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MERCHANDISING: THE EXECUTION

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Chapter 5Line Development:Principles and Technologies


3

Line Development• Creation of a group of garment styles for a specific time

period (collection)• Process requires

– Understanding: Sense of market– Conceptualization: Quickly and effectively visualize new

styling ideas– Creation: Develop finished garment styles that meet the

expectations set forth in conceptualization stage through efficient design process


4

Successful Development Strategies

• Utilize new technologies and teamwork to synchronize process

• Apply interactive online fashion information services, integrated graphics, PDS, PIM, and video conferencing

• Focus on advanced communications and computer integration of data and process control with suppliers and producers


5

Creative Process

• Ability to visualize a concept that will capture the essence of a consumer’s buying urge almost one year in the future

• Merchandiser and product manager must understand creative abilities of design team

• Merchandisers and product managers must maintain control of the process (merchandising calendar/line development calendar) without stifling creativity

• Merchandiser and product manager must understand creative elements of design


6

Styling

• Styling involves creating concepts and theme direction for each line

• Stylist must be skilled in fashion illustration techniques

• Critical areas that affect styling direction are color, fabric, and silhouette


7

Design

• Design interprets the concepts developed by stylists into actual garments

• Craft: pattern design, grading, garment construction techniques, interplay of fabric, findings, and trims

• In small and medium-sized companies the designer performs the function of styling the line


8

Design Elements

• Merchandiser and product manager must have a thorough understanding of the elements of design– Color– Line– Shape– Texture


9

Color

• Has immediate and powerful impact on perception

• Different materials alter color

• Different weaves create different shades when woven with same lot of dyed yarn

• Management design decisions must be made concerning color standards

• After color standards are set, color computers can provide consistent results


10

Color Management

• Color management systems provide process and controls to maintain color consistency throughout a product line

• Merchandiser should establish color management criteria• Color theory is a complex science• Color can affect sales


11

Dimensions of Color

• Hue • Value• Intensity


12

Hue

• Scale of perceptions that range from red through yellow, green, and blue and circularly back to red (color wheel)

• Hues that affect perception of fabrics, which absorb light, are subtractive (pigment) primary colors yellow, blue, and red.

• Hues produced by a computer monitor are from emitted light, which are additive primary colors red, green, and blue.


13

Warm Colors

• Reds• Yellows• Oranges• Stimulating, exciting,

aggressive, cheerful, or lively


14

Cool Colors

• Blues• Greens• Purples• Quiet, peaceful,

refreshing, or reserved


15

Neutral Colors

• Tans• Browns• Grays• Black• White• Sophistication, do not

detract from other colors


16

Value

• Variation of light strength in a color• White is total presence of light• Black is total absence of light• Lightest values are tints: colors mixed with white• Darker values are tones: colors mixed with gray• Darkest values are shades: colors mixed with black

Tint Tone Shade


17

Contrast

• Contrasts of low- and high-value colors when applied to garments can create illusions

• Low value or light colors draw attention and create illusion of being larger

• Higher value or darker colors create illusion of being smaller• Light contrasted with dark draws eye away from dark area to

light areas


18

Intensity

• Strength or weakness of color determined by saturation or vividness of hue.

• Pure primary colors are most intense

• Intensity can be lowered by mixing primary color with another hue or gray


19

Color Notation• Standard system for referencing colors• Munsell and PANTONE® color notation systems are

widely used (color chips or swatches of various fabrics)• Many computer software applications are linked to

PANTONE® and Munsell color systems

www.pantone.com http://usa.gretagmacbethstore.com


20

Light Conditions

• Fluorescent, incandescent, or natural sunlight can cause fabric colors to take on different hues (metameric effect)

• Fabrics should be selected using a controlled viewing light that can duplicate different lighting conditionshttp://www.xenotest.de


21

Range or Colorway

• The colors that a line is offered in• Too few can result in lost sales• Too many can result in high development and

inventory carrying costs• Merchandiser and product manager often makes

final color decisions based upon line plan


22

Line

• Design element that determines direction of visual interest in a garment

• Visual path the eye takes when viewing a garment

• Created by placement and shape of parts, fabric prints or patterns, use of color, seam positioning, pleats, darts, tucks, folds, trims or even topstitching (long skirt, shirt placket, princess seam, bold double-stitched lap seam on jeans


23

Line

• Thin vertical lines or long diagonal lines add height and slenderize

• Broad horizontal lines widen the figure or cut it into shorter segments


24

Shape

• An enclosed space or boundary produced in two or three dimensions

• Silhouette in two dimensions

• Body style in three dimensions– Fitted to follow natural

curves– Oversized to hide the

body– Triangular to exaggerate

a body part


25

Texture

• Surface variations• Fiber type• Yarn structure• Fabric construction• Fabric finishes• Skilled stylist or designer can use texture to

create dramatic contrasts or fluid continuity


26

Design Principles

• Gestalt psychology - Perception with eye and brain defining visual images as a pattern or whole rather than the sum of finite component parts

• Elements of design can create visual perception

“Tessellations, in particular, can take on very different appearances based on how they are colored. Even in the black and white picture above, if you look closely, you will see that the small white squares appear brighter than the larger ones.” (The Shodor Education Foundation, Inc.)


27

Proportion

• Relationship between garment as a whole and the size and placement of parts and shapes (scale)

• Equal and balanced• Unequal and contrasting• Affected by line and shape• Pockets, sleeves, cuffs, yokes,

pant legs, waistbands, and collars affect proportion


28

Balance

• Equal distribution of visual weight on a garment

• Visual weight of different elements are evaluated relative to vertical and horizontal axes of a garment

• Horizontal balance (top to bottom)

• Vertical balance (side to side)

Fig 5.5


29

Rhythm

• Sense of movement and continuity created by repetition

• Repetition is repeated use of design element

• Creates a visually smooth transition through repeated design elements (different scales of print motif on sweater and skirt; binding or trim on collars, cuffs, and pockets; use of color blocking; contrasting topstitching; pleats or tucks)

Fig 5.6


30

Emphasis

• Directs viewer’s attention to a specific area of a garment (splash of color, converging lines, dramatic shapes, sharp contrast)

• Creates visual interest• Directs eye to positive part of

body or lead it away from a problem area (v-neck or contrasting collar draws attention to face, bold belts bring attention to waist, large pockets bring attention to area of pockets)

Fig 5.7


31

Harmony

• Combined result of individual elements of design and their integration through effective use of design principles

• Creates the effect that a customer sees when they try on a garment and look into a mirror

Fig 5.8


32

Design Principles

• Not hard and fast scientific rules• Can be modified or even breached to achieve a

specific creative objective• Design decisions must be intentional, not in error in

order to achieve harmony


33

Merchandiser and Production Manager Responsibility

• Focus efforts of design team• Evaluate each style against fashion trends

evolving for target market• How does each style utilize design elements and

design principles?• Team leader, planner, and controller


34

Effective Merchandiser

• Thorough understanding of elements and principles of design

• Skilled in garment construction• Inquisitive• Highly perceptive• Motivated to reach higher standard of design

excellence


35

Computer Technology

• Sophisticated color illustration systems• CAD systems that drape computer generated fabrics onto

3-D silhouettes• Advanced pattern design systems (PDS)• Product information management systems (PIMs)• Videoconferencing• Fashion information services• Web-based data management systems

Fig 5.9


36

Computer Technology

• Shrink line development cycle• Expand designer creativity• Improve design communications• Enhance process controls• Smooth integration of product development with

manufacturing and sourcing• Reduce line development costs• Increase responsiveness in a global environment

Fig 5.10


37

Fashion Information Services

• Worth Global Style Network• Trend reports for all categories• Daily fashion news updates• Store reports from styling services• Fashion and trade events• Resource libraries digitizing works of

art and graphics


38

Integrated Graphics Systems

• Styling sketches and fashion illustrations• Technical garment drawings• Color story boards• Logos, labels, embroidery, appliques• Woven, knit and print textile designs• Drape textile designs or scanned fabrics onto

illustrations or photographs• Print textile designs onto fabric• Create digital 24-bit color separations


39

Integrated Graphics Systems

• Vision Fashion Studio (www.gerbertechnology.com )

• Ned Graphics Fashion Studio (www.bluefoxta.com )

• Kaledo™ Style - Apparel Design (www.lectra.com )

• DigiFab (www.digifab.com )

• Colorspan (www.colorspan.com )

• Primavision Graphics Moda (www.lectra.com )

• Mimaki (www.mimakiusa.com)


40

Pattern Design Systems

• Accuracy: 1/10 millimeter• Speed: Pattern grading, deriving facings and garment parts• Flexibility: Adjustments can be made at fit session, quickly test new

silhouettes• Optimize fabric use: Auto markers from design station• Can generate 2D patterns from 3D images and 3D images from 2D patterns


41

Pattern Design Systems

• Modaris (www.lectra.com)

• AccuMark Pattern Design (www.gerbertechnology.com)

• Scanvec Garment Systems (www.optitex.com )

• Gerber 3D Direct (www.gerbertechnology.com)

• Tukatech (www.tukatech.com)


42

Product Information Management Systems

• Aids merchandisers to control line development and communicate accurate product data to manufacturing and sourcing

• Utilize relational databases and technical drawing software• Style information is accurate, up-to-date, and instantly

available


43

PIMs Provide

• Product development calendars

• Technical drawings• Colorways documentation• Style description sheets• Bills of materials• Packaging details• Costing data• Detailed garment

specification sheets


44

PIMs Provide

• Tables of measurement• Quality control

information• Vendor quote sheets• Centralized file

management update in real time

• Internet integration to transmit forms and data worldwide


45

PIMs

• Freeborders PLM Suite (www.freeborders.com)

• JustWin Apparel (www.justwin.com)

• PDM & Web PDM 5.0 (www.gerbertechnology.com )

• Gallery Web (http://www.lectra.com )


46

• Communicate among multiple locations• Communicate visual information for product and

line reviews• Communicate with manufacturing or sourcing for

construction or specification changes• Picture worth 1000 words• World Health Organization Travel Advisories (SARS)

Videoconferencing


47

Videoconferencing

• Levi Strauss• The Gap• J. C. Penney• Wal-Mart• VF Corporation

End Chapter 5


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line slide

technologies slide

line development creation

design design

efficient design process

product line merchandiser

color consistency

color computers