THE ITALIAN RENAISSANCE c. 1400 - 1600 · Slide 1 Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate

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c. 1400 - 1600THE ITALIAN RENAISSANCE

C H A P T E R S E V E N

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Slide 2 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

2C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

The Italian Peninsula was divided into a number of city-states where powerful families ruled.

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Slide 3 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

3C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

To display their wealth, they commissioned impressive houses, public buildings, and works of art.

See the Palazzo Ducale (1444–82)

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Slide 4 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

4C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Both men and women of the upper classes wore

handsome garments made of elaborate fabrics.

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Slide 5 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

5C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Undergarments for men changed little from the medieval braies.

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Slide 6 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

6C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

A man’s shirt, called a camicia (an Italian word for chemise), was made of linen.

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Slide 7 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

7C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

These undergarments changed little over the course of the Italian Renaissance. Working men, their hose loosened, often wore them for hard labor.

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Slide 8 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

8C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Women's basic undergarment, resembling the chemise, was also called a camicia. It too, remained much the same for the next two centuries.

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Slide 9 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

9C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Italian Renaissance styles for men c. 1400-1450 were similar to those in the rest of Europe: doublets, houppelandes, hukes. Shoes never became as pointed.

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Slide 10 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

10C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Women also wore gowns similar to houppelandes, their hair was covered less. Middle Eastern influences could be seen in the turban-

like head coverings."

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Slide 11 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

11C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Doublets extended to the waist or any place below the hip. In longer lengths, doublets were sometimes cut with a small skirt. Four seams

(front, back and both sides) allowed for a close fit.

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Slide 12 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

12C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Distinguishing between doublets and jackets is not always easy. The doublet might be worn under a jacket. Sometimes only a jacket or a doublet was worn.

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Slide 13 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

13C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Sleeve Variations

• Sleeves cut with puffed upper arm and fitted lower arm.

• Sleeve full at shoulder, tapering to wrist.

• Sleeve with openings that allow the camicia to show through.

• Removable sleeves that laced into the armhole.

Click to see the tailor

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Slide 14 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

14C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Capes and other Garments that were cut full predominated.

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Slide 15 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

15C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Women generally wore a dress and an overdress over the camicia. The two layers were not always obvious. When only one layer was visible, it either fell straight from the shoulder, which opened into full pleats or gathers over the

bustline. These full gowns where generally belted.

Zoom In

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Slide 16 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

16C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Gowns could be made with a bodice section join to a full gathered or pleated skirt. These dresses usually closed by lacing up the front and sometimes the

side. (See woman at bottom left)

Zoom In

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Slide 17 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

17C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

When two layers of dresses were obvious, the under dresses were usually made with bodices and skirts joined. They were fitted fairly closely and were visible at the neckline, sleeves, and/or under the arm of the outer dress. Outer dresses were often cult like a man’s huke, i.e., sleeveless, seamed at the shoulders, and open under the arm to display the under dress.

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Slide 18 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

18C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Women’s sleeves often fitted tightly and had to be split so the arm could bend. The camicia showed at the splits. In the later part of the period, sleeves were

generally laced into armholes.

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Slide 19 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

19C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

After 1500, women’s styles tended to show French and Spanish influences, a major feature of which was decorative slashing and paning.

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Slide 20 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

20C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

In most regions of Italy, women’s dresses, under Spanish influence, grew wider and bodices more rigid. Decorative elements of the camicia showed at the

neckline.X

Click to Enlarge

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Slide 21 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

21C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Venice maintained a distinctive style of dress with some differences from those of other regions of Italy.

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Slide 22 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

22C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Some Typical Accessories used in the Italian Renaissance

Women’s Head Coverings

Men’s Hats

Chopine

See more on the Chopine at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Jewelry

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Slide 23 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

23C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

For Further Study

Italian Renaissance Art Time Linehttp://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ht/08/eustc/ht08eustc.htm

Italian Renaissance Costume Time Linehttp://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/15thcent2.htm

Museum Collections: Italian RenaissanceSearch in collections for painting, Italian 15th and 16th century. Louvre Museum:

http://www.louvre.fr/louvrea.htmSearch in Collections for Italian 13th and 14th and 15th century. National Gallery

http://www.nga.gov/onlinetours/index.shtmUffizi Museum Collection http://www.virtualuffizi.com/uffizi/roomsidx.htm

Specialized Areas Of Costumehttp://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/chop/hd_chop.htm

Other Web Sites: Italian RenaissanceProject studying textiles and costume of Medici family and associates.

http://www.medici.org/costume/Excellent views of details of construction.

http://homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/research/flornotes/flornotes.html.

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Slide 24 

© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

24C H A P T E R S E V E NTHE ITALIAN RENAISSANCEc. 1400 - 1600

Image Credits

Photo of palazzo Ducale Urbino, courtesy of Jan Barill and Greg Wilkins.

Various images in this chapter courtesy of [www.clipart.com , 7/26/05]; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; Fairchild Library; author’s collection; illustrations by Claire King; www.medievaldesign.com, courtesy of Mr. Luciano Verzola; [ ww://wga.hu]; Jennifer Thompson, homepage.mac.com/festive_attyre/gallery/.

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