Paititi Deyermenjian

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1. Quest for Paititi

http://www.paititi.com/index.html

The June 2004 Quest for Paititi exploration team followed the direction of the

Inca Road of tone penetratin! the northern reaches of Peru"s Pantiacolla

re!ion and documented the Incas presence in this m#sterious land east of the$ndes. %xplorer& 're! (e#ermen)ian and his Quechua*spea+in! nati,e !uides&

Paulino and $l-erto amani& 'o#o Toledo and the lm crew of Producer&

'arrett tran! and 1inemato!rapher& %rin ar,e# slashed their wa# throu!h

thic+ets and under-rush for o,er two wee+s to unco,er a num-er of si!nicant

Inca ruins.

3or nearl# two decades& (e#ermen)ian and his crew ha,e shed new insi!ht into

Inca culture and unearthed archaeolo!ical sites that ha,e added to the

understandin! of its le!endar# empire& +nown as $ntisu#u or Paititi. ased on

local word of mouth and the ndin!s from the team"s 5666 expedition& the

explorers -elie,e their recent disco,eries could -e directl# related to the

le!end of Paititi& !i,en their strate!ic location to the Road of tone.

3acin! extreme conditions of fri!id cold at altitudes at to 54&000 feet to stead#

heat under the $ndean sun& the expedition team followed its course& despite

se,eral set-ac+s and fati!ue. The# landed -# helicopter north of the 7a!o de

$n!el& an unmapped area until the last expedition 856669. The# settled

south/southeast of 7a!o de $n!el where the# documented the ruins of a series

of ca,es with trian!ular monoliths to which the team wants to return.

3ollowin! a -arel# percepti-le part of an unmapped Incan road -etween the Rio

Paucartam-lo and Rio Timpia& the team faced the drud!er# of lon!& !ruelin!

tre+s into Peru"s Pantiacolla re!ion. hile watchin! their footin!& the# loo+ed

for e,idences of Inca trails that would connect 7a!o de $n!el with ;ltimo

Punto* an area Paulino had -ecome familiar with throu!h local wisdom. The#

tra,ersed the hi!hland ran!e of Tam-ocancha and descended steep tri-utaries

of the Rio apacho. In the unexplored headwaters of the Rio Timpia that lie in

the heart of the Plateau of Pantiacolla& the# faced their most arduous )ourne#

so far.

(eemed a 3la! %xpedition -# The %xplorers 1lu-& this expedition was

professionall# ac+nowled!ed and chronicled as an impressi,e histor# of coura!e and accomplishment as it furthers the cause of exploration and eld

science. 3ollow*up articles on the science and historical si!nicance of the

expedition are -ein! pu-lished.

aps of the disco,eries& to include ceremonial platforms& tom-s and an Incan

compound* are -ein! scrupulousl# constructed from on*location 'P data and

from 're!"s and Paulino"s notes.

http://www.paititi.com/index.htmlhttp://www.paititi.com/index.html


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The expedition also followed another course * the ma+in! of a -roadcast lm.

Producer/(irector& 'arrett tran! and 1inemato!rapher& %rin cott ar,e# ha,e

done a super- )o- with lmin! each aspect of the expedition from the

meticulous preparation for sur,i,al& to the unforeseen dan!ers of tre++in! into

un+nown territor#& as well as the euphoria that dro,e them onward after each

disco,er#. The rou!h*cut ,ersion of Ima!e tudios" lm captures theintermina-le passion and determination of this dedicated team and !i,es

,iewers a rst*hand loo+ at expedition life in this m#stical and perilous land.

2. The 2004 EXPEDITION

ince 56


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that is now +nown as 7a!o de $n!el. The stonewor+ of an ancient Incan

presence around the la+e seemed to continue on& e,er northwestward.

E!"#ore $e%on& 'a(o &e )n(e#

'P technolo!# helped the team trac+ their position alon! the wa#& while the

wisdom and expertise of their achi!uen!a !uide& 'o#o& would lead themtoward the Rio Timpia.

$t nearl# 55&000 feet altitude& another platform of as#mmetrical form& -ein!

shaped li+e a pointed -ullet& with ,e sides& its tip pointed northeast. Its

location o@ered a commandin! ,iew of two distinct ri,er s#stems& that of the

Aa,ero far -elow to the west& and that of the Timpia and its uppermost

tri-utaries to the east.

Rio Ti*"ia

The# continued their )ourne# around the headwaters of the Rio Ticumpincatoward the Rio Timpia& the furthest northern exploration #et. lashin! their wa#

throu!h thic+& centuries*old ,e!etation& the team pushed ahead to an area

where their most important ruins to date were found. Platforms disco,ered.

Incan compound.

The location of the platform**at 52 de!rees& 2B.B minutes south latitude& -# C2

de!rees& 55.B minutes west lon!itude**mar+ it as the furthest Incan ,esti!e to

-e found directl# north of 1usco& and the area as the furthest reach of the land

mass which ma+es up the eseta de Pantiacolla. $nd those dar+ ran!es

-e#ond constituted a -lan+ space on the ;.. (epartment of (efense/ Peru,ian

Instituto 'eo!raco Dacional"s satellite*!enerated maps& an area la-eled($TE ID;3I1I%DT%&insuFcient data& impenetra-le as #et to the e#e in the

s+#. *(e#ermen)ian.

'a+e of Suhi Coha

These ?ones form a perimeter -earin! stron! e,idence of Inca ci,ili?ation&

extendin! alon! the Paucartom-o cordillera in the south toward the Topora+e

Plateau further north. Ruins found.

,. The QUEST -OR P)ITITI Tea*

E!"e&ition Cre

The expedition !roup mo,ed forward in their 20th $nni,ersar# #ear as part of

the $sociacion 1ultural %xploraciones $ntisu#u 8$1%$9& oFciall# inscri-ed

within Peru. %xplorer& 're! (e#ermen)ian is president of the $1%$ to which all

the expeditionaries in,ol,ed in this pro)ect -elon!.


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%xplorer& 're! (e#ermen)ian is a nati,e ostonian and a 3ellow of The

%xplorers 1lu-. 're! is also 1hairman of the clu-"s Dew %n!land 1hapter.

(eemed The %xplorers 1lu-"s foremost authorit# on the archaeolo!# and

exploration of the hi!h )un!le areas of southeast Peru& 're! has written man#

articles and presented to audiences of The %xplorers 1lu-& The Institute of

$ndean tudies& the assachusetts Institute of Technolo!#& the $merican Roc+$rt Research $ssociation& and other settin!s within the ;$ and Peru. e is also

a 3ellow of the Ro#al 'eo!raphical ociet#. hen not in the mountains of Peru&

're! wor+s as a ps#cholo!ist for the assachusetts (epartment of ental

Retardation.

Peru,ian %xplorer& Paulino amani is nati,e to the hi!hlands and su-tropical

,alle#s of the Pro,ince of 1alca. e is a mem-er of the $1%$ and a 3ellow

International of The %xplorers 1lu-. Paulino has -een with the Paititi exploration

pro)ect since its inception in 56


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,isits to include the Qetchua Indians in %cuador= the remotel# located 'uarani

in oli,ia and the $#umara Indians sur,i,in! a-o,e 7aPa? in the %l $lto re!ion=

and he lmed the culture of the people in the $ltiplano.

1inemato!rapher& %rin ar,e# is well reco!ni?ed for his cinemato!raph# wor+

with Dational 'eo!raphic& to include %xplorer& ;ltimate %xplorer and 1hannel*

$sia& as well as P. %rin has esta-lished himself as a documentar# lmma+er

with a uni>ue and creati,e ,ision. e shot two award*winnin! P

documentaries& arold itchcoc+: 7ife in 7i!ht and Ramadhan in Indonesia&

each won the co,eted 'olden 1ine %a!le $ward. $s Producer /

1inemato!rapher / %ditor for Dational 'eo!raphic %xplorer& %rin too+ his wor+

from start to nish lmin! the re-oats of Genice in Genice urnin!= chasin!

cheetahs in otswana and Dami-ia in 1heetah 1hase= and lmin! ti!ers from

the -ac+ of an elephant in India in Ti!er"s %#e. $s a 1inemato!rapher whose at

home scourin! )un!les and islands in eli?e 8na+e ran!lers * oa %pisode9 to

followin! sna+es or tre++in! deep into oli,ia"s adidii rain forest 8aididi9& %rin

was a welcome addition to the Quest for Paititi crew.

Proet Partii"ants

Pro)ect partner& Jean*1hristophe Ganderhae!en is an attorne# from el!ium

who is co*founder there of the 1entro %uropeo de Informacion # Promocion

para $merica 7atina 81%IP$79. r. Ganderhae!en is a lon!*time student of

Incan and $ndean histor# and was instrumental in the ac>uisition of and

anal#sis of satellite photo!raph# of the exploration ?ones. e is a mem-er of

the $1%$.

cientic $d,isor& Professor (aniel 'ade is Professor %meritus of 'eo!raph# atthe ;ni,ersit# of Germont with a formida-le writin! histor# on the cultural&

historical !eo!raph#& and ecolo!# of the $ndes. $uthor of an and 1ulture in

the $ndes& Professor 'ade inte!rates the ima!ination of an expert !eo!rapher

with the research s+ills of a natural and cultural historian. e is also a mem-er

of the $1%$.ore a-out (aniel 'ade... $nd e,en more...

3ernando Deuenschwander& son of Peru"s foremost $ndean explorer& the now

deceased (r. 1arlos Deuenschwander of $re>uipa. 3ernando )oined the

exploration team on a couple of its )ourne#s and continues to -e a ,ital part of

the pro)ect"s mission. e is also a mem-er of the $1%$.

4. QUEST -OR P)ITITI -IE'D OURN)'

The 3I%7( JE;RD$7

The 2004 %xpedition Team was -uilt from the same experienced& well*s+illed&

and dedicated !roup of explorers who -e!an this )ourne# twent# #ears a!o&

and a few new faces. The success of this #ear"s expedition came from -lendin!


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the -est of traditional methods with useful& hi!h*end technolo!#. The crew

applied the wisdom of the team"s indi!enous hosts to tra,erse unfamiliar

territor# and relied on mule power to carr# a -ount# of supplies and

en,ironmental !ear o,er Peru"s perilous mountain terrain. 'P technolo!#

!uided their e,er# mo,e and documented the exact location of e,er#

disco,er#.

Producer& 'arrett tran! used an irdium satellite otorola 6B0B phone to report

important milestones alon! the wa#. hile there were da#s of thic+ened cloud

forest co,er that +ept si!nals from reachin! the ;..& the eld )ournal notes

were scri-ed each da#. 1hec+ out The 3ield Journal to see the mix of all these

elements come into pla# as #ou read throu!h the actual notes ta+en at the end

of a hard da#"s )ourne# 8ee The Quest9. The o-)ecti,es of this )ournal are to

allow #ou to share in this historical expedition and to experience dail# life in the

remote )un!les of the Pantiacolla re!ion of Peru. Aou"ll also !et personal insi!hts

rst hand from team mem-ers= the wisdom of the machi!uen!a !uides= and

the impendin! dan!ers that are an inherent part of this m#sterious )un!le.

The team came home with more than Incan disco,eries& the# -rou!ht -ac+ a

wealth of new data to include: plants and ora and plent# of natural si!htin!s=

'P coordinates which mean new areas will -e charted on Peru"s maps= and a

detailed account of the en,ironmental and ph#sical challen!es in the

Pantiacolla re!ion.

4.1. ENTR3 ONE une 56 20047 8IN PERU8

The expedition is in that critical in Peru sta!e where the future success and

safet# of the pro)ect depends on what we do and decide now. There are

lo!istical >uestions to -e answered: hat a-out the helicopter ow lon! will

the dri,e o,er rou!h )un!le roads astride the Rio $lto ;ru-am-a ta+e in

-rin!in! us to meet up with the helicopter (o we ha,e enou!h expedition

mem-ers to handle the increased load we ha,e -ecause of the lmma+ers

e>uipment 1an horses -e arran!ed for part of the return& to carr# some of the

load o,er the last mountain ran!es& with their intermina-le ascents& descents&

and more ascents& durin! that part of the expedition when we"re li+el# to -e the

most worn out hat is the -est point at the ,er# end of the most remote dirt

road that approaches the frontier that is accessi-le to wheeled ,ehicle& wherewe should arran!e for a ,ehicle to meet us when we emer!e from the

wilderness %tcetera and etcetera...

Ene aspect a-out which we ha,e no >uestions is that of the a-ilit# of the

expedition mem-ers. Paulino amani& one of the onl# three Peru,ian

International 3ellows of The %xplorers 1lu- in Dew Aor+& has -een a ma)or part

of our Paititi expeditions o,er the past 20 #ears& and is a master of all thin!s


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related to exploration& sur,i,al& and Incan histor# and lifewa#s. $nd 'o#o

Toledo has emer!ed from the hi!h*altitude )un!les of ameria& where he has

li,ed as a achi!uen!a**the forest*dwellin! Indians who are masters of their

domain**since 56uestions in the un+nown and little*+nown areas

-e#ond the $ndes...

4.2. ENTR3 T9O une :6 20047 8;E)RIN; UP 8

Toda#& there arri,ed a #oun! Quechua*spea+in! man& named $l-erto& to round

out the team as an apprentice to Paulino and 'o#o. I!nacio can"t lea,e his post

as Par+ 'uard for the Par>ue Dacional de anu& so $l-erto was pic+ed to ta+e

his place. e -ou!ht se,en machetes this afternoon**three for the expedition&

and four as !ifts for the achi!uen!a. The lon! machetes t 'o#o"s cuttin!

st#le& while the shorter suits -etter Paulino"s swin!. e also

-ou!ht tons of foodstu@s& from rice and a?ucar ru-ia 8-rown su!ar9 and

pac+a!ed soups to pasta and oatmeal and sardines& as well as anti-acterial

soap in the -otica 8pharmac#9 near-#. e loo+ forward to wrappin! up the

transport lo!istics on Tuesda#. 7et"s see what Tuesda# -rin!s= down here& in the

most ma!ical of cities& thin!s can fall to!ether >uic+l# once it is deemed read#

to happen...

4.,. ENTR3 THREE une


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those he +nows wa# out there& who ha,e horses and mules& for them to meet

us as close as possi-le to the exploration ?one. The radio station human

d#namo& a panish and Quechua*spea+in! woman named (olores& not onl#

too+ our messa!e& -ut -rou!ht us all into the studio with her as she read the

messa!e& and added her own +ind words on air a-out her forei!n !uests& the

cineastas norteamericanos 8$merican lmma+ers9& the Dorth $merican andPeru,ian explorers there with her. he was a perfect example of the !race and

luc+ that comes out of the -lue in this ma!ical world to those with !ood

intention and some darin!.

efore we meet the helicopter& we still ha,e our wor+ cut out for us in nishin!

preparations& and in !ettin! out: our street is totall# full of stalls of -eer and

food*sellers& and the street is -loc+ed to ,ehicle traFc& -ecause it is the

epicenter of the 1orpus 1risti 3esti,al. It will -e a challen!e pushin! our wa#

throu!h the crowds to tr# to meet our ,ehicle to the airport& loaded down with

!ear**than+s to %**as we will -e. Then& itKs o@ to the Pantiacolla Plateau...

4.>. ENTR3 -I?E une 106 20047 8E@A)RBIN;8

$n earl# call came from elur this mornin! while the team was ta+in!

-rea+fast and -efore the# +new it& the sound of the helicopter -u??in! 1usco

was heard o,erhead. ith a rush& all mo,ed to !ather their -elon!in!s.

1inemato!rapher& %rin ar,e# !ra--ed his di!ital camera to !ra- some foota!e

of this lar!e -ird o,erhead* the same one that would ta+e them deep into the

Painticolla re!ion within the hour. Paulino hurried to !ather last minute food

supplies& and %,ie& a local& made arran!ements with the police to escort the

team throu!h the cit#& since the 3esti,al of 1orpus 1hristi was still underwa#.

The team -id farewell to onica (ermen)ian whose assistance with

ne!otiations with elur were priceless. Pleased to ma+e it e@ortlessl# throu!h

the airport& the# found an old friend waitin! for them on the tarmac* their

copilot from the 5666 expedition& 1arlos Reate!ui& was to -e their pilot on this

expedition. The team ew o,er the Incan ruins of Tam-ocancha and the 7a!o

de De!ro. opin! to stop to document the sites& conditions were too cloud# and

hi!h winds would ma+e landin! the helicopter in this area too dan!erous. En to

north of the 7a!o de $n!el& an unmapped area until the last expedition 856669&

and the -e!innin!s of this one.

7andin! was precarious as the# swiftl# unloaded e>uipment& watchin! thewheel of the helicopter -e!in to sin+ in the soft terrain. The wind was

thunderous and compounded -# the whirlin! propellors o,erhead. 're!

reported a sense of calm and serenit# once the helicopter left. $ll -ecame so

peaceful and calm.

Paulino& Ro-erto& 'o#o and %rin ne!otiated a diFcult clim- to scope out a -ase

camp. The team settled south/southeast of 7a!o de $n!el where the# will -e!in


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their exploration and documentation of ruins and a ca,e with trian!ular

monoliths to which the team wants to return.

eather in the L0"s this e,enin!& the# report and all are donnin! % eece

wear and are una@ected -# the temperature. Paulino and 'o#o prepare a soup

for dinner. The horses should arri,e in a few da#s to carr# them further and

deeper in the )un!le.

4.5. ENTR3 SIX une 116 20047 8-IRST STEPS 8

Toda#& the expedition team clim-ed near 7a!o de $n!el in areas the#

approached in 5666& -ut had to wait until this trip to complete. Ence the#

reached the la+e& the rain came in force& so the# sou!ht refu!e in a ca,e with a

trian!ular*shaped entrance& a retainin! wall outside and a stoned roof. Ence

the elements su-sided the# clim-ed a-o,e the la+e to an Incan platform used

for adoration of the sun comin! from the east and the worship of the

Panchamama& the other %arth. The ascent was diFcult and throu!hout the

da#& the# were ascendin! and descendin! throu!hout the da# until the# were

wa# a-o,e the ta-le land at the Plateau of Topora+e* where the# could !et a

,iew and strate!# of where to head next. 'uided -# Paulino and 'o#o& the#

returned to -ase camp where $l-erto had lunch of a soup made with rice&

potatoes& carrots and a chic+en stoc+. It was B:L0P. Thou!h the showers were

cold rain& e,er#one reported to -e comforta-le and well protected *indi@erent

to these climate chan!es.

4.:. ENTR3 SE?EN une 216 20047 8REPORT8

(a# 54

1ontact -# satellite phone ended on June 50th& hence our last entr# of

aturda#& June 55th reects the team"s arri,al to the 7a!o de $n!el& the

-e!innin! of their expedition into the deeper& northern $ndes. It was exactl# <

da#s later that we recei,ed a -ro+en messa!e from Producer& 'arrett tran!

that the team had tre++ed two da#s o@ course to reach a remote ,illa!e* )ust to

re!ain contact with the outside world and let us +now all was well and the team

was returnin! to the )un!le for L more da#s. e related that not e,en the

emer!enc# -ac+*up s#stem was a,aila-le to them. e found out months

-efore the expedition was underwa#& that ,ast cloud and )un!le ,e!etation

render satellite ima!er# useless& until there is a clearin! and the timin! of thesatellite"s passin! o,er is in tandem with this. Ene can onl# !uess at this point

that it was this reason that +ept their si!nal from reachin! us.

'arrett reached us a!ain #esterda# from outside 1usco. e mentioned that

durin! the down time& the team followed ,ast tracts of unexplored areas&

ndin! ruins upon ruins alon! the wa#. The# tra,elled on foot with a train of

pac+ mules carr#in! supplies and !ear. Reachin! nei!h-orin! rid!es was lon!&


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tirin! and arduous -ut was necessar# to mo,e forward and to determine&

,isuall#& a direction 8 e#ein! how steep the ascent/descent 9 a!ainst the rou!h

s+etch map that had -een fashioned from the results of the 5666 expedition.

;n>uestiona-l#& we can sa# that locatin! ruins in such areas is limited to

!round exploration. eticulous notes of each da# were +ept -# 're!

(e#ermen)ian and we are ea!er to post these as soon as we recei,e them.

4.uite smoothl# up unitl this

point. $s we sat around the campre that e,enin!* not +nowin! what to thin+*

we all -e!an to ima!ine di@erent scenarios. as there some worldwide

emer!enc# disruptin! e,en the satellites& that we& in our total isolation& were

unaware of hat would those at home thin+& expectin! our calls& andrecei,in! nothin! e were worried a-out those who would -e worr#in! a-out

us.

$nd& -ac+ to the immediate circumstance& what a-out the horses

ithout them we were totall# -o!!ed down& with more e>uipment than we

could carr# oursel,es without ma+in! super*la-orious dou-le trips to carr#

thin!s from one point to the other& and then return for the rest of it. $nd so&

aturda# mornin!& 'o#o and Paulino had headed o@ toward the west and

southwest& to tr# and reconnoiter with some ,a>ueros 8cow-o#s9 who would

ha,e horses or mules to rent.

The weather had -een -ad for two da#s& lots of cold rain. In the afternoon&

howe,er& 're! decided to clim- up and cut a path throu!h the cloud forest that

lled a poc+et -etween two pea+s& formin! a pass hi!h a-o,e us. e almost

reached the crest which would la# )ust after the cloud forest& -ut decided to

turn -ac+ at that point to a,oid -ein! cau!ht up there -# dar+ness.

4.=. ENTR3 NINE une 1,6 20047 8SCOUTIN;8

unda# was an intense da# of scoutin!& loo+in! for e,idences for Inca trails

that would connect 7a!o de $n!el with ;ltimo Punto* an area Paulino had

-ecome familiar throu!h anal#?in! the direction of the Inca Road of tone

com-ined with information !athered -# local word of mouth. ome of the team&

'arrett& %rin& 're! and $l-erto decided to clim- up throu!h the -os>ue& hopin!

to nd more deniti,e e,idence of an Incan trail at the crest. hen the#

emer!ed from the forest"s shade& the# found a +nife*ed!e rid!e& with poor

,isi-ilit# due to the inclement weather conditions. 're! and $l-erto clim-ed

hi!her& up a near-# spire& to !et an o,er,iew of the area& -ut all the# could see


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was !re#**mist co,ered e,er#thin! e,er#where. Reali?in! ni!htfall was close at

hand& the team had planned to attempt another loo+ from this area the next

da#& howe,er the attempt would -e later thwarted -# the arri,al of Paulino and

'o#o with the announcement of the mules that would follow soon thereafter.

The return to -ase camp too+ some time as the# decided to cut all the wa#

around to the next pass -etween the mountains& with $l-erto wieldin! themachete& and all pushin! throu!h thic+ multiple la#ers of moss& ,ines& and

other ,e!etation& formin! a clin!# soft co,erin! that held them -ac+& -ut the

outer protecti,e rain!ear was a-le to +eep them dr#. 3inall# the# emer!ed at

the top& where the pass was. The# continued on o,er the top& to the other side&

to descend throu!h the more alpine settin! and down throu!h the deep

en,elopin! mud -elow and arri,in! a!ain at camp. The team went to -ed ,er#

earl#& to escape the extreme cold in the comfort of a sleepin! -a! inside a

secure tent.

4.10.ENTR3 TEN une 146 20047 8)'ONE8

Predawn was lled -# a shared preoccupation* the team was cau!ht in an

unexpected and total isolation. The possi-ilit# of not ac>uirin! pac+ animals&

which were ,ital to the expedition"s mo,ement& was compounded -# the

a-sence of Paulino and 'o#o. Time was passin! and all were ea!er to ad,ance.

$nd then the mornin! -rou!ht unexpected and welcomed !ood weather: the

sunM # earl# afternoon& another miracle: 'o#o and Paulino appearedM The#

related how the# had !one all the wa# to acramento in the ,alle# of the Rio

apacho& a distance of -i-lical proportions. $nd& the# announced& mules& and

arrierros& mile dri,ers& would -e arri,in! soon. $nd& sure enou!h& )ust -efore

the last ic+ers of the $ndean sun sun+ -elow the pea+s& two mules and three

men arri,ed. The mules" owner sta#ed in camp that ni!ht& as the other two

campesinos went to sleep in a near-# lonel# ric+et# ca-in. The team was

crowded& with se,en men in two tents& -ut that was ne. The expedition was on

its wa# a!ain.

4.11.ENTR3 E'E?EN une 1>6 20047 8'O)DED8

The team -ro+e camp and headed o@ to the west and northwest. %,en with the

two mules& the# had more e>uipment than the# could reall# carr#& and so

Paulino lashed two full -ac+pac+s to!ether and hoisted them onto his -ac+. The

loads on the mules had to -e fre>uentl# rearran!ed. 1au!ht in -ri!ht sunli!ht

meant remo,in! la#ers to a,oid the heat of an $ndean mid*da#. 3inall# the#

found themsel,es within si!ht of the hi!hest pea+ -efore them& The# -e!an to

clim-& and at a spot )ust -elow the pea+& the# stopped to rest and share coca

leaf.

Paulino pointed out a stran!e shape -eside them. ith camera in hand&

shootin! as the la#ers of moss and plants were peeled awa#& the production


12/26

team 8'arrett and %rin9 captured a rarel# seen e,ent* the un,eilin! of a lar!e

Incan platform. It stood three feet hi!h& with well t to!ether stones enclosin! a

center of tapped earth. The platform was 42 feet lon! and 52 feet wide& and

had stone steps leadin! to it on one side& from the !round. It had o-,iousl#

-een of !reat ceremonial si!nicance& with those steps& the ne t of the

stones& and its location )ust -efore the pea+. 're! and his team noted thathere& now& was an Incan structure e,en further north than those platforms and

Incan retainin! walls that he had documented at the 7a!o de $n!el. The#

lmed and photo!raphed and measured the site& loo+in! forward with

anticipation to what we would nd at the pea+& at the ;ltimate Point.

4.12.ENTR3 T9E'?E une 156 20047 8UP8

e renewed our clim-. $Nuents of the Rio Aa,ero& which ows west to the $lto

;ru-am-a& were to our left= while tri-utaries of the Rio Timpia& which ows

directl# north then ma+es a !reat arc toward the west& enterin! the same $lto

;ru-am-a man# man# miles awa#& north of the entr# of the Aa,ero& wereowin! awa# to our ri!ht. ehind us& to the south& were ,arious snow pea+s

piercin! the clouds a-o,e the hori?on. e pushed our wa# up& up to the

northwest& tra,ersin! the rid!e. It rose precipitousl#& then le,eled out onto a

narrow pea+. The pea+ was topped -# another Incan platform& the stran!est we

had e,er seen& as it was shaped li+e a pointed -ullet& with ,e sides& and the

point facin! directl# northeast& in the direction of the Incan trail that we +new**

from our expedition in 5666**runs alon! the )un!led hillsides that o,erloo+ the

Timpia from the west. This was the platform of platforms& from its commandin!

location. It commanded a ,iew of all around it& all the ri,er s#stems& and the

unexplored ran!es that continued on in mist# wa,e after wa,e to the north.

Ene wall was L0 feet lon!& with the opposite wall -ein! 2C feet& while the

structure was 5< feet wide= the -ulletKs as#mmetrical point had one side that

was 5B feet lon! and another of 24 feet. Eur altitude was almost 52&000 feet

a-o,e sea le,el. e lmed and photo!raphed and pondered the si!nicance of

this Incan ,esti!e& furthest of an# e,er found directl# to the north of 1usco&

here at the outer ed!e of the Incan world. e pondered& as well our next

mo,e...

4.1,.ENTR3 THIRTEEN une 1:6 20047 8EXH)USTED8

En Thursda#& 5C June& Paulino left us in the mornin! to tra,el as fast as he

could to Que-rada& the nearest town& in the ,alle# of the Rio Aanatile& where he

would -e a-le to nd a pu-lic phone and ma+e a call to 1usco to let our ,ehicle

+now where and when to come meet us. It would -e a lon! trip& down to the

ri,er& and then all the wa# o,er a mountain ran!e. e +new he was the one

team mem-er who was most a-le to do it& thou!h. This was his territor#. 7ater

that same da# the rest of us headed o@ as soon as fresh mules arri,ed at ario

Ks chacra. e loaded them up& three of them: it was a !ood thin! we had the


13/26

extra mule now& as we no lon!er had PaulinoKs **two -ac+pac+**stren!th and

endurance with us.

e made a steep descent to a tri-utar# of the Rio apacho& which we crossed

-# wa# of a small ric+et# swa#in! -rid!e& and then we crossed the apacho

itself -# wa# of a lar!e ric+et# swa#in! -rid!e. e then -e!an a descent ,ia

tortuous mountain trails& followin! the mules& that ne,er let up that whole da#&

into the ran!e +nown as the 1ordillera de 7ares*7acco. The $ndean sun cut

throu!h the thin air to sap our stren!th and mo,e us toward deh#dration. %,en

the nearl# super*human 'o#o was stru!!lin! under his hea,# load& ha,in!

contracted some +ind of illness. 3inall#& )ust after dar+& we arri,ed at a

campesino settlement of two ad)oined huts& and a patio of stone& where we

were !raciousl# welcomed to ma+e camp. There were !iant coc+roaches

aplent#& -ut for those of us who were dead*tired& it was a picture of luxur#. The

place was called ella,ista.

The next mornin!"s spectacular nd is e,en more testimon# to the diFcult# of explorin! for ruins in this terrain* while answerin! a call of nature& 're! noticed

that there was a rectan!ular form co,ered in ,e!etation& near-#. ;pon further

o-ser,ation& he reali?ed that it was an Incan ruin& the stone walls of what had

-een a moderatel# si?ed ha-itation. The stonewor+ indicated that it was of

rustic Incan st#le. ac+ at ella,ista& the local fol+ told us of another ruina

that la# a-o,e us on the forested hillside. e clim-ed up& throu!h some dense

under-rush& and found an a-o,e*!round tom-& a chullpa& that was the nest

preser,ed such specimen that we had e,er seen. It was exactl# li+e the

1hullpas de Dinamar+a& on the road to Paucartam-o& far to the southeast&

,esti!es of the 7upaca culture that reached all the wa# there from its heartland

around 7a+e Titicaca. The tom- was of well*tted eldstone& and it was circular&

with a ,er# low entrance*openin!& and with a roof formed -# o,erlappin!

stones placed around one lintel stone that spanned the diameter. There was

nothin! inside the tom-& -ut it was important testimon# to how these remote&

now*forested areas were intensel# ha-itated -# not onl# the Incas -ut their

predecesors.

e mo,ed on& to resume our clim- o,er the 1ordillera. The ascent was so

constant& at an altitude a!ain approachin! 52&000 feet& that the mules had to

-e constantl# !oaded and threatened with !utteral shouts of Oula cara)oM for

them to +eep !oin!. Eur own loads -ecame hea,ier and hea,ier& as well. $taround 4 P.. a welcome sound !reeted us* a shout from Paulino& who had

arri,ed at the destination of Que-rada. e had made his call and arran!ements

and then headed -ac+ toward us. ith his animo and help& we were a-le to

force oursel,es up the nal rise -efore emer!in! at $-ra ella,ista& a point at

which the end of a dirt road for truc+s sna+ed its wa# into the forested

hi!hland& twistin! and turnin! all the wa# from Que-rada. e -ade farewell

ario and !ladl# made the -one*sha+in! three*hour ride to Que-rada.


14/26

ore of the Paititi stor# would -e ahead of us the next da#s...

4.14.ENTR3 -OURTEEN une 1


15/26


16/26

Paititi in searh of anient ruins east of the an&es.

3ollowin! ancient Incan trails o@ the map to the easternmost ed!e of the

$ndean worldS

ince our rst expedition to the sel,a alta**the hi!h altitude )un!les**to the

northeast of 1usco in southeast Peru& we ha,e -een each #ear closer to sol,in!the centuries*old pu??le as to the existence& form& and location of P$ITITI&

le!endar# site that remains hidden somewhere east of the $ndes.

The Paititi E!"e&itions

Eur !oal has -een to in,esti!ate the furthest reaches of the Incas -e#ond the

Peru,ian hi!hlands& toward the $ma?on -asin& each #ear !oin! further into

un+nown territor#.

u#% 1=


17/26

remains of an ancient Incan ha-itation in the form of ruinas rWsticas& walls&

+ilns& artifacts of tum-a!a 8an allo# of copper and !old9& ceramics& low terraces&

and wild coca trees. 8this was the site to which the achi!uen!a had led the

helicopter*-orne er-ert and Dicole 1arta!ena in 56C6.9 e also explored the

site found directl# atop 'o#o"s 1ha+uapn!u= this was& we came to reali?e& the

same hilltop site that had -een found and sac+ed four #ears -efore -# thePeru,ian 'eneral %ssen-an!er& who had -een accompanied -# the in,ererate

Paititi*see+er& Padre Juan 1arlos Polentini ester.

u#%)u(ust 1=6 E!"e&ition to @a*eria

Participants:

**7ea,in! from 1usco** 1us>ueo& 1Usar edina 8nephew of 56


18/26

**7ea,in! 3rom 1usco** 1Usar edina& 1us>ueo& Renato edina 81Usar

edinaKs -rother9& Dorth $merican author& (a,id . 1hildress& 're!or#

(e#ermen)ian

**7ea,in! from Pu+#opata& o,erloo+in! the RVo Paucartam-o** 'a,ino Toledo

**7ea,in! from 1ha+upan!u in ameria** 'o#o Toledo& achi!uen!a&Raimundo

e further explored ,arious Incan sites in ameria& includin! that of el horno&

the Yiln& and then headed southeast toward the le!endar# twin pea+ed

massif of $pu 1atinti. The !oin! was lon! and tou!h& with the -url# 'o#o

himself !ettin! sic+ on our expedition ener!# -ars& -ut e,entuall# we found

oursel,es clim-in! the )un!led hillside of the tropical mountain. oon& howe,er&

we reali?ed that we had to turn -ac+& at 'o#oKs stron! su!!estion: it appeared

that conditions were -ecomin! too diFcult& with poisonous sap on trees&

supplies low 8from too man# -i! appetites too earl# on in the expedition9& and

lar!e holes in the mats of ,e!etation 8these sprin!# mats ha,in! -een formed

-# the decades of leaf# de-ris that had fallen onto the -ranches and tops of

trees& with the trun+s of these trees sna+in! their wa# up the precipitous

hillside such that we were actuall# wal+in! alon! the tops of trees that had

their trun+s and roots further down the hillside -elow us9.

e returned to 'o#o"s 1ha+upan!u& ndin! ,arious archaeolo!ical remains&

includin! rou!h semicircular walls& some up to ei!ht feet in hei!ht& in the areas

immediatel# -elow the RVo 1horitia& an auent of the ameria that pro,ides

water for 'o#oKs chacra.

ith time to +ill -efore our return to the hi!hlands**where we would& accordin!

to pre,ious arran!ement& meet a campesino ac>uaintance with our pac+

horses at a predetermined date a couple of wee+s in the future**I spent much

time accompan#in! 'o#o and 'a,ino and the achi!uen!a on huntin! trips&

where I !raduall# came to reali?e that the most primar# reason for 'o#oKs

insistence upon turnin! -ac+ had -een interpersonal/intercultural friction

-etween the Peru,ian countr# fol+ and the cit# fol+ within our !roup. I proposed

that after I return to 1usco I attain a !ood >uantit# of fresh supplies and then

we ma+e another attempt upon $pu 1atinti. 'o#o a!reed.

u#%)u(ust 1=


19/26

ascent of the )un!le*co,ered mountain. The massif was de,oid of streams& and

so we su@ered !reatl# from thirst& althou!h surrounded -# exu-erant )un!le

,e!etation: to !et an# moisture in us at all we had to put out sheets of plastic

to collect hailstones& cut into -am-oo to extract a -itter li>uid& and s>uee?e a

!ritt# tric+le of water directl# into our mouths from )un!le moss. $nd& una-le to

coo+ our usual soups& we su-sisted primaril# on popcorn. e nall# did reachthe hi!hest of its twin pea+s. There were no si!ns of past ha-itation an#where

on $pu 1atinti. I wanted to explore the second hi!hest pea+& as well& that la#

across a saddle in the middle of the massif& )ust to -e a-solutel# sure= #et&

none of m# companions wished to !o& since it appeared that it would -e a

wasted e@ort since it appeared the same as what we had alread# reached& and

the Incas would certainl# ha,e left remains on the hi!hest pea+ if the# were to

ha,e left them an#where.

e camped on the pea+ for one ni!ht& which !ot >uite cold at 50&500 feet

altitude& facin! the unimpeded winds and mist e,er -lowin! from the east. e

nall# were a-le to attain enou!h water for coo+in! from s>uee?in! it from thethic+ -lan+et of moss that co,ered the saddle -etween the two pea+s. The next

mornin! we were !reeted -# a si!ht a+in to that of Tres 1ruces& with the sun

po+in! up throu!h the clouds to our east& llin! the s+# with its #ellow li!ht& we

-ein! at the hi!hest point -etween here and the $tlantic thousands of miles

awa#.

efore lea,in! the pea+& $n!el related to 'o#o how this place reminded him of

a hi!h area called Topora+e& throu!h which he and his achi!uen!a -rethren

had passed on their i!ht from the near sla,er# that the# had endured alon!

the RVo Aa,ero nearl# 2B #ears -efore= he related their ha,in! seen casas de los

In+as & and a mumm# encased in stone& there. e spo+e as well of a stran!el#

shaped la+e& at a hi!h cold place where the# almost died.

Returnin! toward 1ha+upan!u& approachin! the RVo Diatene& we unco,ered

from )un!le ,e!etation an Incan wall that was& althou!h rustic& >uite well*

made from ti!htl# t stones.e determined that our next )ourne# would -e to

reach this Topora+e.

Noe*$er 1=


20/26

Eur !oal this #ear was to in,esti!ate $n!elKs report of three #ears -efore

concernin! the Incan houses and mumm# encased in stone at a plateau

called Topora+e. Ence a!ain we followed the road of stone alon! the fri!id

1ordillera de Paucartam-o& then made camp at an artVn as we waited for the

weather to clear. e were hit with hailstorms and intense cold& #et e,entuall#

we left in spite of the -ad weather. e hid the supplies that we would not -ea-le to carr#**in that we had had pac+ horses for our tra,erse of the alturas**5B

minutes down into the thic+ ,e!etation of the %#e-row of the Jun!le& and&

then down the monte -elow an artVn we went& cuttin! our usual route to

ameria and 1ha+upan!u.

;pon reachin! 1ha+upan!u& the hill in ameria upon which 'o#o"s chacra had

-een& we found oursel,es at a di@erent settlement& one that we had ne,er

-efore seen& and that was relati,el# newl# -uilt& -ut deserted. Paulino went on

alone to see+ 'o#o and the achis further downstream& down the RVo ameria&

while 'a,ino and I !or!ed upon a cache of -ananas found in one of the huts.

$fter a time& Paulino returned with 'o#o and $n!el& and we learned that theachis had all mo,ed temporaril# downri,er to escape a local disease that

aNicted their #uca and plXtano& two food crops without which a achi!uen!a

cannot -e happ#.

'o#o and $n!el -e!an the lon! clim- up toward an artVn in the hi!hlands&

where the rest of us had hidden the extra supplies& in order to retrie,e some.

eanwhile Paulino& 'a,ino& and I headed east& down the ameria& and past the

area we had explored in 56


21/26

e came out at the RVo ameria& at a spot further upstream than I had e,er

pre,iousl# -een. ;p the ameria we went& o,er the course of the next two

da#s& feastin! on mon+e# the rst ni!ht and the next mornin!. Then up

numerous waterfalls we clim-ed& to reach the ameriaKs headwaters& where it

-ecame a mere narrow and shallow stream. e then turned to the steep

hillside to our left& and clim-ed throu!h the mud of the monte to nall# emer!eat the -e!innin!s of the Plateau of Topora+e.

(a#s later we came to -road& low*walled structures& perfectl# rectan!ular in

shape& at an area at which numerous Incan roads seemed to con,er!e. There

were s+eletal remains in shallow ca,es& and platforms for Incan sun worship. It

appeared that the structures had -een -arrac+s& with one lone trail headin! o@

to the north& toward the un+nown Plateau of Pantiacolla. This had -een a far

outpost of the Inca& and it would -e our furthest point reached as well. at least

for a few #ears. e de-ated followin! the lone trail that headed o@& -ut the fact

that we had alread# -een so lon! on the trail& with dwindlin! supplies&

necessitated our turnin! -ac+. To follow that trail onto the un+nown Pantiacollawould ha,e to wait.

oon after -e!innin! the tre+ -ac+& we were cau!ht -# a sudden storm with

intense winds& sleet and hail& and sheets of rain. It lasted for hours& and durin!

this time $n!el& unaccustomed to the altitude of the plateaus o,erloo+in! the

)un!les& -ecame disoriented= he soon found himself separated from us and lost.

ith the storm threatenin! us all with h#pothermia& it fell to 'o#o to head -ac+

in the direction of our last camp& to loo+ for $n!el. In the late afternoon& )ust as

the storm -ro+e and a -ri!ht #ellow sunset lled the s+#& 'o#o and $n!el

appeared at the top of a hill& slowl# -ut surel# approachin! us. The relief we felt

warranted a spontaneous shootin! of a .22 into the air.

Eur return from that point was made not -# returnin! to ameria& -ut& rather&

after -iddin! !ood-#e to 'o#o and $n!el**who would return to their lower

territor# to the southeast**-# our headin! due southwest& down a ridiculousl#

steep& hours*lon! mule trail of unremittin! mud. e passed an extensi,e patch

of su-*tropical forest co,ered with ,arious stone ruins ,er# a+in to those of

ameria& these -ein! +nown as 7as Ruinas de iraores. $nd e,entuall# we

crossed the RVo Aa,ero 8as the more northern extension of the RVo

Paucartam-o/apacho is called9& clim-ed o,er the fri!id 1ordillera de 7ares*

7acco& then descended to the ,alle# of the RVo Aanatile and the town of Que-rada onda& where we were a-le to attain passa!e -ac+ to 1usco in the

-ac+ of a crea+# old frei!ht truc+.

Oto$er 1==16 E!"e&ition to the Petro(#%"hs of Pusharo

Participants:


22/26

**7ea,in! from 1usco** 1us>ueo owner/operator of outhern 1ross

$d,entures& u!o Paullo $lfaro& Paulino amani& 're!or# (e#ermen)ian

**7ea,in! from $tala#a& astride the RVo $lto adre de (ios** 1us>ueo&

%ntrepreneur& and Jun!le 'uide& antia!o AX-ar 1al,o& %mplo#ee of Par>ue

Dacional de anu& 1elso

**7ea,in! from the achi!uen!a Dati,e 1ommunit#& Palatoa Tepa& alon!& the

RVo Palatoa**

achi!uen!a& $le)andro

**7ea,in! from a temporar# achi!uen!a encampment further up the RVo.

Palatoa. achi!uen!a man and woman& Pancho and Josena

3rom 1usco& we followed the traditional route to the sel,as of the $maruma#u&

the )un!les of Q"osipata& !oin! throu!h Paucartam-o& then clim-in! o,er the

puna and plun!in! down throu!h -os>ue de nu-es& down to emer!e onto thesu-*tropical plains around Patria& and the tropical lowland llanura of Pilcopata.

The distincti,e landmar+ of the 1ordillera de Paucartam-o& the m#sterious and

)a!!ed*pea+ed $pu 1aa!ua#& was seen o@ to our northwest. 8e were

headin! for the anu area& rather than to our usual tar!et& that of the

1ordillera and Topora+e and the camino de piedra ** the road of stone that

leads into the un+nown Pantiacolla ** -ecause of the hei!htenin! of political

pro-lems in the Pro,incia de 1alca throu!h which we would ha,e had to pass=

access to the lower )un!les of anu would ta+e us throu!h no ris+# territor#.9

e came to the ,illa!e of $tala#a& astride the RVo adre de (ios& the $maru

a#u& the erpent Ri,er of Incan times& where we were met -# antia!o AX-ar. Then to the ,illa!e of al,aciZn& where there was a last !o,ernment

outpost& where we attained a permit to enter the restricted archaeolo!ical ?one

of the anu. Then& -ac+ at $tala#a& where u!o Paullo and the ,ehicle would

await us& as the rest -oarded a motori?ed canoe conducted -# 'usta,o

oscoso and his wife arianna ,an Glaardin!en de oscoso& and proceeded

down the adre de (ios& then turned to the northwest& up the RVo Palatoa. $t

the achi!uen!a Dati,e 1ommunit# of Palotoa Tepa we -e!an our tra,erse on

foot& led -# the achi!uen!a $le)andro. e au!mented our supplies -#

!or!in! oursel,es on -ananas that achi!uen!a peoples had cached under

piles of lea,es astride the ri,er. e came to a temporar# achi!uen!a shin!encampment& -ut& after some interaction& we continued on up the Palotoa& onl#

to -e o,erta+en and )oined -# a achi couple& Pancho and Josena& from

the encampment we had )ust left. The# later !uided us further alon! the ri,er&

the m#sterious and mist# ran!e of )un!le mountains& the 1ordillera de

Pantiacolla& e,er o@ to our north& until we came to the enormous roc+ face

upon which is to -e found the Petro!l#phs of Pusharo.


23/26

The car,in!s on this enormous roc+ face are >uite uni>ue. ost impressi,e are

the deepl# incised& dou-le -ordered heart*shaped faces. ome !l#phs are pan*

$ma?onian in st#le& while others are unclassia-le. The# co,er a roc+ face&

stretchin! for a-out CB feet alon! the roc+& up to a hei!ht of nine feet. The

achi!uen!a with us admitted to ha,in! a-solutel# no +nowled!e as to the

!l#phs" meanin! or ori!in**the car,in!s had simpl# alwa#s -een there.

$fter photo!raphin! and lmin! e,er# s>uare foot of the site& antia!o AX-ar**

who had come here pre,iousl# -# helicopter with (r. 1arlos Deuenschwander**

directed us to a roc+ led!e in -ac+ of and a-o,e the main site. ere we saw a

series of stran!e cuneiform*li+e lines car,ed into the roc+& in a manner and

st#le >uite unli+e an# of the !l#phs -elow.

$fter a time& we -e!an our return& ,isitin! other more su-stantial achi!uen!a

chacras& includin! that of one achi !entleman who seemed to +now some

delicate secrets a-out the disappearance almost 20 #ears -efore of the o-

Dichols part# herea-outs. 7ater& at the achi!uen!a shin! encampment& wewere cau!ht -# a delu!e that -e!an the rain# season in earnest. e could not

cross the swollen and tur-ulent ri,er on foot. owe,er& without e,en -ein!

as+ed& our !racious achi!uen!a hosts proceeded to -uild us a su-stantial

-alsa wood raft& and& when we nall# did lea,e& we made swift pro!ress

downstream to the Dati,e 1ommunit#& then in motori?ed canoe to $tala#a& and

then in u!o Paullo"s ,ehicle to 1usco.

Se"te*$erOto$er 1==,6 E!"e&ition $e%on& To"ora+e6 onto the

@eseta &e Pantiao##a

Participants:

**7ea,in! from 1usco** Paulino amani& 're!or# (e#ermen)ian

**7ea,in! from [ona de 7acco& 7ocal cattleman& 'erman 1ondori endo?a

The political pro-lems in the hi!hlands ha,in! -een suFcientl# lessened& we

headed -ac+ toward Topora+e& our !oal -ein! that of followin! that lone trail

from there onto the eseta de Pantiacolla. This time we tra,eled in ,ehicle

throu!h 1alca& and then down the ,alle# of the RVo Aanatile from $mparaes to

Que-rada onda& to the point at the end of a rou!her dirt road extension from

Que-rada to Punto 1arretera& where we were met -# campesinos with

pac+horses for our e>uipment.

e headed throu!h the su-*tropical re!ions of 7acco& then up that seemin!l#

unendin! and mudd# mule trail& to the eseta de Topora+e. oon thereafter we

left& to nall# -e!in followin! that lone trail& the continuation of the camino de

piedra that -e!ins wa# down toward Paucartam-o& on our wa# toward the

Plateau of Pantiacolla.


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The Pantiacolla o@ered us dail# storms with hea,# cold rains that caused -rand

new streams and ri,ulets to ow o,er the rollin! tall !rasslands. e followed

the trail to a point at which it dipped into thic+ cloud forest& in the direction of

the RVo TimpVa& as we fre>uentl# left the trail**-ecause the accumulation of

centuries of fallen trun+s and other de-ris from landslides and other ra,a!es of

time had made it impassa-le**to descend to the headwaters of the TimpVa&-elow& to wade our wa# downstream. efore too lon!& howe,er& we reali?ed

that it was fruitless& that we were slowl# wendin! our wa# down a su@ocatin!l#

enclosed and dar+ ,alle#& at a turtleKs pace that was !ettin! us nowhere. e

decided to turn -ac+& in the reali?ation that the onl# wa# to ma+e suFcientl#

rapid pro!ress to this point& and then further down this ,alle# to whate,er site

la# at the end of the trail that tra,ersed the hillside a-o,e the ri,er& would -e

to come here -# helicopter. That then& would -e our !oal for future expeditions.

)u(ustSe"te*$er 1==46 E!"e&ition to Ca##an(a

Participants:

**7ea,in! from 1usco** Paulino amani& 're!or# (e#ermen)ian& **7ea,in!

from Paro-am-a**

I!nacio amani 8PaulinoKs -rother9&

**7ea,in! from acienda 1allan!a** 7ocal #oun! campesino/settler& Juan

e had not -een a-le to attain the funds to allow us the ser,ices of a

helicopter& so we headed instead to the rain forests of 1allan!a& an aNuent of

the RVo PiiPii& that lies to the southeast of ameria. 1allan!a ts ,er# much

into ,arious of the Paititi le!ends& and so we would explore for ruins& as well asin,esti!ate for (r. 1arlos Deuenschwander his o-ser,ation& 20 #ears -efore& of

extensi,e terracin! on hillsides o,erloo+in! the area down the RVo 1allan!a&

!ettin! toward its conuence with the PiiPii.

e left the 1ordillera de Paucartam-o further south than had we -een headin!

to ameria& and descended to the RVo ihuas& which then -ecomes the

1allan!a. $t the lone structure in the 1allan!a ?one& the house of settler r.

Ru-Un ercado Ecampo& we set up -ase camp& from whence we were shown

,arious rou!h stone ruins therea-outs& as well as the particular su!ar cane

press that had -een used in manufacturin! the o,er*proof li>uor that had

-ecome famous throu!hout the -ac+ areas of the hi!hlands& from whence

came the !eneric term which is used in those remote areas to denote an# ,er#

stron! drin+: 1allan!a.

ith Juan accompan#in! us& we descended the 1allan!a to reach the point at

which it is )oined -# the RVo Aun!aria& where it**technicall#& althou!h not

popularl# +nown**then -ecomes the PiiPii. %xplorin! the hillsides a-o,e& we


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found a plethora of small -ut lon! terraces& which appeared to ha,e -een

reused& perhaps -# achi!uen!a& within the past B0 or so #ears. 1loser to the

RVo 1allan!a& we found small conical structures. uch of this had a pre*Inca

appearance 8lon! terraces& proximit# to the ri,er& conical structures that didnKt

appear to -e storehouses& etc.9. $fter ma+in! a -rief attempt to clim- the

tropical pea+ that rises a-o,e and awa# from the southern -an+ of the1allan!a& +nown as 7lactapata& the town a-o,e& we -e!an our return to

1usco.

)u(ust 1==>6 E!"e&ition to Ca##an(a6 )sent of '#ata"ata

Participants:

**7ea,in! from 1usco** Paulino amani& I!nacio amani& 're!or#

(e#ermen)ian

**7ea,in! from acienda 1allan!a& Juan

In 566B we returned to 1allan!a& and did reach the pea+ of 7lactapata& where

local le!end spo+e of there -ein! una i!lesia incaica& an Incan temple. e

found that& althou!h the -ase of the mountain was littered with rou!h stone

ruins that included water channels& the lon! rid!e at the pea+& which was

co,ered with a ma?e of extremel# dense -ushes& ,ines& stunted trees and fallen

lo!s& had nothin! at all to o@er in the wa# of ruinas.

1==56 E!"e&ition to 8P%ra*i&s of Parotoari8

Participants:

**7ea,in! from 1usco** Paulino amani& I!nacio amani& 3ernando

Deuenschwander& son of (r. 1arlos Deuenschwander& 1us>ueo& )un!le !uide&

(ante DWe? del Prado& 're!or# (e#ermen)ian

**7ea,in! from achi!uen!a Dati,e 1ommunit# of Palatoa Tepa alon!& the RVo

Palatoa**

achi!uen!a& Ro-erto& alon! with his wife& 'renci and infant dau!hter

Reina

till lac+in! funds for a helicopter with which to penetrate the eseta de

Pantiacolla& we headed o@ toward the )un!les of anu& to an area directl#southsoutheast of that of the Petro!l#phs of Pusharo& in order to see once and

for all whether the formations that appear so uniform and s#mmetrical on a

D$$ satellite photo!raph were in fact the P#ramids of Pantiacolla**otherwise

+nown as the (ots or the P#ramids of Paratoari**or natural features.

e descended the RVo $lto adre de (ios in motori?ed canoe& then wal+ed

o,erland**-ecause of ,er# low water le,el**to the achi!uen!a Dati,e


26/26

1ommunit# of Palotoa Tepa& where we attained the ser,ices of Ro-erto who

-rou!ht his wife and infant dau!hter alon! as well. e wal+ed up the Palotoa&

to the point at which we suspected that the ri,er that entered the Palotoa from

the southwest was the Aana a#u& or the RVo De!ro**and which was conrmed

as -ein! so -# our 'P and satellite photo we carried. e ascended the RVo

De!ro towards its headwaters& then clim-ed steepl# to then descend to thearea of the P#ramids. The area was amon! the most uncomforta-le weK,e

e,er encountered& with extremel# oppressi,e heat and insects& e,en lac+in!

an# at land for a decent campsite. Eur in,esti!ation led us to -elie,e that the

formations**which are in a distincti,e area called Parotoari -# the

achi!uen!a**are natural features. 3or our return we continued on in a loop&

descendin! throu!h and alon! the -an+s of the RVo Inchipiato& until we met&

once a!ain& with the $lto adre de (ios.

1===6 E!"e&ition to @eseta &e Pantiao##a6 Hea&aters of Ro Ti*"a

Participants:

**elicopter portion** 1us>ueo& owner*operator of anuad,entures& arco

Ro?as

3ilm Photo!rapher& from 7ima& Pedro Deira& 3ilm a+er& from 'erman#& and

expedition sponsor& ein? ,on atthe#& elicopter pilot& Pa-lo 7u>ue 3.&

elicopter co*pilot& 1arlos Reate!ui .& 1rewmem-ers& Pedro Ramos .& (a,id

Quintana& and one more

**elicopter and on foot** Paulino amani& I!nacio amani& 're!or#

(e#ermen)ian

Paititi Deyermenjian

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