Assignment On 1) Relation Between Yarn count and GSM 2) Different types of accessories sourcing and costing Course Code: TE-308 Course Title: Apparel Manufacturing-II with lab Submitted to: Mr. Mohammad Abdul Baset , Lecturer Department of TE DIU Submitted by: Group : MIG-29 Rasadul Haque Akanda……. ID: 093-23-1617 1
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Relation Betwwen Yarn Count and Fabric GSM and About Accessories and Trimmings of Bangladesh
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Assignment On
1) Relation Between Yarn count and GSM 2) Different types of accessories sourcing and costing
Course Code: TE-308Course Title: Apparel Manufacturing-II with lab
Submitted to:Mr. Mohammad Abdul Baset , Lecturer
Department of TEDIU
Submitted by:Group: MIG-29
Rasadul Haque Akanda……. ID: 093-23-1617 Abdur Rahim……………….ID:093-23-1639 Al Jubayar Rahman ………….ID :093-23-1649 Zannatul Niem Tumpa……….ID:093-23-1642 Samiul Bari …………………..ID:091-23-1216
Sec: C (L3T2)Department of TE
DIU
Date of Submission: Thrusday,19April,2012
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Content
A) Introduction--------------------------------------------------------------- 03 B) Yarn Count or Yarn numbering system-----------------------------------03C)Relation between count and GSM for different knit Fabric :--------------------------05-08C-1) KNITTING CHARGE------------------------------------------------ 07 D)Trims and Accessories------------------------------------------------08E)List of Trims and accessories:--------------------------------------08F) Sea Freight and Air Freight ------------------------------------------------------------------------------10G) Shipping Terms---------------------------------------------------------------11H)Country and port-------------------------------------------------------------------------12
I)Different tapes of accessories souring,costing and contact info of Bangladesh:-------------------12-30
Introduction: The quality and price of fabric is greatly depend on yarn count .If the count is high then the finer of the yarn will be increase and the weight of fabric per squre meter decrease so that value of GSM decrease and cost will increase. Cost of fabic is proporsional with yarn count and inverse proportional with GSM.
To full fill the design objectives we need different kind of materials. Fabrics are the main material, which used for garment manufacturing. We need other materials also, which make the garments aesthetic, functional and commercially required. Usually other than fabrics these material used for making garments are called trims and accessories.
Yarn Count or Yarn numbering system
Yarn Count:Yarn Count is a number indicating mass per unit length or length per unit mass which defines its fineness or coarseness.
Yarn numbering or counting system:
There are two basic system of yarn numbering-1.Direct system (mass per unit length)2.Indirect system (length per unit mass)
Direct system : In a direct yarn counting system count is the weight of a unit length of yarn.Here length is fixed and weight is variable.Let,N=Yarn number or count.W=Weight of a sample.L=Length of a sample.l=Unit length of the system.Then, N=(w*l)/LExample-Tex,Millitex,Kilotex,Denier,Jute etc.
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Unit of length and weight in Direct yarn counting system:\Name of the system Unit of mass Unit of lengthTex gm 1 KmDenier gm 9 KmJute pound(lb) 1 spyndle=14400yds
Some important Definition :
Tex:Tex is defined as weight in gm per kilometer of yarn.Millitex:It is defined as the weight in milligrams per kilometer of yarn.Kilotex:It is defined as weight in kilograms per km of yarn.10 Tex:It is defined as the weight of per kilometer yarn is 10 gm.
Denier: Denier is defined as the weight in gram per 9 km of yarn.110 Denier:It is defined as the weight of 9 km yarn is 110 gm.
Jute:It is defined as the weight in pound per 1 spyndle of yarn.
Indirect System : In an indirect system yarn count is the unit of length per unit weight of yarn.Here weight is fixed and length is variable.Let,N=Yarn count.W=Weight of sample.L=Length of sample.l=Unit length of the system.w=Unit weight of the system.
Then, N=(L*w)/(l*W)
Example-Cotton,Metric,Worsted.
Some important Definition:
Cotton count(Ne):It is defined as the length in hank of 840 yds per pound of yarn.
30 Ne:It is defined as the 30 hank of length (30*840 yds) per pound of yarn.Metric count:It is defined as the length in Km per Kg of Yarn.Worsted count:It is defined as the length in hank of 560 Yds per pound of yarn.
Unit of length and weight in indirect yarn counting system:4
Name of the system Unit of length Unit of weightCotton(Ne)/British/English
840 yds(1 hank) 1 lb
Metric(Nm) Km 1 KgWorsted(Nw) 560 yds (1 hank) 1 lb
Problem 01:If a Skein/Reel/Hank of 100 m of filament yarn weighs 1.67 gm calculate it’s denier.Solution:Here,Weight of sample W=1.67 gm Length of sample L=100 mUnit length of the system l=9 Km =9000 m
We know, N=(W*l)/L =(1.67*9000)/100 =150.3 Denier Ans:
Yarn Price: Per Kg in USDa. P/C or Carded yarn price sameb. CVC or Combed Yarn Price samec. 5 cost need to add from20’s (as a standard count) for 4 count difference.
KNITTING CHARGE:
TYPE OF FABRIC:- Per Kg in USDSingle Jersey - Solid dyed= $ 0.17Single Jersey- with 5%-10% Elastane, Solid dyed= $0.63Single Jersey- with 5%-10% Elastane, Y/D, Feeder stripe=$0.88Single Jersey- with 5%-10% Elastane, Y/D, Eng stripe=$2.35Single Jersey - Yarn dyed, Feeder stripe=$0.49Single Jersey - Eng Stripe =$2.16Single Jersey - Single Mercerized, Solid dyed=$0.18Single Jersey - Double Mercerized- Solid dyed=$0.18Single Jersey - Single Mercerized - Eng stripe=$2.18Single Jersey - Double Mercerized - Eng stripe=$2.24Pique - Solid dyed=$0.31Pique - with 5% Elastane, Solid dyed=$0.69Pique - Yarn dyed, Feeder Stripe=$0.59Pique - with 5% Elastane, Yarn dyed, Feeder stripe=$0.69Pique - Eng Stripe =$2.16Pique - Single Mercerized, Solid dyed=$0.34Pique - Double Mercerized - Eng stripe=$2.241X1 Rib - Solid dyed=$0.311X1 Rib/ 2X2 Rib - Yarn dyed, Feeder stripe =$0.691X1 Rib - with 5% Elastane, Solid dyed=$0.692X2 Rib - Solid dyed=$0.562X2 Rib - with 5% Elastane, Solid dyed=$0.88Variable/ Placement Rib – Solid dyed=$0.74Plain Interlock - Solid dyed=$0. 41Plain Interlock - Yarn Dyed=$0. 47Drop Needle Interlock - Solid dyed=$0. 46Jacquard/ interlock(design) - Solid dyed=$0. 74Jacquard/ interlock(design) - Single Mercerized=$0. 79Jacquard/ interlock(design) - Double Mercerized=$0.81Fleece Fabric (French Terry) - Solid dyed=$0. 56Fleece Fabric With Brush - Solid dyed==$0. 56Fleece with Elastane (5%) - Solid dyed=$0.69Mini Waffle or Waffle - Solid dyed=$0.65Mélange (Wash Only) Single Jersey=$0.16
Trims: The raw materials used in sewing room other than fabric are called Trims.On the other hand we can say that which materials are directly attached with the fabric to make a garment are called trims. Like: Threads, buttons, lining, Interlining, zippers, labels, care labels, etc. (Interlining is used as shape forming / preserving materials.)
Accessories:The materials, which are used to make a garment attractive for sale and packing, other than fabrics and trims, are called Accessories.
List of Trims and accessories:
SL Trims SL Accessories1 Label (S) 1 Poly bag2 Button 2 Elastic bag3 Zipper 3 Mini Poly bag4 Padding 4 Master Carton5 Interlining 5 Inner carton6 Down 6 Size clip7 Elastic 7 P. P. band8 Thread 8 Tag pin9 Twill Tape 9 Brass pin10 Stopper 10 Collar stand11 String/ Draw
Cord11 Safety pin
12 Piping Cord 12 Gum tape13 Emblem 13 Arrow sticker14 Logo print 14 Scotch tape15 D- Ring 15 Barcode Sticker16 Swivel Hook 16 Defect indicator17 Eyelet/ Grommet 17 Tissue paper
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18 Collar Stay 18 Back board19 Cord Bell 19 Neck board20 Buckle 20 Butterfly21 Rivet 21 Numbering
CM:1. Tee Shirt: 3 USD/dzn2. Polo Shirt: 5-8 USD/dzn3. Tank Top: 1.5-2.5 USD/dzn
Sea Freight and Air Freight
Although most orders for garments are placed by buyers on FOB basis, with buyers to pay for freight at the shipping destination, it is still necessary for the shipper or the agent to know how to calculate sea freight and air freight as buyers always need to know how much freight the merchandise cost per dz. If you are required to sell on CIF basis, (with the shipper to prepay for freight at the shipping port) you will need to calculate the freight accurately for your own costing.
1. Sea freight: Sea freight is usually charged based on volume—how much per CBM (cubic meter)—very rarely by weight as “density cargo”. In fact ANERA (Asia North America eastbound rate agreement) has designed the freight tariff more based on the usual value of the type of goods, than the usual weight of them, taking into consideration that for low value merchandise they should give a low freight rate in order to make it possible for the importers to buy goods overseas. However, for high value merchandise, they should charge a high freight rate, as it is believed that the buyer can afford to pay more on freight. They have designed the freight tariff in such a way that everybody can do business and there is sufficient profit for the shipping lines.
Container size
Calculated Capacity
Practical capacity
Container FCL rate
FCL rate for CBM
LCL Rate per CBM
20” Capacity
29.5 CBM 27 CBM 3500 130 160
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40” Normal
61.32 CBM
54 CBM 5000 92 160
40” Hi Cube
69.15 CBM
62 CBM 6500 92 160
Note: FCL: Full container Loading LCL: Loose container Loading
If you ship very heavy goods as loose cargo because the size of the shipment is very small, the shipping lines will charge you by weight or by volume whichever is higher.
1 CBM (100 cm X 100 cm X 100 cm) = 1000 Kg
2. Air freight: Unlike sea freight, the airlines have decided to charge for the heavy merchandise (high density goods) by weight, and lightweight merchandise (low density goods) by volume. However, as airplanes can take less weight than ocean liners, the way theySet the standard, in the garment industry, when you ship goods by air, you have a 70% chance to be charged by weight, about 30% chance by volume.
Shipping Terms
1. CM: Cost of making/ cutting and making2. FOB: Freight on board3. C & F: Cost and freight / Clearing and forwarding4. CIF: Cost, insurance and freight5. CIFI: Cost, insurance, freight and interest6. CIFE: Cost, insurance, freight and exchange7. COD: Cash on delivery8. CWO: Cash with order9. FOW: Free on wagon10.Franco: (…Named Port of Shipment)11.FOB: Free on Board (…Named Port of Shipment)12.CFR: Cost and Freight (…Named Port of Destination)13.CIF: Cost, Insurance and Freight (…Named port of Destination)14.CPT: Carriage Paid To (…Named Place of Destination)15.CIP: Carriage and instruction paid to (…Named Place of Destination)
16.DAF: Delivered at frontier (..Named Place)17.DES: Delivered Ex Ship (…Named Port of Destination)18.DEQ: Delivered Ex QUAY (…Named Port of Destination)19.DDU: Delivered Duty Unpaid (…Named Place of Destination)
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20.DDO: Delivered Duty Paid (…Named Place of Destination)
Country and port
Country Port Sweden HamburgSweden GothenburgSpain Barcelona Italy GenovaSweden BarcelonaFrance Leharve U.K. Liverpool Germany Quaken Bruech Netherlands Rotterdam
Different tapes of accessories souring,costing and contact info of Bangladesh:
1) 100%spun polister sweing thread
ARIF TEXTAILE &KNITTING MILL [ Manufacturer ] Bangladesh
100% spun polister thread....
FOB Price: US $ 0.97 / Piece Port: Narayangonj Minimum Order Quantity: 100 Carton/CartonsSupply Ability: 5000 Piece/Pieces per Day Payment Terms: L/C
FOB Price: US $ 5 - 15 / Gross Port: Any port of Bangladesh Minimum Order Quantity: 1000 GrossSupply Ability: 20000 Roll/Rolls per Day Payment Terms: L/C,D/A,D/P,T/TContact Information
Contact Person: Mr. Wahid Ahmed
Company Name: TEXTURE ELASTIC & ACCESSORIES Street Address: Halishahar
Coronet Label industries producing a high quality Label for Garments Accessories. For your any query You can browse our site ....Product Type: Garment Labels
FOB Price: US $ 100 - 200 / Bag Minimum Order Quantity: 100000 Bag/BagsSupply Ability: 100000. Bag/Bags per Day Payment Terms: L/C,T/T
FOB Price: US $ 2 - 4 / Pack Port: Chittagong Port Minimum Order Quantity: 5000 Piece/PiecesSupply Ability: 2000 Pack/Packs per Day Payment Terms: D/P,T/T,Western Union,MoneyGramContact Information
Contact Person: Mr. Tofayel Ahmed
Company Name: GreenAccessories Street Address: House# Momotazmohal, 6 / A, Road# 2B
FOB Price: US $ 5 - 6 / Piece Port: Chittagong Port Minimum Order Quantity: 1000 Box/BoxesSupply Ability: 100 Box/Boxes per Day Payment Terms: L/C,T/T,Western Union,MoneyGramC Contact Information
Contact Person: Mr. Tofayel Ahmed
Company Name: GreenAccessories Street Address: House# Momotazmohal, 6 / A, Road# 2B
From 14 linge to 60 Linge Button Plastic Pearl, Horn, Chalk, Square, Flower, TPT, Fancy, Heart Button..
FOB Price: US $ 0.5 - 9 / Dozen Minimum Order Quantity: 12000 Dozen/DozensSupply Ability: 12000 Dozen/Dozens per Day Payment Terms: L/C,Western Union
Contact Information
Contact Person: Mr. Ashek E. Alahi
Company Name: Button Tex Limited Street Address: 43 / 2, Ring Road, Shamoli, Mohammadpur
City: Dhaka Province/State: Dhaka
Country/Region: Bangladesh Zip: 1207
Telephone: 880-2-9121021
Conclusion: Retaliation between yarn count and fabric GSM has a great effect on costing and the price of accessories has also a great effect on the costing of RMG sector. If any one can choose his career as a merchandiser he must acquire knowledge about costing and souring of different tapes of accessories.