus Tough TG-310 n The Olympus Tough TG-810
n Lonely Flower bySophie Timms, aged six
4 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
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The Czech Republic will pamper you, whether you come for your honeymoon or a romantic stay.
www.czechtourism.com
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loved onea journey
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6 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 20116 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
There’s only one way to experience California
if you really want to get into the West Coast
spirit – and that is by driving an open-top
sports car up the Pacific Coast Highway, the
Beach Boys and Eagles blaring out from the
stereo, surfers to your left, cool wind in your
hair and blue sky up above.
The PCH, as it is often shortened to, is officially the120-mile stretch of Highway 1 between Dana Point and
Oxnard in Southern California, taking in Los Angeles,
Malibu, Santa Monica and Santa Barbara. But to most
people, it applies to the entire near-500-mile length
between San Francisco and LA, or the 600 miles
between San Diego and San Francisco. You can
also take it up through Northern California
and on to the Canadian border, for a total
distance of 2,000 miles.
This long, snaking ribbon is far more
than a highway. It leads you on a voyage of
exploration right through California’s coastal
heartland, passing by much of the Golden Gate
State that visitors want to see.
Since my first visit to California 25 years ago, I
have been fortunate to have driven the scenic coastal
stretch between LA and San Francisco on a couple of
occasions as well as driving shorter sections many other
times.
Both times, it was in iconic American muscle cars: a
little red Corvette in the Nineties and, earlier this year, a
flame-red Ford Mustang. I even turned down a classic
Jag for the Corvette, and as I motored around LA and itsenvirons, I couldn’t resist a lazy drive along Santa
Monica Boulevard and West Hollywood’s Sunset Strip
with my shades and shorts on, the top down and one arm
draped over the door. Call me a poser, but I firmly
believe that when in Rome – or in this case, the laid-back
West Coast – you should emulate the locals.
memorableSome of my most memorable US moments have
happened along the PCH, none more so than when I
decided to photograph the stars’ hand and foot prints at
Mann’s Chinese Theatre in Hollywood after my Sunset
Strip drive and found what seemed a perfect parking
spot down a nearby side street. Having topped up the
meter and walked off, I turned round to see a
A road trip along California’s iconic coastal highway encapsulates the very essence of America’s
third-largest state. Peter Ellegard dons shorts and shades to explore
The long andwinding
road
getting to know ncalifornia
n Hollywood
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
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Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 7
policewoman taking a keen interest in the Corvette.
Returning to the car, I asked in my finest upper-crust
English accent: “Is there a problem, officer?” Unfortu-
nately, I had mistakenly parked in a red no-parking bay,
saving the car in the adjacent metered bay from a parking
ticket but earning one myself. Seeing my crestfallen
expression, the lady cop asked if the car was rented, and
when I said yes she reassured me I would be OK as the
rental companies never paid parking fines.
Seizing the moment, I asked if she would mind
posing with the car while writing the ticket so I could
take some souvenir photos. “Sure,” she beamed, and I
clicked away as she struck different poses until a coupleof curious Hell’s Angels bikers pulled up alongside.
Within seconds, they were in the photos as well, and I
ending up getting them to sit on the car’s bonnet with the
traffic cop lying across their arms, pen poised on the
ticket. Only in LA! And I never did have to pay the fine.
I had another brush with the law in California this year,
having done the LA-San Francisco drive in my Mustang
and traded it in for a nondescript Japanese saloon to drive
back down to Monterey for an overnight and a round of
golf on the famed Pebble Beach Links course.
With my return flight home from San Francisco that
evening, I put pedal to the metal on the coast road after my
round and caught the attention of a California Highway
Patrol officer, who sped after me with his motorbike lit up
like a Christmas tree. It was a fair cop: I had been doing
81mph in a 65mph zone. He told me I would get a speed-
ing ticket through the post, adding that had I been doing
75 I would have got away with a ticking off. But I didn’t
mind. I was still on a high from playing Pebble Beach. The
CHiPs officer can’t have ticketed many speeding motorists
wearing a smile as broad as mine. And, six months on, I
still haven’t received that ticket, either.
surf culture
The freeways are a quicker way of getting between
California’s coastal cities and key attractions, although
around LA they are often jammed solid. Driving the
Pacific Coast Highway needs time and patience, like
savouring an expensive wine. Plan to take in the sightsand highlights along the way and be prepared for frequent
stops, from traffic in towns to photo opportunities.
My Corvette trip took 11 days and began in San Diego,
a beautiful city of picturesque parks and grand,
restored 1860s buildings in the downtown Gas
Lamp Quarter. It made a fabulous, easy-paced
start to the drive north.
The coastline between San Diego and LA
is often bypassed by those who land at LAX
and head north. Do that and you miss out on
some real treats. California is synonymous
with surfing and, while you see it all along the
coast, nowhere is surf culture stronger than south
of LA.
The breakers created by the offshore Santa Ana
winds are perfect for surfing at Huntington Beach, sung
getting to know ncalifornia
n Mustang on 17 Mile Drive, Monterey
n Sunset surfer
Peter Ellegard
C a l i f o r n i a
T r a v e l a n d T o u r i s m C
o m m i s s i o n
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about in 1963 hit single, Surf City, by home-town duo
Jan & Dean. Today, Huntington Beach even calls itself
Surf City USA. It hosted the first professional surfing
event in 1959 and is where the USA surf team has its
base. Surfing attractions include the International Surf-
ing Museum and Surfing Hall of Fame(www.surfingmuseum.org), and the Surfing Walk of
Fame (www.surfingwalkoffame.com).
Surf culture is also strong in Oceanside and Newport
Beach and, beyond LA, in Malibu, playground of the
rich and famous.
Majestic former transatlantic liner the Queen Mary
(www.queenmary.com) now lies captive in dock at
Long Beach as a floating hotel and attraction. Stay
aboard her, as I have done, in elegant decadence or be
transported back to the days when steamships ruled the
waves on tours of its stately, art deco interior. Nearby are
the Disneyland (http://disneyland.disney.go.com ) and
Knott’s Berry Farm (www.knotts.com) theme parks of Anaheim.
To its detractors, Los Angeles is a sprawling urban
mass; a city with glitz but without a heart. The reality is it
has several hearts, and they beat loudest in its western
neighbourhoods. This is a Westside Story with a difference.
From the refined elegance of Beverly Hills and West
Hollywood to the vibrant oceanside communities of
Santa Monica and Marina del Rey, including funky
neighbour Venice Beach, each neighbourhood has its
own flavours and attractions for visitors.
ferris wheel
Beverly Hills has attracted stars for decades. Today, it is
famous for its high-end shopping, with ritzy Rodeo
Drive (www.rodeodrive.com) the epicentre of its
shopping scene, and the grand Beverly Wilshire hotel
8 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
getting to know ncalifornia
mountains, forests
and deserts
California has nature in spades, with 270state parks, 19 national forests, over a dozen
major mountain ranges, 14 million acres of
federal wilderness area, 32 million acres of
forest and 21 million acres of desert.
At Yosemite, King’s Canyon and Sequoia
national parks, you can see giant sequoia
trees, nature’s largest living things. The latter
includes the General Sherman Tree – the
world’s largest tree by volume. It stands
274.9 feet high and has a circumference of
102.6 feet.
California has three standing trees you can
drive through, for a fee. All are coastalredwoods in Humboldt County, Northern
California. Tunnel Log is a fallen giant sequoia
with a tunnel cut into it in Sequoia National
Park through which cars can drive.
Mountain resorts offering skiing and
summer adventure include Mammoth, SquawValley and Heavenly.
Among California’s desert areas is Death
Valley National Park, where Badwater is the
Western Hemisphere’s lowest point. The
Mojave National Preserve and Joshua Tree
National Park are other desert areas. Desertresort community Palm Springs is a man-
made oasis offering luxurious spa resorts,
golf, dining, art, theatre and shopping. The
Palm Springs Aerial Tramway takes visitors
8,500 feet up to San Jacinto State Park.
“Driving thePacific CoastHighwayneeds timeand patience,like
savouring anexpensivewine”
C a l i f o r n i a T r a v e l a n d T o u r i s m C
o m m i s s i o n
n Driving throughTunnel Log
n Catching a wave
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(www.fourseasons.com/beverlywilshire ) opposite.
You may find yourself rubbing shoulders with celebs
there and at the Beverly Hills Hotel
(www.beverlyhillshotel.com ), a doyenne known
locally as the Pink Palace.
Shop for designer fashion and art at WestHollywood’s Avenues of Art & Design district
(www.avenueswh.com), before hitting Sunset Strip to
party the night away at its clubs and nightspots.
Santa Monica Pier (www.santamonicapier.org)
features the Pacific Park amusement park, which
includes the world’s first solar-powered Ferris wheel,
giving bird’s-eye views of the beaches, and a traditional
carousel.
Muscle Beach (www.musclebeach.net ) was born
just south of the pier in the 1950s, kick-starting the
body-beautiful, workout and health fads now such an
integral part of the LA scene. Rent a bike or skates and
follow the 8.5-mile beach path to Venice Beach, whereyou will find the musclemen pumping iron today. Venice
Beach is great for people-watching for its bizarre sights
and wacky performers. I once encountered a semi-naked
man standing one-footed while holding rubber snakes in
each hand and balancing a branch on his head. You could
also have your photo taken with aliens sat in deckchairs.
Neighbouring Marina del Rey boasts America’s
largest man-made yacht harbour, from where you can
take a chartered yacht to explore the coastline and
offshore islands or take a relaxing harbour cruise.
Hollywood highlights include Universal Studios
(www.universalstudioshollywood.com ), while LA’s
cultural scene takes in the Getty Centre(www.getty.edu) high above the city and the Getty
Villa, in Malibu, with collections of artworks, sculptures
and photographs. Catch shows and concerts at the Kodak
Theatre (www.kodaktheatre.com ), home of the
Oscars, and Los Angeles Philharmonic performances at
Frank Gehry’s garish, silver Walt Disney Concert Hall
(www.laphil.com). Pasadena is worth taking a side trip
for the historic buildings of its old centre. I vividly recall
partying all night with samba-dancing Brazilians in the
street celebrations in Old Pasadena after watching Brazil
beat Italy in the World Cup Final at the nearby Rose
Bowl stadium in 1994.
Shoppers wanting unusual souvenirs should head tothe LA County Coroner’s Office, where Skeletons in the
Closet (www.lacoroner.com) is a gift shop a couple of
floors up from the mortuary that sells items including
towels with the outline of a dead body and toe-tag key
rings. The proceeds help rehabilitate offenders.
missionsTwo hours north of LA, Santa Barbara styles itself the
American Riviera and is a beautiful city rich in history
with glorious Pacific beaches and a marina edged by
restaurants.
Take the lift up to the 85-foot-high clock tower of the
Spanish Colonial Revival-style Santa Barbara County
Courthouse (www.sbcourts.org) for a great view over its
red tiled roof and the city, then go on a Red Tile Walking
Tour past 1800s-era adobe homes and public buildings.
10 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
getting to know ncalifornia
san francisco and beyondSan Francisco’s landmarks include Golden Gate Bridge, 75 years old in 2012, the
clanging cable cars of the world’s last manually-operated cable car system, the
shops, restaurants and attractions of Pier 39 ( www.pier39.com) and Fisherman’s
Wharf ( www.fishermanswharf.org) and former federal prison Alcatraz
( www.nps.gov/alcatraz ), set on an island.
Several companies offer cruises to Alcatraz. For an unrivalled perspective of the
city, take a 20-minute aerial Vista Tour with San Francisco Helicopters
( www.sfhelicoptertours.com) for $160 – on my trip, the pilot even flew us
under Golden Gate Bridge!
And be the centre of attention on a city tour in open-sided vintage buses with
Mr Toad’s Tours ( www.mrtoadstours.com).
San Francisco has America’s largest and oldest Chinatown, established when the
1849 Gold Rush brought many Chinese immigrants. Other areas with a rich ethnicpast are Russian Hill, down which the “world’s crookedest street” – Lombard
Street – descends, and North Beach (Italian). Haight-Ashbury was the birthplace of
hippy culture and flower power.
Cultural institutions include the California Academy of Sciences
( www.calacademy.org), with an aquarium, planetarium, natural history museum
and a four-story rainforest all under one roof.
Beyond San Francisco, cross Golden Gate Bridge to carry on up the coast,
stopping off at arty Sausalito and the giant redwoods of Muir Woods. Or head
inland to visit the wineries of Napa Valley or state capital Sacramento. After the
discovery of gold in the nearby Sierra Nevada foothills in 1848, it was a key supply
centre for the Gold Rush, becoming the capital in 1854. The Capitol Building is one
of two dozen museums in the city.
C a l i f o r n i a T r a v e l a n d T o u r i s m C
o m m i s s i o n
P e t e r E l l e g a
r d
n The Golden GateBridge, San Francisco
n Cable car, San Francisco
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The beautiful, hilltop Old Mission Santa Barbara
(http://santabarbaramission.org) is the city’s crown-
ing architectural glory. Founded in 1786, it is one of 21
missions built by the Spanish between 1769 and 1823
and is known as the “Queen of the Missions”.Stay at a cosy downtown B&B like the Cheshire Cat
Inn (www.cheshirecat.com ) and you can enjoy its art
galleries, shops and restaurants on foot.
Santa Barbara Wine Country is one of California’s
main wine regions. You can taste local vintages at 12
wineries within a few blocks of downtown and the
beaches on the Santa Barbara Urban Wine Trail
(www.urbanwinetrailsb.com ) or take a Wine Tours by
Trolley trip (www.sbtrolley.com), hopping on and off
trolleys to enjoy good libations at four wineries.
Oscar-winning movie Sideways was set in Santa
Barbara Wine Country and you can check out film loca-
tions on guided Sideways tours or pick up a map fromthe Santa Barbara Convention & Visitors Bureau
(www.santabarbaraca.com ) and drive to them
yourself. Among locations used were picturesque
Santa Ynez Valley communities Los Olivos and
Solvang, a fascinating Danish village cele-
brating its centenary this year withScandinavian buildings, antique and art
shops, a windmill and an old mission.
At San Luis Obispo, a stay in the
Madonna Inn (www.madonnainn.com )
means sleeping in themed rooms, including
caves where you shower under a cascading
waterfall in your bathroom.
Halfway between LA and San Francisco at San
Simeon, stop for a guided tour of newspaper magnate
William Randolph Hearst’s palatial, Spanish-styled
Hearst Castle (www.hearstcastle.org), which houses
priceless art and antiques, with sculptures and a Roman
temple gracing the estate.
artist’s colonyThe road from there to the Monterey Peninsula is one of
America’s most spectacular drives, and is known as the
Big Sur Coast Highway. It hugs the wild coastline past
Big Sur’s towering cliffs, canyons and giant redwoods.
Stay at the chic, clifftop Post Ranch Inn
(www.postranchinn.com) for spectacular views and
to enjoy the natural beauty and wildlife, including
condors, at leisure.
Beyond Big Sur lies pretty artists’ colony Carmel.
There, you can take scenic 17-Mile Drive, which loops
around the Monterey Peninsula headland past glorious
ocean vistas, wind-sculpted cypress trees and golf
courses including Pebble Beach.
Former fish-canning town Monterey, made famous
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 11
getting to know ncalifornia
C a l i f o r n i a T r a v e l a n d T o u r i s m C o m m i s s i o n
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
S o l v a n g C o n f e r e
n c e a n d V i s i t o r s B u r e a u
n Santa BarbaraCounty Courthouse
n Danish dancersat Solvang
n Hearst Castle
n Alcatraz
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
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by author John Steinbeck, is popular with tourists. Goshopping in Cannery Row’s stores and dine at harbour-
side restaurants on Fisherman’s Wharf, from where you
can watch sea otters frolic among the giant kelp fronds
or hear barking sea lions. Rent a kayak for a close-up
view of seals and dolphins or take a boat trip to watch
migrating blue, grey and humpback whales.
The Monterey Bay Aquarium
(www.montereybayaquarium.org) is a must and
showcases the rich marine life found just offshore in the
bay’s protected marine sanctuary waters. The Hotel
Abrego (www.hotelabrego.com) makes a good base
for exploring the Monterey area, or if you want luxury
with world-class golf on your doorstep, book a stay atPebble Beach Resorts (www.pebblebeach.com).
First opened over 100 years ago, the Santa Cruz
Beach Boardwalk (www.beachboardwalk.com), on
Monterey Bay, is California’s oldest surviving amuse-
ment park. Ride an old steam train through redwood
forests on the Roaring Camp and Big Trees Narrow
Gauge Railroad.
By the time you reach San Francisco, you should be
chilled out after your marathon drive and ready for a
chilled glass of wine from nearby Napa Valley to toast
the memories. Much as I love San Francisco, I think I
left my heart somewhere back on the Pacific Coast high-
way.
12 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
getting to know ncalifornia
california facts
when to goCalifornia’s diverse topography, from coast
to deserts and forested mountains,
means it has a range of climates. Coastal
regions enjoys a Mediterranean-style
climate with sunny and warm summers
and wet and mild winters.
getting thereFlights operate from London Heathrow to Los
Angeles and San Francisco, with direct services by British Airways( www.ba.com), Virgin Atlantic ( www.virgin-atlantic.com), American
Airlines ( www.aa.com), United Airlines ( www.unitedairlines.com )
and Air New Zealand ( www.airnewzealand.co.uk).
getting aroundRent a car. All the main rental companies have locations throughout
California. You can rent Ford Mustangs from Dollar Rent a Car
( www.dollar.co.uk). Amtrak’s Pacific Surfliner train
(w ww.amtrak.com) runs between San Diego and San Luis Obispo via
Los Angeles and Santa Barbara. San Francisco’s Muni ( www.sfmuni.com)
operates buses, trolleys and cable cars. Los Angeles has a bus network
and its Metro ( www.metro.net), with four lines and 70 stations.
tour operators
Operators include America As You Like It
( www.americaasyoulikeit.com ),
Virgin Holidays
( www.virginholidays.co.uk), Bon
Voyage ( www.bon-voyage.co.uk),
Premier Holidays
( www.premierholidays.co.uk), North
America Travel Service
( www.northamericatravelservice.co.uk),
Funway Holidays ( www.funwayholidays.co.uk) and Trekamerica
( www.trekamerica.co.uk ).
tourist informationVisit California: www.visitcalifornia.co.uk
C a l i f o r n i a T r a v e l a n d T o u r i s m C
o m m i s s i o n
C a l i f o r n i a T r a v e l a n d T o u r i s m C
o m m i s s i o n
B e v e r l e y H i l l s C V B
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
n Fisherman’s Wharf, Monterey
n Classic car in San Francisco
n Cablecars, SanFrancisco
n BeverleyHills signpost
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When travelling abroad, the local food, drink and climate can all have an
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I
t was Sunday morning and time for tea in the tiny
Hong Kong café where my fellow travellers and I
were sat. Milk tea, that is – a local favourite. And
it was doing a roaring trade, with the few seatsgrabbed as soon as they were vacated and locals
queuing to buy take-away snacks and drinks.
Actually, café is probably too grand a description.
This was an industrial-looking dai pai dong, or open-air
food stall, although inside a food market. Once
widespread, relatively few now survive as a result of
strict licensing and controls.
Finding such gems would be impossible by yourself.
But we were on a behind-the-scenes tour of Kowloon,
the mainland part of Hong Kong, discovering hidden
delights off its well-trodden tourist circuit. After haggling
for trinkets in the Jade Market, we visited a pearl shop
for some rather more expensive bargaining, then set off exploring on foot.
First stop, a lively street market full of exotic fruits, meat
and fish, followed by one of Hong Kong’s oldest streets,
Shanghai Street, then a park with locals playing board games
in the shade and, tucked between buildings, an elaborately-
decorated temple where incense hung heavy in the air.
Finally it was time for dim sum lunch, at the award-
winning Super Star Seafood restaurant – only we would
be making it ourselves. With expert guidance by the
chefs during our hour-long lesson we tried our hands at
creating various dumplings, with varying degrees of
success. But we were all awarded certificates before
tucking in to our home-cooked meal, which was unex-
pectedly tasty. A fitting end to a fascinating tour.
Hong Kong is very much a destination that draws you
in so that you feel part of the hubbub of daily life. Hardly
surprising, given the former British colony’s compact
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 15
Street lifeFormer colonial outposts Hong Kong and Macau have continued to burgeon under Chinese rule
and offer experiences that are worlds apart yet just a ferry ride from each other. Peter
Ellegard takes to the streets to explore these pulsating Asian siblings
escape to nhong kong & macau
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
n Kowloonstreet market
n The Hong Kong skyline
Hong Kong Tourism Board
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ria Peak and the Symphony of Lights, you can watch
horse racing at Happy Valley (www.happyvalleyrace-
course.com), home of the Hong Kong Jockey Club, or
go clubbing in the Lan Kwai Fong and Wan Chai enter-
tainment districts as well as in Causeway Bay, where you
also find great local restaurants. Stanley, Kowloon and
Tsim Sha Tsui are other good places to eat without
breaking the bank. But there are many top-class restau-
rants if you want to dine in style, particularly at
upmarket hotels such as The Langham
(www.langhamhotels.com), the Renaissance Harbour
View (www.marriott.co.uk ) and the Island Shangri-La(www.shangri-la.com).
Just 15 years ago, Hong Kong was in its last days
under British rule and was facing an uncertain future as
a holiday destination, with many wondering how it
would change after its handover to China. The fears were
misplaced, as it has not lost any of its vibrancy and has
even more to offer visitors now than ever before.
macau
The same can be said of former Portuguese colony
Macau, which reverted to China just two years later to
become a Special Administrative Region like its near-
neighbour. Less than an hour from Hong Kong by fastferry and often linked with it on twin-centre holidays,
Macau is undergoing huge investment in its tourism
industry. Much of that has been in mega casino hotels,
notably in the Cotai Strip (www.cotaistrip.com.mo) –
dubbed Asia’s Las Vegas.
Queen of the Cotai Strip is The Venetian Macao, a
$2.4 billion resort that opened in August 2007. It is on a
positively gargantuan scale, as I discovered when I flew
in as an invited guest for its grand opening. Our coach
pulled into what seemed like a giant aircraft hangar,
although actually its own dedicated bus terminal, the
illusion underlined by a marshal waving the driver into a
parking bay using airport-style glowing wands.
I have been to most of the casino hotels in Las Vegas,
but the sheer size of this edifice was staggering to take
in. Walking from my room to any of the public areas
required planning followed by what seemed like a route
march, while the casino itself was a vast windowless
cavern with endless rows of jangling, flashing slot
machines interspersed by dozens of gaming tables. It felt
like Dante’s Inferno on speed.
The 3,000-suite hotel – Asia’s largest single structure
and the world’s second-largest building – also features
more than 350 shops in its Venice-themed Grand Canal
Shoppes retail area, complete with a canal and gondolas,
as well as 30 restaurants, a 15,000-seat arena and the
1,800-seat Venetian Theatre, which is home to the
permanent Cirque du Soleil show, Zaia.Matching it for spectacle is the Theatre of Dreams,
with its £250 million House of Dancing Water spectacu-
lar, in the Cotai Strip’s City of Dreams
(www.cityofdreamsmacau.com ). Most of Macau’s
large hotels have resident bands as well as clubs, bars
and restaurants. You’ll also find buzzing nightlife in the
trendy clubs of waterfront theme park Fisherman’s
Wharf (www.fishermanswharf.com.mo).
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 17
escape to nhong kong & macau
hong kong and macau tips
l Hong Kong is more than just a city – 70% of the land is rural and there are
more than 260 islands, plus over 30 beaches.
l Hong Kong can easily be combined with other destinations in Asia or
Australasia.
l Hong Kong and Macau are a gourmet’s paradise. You can find any kind of cuisine,
including dim sum, in Hong Kong while Macau’s cuisine has a strong Portuguese
element.
l Ride Hong Kong’s iconic, double-decker trams – known locally as Ding Dongs –
to get a real flavour of the destination, hopping on and off to explore sights.
l Macau’s 17th-century Guia Fortress is the oldest lighthouse on China’s coast.
l Top festivals in Macau include the Dragon Boat Festival, held in June at Nam Van
Lakes, and the International Fireworks Display Contest, held over three weeks
until October 1.
l Hong Kong’s events include its own Dragon Boat Festival, in June, as well as the
Tin Hau Fishermans’ Festival in April/May and Cheung Chau Bun Festival in
May/June.
M a c a u G o v e r n m e n t T o u r i s t B o a r d
Peter Ellegard
n Aberdeen Harbour, Hong Kong
n The brightlights of Macau
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world heritage siteBut what sets Macau apart, and for me what makes itsuch a special place, is its rich blend of Portuguese and
Chinese heritage. It was a Portuguese colony for over
four centuries until its handover in 1999 and its historic
centre was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO
in 2005.
Macau’s historic heart spans eight elegant squares
and it comprises the most complete array of European
architectural legacy in China. Gems include the ruins of
St Paul’s, the façade of a church originally built in 1594
but ravaged by fire in 1835. It is the symbol of Macau.
Facing out across St Dominic’s Square is the ornate,
yellow-painted St Dominic’s Church, dating to 1587 and
the first church built in China. An annual spectacle notto miss if you are in Macau is the Procession of Our
Lady of Fatima, in which women clad in white bear a
statue every May 13.
Adjacent Senado Square, with its wavy-patterned
cobbles surrounded by glorious old buildings, is another
crowd-puller. Make sure you take in Macau’s Chinese
heritage, too, at places including the tranquil and beauti-
ful, red-walled A-Ma Temple, with the flowing tiles of
Barra Square in front.
There are plenty of other attractions to explore, too.
Museums encompass the Maritime Museum
(www.museumaritimo.gov.mo), Macau Museum
(www.macaumuseum.gov.mo) and Grand PrixMuseum (http://gp.macau.grandprix.gov.mo ), cele-
brating the annual Formula 3 Macau Grand Prix. Then
there’s the cone-shaped Macau Science Centre and
Fisherman’s Wharf, featuring three themed areas with
restaurants, cafés, shops and street entertainment, as
well as the landmark, 1,100ft Macau Tower
(www.macautower.com.mo), from which the brave
can hurl themselves off on the Bungy Jump or take a
more sedate, 20-second journey down with a SkyJump,
while others can simply take in the view from on high in
the revolving 360º Café.
At just 11 square miles, Macau packs so much in you
will wish you had allowed more time for your stay.
Combine it with Hong Kong and you will have a fasci-
nating and action-packed twin-centre break that will
have you planning your return as soon as you leave.
18 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
escape to nhong kong & macau
hong kong and macau facts
when to goHong Kong and Macau have a tropical
climate with high humidity. October-March is the most pleasant time of
year, when humidity levels are lower.
getting thereDirect Hong Kong flights from
London are operated by British Airways
( www.ba.com), Cathay Pacific
( www.cathaypacific.com ), Virgin Atlantic
( www.virgin-atlantic.com), Qantas ( www.qantas.co.uk) and Air
New Zealand ( www.airnewzealand.co.uk ).
Macau has its own airport with regional flights but most people go by
fast ferry, with direct services from Hong Kong International Airport,
Hong Kong Island and Kowloon taking an hour or less.
getting aroundPublic transport in Hong Kong is world class, with frequent services on
its bus, tram and MTR underground networks. Buy an Octopus Card,
similar to London’s Oyster Card, for best value. Cross-harbour services
are operated by Star Ferry, while other ferries link outlying islands. Taxis
are also plentiful and good value, as they are in Macau, where buses and
pedicabs are other ways to get around.
accommodationAll top hotel chains are in Hong Kong, offering accommodation and
service levels of the highest quality. If you have a head for heights, stay in
the world’s tallest hotel, the newly-opened Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong( www.ritzcarlton.com ) or perhaps grande dames such as the historic
Peninsula Hotel ( www.peninsula.com/hongkong ) or Mandarin
Oriental ( www.mandarinoriental.com/hongkong ).
Macau’s hotel scene is dominated by luxury casino hotels. Choose from
The Venetian Macao ( www.venetianmacao.com), Wynn Macau
( www.wynnmacau.com), Hard Rock Hotel
( www.hardrockhotelmacau.com ) and others or, for a quieter
getaway, the Westin Resort, Macau ( www.starwoodhotels.com ), the
only resort on Macau’s Hac Sa Beach.
tour operators
Companies offering packages include Virgin Holidays
( www.virginholidays.co.uk), Audley Travel
( www.audleytravel.com), Kuoni
( www.kuoni.co.uk), Bridge & Wickers
( www.bridgeandwickers.co.uk ),
Premier Holidays
( www.premierholidays.co.uk),
Funway Holidays
( www.funwayholidays.co.uk)
and Hayes & Jarvis
( www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk ).
tourist informationHong Kong Tourism Board:
www.discoverhongkong.com/uk
Macau Government Tourist Office: www.macautourism.gov.mo
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
H o n g K o n g T o u r i s m B
o a r d
n St Paul’sruins, Macau
n A-MaTemplestatue,Macau
n The Peaktram at night
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My first ranching holiday was the ulti-
mate in lucky breaks. Riding out on
the range as a rookie cowgirl, I was
shown how to inject antibiotics into
the flanks of kicking calves while Hip,
son of Lloyd Tillett, the TX Ranch
patriarch, castrated them with a knife.
That may sound cruel, but that’s the way they do it
in Montana. Indeed that’s the way they’ve been doing
it, though initially without the drugs, since William
Tillett and his wife, Bessie, established their home-
stead near Lovell, Wyoming, in 1895. Their first cattle,
bought in from Amarillo, Texas, had the TX brand that
is still used today.
In the 21st century, Lloyd and his wife Abbie keep
1,200 breeding cows and progeny too numerous to count
on grasslands straddling the state line. When I was there
in July, sleek herds were enjoying lush summer pastures,
bright with wild flowers, on the Montana side. Happily I
was back in my western saddle at the end of the day’s
work when a rattler reared into attack mode under my
horse’s hooves. Likewise when a black bear walked
purposefully along the edge of a gorge, perhaps 50 yards
away, but fortunately on the other side.
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 21
Who can say they didn’t fantasise about living the cowboy lifestyle as youngsters? Today, city
slickers can swap their laptops for Stetsons and ride tall in the saddle on ranching holidays from
Canada to Argentina and as far afield as Australia. Cowgirl at heart, Minty Clinch dons her spurs
to give the lowdown
let’s try nranching holidays
Home onthe range
n Galloping on theprairie at ParadiseRanch, Wyoming
American Round-Up
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22 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
let’s try nranching holidays
Each night, we stretched out under the stars in our
sleeping bags sated with Abbie’s magnificent home
cooking, only to awake to barking dogs and thrashing
hooves as wolves or bears approached the derelict corral.
Each morning, Abbie would say: “Darn, them horses jumped out again.” But as Hip preferred the excitement
of rounding them up to the grind of fixing the
woodwork, that’s how it had to be.
With so much action 24/7, the TX horses are fit for
purpose and eager to gallop, whether pursuing errant steers
or rounding up young horses at racing pace on the plains of
Little Bighorn, scene of Custer’s last stand in 1876.
dude ranches
When the Tillets established their working guest ranch
in 1976, they broke new ground in a country that
already had plenty of well-established dude ranches.
That’s the kind where guests, many of them novices inthe saddle, live in luxury and walk out with the due
caution required to prevent injury litigation.
Typically, they appeal to multi-generational holiday-
makers, with games and petting zoos for the children, art
and cookery classes for the sedentary and skeet shooting
and archery for the wannabes who need a target to hit.
These are the two extremes of the holiday ranching
industry but, as I learned when I visited Lonesome Spur
near Bridger, Montana, some ranches are better than
others. Owned by the Schwend family since the late 19th
century, it was converted into a guest ranch by Lonnie
and his then wife, Darlene, in 1993.
Shortly afterwards, author Nick Evans stopped off
during his research for The Horse Whisperer and
modelled Frank and Dianne Booker, the hero’s brother
and sister-in-law, on his hosts.
In real life, Lonnie is as laid back as Frank. A superb
rider, he trains his splendid young horses with his own
version of the Monty Roberts “horse whisperer” tech-
nique, rather than breaking them in with strong bits and
spurs as cowboys used to do.Like the Tilletts, the Schwends offer their guests a
“working” ranch experience, but mine was restricted to a
very slow cattle drive on a horse so fat that the saddle
slipped round at any pace above a walk, a potentially
alarming result.
The other days during my stay were given over to
shopping, the Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range and the
Buffalo Bill Wild West Museum in Cody, an agenda that
found no favour with glamorous French clients who’d
come dressed to make it like cowgirls. As they also
planned to go to the local bar to pick up cowboys, both
“sending home” offences in the Schwend etiquette
manual, they’re not likely to be repeat customers.The moral of this is that picking the right holiday for
your ability and ambitions requires research and plan-
ning, especially now that ranching has gone global.
Here’s where you can take ranch holidays:
united states
Say ranch and most people would think Texas, the tradi-
tional heart of the cattle business and the place where
real men shoot down their enemies in dusty streets at
high noon. It doesn’t disappoint, particularly in Bandera
– nicknamed the Cowboy Capital of the World.
Since Hollywood’s popular comedy, City Slickers,
introduced the nation to rookie cowboys on the cattle
trail in the 1990s, horse-rich California has diversified
into ranch holidays to suit every aspiration.
The Rockies, with their high summer pastures, are
“Wherever you can ski
in winter,you can ridethe range insummer”
n Horse riding inBritish Columbia, Canada
C l a y o q u o t W i l d e r n e s s R e s o r t
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
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perfect for cattle-led holidays. As a rule of thumb, wher-
ever you can ski in winter, you can ride the range in
summer. That means Montana, Idaho, Wyoming,
Colorado, Utah, Nevada, Arizona and New Mexico, but
note that the season is shorter and the weather colder thefurther north you go. Rodeo festivals maintain the tradi-
tions of the Old West, with bucking, roping and
barrel-jumping contests, so check out dates near your
destination before you book.
From the pizzazz of Las Vegas, a 35-minute helicop-
ter flight takes you straight to the Grand Canyon Ranch
Resort on the canyon’s West Rim, where accommoda-
tion is in pine cabins or traditional Native American
tepees. Activities include guided horse rides, wagon
rides on the historic Mormon Trail, roping demonstra-
tions, cowboy stories and fireside sing-alongs.
Horse-back or wagon buffalo safaris have just been
introduced.There’s also a case for looking outside the box. South
Dakota, for example, has a proud equestrian tradition,
with Mount Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Memorial
thrown in for good measure, while Kentucky, Oklahoma
and Kansas showcase American diversity in the saddle.
Few would associate Hawaii with ranching, but the Big
Island, in particular, has an enormous cattle industry
with facilities for range riding of all kinds.
You can also join in a cattle drive in several states,
helping to move the cattle to or from their summer graz-
ing pastures.
canada North of the border, Calgary, home to the celebrated
Stampede each July, is the focus for ranch holidays in
Alberta. Many of the outdoor scenes in the award-
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 23
let’s try nranching holidays
n Camp fire singalongs are popular
n Grand CanyonRanch, Arizona
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
Peter Ellegard
Horse culture rules the world – it’s just a
question of finding the right way in.
Throughout Central Asia extended
families spend their summers in remote
ger (yurt) camps, tending mixed flocks of
yak, goats, horses, cattle and sheep. Why
not try an escorted riding andcamping trip in Mongolia or
Kyrgyzstan with niche adventure
company, Wild Frontiers
( www.wildfrontiers.co.uk)?
The US heads the western location
list, but the giant El Questro ranch
( www.elquestro.com.au) in the
Kimberleys hosted the dramatic cattle drive
in Australia, Baz Luhrmann’s romantic epic
set in World War II. Leading lady Nicole
Kidman was not so fortunate – when
she tried for a reservation in the
luxurious Homestead, there was no room at the inn.
If riding, yoga and game viewing is your scene, Ant’s
Nest in South Africa will provide all the necessary
bells and whistles. The private safari lodge – maximum
of eight guests – offers provides a flexible schedule to
suit individual tastes ( www.rideworldwide.co.uk).
Get stuck into a chukka on a guest ranch in
Argentina, the world’s top polo nation. The La
Martina residential club ( www.poloholidays.com),
100km outside Buenos Aires, is owned by the
mother of world number one, Adolfo Cambiaso.
There are lessons for beginners, but experienced
players take part in games with club members from
Buenos Aires, an inside track introduction to the
glamorous polista circuit.
alternativeaction
n Argentina ranchesoffer polo lessonsand games
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winning movie, Brokeback Mountain, were filmed
among dramatic lakes and waterfalls in Kananaskis
Country, an extensive park with lots of great riding
country within 30 minutes of the downtown area.
British Columbia, the country’s most westerly and
mountainous province, has hidden secrets that deserve to be explored. They include Tsylos Park Lodge, set in a
scenic area for trail riding and camping between the
Coastal Mountains and the Chilcotin Plateau, and Clay-
oquot Wilderness Resort, near Tofino on Vancouver Island.
south americaFor cowboy, read gaucho, for ranch, read estancia, but
the name of the game is the same, with men born in the
saddle exhibiting skills the rest of us can only marvel at.
Over much of Argentina, the pampas stretch as far as
the eye can see, herds that run into thousands mere dots
on the horizon. Gauchos wear baggy pants held up with
woven cotton sashes and cheeky berets or pork pie hats,a different look to the cowboy’s checked shirts, blue
jeans and stetsons. Riding in the foothills of the Andes,
especially in northern Patagonia, is more interesting than
the flatlands.
In Ecuador, my ride from estancia to estancia, often
with formal dinner hosted by the lord of the manor,
provided insights into a yesteryear culture that has
changed little over the past century.
australia and new zealandFor gaucho, read jackeroo, for estancia, read cattle
station, but again these are nations of stockmen engaged
in raising cattle and sheep in the back of beyond. In the21st century, Aussie farmers tend to round up their
animals on motorbikes, but many stations are still eager
to host riding holidays.
The arrival of travelling shearers on a wool-harvest-
ing mission marks the start of a party that lasts for the
duration. This is especially true in New Zealand,
famously home to just 4.5 million people but
60 million sheep.
24 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
let’s try nranching holidays
Freelance travel journalist Minty Clinch writes about global
adventures for a range of national newspapers andmagazines. Chasing her recalcitrant Shetland pony, The
Nipper, round a paddock as a toddler proved the perfectpreparation for wilderness camping and crossing continentson horseback in later years, often with a herd of cattle to
the fore.
ranch holiday facts
sample holidaysThe season is short in Montana so Ranch Rider advise early booking for
the TX Ranch summer pastures camps. Day to day action includes de-horning, branding, tagging, wrangling young horses and chasing down stray
cattle as well as castrating, though guests can chill if they prefer. Seven
nights’ tented accommodation with full board and riding costs from £989
per person including pick up at Billings airport. Flights from £675. Over-
16s only.
In The Saddle offers cutting-edge adventure at Estancia Huechahue near
San Martin de Los Andes in Patagonia, Argentina. Variants include camping
trips on horseback through monkey puzzle forests among snow-capped
volcanic cones, seasonal cattle drives to distant parts of Patagonian Steppe
and fishing trips. Seven nights’ accommodation in two lodges with all meals
and drinks starts at £1,696, excluding flights. Children over six welcome.
Western and Oriental offers seven nights staying at 923-acre Tiger Mountain
Ranch in Oklahoma, a guest ranch which mostly offers scenic Western riding,
from £1,665 per person and includes return flights, transfers, taxes, gratuities
and full board at the ranch and most ranch activities, with accommodation in a
tepee or a lodge room. Wranglers show guests cowboy activities including
shooting Old West guns, cattle ranching and learning to live off the land.
American Round-Up features the Lonesome Spur Ranch in Montana. One
of the best times to go is late May or early June, when activities include
moving cattle into summer grazing and possibly branding. Return flights
from London to Billings, a first nights’ hotel and seven nights at the ranch
with accommodation, full board, ranch activities, Billings transfers, tax and
tips costs from £1,799.
ranch holiday specialistsAmerican Round Up: 01798 865946,
www.americanroundup.com . North
American ranch and adventure specialists.
In the Saddle: 01299 272997,
www.inthesaddle.com . Dude, guest
and working ranches in the US and
Canada, plus worldwide riding holidays and
explorer trails in Australia and New Zealand.
Ranch Rider: 01509 618811,
www.ranchrider.com. US, Canada, Argentina, South Africa & Botswana.
Unicorn Trails: 01767 600606, www.unicorntrails.com . Many countries
in Latin America (including Brazil, Mexico, Costa Rica and the Dominican
Republic).
Western and Oriental: 020 7963 6657, www.wandotravel.com . Tailor-
made ranch holidays or add-ons to other holidays in North America.
ranchesTX Ranch, Montana: www.txranch.com
Lonesome Spur Ranch, Montana: www.lonesomespur.com
Grand Canyon Ranch Resort, Arizona: www.grandcanyonranch.com
Tsylos Park Lodge, British Columbia, Canada: www.tsylos.com
more informationThe Dude Ranchers’ Association ( www.duderanch.org), founded in 1926,
provides a rundown on over 100 dude ranches in the western United States.
n Riding in theAlberta Rockies
n Kara Creek Ranchin Wyoming
T r a v e l A l b e r t a
A m e r i c a n R o u n d - U
p
Western & Oriental
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A fantastic four-night ScottishHighlands wildlife break for two
at the Grant Arms Hotel – home
of the Bird Watching & Wildlife
Club – is up for grabs in this
fantastic competition!
Located in the charming country
town of Grantown-on-Spey in the
Cairngorms National Park, the
Grant Arms Hotel provides an ideal
base to explore the stunning
scenery and abundance of local
wildlife. No other area can offer the
chance to see golden eagle,capercaillie, pine marten, red
squirrel, red deer, mountain hare,
ptarmigan, crested tit, crossbill,
osprey, red and black-throated diver,
otter, Slavonian
grebe, red and
black grouse,
bottlenose
dolphin and much more!.
The winner will not
only visit an exceptional Scottish
location, but have the advice andguidance of the Bird Watching &
Wildlife Club, which offers a
programme of free events,
including guided walks,
wildlife briefings, talks,
quizzes and film screenings.
The BWWC can also provide
maps and guides, as
well as information
about local wildlife
hotspots and escorted trips –
everything you need for anextraordinary wildlife watching
holiday in the Highlands.
The prize break is for up to two
people, on a dinner, bed & breakfast
basis for four nights, sharing a
superior twin or double room. It
can be taken any time before
April 30, 2012, subject to room
availability and excluding stays over
Christmas and New Year.
For more information about
the Grant Arms Hotel and theBird Watching & Wildlife Club,
visit www.bwwc.co.uk.
how to enterTo WIN a four-night wildlife stay
at the Grant Arms Hotel, simply
answer this question:
Question: In which national park
is the Grant Arms Hotel located?
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 27
competitions nhighlands wildlife break + yorkshire spa stay
To enter, go to
www.tlm-magazine.co.uk
and click on Competitions.
Closing date is November 18,
2011. Terms and conditions
apply; see website for details.
WIN a £850 wildlife break for two in the Highlands of Scotland
B W W C
Main photo and background: Noel Marry
n GrantArms Hotel
n Ptarmigan inthe Highlands
n Crested tit
G r e g M o r g a n
Situated on the Duke of Devonshire’s
30,000-acre Bolton Abbey Estate in the
Yorkshire Dales, The Devonshire Arms
Country House Hotel & Spa boasts 40 luxury
bedrooms, each individual in style. The Old
Wing dates back to 1757 and has fantastic
charm and character, while the modern
Wharfedale Wing was added by the then
Duchess of Devonshire in 1982 and refur-
bished by the current Duchess in early 2009.
Enjoy two of Yorkshire’s most highly-
regarded restaurants – the refined Burlington
with a Michelin star and four AA rosettes, or
the lively and colourful Devonshire Brasserie
and Bar. Both offer excellent food, a superb
wine list and dedicated attention from enthu-
siastic staff. Fresh local produce including
estate meat and game with seasonal vegeta-
bles and herbs from the kitchen gardens give
an outstanding adventure of tastes and
textures in the Burlington restaurant.At the Devonshire Health Barn, it’s all about
you, your good health and wellbeing. Relax
completely and let an Elemis treatment work its
magic. You’ll feel rejuvenated and wonderfully
invigorated. Elemis spa therapies are designed
to respect the body’s complex physiology, and
to work in natural synergy with your skin.
You can win a one-night break for two at The
Devonshire Arms, including overnight accom-
modation in a suite, an eight-course Michelin
star tasting menu with the sommelier’s choice of
wine, and two 30-minute spa treatments, worth
over £425. The prize is valid Sunday-Thursdayuntil May 18, 2012 and excludes Christmas,
New Year and Valentine’s Day.
Visit www.thedevonshirearms.co.uk for
more information.
how to enterTo WIN a one-night stay for two at The Devon-
shire Arms, simply answer this question:
Question:On which estate is The Devonshire
Arms?
To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.ukand click on the Competitions button. Closing
date is November 18, 2011. See website for
terms & conditions.
P h o t o s : D e v o n s h i r e H o t e l s
n The Devonshire Arms exterior
n Michelin-star food
WIN a £425 Michelin dinner and spa stay at
The Devonshire Arms
n New Wingbedroom
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28 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
uk uncovered nbritain’s spa towns
Bathing beautiesFashionable, elegant and promising to cure all manner of ailments with their
mineral-rich springs, the UK’s spa towns have been attracting the well-heeled
for centuries. John Law takes the waters and examines some of the bestsurviving examples from the golden age of spa tourism
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They started with the Romans, became the
height of fashion in Georgian times and
enjoyed a further renaissance under the
health-obsessed Victorians. Modern medicine
killed off most of Britain’s spa bathing and
treatment centres by the middle of the last
century, but the elegant towns that grew around them
remain agreeable places to visit.
bath
Take the plunge for a new perspective on Georgian
Bath. Whether it’s a sizzling summer’s day or a freez-ing night in February, bobbing around in the warm
outdoor pool atop the city’s Thermae Spa is a great
way to relax after shopping or footslogging on the
tourist trail.
Gazing across rooftops to the Abbey and green hills
beyond, today’s Bath bathers can thank poor King
Bladud and the Romans for discovering the therapeutic
benefits of the hot, mineral-rich waters. Legend has it
the hot springs cured the Celtic king of his leprosy, while
the Romans later built a great temple and magnificent
bath-house dedicated to the goddess Minerva.
The restored Roman Baths are now among the UK’s
top tourist attractions. You can’t bathe there, but theydraw almost one million visitors a year and many pop
next door afterwards to the elegant Georgian Pump
Rooms for lunch or tea, or a glass of the reputedly
healthy but weird-tasting water from the spa fountain.
Bath became a leading spa resort during its 18th
century heyday, when those famous sweeping crescents,
elegant squares and parks were developed. Last
year, 4.5 million visitors flocked there for the
grand architecture and first-rate shopping –
and to enjoy a session at the country’s only
remaining thermal baths.
Opened in the city-centre five years ago,
the striking Thermae Bath Spa buildings
combine classic Georgian architecture with
modern glass and steel. There are four pools
fed by the natural hot springs, steam rooms
infused with frankincense, eucalyptus and other essential
oils, treatment rooms and a restaurant.
royal tunbridge wells
Feeling listless and in need of a tonic? The nearest spa
town to London – and the only one in the South East –
is Royal Tunbridge Wells, where a glass of iron-rich
water from the Chalybeate Spring might liven you up.
The source was discovered in 1606 and, by Georgian
times, the Kent town was a favourite among royalty and
nobility as a place to see and be seen. Notable imbibers
of the great cure-all included Queen Anne and QueenVictoria, Samuel Pepys and Daniel Defoe.
Today, Tunbridge Wells is a prosperous commuter
town surrounded by glorious Wealden countryside.
Those taking the £4 town tour are shown the original
village area around the Grove, the shops in the historic
colonnaded Pantiles, old lodging houses on Mount
Ephraim, pretty clapboard cottages, elegant Regency
villas and grand Victorian homes. They finish with a
reviving glass of the Chalybeate water, often served by a
“dipper” in traditional costume.
harrogate
Spa buildings don’t come much grander than the
ornately-styled Royal Baths, home of Harrogate’s Turk-
ish Baths and Health Spa. The great Islamic arches,
vibrant glazed brickwork, arabesque painted ceilings
and terrazzo floors still provide exotic surroundings in
which to relax.
Discovery of the springs of Harrogate
dates back about four centuries and the
Royal Baths, which opened in 1897,
claimed to be the world’s most
advanced centre for hydrotherapy. In
addition to the Turkish baths, there
were mud baths and steam rooms and
medicinal waters on offer. Intrepid
Victorians could sign up to a range of
bizarre treatments, such as the Plombiere
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 29
uk uncovered nbritain’s spa towns
n ThermaeBath Spa
n The Inner Space,Thermae Bath Spa
n Dippers at theChalybeate Spring
n ThePantiles,RoyalTunbridgeWells
B a t h T o u r i s m P l u s / C o l i n H a w k i n s
Thermae Bath Spa
T u n b r i d g e W e l l s B o r o u g h C o u n c i l / C h r i s P a r k e r
T u n b r i d g e W e l l s B o r o u g h C o u n c i l / M i k e B a r t l e t t
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douche, the Schnee electric hydrotherapy bath, saline
sulphur and peat baths.Harrogate is unique as a spa town because of its vari-
ety of mineral waters. The saline sulphur bath was
prescribed by the consulting doctors as good for gout,
rheumatism and hepatic disorders, while the alkaline
sulphur water was used for skin diseases.
Modern medicine and technology hastened the
closure of the treatment centre in 1969, but a two-year
£10 million redevelopment of the Royal Baths started in
2002 restored the building to its former glory. Today’s
visitors can still luxuriate in the Turkish Baths and book
various pampering sessions.
Those interested in the history of this attractive North
Yorkshire town can visit the Royal Pump Room Museumto see the old sulphur well and sample the spa water. The
beautiful Valley Gardens – with their own mineral springs
– are a great place to relax, while active types can
go walking, climbing, fishing or wildlife-spot-
ting on the nearby Yorkshire Dales.
cheltenham
The first Cheltenham guide in 1781
described a visit as “a journey of health
and pleasure”. The natural springs had
only been discovered a few years earlier and
when King George III spent five weeks taking
the waters there in 1788 the Cotswold town’s reputation
took off as one of the country’s most fashionable spas.
The Duke of Wellington, suffering from a dodgy
liver, gave Cheltenham further prominence when he
visited early in the 19th century. The ensuing building
boom saw the development of sweeping, classicalterraces and squares, elegant villas set in landscaped
estates and broad, tree-lined walks.
Cheltenham retains its elegant architecture and claims
to be England’s most complete Regency town. A must-
see attraction is the magnificent, colonnaded and domed
Pittville Pump Room, set amid the gardens and orna-
mental lakes of Pittville Park.
Here the cream of Regency and Victorian society
would attend grand balls and take the medicinal waters.
It is still used as a venue for entertainment and weddings
– and the water continues to be pumped up from a well
80ft below.
Cheltenham spa water is claimed to be the only natu-ral consumable alkaline variety in Britain, its chief
action being antacid and mildly diuretic. It’s also laxative
– an important consideration for imbibers planning a
subsequent visit to the town’s stylish shops, or its
renowned horse-racing, music or literature festivals.
buxton
Buxton in Derbyshire has some of the country’s purest
spring water, which can be sampled, free of charge,
from a well dating back to the Middle Ages. St Ann’s
Well was visited in Tudor times by Mary Queen of
Scots when she was held captive at nearby Chatsworth.Before that, the Romans built baths here served by the
warm springs which emerge at a constant 28ºC.
The town’s attraction as a spa resort gathered
pace in the late 18th century, when the f ifth
Duke of Devonshire built the Crescent
alongside St Ann’s Well. Thermal baths
and more fine buildings were added and
the railway’s arrival in 1863 ushered in a
golden age.
Buxton’s thermal baths closed in the
1950s and today’s visitors are drawn by the
annual arts festivals, the ornate Edwardian
opera house and the Peak District countryside.
30 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
uk uncovered nbritain’s spa towns
spa hotelsNone of Britain’s grand, old hotels still offer
authentic mineral water baths and
treatments, although several new ones are on
the drawing board.
Bath’s planned five-star Gainsborough
Hotel will feature its own thermal baths near
the city’s Thermae Bath Spa, although the
project is much delayed. Also at the planning
stage is major redevelopment of Buxton’s
magnificent old Crescent building as a five-
star hotel offering thermal spa treatments.
Meanwhile, visitors to Bath seeking
accommodation with an on-site modern spa
book properties such as the five-star, 18th
century Macdonald Bath Spa. In Buxton, Old
Hall is reputed to be England’s oldest hotel
and entertained Mary Queen of Scots when
she sampled the waters. The Barcelo Palace
is an imposing Victorian hotel built when
Buxton’s spa tourism was booming.
The Cottage in the Wood is a historic
hotel built in the hillside near Malvern’s Holy
Well, while the Malvern Hotel is a modern
property with an award-winning spa.
Fine Georgian and Regency buildings which
once enjoyed a thriving trade from visitors
taking the waters include The George in
Cheltenham, The Spa in Tunbridge Wells, the
recently-refurbished Crown in Harrogate,
and The Angel, a former Leamington coaching
inn.
One of Droitwich’s more popular hotels is
St Andrews Town Hotel, built as the town
clerk’s house in 1820.
The Metropole in Llandrindod Wells was
the largest hotel in Wales when it opened in
the 1890s with its own spa treatment centre.
That closed in 1972 but the hotel, now a
four-star property, does offer a modern spa.
“Cheltenhamretains its
elegantarchitectureand claims to be England’smostcompleteRegency
town”
n Buxton has someof the country’spurest spring water
n Temple, Buxton
V i s i t P e a k D i s t r i c t & D
e r b y s h i r e
Visit Peak District & Derbyshire
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tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 201132
Welcome to the Peak District’s
nest hotel & spa...
It’s ofcial, the peak districts nest is now a four star hotel. set in the
heart of the Peak District National Park,Losehill House Hotel & Spais awarded 4 stars by the AA for its quality and hospitality.
The Hotel occupies a secluded spot on the side of Lose Hill with
stunning views overlooking Win Hill. Drive along a little lane near
Hope, equidistant from the wonderful villages of Castleton and Edale,
and join us in the midst of some of the best walking and outdoor
activity countryside in Derbyshire.
Check out www.losehillhouse.co.uk or contact us on 01433 621 219
for our midweek rates and special offers or spa breaks and enjoy the
very best of the Peak District for yourself - hill top to hot tub!
Lose Hill Lane Hope Derbyshire S33 6AF01433 621 219 www.losehillhouse.co.uk
RESTAURANT SPA & POOL LUXURY ROOMS WEDDINGS CONFERENCES & EVENTS
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royal leamington spa
Impressive claims were made for the spa treatment at
Leamington’s Royal Pump Rooms and Baths when they
opened in 1814. Relief from a huge number of disorders
was claimed – including “stiffness of tendons”, “rigidity
of the joints”, and “the effects of gout and rheumatism
and various paralytic conditions”.
Leamington was a small Warwickshire agricultural
village until about 1800, when it started to exploit the
money-spinning potential of its mineral springs. Princess
(later Queen) Victoria was among those sampling the
saline waters and the place grew rapidly into an elegant
town of fine Regency and Victorian architecture and
beautiful gardens.
Visitors can no longer use the baths, but they can
taste the salty spring water from outside the Pump
Rooms and enjoy the rich legacy of the spa boom. The
restored Pump Rooms are home to the Assembly Rooms
and Conservatory, art gallery, library and tea rooms, and the museum tells the story of the town’s spa treatments.
Jephson Gardens, which gained prominence for its
promenading, croquet, tennis, fountains, illuminations
and military bands, has been restored with a Heritage
Lottery Fund grant and is now a Victorian oasis with a
sub-tropical glasshouse and restaurant.
malvern
Take a walk in the glorious Malvern Hills in Worcester-
shire and there’s no need to pack a day’s supply of water
along with your sarnies. There are plenty of wells
providing that famous refreshing water – if you know
where to look.
Tucked away in valleys are Holy Well and St Ann’s
Well, where a café offers more refreshment. Elsewhere
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 33
uk uncovered nbritain’s spa towns
signature spa treatments
Imagine floating dreamily in warm mineralwaters that fell as rain 10,000 years ago
while being gently stretched and massaged.
You’d be hard pressed to find anything more
relaxing, claims the Thermae Bath Spa, whose
signature 50-minute Watsu treatment
soothes in the restored Georgian Hot Bath.
With eyes closed, it’s easy to nod off while
the therapist guides your body through a series
of flowing movements. It costs £60 and is ideal
for easing a stiff or aching back and limbs.
Signature treatments at Harrogate’s Turkish
Baths start off with an appropriately-Turkish
ritual in a room scented with exotic candles.The warmed candle oil with shea butter is
then decanted and massaged into the body
during the 75-minute Eastern Temptation
option, costing £65.
For an extra £20 you can book an Eastern
Indulgence, which also includes a delicate
exfoliating full body polish with jojoba and
shea butter.
n The frigidariumat HarrogateTurkish Baths
n The pumprooms atRoyal Leamington Spa
n The hot bath atThermae Bath Spa
B r i t a i n o n v i e w / M a r t i n B r e n t
T h e r m a e B a t h S p a
W a r w i c k D i s t r i c t C o u n c i l
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are many more springs, some restored, such as the
Beauchamp Spout and the Malvhina Fountain.
Two doctors brought hydrotherapy from Austria and
built the first water cure house in Malvern in 1845. You
can no longer take the spa treatments but many impres-
sive buildings from that era are still in use as public
offices. The Council House, for example, provided theoriginal consulting rooms in Victorian times.
George Bernard Shaw and Edward Elgar brought
Malvern into the 20th century with their theatre and
music festivals held in the Winter Gardens. The town’s
cultural life continues to thrive, with the restored Edwar-
dian theatre attracting top-class drama, ballet and opera
and the Forum Theatre is a top music venue.
The medieval Abbey Gateway houses Malvern’s
Museum, which gives an insight into the region’s geol-
ogy and spa history.
droitwich
While other spa towns may boast of kings and queens
taking a therapeutic dip, Droitwich has the distinction
of hosting footballing royalty. In the 1970s, the entire
Manchester United team took a brine bath – a treatment
claimed to be particularly beneficial for those with
rheumatic conditions.
The Worcestershire town made its fortune from salt
and the natural brine springs have been used for bathing
since Roman times. St Richard’s House in the town
centre was the frontage to the old Brine Baths which
closed in 1974. Another facility opened 11 years later as
part of Droitwich Spa Hospital. Sadly this has now
closed but private investors currently have plans todevelop new brine baths.
Meanwhile, swimmers can enjoy a dip in the briny at
the town’s 1930s outdoor Lido, which reopened four
years ago. The natural brine is denser than the Dead Sea
but at the pool it is diluted to the density of sea water.
34 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
uk uncovered nbritain’s spa towns
spa towns facts
Bath-based travel journalist John Law advises enjoying
tea at the Pump Roomsbut to go easy glugging thestrange-tasting spa water.
llandrindod wells
The Romans were the first to enjoy the health benefits
of bathing in Llandrindod’s saline-sulphur spring water
and by the mid-1700s the town was described as “the
Queen of Welsh Watering Places”.
It then fell out of fashion until the coming of the
Central Wales Railways in 1865, when Llandrindod’s spa
business took off. Hotels, apartments, new treatment
centres, two pavilions, a golf course, bowling and putting
greens and a 14-acre boating lake were built to cater for
80,000 visitors a year.
The town no longer provides spa treatments, although
visitors continue to enjoy many of the 19th century
attractions. Today, Llandrindod is best known for its
annual Drama and Victorian festivals, but there are plans
to develop the former Rock Park Spa and to provide a
hydrotherapy centre.
spa towns and spa facilitiesBath www.visitbath.co.uk
Thermae Bath Spa www.thermaebathspa.com
Roman Baths and Pump Room, Bath
www.romanbaths.co.uk
Droitwich www.droitwichspa.com
Buxton www.peakdistrictinformation.com
Cheltenham www.visitcheltenham.com
Harrogate www.harrogate.gov.uk/turkishbaths
Malvern www.visitthemalverns.org
Llandrindod Wells www.llandrindod.co.uk
Royal Tunbridge Wells www.visittunbridgewells.com
Royal Leamington Spa www.royal-leamington-spa.co.uk
hotelsBath Macdonald Bath Spa: www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/bathspa;
Best Western Centurion Hotel: www.centurionhotel.co.uk
Malvern The Malvern: www.themalvernspa.com;
The Cottage in the Wood: www.cottageinthewood.co.uk
Droitwich St Andrews Town Hotel: www.st-andrewshotel.com
Leamington The Angel: www.angelhotelleamington.co.uk
Buxton Old Hall: www.oldhallhotelbuxton.co.uk; Losehill House
Hotel: www.losehillhouse.co.uk; Barcelo Palace:
www.barcelo-hotels.co.uk
Cheltenham The George: www.stayatthegeorge.co.uk
Harrogate The Crown:
www.crownhotelharrogate.com
Llandrindod Wells The Metropole: www.metropole.co.uk
Tunbridge Wells The Spa:
www.spahotel.co.uk
packagesSuperbreak: www.superbreak.com
Expedia: www.expedia.co.uk
Shearings Holidays: www.shearings.com
n The gloriousMalvern Hills
n The RomanBaths, Bath
n The Pantiles Colonnadeat Tunbridge Wells
B r i t a i n o n v i e w / P e t e S e a w
a r d
v i s i t b a t h . c o . u
k
T u n b r i d g e W e l l s B o r o u g h C o u n c i l / C h r i s P a r k e r
WIN a pair of Thermae Bath Spa vouchersWe have teamed up with Thermae Bath Spa to give away a pair
of four-hour spa session vouchers, including hire of towels, robes
and slippers, worth £88. You will have access to the open-air
rooftop pool, with its views over the city of Bath, as well as the
large Minerva thermal bath and the fabulous steam rooms. Go to
www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on Competitions. Terms
and conditions apply. Closing date November 18, 2011.
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Autumn 2011 tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 35
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I pushed open the heavy, wooden door and immedi-ately recognised the cracked marble staircase, the
crumbling ornate pillars, and the fading homage
to Fidel painted on the wall. In 1994, this tene-
ment building in central Havana was turned into a
film set for
Tomás
Gutiérrez Alea’s internationally-acclaimed, Fresa yChocolate (Strawberry and Chocolate), a picture I
studied almost a decade later at university.
Three flights up a dark staircase hides La Guarida –
the den or hideaway – where much of the movie was
filmed. It was home to a gay man called Diego, one of
the main characters. His apartment was an Aladdin’s
Cave of illicit art, literature and trinkets, all prohibited by
the regime.
The film was so successful that tourists arrived in
36 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
Viva the new
revolution Cuba is embracing the post-Fidel era with investment in the tourist sector continuing apace, yet it
remains largely steadfast to its revolutionary principles. Martin Ferguson finds out why this
unique land of paradoxes continues to entice
off the beaten track ncuba
cuba tipsl Native Cubans use
the Cuban peso, but
tourists must use the
convertible peso
(CUC or CUC$)
which is valued
against the dollar. Do
not try and exchange
money outside of
your hotel or the
airport. Dollars aresometimes accepted,
but it is not
considered official
currency.
l Cuba has extremely
low crime levels.
Police constantly
monitor locals in
tourist areas.
However, there are a
number of beggars,
especially in Havana.
Keep valuables in
your hotel room
safe.
l Toiletries and many
medicines are in
short supply, so you
are advised to take
adequate supplies.
l There are many
quality arts and crafts
markets across the
country, but beware of
buying rum and cigars
from anywhere other
than official vendors,
as you may be getting
dangerously-poor
products.
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Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 37
off the beaten track ncuba
their droves searching for this clandestine paradise. The
real owner, Enrique Nuñez del Valle, saw an opportunity.
Using the original props as decor, he opened a paladar –
a dining experience unique to Cuba, where families open
private restaurants in their own front rooms – named
after the movie (www.laguarida.com ). I’d spent somuch time analysing the iconography and symbolism of
La Guarida, it was truly surreal to be sitting in the very
same apartment gorging on the best food Cuba had to
offer. But then again, walking through the streets of
Havana you could be forgiven for thinking you were on
the world’s largest film set.
That said, the notion that Cuba is locked in a time
warp is becoming somewhat outdated. Since El Coman-
dante, Fidel Castro, transferred power to his brother Raul
in 2006, there has been modest socio-economic
progress. Cubans, for example, can now own computers
and mobile phones. Access is restricted, but there has
been enough online liberty to fuel a cultural upheaval.Cubans can now also stay in hotels that were once the
private enclaves of foreign guests.
old cadillacs
But thankfully for tourists, there are more than
enough superficial oddities. One can still marvel at
the clapped-out Pontiacs, Buicks, Fords and
Cadillacs that chug their way noisily
through the pot-hole ridden streets (you
can usually book a classic car journey at your hotel
reception).
It’s a similar story in relation to housing. While much
is invested in constructing and restoring hotels, most of
the grandiose baroque and neo-colonial buildings are
dilapidated and, often, literally falling down.I was treated to a fairly standard itinerary during a
recent visit: Revolution Square, the Havana Club rum
museum, La Habana Vieja (Old Havana) and Ernest
Hemingway’s favourite watering hole, El Floridita. These
should be on every visitor’s “to do” list.
You don’t have to look too hard, however, to find
something off the beaten track. For starters, forego the
lure of the luxury hotels, and bunk up with a Cuban
family for a few days. The casa particular is a similar
concept to that of the paladar. It provides the tourist with
an authentic Cuban experience, and allows some natives
to live above the breadline. Expect to pay between
£5 and £80 per night.Cigar smoking is as synonymous with Cuban
culture as salsa, and tobacco plantations and
factories are littered across the country. But
the guided tour at the Partagas factory in
central Havana should not be missed,
unless you suffer from a respiratory
illness.
You’ll need to clear your lungs with
a blast of fresh air, so walk directly to
“Walkingthrough thestreets of
Havana youcould beforgiven for thinking youwere on theworld’s largestfilm set”
n Catedral de la Habana inHavana old town
Cuba Tourist Board
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the Malecón, the concrete promenade that stretches some
eight miles along the sea front. In the morning, you’ll see
no more than a few amateur fishermen with homemade
rods, but from late afternoon it becomes a hive of activity
and a haven for people watching.
world heritage siteTo escape the humid bustle of Havana, go to the central
station and catch the Hershey train – built in 1917 by the
famous American chocolate manufacturer to transport
workers from the capital to Matanzas. Then switch linesand move on to Santa Clara, 270km east of the capital.
What this city lacks in architectural beauty it makes
up for in history, culture and lively nightlife. It was also
the site of one of the most significant moments in Cuban
history – the battle of Santa Clara. In late 1958, Che
Guevara and his guerilla army used a bulldozer to derail
a train carrying supplies and reinforcements for Batista’s
army. They went on to capture the city, and less than 12
hours later Batista fled the country. A short walk from
the main square is the site where the attack took place,
and the bulldozer and fallen train carriages remain
preserved in the same spot. A mile out of town is the
Che Guevara museum and mausoleum.A two-hour drive south is the colonial outpost, Trinidad
de Cuba. Its museums and beaches are a huge draw for
tourists. In 1988, UNESCO made this architectural jewel a
World Heritage Site. The highlight for most is a visit to the
Manaca-Iznaga tower, which commands stunning views
over the coastline and the Valley of the Mills.
resortsCuba’s modern resorts tend to receive most government
investment. The Cayos, especially Cayo Coco, are ideal
for those looking for heat, good food and some peace
and quiet. My father-in-law visits once a year, and
insists it’s the best part of the island.
Further west along the northern coast is Varadero, the
largest and busiest of the resorts. It’s big, bustling, and
not to everyone’s taste. But it is best placed for those
38 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
off the beaten track ncuba
music in havanaCubans walk as if they are dancing. Around
every corner you’ll see musicians in the
street and hear the pulsating beat of salsaor son coming from every window.
Unsurprisingly, the capital is awash with
quality music and dance venues:
l La Zorra y el Cuervo: On La Rampa,
close to the Havana Libre hotel, it is
considered one of the best jazz
nightclubs in Havana. The entrance is a
red British telephone box. Doors open
at 9pm, music is played from 1130pm
until 3am. The pay-at-the-door cover
charge is usually 10 CUC.
l Casa de la Musica de Centro
Habana: On Galiano Street, it is one of the largest dance venues in the city.
There is usually a live afternoon show
from 4pm till 11pm before it becomes
an all-night disco after 1am. The cover
charge depends on the quality of the act,
but is generally 5-10 CUC.
l La Madriguera: On the corner of
Salvador Allende and Luaces, the home
to the Cuban union of writers and
artists is a hotbed of musical and artistic
innovation. Entry costs 5 CUC. Opening
times are 9am-7pm daily except
Thursday, when it is open until midnight. C u b a T o u r i s t B o a r d
C u b a T o u r i s t B o a
r d
Cuba Tourist Board
n Havana isawash withmusic and
dance venues
n The colonial outpostof Trinidad de Cuba
n Rum
andpineapple
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Autumn 2011 tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 39
Contact us for expert advice on this unique destination
Tel: 01707 646463 Email: [email protected] www.havanatour.co.uk
Havantour has over 30 yearsexperience in arranging travel in Cuba.Celebrating 15 years in our UK office
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40 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
off the beaten track ncuba
wanting to combine beach-time with day trips to the
cities and countryside.
Pinar del Rio, on the west side of the island, is only a
few hours drive away. Known as the garden of Cuba, it
boasts some of the island’s most impressive landscapes
and wildlife, including the country’s red, white and blue
national bird, the Tocororo. And, like much of rural and
coastal Cuba, there are scores of outdoor activities inwhich to indulge, including trekking, snorkelling and
scuba diving. Just to the north lies the Viñales Valley and
its impressive El Indio limestone caves.
Rumours that the US’s softening stance on Cuba will
soon lead to an invasion of tourists seem somewhat
premature. As recently as July, President Obama was
under Congressional pressure to
uphold existing laws.
However, the paralysing
embargo is sure to
come to an end sooner
rather than later, open-
ing Cuba up to American
tourists. I recommend
you get there before it
does.
cuba facts
At only 31, journalist Martin Ferguson has already
experienced some of the world’s most fascinatingdestinations. But he regularly tells family and friends that
Havana is the one city they must see before they die.
when to goCuba enjoys 330 days of sunshine a year.
The rainy season – which often bringsviolent storms and occasionally
hurricanes – runs from May to October.
The dry season, therefore, is from
November to April.
getting there
There are scheduled flights from London
Gatwick to Holguin and Havana with Cubana Airlines
(www.cubana.cu) and Virgin Atlantic (www.virgin-atlantic.com).
Air Europa (www.aireuropa.com) flies from Gatwick to Havana via
Madrid. Charter flights with Thomas Cook Airlines
(www.thomascookairlines.com)and Thomson Airways
(www.thomsonfly.com) go to Varadero, Cayo Coco, Santa Clara andHolguin.
getting aroundHire cars are available at airports.
Drivers must be at least 21. Public
transport is safe, but often extremely
busy and unreliable. Taxis are a cheap
and safe way to get around.
accommodationThe pick of Havana’s hotels include the
imposing, twin-towered Hotel Nacional
(www.hotelnacionaldecuba.com)and the Hotel Saratoga(www.hotel-saratoga.com) . While Hotel Playa Pesquero
(www.hotelplayapesquerocuba.com) is the stand-out resort in
Holguin, the Blau Hotel (www.blauhotels.com) in Varadero and Tryp
Cayo Coco should also be considered. For casas particulars, visit The
Casa Particular organisation (www.casaparticularcuba.org).
tour operators
Specialists include Captivating Cuba
(www.captivatingcuba.com), Cuba
Direct (www.cubadirect.co.uk) ,
Havanatur (www.havanatur.com),
Headwater (www.headwater.com)
and Journey Latin America
(www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk) .
Mainstream operators include Thomas Cook
(www.thomascook.com) , Thomson Holidays
(www.thomson.co.uk) and Virgin Holidays
(www.virginholidays.com) .
tourist informationCuba Tourist Board:
www.travel2Cuba.co.uk
C u b a T o u r i s t B o a r d
C u b a T o u r i s t B o a r d
C u b a T o u r i s t B o a r d
C a p t i v a t i n g C u b a
H e a d w a t e r H o l i d a y s
M a n u e l R i v e i r o
n Varadero is Cuba’sbiggest resort
n BusyHavana
n Book a classiccar at your hotel
n Havana’sRevolution Square
n Horse ridingat Viñales
nCigar factoriesare on thetourist circuit
nBackground picture: Cayo CocoCuba Tourist Board
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If your idea of a butler springs from the pages of
Jeeves and Wooster, you may be surprised to learn
you don’t have to be a member of the aristocracy
to enjoy such personal service – it could come as
part of your holiday. While a hotel butler may not
be standing by to put toothpaste on your brush, as
one of Prince Charles’ staff was rumoured to do, they
can help with chores, such as unpacking and pressing
your clothes, or treats like running you a flower-strewn
bath at an allotted time.
When the Savoy reopened last October following an
ambitious £100 million refurbishment, it introduced anew generation of butlers. This elite task force will
tackle a range of jobs including completing guests’ busi-
ness expense forms and helping them dress for dinner.
There’s even a green butler to advise on all things eco-
friendly in London. Prices for a suite for the night with
butler service start at around £1,100 plus VAT, though
it’s worth looking out for packages.
In recent years, a wide range of more mainstream
hotels have added complimentary butler service for
higher room categories. And it’s not only business trav-
ellers who are the target; many beach resorts have
introduced butlers to help guests mark a special occa-
sion, or simply get maximum
relaxation from their holiday.
The Savoy is managed by Fairmont
At your
Being waited on hand and foot isn’t purely the preserve of the landed
gentry. Many hotels and even cruise ships now offer butler service or
concierge floors, while you can also indulge yourself with a personal
shopper or chauffeur/guide, asDebbie Ward
reports
a touch of class nbutlers and personal service
butler and chauffeur tipsl Butler service may be included in your room rate but a tip is usually
expected at the end of your stay.
l Preference forms on your hotel’s website, or sent by email, help your
butler prepare for your visit. If you’re not using butler service, you may still be
able to select from pillow menus or choose the scent or flowers you’d like in
your room.
l If you travel independently, compare the cost of car hire to booking a tour with
a personal driver; the chauffeur option, which often includes entrance fees, may
prove competitive.
42 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
service
The Savoy
n Green butler at The Savoy
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Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 43
a touch of class nbutlers and personal service
Hotels & Resorts, which has butler service at several
properties. The Fairmont Royal Pavilion, Barbados even
has “beach butlers” who’ll deliver drinks and nibbles and
fetch items from your room. St Regis is another chain
with butlers. They’ll wake you with morning tea and newspapers and spring to other requests made by email.
Caribbean all-inclusive chain Sandals now has butler
service as standard with its top-tier suites. The staff can
be summoned from a dedicated mobile phone to unpack
your luggage, serve you dinner in your suite, shine your
shoes and press your clothes. They’ll also organise your
stay, making all your spa, tour and dinner reservations
and reconfirming your flights before departure. A one-
bedroom honeymoon suite with butler service at Sandals
Emerald Bay in the Bahamas currently costs from
£2,999 per person for a week’s all-inclusive in high
season, including flights.
far eastOn a smaller scale, Serene Pavilions, a boutique beach
hotel at Wadduwa, Sri Lanka, opened two years ago with
an all-butler concept. Serene has just 12 large villas which
cost from around £295 per night including breakfast.
They’re full of mod cons, including remote-controlled
blinds, but if the effort of pressing a button wears you out,
your 24-hour butler can step in to ease your stay.
“Butlers help guests to unpack their baggage, organ-
ise their meals, provide all the services requested by
them and basically follow them without interrupting
their privacy,” explains Serene Pavilions chief executive
Anura Lokuhetty. “They’ll even organise meetings with
the chef to decide on the menu and locations for their
meals, as we provide several options.”
Elsewhere in Asia, the Nam Hai hotel in Vietnam
beach resort Hoi An recently called in the Guild of
Professional English Butlers to train its staff for three
months. The guild, which also trains Sandals’ butlers,
notes Caribbean and Far East hotels are particularly keen
to add this personal service. Among many others, it hasalso trained butlers at London’s Lanesborough and North
Island, in the Seychelles – honeymoon destination of
Prince William and Kate Middleton.
The guild has seen a boom in hotels seeking its serv-
ices. “I’ve been training butlers in hotels for 15 years and
chauffeursBeing chauffeured on your holiday may seem an A-list extravagance but several
tour operators, including Kirker Holidays, Kuoni and Regent Holidays, offer tailor-
made touring itineraries with private driver/guides. It may even be a practical
choice for independent travel in destinations where road or vehicle safety is an
issue.
In the UK and Ireland, Dream Escapes can arrange private journeys by fun and
fabulous transport including sports cars, helicopters and seaplanes.
personal shoppersIn cities famous for retail therapy, many top-end hotels offer paid or complimentary
personal shoppers. In Bangkok, for instance, Banyan Tree has a free shopping
companion who’ll hit the malls and markets for three hours with you, while until
December 31, Hansar Bangkok is offering a free shopping ambassador in
conjunction with department store Siam Paragon.
In Marrakech, where haggling is key, paying a personal shopper could even save
you money; tour operator Fleewinter can set you up with one.
Major department stores including New York’s Macy’s and Bloomingdales also
offer personal shopper services.
personal service with local experts
M S C C r u i s e s
F a i r m o n t H o t e l s &
R e s o r t s
n The Fairmont Royal Pavilion,Barbados, provides beach butlers
n Relaxing in thespa on MSC Fantasia
“It’s verymuch
tailoring theservice to suitthe guest”
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it’s increased year on year so now almost every type of
hotel has some form of butler service,” says Guild presi-
dent Robert Watson. “It’s almost a guest expectation
these days; it’s not restricted to the luxury five-star
market.
“The most important thing is to treat the guests as
individuals and that’s very much the essence of my train-ing. They may want you to be smiling, bubbly or ‘yes’,
‘no,’ ‘there you are’. It’s very much tailoring the service
to suit the guest.”
Cruise lines, too, are committed to butler service,
most now offering it with higher-grade suites. MSC
Cruises’ butlers, for instance, can be paged round-the-
clock to take care of laundry and shoe shining, make
priority bookings for restaurants, tender access and
excursions. They’ll even arrange for onboard boutiques
to open exclusively for you.
concierge floors and servicesIf you don’t want to splash out on the full butler experi-ence, concierge floors (also called club or executive
floors) in both hotels and cruise ships can be a good
compromise.
Though perks vary, these upgraded levels usually
have a lounge for breakfast, drinks and snacks, better
room facilities, and dedicated check-in and concierge
desks. Many major hotel chains including Fairmont,
Ritz-Carlton and Starwood offer such floors and, more
surprisingly, some Disney hotels do as well.
The hotel concierge, who helps with reservations and
local advice, is a familiar concept but nowadays not all
such services are desk-bound.
Thinking of popping the question on holiday? At CapMaison, St Lucia a proposal concierge will help you do
it in style, perhaps with the ring sent down a zipwire to
an offshore dining deck. And if you don’t fancy lugging
your skis to the airport, how about sending them ahead
to your chalet with ski concierge service Piste of Mind?
Upmarket tour operators, among them Kirker Holi-
days, Audley Travel and Abercrombie & Kent, also offer
concierge services, booking ballet tickets, behind-the-
scenes tours, that special restaurant or a family party so
the highlights of your trip are already in place when you
arrive.
44 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
a touch of class nbutlers and personal service
personal service facts
Debbie Ward has been a travel journalist for 12 years. Sheonce hired a private driver when she and her partnertoured Sri Lanka to chauffeur them between cultural
highlights – a luxury she could get used to.
butler servicehotels
Fairmont Hotels: www.fairmont.comSt Regis Hotels: www.starwoodhotels.com/stregis
The Savoy: www.fairmont.com/savoy
Lanesborough, London: www.lanesborough.com
The Connaught, London: www.the-connaught.co.uk
Macdonald Bath Spa Hotel: www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/bathspa
Sandals: www.sandals.co.uk
Serene Pavilions, Sri Lanka: www.serenepavilions.com
Nam Hai, Vietnam: www.thenamhai.com
North Island, Seychelles: www.north-
island.com
Half Moon, Jamaica:
www.halfmoon.rockresorts.com
The Chatwal, New York: www.thechatwalny.com
Bellagio, Las Vegas: www.bellagio.com
For more see:
www.guildofbutlers.com/client.php
cruise linesMSC Cruises: www.msccruises.co.uk
Silversea Cruises: www.silversea.com
Celebrity Cruises: www.celebritycruises.com
For more see: www.discovercruises.co.uk
tour operators offering personal drivers and/
or concierge serviceDream Escape: www.dreamescape.co.uk
Kirker Holidays: www.kirkerholidays.com
Regent Holidays: www.regent-holidays.co.uk
Audley Travel: www.audleytravel.co.uk
Kuoni: www.kuoni.co.uk
The Private Travel Company: www.theprivatetravelcompany.co.uk
TransIndus: www.Transindus.co.uk
Abercrombie & Kent: www.abercrombiekent.com
Cox & Kings: www.coxandkings.co.uk
hotels with concierge floorsStarwood Hotels:
www.starwoodhotels.com
Ritz-Carlton: www.ritzcarlton.com
Disney hotels:
www.disneyparks.co.uk
other concierge servicesCap Maison, St Lucia:
www.capmaison.com/proposal-concierge.html
Piste of Mind: www.pisteofmind.com
personal shoppersBanyan Tree: www.banyantree.com
Hansar Bangkok: www.slh.com/hansarbangkok
Fleewinter: www.fleewinter.co.uk/morocco/
Bloomingdales: www.Bloomingdales.com
Macy’s: www.macys.com
S t a r w o o d H o t e l s
M S C C r u i s e s
S a n d a l s
n Butler
service at
Sandals
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tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 201146
*Price correct at time of print and based on the basic cover for an 18 to 65 year oldtravelling to Europe, excludes discount and screened conditions.
Medical screening is available online or over the phone, discount will not apply.Full terms & conditions of cover benets apply. 5% discount closes 31st January 2012.
Staysure.co.uk Ltd is authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority.Registered company No. 436804
*Price correct at time of printand based on the basic cover for an 18 to 65 year oldtravelli g to Europe, excludes discount and screened conditions.
Medical screening is available online or over the phone, discount will not apply.ull terms & conditions of cover benets apply. 5% discount closes 31st Jan ary 2012.
Staysure.co.uk Ltd is authorised and regulated by the Financial Services Authority.egistered company No. 436804
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Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 47
in your nflightbag
The stylish faux-leather
toiletry and travel bags
from Matt & Nat not only
look good, but are good for the
environment too.
Developed by founder and creative director, Inder Bedi – who
was challenged by a mahatma to
become a vegetarian for 30 days,
an act which would have a
profound effect on his life and that
of others – all linings of their bags are made of 100%
recycled plastic bottles; on average, 21 water bottles
are recycled to make the lining of each bag.
Earlier this year, cork labelling inside the bags
was introduced, an innovative material that is envi-
ronmentally sustainable.
The autumn/winter collection includes a range of
bags and wallets in matte black and blue, including
the stylish Braun black weekender and Rogue black
toiletry bag.
Matt & Nat is stocked on ASOS and is available
from Urban Outfitters and independent boutiquesacross the UK. For full details of all their products,
go to www.mattandnat.com.
l For your chance to WIN a Braun weekender worth
£135 and a Rogue toiletry bag worth £55, go to
www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on Competi-
tions. Terms and conditions apply. Closing date
November 13, 2011.
K eeping your sunglasses,
iPod, camera or Kindle
clean and smear-free is
never easy and particularly when
surrounded by sunscreen and ice
cream while on holiday.
A new range of silicon-free
lens care products from Dr Optic
is ideal for travel and provide
quick-drying, smear-free cleaning
for all coated lenses and screens.
Dr Optic’s Optical Lens Wipes,
available in packs of 12 or 24, are
perfect for popping in your
glasses or camera case, while the
travel-sized Lens Cleaner Spray
with microfibre cloth is ideal for
all delicate lens surfaces.
Dr Optic products are available
at all good pharmacies and super-
markets as well as at branches of
John Lewis and Lakeland, with
prices starting from just £1. For
more information, visit
www.droptic.net.
Light
weightessentialsPacking a
flight bag toavoid baggage
check-in is a
chore,
particularly
given the
restrictions on liquids, so
finding skincare products to
suit is essential.
The new Madara Travel Kit
contains five travel-sized beauty
essentials including cleansing
milk, deep balance toner and
regenerating night cream andall products are organic, natural
and eco-friendly.
The Madara range, originally
from Latvia, is available from
Selfridges, Harrods,
Wholefoods and independent
stores nationwide and online
from leading online retailers
including feelunique.com and
lovelula.com.
The Travel Kit is priced at
£6.95; for more information go
to www.madara.co.uk.
Lip salvationChapped lips
are inevitable in
the autumn and
winter months,
and even if you
are heading for
warmer climes,
you need a
reliable lip balm
in your bag to keep your lips
moist and supple throughout
your flight or holiday.
Blistex has been providing lip
care since 1947 and its new Lip
Brilliance product not only has
all the benefits of its best-selling
lip balms but also has a delicate
pink sheen and real silk extracts
and Hyaluronic Filling Spheres
for a fuller lip appearance,
making this a handbag essential.
Lip Brilliance is available from
Boots, at just £2.49; for more
information on Blistex products,
go to www.blistex.co.uk.
Banish
smears
Bags of
bottle
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in your n suitcase
Hair today...Finding room in your suitcase
for those essential
items to keep yourbeauty regime intact,
even while away, is no
longer a problem
thanks to a new range
of mini beauty gadgets from
natural health and beauty pioneer
Club Cleo.
The Goliat Miniature 500w Travel
Dryer has a ready-fitted Euro plug and at
only four inches by four inches in size, it is a
holiday must.
Other products include the Vida Nano-Depil
Mini Epilator, for men and women, the Yaharimanicure/pedicure kit and the ID Italian multi-
treatment beauty and skin massager. Prices start from
£12.50; for more details go to www.club-cleo.com.
Think pink Want to have a good-looking and useful beauty case
that is also doing good? Elemis has
pledged a donation of £10,000 to
Breast Cancer Care from its
Think Pink Beauty Kit,
containing three of its top
skincare products, includinga 30ml Pro-
Collagen Marine
Cream and 15ml
Pro-Collagen Lifting
Treatment for neck and bust in limited edition pink
containers, in a patent pink cube cosmetics bag. Buy
online for £29.90 at www.timetospa.co.uk .
Splash about safely If you are taking your little ones on a late sun break,
they will need to be properly equipped for
the beach and sea. The Splash About
range of clothing has something for
everyone. The fabric of the Safe in
Sun UV protection suit saves the
skin from burning, while the Warm
in Water wetsuit jacket and shorts
with soft neoprene not only gives
sun protection but also gives
added warmth so your
children enjoy swimming
more. Prices start at
£29.99; for more
information and stockist
details go to
www.splashabout.com.
K arrimor, founded in Lancashire in
1946, have been making bags and
equipment for over 60 years, pro-
ducing durable backpacks selected by
some of the world’s most accomplished
mountaineers.
Diversifying into footwear and travel
luggage, the Global range was developed
and the Global Equator 70 wheeled bag,which can also be worn on your shoul-
ders, is a very useful, durable, suitcase.
Weighing 3.2kg, this versatile bag has
a rugged wheel system with two internal
mesh pockets as well as an internal secu-
rity pocket. With lockable zips, side
compression straps and a rigid base, this
bag will suit even the most demanding of
travellers.
The Global Equator 70 costs £100 and
is available from retailers such as Field
and Trek or online from
www.karrimor.com
l For your chance toWIN a Global
Equator 70 worth £100, go to
www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on
Competitions. Terms and conditions
apply. Closing date November 13, 2011.
Functional and fash-
ionable footwear is a
must for late season
breaks and men’s casual
range Fish ‘n’ Chips,
from footwear brand
Base London, has recent-ly launched a mid-top
boot that ticks all the
boxes.
The Shrimp boot
features a thick rubber
sole, a cushioned corduroy
cuff and a twin layer
tongue that can be folded
into the hiking inspired
laces.
Available from leading
high street retailers and
online, Shrimp costs
£49.99; for stockists and
more information, go to
www.baselondon.com.
Carry more,
or less
Hot foot it in Shrimps
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travel n tech
Keep your hands on the steering wheel at
all times on your next motoring trip
with the new, portable Parrot
MINIKIT+ hands-free kit.
The MINIKIT+ manages two Bluetooth-
enabled mobile phones at the same time and is
voice-controlled. So if you have one phone for
personal use and another for business calls, itwill handle calls to either phone, giving differ-
ent ring tones to each one.
The MINIKIT+ also automatically synchro-
nises its phonebook with the two connected
mobile phones, storing up to 2,000 contacts. If
the caller is in the phonebook, it will state their
name and you simply say “accept”
or “reject” to take or refuse the
call. To make a call, just press the
unit’s green button to launch the
voice recognition and say thename of the contact. It then dials
the number automatically.
A vibration sensor switches
the unit back on and reconnects
to phones when you open the
car door. It lets you vocally
manage emails and SMS hands-free,
using the TextFriendlyTM subscription
service which launches soon. Your mobile’s
satnav app instructions can also play through
its integrated loudspeaker.The MINIKIT+ attaches to the sun visor
via an adjustable elastic strap, for when the
visor is up or down.
Available from November, the MRSP is
£64.99.
www.parrot.com
Anew gadget that cancharge all your trav-
el devices is friendly
to the environment, too.
The IDAPT i1 Eco’s
three charging tips will
charge most phones
including iPhone, Black-
berry, Samsung and HTC,
most MP3 players, most
tablets and gizmos such as
satnavs, Amazon’s Kindle,
Xbox controllers and
Nintendo’s 3DS.While other chargers use
power as long as they are
plugged in, the multi-volt-
age IDAPT i1 Eco
automatically shuts power
off – including standby power – when the connected
device is fully charged.
Costing £20, it can be
used in-car and has a USB
power lead for charging
from PC or Mac.www.idaptweb.com
Listen to your favourite music on the
go wirelessly with the new
SoundLink
portable speaker
from Bose. Music
from smartphones
or tablets can be
streamed to give
audio perform-
ance that defies
the speaker’s size. The size of an aver-
age book, its integrated
cover unfolds into a stand
and switches the system off
when closed. The recharge-
able battery typically lasts
eight hours.
Available from Bose
stores and dealers, it costs
from £259. www.bose.co.uk
Eco power
Music to go
Doubletalk
Far sightedBring the world closer to you with the latest
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Weighing just 500g (17oz), the new pocket-sized
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or simply for taking on hikes or outings.
The binoculars have a case and comfortable neck
strap and come in 8x or 10x magnification in green,
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They feature razor-sharp optics and the legendary
quality of the Tyrol-based company, which has been
producing precision optical instruments since 1949.
Available in camera shops and online, the CL
Companion 8x model has an RRP of £790 and the
10x version is £820.
www.swarovskioptik.com
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tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 201152
Relax at theRussell Hotel
Bognor Regis
Kings Parade, Bognor Regis, West Sussex
PO21 2QP Tel. 01243871300
Email: [email protected]
Life doesn't get much more relaxing than a perfect
break by the sea. Put your feet up and enjoy our warm
atmosphere, friendly service and home cooked cuisine.
Or choose from a range of leisure activities, excursions
and entertainment.
Rates from £39pp including dinner, bed and breakfast.
For more information and details of other offers visit
www.visionhotels.co.uk
SOUTH DOWNS WALKINGSHORT BREAKS
Three nights for the price of two!!!!!
The perfect spot to start your holiday, situated in the heart
of the Downs, available for Monday, Tuesday or Wednesdayarrivals, based on 2 people sharing.
As well as this fabulous offer we will also pack you a luncheach day and provide explorer maps for you to use.
Rates from £150 per personSupplements apply for Premier rooms and Suites.
Rates valid from October 2011-April 2012, exclusions apply, subject to availability
THE ANGEL HOTELNorth Street, Midhurst, West Sussex GU29 9DN Tel: 01730 812421
Email: [email protected] www.theangelmidhurst.co.uk
Findon ManorCountry House Hotel & Restaurant
A friendlywelcomeawaitsyouat ourbeautiful EnglishCountryHouse Hotel, locatedin thepicturesqueFindon Village inWestSussex. Beingsituated on theedgeof theSouth Downsmakes FindonManor,the idyllic locationfor summer orwinter breaks toenjoy thecharmingandrelaxingsurroundings. JustofftheA24it is perfectly located for easy access toBrighton,WorthingandArundel.
Whether you stay inone ofour traditionalsuperior roomswith a Jacuzzi, or inoneof ourcontemporarysuites overlookingourstunningsurroundings, youwillfind thatevery roomhas aunique and individual feel. The oak beamsand logfires combinedwithmodernamenitiescreates acontemporaryedgeto thistraditionalbuilding. Finediningis available in ourexcellent TerraceRestaurant,andin ourtraditional ‘Snooty Fox Bar’ alongwith real ales andan extensivewinelist.
UpcomingEvents:
FabulousFridays:• Enjoy 1 night Dinner, BedandBreakfast witha complementarybottleofChampagne.From£130.00...
Christmas 2011Celebrations:We are now taking bookingsfor:• ChristmasFunctions• ChristmasDay Lunch• SpecialChristmasAccommodationPackage
New Year’s Eve 2011Celebrations:
• SpecialNewYear’s EveAccommodation Package• Dinner orBuffet with NewYear’s Eve Party
Available for ALL Special Occasions: Weddings, Christenings, Anniversaries, Lunches,Dinnersand more…
Opento Non Residents
FindonManor Hotel,High Street, Findon, West SussexBN14 0TA 01903 872733Email: [email protected] www.findonmanor.com
More than just a venue...
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Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 53
on your doorstep nsouth downs
As a little girl I spent manya happy hour flying a box
kite at Beachy Head,
going on family walks to
Cuckmere Haven, with its
distinctive oxbow lakes,
and exploring the dramatic roller-
coaster cliffs of the Seven Sisters – tired legs
spurred on by the promise of an ice cream at
the end. These days I tend to take the easier
option, helping friends exercise their horses
on the Downs and through woodland in the
surrounding countryside.
However you choose to travel, it’s a capti-vating area – and I’m not just saying that
because I’m biased. Celebrated author Bill
Bryson described the landscape as “some of
England’s finest” and, in April, a large part of it
was embraced by the South Downs National
Park, the country’s 10th and newest national park.
Covering 628 square miles and stretching 87
miles from Eastbourne in the east to Winchester in the
west, it runs through East Sussex, West Sussex and
Hampshire.
While the name conjures up rolling green down-
land ending at sheer, chalky white cliffs, the landscape
and scenery is diverse, taking in gentle clay hills and
vales, undulating farmland and steep woodland as you
travel towards the eastern corner.n Beachy Head
Britainonview/Rod Edwards
Ups and
DownsEncompassing the country’s newest national park, the
rolling countryside of the South Downs is as
quintessentially English as you will find. Local lass
Jeannine Williamson gives the lowdown on the high
points of this captivating area
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54 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
on your doorstep nsouth downs
In my particular neck of the woods, the picturesque
village of Alfriston is a justifiable magnet for visitors. A
gentle one-mile walk away is Berwick Church, its spire
visible above the trees. No ordinary village church, it is
covered with murals painted by Bloomsbury Group
artists Duncan Grant, Vanessa Bell and Quentin Bell,
who lived at nearby Charleston.
sparkling winesSussex soil, high in chalk and lime, is very similar to
the Champagne region. So much so, many English
sparkling wines produced here are beating their
famous French counterparts in international
competitions. The English Wine Centre
(www.englishwine.co.uk ), on the corner of the
A27 turn-off to Alfriston, is an interesting place to
stop for lunch and browse around the shop, which
stocks wines from throughout the region.
Down the road, in the neighbouring village of
Jevington, is the local culinary institution, the
Hungry Monk (www.hungrymonk.co.uk ), self-
proclaimed birthplace of the Banoffi Pie (look out for
the blue plaque on the wall!).
10 key south downs events
l Beachy Head Marathon
( www.beachyheadmarathon.org.uk ): October
22. One of the biggest, toughest and most scenicoff-road marathons in the UK, runners set off
from Eastbourne at 9am with the first arriving
back less than three hours later.
l Lewes Bonfire Night
( www.lewesbonfirecouncil.org.uk ): November
5. Flaming torches, giant effigies and ear-splitting
bangers are all part of the famous celebrations –
some would say infamous – in the county town of
East Sussex, where bonfire societies compete for
coveted trophies for the best costumes.
l Sussex Christmas: December 26-January 1:
Experience Christmas past in the fascinating
collection of reconstructed historic buildings atthe Weald & Downland Open Air Museum
( www.wealddown.co.uk) at Singleton, near
Chichester.
l Brighton Festival ( www.brightonfestival.org ):
England’s largest international arts festival, spread
over three weeks in May, includes theatre, music,
dance, literary debates, outdoor entertainment
and family events in more than 20 venues, plus a
cutting edge fringe festival.
l Glyndebourne ( www.glyndebourne.com ):
Unique and quintessentially English, the opera
house nestling in the foot of the Downs near
Lewes hosts its world famous festival from May toAugust.
l South of England Show ( www.seas.org.uk): June
7-9, 2012. This flagship event showcases the very
best of the local countryside, with prize winning
livestock, equestrian events, regional food and
drink, arena displays and much more.
l Goodwood Festival of Speed
( www.goodwood.co.uk): Dubbed the world’s
largest motoring garden party, this weekend event
at the end of June is an exhilarating celebration of
motorsport history.
l Winchester Festival
( www.winchesterfestival.co.uk ): With over 30
events in 10 days every July, the festival serves up
a feast of local, national and international talent.
l Arundel Festival ( www.arundelfestival.co.uk ):
Held in August, the 10-day long celebration of arts,
music and drama retains a community feel
alongside large scale events staged at the castle
and around the town.
l Chichester Festival Theatre ( www.cft.org.uk):
Celebrating its 50th anniversary in 2012, the
theatre has an international reputation for its
varied programme, encompassing classic drama,
musicals, comedies and innovative new
productions.
“The SouthDowns isrich in
literary and artisticculture”
nArundel Castle
n The South Downsfrom Goodwood
n Detail fromAmberley Castle
B r i t a i n o n v i e w / D a v i d S e l l m a n
B r i t a i n o n v i e w
Amberley Castle
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Moving west, seaside towns such as cosmopolitan
Brighton, Littlehampton, nestling in the mouth of the
River Arun, and family-friendly Bognor Regis, home to
one of Billy Butlin’s first holiday camps which opened in
the 1960s and is now one of the remodelled resorts
(www.butlins.com), make good bases to explore the
South Downs.Another gateway town I’d recommend is the elegant
cathedral city of Chichester in West Sussex, situated at
the halfway point on the national park’s southern side.
Take a leisurely one-hour stroll around the Roman walls
before visiting the cathedral, with its 15th-century belfry,
England’s only remaining detached bell tower.
cultureThe South Downs is rich in literary and artistic culture;
for instance Charles Kingsley was a regular visitor to
Hampshire’s Itchen Abbas, the village and river inspir-
ing the setting of his novel, The Water Babies.
Energetic types can head for the hills along sections
of, or indeed the whole of, the South Downs Way, the
only National Trail lying wholly within a national park.
The 100-mile trail, a haven for walkers, cyclists and horse
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 55
artistic and literary linksl This year marks the 200th anniversary of the publication of Sense and Sensibility
and Jane Austen’s House Museum
( www.jane-austens-house-museum.org.uk) in Chawton, Hampshire, is the
17th century home where she wrote the majority of her books.
l Writers, painters and intellectuals known as the Bloomsbury Group flocked to
Charleston ( www.charleston.org.uk ), the farmhouse at Firle, East Sussex,
with interiors painted by Duncan Grant and Vanessa Bell.
l Bateman’s ( www.nationaltrust.org.uk ) is the beautiful 17th century Jacobean
House at Burwash, East Sussex, where Rudyard Kipling wrote children’s classics
such as Puck of Pook’s Hill and Rewards and Fairies.
l Monk’s House ( www.nationaltrust.org.uk) in the village of Rodmell, near
Lewes, was the countryside retreat where Virginia Woolf completed works
including To the Lighthouse, The Waves and Mrs Dalloway .
l Artists have been attracted to Ditchling for over a century and the East Sussex
village is credited with the revival of calligraphy and hand weaving at the
beginning of the 20th century.
l Petworth House ( www.nationaltrust.org.uk ) and Goodwood House
( www.goodwood.co.uk), both in West Sussex, contain exceptional collections
of paintings and sculpture, including works by JMW Turner.
on your doorstep nsouth downs
n Glyndebourne
B r i t a i n o n v i e w
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riders alike, runs through and around villages and towns,
so food and a bed for the night are never too far away.
I particularly like the ancient Hampshire market town
of Petersfield, where the tradition continues with weekly
markets every Wednesday and Saturday and an excellent
farmers’ market on the first Sunday of each month.
From Petersfield, discover a unique feature of the
local landscape – the steep-sided hanging woods, also
called hangers. The town is part of Hangers Way, a 21-
mile countryside path from Alton to Queen ElizabethCountry Park. The latter is home to Butser Hill, 890ft
above sea level and the South Downs’ highest point.
Walkers can continue 22 miles along the South Downs
Way to Winchester, ancient capital of England, while
transport users take the low road along the A3 and A272.
Each part of the South Downs has its own beauty.
I know the places that I love; take time out to find
your personal high spot.
56 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
on your doorstep nsouth downs
Born and bred in Eastbourne, Jeannine Williamson cut
her journalistic teeth on regional newspapers beforespreading her wings and going freelance 12 years ago. Shecontributes to a range of national newspapers, magazines
and websites.
south down facts
getting there
Services by Southern Railway
( www.southernrailway.com) go from
London to East and West Sussex and
Hampshire. By car, the M25 leads to the
main eastern access roads, the A27 andA22, and the M3 for Winchester.
getting around
From £10 a day, the Downlander Ticket
( www.southernrailway.com), is valid for Southern trains and some
bus services. The Breeze up the Downs ( www.brighton-hove.gov.uk)
bus network links Brighton with popular places in the park.
accommodationThe National Trails website ( www.nationaltrail.co.uk ) lists a wide
range of accommodation such as camp sites, self-catering, pubs, hotels,
dog-friendly accommodation and lodging with bike storage.
The Angel Hotel, Midhurst: www.theangelmidhurst.co.uk
Findon Manor Hotel, Findon: www.findonmanor.com
Russell Hotel, Bognor Regis: www.visionhotels.co.uk
The Star, Alfriston: www.thestaralfriston.co.uk
Deans Place Country Hotel, Alfriston:
www.deansplacehotel.co.uk
George Bell House Hotel, Chichester:
www.chichestercathedral.org.uk
Hotel du Vin, Winchester:
www.hotelduvin.com
Amberley Castle, Arundel:
www.amberleycastle.co.uk
more informationSouth Downs National Park Authority: www.southdowns.gov.uk
Tourism South East: www.visitsoutheastengland.com
n Winchester, ancientcapital of England
n Bloomsbury Group artistsDuncan Grant, Vanessa Bell and
Quentin Bell, lived at Charleston.
n Bateman’s
n
Amberley Castle
B r i t a i n o n v i e
w
B r i t a i n o n v i e w
B r i t a i n o n v i e w
B r i t a i n o n v i e w
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Autumn 2011 tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 57
George Bell House is a beautifully restored eight bedroom house
situated in the historic precincts of Chichester Cathedral.George Bell House has 4 large double / twin rooms, 3 standarddouble rooms and a single room (adapted for disabled access).
All bedrooms are en-suite.
Breakfast is available in the dining room of the house which looksout over the private, walled garden.
A stay at George Bell House offers the convenience of a city
centre location within the tranquil setting of the Cathedral Close.An ideal location from which to explore the historic city of Chichester with its beautiful Cathedral, galleries and shops.
www.chichestercathedral.org.uk Email: [email protected]
Telephone: 01243 813586
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tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 201158
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C
apital of Lower Silesia in south-western
Poland, Wroclaw is one of the country’s old-
est and most beautiful cities. It will be in the
spotlight next June as one of the host cities of
the Euro 2012 football championships, with
three group stage matches there.Founded over 1,000 years ago, Wroclaw has under-
gone many name changes in a chequered
history which included large-scale
destruction in World War II and subse-
quent reconstruction and preservation.
Its Old Market Square and Town Hall
are among many historic gems in the
heart of a city which also
encompasses 12 islands, 112 bridges
and a wealth of glorious architecture.
Wroclaw is Poland’s greenest city,
with many parks, gardens and even forests. It
is also a vibrant metropolis with a multitude of culturalattractions from theatres, concert halls, museums and
galleries to international festivals – recognised by it
being named European City of Culture in 2016.
Now, thanks to the Polish National Tourist Office and
the city-centre Tumski Hotel, you can win a three-night
weekend break for two to Wroclaw. The winner and part-
ner will fly direct to Wroclaw with transfers to and from
the hotel, situated on the bank of the Odra River close to
a watermill on Slodowa Island. The prize includes two
dinners in the hotel’s Karczma Mlynska (Mill Inn)
restaurant and one dinner in the Blue Marine restaurant
on floating, three-level restaurant Barka Tumska.
Also included is a half-day sightseeing trip and tick-
ets for the Panorama Raclawicka exhibition
commemorating the Battle of Raclawice.
Opened in 2000, the 103-bed Tumski Hotel offers
guests discreet charm and elegance with a
friendly atmosphere. Crossing Art Nouveau
Bridge, guests can reach Ostrow Tumski, the
oldest and the most picturesque part of Wroclaw.
The prize is valid for stays from December 1, 2011,
to May 31, 2012.
how to enterFor a chance to WIN this fantastic three-night Wroclaw
break for two, simply answer the following question:
Question: In which region of Poland is Wroclaw?
To enter, go to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click on
Competitions. Closing date is November 20, 2011.
Terms & conditions apply; see website for details.
For more information on the Tumski Hotel, go to
www.hotel-tumski.com.pl and for Poland information,
visitwww.poland.travel or the Polish tourism Facebook
page, www.facebook.com/POLANDTRAVELengb.
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 59
WIN a long weekend breakfor two in historic Polish city Wroclaw – worth £1,000
competition nwroclaw break
P o l i s h N a t i o n a l T o u r i s t O f f i c e
P h o t o s : T u m s k i H o t e l
n The Tumski Hoteland floating restaurant
n Karczma Mlynska restaurant
n Wroclaw’smain square
n Tumski Hotelreception
n Tumski Hotel facade
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THE NEW CL COMPANION. CLOSE AT HAND
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A
fter 15 years of hacking around
fairways as an occasional week-
end golfer, I had been invited toScotland’s luxury Turnberry golf
resort as part of a hosted event
including a round on its hal-
lowed Ailsa links course – where Tom
Watson beat Jack Nicklaus in the famous
“Duel in the Sun” Open Championship in
1977 – plus a group clinic by top golf star
Colin Montgomery at his new links
golf academy.
Not only that, but I was on a
charge while playing the Ailsa’s
sibling, then called the Arran,
with a string of bogies and the
odd par. Not exactly Tigerish,
perhaps, but still good for a 23
handicapper.
I had just hit the drive of my life on the picturesque,
par-4 8th hole, leaving a short chip down onto a green
nestling in a cove and was about to take my shot when aRange Rover drove onto the fairway and pulled up
behind me. Out stepped Monty and a photographer,
ready to snap him with me and my playing partners. But
he signalled for me to carry on.
All of a sudden, my composure went and my hands
started sweating. I jabbed at the ball, knocking it into the
rough I was trying to chip over. Then fluffed the next
shot, and the next, getting ever more nervous. After five
attempts I picked the ball up, and as I trudged over to
join the others, Monty chuckled when I told him he had
just ruined my best-ever round. Indeed, over the rest of
the round the wheels well and truly came off.
Fast forward 10 or so years and I am back at Turn-
berry, once again with Monty. Only this time I am there
to take part in the annual Colin Montgomerie Summer
Golf School.
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 61
Whether you are trying to improve your game or taking golf up as
a complete beginner, there is nothing like taking a dedicated tuition
break with intensive lessons. Perennial hacker Peter Ellegard went
straight to the top in his quest
Monty’smantrasColin Montgomerie’s tips
for improving your golf:l Keep it simple
l Always think positive
thoughts
l Use the same swing
for every club
l Every club should be
your favourite
l Stay loose
l Keep your hands soft
l Putt 18 inches beyond
the cup
pack your clubs ngolf tuition breaks
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
n tlm editor Peter Ellegardunder the eye of instructor
Sven at Turnberry
The full
Monty
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controlWith just 12 of us on the weekend course, and Monty
with us for the first afternoon before handing over to his
instructors, there’s a chance to chat with him before a
fascinating 90-minute clinic, during which he explains
how he believes golf should be played. Monty’s philoso-
phy can be summed up in three words – keep it simple.
Which he then demonstrates with a range of shots, all
played with effortless power and control. If only…
Over lunch, I had told him about our previous Turn-
berry encounter and how it had left my golf in tatters. Heapologised, but added I could never be a tour pro if I
couldn’t handle pressure like that. I got my chance to
prove that when we all teed off on Turnberry’s nine-hole
course, with Monty hitting a drive on the first hole with
each group. When my turn came, I took out my trusty
hybrid and focused on the shot, determined not to let my
nerves get the better of me. It worked. The ball flew
straight down the middle, to my delight and the applause
of Monty and the others. I had exorcised one demon.
The academy’s instructors monitored us while we
played before a farewell reception with Monty back at
the clubhouse and a group dinner in the hotel that
evening.
Next morning we were split into four groups, each
with an instructor. I drew a personable South African
called Sven and we played the Kintyre course with him,
before our first instruction session.
My golf hasn’t improved in years and I have always
struggled with distance. I have had lessons at several
golf academies, but they have generally been just anhour or so with no-one watching me play. Invariably they
have given me so many things to think about it scram-
bled my brain and my golf suffered even more.
exagerrateSven had noticed I tend to hit the ball with my weight
too far back, instead of transferring weight to my front
foot. As a result, my shots lacked power, kept low and
often squirted to the right.
62 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
pack your clubs ngolf tuition breaks
golf scienceI stayed on at Turnberry after the Monty golf
school weekend to undergo a two-hour
session next morning at the resort’s
TaylorMade Performance Lab, one of only
two in the UK.
There, your swing is analysed in detail by a
battery of high-tech gizmos, with the aim of
checking whether your clubs suit your game
and, if not, to find ones that do.
First, you put on a vest, belt, overshoes and
wrist, arm and leg bands studded with
reflective markers. Six high-speed video
cameras are trained on you and as you swing,
your movements are translated into an on-
screen avatar (the technology was developed
by the same company behind the special
effects for the movie, Avatar ).
The results showed why my shots often
veer right, or go straight left. I bring my clubs
down from too vertical a plane, technically
an out-to-in swing, and hit the ball with an
open club face.
To cure it would take many months
deconstructing my swing, so the TMPL fitter,
Ian, tried me with different clubs and shafts
to try and counter my faults. He then gave
me a CD with the results and his
recommendations. He suggests I keep my
irons but try different woods with whippier
shafts and greater loft.
He also analysed my putting on the lab’s
special green, giving me a new-style putter
with a lofted face to try. It instantly
transformed my putting to 100% success. I
liked it so much I bought the club – all £120
of it!
lTwo-hour club fitting sessions at
Turnberry’s TaylorMade Performance Lab
cost £150. For details, call 01655 331235 or
visit www.luxurycollection/turnberry.
“Monty’s philosophycan besummed upin threewords – keepit simple”
n Splashing out to the 8th green onthe Kintyre course at Turnberry
nTurnberryacademy instructors
n Peter Ellegardat Turnberry’sTaylorMadePerformance Lab
P e t e r E
l l e g a r d
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He told me one thing, to exaggerate the follow
through as if I was walking after the ball – like fellow
South African Gary Player used to do. And it worked a
treat. Within minutes I was hitting drives on the range
straighter, higher and longer than I have ever done. Same
with my irons. From my favourite, the lob wedge, to the
five iron I rarely use for fear of duffing it (although
Monty says you shouldn’t favour any club).
After another group dinner, followed by the odd dram
or two in the bar, it was back to the academy next morn-
ing for more tuition, this time concentrating on the shortgame. Having satisfied chief pro Michael with my
bunker shots and chipping, Sven suggested how I could
improve my putting, by narrowing my stance and putting
the ball closer to me and nearer my front foot. Putting
has always been my strong suit but Sven reckoned the
new technique would improve it even more.
We finished the weekend school with a competition
on the Ailsa course, where Tom Watson came
heartbreakingly close to winning the Open again in
2009. Putting new golf techniques into practice takes
time, but I played much better even if the new putting
style wasn’t coming naturally.
I didn’t win, that honour deservedly going to a 14-
year-old lad in my four-ball. But I was happy with my
golf and I showed Sven I was following his advice as he
watched on.
It may have only been a weekend, but I and my new-
found friends, both fellow students and academy
instructors, had formed a common bond, and everyone
said how useful they had found it besides it being an
enjoyable experience. Spending some time with Europe’s
victorious Ryder Cup captain, Monty, was the icing on
the cake – and the reason two of the participants have
kept coming back, seven years running.
His laid-back style, echoed by his team of pros, and
his genuine approachability and friendliness helped
make the experience one I will always treasure. Doing it
in such glorious surroundings and at such an iconic and
sumptuous resort as Turnberry made it even more
special. And I even managed to exorcise another demon,
by parring the very hole I blew up on in front of Monty a
decade earlier.
As I said goodbye to Sven I asked for his honest
appraisal of what my handicap could get down to. Quick
as a flash he replied 15-18. I just need to keep practising
his advice and Monty’s tips.
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 63
pack your clubs ngolf tuition breaks
golf tuition facts
colin montgomerie links golf academy, turnberryThe world’s only links golf academy features
teaching programmes designed by eight-time European Tour Order of Merit
winner Colin Montgomerie. Facilities
include indoor and outdoor teaching
areas, simulators and swing analysers,
16 covered bays, open-air range and
short-game area. Tuition includes 60-
minute lessons for £80, one-hour
putting lessons for £50 and one-hour
family lessons for £99. The three-day Colin
Montgomerie Summer Golf School takes place
every year. This year it cost from £798, fully-inclusive.
www.luxurycollection.com/turnberry
other uk golf academies
UK resorts and hotel groups with golf academies include 2014 Ryder
Cup host Gleneagles ( www.gleneagles.com), De Vere Hotels
( www.devere.co.uk) with facilities including
the Nike Golf Academy at Oulton Hall &
Spa, and hotel chain Marriott
( www.marriottgolf.co.uk), which
has 11 UK golf hotels and offers a
Kids Golf-4-Free programme allowing
children to have a free lesson when
accompanying an adult taking a paid
lesson, with free club use. Among UK
golf schools with tuition packages arethe James Andrews School of Golf at
Sedlescombe Golf Course in East Sussex
( www.golfschool.co.uk) and the David Short Golf School
( www.shortgolfschool.co.uk), with programmes at several courses.
overseas golf academiesMost golf resorts offer tuition. Popular ones include Spain’s La Manga
Club ( www.lamangaclub.com) and La Cala ( www.lacala.com)
resort, which has Spain’s only David Leadbetter Academy, and Penina
( www.lemeridienpenina.com/en/golf ) on Portugal’s Algarve. Tuition
is also offered by all-inclusive resort companies Club Med
( www.clubmed.co.uk) and Sandals ( www.sandals.com/golf ) among
others.
packages
Tour operators with golf tuition packages include Golfbreaks.com
( www.golfbreaks.com), Solo’s ( www.solosholidays.co.uk/golf ),
Premier Iberian ( www.premieriberian.com ), GolfPlanet Holidays
( www.golfplanetholidays.com ) and Your Golf Travel
( www.yourgolftravel.com).
M a r r i o t t
n Turnberry’sdriving range
n Kids Golf-4-Free
P e t e r E
l l e g a r d
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tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 201164
U5 4 4 4
Chateau des Vigiers Travel is a trading division of
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Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 65
golf nnews
GOLF CLIPS
A new range of golf
sweaters from Scottish-based
clothing company Glenmuiruses scientific water-repellent
technology to allow golfers
to wear them in light rain or
short showers without having
to resort to waterproofs. The
lambswool men’s and ladies’
sweaters in the
Autumn/Winter 2011
collection feature special
Bionic-Finish nanotechnology
and cost from £70-£80.
www.glenmuir.com
The second course at
upmarket Greek golf resort
Costa Navarino is now open
for play. The Bay Course,
designed by Robert Trent
Jones Jr, overlooks the
historic bay of Navarino in
the south-west Peloponnese
and augments the resort’s
Bernard Langer-designed
Dunes Course and two five-
star, Starwood-managed
hotels.
www.costanavarino.com
Golfers can book tee times
at discounted rates 24 hours
a day at 49 courses in
Portugal’s Algarve and Lisbon
areas and 44 Spanish courses
including the Costa del Sol,
Costa Blanca and Canary
Islands via a new app from
Algarve-based Just Tee Times.
A free iPhone or Android
download, it includes course
reviews, videos and maps.
www.justteetimes.com/mobile
With the cost of taking
your clubs on a golf-ing holiday becoming
ever more daunting thanks to air-
line excess baggage charges, a
solution which makes it easier on
your wallet as well as your back
is fast gaining favour.
ClubstoHire.com was launched
a year ago by Paul McGinley,
Ryder Cup star and victorious GB
& Ireland team captain in the
recent Vivendi Seve Trophy, to
allow golfers to rent clubs in their
holiday destination and avoid paying the airline fees, which can
amount to £80 return for clubs.
Golf club rental is currently
available at seven airports – Faro,
Malaga, Dublin, Edinburgh, Gran
Canaria and newly-added Murcia
and Alicante – and since its incep-
tion the company claims to have
saved golfers over £500,000 in
airline charges.
A wide range of equipment is
offered from top brands Wilson,
TaylorMade, Callaway and MDGolf, with left and right-handed
sets for both ladies and men.
Rental periods can be from just
one day to four weeks, and golfers
who really want to cut down on
their luggage can rent golf shoes.
The service is easy to use;
golfers simply order online ahead
of travel and pick up the hire set at
the destination airport.
The clubs, which cost the same
at each location, range from 35
euros per week for a rental set of
MD Golf Seve clubs up to 55
euros for TaylorMade R11s.
Go to www.clubstohire.com
for more information.
Follow in the spike marks of Northern Ireland’s
Graeme McDowell and splash out on a new
golf getaway to California’s iconic Pebble
Beach resort from sports tour operator ITC Sports.
The four-night package includes return British
Airways flights to San Francisco, accommodation at
The Lodge at Pebble Beach and three rounds of golf
on The Links at Spanish Bay, Spyglass Hill and the
legendary Pebble Beach Golf Links – where GMac
won the US Open in 2010.
Prices start from £2,995 per person and include a
golf buggy and unlimited range balls for the three
rounds, and membership of the Spanish Bay Club and
the Beach & Tennis Club with use of their facilities.
Visit www.itcsports.co.uk for more informa-
tion.
WIN a week’sclub rental for four worth £200
You can WIN a week’s rental of
golf clubs including TaylorMade
R11s for you and three golfing
buddies, worth 220 euros
(around £200), from any of ClubstoHire.com’s locations. The
prize is valid for 12 months,
excluding September and
October, 2012, and three weeks’
notice is required. For details, go
to www.tlm-magazine.co.uk
and click on Competitions. Terms
and conditions apply. Closing
date November 18, 2011.
Don’t pack your clubs
Pebble splash
P e t e r E l l e g a r d
n Pebble Beach Links
n ClubtoHire.com’s Faro shop
nPaul McGinley
n Derwent sweater
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tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 201166
WWW.A1SAILING.LTD.UK
Tel: +34 971 547 986
Warm breezes, crystal sea & sunshineModern high specification yachts from
32 to 72ft available for charter
• RYA practical & theory courses
• Beginner to Yachtmaster• Flotilla and bareboat holidays• Dedicated RYA school boats
Get more enjoyment from sailing
Sailing
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Email:[email protected]
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Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 67
Ever wondered what
would happen if you
or a loved one need-
ed emergency help while
travelling overseas?
According to the
Foreign and Common-
wealth Office’s British
Behaviour Abroad report,
almost 20,000 Britsneeded consular assistance
last year, with Spain
producing the most inci-
dents – but travellers most
likely to need assistance in
the Philippines, Thailand
and Pakistan.
Now emergency
response specialist
Skyguard has launched
the first personal emer-
gency service for British
travellers. The subscrip-tion Skyguard
International service
allows travellers to
summon help at the press
of a button if they find
themselves in trouble
overseas. Initially, the new
service is live across 34
European countries, the
Russian Federation and
South Africa.
The service can be
activated using a small
GPS alarm device which
can be attached to keys or
a belt or worn on a
lanyard. It also runs as anapp on Blackberry
phones, with the side key
acting as the alarm button.
Alarms containing the
user’s location and identity
go directly to Skyguard’s
Incident Management
Centre in the UK, where
trained controllers can talk
to them and co-ordinate a
response by summoning
the national emergency
services of the country in
question as well as contact-
ing relatives or employers.
Skyguard International
costs from £29.95 amonth. It is available as an
£18 per month add-on to
Skyguard's standard UK
service, which starts at
£11.95 a month based on
a three-year contract.
www.skyguardgroup.com
travel update nnews
On the prowlTracking rare snow leopards is among two new
wildlife expeditions in India by PlanetWildlife.com.
The 13-day Snow Leopard Explorer itinerary,departing on November 3, starts in Leh, the former
mountain capital of the ancient Himalayan kingdom of
Ladakh, near Tibet, continuing on to track the elusive
snow leopard in the Himalayas, as well as the great
Tibetan sheep, Tibetan wolf and Eurasian brown bear.
Departing on December 8, the 15-day Meghalaya
Caving Adventure has a few days observing the rare
birdlife, flora and fauna in Meghalaya, before exploring
the limestone cave system in the Shnong Rim of the
Jaintia Hills district.
The tours are priced at £1,325 and £1,369
respectively, excluding international flights. Details at
www.planetwildlife.com.
One to one with Santa
Single-parent families can now take advantage of
special packages for one adult and one child under 12
to travel to Lapland with Santa holiday specialist
Santa’s Lapland.
The two and three-night holidays start at £1,499,
including return flights from Gatwick or Stansted,
half-board accommodation, use of thermal outer
clothing and a full day’s activities, as well as a private
meeting with Santa Claus in his log cabin home.
For more information and December departure
dates, call 01252 618345 or go to
www.santaslapland.com.
Help, if you
need somebody
Fifty million LEGO
bricks f ill Florida’s
latest attraction,
LEGOLAND Florida.
Open from October
15 and aimed at chil-
dren aged two to 12,
the 150-acre theme
park, located midway between Orlando
and Tampa, has 10 themed zones, includ-
ing a Miniland USA and LEGO City with
its own driving school, with more than 50
rides, as well as shows, interactive attrac-
tions and botanical gardens.
For information on the new park and
tickets, go to
www.legolandfloridaresort.com
Brick by brick
n Skyguard’s GPSalarm device
n Brick funin Florida
n Meeting Santa
n Snow leopard
S k y g u a r d
L E G O L A N D F l o r i d a
S a n t a ’ s L a p l a n d
P l a n e t W i l d l i f e . c o m
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Pressure is growing on theGovernment to slash air
passenger duty and revamp
what many claim is an unfair
tax.
Under current plans, APD –
originally a green tax but now
regarded as a revenue raiser – will
see a double-inflation rise next
spring, having soared by 140%
since 2007.
Calls to repeal APD have
intensified following Chancellor
George Osborne’s decision to cutthe tax on long-haul flights from
Northern Ireland, from November
1, from £60 to £12 per passenger
in economy and from £120 to £24
for business and first class
passengers, to match the short-
haul rate.
The move followed a threat by
Continental Airlines to axe
transatlantic flights from Belfast
because of the tax. British
Airways has already said it is
cutting capacity on UK flights tothe Caribbean next summer,
blaming APD.
Travel industry bodies want
the Government to cut the tax for
the whole of the UK and abandon
the planned 2012 increase.
UK passengers already face
some of the highest air taxes in
the world. A typical family travel-
ling from the UK in economy
class pays £240 more than from
most European countries to travel
to the USA and £50 more to fly
within Europe, according toANTOR, an association compris-
ing overseas national tourist
boards with UK offices.
Part of ABTA’s Fair Tax on
Flying lobby, ANTOR has
prepared a petition calling on the
Chancellor to make the tax fairer.
Chairman Tracey Poggio said:
“We believe Air Passenger Duty
in its current form is unfair to
individuals and to business. We
believe it is already impeding
travel to destinations of choice.
“We are concerned that higher APD rates combined with the
global economic downturn will
create serious consequences not
only for the UK economy but also
for those economies heavily
dependent on UK tourism.”
68 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
travel update nnews
Smart travel
One-third of frequent flyers
now use their smartphones to
book and manage their
holidays.
Using research from travel
technology partner Amadeus,
Airport Parking and Hotels has
put together a comparison
table of airlines and the
services they offer through
smartphones.Most airlines, including
British Airways, allow checking-
in and downloading of boarding
passes to their mobile phones
and several have apps with
more information available to
passengers.
The table is available in the
Know Before You Go section
of the APH website:
www.aph.com/news.
Rising stars
In the latest Rising Stars report
from Cheapflights.co.uk, listing
the most requested
destinations for the first half of
2011, Bodrum in Turkey came
top with a 971% year-on-year
increase while Erbil in Iraq was
a surprising second,
experiencing 504% growth.
Kona in Hawaii, Hangzhou in
China and Sapporo, Japan,
completed the top five slots.
www.cheapflights.co.uk
Next spring will see the launch of flightsfrom easyJet’s newest base, London
Southend Airport, as part of a summer
2012 schedule serving more than 300 destinations.
Eight destinations are being served by the airline
from the Stobart Group-owned airport, which is
gaining a new terminal and an extended runway
following the recent opening of a dedicated railway
station connecting it to Stratford and London’s Liver-
pool Street.
Flights will start in April to Amsterdam, Alicante,
Barcelona, Belfast, Faro, Ibiza, Malaga and Majorca,
and easyJet aims to fly 800,000 passengers from
Southend – where low-cost pioneer Freddie Laker
began his airline empire – in its first year.
More details from www.southendairport.com
and www.easyjet.com .
Hey, Mr Taxman
Ready for take-off
n British Airways may cut Jamaicaflights because of air taxes
n Easyjet will base threeAirbus A319s at Southendn Bodrum – tops for searches
J a m a i c a T o u r i s t B o a r d
C r e d i t t / c
T u r k i s h T o u r i s t O f f i c e
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1. Face to face with polar bearsThe encounter: Experience the thrill of seeing the
Arctic’s most powerful predators on a polar bear
safari in Churchill, Manitoba, Canada, or on a cruiseoff Norway’s Spitsbergen.
What’s involved: View polar bears from the safety of
tundra buggies as they migrate along the Hudson Bay
coastline during October and November ahead of the
winter freeze. Cruise ship company Hurtigruten’s
expedition-style Spitsbergen field landings take
passengers close to polar bears and other Arctic
wildlife.
Do it: Tailor Made Travel’s five-night Polar Bears of
Churchill tour costs from £2,437* including three
nights in Churchill and two days’ tundra buggy polar
bear viewing. Windows on the Wild’s six-night polar
bear tours, from £3,275, include four nights inChurchill. Hurtigruten’s eight-day Explorer Voyage
costs from £2,488.
www.tailor-made.co.uk,
www.windowsonthewild.com, www.hurtigruten.co.uk
2. Tiger, tiger burning brightThe encounter: The chance to view majestic and endan-
gered Bengal tigers on safari in central India’s national parks.
What’s involved: India’s tigers are under threat from
poaching and loss of habitat. Exodus offers a Land of
the Tigers safari holiday that takes in three national
parks where tigers still roam – Pench, the inspiration
for Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book , Kanha and
Bandhavgarth, where an Exodus project involves
rebuilding a school bordering the national park. Jeep
and optional elephant game drives give a great chance
70 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
10 of the best nwildlife encounters
of the furred kind We love watching them in zoos and on TV wildlife programmes, but there is nothing quite like
confronting some of nature’s most feared or enchanting creatures in the wild. Here’s our pick of
encounters to set the heart racing
T a i l o r M a d e T r a v
e l
W i n d o w s o n t h e W i l d / R o b e r t R T a y l o r
n Meeting a polar bear in Canada
n Polar bear family
o f t h e b e s t : w i l d l i f e
e n c o u n t e r s
10
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to see tigers and other wildlife, with multiple tiger
sightings possible.
Do it: The Exodus Land of the Tigers trip costs from
£1,899 for 16 days, with departures from autumn to
spring. The itinerary includes a sleeper train and stays
in Agra, for the Taj Mahal, and Delhi.
www.exodus.co.uk
3. Gorillas in your midstThe encounter: Witness the magnificent, gentle giantsof Uganda and Rwanda’s mountain rainforests.
What’s involved: Trek to view mountain gorilla fami-
lies in their natural habitat in Rwanda’s Parc National
des Volcans or Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable National
Park, home to over 300 gorillas. Trips often visit the
grave of murdered conservationist Dian Fossey, author
of Gorillas in the Mist .
Do it: Wildlife Worldwide’s 10-day Gorillas, Wildlife
and Chimps trip includes two nights in a lodge in the
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, from £3,195 including
flights. Aardvark Safaris offers gorilla tracking in
Rwanda, including three nights at Virunga Lodge, from
£2,343, and G Adventures’ five-day Uganda Gorillas
and Game trip costs from £1,579, both ex-flights.
Brown + Hudson’s luxury, 13-day East African Extrava-
ganza, from £225,000 for two, includes helicopter
flights to Bwindi, for a gorilla trek and overnight stay,
and to other African safari destinations plus a bespoke
documentary film of the trip.www.wildlifeworldwide.com,
www.aardvarksafaris.co.uk,
www.gadventures.com,
www.brownandhudson.com
4. Cage diving with great whitesharksThe encounter: Experience a breathtaking underwa-
ter brush with the fearsome stars of Jaws diving in a
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 71
W i l d l i f e W o r l d w i d e
S o u t h A f r i c a n T o u r i s m
Exodus/Paul Goldstein
10 of the best nwildlife encounters
R e g a l d i v e
n Tiger safari
n Great white shark
n Close encounter of the feared kindn Magnificent: mountain gorilla
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steel cage in Shark Alley, off South Africa’s Dyer
Island, near Cape Town.
What’s involved: Dyer Island is one of the world’s
best locations to encounter great whites as it is home to
50,000 seals, their main food. Trips to Shark Alley
include viewing the sharks from onboard the boat and diving in the cage. Divers should hold a minimum of
PADI Advanced Open Water or equivalent qualif ication
and have logged 40 dives.
Do it: Regaldive offers a great white shark diving exten-
sion with its six-night East Coast Shark Diving holiday
from £2,144 for both. The four-day Gaansbaai extension
includes an extra three nights’ accommodation, two
days’ great white cage diving, a guide and transfers.
www.regaldive.co.uk
5. Kayaking with killer whales
The encounter: Paddling a kayak alongside killer
whales, or orcas, is a never-to-be-forgotten experience.
Johnstone Strait, off mainland British Columbia,
Canada, is the best place on earth to sea kayak with
killer whales in the wild. Most of BC’s 220 resident
orcas return there between July and October each year.
What’s involved: Stay in a permanent tented wilder-
ness camp with an experienced paddler guide and encounter pods of the friendly orcas close up from your
sea kayak. Among other wildlife you may see are
dolphins, sea lions, harbour seals, minke whales, otters,
eagles and black bears.
Do it: Frontier Canada offers five-day Orcas & Wilderness
Camping kayaking trips from Campbell River, Quadra
Island or Port McNeill, costing around £800. They include
paddling on three days in search of the killer whales.
www.frontier-canada.co.uk
6. Walking with lionsThe encounter: For sheer adrenalin, track lions on
walking safaris or walk and work alongside them on
volunteering projects.
What’s involved: Walk with lions at Zimbabwe’s Ante-
lope Park Private Game Reserve, where a lion
72 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
rehabilitation project aims to return them to the wild.
Several projects let you help look after lions. Walk-
ing safaris with armed guides, possible in some
countries, give close-up views on foot.
Do it: Acacia Africa’s seven-day Rediscover
Zimbabwe trip, from £641, incorporates a stay at
Antelope Park. Classic Retreats offers walking safaris
on Remote Africa Safaris’s Chikoko Walking Trails as
part of a seven-day trip, from $3,655. Norman Carr
Safaris has walking safaris on its eight-night Luwi River
Trail, privately-guided trip to Zambia’s South Luangwa,
from $3,960. Under BUNAC’s Wildlife ConservationSouth Africa programme, volunteers can look after lions
and cubs at a South African wildlife reserve for 18 or 32
days, from £1,099, while i-to-i offers volunteering with
lion research work in South Africa’s Limpopo Province,
from £1,199 for two to six weeks.
www.acacia-africa.com, www.classicretreats.com,
www.normancarrsafaris.com, www.i-to-i.com,
www.bunac.org.uk
7. Whale meet againThe encounter: Marvel at the oceans’ leviathans on
whale-watching trips from the Azores to South Africa,
10 of the best nwildlife encounters
A c a c i a A f r i c a
F r o n t i e r C a n a d a
S t a r w o o d H o t e l s
a n d R e s o r t s
BUNAC
Peter Ellegard
n Walking with lions inAntelope Park, Zimbabwe
n Cubfeedingtime
n Close up with killer whales
n Whale hello there
n A sperm whale off Kaikoura, New Zealand
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tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 201174
Wildlife
CampSouth Luangwa, Zambia
An affordablefront-row seat to
the greatest animalencounters in
Africa
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Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 75
Mozambique, California, Hawaii, Newfoundland,
Quebec, Cape Cod, Dominica and New Zealand.What’s involved: Boat trips take visitors out to where
whales congregate or pass on migration. Some can be
viewed from the shore, such as off Mozambique
(humpbacks) and along South Africa’s Cape Whale
Coast, where common species are Southern right
(pictured, previous page) and humpback whales.
Hermanus even has its own whale crier. Sperm whales
are a big draw off Dominica, the Azores and New
Zealand’s Kaikoura, with grey, blue and humpback
whales off US and Canadian coasts.
Do it: Five nights in Monterey, California, with Bon
Voyage costs from £1,095 and includes two half-day
whale-watching trips. To Escape To has seven nights atMozambique’s Nuarro Lodge from £1,819. Local oper-
ators’ whale-watching trips include Dive Dominica,
costing about £30 (children £16), and Whale Watch
Kaikoura, at about £75 (£30).
www.bon-voyage.co.uk, www.toescapeto.com,
www.whalewatch.co.nz, www.cape-whaleroute.co.za,
www.whalewatchazores.com,
www.divedominica.com
8. Horse-riding with the Big FiveThe encounter: Ride tall in the saddle on horse-back
safaris through Kenya’s Masai Mara or Amboseli
National Park, galloping alongside zebra, giraffe and wildebeest herds and viewing elephants, buffalo and
wallowing hippos close up.
What’s involved: Seven or eight-night horse-riding
safaris take in rides of up to 50km per day between
camps through mostly open plains where big game is
abundant. Riders must have good riding ability and be
fit enough to ride up to six hours a day.
Do it: Offbeat Safaris offers 10-night safaris, including
eight nights riding in the Masai Mara staying in four
different camps, from £4,600. Alternatively, biking
safaris are offered by operators including Classic
Retreats and Adventure International.
www.offbeatsafaris.com
9. Compare the meerkatsThe encounter: Get up close and personal with
meerkats on safari in the Kalahari Desert, Botswana.
The inquisitive creatures may even clamber onto your head to watch out for predators.
What’s involved: The meerkat experience forms part
of a stay at Jack’s Camp, a palatial tented camp in
Makgadikgadi Pans in the heart of the Kalahari. An
ongoing habituation programme means the fascinating
creatures have lost their fear of people, happily using
them as lookout posts. Other activities at Jack’s include
game walks with a bushman guide, quad bikes and
tracking elusive brown hyena.
Do it: Owned and run by Botswana-based Uncharted
Africa Safari Co, Jack’s Camp is featured by Aardvark
Safaris, with three nights there costing from £2,920.
www.aardvarksafaris.co.uk
10. Jumbo encountersThe encounter: Get close to working elephants and see
wild ones in India, Sri Lanka and Thailand, or do volun-
teer work in South Africa.
What’s involved: Family holidays take in a training
camp in India and riding them and visiting an orphanage
U n c h a r t e d A f r i c a S a f a r i C o
O f f b e a t S a f a r i s
Uncharted Africa Safari Co
n Comparing themeerkats in Botswana
n Meerkat lookout
10 of the best nwildlife encounters
n On horse-back with a tusker
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Autumn 2011 tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 77
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checking out naccommodation
78 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
They are the silent stars of the silver screen –
hotels that form the setting for movies or
have starring roles in them.
From rural England to glamorous Beverly Hills,
you can emulate Hollywood’s finest and stay in thesame hotels – often in the very rooms where the
action took place.
Several UK hotels have strong film links. Hugh
Grant and Andie MacDowell got it on in Four
Weddings and a Funeral in the historic coaching inn
The Crown, Amersham, Buckinghamshire
(www.thecrownamersham.com), where you can
stay in the same four-poster-bed suite.
Luxury Buckinghamshire resort Stoke Park
(www.stokepark.com) starred in Layer Cake
(Daniel Craig and Sienna Miller) and Goldfinger,
where James Bond (Sean Connery) defeats his
nemesis on the golf course after Oddjob decapitatesa statue with his bowler hat.
In 2001 movie Bridget Jones’s Diary, Hugh
Grant’s character takes Bridget
(Renee Zellweger) there for a
romantic weekend, rowing on the
lake followed by a night in its Penn-
sylvania Suite. A one-night Bridget
Jones Mini Break, including a bottle
of chilled Chardonnay, breakfast and
dinner, massage and manicure/pedi-
cure, use of the health and leisure
facilities and a copy of the Bridget
Jones’s Diary DVD, costs £245 per
person, or £375 in the Pennsylvania
Suite.
London landmark hotel The Ritz
(www.theritzlondon.com) was where Julia
Roberts stays in 1999 hit Notting Hill as a famous
actress visiting London, and where Hugh Grant’s
travel bookstore owner character goes to meet her
after bumping into her in Notting Hill.
The Ritz Paris (www.ritzparis.com) featured in
the opening sequence of 2006 blockbuster The DaVinci Code. Many people still request room 512,
where it was set.
In 007 movie remake Casino Royale, Daniel
Craig’s James Bond stays in a beachside villa at the
luxury One&Only Ocean Club, in the Bahamas
(www.oneandonlyresorts.com). He also wins his
iconic Aston Martin in a game of poker there.
The Beverly Wilshire, in California’s Beverly
Hills (www.fourseasons.com/beverlywilshire ),
takes centre stage in Pretty Woman, when Richard
Gere’s businessman character picks up a prostitute
(Julia Roberts), takes her back to his penthouse suite
and hires her as a date to help clinch a business deal.Other movie hotels include: Bellagio, Las Vegas
(www.bellagio.com), the setting for movies Oceans
11 and 13; Park Hyatt, Tokyo
(www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com ), in
Lost in Translation; New York’s now-
renovated Plaza Hotel
(www.fairmont.com/thePlaza), in
Home Alone 2, Crocodile Dundee,
and Arthur; the iconic, luxury
Waldorf Astoria, New York
(www.waldorfnewyork.com), in
Serendipity, Scent of a Woman and
Coming to America; and San Diego’s
120-year-old Hotel Del Coronado
(www.hoteldel.com), in the Mari-
lyn Monroe classic Some Like it Hot .
Movie starsfocus: film star hotels
hotel news
Lavenham’s historic, 15th
century Swan Hotel has
completed a two-year
renovation programme of its
public areas and 45 bedrooms
and suites which has also seen
the opening of the new,informal Brasserie, overlooking
the courtyard garden, and a
new reception area. Rates start
at £200 per room B&B.
www.theswanatlavenham.co.uk
The October opening of the
85-room Z Hotels Soho, off
London’s Cambridge Circus,
marks the launch of a new
hotel group in London offering
high-quality, affordable
accommodation in primelocations. All rooms feature 40-
inch HD LED TVs with free Sky
Sports and Sky Movies, iPod
docking stations and free Wi-Fi.
Room rates start from £85.
www.thezhotels.com
The new
Radisson
Edwardian
Guildford
hotel fuses
an old
coaching inn
façade with
an ultra-
modern
glass atrium
and interior
designs part-inspired by
Guildford’s famous son, Lewis
Carroll. The 183-room hotel’s
atrium features a seven-metre
bookcase and three-metre
chandelier. It also has a spa,
two restaurants and a bar.
www.radissonedwardian.com
/guildford
O n e & O n l y R e s o r t s
S t o k e P a r k
The Ritz, London
M G M R e s o r t s
H y
a t t C o r p o r a t i o n
F o u r S e a s o n s H
o t e l s a n d R e s o r t s
D h
i l l o n G r o u p
S w a n H o t e l , L a v e n h a m
R a d i s s o n E d w a r d i a n
n The
Swan Hotel,Lavenham
n Atrium of theRadisson EdwardianGuildford
n The Ritz, London
n The Crown, Amersham
n Beverly Wilshire
n Park Hyatt, Tokyo
n Bellagio, Las Vegas
n Stoke Park
n One&Only Ocean Club
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tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 201180
www.rivierabournemouth.co.uk
Autumn breaks inBournemouth!
Located in the exclusive area of Alum Chine – minutes walk to Blue Flag beaches.
We offer stylish modern accommodation with superb foodfrom local produce, service and views over Poole Bay.
It’s the perfect base to relax and sunbathe or explore anddiscover Dorset and the surrounding areas.
75 bedrooms and 10 holidays apartmentsIndoor & Outdoor leisure club
Games room & pool table
Live entertainmentAlum Chine, Bournemouth BH4 8JF
T: 01202 763653E: [email protected]
I SEASONAL BREAKS
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Autumn 2011 tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 81
SEASONAL BREAKS I
Overlooking Porth beach and the stunning North Cornish coastline, Glendorgal
Hotel and Self Catering is set in a secluded coastal position within 17 acres of private headland, yet only a short stroll from Newquay town centre.
♦ Choice of hotel rooms or 2 & 3 bedroom self catering houses ♦ 2 night stays
available in self catering ♦ Watermark Brasserie and Bar ♦ Health Club with fitnessarena ♦ Swimming Pool ♦ Hot tub ♦ Sauna ♦ Steam Room ♦ Free Parking
Lusty Glaze Road, Porth, Newquay, Cornwall, TR7 3ADCall now on 01637 874937E-mail: info@glendorgal.co.ukwww.glendorgalhotel.co.ukwww.glendorgalselfcatering.co.uk
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Contact us for special prices for Xmas, twixmas and New Year TheHotelCollingwood is oneof Bournemouth's finest hotels, ideally situated we areonly
a short walk to the beach, Bournemouth International Centre and cosmopolitan town
centre. A family run establish-
ment ensures you of an
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service at all times. The hotel
has 53 modern en suite
bedrooms, which have their
owndistinctive style and are all
furnished and equipped with
individual heating controls,
direct dial telephone, digital
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facilities. Lift access to all
floors, as well as ample free
parking for 70 cars.
We provide an exceptional and exciting arrayof entertainment most evenings throughoutthe year, Each live cabaret is unique, whether you want to dance the night away or just
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Hotel Collingwood11 Priory Road, Bournemouth BH2 5DF
Tel: 01202 557575 Email: [email protected]
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London’s stretch of the Thames, which
forms part of the longest river entirely in
England, is a tidal river, rising and falling
as much as 26 feet between high and low
tides. Although once the source of the“Great Stink” when it was an open
sewer, it is now one of the cleanest rivers
in Europe.
The Roman city, Londinium, grew up
around the point of the river that was
easiest to cross and where the Romans
erected the first London Bridge.
Nowadays, the Thames is the focal
point of the heart of London used by
commuters to get from one part of the
city to another and offering everything
from sightseeing trips to water sports, not
to mention the opportunity to take advan-
tage of waterside restaurants and bars
year round.
The Thames has 45 locks, is home to
over 25 species of fish and is the only
river in Europe to have a national trail
which follows its entire length.
For more information, go to:www.riverthames.co.uk
the river lee
The 28-mile-long River Lee runs through
London from its source near Luton all the
way to the Thames at Stratford and its
backwaters, the Bow Backs, are London’s
least-known waterways.
That is set to change, as they form the
heart of London’s Olympic area, with
major development in the coming months
for the London 2012 Olympic and Para-lympic Games. This will place an
emphasis on sustainability, leaving a
legacy of facilities and good transport
links for the waterways that flow through
the Lower Lee Valley.
The Lee Valley area is vast and
includes a number of country parks,
nature reserves and heritage sites. The
local council is even planning an entirely
new 1.5-mile-long canal.
london’s canals
As the Thames meanders through
London to the sea, it is joined by several
man-made canals which are used by
82 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
Waterways onlineThe following websites have a wealth of information
on London’s waterways, with everything from boat
hire to finding a riverside restaurant:
www.waterscape.com
www.britishwaterways.co.uk/olympics
www.london.gov.uk/waterways
www.thames21.org.uk
www.visitthames.co.uk
www.riverthames.co.uk
Messing about on
london life nlondon’s rivers and waterways
T
he River Thames is the lifeblood of our capi-
tal as it snakes and winds its way through
many of the city’s top tourist attractions. But
London has many more canals and waterwaysto explore as well. Once the backbone of the
city’s industrial activity, transporting cargoes
from the docks across the capital and beyond, London’s
waterways now provide a peaceful haven to enjoy boat
trips, wildlife and water sports. Follow our guide for
the best way to see London through watery eyes:
the river n Competing in the Great RiverRace at Richmond upon Thames
n The Thamesfrom CanaryWharf
n On the river shore
visitlondonimages/britainonview/Pawel Libera
v i s i t l o n d o n i m a g e s / b r i t a i n o n v i e w
V i s i t L o n d o n I m a g e s / P a w e l L i b e r a
the thames
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london life nlondon’s rivers and waterways
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 83
boaters, cyclists and wildlife enthusiasts.
Regent’s Canal, which starts at Little
Venice and ends at Limehouse Basin in
Docklands, is part of London’s Grand
Union Canal and is among the most well-
known canals; its route covers some of London’s most beautiful green areas, such
as Regent’s Park and London Zoo.
The Paddington Arm of the Grand
Union Canal is effectively an extension of
Regent’s Canal, running through West
London suburbs to join the main Grand
Union Canal near Slough.
The Grand Union Canal, created by
famous industrial engineer Isambard
Kingdom Brunel as the Grand Junction
Canal, winds its way along a 137-mile
course all the way to Birmingham.
For more information on London’s
canal network go to:www.waterscape.com/in-your-area/londonor
www.riverthames.co.uk/thamescanals.htm
London’s river and canals are linked by a
series of locks, many of which date back
to around 1811, when the Corporation of
the City of London realised the need to
improve navigation on the city’s water-
ways.
The new Three Mills Lock controls
the river above Three Mills, on the River
Lee, creating a green gateway for barges
entering the Olympic Park and helping to
remove thousands of lorry journeys from
local roads.Many of London’s locks are manual
and fun to try your hand at when hiring a
boat for the day.
sightseeing and more
London’s major sights take on a different
slant when seen from the water and there
are many ways to enjoy the rivers includ-
ing jet boats, paddle steamers and river
cruises. Commuter travel using riverboat
and riverbus services is also becoming
increasingly popular.The EDF Energy London Eye River
Cruise is a 40-minute circular sightseeing
cruise with live commentary, provided by
specialist guides, with regular departures
from the London Eye Millennium Pier.
Take in amazing views of Big Ben and
the Houses of Parliament, St Paul’s
Cathedral, Tower Bridge and the Tower of
London from the cruises.
did you know?l The Thames passes through nine counties from
mouth to source: Essex, Kent, Middlesex, Surrey,
Berkshire, Buckinghamshire, Oxfordshire, Wiltshire
and Gloucestershire.l During Alfred the Great’s reign, the River Lee
formed the border between Saxon England and
Viking-controlled Danelaw.
l It takes 90 seconds to raise the 1000-ton bascules
(arms) of Tower Bridge to the upright position.
l Comedian David Walliams swam 140 miles of the
Thames in just eight days in September – equal to
swimming the English Channel seven times!
suits youFor families: Take afun land and river
sightseeing tour on
London Duck
Tours’ yellow,
amphibious vehicles,
originally known as
DUKWs and used during
the D-Day landings.
For couples: Hire a boat for the day and negotiate
London’s locks, stopping off for lunch at a riverside
cafe or pub.
For value: Cycle the towpaths of the canals and
waterways, taking in the fresh air and the sights of London by the water.
For luxury: Stay in five-
star luxury at the
Plaza on the River
overlooking the
Thames, waking to
spectacular views
across to iconic
sights including Big
Ben and Parliament.
it’s a date1717: First performance of Handel’s Water Music, by
50 musicians on a barge on the Thames for
King George 1.
1814: London’s biggest frost fair ; carnivals on ice held
when the Thames froze over, with dancing,
winter games, football and drinking.
1829: The first-ever boat race at Henley-on-Thames,
moving to Westminster and eventually Putney,
becoming an annual event from 1856.
1894: Completion of Tower Bridge, needed for the
growing populous in London’s East End.
1962: London Bridge sold; transported to Lake
Havasu, Arizona, in 1967. Opened in 1971.
lYou can WIN one of five pairs of EDF
Energy London Eye River Cruise tickets,
worth £24 per pair. Just answer the
simple question below and go to
www.tlm-magazine.co.uk and click
on Competitions. Terms and conditions
apply. Closing date November 13, 2011.
Question: Where is the starting point
for the London Eye River Cruise?
n Little Venice
n Regent’s Canal
n Yellow Duck
n Tower Bridge
V i s
i t L o n d o n I m a g e s / P a w e l L i b e r a
v i s i t l o n d o n i m a g e s / b r i t a i n o n v i e w
v i s i t l o n d o n i m a g e s / b r i t a i n o n v i e w / P a w e l L i b e r a
v i s i t l o n d o n i m a g e s / b r i t a i n o n v i e w
locks
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84 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
london nnews
Jumping Jack flashStingy Jack, the evil mythical Irish
folklore character who gave his
name to the famous Jack-o-
Lantern Halloween symbol, will
be stalking the corridors of the
London Dungeon
( www.thedungeons.com) this
Halloween (October 15-31) with
his turnip lantern; watch out for
him hiding and jumping out from
dark corners!
Sounds fishy The Spooky Rainforest at the SEA
LIFE London Aquarium
( www.sealife.co.uk/london) will
be taken over by the Fish Witch
this Halloween, from October 22-
31, with a special “Hallo-marine”
ghoulish-themed trail to follow,
highlighting some aptly-named sea
creatures such as Blood Shrimps,
Bat Fish and Spider Crabs, and
scary sea stories.
Haunted housesThe Historic Royal Palaces
( www.hrp.org.uk) have some
ghoulish tours on offer; from
October 28-31, take an Eerie
Evening Tour of the Enchanted
Palace at Kensington Palace or visit a
variety of haunted sites at Hampton
Court Palace on the popular Ghost
Tours from October 31.
Winter wonderlandAs chilly days edge ever closer,
enjoy winter in the capital with a
visit to Winter Wonderland
(www.hydeparkwinterwonderland.com)
in Hyde Park from November
18 until January 2, 2012.
Attractions this year include
Zippos Christmas Circus, roller
coaster rides, the Angel’s
Christmas Market, London’s
largest open-air ice rink and a
chance to visit Father Christmas
in Santa Land.
Teatime at Tiffany’sTiffany’s fifth year of presenting
Skate at Somerset House
(www.somersethouse.org.uk/ice-rink)
features afternoon skate
sessions with a free Tiffany
teatime treat with hot chocolate
or tea, and a glass of champagne
for adults. Other events during
the season (November 22 to
January 22, 2012) include story-
telling around the Tiffany
Christmas tree and Club Nights
on Thursdays to Saturdays.
For almost 800 years, the newly-
elected Mayor of London has trav-
elled upriver from the City to
Westminster to pledge allegiance to the
Crown and over time, the procession has
become the splendid Lord Mayor’s Show.
On November 12, 2011, the day after
the Mayor officially takes office, the
show, which includes everything from
samba dancing to military marching
bands, will start at Mansion House at
11am before continuing to St Paul’s
Cathedral, where the Lord Mayor will
be blessed.
A spectacular fireworks display on the
Thames between Blackfriars Bridge and
Waterloo Bridge concludes the day’s
events. www.lordmayorsshow.org
The famous white
Lipizzaner stallions
of the SpanishRiding School of Vienna
are coming to London
this November, with three
performances at
Wembley Arena from
November 25-27.
The highly-trained
horses and riders of the
Winter Riding School will
display classical riding in
the Renaissance tradition in
a performance of The Impe-rial Dream to live orchestral
music. In addition, Team
GB Olympic dressage
competitors Lee Pearson
(Paralympics) and Carl
Hester will open the show.
Tickets are available to
order online from
www.livenation.co.uk .
Oh,Vienna...
Family festivities
V i s i t B r i t a i n
S E A L I F E L o n d o n A q u a r i u m
E m i r a t e s
Show time
n Procession at theLord Mayor’s show
n TheSpanishRiding
School atthe Hofburg
Palace inVienna
n Halloween Fish Witch
C i t y o f L o n d o n C o r p o r a t i o n
From Halloween into winter, we have highlighted
some upcoming family events in the capital:
FlyinghighLondon will have a brand new
way of crossing the Thames next
summer with the introduction of
a new cable car system, running
between Greenwich Peninsula
and the Royal Victoria Docks,
sponsored by Emirates.
Called the Emirates Air Line,it will take about six minutes to
cross the river using 20-34
cabins, each accommodating 10
seated passengers.
For more information, go to
www.theemiratesgroup.com
.
n How the EmiratesAir Line will look
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86 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
out & about nwhat’s on and where
Pubstroll
W
hat better way
to enjoy the
glorious dis- play of autumn colours
than to take a long walk –
and then end up in the
pub! Within
Warwickshire
(www.withinwarwickshire.co.uk )
outlines the top pub
walks in the county for
taking in the sights and
enjoying local fare. The
4.3-mile Ilmington and
Cotswolds walk starts in
the village of Ilmington,taking in stunning views
over the Vale of Evesham
from Ilmington Down,
the highest point in rural
Warwickshire, and is best
savoured with a drink and
pub meal in the 400-year-
old Howard Arms.
The Kings Head at
Aston Cantlow claims that
William Shakespeare’s
parents tucked into their
wedding breakfast there
after marrying in the
village church in 1557;
take a 5.5-mile circular
walk via paths and bridle-
ways to this lovely Tudor
pub or enjoy some canal-
side rambling, taking in
Baddesley Clinton, closely
linked to the gunpowder
plot of 1605, and Pack-
wood House on the
Lapworth and Two
National Trust Houses
route, finishing up in the
Boot Inn country pub in
Lapworth.
Halloween falls at the end of half
term; scare the kids back to school
with our suggestions for some
Halloween-themed events:
Scarecrows andskeletonsThe Freak Week Fright Nights at the
Hop Farm in Paddock Wood, Kent
( www.hopfarmfreakweek.co.uk),
from October 27-31, are not for
the faint-at-heart. Concluding the
attraction’s Scarecrows and
Skeletons week, where more
sedate Halloween activities such as
apple bobbing and broomstick
games are prevalent, Freak Week
includes a live séance, the slaughter
house maze and the torture cellar
live attraction.
Rail spookyYou can take a spooky steam train
ride on the Halloween and Fright
Night special trains at the Kent and
East Sussex Railway
( www.kesr.org.uk) on October
28 and 29. The evenings start with
face painting and pumpkin carving,
with fireworks and other surprises
on the journey from Tenterden to
Bodiam station.
Bat walkBeWILDerwood
( www.bewilderwood.co.uk),
Norfolk’s award-winning adventure
park, hosts the Snagglefang Spooky
Spectacular from October 24-30
with lantern making, mask decorating
and a dusk lantern parade while
events at Holkham Hall
( www.holkham.co.uk) from
October 27-30 include searching for
giant spiders in the Bygones museum,
Halloween horror basement tours,
and a dusk bat walk.
Ghostly gaslightBlists Hill Victorian Town, near
Ironbridge in Shropshire,
( www.ironbridge.org.uk ) plays
host to its annual Ghostly Gaslight
Halloween event on Saturday,
October 29 where the friendly
Victorians usually seen in the town
are replaced by ghosts, ghouls and
things that go bump in the night.
Terrifying towersAlton Towers ( www.altontowers.com)
sees the return of its annual
Scarefest this Halloween (October
15-31), featuring the Boiler House
Carnival of Screams and the Tower
of Terror, alongside regular rides
Nemesis and Oblivion, all available
on one ticket. Alton Towers is open
daily until November 6.
Longleat’s own ghoulLongleat Safari & Adventure Park’s
( www.longleat.co.uk) seasonalevents programme includes a
Spookfest of Tricks and Treats from
October 22-31 with terrifying tales
in Longleat House, watching out
for the Grey Lady (Longleat’s very
own resident ghost) as well as a
pumpkin trail and getting up close
and personal with the bats in the
infamous Bat Cave.
Bard timesThere are many Halloween events to
enjoy in Shakespeare Country
( www.shakespeare-country.co.uk)
including Spooky Shakespeare at
Anne Hathaway’s Cottage, with a
grisly trail through the woods to
find Shakespeare characters, and
the Winter Wake at Mary Arden’s
Farm for pumpkin carving and to
learn about the plague and
pestilence in the Tudor period.
Warwick Castle ( www.warwick-
castle.com) has Halloween events
for all ages from October 26-31,
including the Haunted Castle after
Dark experience; on selected dates,
5.30-9pm.
Trains,fangsand pumpkin
trails
A l t o n T o w e r s
W a r w i c k s h i r e C
o u n t y C o u n c i l
T h e H o p F a r m F a m i l y P a r k
n Pumpkin funat Alton Towers
n The Howard Arms
n Freaky: Hop Farm
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out & about nwhat’s on and where
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 87
Christmas is just around the
corner and there are numerousevents to help you prepare and
get in the festive mood.
Dickens of a timeThere is no better place to have
a Dickensian Christmas market
(www.dickenschristmasmarket.com)
than in the historic city of
Rochester in Kent where Charles
Dickens once lived. From
November 30-December 8, the
medieval castle will be
illuminated in red and green with
rows of fairy light-draped stalls,
selling handmade gifts, mulled
wine and seasonal treats, while
costumed characters, bands andcarol singers entertain the
crowds.
Tree-mendousBritain’s biggest Christmas tree –
a 118-foot redwood tree,
decorated with 1,800 lights –
will be lit up on November 25 at
Wakehurst Place, the Royal
Botanic Gardens’ country estate
in Sussex ( www.kew.org). A
choir singing carols and
Christmas craft activities for
children will accompany the big
switch-on while on selected
dates in December carol singers
and Santa Claus will be in
residence, and festive walks and
storytelling sessions for childrenwill take place.
Santa specialsWinchester is vying to be
England’s Christmas capital and,
from the switch-on on
November 17, there are many
Christmas events throughout
November and December. A
dedicated new website
(www.christmasinwinchester.co.uk)has all the details but highlights
include a month-long Christmas
market, an ice rink in the Cathedral
courtyard and Santa special trains
on the Watercress line.
Festive Queen Vic
Head to the Isle of Wight
( www.wightlink.co.uk) for
Christmas celebrations including
a Santa Special train to the
Winter Wonderland at
Havenstreet station and a display
of royal Christmas decorations
and elaborate tableaux vivants at
Osborne House (www.english-
heritage.org.uk/osbornehouse),which is also hosting a Victorian
Christmas weekend from
November 19-20 with visits
from Father Christmas and
Queen Victoria...
S pecial displays at Margate’s Turner Contemporary gallery
(www.turnercontemporary.org)
– located on the site where Turner stayed
when visiting the town – include Auguste
Rodin’s famous marble sculpture, The
Kiss, on view since October 4 until
September 2, 2012, and, from January 28-
May 13, 2012, the gallery’s first major
exhibition of Turner’s work; Turner and the
Elements, a selection of oils and water-
colours based around the classical ele-
ments of Earth, Fire, Air and Water.
One of the most iconic images of
sexual love, The Kiss was voted the
nation’s favourite work of art in a 2003
poll; the embracing couple come from a
true 13th century story of forbidden love,
immortalised in Dante’s Inferno.
One of three full-size versions of the
sculpture created in Rodin’s lifetime, it is
on loan from The Tate.
Christmas is coming....
Tree wheelersSave all your kisses for me
The new Forest
Segway adven-
tures, introduced by leading forest tree-top
adventure company Go
Ape in conjunction with
the Forestry Commission,
are the perfect way to
spend a day exploring
specially-designed, off-
road forest routes on self-
balancing electric, easy-
to-use segways. The
courses, at its sites in
Thetford Forest, Bracknell
Forest and Moors Valley
in Bournemouth, are suit-
able for all from 10 years
of age and over; for more
information go to:
www.goapeforestsegway.co.uk .
V i s i t B r i t a i n
V i s i t B r i t a i n
F o r
e s t S e g w a y T
a t e ,
L o n d o n 2 0 1 1
V i s i t B r i t a i n
R B G
K e w
n Rochester procession
nRochester carols
n Wakehurst Place
n A drawingroom at
Osborne House
n Rodin’ssaucysculpture
n Forest fun
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tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 201188
I GREAT DAYS OUT
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Autumn 2011 tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 89
- STUNNING VIEWS OF BRIGHTON
HOVE AND THE SOUTH COAST
- YOUR OWN GUIDED TOUR FROM £48
FLIGHTS DEPART FROM SHOREHAM AIRPORT
– BOOKING ESSENTIAL
GREAT DAYS OUT I
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driving n into 2012
Hit theroad, Jack
92 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 2011
Did our California feature inspire you to jump
in a car and drive the gorgeous Pacific Coast
Highway? From the next issue we will have a
dedicated focus on driving some of the other classic
driving routes worldwide. We will show you some of
the most celebrated roads, where you can enjoy
sweeping curves, tight hairpin bends and stunning
scenery – all from the comfort of your four wheels.
With planned routes and top driving tips, we will
encourage you to take the top down, throw on the
shades and experience the exhilaration of hitting the
road in some style. Fasten your seatbelts!
n Bixby Bridge is one of the highlights of the stunning Big Sur section on California’sPacific Coast Highway
California Travel & Tourism Commission
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driving n into 2012
Autumn 2011 tlm n the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk 93
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Médecins Sans Frontières (MSF) gives free professional medical care to the people who need
it most. In countries devastated by conflict, natural disaster or povert y, our staff battle
epidemics, run emergency clinics and provide basic health services.
Find out where we work, what we do and how you can help at www.msf.org.uk English Charity Reg No. 1026588
T h e c o s t s o f p r o d u c i n g t h i s a d v e r t w e r e k i n d l y d o n a t e d t o M S F
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tlm I the travel & leisure magazine www.tlm-magazine.co.uk Autumn 201196
To advertise in tlm – the travel & leisure magazine – please call 0203 176 2570
To advertise in tlm – the travel & leisure magazine – please call 0203 176 2570
I CLASSIFIED
CORNWALL DORSET NEW FOREST
CUMBRIA
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
NORFOLK
DEVON NORTHUMBRIA
www.visit-rothbury.co.uk the user friendly website forNorthumberland with accommodation
and information for visitors
Pict
ure post-card villa
ges
Pictu
re perfe
ct countryside
Pict
ure yoursel
f here
Rot
hbury and Coque
tdale Tour
ism Assoc
ia
t
ion
• Secluded & Peaceful• Close to Seafront and Town
• Bar Snacks & Evening Dinner• Delicious Devon Produce
• Regency Drawing Room opening onto Sunny Veranda• Indoor Pool & Gym • Parking
• Ideal for exploring Devon, Walking and the Jurassic Coast• Historic and Charming • Friendly and Attentive
We look forward to welcoming you
www.royalglenhotel.co.uk01395513221/513456
Royal Glen HotelGlen Road Sidmouth EX10 8RW
New ForestA comfortable family bungalow
in a pleasant garden just 3 milesfrom the sea.
• Sleeps 6 • Dogs welcome• Car parking spaces
For further details telephone
01923 236 898
Kett Country Cottages have 150cottages acrossNorth Norfolk.Most accept pets atno charge.
Short breaks available.
01328 856853or kettcountrycottages.co.uk
HOLT, NORTHNORFOLKCosy cottage in lovely town.
Pubs, restaurants,galleries andshops
inwalkingdistance.Sleeps4.Gas
central heating, openfirewith logs,
parking&garden.
www.jims-cottage.co.uk 01158462271
FOREST OF DEAN4 STARSELF-CATERING INA VILLAGELOCATION
Two, one bedroom holiday cottages,one double, one twin with sofa bed.
www.gordonhousecottages.co.ukTel:01452760109or07710427008
Four luxury cottages and B&Bsituated in the tranquil Dorset countryside
with panoramic views overThomas Hardy's Blackmore Vale.
Watch badgers and birds from our wildlifehide, scenic walks, fishing lake,
games room, only 1/2 hour to sea.
Tel: 01300 345511
www.bookhamcourt.co.uk please quote tlm when calling
Bookham Court Holiday Cottages
FarmhouseB&Bon themagnificentRoselandPeninsula, an idealbase
forexploringCornwall.
www.trewithian-farm.co.uk
tel: 01872 580 293
CUTKIVE WOODHOLIDAY LODGES
relax and enjoy Cornwall
01579 362216
www.cutkivewood.co.uk
CreeksideCottages
SelfCateringHoliday
Cottages inCornwall
01326375972
www.creeksidecottages.co.uk
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To advertise in tlm – the travel & leisure magazine please call 0203 176 2570
I CLASSIFIED
NORTH CYPRUS
DAYS OUT GIFTS TRAVEL PRODUCTSWINTER SUN
WORLDWIDE
UK SPA BREAKS
PORTUGAL
UK WILDLIFE
WILDLIFE GIFTS
One of the finestcollections of
hotels in NorthernCyprus with
something to meet
everyone’sexpectations and
budget.
tel: 02392 230030www.cyprusdirectholidays.com
G e t m o r e f o r y o u r £ £ £ s : a n o n - E u r o d e s t i n a t i o n
T H E N O R T H E R N C Y P R U S S P E C I A L I S T S
Worldwide Tailor-made
Holidays & Tours
0800 028 1951 www.othertravel.co.uk
100% financial protection
lion-tiger
cheetah
meerkat
gorilla
rhino
hippo-tree frog-agama-chimpanzee-wolf-giraffe & more
leopard
elephant
polar bear
orang utan
bear
Erin House PrintsGreat Choice,
Great Value
www.eh-p.com
for luxury day spaand retreats
The Lorrens Ladies Health Hydro
Cary Park, Torquay 01803 329994
www.lorrens-health-hydro.co.uk
Essex Wildlife Trust Fingringhoe Wick Visitor Centre & Nature Reserve
Saturday 12th & Sunday 13th November 10am-4pmGuided Bird Identification Walks – Optic Advice and Sales by
professional bird tour leaders. Watch thousands of waders and wildfowl at the fantastic Fingringhoe Wick nature reserve.
No Booking Required – Donation £2 per adult requested
FingringhoeWick Visitor Centre & Nature Reserve,South Green Road, FingringhoeColchester, Essex CO5 7DN Tel: 01206 729678Email: [email protected] www.essexwt.org.uk
Rent a row of vinesin a family-run vineyard
www.3dwines.comor please call us on 01205 820745
G Wine from your own vineyard
G 30 enchanting family-run domaines
G Gold Medal-winning wines
G Vineyard tours and tastings
AUTUMN & WINTER OFFERS
Authentic North Cyprus withthe Experts
Flights from Stansted, Manchester& Birmingham to Ercan airport
NEW PRESIDENT HOLIDAYS For reservations please call 0208 406 4440For your FREE brochure please call 0208 406 4449
ABTA W7161 & ATOL 6118 protected
[email protected] www.newpresidentholidays.com
STALBANSORGANTHEATRE
320CampRoad StAlbansHertfordshireTel: 01727 869693 / 768652
A permanentexhibition ofmusical instruments
Organs byDecap, Bursens andMortier;MillsViolano-Virtuoso;reproducingpianos
byMarshall&Wendell,Steinway, andWeber;Musicalboxes;Wurlitzerand Rutt
TheatrePipeOrgans.
For informationoncurrentopeningtimespleasecall01727869693
www.stalbansorgantheatre.org.uk
Adults£5.00; Child£3.00; Familyticket £12.00;Concessions£4.00.Organisedgroups byarrangement
RegisteredCharitableTrustNo.276072
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