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Indoor mold growth can, and usually does, produce toxins, irritants and allergens that have the potential to give mold workers (and occupants) headaches, skin rashes and respiratory problems.These same toxins, irritants and allergens are in the outside air –you breath them all the time. Mold toxins are found in many of the foods we eat, including fruit juices, corn products and many other foods – you eat them all the time.
For healthy individuals (non-mold sensitive individuals), mold toxins, mold allergens and irritants are NOT accumulated in the body like some poisons are. For healthy individuals, the body quickly eliminates mold toxins, allergens and irritants so they don’t build up.
The issue is dosage and a person’s sensitivity to such agents, which can vary dramatically. Mold sensitivity is a function of
how well someone clears the mold allergens and toxins from their body.
If you are mold sensitive, you should notbe doing mold remediation work.For those doing mold remediation work, the key is to limit exposure levels for you and the occupants. Keep in mind that when there are mold problems, very often there is already an elevated level of indoor mold. So occupants are already being exposed to mold.Taking elaborate precautions to keep small amounts of mold from being released into the environment during work in an already contaminated environment is a poor use of resources.
Non-mold-sensitive people doing mold work can avoid health-related issues by following safe work procedures with minimal levels of protection for typical jobs.Effective guidelines for respiratory protection, and for reducing cross contamination during remediation projects, have been published by the EPA in their popular booklet shown at the right.
Following EPA guidelines for mold removal is what we recommend.The EPA categorizes mold removal work as small, medium and large.Most small and medium jobs can be done without specialized equipment, and by non-professionals.
Certainly such tasks can also be adequately performed by builders or by school or commercial building custodial staff with a little direction.The EPA procedures use no chemicals such as those professional mold remediators use … only household cleaners. It is an excellent reference.
More detailed information on proper/safe (chemical free) mold removal procedures can be found in our book featured on the right. The focus of Chemical-Free Mold & Mold Toxin Clean-up & Restoration is on procedures to limit respiratory exposure of workers and occupants as a result of mold remediation work.
But there are many other potential health hazards when doing mold remediation work other than from mold inhalation. Such hazards are the main focus of this course on Mold Remediation Safety.
This course is primarily intended for: Those performing or managing mold remediation work in schools or commercial buildings – either existing or new construction.As well as, professional mold remediation contractors, since the topics in this course are generally not covered well in mold remediation training.
Mold remediation contractors require NO MORE THAN 3 DAYS of formal training in order to become Board Certified.Therefore, builder staff or school or commercial facility staff should rest assured that they may be able to quickly get up to speed to adequately deal with typical mold problems, as well as, or perhaps even better than, many so-called professionals.Large-scale mold remediation jobs, or work in hospitals or health care facilities, or involving mold-sensitive individuals, should be performed by professionals.
After taking this course, you will be able to:Describe important safety procedures that go beyond the EPA guidelines, and beyond what is taught in most mold remediation training courses.Explain the best ways to avoid serious and dangerous consequences from:– Power Tool Handling– Heat Prostration– Biocide and Disinfectant Use– Lead and Asbestos– Tetanus– Sewage Pathogens
While working on a mold remediation job that involves dirty water, especially sewage water, the primary route of exposure of sewage pathogens is ingestion (rather than inhalation, as with mold) of contaminated materials.
– Sewage pathogens (disease causing agents) are not aerosolized to the extent of fungal (mold) spores
Tetanus from scratches or punctures is a major concern when working with sewage-contaminated materials.
Again, toxins in sewage (or mold for that matter) are NOT inactivated by killing the organism.Toxins are not inactivated by spraying with disinfectant products used by most professional mold remediators, such as Microban® or Sporicidin®.Do not believe any claims with regard to sewage treatment products that say: “Cleans, disinfects and deodorizes in one step.”
Sewage contamination should be cleaned by removalusing low-pressure flushing (20-40 psi) and extraction. This removes the organism as well as toxins associated with them.Do NOT blow air on sewage spills, as this can aerosolize the toxins.
Care should be taken when discarding recovered sewage and rinse water. They should be discharged back into the sanitary sewer system (unless local ordinances prohibit.) This should be done outside of the building being cleaned.After the sewage contamination has been cleaned by low pressure flushing, the now cleaned area should be sprayed with household disinfectant such as Lysol or bleach as an added precaution.
Do not spray with any chemicals that claim: “Continuous residual bacteriostatic activity up to 6 months”That is not what we want. We want the area clean and dry so the problems do not come back.We do not want the area soaked with chemicals that keep on killing to keep the problems from coming back.
Tetanus is a serious illness that can be easily avoided.Always have an up-to-date Tetanus inoculation.Wear appropriate gloves.For workers involved in sewage cleanup, we also recommend vaccinations:– Tetanus/diphtheria– Hepatitis A and B
Goal of remediation is zero pathogens.However, if there is odor, you will not have happy occupants.Odors can be caused by:– Smells released from wet building or contents; – Bacteria; – Fungi; – Urine
Many so-called deodorizers simply cover up the smell with scents. The scents can cause adverse reactions in some sensitive individuals.Ozone treatment can be used effectively to remove smells once the contamination is 100% cleaned. Ozone treatment for smells is dangerous, and should only be done by professionals.
Mold Growing Under the Skin Mold Growing Under the Skin
Mold growing under the skin is much more common than you may think.Once mold starts to grow under your skin, the ONLY cure is to cut out the infected areas. This might mean an entire arm.Protect yourself from cuts and scratches when doing sewage clean-up or mold removal work. Wear gloves.
Heat prostration and/or dehydration from wearing Tyvek suits is one of the biggest health problems for sewage clean-up and mold removal workers. OSHA has very strict rules about workers in hot areas using Tyvek suits.OSHA gives MANY citations in certain states, areas, or job sites if rules about overheating are not strictly followed.
Safely limit the use of Tyvek suits on mold remediation jobs by:– Pre-cleaning.– Source containment.– Moistening/fogging– HEPA vacuuming– Running the AC This model would not
look so happy if she were wearing that Tyvek suit in a hot attic.
Biocides should be used for limiting microbial growth at the onset of a Gray (dirty) or Black (sewage) water problem.Carefully choose appropriate biocide.Use only according to manufacturer’s directions.Use biocides only with proper training.Make sure you read the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) before use.
Note: Most Biocides that claim to be suitable for sewage are not.
Antimicrobial - retards or stops microbial growth. These may only work on a subset of bacteria, and not on mold or mold spores. Rarely 100% effective despite marketing claims.May be built into certain materials such as air filters, and in such case there is residual anti-microbial power. Mold
Biocide – means kills micro-organisms. But again, may only work on some bacteria, and not on mold or mold spores. Typically used when sewagecontamination is involved.
Sporicide – means kills sporesBut it usually does not actually kill mold spores. It kills bacteria and bacteria spores. Sporicides require a minimum dwell time of 15 to 30 minutes. That’s a good rule of thumb, but obviously the dwell time depends on concentration and type of agent.
Understanding Marketing HypeFeatures & Applications: XXXXX® Disinfectant Solution is FDA 510(k) cleared, EPA registered for hospital use, and compliant with OSHA Bloodborne Pathogens Standards (29 CFR 1910.1030). This product is registered for mold and mildew remediation/restoration for use in institutional, commercial and home environments. XXXXX® has been used in hospital, medical and dental environments since 1978 and provides 100% kill of disease- and odor-causing organisms.
Applications:• Mold/IAQ remediation • Misting and dust suppression • Water and flood damage restoration • Sewer backflow cleanup • Trauma & Crime scene cleanup • Air duct cleaning • Carpet cleaning, decontaminating and odor control • Disinfects hard, non-porous environmental surfaces • Clean, disinfect and deodorize equipment.
Features and Benefits:• EPA, FDA and OSHA compliant • EPA toxicity rating "low/very low" • Cleans, disinfects and deodorizes in one step • Continuous residual bacteriostatic activity up to 6 months* • Kills mold and mildew, including Stachybotrys chartarumc (black mold) • Provides 100% kill of disease and odor causing organisms. • It is fungicidal, bactericidal, virucidal, mildewcidal and tuburculocidal• Non-corrosive to surfaces including plastics, latex, vinyl, and glass• Non-abrasive • Alcohol free safe for equipment• Contains a pharmaceutical active ingredient system with no harsh
chemicals. • Registered in all 50 states (including California), Puerto Rico and
The previous slide is a real life advertisement for a well known disinfectant.We have taken it from the web site of one of the largest companies selling cleaning products.We will look at a number of these claims.This information is veryimportant. Please read through it, and understand the HYPE.
Listed Features and Benefits:Claim: – EPA toxicity rating “low/very low”
Our Response: – Toxicity to what? People or
bacteria or mold spores? If the claim is low toxicity to mold spores, that is true, because this product does not kill mold spores, nor does it kill all bacteria. HYPE
Use proper dilutionEnsure adequate contact timeBiocide use increases costBiocide use cannot replace material removal and/or cleaningMany biocides are inactivated by organic matter – pre-clean firstToxic at some concentrations to humansMost do not kill mold, and few kill mold spores
Only household disinfectants are recommended for use in
Biocides may leave a residue, but the residues most likely will notprevent the return of micro-organisms, and some may leave an odor.Residue that “keeps on killing” is not what we want. The chemical residue can sometimes have a harmful affect on occupants.
Biocides not for use on dirty fiberglass AC ducting.
Biocides are usually tested and specified for non-porous (hard) surface items.Should not be used on porous surfaces unless permitted by the label.Why? Because the biocide soaks up into the porous material and leaves a heavy residue that keeps on killing and may irritate occupants.When used on a hard surface only a very small amount of residue is left because the chemical is not soaked up into the hard surface material.
Get written permission prior to use.Check to make sure occupants do not have chemical sensitivities.Explain what you plan to use.Explain where and how it will be used.Never spray biocides into AC ducts.
Use only with EPA approval for the intended use. For instance …– There are many EPA approved biocides, but few are
approved for use in AC ducts.Choose biocide only for the applicable contamination and surface.If you are to use biocide on a porous surface or semi-porous surface like wood, again … check the label, as most biocides are labeled only for hard surface use.
At our firm, we ONLY use disinfectants that are approved by the EPA for household use, and can be found at the grocery store or Walmart.We use them at the recommended concen-trations, and on surfaces recommended on the labels.It is hard to screw up if you follow these rules.
Glutaraldehyde based biocides are suitable for treating sewage.Typically used in a 1% solution when used in hospital settings to sterilize medical equipment. Not for con-sumer use.Trade names include:– Cidex®, Sonacide®, Sporicidin®,
The following health effects have been reported in hospital workers exposed to glutaraldehyde:– Throat and lung irritation – Asthma, asthma-like symptoms, and breathing
difficulty – Nose irritation, sneezing, and wheezing – Nosebleed, Hives, Headaches, Nausea– Burning eyes and conjunctivitis – Rash—contact and/or allergic dermatitis – Staining of the hands (brownish or tan)
Many side effects to occupants occur when this biocide is not completely rinsed from the premises.Side effects occur when this biocide is used by inexperienced workers.In our opinion, glutaraldehyde should not be used except by experienced professionals.
Diluted bleach has limited cleaning ability, but is an excellent disinfectant on pre-cleaned surfaces.Diluted bleach plus detergent makes a safe and effective cleaner and disinfectant for mold removal.Diluted bleach or dilute bleach plus detergent is recommended by the CDC (Center for Disease Control) for mold cleanup.Diluted bleach without detergent is not a good cleaner, and is inactivated by organic matter.Much cheaper than other biocides. However, its use is not always appropriate due to its harsh nature (discoloration of many fabrics and materials).
Has a strong smell, and should only be used when the area is well ventilated.When used in homes … include a notice in all proposals that “we use bleach,” and “by signing the proposal you accept that we will be using bleach.”When wood or other material is bleached, it generally will improve the appearance. Makes great photographic documentation of a job well done.
BiocidesBleach
Bleaching wood to improve its appearance may seem trivial but when you restore the color of the
wood to like-new appearance, occupants will have a great deal of confidence in a job well done.
When the surface has been cleaned.When the water source or leak is fixed.The mold and bacteria will not come back.That should be the focus. Clean and keep dry.Do not spray disinfectants onto dirty surfaces (remember they claim to clean, disinfect and deodorize in one step). – Mold growth and bacterial growth will reappear.
Do not attempt to disinfect areas that continue to get wet.– Mold growth and bacterial growth will reappear.
Keeping the Mold From ReturningKeeping the Mold From Returning
Pool chlorine is 10% bleach Clorox (household) bleach is 5-6% bleach.Tilex is typically 50% bleach and 50% water. Tilex is considered a strong bleach product, but suitable for household use according to the EPA. When a mold consultant says a 10% bleach solution, they do not mean pool chlorine. They mean household bleach diluted 9 parts water to 1 part bleach.
Our firm uses strong bleach for most mold work. Tilex is a household disinfectant that is pre-mixed 50% bleach and 50% water. You can make the equivalent product by mixing 1 part water to 1 part bleach.For those that want to use strong bleach, but do not want to mix bleach and water to dilute 50%, Tilex is a good choice.
According to the Tilex manufacturer’s web site: “Cleaning must remove and capture the mold contamination.
Remember, dead spores and mold particles still cause health problems if they are left in place. Soap and detergents can remove mold stains but do not actually kill mold, and these mold spores that are left behind can quickly re-grow and spread throughout the home.”
We use strong bleach or equivalent whenever possible for mold remediation.Strong bleach kills mold, mold spores, bacteria, viruses and the toxins and allergens they produce. No other disinfectants are as effective. No other disinfectants are such low cost.No other disinfectants are as well accepted by occupants.
No doubt you cannot use bleach on all surfaces such as fabrics.However when fabrics have mold growing on them, they almost always have to be discarded.When fabrics have settled spores on them, they can be vacuumed and/or steam cleaned. They do not need to be disinfected.
A common recommendation is to clean wood with a solution of bleach and/or soap and water, as found in the Wood Handbook of the U.S. Forest Products Laboratory. To remove mold and mildew from wood, the Handbook recommends using a bristle brush or sponge to scrub the surface with a commercial cleaner formulated for mildew removal, or using a dilute solution of household bleach with detergent: – 1 part household detergent– 10 parts (5%) sodium hypochlorite
(household bleach)– 30 parts warm water http://www.southernpine.com/mold2.shtml
We use a garden sprayer to spray the bleach onto the surface.With the sprayer, we can spray mold in opened wall cavities from a short distance.We keep mold spores and smells from escaping into the building by using what is called source level containment, whereby a negative air duct is placed at the location to be sprayed, creating a strong air flow to the outside.
– Eliminates mold spores released when the spray hits the mold.
– Keeps bleach fumes from accumulating in structure, which can make workers sick.
Air flow/neg pressure directed outside, with input right at work area.We call this source level containment.Axial fan (right) vents mold spores, bleach smells and dust outside. A fan in the window directed outside will also work (but not as well.)For more information on proper containment procedures, refer to a detailed reference or course on mold remediation.
For more information on proper remediation techniques see our book:Environmentally Friendly Mold Remediation Techniques That Significantly Reduce Childhood Asthma, available on Amazon.com (only $15).
While the CDC and the Wood Handbook recommend dilute bleach plus detergent for cleaning, we don’t mix bleach with detergent.Why? Because we paint the cleaned surfaces inside wall cavities with mold inhibiting paint, and the detergent interferes with the paint sticking.We prefer to use strong bleach and a brush to remove mold. Adequate safety precautions must be used when applying strong bleach.When surfaces are painted after being bleached, they do not smell from bleach. Painting eliminates one of the biggest objections regarding bleach use … bleach odor.
KILZ 2 Latex primer or KILZ Premium primer for interior surfaces, inhibits mold regrowth. Regular KILZ does not contain a mold inhibitor. Zinsser mold- and mildew-proof interior paint with 5 year warranty.Both are available at Home Depot and Walmart.
Both Kilz and Zinsser have high odor.We use a mold inhibiting sealer called DP2545 from Design Polymerics (www.designpoly.com).This product is not available locally and has to be special ordered from the manufacturer.It is designed for use inside air ducts and so is very low odor (low VOC) and should be used when there are chemically sensitive people involved. (There are other products that claim they are for use inside air ducts but they all not so low odor and we don’t use.)
When you paint surfaces with mold-inhibiting paint, or you use the new Mold Tough® brand drywall or equivalent product … Mold does not return.The repair is now better than new.Use mold-resistant drywall for rebuilding after a flood, and don’t spray chemicals that claim to keep on killing and prevent mold growth.Chemicals do not prevent mold growth, and can irritate occupants.
Bleach will spot marble and tarnish stainless steel. Care needs to be taken when bleaching near marble or stainless steel. Rinse these surfaces quickly if bleach drips on them, so they don’t tarnish.We pull back the carpet in areas to be bleached.Do not bleach near furniture.Using strong bleach for mold removal requires good eye and skin protection, and good ventilation.
Human Studies Show Bleach Solution Reduces Allergenic Properties of Mold
Dilute bleach (1:16) not only kills common household mold and mold spores, but neutralizes the mold allergens that cause most mold-related health complaints. – Published in the September 2005
issue of The Journal of Allergy and Clinical Immunology
While dilute bleach will neutralize allergens, it does not kill all mold and mold spores, nor will it neutralize all mold toxins. Toxins and allergens are not the same thing. Toxins are stronger, and need a stronger approach.Only strong bleach neutralizes mold toxins.
You can think of mold growth as a mix of fast-growing very “thin skin” molds. But with sufficient water and time, you will find slow growing “thick skin” molds that seem greasy, and are hard to remove.Dilute bleach will not remove the greasy molds such as Stachybotrys – the so-called black toxic mold.Dilute bleach with detergent, with some brushing or wiping, will remove such mold. Strong bleach and no detergent, along with some brushing or wiping, will remove greasy molds from surfaces.
BleachBleach––Good for ALL SurfacesGood for ALL Surfaces
As far as we know, bleach is the only biocide that says on its label that it can be used to kill mold on all surfaces. (Label from Clorox brand bleach.)It does not exclude porous surfaces, like ALLothers do.
See: http://www.epa.gov/pesticides/factsheets/chemicals/bleachfactsheet.htmIn 1957, under the authority of the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act (FIFRA), sodium hypochlorite (bleach) was registered for use as an antimicrobial pesticide asa sanitizer or disinfectant to kill:– Bacteria, fungi, and viruses.
Sodium hypochlorite is approved for use in households, food processing plants, agricultural settings, animal facilities, hospitals, and human drinking water supplies.
There is no other disinfecting product with such broad EPA approvals. Nothing as safe to use.Nothing as low cost.Don’t believe the HYPE from mold remediators that bleach does not work.
Professional mold remediation training classes are sponsored by chemical companies that make ineffective and expensive
Chlorine dioxide is now available in a stabilized format where you don’t have to mix 2 components before use.A close relative to bleach, it has many of the benefits of dilute bleach when it comes to disinfecting, but is gentler to fabrics, and better tolerated by chemically sensitive persons.On the right is shown one particular brand found at: www.natlallergy.com. We do not recommend any particular brand or product.
Lysol®, Microban® and many other disinfectants are based on quaternary ammonium compounds. “Quats” for short.None of these kill mold spores or mycotoxins. They will kill some actual mold, but only non-greasymolds.They are safe to use, and are the active ingredient in pool algaecides. So if you swim in a pool, you are swimming in and drinking diluted quat-based biocide.These are all EPA approved for many uses, and non-toxic and non-irritating at specified concentrations.
Lysol® spray disinfectant in a can is very effective in preventing mold and bacterial growth after water damage.Lysol® in a can is an alcohol-based Quat formula, and is much more effective than spray bottles of Lysol®, which are water based.Besides being excellent disinfectants, alcohol-based products help to quickly dry surfaces.We use such products extensively in kitchens and bathrooms.
Walmart and other stores sell generic disinfectant sprays in spray cans. These formulas use an alcohol-based Quatformula, and are very similar to Lysol® sprays.We have excellent results with either product.
This biocide was developed to clean soldiers and materials exposed to Biowarfare agents.It is designed to kill spores and mycotoxins when it is applied as a foam or liquid. There is no data that shows that it is effective when fogged.MDF-500 is (more or less) a mix of household strength hydrogen peroxide and a very high concentration of Quat. It will not kill built up mold. Mold must be pre-cleaned before MDF-500 is applied.
It does not damage materials, as does bleach.MDF-500 is not approved for use in all states, and claims to work much better than bleach because it keeps on killing.It leaves a very high concentration of chemical residue (compared to disinfectants EPA approved for household use). That’s not what we are looking for in a treatment.We don’t use it.
Low toxicity and good safety rating by the EPA. EPA says it is suitable for HVAC systems.Does not leave an active chemical residue, and quickly degrades to simple table salt.NO-RINSE.Binary product that requires mixing. Respirator with an Organic Vapor/Acid Gas Cartridge. Can it clean heavy mold build-up? No.
Requires NIOSH approved ½ face respirator with Organic Vapor/Acid Gas Cartridge.EPA requires the area to be evacuated during application, and aired for 1 hour before repopulating.The material (duct work) must be pre-cleaned before application of Oxine. It must be free of dust, mold, soil or debris.It is only recommended for sanitizing hard surfaces. Not fiberglass. Not wall board.We sometimes use this product in helping to sanitize duct work.
Many old buildings (30+ years old) contain lead paint and/or asbestos.Demolition work should not be done on any old buildings unless a hygienist has issued a clearance. Asbestos can be in plaster used in ceilings, especially popcorn. It can be in plaster used in walls, which was then covered up with drywall or plaster without asbestos. Can be in insulation on hot water heater pipes. Can be in linoleum floor tiles. Can be in many places …Lead and asbestos are both very serious hazards.
Most of the containment and Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) requirements for mold remediation are taken from asbestos work.As a general rule, if you remediate mold using the same guidelines as for asbestos, you are notfollowing industry standards set by the EPA and OSHA, and as a result, will be wasting money without any useful benefits.
In fact, asbestos-specific procedures are not as effective as mold removal procedures, so you are actually both wasting money and providing a lesser quality service.Using complex asbestos-like containments and moon suits is not being extra careful. Following EPA guidelines for mold removal makes the most sense from both health and economic points of view for typical mold remediation work.
Exposed wires or live circuits.Structural damage or collapsed ceilings.Slip and fall concerns.Frayed extension cords.Ladders that are not “as new” or not suitable for the job.Always consider whether scaffolding should be used rather than ladders.
Most poly sheeting (such as that sold by Home Depot) is covered with oil, and is very slippery (high slip). If you will use poly to cover the floors, make sure it is not oil-covered. (Also, in commercial buildings, or on jobs where the poly will be
up for long periods of time, you must use fire retardant material.)
Are barriers over supply and returns always needed? Not for small jobs, if AC is turned off.Can the containment be made smaller, so that AC vents are not included in the containment? Yes … usually.AC’s can often be left on if the containment does not include AC supplies and returns.– The AC can be used to help clean
the air if upgraded with Merv 8 or better filters.
– The AC keeps down humidity, and can limit mold growth.– Keeping the AC on makes it easier to work in hot months.
Structural problems.Collapsed ceilings, stairs, and floors.Water systems.Sources of uncontrolled air/moisture. Make sure you have the appropriate licenses to make repairs. In some states, even hanging drywall requires a license.
Lock-out normal service to work area at breaker panelEstablish temporary electrical system off main service (requires trained electrician)Use GFCI-protected circuits for equipment
Must have guards if blade is larger than 2 inches.Upper/lower guard must cover the saw to the depth of the teeth. Lower guard must allow for proper retraction. Lower guard must automatically return to covering position.
Makita 14.4-Volt Ni-MH circular saw.Compact and lightweight at only 4.6 pounds with battery.Adjustable cutting depth with easy-to-read gauge on blade housing.This saw is a must for anyone serious about removing drywall. The cutting depth can be set so that you never cut any wires or plumbing.Adjusts easily for 1/2” or 5/8” drywall.
It is important that hand tools be inspected before each use. Damaged or improperly maintained hand tools must not be issued or used.Keep your drywall knife blade sharp (new).If a tool is found to be damaged or otherwise defective, it must be: – Tagged as “Damaged, Do Not Use”, repaired, OR– Made unusable and disposed of.
When using saw blades, knives, or other tools, direct the tools away from your body, from aisle areas, and away from other employees working in close proximity. Again … knives must be sharp. Dull knives can cause more hazards than sharp ones.
Cracked saw blades must immediately be removed from service. Wooden handles of tools must not be splintered. Select a hand tool with a handle that does not conduct electricity or heat. Metal hand tools conduct electricity unless effectively guarded.
Attaches to vacuum & eliminates virtually all drywall dust generated by cutting.Blade is well protected to minimize injury.Blade can be easily set to 5/8” and 1/2” depth for drywall cutting.Keeps you from cutting electrical & plumbing!More expensive than Makita, but does not produce drywall dust.
Sanding wood is a costly method of mold removal recommended by IICRC (www.IICRC.org) and some “schools” for cleaning wood. We feel that this technique is a health hazard, and results in contamination of the work site:– Produces mold micro-particles– Can release harmful chemicals used
in the treatment of wood– Releases glucans (allergenic mold cell-wall materials)
Micro-particles and glucans are not well filtered by HEPA vacs. Nor are they detected by standard clearance testing.
Great for attics and crawl spaces. Make sure you keep a pair with you at all times.In attics you can brace your knees on the rafters when crawling under obstructions like AC ducting …
While these are all called N95, some are better than others. The top picture is a cheap N95.The 8210 is a good quality product. (About $1 each in boxes of 20.)The 8211 works better with heat and moisture (about $2 each), and has a better face seal.They all come in different sizes. 3M™ Particulate
N95 is 95% effective. But what does that mean?– 95% effective to .3 micron.– About 10x the size of the smallest mold
spore.Again there are differences between the various “N95” respirators.The 3M Model 8211 has an exhaust valve that helps keep you cool, and keep the face and respirator dry.It also has a rubber seal that results in a much better fit than many other N95 masks. Yet this is still an N95.
Our favorite N95 respirator is the 8511. Costs about $1.50 each on Amazon.com.It is the same as the 8211, without the rubber seal.The rubber seal allows a tighter seal. However, if you are careful to properly ventilate the work area during remediation, and carefully remove hot spots before going on to the rest of the work … the extra sealing can overdo it.
Why? Because the rubber seal makes the face hot, and is not comfortable. Workers then tend to NOT USE them.
3M™ Particulate Respirator 8516 that filters out nuisance
levels of acid gases
An N95 respirator that filters out nuisance levels of chlorine smells is the 8516. The problem with this respirator compared to the 8511 is that it is harder to breathe.When working with bleach it is better to use good ventilation and an 8511 mask than to work in a room filled with bleach fumes and attempt to control with an 8516.However some employees are sensitive to bleach, and prefer to use the 8516 in addition to good ventilation.
Again, respirators are rated on their protection factor.This one works 99.97% down to .3 microns against non-oil based particles.About $5 each.Do you need N100? Rarely.
The top mask is about $10 without the cartridges (3M Half Face 6000 Series).The bottom mask is a full face 6000 Series respirator. (about $100).Both come in 3 sizes.
PAPR – powered air purifying respirators.Belt-mounted powered respirators.Excellent protection + high level of comfort.No fogging. $500 and up. Can be fitted with any type of filter.Great for dealing with “hot spots”.
Specialty hoods for powered respirators.We like to use these types of hoods when tearing out moldy ceiling on a scaffold.The hood keeps the debris from getting in your hair.The hood is very light weight, and can be discarded after a few uses.No fogging. No problems with eye glasses.
You should check your respirator using positive and negative pressure each time after donning.Smoke generators are for formal fit testing/ training. Respirator fit testing is accomplished in three simple steps: – Bend the smoke generator to break
the enclosed ampoule.– Remove cap and wait 5 seconds.– Compress bellows.
Do you need better than a $1.50 N95 to handle mold problems?Not typically.Best to be careful about dust creation.Focus on better ventilation, and less on higher levels of personal protection.Focus on exhausting to the outside mold spores and dust released during mold removal work.
“… the primary objective shall be to prevent atmospheric contamination. This shall be accomplished as far as feasible by accepted engineering controls. When engineering controls are not feasible … respirators shall be used.” (OSHA)
As a result of well-thought-out engineering controls … there is less contamination of the environment, andWorkers can work more comfortably without heavy duty Personal Protective Equipment (PPE).Or even without respirators? No. Good to have workers always wear N95’s.
Typically, a higher level of protection is used during the demolition or pre-cleaning of any hot spots. Then a lower (more comfortable) level of protection is used when indicated.In our opinion, high levels of protection can be dangerous, as they restrict your eyesight, and ability to use tools.Where possible, pre-clean or use source control methods to reduce exposure during demolition, so that less protection is required.
For asbestos removal, very strict containment rules have been developed.Professional mold remediators have adopted similar rules for putting up containments, and for monitoring containment negative air pressure.
If all you need is to put a fan in a window blowing outward to take care of the job at hand … that is what you should use.The fan in the window is an approved EPA approach to “containment” for small remediation jobs. If you are working in a hospital, you’d better consider monitoring the air pressure.In many other situations, noticing if the plastic containment is billowing in will be satisfactory.
We use drywall dust filters in low-cost Wet Vacs. They filter out fine dust.We connect the Wet Vac exhaust to a long hose, and exhaust the air outdoors, because the filters don’t filter out all or filter out the smallest particles.This is not only much cheaper than using a HEPA Vac … it also works much better.In our experience, HEPA Vacs leak all the time. They don’t work as advertised.Best to use Wet Vacs and exhaust outside.
If you would like to receive a Certificate of Course Completion, please send a check for $25 payable to:
Gary Rosen2881 W Lake Vista CircleDavie, FL 33328
Please include your name, address and the course name. Your signature on the check is your affidavit that you have completed the entire course.To help us maintain and improve the quality of our online courses, kindly take a few minutes and fill out the Course Evaluation form (this is course EPP0002-004), and email it to us.The Evaluation can be downloaded at:
www.Green-Buildings.org/online-courses.html
Certificate of CompletionCertificate of Completion