notebook extase* intelligence* charme* tendresse* · PDF fileAh, the charm of romance! Without heart, there would be no romance at all, no moments of tender intimacy ... with gaiety

Champagnenotebook

intelligence*

tendresse*

extase*

*The Champagne vocabulary « Les mots pour les dire »®

charme*

number

This Champagne notebook is the firstin a series which will guide Champagnelovers through the singular universeof Champagne wines.With their sensations, emotions, flavours,images and expressions, Champagnes havea poetry all of their own.With this notebook, the Champenoishope to share their experience,their knowledge, their emotions and theirpassion. “This Champagne notebook isfor all the wine lovers who want to broadentheir understanding of Champagnes”,says André Enders, Directorof the Champagne Trade Association(Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne)

based in Epernay, France. “It is an invitation to explore the diverseand fascinating world of the Champenois”.

Champagnenotebook

COMITÉ INTERPROFESSIONNEL DU VIN DE CHAMPAGNE

, RUE HENRI-MARTIN. ÉPERNAY. FRANCE

carnet 2 anglais planches 11/12/01 17:05 Page 2

the four natural realms of humanperception: Body, Heart, Spirit and Soul.Each of them encompasses certainsensations, characteristics, and styles.For example, if a Champagne is stronglybuilt, vinous, powerful, you might callit a Champagne with Body.If it appears soft, gentle, and harmonious,it may be described as a Champagnewith Heart.If it is lively, fresh, light and refreshing, letus think of it as a Champagne with Spirit.Finally, some are so exceptional, so carefully crafted, that they transcendthe ordinary. These are nothing less thanChampagnes with Soul.In the following pages, the Champenoiswould like to share their intimate knowledge of Champagne wines with you,and guide you through these four realmsof sensations. With them, you will explorethe delicate nuances of the fabulousmany-faceted universe of Champagnes.

Look at the brilliant clarity of thiswine as the tiny bubbles rise. Is it gold? Or straw yellow? Or pink perhaps?A Champagne’s colour can tell you muchabout the wine even before you sip it:about its sparkle, its bouquet, its taste.But colour is just one of the ways inwhich the many Champagnes show theirdistinct style.Born out of the chalky soil and chilly climate of the rolling hills of La Champagne, France, every bottle ofChampagne is an act of creation. Startingas a gift of nature, it ends as a uniquepiece of man’s handiwork with specificcharacteristics and style. This is why there is not one Champagne but many.To describe this diversity of wines, theskilled Champenois producers have organised their knowledge into a distinctvocabulary all of their own.This vocabulary captures the four basicways in which we respond to the world,

Body Spirit

HeartSoul


What makes up aChampagne with Body?This is the term for all thoseChampagnes whose key wordis power - the power of theearth itself, the wine’s source.Such Champagnes, be theyyoung, mature or even vintage,are usually made with a predominance of Pinot noirand Pinot meunier, two grapevarieties which create distinctivearomas and give the winedepth, vinosity and vigour.These are muscularChampagnes, enjoyable fortheir scents of violets, spices,truffles, fresh butter, Virginiatobacco, ripe wheat and biscuitpastry. Not least, they areappreciated for their opulenceand length of flavour.

Partners at tableFull-bodied Champagnes naturally go well with full-flavoured, characterful dishes.Imagine them with pot-au-feu,charcuterie, game, quails inaspic, or foie gras on toastedcountry bread. They are theperfect companions on a tourof the world’s bold cuisines,and can be partnered with thetapas of Spain, the osso buccoof Italy, the stuffed turkey ofAmerica, the beef andYorkshire pudding of Great-Britain… or the universal roastchicken.

Navarin of chicken andtiger prawns (for )

chicken breasts, scallops, gambas; blanched asparagus, g pre-cookedshitaki mushrooms, sticks lemon grass, g lemon balm, g basil, g chervil, g single cream, salt and pepper. Poachthe breasts in a seasoned court bouillon,cover with a lid and remove from heat justat boiling point. Take a laddle-full of stockand reduce in a separate pan. Add thecream. Boil with the peeled lemon grasssticks, add the scallops and gambas for minutes. Just before serving, add the chicken, asparagus, shitaki mushroomsand herbs. Season to taste.

Champagnes with Body

“Full-bodied” has a very precisemeaning for the winemaker.In Champagne terms, it wouldindicate a wine with strong presence and power in themouth. Full-bodied wines arealso said to be well-structured.

Jean-Christophe Novelli,Four Seasons RestaurantFour Seasons Hotel,London Wl


Rich and robustMany people think of Champagneas dainty and delicate, butChampagnes with Body challengeyou to give them the attention theydeserve. Their intense flavours andaromas win you over immediately.Champagnes with Body are forceful, robust and full-flavouredwines. These are Champagneswhose distinctive richness remainson the tongue long after your lastsip. They may even startle you withtheir structure, complexity andpower.

SensationsFull-bodied Champagnes derivetheir character from the highproportion of Pinot noir andPinot meunier in their blend.Hence their sustained bouquetand sturdy structure.The sensations they offer varyenormously from oneChampagne to another. Some can be powerful, withsmoky, woody or earthy aromas.

Some can be concentrated, witha beautiful amber hue and a hintof tobacco or leather in theirbouquet. Others may be spicier,with the smell of oakwood.

OccasionsPeople are notslow in fin-

ding occasions to get togetherover a glass of Champagne. Fromofficial functions to picnics in thepark, from business lunches toinformal tasting parties at home,from lunch at the club to sportingevents, the list is long and varied.Whether you are beginning a newproject or celebrating its completion, Champagnes haveno equal among wines.

Illustrious Champagne loversMany famous people haveadmitted to a passion forChampagne. From great historicalfigures such as Thomas

Jefferson, the Tsars ofRussia and WinstonChurchill, to esteemedartists such as MarcelProust, Marlene Dietrichand Colette, the list is aslong as it is impressive.

Champagnes with Body


Champagnes with Heart

A wine cannot trulybe said to have aheart but... in thecase of Champagnesome might make an

exception. It is a wine inextricablylinked to the greatest, the happiestmoments of our lives.

Ah, the charm ofromance! Withoutheart, there would be

no romance at all, nomoments of tender intimacy

and deep desire. It is the heartwhich creates attractions andgives us friendship and love. And what would life be without great passions?

Which are the Champagneswith Heart?Mature, Brut, often vintage,these wines are fleshy,smooth and always well-balanced. With theemphasis on Pinot noir, theymay include Rosé Champagnesand certain ‘Demi-secs’.On the nose, rose petals,honey, peaches, pears incinnamon, candied orangesand gingerbread may cometo mind.

What to serve with them?These are refined, subtleChampagnes, to be servedwith desserts or at tea-time.They are perfect with fruittarts, soufflés, frothy sabayons,sweet biscuits, delicate creamsor almond cakes.Champagnes with Heart neednot be confined to the dessertcourse, though. Try them withslightly unusual dishes: a chicken cooked with honey,or pigeon with ceps, perhaps.


Champagnes with Heart

A change of HeartChampagnes with Heart evoketenderness, togetherness, happiness and harmony. Theymake special occasions sparklewith gaiety and laughter, lightness and wit. People havedescribed the various aromasand flavours of Champagneswith Heart as delicate and serene as rose petals, or assmooth and warm as meltinghoney. Exquisite and festive,these Champagnes are perfectfor many romantic and familycelebrations.

Happy timesFrom a birth to an anniversary,from the fond farewell to thewelcome home, fromValentine’s Day to New Year’sEve, Champagnes with Hearthave a way of making the heartbeat faster. That clear, palecolour, those warm, toastyhoneyed aromas make such aChampagne a welcome guestwhenever people have

something to celebrate. Andnaturally, Champagnes withHeart are the first choice forweddings and family occasions.

“Come, thou monarch of the vine,Plumpy Bacchus with pink eyne!”William Shakespeare

Rose or roséHistorically all Champagneswere once a rose-red colour, asthe slow, manual pressing prolonged the wine’s contactwith colorants in the skin ofthe grape. As techniques evolved, pressing became more

rapid and more careful, producing wines which were‘whiter’, culminating in themuch sought-after clarity oftoday’s Champagnes.

Rosé Champagnes delight themind as much as the eye.Their colours speak of gentleness and romance, whilethe memory calls up celebrations past. In terms oftaste, some rosés are full-bodiedand passionate wines withpowerful flavours.

The rarity of pinkChampagnesThe beautiful colour of pinkChampagnes gives them a special magic whenever theyare served. These rare winesmake splendid aperitifs, betterbeyond measure than aChampagne masked by thetaste of this or that liqueur.


rapture

mysticism

charm

passion

union

romanticism

enthusiasmPolished wood,

complex,stewed prunes,

flamboyant,intense, toasty

Rounded, ruby, truffly, powerful,

smooth

Pearly, velvety,dreamlike,everlasting,

ash grey,sublime

Barley straw, heavenly,orange blossom

Lace, apricots, mellow,stewed peaches,

cinnamon,gracious, rose petals.

Well built, ripe wheat,brushwood,

leather, musky,smoky, woody,

deepSilky, heady, tuberose,carnation, hyacinth,

glistening,scented,dappled

Coppery, supple, nutty, cocoa,vanilla, lasting finish,

dashing bubbles,dried fruit,

antique gold

Frisky, new oak,wood shavings,

spicy,amber-green

Red fruits, frivolous,graceful bubbles,

pale pink,bewitching

Golden yellow,licorice,fair, rich,

full,aniseed

Crystal clear, perfect,peach almond,

tiny delicate bubbles,meditative Deep pink, balanced,

peach,harmonious,yellow gold,

fruity

Coral colour,serene,

nectarines,pink gold,

well defined

Smooth, ripe figs,oat straw,

gingerbread,mincemeat, jam

Sand coloured,brilliant,delicious,

smooth honey, toffee,glittering, marmalade

Fern, delicate,yellow-green,light bubbles,

briarwood,subtle

Luminous, fresh fruit,witty, minty,

grapefruit yellow,cheeky,verbena

Acacia, glittering,intense,

pistachios,hazelnuts,

ample

Pink,enchanting,

salmon coloured,mellifluous,

meadow flowers

Iridescent, tea leaves,sharp, lively bubbles,

fresh almonds,lime,

freshness

Green-gold,passion fruit,ripe wheat,

mango, pineapple,alert

Fresh citrus, bracing,clear lemon colour,

gleaming,shimmering,

youthful

Fine, water-clear, pippin,tumbling bubbles,

ripe peaches,light

Newly-cut grass,a necklace of pearls,

sharp, pale gold,fresh hay,sprightly

tenderness®The Champagne vocabulary “Les mots pour les dire”

intelligence

Honeyed, soft pink,warm brioche,pears, tender,

abundant bubbles

Gifted, incense,grey-gold, blooming,

fine bubblesat the rim

Body Spirit

HeartSoul

sensualityVirile,amber, profound,

light tobacco,rustic, rural,lively, foam

Straw yellow, fresh butter, biscuity, honest, fruity,

generous


Which are the Champagneswith Spirit?Invariably they are Brut orBlanc de Blancs Champagnes.These have a preponderance of Chardonnay which displays acertain raciness as the winereaches maturity and its optimum development.Champagnes with Spirit arelively, brilliant, clear-cut, oftenwith a grey-yellow colour.Their bubbles are light, quickto form, with a lovely delicateappearance.

One thinks of fresh fruit, inparticular of citrus or exoticfruits, of mint, of freshalmond. The colour is palegreen gold, beneath a jewel-like collar of finebubbles.

Nourishment of the mindLively, inspiring wines suchas these should be partneredby light delicate foods:fish, shellfish, lobster, crab,caviar or artichoke hearts.These could be followedby fresh desserts, suchas sorbets, ices or fruit salads.Then listen as the conversationquickens, and discussiontakes a deeper, morephilosophical turn…

Champagnes with Spirit

enchantment

“The effervescence of this fresh wine reveals

the true brilliance of the French people”.

Voltaire

brilliance and personality, eagerto be noticed and admired.However, their character cancome as a surprise, a shockeven, since there are extremistsamong them in particular theextra bruts.

The freshness, the liveliness, theoriginality of some Champagnescan be a challenge to the intellect. How can one begin todescribe them, or analyse them?Fortunately they speak for themselves, affirming their own

spirited


volutes• If you think like an architect you will see spirallingvolutes, you will appreciatethe framework, you will detectthe structure - all featuresof these extraordinarily finewines, which can soar likethe spire of a cathedral.

• If you think in terms ofpainting, look at the colour ofeach Champagne... luminous,shimmering, glittering, gleaming.

• If you think as a goldsmithwould, consider the pearl necklace that encircles eachglass’s brim, and compare thepure, gemlike brilliance of oneprecious Champagne with another.

• If you are a followerof fashion, think interms of beautifulfabrics, so delicate andvelvety, so iridescentand silky. EachChampagne has itsown indescribable allure,with all the richnessand opulence of lace.

glittering

lively

iridescent

allegro

pearls

shimmering

A musical allegoryIf you can’t find words todescribe a Champagne,close your eyes and listento the music. EachChampagne expresses itselfjust as music does, from itsopening through to the finale.It’s like a Mozart aria - frothy,light, effervescent. Thereis an overture of soaringaromas, then the first clearand lively notes, swellingto a rich, rounded fullness.Next comes a stately allegrovivace, an intense, complexmovement which affirmsthe wine’s fundamental theme.Then that delicate lightnessreturns, before slowlydying away.Champagne is a wine thatsings. And as we listen, we canwatch the dance of thebubbles, forming lines andsoaring upwards in the glass,before they finally burston the surface. Fortissimoto piano, allegro to adagietto.

Champagnes with Spirit

vivace

silky


Champagnes with Soul

“There are only two occasions when I drink

Champagne, and these are : when I have game for

dinner and when I haven’t”. S.D. Churchill

Which are the Champagneswith Soul?The great, indeed, the greatestChampagnes. The rarest, mostcollectible, fullest flavouredvintages, and the specialcuvées. Inevitably these aremature wines, often fromexceptional years. They inspirein many drinkers an almostreligious awe, the respect of atrue connoisseur and collector,a feeling that one should betaking note of a thrilling experience.

The colour, taste and aromaThe wine’s white colour is tinged with the faintest grey-pink. The bubbles are no longer pearly but a grey-gold,like crystal, and bright as thestars. The taster is soon lost inthe complexity of the wine’saromas, with their scents of precious, delicate spices.

When?These Champagnes deserve tobe enjoyed for their own sake,for their rarity, for the sheerextravagance of it. Serve themas evidence of your generosity,on an exceptionally important

occasion, or at a dinner whereevery detail must be perfect.Such wines should accompanya salad of fresh truffles, afeuilleté of crab, or lightly seared scallops. Or, atChristmas, why not a roastcapon?

The history of the region isbound with the history ofFrance, from the defeat ofAttila to the moment when Joanof Arc was summoned to crownthe King of France in Reimscathedral.

The region which gave birth toChampagne has a long, bravehistory, and the pages of history can never be writtenwithout an excess of Soul.Some Champagnes, similarly,go beyond time, into therealms of eternity.

“The priest has just baptised youa Christian with water, and I baptise you a Frenchman, darling child, with a dewdrop ofChampagne on your lips”.Paul Claudel


There are so many reasons forvisiting La Champagne. Thearchitecture is vibrant with history,with cathedrals as beautiful as anyin France, the ‘angel of Reims’always wears a smile. Like thesky, the face of nature changesconstantly. Here and only here canone discover the rich varietyof Champagnes.

The Champagne regionis divided into four areasThe Montagne de Reims, theMarne Valley, the Côte des Blancsand the Côte des Bar: each has itsown geographical identity. By caror even on foot, you can see theorientation of the slopes wherethe vines grow, the soil and thesub-soil, the three permittedgrape varieties, and the sites wherethey thrive. All these factors leadto differences in flavour, and givethe wines of each village their ownspecific character.La Champagne comprises morethan different crus, areasnamed after the microclimate andsoil of a particular site or village.

Their subtle complexities canonly be appreciated on the spot,but happily the people ofLa Champagne are alwaysdelighted to help you understandtheir wines and the love theyhave for them.

The Champagne housesWhether situated in the largertowns or set among the vineyards,the Champagne houses aremagical places. They tell the storyof Champagne from the daythey were built to the present,and one learns just how muchthese companies have contributedover the years to the worldwidepresence of Champagne. Eachhouse has been an ambassadorof Champagne to commonersas well as Kings, in Franceand throughout the world.This explains the pride shownin their traditions, and theirpleasure in conducting visitorsaround the cool chalk cellars.They will explain in detail howtheir wines are made, and aftersuch a visit, one understandsbetter what distinguishes one winefrom another, even if the truesecrets are still shared only by theproprietors and cellarmasters.

Travel to Champagne

How to get thereBy car from Paris: takethe A, or the new A.It only takes an hourand a half.

By train from the garede l’Est in Paris.

From LondonTake the A to theChannel tunnel, thenthe A to Reims.

The Champagneregion stands at thecross-roads of severalimportant trans-European routes.

Tourist offices Château-Thierry, rue Vallée Tel. ()

Épernay, av.de Champagne Tel. ()

Reims , rue Guillaume deMachaultTel. ()

Troyes, Bd Carnot Tel. ()

ParisReims

Troyes


The three varieties ofChampagne grapesOnly three grape varieties are grown in La Champagne:Pinot noir are richlycoloured and intense.They impart power andstructure to Champagnecuvées.Pinot meunier, a cousinof Pinot noir, add fruitiness and spiceto Champagnes.Chardonnay are whitegrapes. Crisp and light,they lend elegance andfinesse to Champagnewines and balance therichness of Pinot noir.

The right glassTo appreciate all thefinesse of a Champagne,you have to serve it inthe glass it deserves.The capacity and heightshould provide thebubbles with enoughspace to form and riseto the surface, whilekeeping the temperatureof the wine as steadyas possible. The idealglass is tulip-shaped;shallow-bowled glassesare to be avoidedbecause a wide surfacearea allows the aromasto disperse too quickly.

How to wash the glassRinse the glasses in hotwater without any traceof washing-up liquid,let them drain until dry,then store them upright,or hang them shelteredfrom dust. The residuesof washing and rinsingcan soon diminishthe sparkle in the wine.

The right temperatureChampagne is bestdrunk well-chilled butnever iced. The youngerand livelier theChampagne, the cooler itshould be served down toa minimum of °C/°F.A mature or vintageChampagne will be perfect at °C/°F.Overchilling Champagneinhibits the perceptionof aromas and flavours.

How to coolChampagneIn a Champagne bucket:a bottle from your cellarplunged into a mixtureof water and ice shouldreach the right temperature in to

minutes. In the refrigerator: liethe bottle down in thebottom of the refrigeratorthree or four hours before

serving it; you can leaveit there even longer, provided that the temperature remainsconstant; then you canalways have a ready chilled bottle to hand.The freezer should neverbe used.

How to open the bottleRemove the foil, undothe wire muzzle andincline the bottle by °,grasping the cork firmlywith your hand. Thenturn the bottle itself byholding it at the base,while allowing the corkto gradually rotate out ofthe bottle’s neck. Fill theglasses no more thantwo-thirds full.

How to keep an openbottleYou may have heard thatan opened bottle ofChampagne could bekept in good conditionby placing a silver spoonupside down in its bottleneck. Howeverdelightful this story maybe, we suggest that youuse a special Champagnestopper instead.

Dole, Image Bank-Alcosser, Image Bank-Neleman. P18 Madame Figaro-Laiter.P19 Scope-Sayegh, Image Bank-Gesar,Image Bank-Berman, Madame Figaro-Laiter. P20 Dagli Orti, Scope-Hadengue,Scope-Guillard, Scope-Sudres, ImageBank-Choisnet. P21 Bonzom, ImageBank-Wood, Scope-Guillard. P22 CIVC-Jolyot, Scope-Guillard, CIVC, Scope-Sudres. P23 Scope-Hadengue P24 Madame Figaro-Lippmann,Edimedia- © SPADEM Cocteau 1995,Edimedia, Madame Figaro-Laiter.

Did you know?

A certain savoir-vivre is conferredon anyone who enters thisenchanting prestigious world,willing to learn about itsexceptional wines.

The Champagne growersJust follow the region’s countrylanes and byways, or join the trailsignposted as La RouteTouristique du Champagne.You’ll soon fall under the spellof the church spires in each village,the rolling hills, and the wide,varied landscapes. But you reallyshould stop from time to time,and get to know the Champagnegrowers better. First, for thewarmth of their welcome, asthey invite you to look aroundtheir cellars, taste their wines,and share their enthusiasm.But also for the insight intoChampagne which they will offer.It’s a unique understanding,growing out of the soil andthe vines, which the growersknow better than anyone.This understanding is presentin the wines themselves, the result

of all the Champagne growers’talent and character. The wines have character, too,which the winemakers love to discuss. They’ll explain thenuances between each vineyardand each year, using the words ofmen who live close to the vines,and have done for generations.

The diversity of winesThe diversity of wines is immense,so you have every opportunity tobecome an œnophile. Summonup your senses, then taste, andcompare. Each Brut, Rosé or vintage Champagne will fall intoplace on the map of your sensations, with its four points ofthe sensory compass. Take yourtime - imagine the occasions youwould serve these Champagnes,and what food you would servethem with. You will find thatthere is no single wine that youcan call Champagne, but insteada wide spectrum of wines,so many that Champagne isa journey of endless discovery.

Champagne travel notes

Lecourieux, Jerrican-Limier. P8 ImageBank-Altair, Image Bank-Mascardi,Edimedia- © SPADEM Cocteau 1995.P9 Dagli Orti, Madame Figaro-seelow,Bibliothèque Nationale, Edimedia, Scope-Bonhommet, Image Bank-Crocker. P10 Scope-Sayegh, Image Bank-deLossy, Image Bank-Lane. P11 CIVC,Top-Cephas, Image Bank-Crocker,Marco Polo-Bouillot. P14 Scope-Sudres,Edimedia, Image Bank-Brousseau. P15 Scope-Sayegh, Scope-Guillard,Edimedia. P16 Image Bank-Spielman,Scope-Sudres, Dagli Orti. P17 ImageBank-Ajbeszyc, Image Bank-Spielman,Image Bank-Choisnet, RMN, Image Bank-

Photo creditsP1, 11 et 12 From ®Vocabulaire desChampagnes “Les mots pour les dire”, illustrations Gilles Cenazandotti. P2 Madame Figaro-Ryman-Cabannes,Dagli Orti. P3 Edimedia, Image Bank-Gay. P4 Madame Figaro-Lippman. P5 Image Bank-achernar, Madame Figa-ro-Ryman-Cabannes, Image Bank-Ham-dan. P6 Image bank-Crocker, Scope-Sudres, image bank-Horowitz, imagebank-Obremski. P7 Vloo-Peschke,Collection Cat's, Bonzom, image bank-Bokelberg, Roger- Viollet, image bank-Pistolesi, Stein, Jerrican-taylor,Fotogram Stone-Grey, Jerrican-

ISSN n° 1263-5561.

Printed in Belgium, in February1996 by Graphing Grafossart.

Director of the publication André Enders.

Paris

Château-Thierry

Reims

Épernay

Châlons-sur-Marne

Vitry-le-FrançoisSézanne

Brienne-le-Château

Troyes Bar-sur-Aube

Bar-sur-Seine

l’Aisne

la Seine

l’Aube

la Vesle

la Marne


notebook extase* intelligence* charme* tendresse* · PDF fileAh, the charm of romance! Without heart, there would be no romance at all, no moments of tender intimacy ... with gaiety

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