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Summer Lovin’ Supply List
Design: Summer Lovin’ by Claudia Dinnell $80.00 (each student must purchase the design)
Fabric Supply List: 2 yards White or light blue, pink, or yellow tone on tone background fabric 1 yard Inner Border and Sashing Fabric 4 yards Fusible Woven Interfacing by OESD or Shape Flex 101 by Pellon 2 yards Outer Border Fabric ¾ yard Binding 4 yards Backing 72” x 72” Batting
Embroidery Supply List: Minimum Hoop Requirements: 8” wide x12” high All Hoops must have a grid/template Light to Medium Weight Tear Away (5 yards) 5 yards Polymesh Cutaway Stabilizer (20” wide) Temporary Adhesive Spray Removable fabric marking pen (thin tip/ do not use air erasable) Embroidery Needles 80/12 and 90/14 Sharps Terial Magic Starch Basic embroidery kit including small doubled curved scissors, long straight pointy tweezers, snag nab it, Large Wonder Clips (4) to hold embroidery out of the way Threads: Isacord 40 wt. Embroidery Thread 3962 River Mist Blue (ocean) 1755 Hyacinth Pink (sand) 1344 Coffee Bean Brown (posts 4114 Danish Teal Blue (ocean) 2051 Teaberry Pink (sand) 0605 Sunshine Yellow (sun) 3906 Pacific Blue (ocean) 2153 Dusty Mauve (sand) 2520 Garden Rose (umbrella) 4531 Caribbean Blue (ocean) 2241 Mauve (sand) 0931 Honey Brown (fence) 3611 Blue Ribbon (ocean) 5912 Erin (Bright) Green (grass) Aurifil 50wt 2 ply Thread Black Color 2910 Grape (surfboard) (used for machine embroidered outline 1300 Tangerine Orange (surfboard) of the designs instead of Isacord) 0131 Smoke Gray (bicycle & dolphin) 0014 White (ocean foam) Sewing Supply List 50wt. Cotton Thread matching the fabric for piecing Basic sewing kit including scissors, pins, rotary cutter & mat, long straight ruler, etc. Optional but recommended: 20 ½” square ruler for accurate marking & trimming Note: Please bring a USB drive that works with your embroidery machine.
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Cutting Instructions for Summer Lovin’
Background Fabric (2 Yards):
Cut (3) strips 24”x 40” or Width of Fabric
Sub Cut first 24”x40” strip into: (2) 12”x40” strips Sub Cut each 12”x40” strip into: (1) 12” Block & (1) 12”x24” Block Ending up with the following blocks: (1) 12”x24” Seagulls Block (1) 12”x24 Surfboards Block (1) 12”x12” Beach Ball Block (1) 12”x12 Lighthouse Block
Sub Cut second 24”x40” strip into: (1) 24 x 24” Sandcastle Block (1) 12”x12” Sail Boat Block (1) 12”x12” Sunglasses Block
Sub Cut Third 24”x40” strips into: (1) 24”x12” Bicycle Block (1) 24”x12” Dolphin Block Starch each separate block with Terial Magic: Follow manufactures instructions. Press / iron each block.
Fusible Woven Interfacing: (4 yards of Fusible Woven Interfacing by OESD or SHAPE FLEX by Pellon 101)
Cut the
Fusible Woven Interfacing into the sections shown above.
Center the interfacing (it is smaller than the fabric) to the back side of each starched (with Terial Magic) block.
Spray with water: Use your hands to smooth out the moistened interfacing over the fabric
Set the steam iron on the center area of the interfacing and hold the iron long enough to seal the two layers together, but not so long that it burns! Repeat until all the interfacing is sealed to the fabric
If “air bubbles” are showing on the fabric, you need to spray with water and press again
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Fabric Preparation Instructions
Instructions for all Blocks (blocks should already have the interfacing applied to the back of them) Polymesh Cutaway Stabilizer: Cut the Polymesh large enough to have a 3” border around the fabric block. You may need
to piece (use adhesive spray) two sections of the Polymesh to get the size needed.
Make sure the pieces of Polymesh overlap each other by 3”-4”.
Center the interfaced fabric block on the pieced Polymesh. Use adhesive spray to fuse the Polymesh to the block. The fabric should be smooth and lay flat. Each fabric block will have a 3-4” border of Polymesh surrounding it. This border is important when hooping!
Marking the Blocks: Use an erasable pen but do not use an air erasable pen.
Mark with thin clean lines. Do not go over the lines multiply times!!
On the front (right side) of each block, draw a center crosshair the full length and width of the fabric. The lines are perpendicular to each other.
Draw an additional line 5” above & below the center horizontal line on the rectangle shaped blocks. No need for extra lines on the square blocks.
Write the word “Top” at the top of each fabric block: refer to the cutting instructions for the “Top of Fabric”.
Sew the Stabilizer to the Blocks
Sew (using a walking/dual feed foot) close to the edge (¼”) completely around the edge of the fabric. Use a normal stitch length. This will secure the stabilizer to the fabric and reduce stretching during embroidery. The two fabrics must be smooth and lay flat without puckers. (Sandcastle block shown)
The Solid Black lines on the fabric area in the picture: Represent the drawn center crosshair lines and the lines 5” above & below the center horizontal line. The lines are perpendicular to each other.
Dotted lines in the picture: represent the stitches around the edge of the fabric securing the fabric to the stabilizer using a normal stitch length. Repeat this process with each block.
Hang the cut, stabilized, & marked blocks from a pant hanger and
bring to class. Border, binding, & batting are not needed in class.
In class we will embroider the blocks in this order:
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Tips for Successful Embroidery! Keep these pages accessible, you will need to refer to these “Tips” throughout your embroidery!!
Follow Claudia’s two step “Perfect Placement Technique” for accurately multi-hooping large designs!
Step #1: Marking the design’s first stitch location on the grid:
Attach the hoop and grid to the module with no fabric.
Open the design to be embroidered.
Advance to the embroidery sewing screen. Embroidery Machines open a design in an editing screen. Touch the icon that moves you to the embroidery sewing screen. Advanc-ing to the embroidery sewing screen takes you to the first stitch of the design, where you are ready to embroider!
Brother, Babylock, Janome, and Singer machines have an automatic center stitch pro-grammed into the machine. You must advance past this “programmed center stitch” to move to the first stitch of my designs. These machines will have an additional icon (usually a +/- key) you will need to touch to move you to first stitch of my design. Bernina machines with a Basting Box option must make sure the built in basting box option is turned off before they advance to the embroidery sewing screen.
By hand, lower your needle to touch the grid. Place an arrow shaped post-it-note on the grid so the tip of the arrow touches the tip of the needle. (See picture) This marks the first stitch location of my design on the grid (not the center of the design, not the center of the hoop, but the first stitch of the opened design).
Raise the needle; remove the hoop and the marked grid from the module.
Step #2: Hooping the Fabric
Place the inner hoop with the grid on the (stabilized and marked) background fabric. The arrow shaped post-it-note on the grid should be pointing to either the Needle Alignment or to the Placement Line location on the background fabric. The location is noted in the Embroidery Instructions and will be different for each hooping (it will almost never be the cen-ter of the hoop).
Hoop the (stabilized and marked) fabric with the lines on the grid parallel and perpendicular to the drawn lines on the fab-ric. The drawn lines need not lie exactly under the lines of the grid, but must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. This keeps the larger piece of fabric square and straight as you embroider.
Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module.
It may be necessary to re-position the needle exactly over the mark indicated in the instructions. Use your Move Motif Icon to tweak the needle perfectly over the mark.
Needle Alignment is to place the needle over a specific mark like the drawn crosshair on the fabric
Placement Line is to sew (without thread) over previously sewn stitches to ensure correct placement.
To watch a demo of the “Perfect Placement Technique” from your computer go to: www.claudiascreationsaz.com Select the “Workshops” tab and choose Instructional Videos / Perfect Placement.
Additional Tips and Helps! Tip #1: Built in Basting Box!
Many embroidery machines have a built-in basting box option. When this option is enabled it may add a color stop to the stitching order of the design. This option should be disabled before opening a design. If the basting box op-tion is on or enabled when you advance to the embroidery sewing screen, you would be marking the grid with the first stitch position for the basting box and not the first stitch of the design! Be sure to disable the basting box option before opening a design. Mark the first stitch of the design with the post-it note arrow.
Hoop your fabric. Now turn on or enable the basting box option and sew the basting box out. After sewing out the built-in basting box, turn it off, if your machine doesn’t turn it off automatically. BERNINA’s have two basting box options; turn off both before marking the grid. Leaving it on will add a thread color
stop and the numbering of the colors in the instructions will be off by one: The added color for the basting box. Be sure this option if off before marking the Needle Alignment.
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Tip #2: Hooping Tips
I place sections of permanent double sided tape (not repositionable) on the wrong side of the inner hoop. Then I flip the inner hoop right side up and place the inner hoop, with the grid inside of it, on the fabric. The doubled sided tape holds the inner hoop to the fabric. This makes it easier to pick up the inner hoop and fabric and place it in the outer hoop with ease. (Always loosen the outer hoop screws as much as possible). Remove the tear away stabilizer from the last hooping to reduce the stabilizer “bulk”. Roll the excess fabric in a tube shape and use clips to hold the excess fabric out of the way. This will prevent the fabric from accidently catching under the hoop.
Tip #3: Unusual Embroidery Instructions: Needle Alignment: This is placed first in the stitching order to align the needle exactly where it goes. It is strictly for needle placement and not to be sewn out (unless indicated). If it is accidently sewn out it will look-like a crosshair. Pick it out! Placement Line: This is a line that is to be sewn out without thread over an existing line to ensure correct place-ment. It is an alignment tool for connecting one hooping to another. The blank line after the thread color: Thread Purple #__________ (Write your thread Color # on the line) It will help you remember what color you used when you return to embroidering.
Tip #4: Ironing/Pressing Place the embroidered background fabric wrong side up, over a cotton towel to iron. Ironing on the right side of embroidery will crush the embroidery stitches! Padding the stitches with a folded cotton towel wont’ crush them. I usually spay with starch and then press the fabric.
Tip #5: Trimming the Blocks For best accuracy, use a square ruler to trim all the blocks. Place the square ruler on the block lining up two sides, then trim. Trimming with a 6” x 24” ruler is not as accurate and leads to slips and miss-cuts. If you have difficulty keeping a ruler from moving when you cut, place double sided tape on the side that goes against the fabric! Also, using quilting gloves helps to hold it in place!
Fabric Preparation
Removing Dye: Usually I do not wash my fabrics before embroidering or piecing them into a quilt. However, if I am using reds or greens I may want to test a piece to see if it is color fast. If it is not, you may want to treat the fabric with a product that will remove the excess dye. Quilt products such as Retayne and Synthrapol always work great.
Woven Interfacing: First steam iron and starch the fabric. Then place the woven interfacing (Fusible Woven by OESD or Shape Flex
101 by Pellon) adhesive side down, on the wrong side of the fabric. Spray with water to activate the adhesive. Use your hands to smooth out the moistened Interfacing over the fabric before using the steam iron. Set the steam iron on the center area and hold the iron long enough to dry & seal the two layers together, but not so long that it burns! Pick up the iron and place it close to the first spot. Repeat until all the interfacing is sealed to the fabric. This will “pre-shrink” both fabric and interfacing. The Interfacing will shrink, that is expected. All the edges of the Interfacing should be sealed to the fabric. If “air bubbles” are showing on the fabric, you need to spray with water and press again.
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Sandcastle Block
Embroidery Instructions for 8x12 Hoops
(Before beginning embroidery please check my website for updates)
All designs use Claudia’s Perfect Placement Technique to mark the grid with an arrow before hooping. To watch a
demo of this method go to: www.claudiascreationsaz.com select the Workshop tab and click Instructional Videos.
Read all of Tips for Successful Embroidery before beginning especially Steps #1 & #2.
Summer Lovin’ Select the folder with the format your machine reads. Select 8x12 Hoops folder Select #1 Sandcastle folder Background Fabric is cut 24”x24” (wxh) See Cutting and Fabric Preparation Instructions.
Hooping #1 Chair & Pail Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open #1 Chair & Pail
Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1st stitch of the design.
Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of “Tips for Successful Embroidery”. Pay special attention
to the information about Brother, Babylock, & Janome machines.)
To hoop this design the Top of the Fabric is positioned/rotated to the right of the hoop.
(See picture)
Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the center crosshair on the fabric.
See Example #1. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid.
Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module.
Slide or “float” a piece of tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop.
Color #1 Needle Alignment. The needle is over the center crosshair on the
fabric. See green start arrow in Example #1. Reposition, if needed
to be over the center crosshair on the fabric.
Do not sew Color #1. (Needle alignment only)
Advance to Color #2.
Thread Color Hyacinth Pink (lightest pink) #__________ (write your thread color here) Color #2 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color Teaberry Pink (second lightest pink) # __________ Color #3 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color Dusty Mauve (third lightest pink) #__________ Color #4 Embroider the sand.
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Thread Color Danish Teal Blue (second lightest blue) # __________
Color #3 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color Garden Rose #__________ Color #4 Embroider the umbrella.
Thread Color Erin (bright) Green # __________
Color #5 Embroider the inside of the umbrella.
Thread Color Blue Ribbon (darkest blue) #__________ Color #6 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color Black # __________
Color #7 Embroider the outlining.
Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop.
Gently remove the tear away stabilizer from the back.
Hooping #3 Umbrella Post & Ocean Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open #3 Umbrella Post & Ocean Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1
st stitch of the design.
Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the
grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of “Tips for Successful Embroidery”. Pay special attention to the information
about Brother, Babylock, & Janome machines.)
To hoop this design the Top of the Fabric is positioned/rotated
to the right of the hoop. (See picture)
Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the green start arrow at the bottom area of the
umbrella. See green start arrow in Example #3. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the
lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or “float” a piece of tear away
stabilizer under the hoop.
Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the tip of
the green arrow. See green start arrow in Example #3.
Sew Color #1 without thread. It sews over the outline of
the umbrella and ocean from the start to the end arrow
(path shown in red.) Reposition, if needed to follow the
outline.
Re-thread. Advance to Color #2.
Thread Color White #__________ Color #2 Embroider the ocean foam.
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Surfboard Block
Embroidery Instructions for 8x12 Hoops
Select #3 Surfboard folder Background Fabric is cut 12”x24” (wxh) See Cutting and Fabric Preparation Instructions. Draw an additional horizontal line 6” below the center horizontal line.
Hooping #1 Surfboards Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open #1 Surfboards
Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1st stitch of the design.
Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow
touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of “Tips for Successful Embroidery”.
Pay special attention to the information about Brother, Babylock, & Janome machines.)
To hoop this design the Top of the Fabric
is positioned at the top of the hoop.
Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the center crosshair on the fabric.
See Example #1. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid.
Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module.
Slide or “float” a piece of tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop.
Color #1 Needle Alignment. The needle is over the center crosshair on the fabric. See green start arrow in
Example #1. Reposition, if needed to be over the center crosshair on the fabric.
Do not sew Color #1. (Needle alignment only)
Advance to Color #2.
Thread Color Dusty Mauve Pink (third lightest pink) #__________ Color #2 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color Mauve (darkest pink) # __________
Color #3 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color River Mist Blue (lightest blue) # __________
Color #4 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color White #__________ Color #5 Embroider the ocean foam.
Thread Color Danish Blue (second lightest blue) # __________
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Hooping #3 Seagull Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open #3 Seagull Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1
st stitch of the design.
Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the
grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of “Tips for Successful Embroidery”. Pay special attention to the infor-
mation about Brother, Babylock, & Janome machines.)
To hoop this design the Top of the Fabric is positioned/rotated
to the right of the hoop.
Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the top right end of the white ocean foam.
See green start arrow in Example #3. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on
the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or “float” a piece of tear away stabi-
lizer under the hoop.
Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the top right end of the white ocean foam. See green start
arrow in Example #3. Sew Color #1 without thread. It sews over the outline of the ocean from the start
to the end arrow (path shown in red.) Reposition, if needed to follow the outline.
Re-thread. Advance to Color #2.
Thread Color Danish Teal (second lightest blue) #__________ Color #2 Embroider the ocean.
Thread 3olor Pacific Blue (third lightest blue) # __________
Color #3 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color Caribbean Blue (fourth lightest blue) #__________ Color #4 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color Blue Ribbon (darkest blue) # __________
Color #5 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color White #__________ Color #6 Embroider the seagull. On some machines the color white
may not look white on the embroidery screen because the
background of the screen is white so they make the color
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Dolphin Block
Embroidery Instructions for 8x12 Hoops
Select #4 Dolphin folder Background Fabric is cut 24”x12” (wxh) See Cutting and Fabric Preparation Instructions.
Hooping #1 Center Dolphins Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open #1 Center Dolphins Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1
st stitch of the design.
Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow
touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of “Tips for Successful Embroidery”.
Pay special attention to the information about Brother, Babylock, &Janome machines.)
To hoop this design the Top of the Fabric is
Positioned/rotated to the right of the hoop.
(See picture)
Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid
pointing to the center crosshair on the fabric.
See Example #1. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel
and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the
hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or “float” a piece of
tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop.
Color #1 Needle Alignment. The needle is over the center crosshair on the fabric.
See green start arrow in Example #1.
Do not sew Color #1. (Needle alignment only)
Advance to Color #2. Thread Color Smoke Gray #__________ Color #2 Embroider the dolphin
Thread Color River Mist Blue (lightest blue) # __________
Color #3 Embroider the ocean. Thread Color Danish Teal (second lightest blue) #__________ Color #4 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color Pacific Blue (third lightest blue) # __________
Color #5 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color Caribbean Blue (fourth lightest blue) #__________ Color #6 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color Blue Ribbon (darkest blue) # __________
Color #7 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color Aurifil Black # __________ Color #8 Embroider the outlining.
Remove the hoop from the module and
the fabric from the hoop.
Gently remove the tear away stabilizer from the back.
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Sunglasses Block
Embroidery Instructions for 8x12 Hoops
Select #6 Sunglasses folder Background Fabric is cut 12”x12” (wxh) See Cutting and Fabric Preparation Instructions.
Hooping #1 Sunglasses & Hat Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open #1 Sunglasses & Hat
Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1st stitch of the design.
Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the
tip of the arrow touching the needle.
To hoop this design the Top of the Fabric
is positioned/rotated to the right of the hoop. (See picture)
Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the center crosshair on the fabric.
See Example #1. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid.
Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or “float” a piece of tear away stabilizer un-
der the attached hoop.
Color #1 Needle Alignment. The needle is over the center crosshair on the fabric. See green start arrow in
Example #1. Do not sew Color #1. (Needle alignment only) Advance to Color #2. Thread Color Hyacinth Pink (lightest pink) #__________ Color #2 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color Teaberry (second lightest pink) #__________ Color #3 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color Dusty Mauve (third lightest pink) #__________ Color #4 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color Mauve (darkest pink) # __________
Color #5 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color Garden Rose #__________ Color #6 Embroider the sunglasses.
Thread Color Tangerine # __________
Color #7 Embroider the tops of the flip flops.
Thread Color Erin (bright) Green #_________ Color #8 Embroider the bottom of the flip flops.
Thread Color Danish Teal (second lightest blue) # __________
Color #9 Embroider the hat.
Thread Color Sunshine Yellow # __________
Color #10 Embroider the band on the hat.
Thread Color Aurifil Black # __________
Color #11 Embroider the outlining.
Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop.
Gently remove the tear away stabilizer from the back.
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Beach Ball Block
Embroidery Instructions for 8x12 Hoops
Select #5 Beach Ball folder Background Fabric is cut 12”x12” (wxh) See Cutting and Fabric Preparation Instructions.
Hooping #1 Beach Ball Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open #1 Beach Ball Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1
st stitch of the design.
Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip
of the arrow touching the needle.
To hoop this design the Top of the Fabric is positioned/rotated
to the right of the hoop. (See picture)
Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the
center crosshair on the fabric. See Example #1. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the
lines on the grid. Slide or “float” a piece of tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop.
Color #1 Needle Alignment. The needle is over the center crosshair on the fabric. See green start arrow in
Example #1. Do not sew Color #1. (Needle alignment only) Advance to Color #2.
Thread Color Hyacinth Pink (lightest pink) #__________ Color #2 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color Teaberry (second lightest pink) #__________ Color #3 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color Dusty Mauve (third lightest pink) #__________ Color #4 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color Mauve (darkest pink) # __________
Color #5 Embroider the sand.
Thread Color Garden Rose #__________ Color #6 Embroider one section of the beach ball.
Thread Color Tangerine # __________
Color #7 Embroider one section of the beach ball.
Thread Color Grape #__________ Color #8 Embroider the one section of the beach ball.
Thread Color Sunshine Yellow # __________
Color #9 Embroider one section of the beach ball.
Thread Color Erin (bright) Green #_________ Color #10 Embroider one section of the beach ball.
Thread Color Pacific Blue (third lightest blue) # __________
Color #11 Embroider one section of the beach ball.
Thread Color Smoke Gray # __________
Color #12 Embroider the top circle of the beach ball.
Thread Color Aurifil Black # __________
Color #13 Embroider the outlining.
Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop.
Gently remove the tear away stabilizer from the back.
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Lighthouse Block
Embroidery Instructions for 8x12 Hoops
Select #9 Lighthouse folder Background Fabric is cut 12”x12” (wxh) See Cutting and Fabric Preparation Instructions.
Hooping #1 Lighthouse Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open #1 Lighthouse
Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1st stitch of the design.
Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the
arrow touching the needle.
To hoop this design the Top of the Fabric is positioned/rotated
to the right of the hoop.
Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the center crosshair on the fabric.
See Example #1. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Remove
the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or “float” a piece of tear away stabilizer under the at-
tached hoop.
Color #1 Needle Alignment. The needle is over the center crosshair on the fabric. See green start arrow in
Example #1. Reposition, if needed to be over the center crosshair on the fabric. Do not sew Color #1.
(Needle alignment only) Advance to Color #2.
Thread Color Danish Teal (second lightest blue) #__________ Color #2 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color Pacific Blue (third lightest blue) #__________ Color #3 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color Caribbean Blue (second darkest blue) # __________
Color #4 Embroider the ocean.
Thread Color Blue Ribbon (darkest blue) #__________ Color #5 Embroider the ocean. Thread Color Erin (bright) Green #_________ Color #6 Embroider the lighthouse.
Thread Color Aurifil Black # __________
Color #7 Embroider the outlining.
Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop. Gently remove the tear away stabilizer from the back.
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Trimming the Embroidered Blocks:
Center Row: Sandcastle Block
Please read all the cutting instructions before you cut! I mean it!! READ first!
Trim and Square the Embroidered Blocks: All seams are sewn with a scant quarter inch. (Scant quarter: width of the needle smaller than a perfect quarter inch) Remove all markings from the front of the blocks and the tear away stabilizer from the back of each block. Each block should be pressed (on the backside to protect the embroidery) before trimming. Draw the “cut lines” with a removable pen before trimming to prevent mistakes!!! A Frixion pen is good for this. Use a large square ruler to square and trim each block.
Sandcastle Block:
The cut measurement is 18 ½” x 18½” (width x height) (Do not cut the block yet!)
Draw the top width of the block first:
Draw a horizontal line 5 ½” above the ocean line. See red arrow in picture. The lines on your square ruler must be parallel to the horizontal ocean line before you draw the cut line. This will keep you square before you cut! Draw the top cut line.
Do not cut!!
The stitched area outside of the drawn square may be less than what is shown in this picture. Don’t worry if you have less area than I show in this picture. You will have enough to make an 18 ½” square.
Measure down 18 ½” from the top cut line.
Draw the bottom horizontal line. The lines on the square ruler must be parallel to the horizontal ocean line on the fabric and the drawn
top cut line.
Draw two side vertical lines 18 ½” apart (9 ¼” on either side of center). Make sure the drawn lines are perpendicular to the horizontal lines.
The lines will form an 18 ½” square.
Cut the block on the drawn lines. You will be cutting into the stitches. Block measures 18 ½” square. Border the block following the instructions for Quarter Inch Borders on page 39. After sewing on the quarter inch borders the block still measures 18 ½” x 18 ½” square. The Quarter Inch Borders will keep the cut stitches from fraying.
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Trimming the Embroidered Blocks: Center Row Blocks
Seagull Block:
The cut measurement is 8 ½” x 18½” (width x height) Do not cut the block yet!
Draw the top width of the block first:
Draw a horizontal line 5 ½” above the ocean line. See red arrow in picture.
Make sure the lines on your square ruler are Parallel to the horizontal ocean line before you draw the cut line. This will keep you square before you cut!
Draw the top cut line. Do not cut!!
The area outside of the drawn square may be less than what is shown in this picture. Don’t worry if you have less stitched area
outside of the drawn lines than shown here.
Measure down 18 ½” from the top cut line.
Draw the bottom horizontal line. Make sure the lines on the square ruler are parallel to the horizontal ocean line on the fabric and the drawn top cut line.
Draw two side vertical lines 8 ½” apart (4 ¼” on either side of center).
Make sure the drawn lines are perpendicular to the horizontal lines. Draw the vertical lines.
The drawn lines will form a 8 ½” x 18 ½” rectangle (width x height)
Cut the blocks on the drawn lines. You will be cutting into the stitches. Blocks measures 8 ½” x 18 ½” Border the blocks following the instructions for Quarter Inch Borders on page 39. After sewing on the quarter inch borders the blocks will still measure 8 ½” x 18 ½” (wxh)
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Trimming the Embroidered Blocks: Top Row Blocks
Sailboat & Lighthouse Blocks: The cut measurement is 8 ½” x 8 ½” (width x height) Do not cut the block yet!
Draw the top width of the block first:
Draw a horizontal line 4 ½” above the ocean line. See red arrow in picture.
Make sure the lines on your square ruler are parallel to the horizontal ocean line before you draw the cut line. This will keep you square before you cut! Draw the top cut line. Do not cut the block yet!
Measure down 8 ½” from the top drawn cut line. Draw the bottom horizontal line. Make sure the lines on the square ruler are parallel to the horizontal ocean line on the fabric; drawn top cut line.
Draw two side vertical lines 8 ½” apart (4 ¼” on either side of center). Make sure the drawn lines are perpendicular to the horizontal lines. Draw the vertical lines. The drawn lines will form a 8 ½” x 8 ½” square.
The stitched area outside of the drawn square may be less than what is shown in this picture. Don’t worry if you have less stitched area out-side of the drawn square then shown in this picture.
Cut the block on the drawn lines. You will be cutting into the stitches. Block measures 8 ½” x 8 ½” Dolphin Block: The cut measurement is 18 ½” x 8 ½” (w x h) Do not cut the block yet!
Draw the top width of the block first:
Draw a horizontal line 4 ½” above the ocean line. See red arrow in picture. Make sure the lines on your square ruler are parallel to the horizontal ocean line before you draw the cut line. Draw the top cut line. Do not cut!!
Measure down 8 ½” from the top drawn cut line. Draw the bottom horizontal line. Make sure the lines on the square ruler are parallel to the horizontal ocean line on the fabric and the drawn top cut line.
Draw two side vertical lines 18 ½” apart (9 ¼” on either side of center). Make sure the drawn lines are perpendicular to the horizontal lines. Draw the vertical lines.
The drawn lines will form a 18 ½” x 8 ½” rectangle (width x height)
Cut the block on the drawn lines. You will be cutting into the stitches. Block measures 18 ½” x 8 ½”. Border all three blocks following the instructions for Quarter Inch Borders on page 39. The block sizes will not increase after adding the borders.
All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These
designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.
www.claudiascreationsaz.com
Trimming the Embroidered Blocks: Bottom Row Blocks
Beach Ball & Sunglasses Blocks: The cut measurement is 8 ½” x 8 ½” (width x height) Read all of this page before you cut the blocks.
Draw the top width of the block first:
Draw a horizontal line 2” above the highest piece of embroidery. See red arrows in pictures.
Square the ruler with the bottom of the sand before you draw the cut line. This will keep you aligned horizontally before you draw! Draw the top cut line 2” above the high-est embroidered piece.
Do not cut the block yet!
Measure down 8 ½” from the top drawn cut line. Draw the bottom horizontal line. The lines on the square ruler must be parallel to the drawn top cut line.
Draw two side vertical lines 8 ½” apart (4 ¼” on either side of center). Measure the width of the embroidery to find the center. The vertical lines must be perpendicular to the horizontal lines to form a perfect square. The drawn lines will form a 8 ½” x 8 ½” square.
Cut the block on the drawn lines. You will be cutting into the stitches. Block measures 8 ½” x 8 ½” Bicycle Block: The cut measurement is 18 ½” x 8 ½” (width x height)
Draw the top width of the block first:
Draw a horizontal line 2” above the highest piece of embroidery. See red arrow in picture. (bicycle handle) The lines on your square ruler are parallel to the bottom edge of the sand. Draw the top cut line. Do not cut!!
Measure down 8 ½” from the top drawn cut line. Draw the bottom horizontal line. The lines on the square ruler must be parallel to the horizontal drawn top cut line.
Draw two side vertical lines 18 ½” apart (9 ¼” on either side of cen-ter). Measure the width of the embroidery to find the center.
The vertical lines must be perpendicular to the horizontal lines. The drawn lines will form a 18 ½” x 8 ½” rectangle (width x height)
Cut the block on the drawn lines. You will be cutting into the stitches. Block measures 18 ½” x 8 ½”.
Border all three blocks following the instructions for Quarter Inch Borders on page 39. The block sizes will not increase after adding the borders.