Skirt - vtechworks.lib.vt.edu · of the skirt. 3. Draw up gathers to fit; distribute evenly and pin. Baste and stitch a 5/8" seamline. Stitch on the skirt side to help keep gathers

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'l::c Make A Gathered Skirt

CIRCULAR 580

OCTOBER 1964

AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE

VIRGINIA POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE

BLACKSBURG, VIRGINIA

• Make a Gathered Skirt

• Prepared by MarrJaret Groseclose, Err:tension ClothinrJ Specialist

Many girls like gathered skirts and they are easy to make. Plump girls look best in gored skirts. When you make a gathered skirt, you learn to make seams, put in a placket, fit a waistband, hem a skirt, and put on a fastener. You study what to look for in choosing a fabric and how to prepare it for cutting a garment. This will help you in making other garments.

Supplies You Will Need

Include a sewing box, thread to match background of fabric, hooks and straight eyes, i:maps, and fabric. The amount of fabric needed will be twice the length of your skirt, including 3" for hem plus 5" for waistband.

Measure and Cut 1. Straighten the fabric. 2. If you are using 2 lengths for the skirt,

cut a 5-1/8" strip across the fabric for the band. Measure the amount you allowed for the 2 skirt lengths and tear or cut apart.

3. Press the fabric for the band and skirt.

Stitch the Seams Pin selvage edges together and keep edges

even. Stitch 5/ 8" seam from the bottom of the skirt to the top, leaving a 6" opening on one side for the placket; backstitch to lock threads. Snip selvage every 3" or 4" to prevent puckering when skirt is washed.

Top of Skirt

Placket 6"

Selvages

Bottom of Skirt Figure l

Make a Placket 1. Work with the side seam where the

opening was left for the placket. 2. Fold back the front placket extension

to the seam line. Press and pin. 3. Machine stitch the length of the placket

opening 5/ 8" from the folded edge. Stitch diagonally to the folded edge (or seam line), catching the back extension.

4. Clip the back seam allowance almost to the stitching line, approximately 1/2" be-low the end of the placket.

5. Press the side seams open. 6. Two snap fasteners may be used to

keep the placket closed.

Figure 2

Back Frout

Gather Top of Skirt

1. Lengthen the machine stitch to 8 to 10 stitches per inch to do machine basting for gathering.

2. Use your seam guide to keep your stitching even. Make a row of machine hast-ings 1/2" from the top edge of skirt; make a second row of stitching 3/4" from the top. If you use a heavy-duty or nylon thread on the bobbin when you do this stitching, you are less likely to break the thread as you adjust the gathers. Divide the skirt in half and

mark. Stitch the front half, then stitch the back half, rather than sew all the way around without stopping. The gathers will be easier to adjust.

Make the Band 1. Use the 5"-wide strip you cut or tore

from one length of the skirt fabric and follow these steps to make your skirt band.

2. To make any size band, use thes measurements.

Length--Your waist measurement plus 3".

Width--Three times the width of fin-ished band plus 5/8". (Example--for 1-1/2" finished band, cut fabric 5-1/8" wide.)

3. For a band 1-1/2" wide, fold 1-1/2" along the lengthwise edge of fabric to the wrong side. Press along the fold. Mark and quilt. This makes the side of the band you will WE.:ar next to you (Fig. 4).

Figure 4

4. Fold 5/ 8'' of opposite lengthwise edge of fabric to the wrong side. Press along fold. This crease will mark a stitching line (Fig. 5).

5/8"

l~"

Sew Band to Skirt

Fold

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Fold Figure 5

Right Side

1. Divide your skirt and band into 4 equal parts to help you make gathers even. Mark with pins. Be sure to allow for the underlap and 5/8" seams at both ends of the skirt band (Fig. 6).

Seam Allowance

and Under Lap Fi.gure 6

2. Pin the raw edge of the skirt band to the skirt with right sides together, matching pins (Fig. 7). The band will extend 5/8" be-yond placket edge on the left front of the skirt and 2-3/8'' beyond the placket on the left side of the skirt.

3. Draw up gathers to fit; distribute evenly and pin. Baste and stitch a 5/8" seamline. Stitch on the skirt side to help keep gathers even. Here is where you use the crease line on the skirt band as a stitching guide.

4. Press the seam allowance toward skirt band.

5. Fold the skirt band back to the right side along its center line. Stitch 5/8" seams at both ends of the skirt band. Trim and grade the seams; trim the corners; turn the skirt band; shape and press the ends (Fig. 8).

Trim

Back Left

Figure 8

6. Pin folded edge of the skirt band over gathers. The skirt band will reach just be-low the stitching that holds the outside of the band to the skirt. Baste if necessary. Top-stitch the band close to the edge (Fig. 9). Re-move the machine basting which shows below the skirt band.

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Attach Fasteners

Wrong Side Skirt

Figure 9

1. Select 2 hooks and eyes, either size 3, 4, or 5.

2. Place on at the top of the band and one at the bottom.

3. Make several stitches around each ring. Also make several plain stitches near the top of the hook to hold it in place. Be sure you place the eye so your band will lap and so the placket is smooth and even.

Hem Your Skirt

1. Try on your skirt with the type shoes you will wear with it. Have someone measure the length at an even distance from thefloor. Mark it with a row of pins about every 3".

2. Make a fold in the skirt along the pin line. Baste the hem about 1/ 4'' from the fold line.

3. The hem should be the same width, approximately 3", around the skirt.

4. Make a fold 1/ 4'' wide on the cut edge of the hem. Press the fold and stitch it 1/ 8" from the edge.

5. To fasten the hem of your skirt, use a slip stitch, a vertical hemming stitch, a tailor's hem, or a blind stitch.

The Final Touch Press your skirt and check it.

ISSUED IN FURTHERANCE OF COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS, ACTS OF MAY BAND JUNE 30, 1914, IN COOPERATION WITH THE U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AG RIC UL TURE. W. H. DAUGHTREY, DIRECTOR, AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE, VIRGINIA POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE, BLACKSBURG, VIRGINIA.