TECHNOLOGY OF ECO-FRIENDLY TEXTILE PROCESSING- A ROUTE TO
SUSTAINABILTY KEYNOTE PRESENTED BY Asif Muhammad Sami BSc. Textile
Engg, MBA, CText (ATI), Fellow- IEB, Textile Consultant CEO-
EuroAsiatic Resources, Chairman - S S Vision Ltd & Textile
Consultant - Perseus Ltd. Cell: 01819213971, email:
[email protected] Slide 2 ABSTRACTS: Textile Project like
eco-friendly or green project must be designed for sustainable
green factory building concept also textile raw materials, dyes
& chemicals, textile processes all should be based on 3R
(reduce-recycle- reuse) concept. The processing of textiles should
be cost effective and environment-friendly. Innovative and
efficient strategies to achieve these goals are needed. This paper
reports various problems in different stages of processing textile
materials and their green solutions the alternatives by which the
problems can be avoided through innovative techniques and various
measures of textile cleaner production(CP) which ensures textile
processing eco-friendly, cost effective and sustainable business.
Slide 3 ECO FRIENDLY / GREEN TEXTILES CONCEPT ECO FRIENDLY / GREEN
TEXTILES CONCEPT The project factory building should be designed on
go green concept. Textile raw materials are processed in
eco-friendly manner and certified by GOTS etc. Dyes and chemicals
should be OKEOTEX certified standard. Textile processing right from
Raw fiber, Yarn manufacturing, Weaving/knitting, wet processing,
finishing processes all should be maintained using eco- friendly
technology. Textile waste water should be treated considering basis
of 3R (reduce- recycled & re-use ) concept. Slide 4 ECO-
FRIENDLY TEXTILES PROCESSING CONCEPT Textile Cleaner Production
(CP) like Water saving, energy savings using all possible methods.
Re-use of textile waste, recycled & re-use of waste water,
recovering and re-using salt, re-use of waste heat energy. Carbon
emission control Environmental sustainability care for the
environment- Influence the supply chain to use sustainable
processes/method. Operate business in environmental friendly way.
Work to conserve water, energy and reduce / recycle waste.
Sustainable design approach explore the use sustainable materials
and products. Slide 5 NEED FOR ECO- FRIENDLY & RECYCLABLE +
RE-USABLE TEXTILES: Concerns related to textile industries are-
Textiles production and processing- chemical intensive applications
Associated social and environmental concerns GROWING CONCERNS-
Increasing industrial pollution Industrial waste disposal problems
Economic and social health of the farmers and industrial workers.
Unawareness about socially responsible business structures are
required. Slide 6 ENERGY SAVING GREEN FACTORY BUILDING SHED: Using
insulation of building walls, floor & ceiling. Replace old
windows which are bad thermal insulators. Make the building shell
as air tight as possible. Install heat exchange for proper
ventilation. Roof of sunny side should use collects solar energy.
Heavily frequented door should have automatically closing system.
Light from shaded side yields natural light but not heat. New
building using geothermal energy exchange. Use of insulation of all
steam pipe and wire duct. Using rain water for garden irrigation,
technical use or as toilet flash water. Slide 7 WHY WE ALL NEED TO
BE CONCERN ABOUT ECO- FRIENDLY (GREEN) PROCESSING IN TEXTILES:
Textiles /Garment industry is contributing to the global warming
& pollution from the stages like - Cultivation of the fibres
Yarn manufacture Fabric manufacture wet processing Manufacturing of
the garment Transportation to customers Usage and disposal Slide 8
STAGE 1: RAW MATERIALS (FIBER) CONTRIBUTORS TO CARBON FOOTPRINT
Cotton cultivation requires large amount of pesticides, fertilizers
and water. Approximately 257 gallons of water is required for only
one t- shirt. ECO-FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS: ORGANIC COTTON is
GREEN fabric. It is grown - where synthetic chemical pesticides,
fertilizers and genetically modified organisms are avoided. Organic
fertilizers such as Neem or Garlic extract are used. Slide 9
ECO-FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS Substitute cotton for other natural
eco- friendly materials like hemp, wool, organic cotton, soy silk,
bamboo fabrics,jute, corn fibre etc having without any harmful
effects of chemicals or toxics. Synthetic fabrics such as
polyesters are - Easy care and more durable alternative to natural
fabrics. - These are more energy intensive in production, but these
fibers need to be washed at lower temperatures thus saving a lot of
energy throughout their life cycle. Slide 10 ECO-FRIENDLY OR GREEN
SOLUTIONS Cellulose based fibres like viscose can be used. There
are now developments of new fibres of natural origin like Tencel
(Lyocell) made from wood. EXAMPLES OF SOME ECO-FRIENDLY FIBERS :
Organic Cotton, Organic wool, Organic Silk, Organic Jute etc
Manmade fibers like corn/Soya bean, Pineapple, Banana leaf, Lyocell
Recycled fibers like Recycled Cotton, Recycled Polyester Natural
fiber like colored Raw Cotton Slide 11 ORGANIC COTTON A SUSTAINABLE
ALTERNATIVES SOCIAL AND ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS Organic Cotton helps
in pollution control, improving soil fertility. Organic cotton
farming helps in preventing contamination of water, soil & air.
Apart from using in all diversified products, organic cotton also
suitable for baby products, apparels, hygiene and care products
like cotton balls, ear buds, sanitary pads, medical textiles,
cosmetics bags etc. Slide 12 RECYCLED COTTON; RECYCLED COTTON is
nothing but made from recovered cotton that would otherwise be cast
off during either spinning, weaving, knitting or garment cutting
process. THE DISCARDED COTTON WASTE from above mentioned process
are collected, shredded into small fibers and processed once again
into yarns and fabrics in cost effective method. RECYCLED COTTON is
also known as eco friendly choice in clothing fashion industry.
COTTON WASTE RE-CYCLING PROCESS involves no chemical addition
rather it helps in generating employment and better positive impact
in the environment (clean production). Slide 13 RECYCLED POLYESTER
(PET): Polyester is one the most non-biodegradable polymer which
creates environmental problems. Wellman inc. Introduced in 1993 as
the first polyester textile fiber made from post consumer pet
packaging. Recycled pet is used in diversified products like
backpacks and blankets, t-shirts, sportswear, soft luggage and
socks etc. Eco friendly recycled pet is certified by OEKOTEX and
SGS etc. Slide 14 STAGE 2: YARN FABRICATION AND FABRIC MANUFACTURE
Contributors to carbon footprint There are many stages required to
process cotton from fibre to fabrics the fibre are cleaned, carded
(combed) spun into yarn, coated with starches or chemicals, woven
or knitted into fabrics, Slide 15 CONTRIBUTORS TO CARBON FOOTPRINT
& GREEN SOLUTION In sizing process, starch is used in sticky
paste form to yarn to enhance its strength and its abrasion
resistance. The starch paste consists of preservative in order to
protect it from the stains get formed on the fabrics surface. Some
preservatives like penta-chloro phenol that are toxic effect on
human skin, should be avoided by utilizing a synthetic starch
decreasing the health hazards. Use oil stain remover during the
weaving operations before textile wet process so that oil stains do
not get formed. Slide 16 PROCESS INVOLVED CONTRIBUTION TO
POLLUTIONS FIBRE PREPARATION YARN SPINNING Fiber waste, Packaging
waste, packaging waste, sized yarn, fiber waste, cleaning and
processing waste Slide 17 PROCESS INVOLVED CONTRIBUTION TO
POLLUTIONS SLASHING/SIZING WEAVING KNITTING Fiber lint, yarn waste,
unused starch based sizes, water with high level of BOD, COD
Packaging waste, yarn waste and fabric scraps, used oil. Waste yarn
and fabric scraps packaging Slide 18 WASTE YARN AND FABRIC SCRAPS
PACKAGING Textile processing industry requires huge volume of
water, energy & various chemicals for Desizing, Scouring,
Mercerization, dyeing, printing and finishing stage. Textile
industry, backbone of fashion garments, is large variation in
demand of type, pattern & color of fabric resulting into
significant fluctuation in waste generation. Textile processing
generates much waste steam, including liquid gaseous and solid
wastes, some of which may be hazardous. Wet processing creates the
highest volume of waste water. Textile finishing represents the
most variable area in the production process. A wide and
ever-growing range of finishes are now available that either
improves the properties, handle or texture of the fabric. Slide 19
TEXTILE WET PROCESSING- VITAL ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUE Some important
environmental concerns related to textile wet processing; Intensive
chemical based wet processing like scouring, bleaching,
mercerizing, dyeing, printing etc Heavy metals like iron, lead,
copper etc consist in dyestuffs auxiliaries, binders etc. Residual
dyestuffs, chemicals in water: due to poor dye fixation with fiber.
PVC and Phathalets: used in Plastisol printing paste and colorant
fixatives. Formaldehyde: found in dispersing agents, printing paste
and colorant fixatives. Dye effluent-wastewater issue. Slide 20
CONTRIBUTORS TO CARBON FOOTPRINT The conventional preparation
process of Desizing, Scouring and Bleaching with their related
wash-off stages, produces heavy BOD in effluents. Chlorine used in
bleaching creates halogenated organic substances, of which some are
suspected to be carcinogenic e.G.., Chloroform thus is not
preferred. Use of banned amines and toxic dyes, banned amines are
the chemicals which are released from some of the azo dyes on
reductive cleavage. These are suspected to be carcinogenic and
being banned. Carriers ( disperse dyes) and solvents may be emitted
during dyeing operations may lead to volatilization of aqueous
Slide 21 CONTRIBUTORS TO CARBON FOOTPRINT hemical emulsions during
heat setting, drying or curing process, thus creating harmful
volatile organic compounds. Acetic acid and Formaldehyde are two
major emissions of concern in textiles. Textile mills usually
generate Nitrogen and Sulphur oxides from boilers. Significant
sources of air emissions in textile operations -Resin finishing and
dyeing operations, printing, fabric preparation and waste water
treatment plants hydrocarbons are emitted.These processes can emit
formaldehyde, acids, softeners and other volatile compounds. Wool
industry used chlorine based compounds for anti-shrinking dealing
and such practice also generates toxic effluents. Oxalic Acid is
used for removing rust stains before bleaching. The oxalic acid is
lethal aquatic organisms and increase COD & BOD to a
significant level. Slide 22 TEXTILE PROCESSESCONTRIBUTION TO
POLLUTION SIZING DESIZING SCOURING BLEACHING Penta-chloro phenol as
anti mildew agent Vocs from glycol esters Emulsifying agents like
nonyl phenyl ethyloxylates, chloroform as scoring assistance.
Hypochlorite (chlorine bleaching) products like chlorine dioxide
Slide 23 TEXTILE PROCESSES CONTRIBUTION TO POLLUTIONS DYEING &
PRINTING FINISHING Azo dyes containing carcinogenic amines CDFA
based on formaldehydes dyes containing heavy metals such as Iron,
Zinc etc Formaldehyde as mordant Formaldehyde fixer/binder in
pigment printing Formaldehyde as cross linker Reactive softener
metal fluorides, DDT, and other anti bacterial materials containing
metals in rot proofing. Amides like melamine amides in water
repellent Slide 24 ECO-FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS: Dyes made from
natural pigments and soymilk used as binding agent and sizing agent
makes the whole dyeing gentler on the environment. Dyes that forms
carcinogenic amines on reduction and thus increase bod/cod need to
be avoided. Where possible, use high fastness direct dyes having
90% upto 99% exhaustion rate should be chosen instead of using
reactive dyes which having low exhaustion rate 65%-75% to reduce
dyeing cost as well as etp running cost. Usage of Hydrol as a
substitute of sodium sulphide is recommended for sulphur dyeing.
low salt Dyeing process requires more salt for exhaustion. So usage
dyes may be used. Slide 25 ECO-FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS: An
integrated chemical pre-treatment (single bath process) i.e.
Combined Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching is recommended to reduce the
water, chemical consumption and also energy. Fabrics to be dyed
with deeper shades may not be bleached. In case of dyeing and
printing toxic chemicals may be avoided. Formaldehyde free resins
and finishing chemicals may be used for finishing. Slide 26
SUSTAINABLE PROCESSING OF TEXTILES: EXPLORE INTO BIO PROCESSING OF
TEXTILES - Bio-processing can simply be defined as the applicant of
living organisms and their components to industrial products and
processes, which are mainly based on enzymes. Like- Enzymatic
Desizing- by using Amylase bacteria. Enzymatic bio scouring ( by
using lipase/cellulase enzyme)- saves water by 30% and energy upto
60%, less fabric weight loss & strength loss, better fabric
quality and enhanced color brightness after dyeing & low TDS in
discharge. Enzymatic bleaching (Catalases/laccases for removal of
H2O2) saves water, energy, shorten bleaching process cycle, eco
friendly process and consistent bleaching result, saves chemicals.
* Bio polishing and Eznymatic based softeners (Cellulase) etc-
enzymatic bio-finishing yields a cleaner surface, softer hand-feel,
reduces pilling and increases luster. Slide 27 EXPLORE INTO BIO
PROCESSING OF TEXTILES - EXPLORE INTO BIO PROCESSING OF TEXTILES -
BIO-STONE WASHING (DENIM FINISHING) Using a special cellulase
enzyme instead of pumic stones. Cellulase works by loosening the
indigo dye on the denim in a process known as bio-stonewashing. A
small dose of enzyme can replace several kilograms of pumice
stones. The use of less pumice stones results in less damage to
garment, machine and less pumice dust in the laundry environment;
in addition, its possible to fade denim without risk of damaging
the garment. DECOLORIZATION OF DYE HOUSE EFFLUENT BY ENZYME:
Laccase enzymse produced from fungi like Trametes Modesta or
Trametes Versicolo etc as Fungi are used for dye decolourization in
effluent treatment which is major factor for environmental issue.
Slide 28 ECO-FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS: ECO-FRIENDLY SUPLHUR
DYEING METHOD: Since sulphur dyes as single dyes alone consumption
20%-25% for cotton dyeing in the world. Using eco-friendly thioria
di-oxide or indirect cathodic reduction/electrolysis method (
although relative expensive than traditional method) avoiding
traditional sodium sulphide can save dyes consumption. ECOFRIENDLY
REACTIVE DYEING: Various environmental problems encountered in
reacting such as high levels salt & high color concentration (
unfixed dyes) in effluent with huge volume of water
consumed.Reactive dyes poor fixation of ranging 10%-40% dyestuff
hydrolysed goes down drain which is aesthetically unpleasant,
blocks sunlight, algae overpopulate, reduction in o 2 levels in
water, suffocation of flora and fauna in water courses. Therefore,
water effluent treatment plant is now becoming prime consideration
by the industry and equally important as the production of textile
product itself. Slide 29 ECO-FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS:
Significant amount of water consumption, energy consumption, dyeing
cost and effluent load can minimized by using either cationic
surfactants ( instead of salts) Or dyes with high exhaustion rate
90%-99% ( preferably direct dyes) instead of reactive dyes with low
exhaustion rate 60%- 80%) As a result of being cationic (instead of
anionic) pretreated cotton, the number advantages recorded such as:
No requirement for salt Nucleophiles in polymer more reactive than
hydroxyl roups in fibre. Neutral ph of application Hydrolysis
minimised Colour fixation yield maximised Less colour in effluent
Slide 30 ECO-FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS: Less wash-off requirement
Significant reduction in operation time Significant reduction in
water consumption DEGREE OF FIXATION OF DIFFERENT DYES ON FIBER ARE
FOLLOWS: DYES----------- FIBER----------%FIXATION ----%LOSS IN ETP
ACID DYES----POLYAMIDE--- 80-90--------------5.0-- 20.0 BASIC
DYES---- ACRYLIC--------- 95-100-------0.0 5.0 DIRECT DYES ---
CELLULOSE---85 - 99-------1.0 15.0 REACTIVE DYES -CELLULOSE-50.0-
85.0----15.0 50.0 SULPHUR DYES-- CELLULOSE--60.0- 90.0---10.0--
40.0 DISPERSE DYES --- PES----------90.0100.0----0.0 10.0 METAL
COMPLEX --- WOOL-------90 98 -------2.0 Slide 31 WATER FREE DYEING
(SUPERCRITICAL FLUID DYEING): Uses carbon dioxide as the fluid
medium on disperse-dyed synthetics, eliminating aqueous effluent.
Slide 32 ECO- FRIENDLY EFFLUENT TREATMENT METHOD (BIO TECHNOLGY):
Combined biological system with electron- beam or advanced
oxidation process (AOP) method or Reverse Osmosis (RO). Slide 33
SCHEMATIC PROCESS FLOW DIAGRAM OF ELOECTRON BEAM METHOD COMBINATION
WITH BIOLOGICAL SYSTEM ETP Slide 34 CLEANER PRODUCTION (CP) IN THE
TEXTILE WET PROCESSING For sustainable eco-friendly textile
processing,cleaner production in each stage of specially textile
wet processing is must. Cleaner production includes: Steam trap
maintenance Insulation of un insulated steam and condensate return
pipelines Insulation of steam valves, tanks, pumps etc. Re-use
flash steam Using boiler economizer Insulated hot water tank with
dyeing machine. Slide 35 CLEANER PRODUCTION (CP) IN THE TEXTILE WET
PROCESSING Condensate recovery Following right first time (RFT)
dyeing method concept. Use multi functional concentrated chemicals
and high exhaustion rate dyes reduces effluent problems. Huge water
savings by adopting eliminate water leaks in taps and pipes, use
rain water, closed cooling system, continuous dyeing, digital
printing, co2 dyeing, reduce washing and rinsing process cycles,
Reuse water drained out of steam condensates Minimize washing and
rinsing (overflow) operations Slide 36 CLEANER PRODUCTION IN THE
TEXTILE WET PROCESSING Reuse of the first wash water from solution
preparation tanks Restrain hose pipe use and create a central cut
sample washing place. Insulate steam pipes Optimize operation of
air compressors and chilling plants Use transparent roofs Reduce
spillage of chemicals Use of magnetic device for soft water in
boiler. Recover and re- use of waste heat ( using heat exchanger)
Co-generation/ tri generation system where ever feasible. Using
frequency inverter, peak load management, servo motor where ever
applicable, electronic ballast, energy saving lights, Increase
fabric to water ratio to 1:6 or even less. Automatic boiler blow
down mechanism Recovery & re-use of sodium sulfate using zero
discharge etp Improve process control stages to avoid reprocessing
Improve trial recipe in laboratory Slide 37 CLEANER PRODUCTION IN
THE TEXTILE WET PROCESSING Improve process control stages to avoid
reprocessing Improve trial recipe in laboratory Use of magnetic
device for soft water in boiler. Recover and re- use of waste heat
( using heat exchanger) Co-generation/ tri generation system where
ever feasible. Using frequency inverter, peak load management,
servo motor where ever applicable, electronic ballast, energy
saving lights, Increase fabric to water ratio to 1:6 or even less.
Automatic boiler blow down mechanism Recovery & re-use of
sodium sulfate using zero discharge etp Improve process control
stages to avoid reprocessing Improve trial recipe in laboratory
Slide 38 STAGE 4: GARMENT MANUFACTURING CONTRIBUTORS TO CARBON
FOOTPRINT Many processes are involved in garment manufacturing and
pollution occurs in each and every stage. 1. In designing
department making of prototypes produces garbages like fabric
scraps, pattern papers stationary items, etc. 2. Production
department undertakes spreading, cutting and sewing responsibility.
This department generates large amount of waste in form of
cardboard boxes, labels, tapes, thread cones, stickers and fabric
scraps Slide 39 CONTRIBUTORS TO CARBON FOOTPRINT 3. Finishing
department contributes to pollution while the fabric goes various
processes like washing, pressing, stain removal, inspection,
folding and packing. This consumes water and also some chemicals
such as detergents, liquid soap, acetone, amyl, etc. Which are used
in washing and stain removal and garbages also produced in packing
of materials. 4. Miscellaneous sections include computerised
embroidery section, effluent treatment plant, kitchen, canteen,
mess and general maintenance which also contribute in pollution.
Slide 40 DEPARTMENTS CONTRIBUTIONS TO POLLUTIONS ADMINISTRATIVE
DEPARTMENTS DESIGN & LINE DEVELOPMENT DEPERTMENTS PRODUCTION
DEPARTMENT FINISHING DEPARTMENT MISCELLANEOUS DEPARTMENT Stationary
waste, packing waste, etc Packing waste, fabric waste, paper
pattern waste, etc yarn waste, packing waste, threads, tapes,
fusing rolls, fabric scraps, ploy bags and stickers. Packing waste,
chemicals contributing to high bod/cod levels in waste water.
Packing waste, fabric scraps and fuel Slide 41 ECO-FRIENDLY OR
GREEN SOLUTIONS Various elements that are used in design i.E,
colour, texture, fasteners, fabrics, etc, the components of these
should be maintained as a ready data bank. Biodegradable trims
should be preferred against synthetic trims e.G., Natural buttons
made up of peral, wood, shell, leather, porcelain and bone. Plastic
and metal buttons may be avoided. Avoid use of fusible
interfacings, which incorporate solvent treated adhesives as
solvents like formaldehyde have been classified as unsafe for the
environment as per standard given by OEKO-TEX 100. * Use of
materials such as heavy metals like chrome, lead, nickel used as
fasteners like zippers and buttons are considered unfriendly to
environment. Slide 42 Use of large baler bags for storage or
supplies especially at fabric store where the fabric is stored in
individual poly bags. CAD & CAM system can be used to gain
optimum fabric Utilization. Installation of leds (9w) at the needle
points of sewing machines will help to reduce the overall
requirements of tube lights in the stitching section. Regular
maintenance, lubrication and upkeep of the machine using white oil
Mobil oil will result in improvement in efficiency of the machine.
Usage of eco-friendly lubricants and stain removers, which are free
from chlorinated solvents. Prefer using of eco friendly hang tags
that can be hung to the garment by thread rather than using plastic
staple or string. * Apparel can be packaged in bio-degradable
pvc-free packaging and in 100% recycled cardboard boxes. Slide 43
STEP 5: TRANSPORTATION AND DISTRIBUTION CONTRIBUTION TO POLLUTION
Some forms of transportation have more emissions than the others
for e.g. Transporting one tonne of goods over a distance of 100 km
emits 0.7 kg of CO2 by ship, or 158.0 kg by air. ECO-FRIENDLY OR
GREEN SOLUTIONS Use the bus or train rather than car for
transporting goods and for travelling purpose. Consider cleaner
fuels like ethanol e10 or Bio-diesel which reduces CO2 emission
significant amount. Slide 44 STAGE 6: USE OF TEXTILE GOODS AND
DISPOSAL CONTRIBUTORS TO CARBON FOOTPRINT More than last two
decades clothing has become increasingly affordable for everyone.
Retailers and brands have capitalized on this affordability by
moving away from summer and winter collection to fresh collections
more than last two decades clothing has become increasingly
affordable for everyone. Slide 45 ECO-FRIENDLY OR GREEN SOLUTIONS
Recycle as much as possible. For example, old fabrics can be used
to make wipes or to make quilts, appliqu work. Cellulosic waste
fabric can be recycled for making handmade paper. ENVIRONMENTAL
SUSTAINABILITY Need to believe in environmental sustainability
Implementing incremental steps in supply chain process to
accomplish. Need to be aware about the social, economical and
ecological benefits of environmentally sustainable product
development processes. Slide 46 CONCLUSION: The concept of
eco-friendly designing products from start to finish has come
about. It involves considering the ecological dimension of the
entire production process, from the fibre to the finished product,
including its manufacturing processes, but also its packaging and
labeling, right the way through to recycling & reuse the
product at the end of its period following 3R concept. So
sustainable green trends in processing of textiles are: Maintaining
of high & consistent quality product in cost effective manner.
Improved functionality Lower generation of aqueous waste and off-
gases Minimum use or reuse of water and chemicals Overall
environment friendliness. Reduce water and energy consumption
during preparation, coloration and finishing (CP). Improve process
efficiency -Reduce exposure to hazardous chemicals Slide 47 Slide
48 Slide 49 Slide 50 Slide 51 QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS ??? Slide
52