RoR Step-by-Step Review 20120907* – Ford AeroMax 1:32 ...€¦ · 9/7/2012 · RoR Step-by-Step Review 20120907* – Ford AeroMax 1:32 scale Revell Kit 85-1975 Review A Step-by-Step

RoR Step-by-Step Review 20120907* – Ford AeroMax 1:32 scale Revell Kit 85-1975 Review

A Step-by-Step review by Doug Cole When Ford introduced the AeroMax line of trucks it ushered in a new era of aerodynamic sensibility for the medium and heavy duty truck market. Following the fuel spikes of the 90’s, the use of wrap-around headlights and bumpers along with flowing hood and grill shapes, were heartily welcomed by truck fleets and independents alike. These popular descendants live on under the Sterling name even today. For the Modeler: This kit features easy snap-together assembly and 52 plastic parts. No paint or glue is required although a touch of adhesive here and there helps hide the seams and adds strength to the construction. There is little flash; so the pieces fit together very well but there are some sprue stems that you’ll need to trim off with a sandpaper stick. You could build this kit in half an hour using the molded in color, chrome and clear pieces and colorful stickers; and that makes it a great kit for the novice builder or youngster. On the other hand, if you want a great looking display you’ll need to add some details. Adding a complimentary body color; accenting the interior and exterior with paint, pen and foil; fixing warped parts; build sequence deviations; and getting the most out this basic SnapTite kit are all fully explored in this Step-by-Step review.

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Fig 000a) Here is how the kit is packaged with some attractive box art of the actual model and the parts are all bagged except for the frame. Fig 10) After examining the contents of the package I noticed that the frame was twisted and warped. Here

you’re looking down the length of the frame with a ruler clamped to the backend. The straight red line in the foreground shows how much the frame was twisted. Sometimes this happens but as this is the base of the model; it has to be corrected.

At first I tried a hot water dip but it wouldn’t soften the plastic enough to correct the shape so I clamped the back end (at the ruler), grabbed the front end (at the red line area) and twisted the frame while cautiously using a blow dryer to soften the plastic. Hold it in place a few minutes then give it a cold water bath and it will stay in the correct position.


Fig 22) The first parts I assembled were the two pieces to the fifth wheel plate and mount (parts 14 & 15). I used some liquid plastic adhesive to these parts to ensure they would stay together when the plate is pivoted and set it aside to dry. This is out of sequence for the assembly instructions but as you’ll see that will happen frequently due to the fact that I chose to paint this kit instead of just going with the molded-in colors.

Fig 43) Assemble all the parts that are to be painted black and mount them just off the surface you’re using. The tires and the parts to the right were painted flat black and those to the left were sprayed a gloss black. You’ll have to flip the gloss black parts over as well as the mud flaps to coat both sides. The wheels only have one side so they don’t need to be turned over.


Fig 26) Next I assembled the main cab and all the fairings (part 22 is not yet attached in this photo). I do this first to get the body painted and provide extra time to dry before handling it. First, I shortened the mounting pins in the body top (part 19) to ensure that it would seat fully and used a little cement to keep it in place. I did the same thing to the rear cab wall (part 22) and held them together until the glue set. Remove any minor flash with a hobby knife and some sandpaper then give the parts a cleaning with warm water and dish soap. Let them dry.


Fig 41) Assemble and mount the parts that are painted body color together and give them a couple coats of sandable primer. I used DupliColor light gray here and started with the inside of the cab because you can see inside there through the open windows. Prop the parts up off the painting surface and when they’re dry, sand off any minor imperfections. Wash and dry them in warm soap and water as before and then repeat the process using the color coat.

Fig 41a) I chose a light yellow color (Model Master’s #28102 Phoenician Yellow) to compliment the brown stripes of the kit supplied stickers. Within an hour spray the parts with a clear coat. I used DupliColor Engine Enamel. Now they can be set aside to dry thoroughly before handling.

Fig 33) At this point I used black and silver Sharpies to detail the cab’s windshield. The window frames are a black colored material and the windshield wiper arms are silver. I colored the wiper arms silver first then the wiper blades black along with the windshield frame. The cab’s side windows were easier to paint with some flat black bottle paint.

Fig 38) Now you can add the window glass to the cab to complete that subassembly. It snapped firmly into place and didn’t require any adhesive which is a great thing for windows.

Figs 07 & 10) I had the same considerations for the interior of the cab as far as getting that painted early to give it time to dry. Although you can’t get a good look at it; you can still see portions of the interior through the windows so I decided to add some detail to it. I started by placing some foil on the sleeper bed to keep the “sheets” nice and white and trimmed it to follow the shape. I then sprayed the interior with a tan

color (Krylon “Brown Boots” Satin). Remove the foil soon after to reveal the sheet. Set aside to dry.


Fig 18) After the base color was dried I finished off the interior by adding a khaki green wash to the bed blanket and matching pillow to give it some texture. I then added the instrument panel sticker to the dash. I then added a silver horn button to the steering mast and press it into place. I painted the shifter arm and selector button silver and installed it into the floor slot. Now you can press the interior into the cab.


Fig 029 & 30) The chrome parts were among the most time consuming portions of the kit because they had some quality issues (as seen by the warping of the exhaust stacks) and the fact that the parts that represent lenses need to be painted the appropriate colors. After you remove the exhaust stacks from the tree gently bend them into shape using both hands. Use a little flat black on the exhaust tips to represent some wear.

Fig 31) The grill takes quite a bit of detailing. Even the Ford Oval needs to be painted blue because there is no sticker for that in the kit. I thinned down a little Ford Blue and after it started to set; I rubbed the blue off the chrome lettering to let them show through. The horizontal bars of the grill were painted with a thinned flat black wash and again the raised bars were wiped clean after the paint was dry enough. The headlights (vertical lines) were painted white and the turn signal lens was painted Testor’s turn signal amber #2723.

Fig 60) The extra effort is worth it though as the results really set off the grin on this big guy.


Fig 44) The front bumper was previously painted flat black and now it’s time to “chrome” the top half. It is shown here with an aptly sized piece of bright chrome Bare Metal Foil. Just press it into place and smooth it out then remove the upper portion with a sharp hobby knife at the seam. Paint the depressions amber too.

Fig 05) While you’ve got the amber paint out; finish off these parts as well. I chose two of the cab lights for this and don’t forget the forward facing mirror mounted turn signals.

Fig 11) After the amber dries turn the side mirrors over and paint the back side red. Also include the taillights and the remaining cab lights. I used Tamiya Clear Red #4630.

Fig 34 & 35) The other issue with the chrome parts dealt with the wheels, where I found the only significant flash on the whole kit. Fortunately, it was easily cured. Turn the wheels over and use a hobby blade to trim the flash out of the holes. You could also use an appropriate sized drill bit to do this but I would chuck it into a hand drill or pin vise.


Fig 22a) Detail paint the engine and transmission. I used some Ford blue and aluminum paint to accomplish this. It isn’t much but it really makes fro a nicer appearance when you turn the model over.

Fig 38a & 40) There is a prominent centerline on the tires that really should be cleaned up for a proper display. Use a hobby blade to scrape the flash at the centerline and then follow that up with some medium grit sand paper. This also gives the tires a realistic appearance.

Fig 21) Mount the rear axles to the frame. I used a little glue here to ensure stability.


Fig 25) Mount the front axle to the frame. This needs a little finesse because you have to flex the springs into place behind the mounting notches on the frame. I used a little liquid cement here too and noticed that there seems to be a “forward” direction to the axle set that fits a little better. There’s a notch in the leaf springs and the section that is more raised, should go to the front.

Fig 27) Simply snap on the wheels and tires per the directions and the frame is completed. Fig 29) Now snap on the exhaust stacks and the driveshaft.


Fig 31) Snap the fifth wheel into place and the chassis is done too.

Fig 43) At this point you can start adding some of the exterior details like the cab lights.

Fig 46) Some of the exterior stickers need to be applied now to facilitate to precede installation of the grab handles. Use the instruction placement guide and start with the rear stickers and line up the precut holes for the grab handles. Once in place; install the forward sticker on the driver’s side matching the lines to the rear sticker and lining up the door hinge opening. The tip of the sticker should be just above the front fender. Fig 64) Note that the sticker completely covers the AeroMax fender logo on this side. On the passenger side the sticker is cut out where the side logo appears


Fig 56) Snap the fuel tanks (white arrow) into place using a little cement for good measure and then install the side panels onto them on each side.

Fig 59) Snap the grill into place and then snap the body onto the chassis using the large front and rear tabs and slots.

Fig 61) Windup the completed model by adding some more paint details. I painted the main door handles and hood strap flat black, the fuel tank caps chrome and the fifth wheel latch release chrome. Attach all the remaining grab handles and cab lights, air horns, mud flaps, taillights, license plates, etc.


Fig 999) With a little extra work you’ll have a simple snap kit that you’re proud to display. The only thing tricky about the whole kit was the installation of the front axle assembly. The entire kit was very well designed and went together flawlessly. There was very little flash and the instructions were very clearly written. If you want to use the kit as a builder for the novice; dispense with the details and just have fun watching them put this quality kit together in under an hour.


RoR Step-by-Step Review 20120907* – Ford AeroMax 1:32 ...€¦ · 9/7/2012 · RoR Step-by-Step Review 20120907* – Ford AeroMax 1:32 scale Revell Kit 85-1975 Review A Step-by-Step

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