?? | WINTER 2015 | diversions diversions | WINTER 2015 | ?? ?? | WINTER 2015 | diversions diversions | WINTER 2015 | ?? BASED IN LEOPARD SAFARIS’ TENTED CAMP, GILLIAN MCLAREN EXPLORES YALA NATIONAL PARK IN A QUEST TO SEE ASIAN SPECIES OF ANIMALS, WITH HIGH HOPES OF A GLIMPSE OF THE FAMED LEOPARDS, REPUTED TO BE AMONGST THE LARGEST IN THE WORLD. T here is a severe drought in Yala National Park in South East Sri Lanka. Even a gentle breeze stirs the dust, which coats the trees that have sparse canopies. Animals are under stress, their need for scarce water causing them to congregate at any remaining waterholes. As harsh as these conditions are for the animals, they are perfect for game viewing. “We need to be ready very early, then we will be one of the first safari vehicles into Yala”, Noel Rodrigo states authoritatively. He knows that I am a South African who has been on many safaris throughout Africa, but assures me that I will be enriched by my experience in Yala National Park, where there is the greatest variety of Asian species of game and birds in the country, many of which are endemic to Sri Lanka. “Recent population counts indicate that we have the most dense concentration of leopards in Asia, and indeed one of the best in the world, right here!” declares Noel triumphantly. I shower beneath the multitude of stars, in my canvas bathroom open at the top to a sliver of moon and branches of an Ironwood tree. After a hastily drunk cup of Ceylon Tea, served by smiling staff, I board the customised Toyota Land Cruiser. We bounce along rudimentary roads, where we are immediately rewarded for our dawn departure when we spot a usually- nocturnal Small Civet. As we enter Yala 1, Noel warns me that we will be traveling fairly fast for the first few kilometres, to reach the best waterhole. “Stop please” he commands our naturalist en route and we listen in silence to the alarm call of Spotted Deer. My pulse is racing and I feel inordinately excited that I may see one of the legendary Sri Lankan leopards, Panthera pardus kotiya, an endangered sub-species. As we edge forward, a leopard insouciantly strolls out of the scrub jungle into the road! He is a magnificent male and somewhat larger than the African leopard. I am entranced. He stands still and gazes at us with confidence, then flops down into the short grass. “As leopard is the apex predator here, they don’t really need to drag their prey up into trees like they do in Africa”, Noel informs me. “It is thought that this lack of competition from lions or hyenas is a factor that has enabled this sub-species to evolve to its larger size.” THE OWNER OF LEOPARD SAFARIS – AN UP MARKET CAMPING OUTFIT, FIFTEEN MINUTES DRIVE FROM YALA 1’S LESS CROWDED BACK ENTRANCE - IS PASSIONATE ABOUT CONSERVATION OF DIMINISHING WILD AREAS IN SRI LANKA. O n S afari in Sri Lanka O n S afari in Sri Lanka O n S afari in Sri Lanka By Gillian McLaren
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On Sri Lanka · I shower beneath the multitude of stars, ... legendary Sri Lankan leopards, ... CONSERVATION OF DIMINISHING WILD AREAS IN SRI LANKA. On
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SPECIES OF ANIMALS,WITH HIGH HOPES OF AGLIMPSE OF THE FAMED
LEOPARDS, REPUTED TO BEAMONGST THE LARGEST
IN THE WORLD.
There is a severedrought in YalaNational Park in
South East Sri Lanka. Evena gentle breeze stirs thedust, which coats the treesthat have sparse canopies.Animals are under stress, theirneed for scarce water causingthem to congregate at anyremaining waterholes. As harshas these conditions are for theanimals, they are perfect for gameviewing.
“We need to be ready very early,then we will be one of the first safarivehicles into Yala”, Noel Rodrigo statesauthoritatively.
He knows that I am a South African who hasbeen on many safaris throughout Africa, butassures me that I will be enriched by myexperience in Yala National Park, where there isthe greatest variety of Asian species of game andbirds in the country, many of which are endemic toSri Lanka. “Recent population counts indicate that wehave the most dense concentration of leopards in Asia,and indeed one of the best in the world, right here!”declares Noel triumphantly.
I shower beneath the multitude of stars, in my canvasbathroom open at the top to a sliver of moon and branchesof an Ironwood tree. After a hastily drunk cup of CeylonTea, served by smiling staff, I board the customised ToyotaLand Cruiser. We bounce along rudimentary roads, wherewe are immediately rewarded for our dawn departure whenwe spot a usually- nocturnal Small Civet.
As we enter Yala 1, Noel warns me that we will be travelingfairly fast for the first few kilometres, to reach the bestwaterhole. “Stop please” he commands our naturalist en routeand we listen in silence to the alarm call of Spotted Deer. My pulseis racing and I feel inordinately excited that I may see one of thelegendary Sri Lankan leopards, Panthera pardus kotiya, anendangered sub-species. As we edge forward, a leopard insouciantlystrolls out of the scrub jungle into the road! He is a magnificent maleand somewhat larger than the African leopard. I am entranced. Hestands still and gazes at us with confidence, then flops down into theshort grass. “As leopard is the apex predator here, they don’t reallyneed to drag their prey up into trees like they do in Africa”, Noel informsme. “It is thought that this lack of competition from lions or hyenas is afactor that has enabled this sub-species to evolve to its larger size.”
THE OWNER OF LEOPARD SAFARIS – AN UP MARKETCAMPING OUTFIT, FIFTEEN MINUTES DRIVE FROM YALA 1’SLESS CROWDED BACK ENTRANCE - IS PASSIONATE ABOUT
CONSERVATION OF DIMINISHING WILD AREAS IN SRI LANKA.
On Safari in
Sri LankaOn
Safari inSri Lanka
OnSafari in
Sri LankaBy Gillian McLaren
Fascinated by the various modifications and decorations on the filled–to-capacityJeeps, with their colourful occupants, I take photographs of this cultural melee.Many worshippers from the Sithulpawwa Buddhist Temple sited in the park - orthe famous temple of Kataragama in the nearest village, which is visited byHindus, Buddhists and Muslims – take the opportunity for a safari drive aftermaking their poojas.
We leave the crowded waterhole for a riverine area where we eat ourpacked breakfast. The spot is exquisitely beautiful, with a perennialstream beneath tall trees, where a troop of graceful Ceylon GreyLangur forage. I relish my pol roti with mildly spiced dhal, freshfruits and iced, fresh King Coconut milk, as we gaze at the edenicscene, where a Ruddy Mongoose darts down to quench her thirst.Happily, I tick off Stork-billed, White-throated and CommonKingfisher, as well as many other birds, including Brahminy Kiteand Crested Serpent Eagle.
Back at Leopard Safaris’ campground, lunch is servedbeneath a shady tree. I see a flock of Rose-ringed Parakeet,geckos and a tarantula, which staff has captured to show mebefore they release it away from our living area. After a finefeast on Negumbo prawns and an array of curries withaccoutrements, I rest in the alfresco lounge area to pagethrough some field guides and Yala wildlife coffee tablebooks, until I am lured to a hammock, where I drift intoa pleasant sleep.
On subsequent drives in the impressive terrain ofscrub jungle and thorny grasslands then headingdown to the ocean, I see scrubby-furred Sloth Bear,herds of Asian Elephant and Water Buffalo,Sambar Deer and Mugger Crocodile.
Massive granite boulders - which housedBuddhist monks in their overhangs in the thirdcentury BC, as recorded in ancient Sanscrit onone of the rock surfaces - are enhanced by avivid pink sunset.
Hospitality - especially in the form ofplying with food- is a national trait, which isextended even to animals. Sounders of Wild
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OTHER RECOMMENDED PLACES TO STAY:Casa Colombo: A quirky hotel in Colombo, with zany décor and outstanding food,where you have a personal butler. www.casacolombo.comWallawwa: Close to the international airport, with a long swimming pool in averdant garden and an excellent restaurant. www.thewallawwa.comWhy House: Near Galle Fort and the beach, this is a haven with beautiful furnishings,manicured gardens and kind staff. www.whyhousesrilanka.comBougainvillea: Set in Victoria Golf and Country Resort, Rajawella, Kandy, with amagnificent view of a river and the foothills of Knuckles mountain range. www.bv-retreat.comElephant Stables: Perfectly sited in Kandy with lush gardens drawing birds and greatviews of the hills beyond. www.elephantstables.comUlagalla: Beautiful private villas with pools surrounded by jungle-type vegetation fornature walks, trips to fascinating ancient Anuradhapura, plus delectable dining.www.ugaescapes.com/ulagallaTea Trail:s A Relais and Chateaux hill country resort, having four authentic bungalowsin tea plantations with spectacular views from walking trails. www.teatrails.com