SONGKET CHARACTER

• SONGKET CHARACTER• Songket is a hand-woven

piece of brocaded (textured) fabric consisting of either cotton, polyester or silk as the base material with gold or silver threads making up its elaborate designs as the pattern decorating the songket in parts or in full.

• One special character of songket is that the design is made using tekat effect, where the extra thread float over a fixed number of ends.

• Tekat-3 will see the extra weft floats over 3 ends and under one; tekat-5 will see it floats over 5 ends and under one.

• Difference between songket and brocade

BROCADE SONGKET

• CREATING SONGKET LIFT PLAN • 1st THE MOTIF• DECIDE HOW MANY NUMBER OF

HEALD FRAMES ARE REQUIRED.• DESIGN MIRROR MOTIF = 5

SQUARES and FOR TEKAD 3 REQUIRES 4 HEALD FRAMES EACH, HENCE 5 x 4 =20 FRAMES (FORGET ABOUT MINIMISING THE HEALD FRAMES FOR THE TIME BEING)

• IF NEEDED, ADD ANOTHER 2 FOR PLAIN WEAVE TO SEPARATE THE MOTIF

• FOR EACH SQUARE, THE STRUCTURE IS AS FOLLOWS:

x x

x x

x x

x x

=

• 1st CREATE MOTIF – LIFT PLAN AND THREADING/DRAW-IN [DECIDE THE NUMBER OF SHAFTS AND THREADING TECHNIQUE]

• INSERT PLAIN WEAVE TO GROUND THREAD

• COLOUR THE WEFT YARNS (GOLD/MOTIF AND GROUND)

• REVERSE LIFT PLAN TO SEE THE WEAVE