NEW** 1911 Phantom Jig Directions - Stealth Arms Jig Directions with read... · kit phantom sa-1911-jig ... slide stop pin hole (Ø.201) and the grip safety pin hole (Ø.157). ...

***READ BEFORE CUTTING!!*** We’ve been having people cutting their barrel seats too deep, so below is an illustration depicting the Barrel Seat

Cutter used in the Phantom Jig. As you can see, the Barrel Seat Cutter has 2 ‘ears’ on either side of the cutting

edge. THESE ARE FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE! If you see that you are cutting material from the frame with these two

‘ears’ then STOP CUTTING! You have gone deep enough with your barrel seat, and are finished cutting it.

We have also heard that people are having trouble with the cutters staying tight, and sometimes falling out of the

Phantom Jig Car. This happens as a result of not keeping your set screws snug as you turn the adjusting knob to

make deeper cuts with the jig. PLEASE make sure the set screws are snug after EVERY turn of the adjusting knob.

(NOTE: If the adjusting knob gets easier to turn, TIGHTEN THE SET SCREWS!) It is not necessary to take the set

screws out. Just make sure they are still snug with a quick turn of the Allen wrench. The set screws are shown

below:

***RAIL CUTTING ORIENTATION***

PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK THE ORIENTATION OF YOUR

PHANTOM JIG CAR BEFORE CUTTING THE RAILS! THE CAR

SHOULD ALWAYS BE FLUSH WITH THE SIDE PLATES WHEN

CUTTING THE RAILS, AS SHOWN BELOW:

Stealth Arms

1911 Phantom Jig

2

TABLE OF CONTENTS:……………………………………………………………………………………………………..………2.

A Message from Stealth Arms LLC……………………………………………………………………………………….....3.

Phantom Jig Contents………………………..…………………………………………………………………………………...3.

Assembling Frame and Side Plates ……………………………………..………………………………….………….....4.

DIAGRAM #1…..…………………………………………………………………………………………………..………4.

Drilling Hammer Pin and Sear Pin Holes….……………………………………………………………….……………….5.

DIAGRAM #2…………………………………………………………………………………………………………….…5.

Assembly of Car (SLIDE RAIL CUT PREPARATION)….…………………………………….………………………….6.

DIAGRAM #3…………………………………………………………………………………………………….…………6.

DIAGRAM #4………………………………………………………………………………………………………………7.

DIAGRAM #5…….………………………………………………………………………………………….….…………8.

Cutting the Slide Rails….……………………………………………………………………………………….……………….…9.

DIAGRAM #6………………………………………………………………………………………….……………………9.

DIAGRAM #7…….……………………………………………………………………………………………….………10.

DIAGRAM #8…….…………………………………………………………………………………………………….…11.

DIAGRAM #9….…………………………………………………………………………………………………….…...12.

DIAGRAM #10………………………………………………………………………………………………………..….13.

Assembling Frame and Side Plates (BARREL SEAT CUT PREPARATION)…… …………………….……..14.

DIAGRAM #11…..……………………………………………………………………………..…………………………14.

DIAGRAM #12……………………………………………………………………………………………………….…….15.

DIAGRAM #13………………………………………………………………………………………………………..…..16.

DIAGRAM #14…….……………………………………………………………………………………………..……….17.

Rail and Barrel Seat Specs……………………………………………………………………………………………………….18.

CONGRATULATIONS!.....................................................................................................19.

Contact Information….……………………………………………………………………………………………………….…..20.

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PHANTOM JIG CONTENTS:

1. Right Hand (RH) Side Plate (1)

2. Left Hand (LH) Side Plate (1)

3. Phantom® Jig Car (1)

4. Jig Handle (1)

5. Adjusting Knob (1)

6. Spacer Block (1)

7. M5 x .8 Side Plate SHCS (1)

8. Rail Cutter (1)

9. Barrel Seat Cutter (1)

11. 10-32 Set Screw (2)

12. Ø.157 dowel pin (1)

13. Ø.201 dowel pin (1)

14. #35 Drill Bit (1)

15. #22 Drill Bit (1)

16. 5/32 Allen Wrench (1)

17. 3/32 Allen Wrench (1)

18. 1 oz. Lubricating Oil (1)

WHAT YOU WILL NEED TO SUPPLY:

-DRILL PRESS

-WORK HOLDING VISE

-PERMANENT MARKER

Model Composition

*SA-1911-JIG-2001-PHANTOM *SA-1911-JIG-2002-PHANTOM-K

SERIES MODEL PART NO. FRAME

Phantom Jig

Kit

Phantom SA-1911-JIG-2002-PHANTOM-K YES

Phantom Jig Phantom SA-1911-JIG-2001-PHANTOM NO

SERIES BOLTS

DRILLS,PINS

RIGHT & LEFT

SIDE PLATE Phantom 80% 1911

FRAME

1911 JIG

KIT

1911 JIG

A MESSAGE FROM STEALTH ARMS LLC

AT STEALTH ARMS, WE ARE VERY AWARE OF, AND SHARE IN

THE OVERWHELMING EXCITEMENT YOU ARE FEELING RIGHT

NOW IN ANTICIPATION OF COMPLETING YOUR NEW 1911

BUILD. ALTHOUGH IT MAY BE HARD TO CONTAIN THE

ENTHUSIASM AND REFRAIN FROM DIVING HEAD FIRST INTO

THIS NEW PROJECT, WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND THAT YOU

READ THROUGH THESE INSTRUCTIONS COMPLETELY AND

THUROUGHLY BEFORE GETTING STARTED WITH YOUR BUILD.

IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU HAVE A STRONG

KNOWLEDGE OF EVERY TASK YOU WILL HAVE TO PERFORM IN

ORDER TO ENSURE THAT YOUR BUILD IS SUCCESSFULLLY

COMPLETED TO YOUR SATISFACTION.

AFTER COMPLETING YOUR NEW BUILD, BE SURE TO SUBMIT A

SMALL DESCRIPTION OF YOUR STEALTH ARMS EXPERIENCE

AND PICTURES OF THE BUILD TO THE FEEDBACK SECTION OF

OUR WEBSITE AT WWW.STEALTHARMS.NET. WE LOVE

HEARING FROM OUR CUSTOMERS, AND ALWAYS APPRECIATE

ANY FEEDBACK AND/OR CONSTRUCTIVE CRITICISM

CONCERNING OUR 100% AMERICAN MADE PRODUCTS.

THANK YOU FOR YOUR PURCHASE! WE HOPE YOU ENJOY

YOUR BUILD AS MUCH AS WE ENJOY SUPPLYING YOU WITH

THE NECESSARY EQUIPMENT TO COMPLETE IT!

4

ASSEMBLING FRAME AND SIDE PLATES (REFER TO DIAGRAM #1):

STEP 1: INSERT Ø.157 DOWEL PIN AND Ø.201 DOWEL PIN INTO THE LH SIDE PLATE HOLES,

JUST BELOW THE CUTTING GUIDE SLOT.

STEP 2: SLIDE THE 80% 1911 GOVERNEMENT FRAME ONTO THE DOWEL PINS USING THE

SLIDE STOP PIN HOLE (Ø.201) AND THE GRIP SAFETY PIN HOLE (Ø.157).

STEP 3: ALIGN THE CORRESPONDING HOLES ON THE RH SIDE PLATE AND SLIDE IT ON TO

THE DOWEL PINS, “SANDWICHING” THE FRAME BETWEEN THE TWO SIDE PLATES.

STEP 4: SECURE THE FRAME BETWEEN THE SIDE PLATES BY INSERTING THE M5 X .8 BOLT

THROUGH THE COUNTERBORED HOLE IN THE RH SIDE PLATE AND THREADING IT INTO THE

LH SIDE PLATE. TIGHTEN THE BOLT WITH THE 5/32 ALLEN WRENCH (PROVIDED). SNUG THE

M5 BOLT SO THAT THERE IS NO MOVEMENT BETWEEN THE SIDE PLATES AND FRAME, BUT

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BOLT SO THAT IT IS SQUEEZING THE SIDES OF THE FRAME

TOGETHER.

***WARNING***

OVER TIGHTENING THE M5 BOLT WILL RESULT IN UNSATISFACTORY RESULTS WHEN

FINISHING YOUR 80% 1911 FRAME!

DIAGRAM #1: ASSEMBLY OF FRAME TO SIDE PLATES

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DRILLING HAMMER PIN AND SEAR PIN HOLES

***NOTE***

ALTHOUGH YOU WILL SURELY BE TEMPTED TO USE A HANDHELD POWER DRILL TO DRILL

THE HAMMER PIN HOLE AND SEAR PIN HOLE, DO NOT ATTEMPT IT! TRUST US. WE’VE

TRIED. YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO ENSURE THAT THE HOLES ARE DRILLED STRAIGHT IN

THE WALLS OF THE FRAME. THE SEAR PIN HOLE AND HAMMER PIN HOLE ARE CRUCIAL

TO THE SAFE AND PROPER FUNCTIONING OF YOUR COMPLETED 1911.

STEP 1: PLACE SIDE PLATE AND FRAME ASSEMBLY FLAT ON THE WORK TABLE OF YOUR

DRILL PRESS.

STEP 2: INSERT THE #22 DRILL INTO THE DRILL PRESS CHUCK AND SECURE IT TIGHTLY.

STEP 3: TURN THE DRILL PRESS ON AND DRILL THE HAMMER PIN HOLE USING THE GUIDE

HOLE IN THE SIDE PLATES. (SEE DIAGRAM #2 FOR PROPER HOLE PLACEMENTS)

***IMPORTANT***

ONLY DRILL THROUGH HALF OF THE FRAME AT A TIME! IF YOU TRY TO DRILL THROUGH

BOTH SIDES OF THE FRAME FROM ONE SIDE, YOUR DRILL MAY “WALK” OFF AND YOUR

HOLES MAY NOT LINE UP WITH EACH OTHER. THIS WILL GIVE YOU THE BEST RESULTS FOR

YOUR HAMMER PIN HOLE AND SEAR PIN HOLE ALIGNMENT.

STEP 4: REPEAT STEPS 1 THROUGH 3 WITH THE #35 DRILL TO DRILL THE SEAR PIN HOLE

USING THE SEAR PIN GUIDE HOLES IN EACH SIDE PLATE.

DIAGRAM #2: PROPER PLACEMENT OF HAMMER PIN HOLE AND SEAR PIN HOLE

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ASSEMBLY Of THE CAR (SLIDE RAIL CUTTING PREPARATION)

***IMPORTANT***

THE CAR COMES PARTIALLY ASSEMBLED WITH YOUR KIT. FOR YOUR CONVENIENCE,

WE HAVE ALREADY INSTALLED THE SLIDE RAIL CUTTER AND THE BARREL SEAT CUTTER

INTO THE CAR. THIS DOES NOT MEAN THEY ARE READY FOR THE CUTTING PROCESS!!

YOU WILL NEED TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY TO ENSURE EACH CUTTER

IS SECURED PROPERLY BEFORE YOU START!

STEP 1: START BY LOOSENING THE SET SCREW TO THE SLIDE CUTTER (SEE DIAGRAM #3)

AND PUSHING IT UP INTO THE PHANTOM JIG CAR SO THE CUTTING EDGE IS SLIGHTLY

INSIDE THE BOTTOME OF THE OPENING. NEXT, RE-TIGHTEN THE SET SCREW.

DIAGRAM #3: SECURING THE SLIDE RAIL CUTTER

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STEP 2: NEXT, YOU WILL NEED TO ADD THE JIG HANDLE AND THE ADJUSTING KNOB TO THE

CORRECT POSITIONS IN ORDER TO CUT THE SLIDE RAILS PROPERLY. SCREW THE ADJUSTING KNOB

INTO THE HOLE ABOVE THE RAIL CUTTER (INSIDE THE COUNTER BORED HOLE). THE ADJUSTING

KNOB ALLOWS YOU TO CONTROL HOW DEEP YOUR CUTS WILL BE WHEN CUTTING THE SLIDE RAILS

INTO THE FRAME. (SEE DIAGRAM #4)

STEP 3: INSERT THE JIG HANDLE BY THREADING IT INTO THE HOLE DIRECTLY BEHIND THE

ADJUSTING KNOB. THIS POSITION ENSURES GOOD, EVEN PRESSURE ON THE CUTTER WHEN YOU

BEGIN CUTTING THE SLIDE RAILS INTO THE 1911 FRAME. (SEE DIAGRAM #4)

DIAGRAM #4: ADJUSTING KNOB AND JIG HANDLE PLACEMENT FOR SLIDE RAIL CUTS

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STEP 4: CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE CUTTING EDGE OF THE SLIDE RAIL CUTTER IS POINTED IN THE

SAME DIRECTION AS THE ARROW THAT POINTS TO THE FRONT OF THE PHANTOM JIG. YOU MAY

LOOSEN THE SET SCREW SLIGHTLY AND POSITION THE CUTTER SO THAT THE CUTTING EDGE IS

SLIGHTLY PROTRUDING FROM THE FACE OF THE GUIDE BOSS. (SEE DIAGRAM #5)

DIAGRAM #5: POSITIONING THE SLIDE RAIL CUTTER

.

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CUTTING THE SLIDE RAILS

STEP 1: INSERT THE SPACER BLOCK INTO THE CENTER OF THE SIDE PLATE GUIDE SLOT. (SEE

DIAGRAM #6)

***IMPORTANT***

INSERTION OF THE SPACER BLOCK IN THE GUIDE SLOT OF THE SIDE PLATE ENSURES THAT

YOU DO NOT DIMINISH THE INTEGRITY OF THE GUIDE SLOT IN THE SIDE PLATES WHEN

TIGHTENING THE ASSEMBLY IN YOUR WORK HOLDING VISE IN STEP 2.

DIAGRAM #6: POSITIONING THE SPACER BLOCK

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STEP 2: SECURE THE SIDE PLATE AND FRAME ASSEMBLY IN YOUR WORK HOLDING VISE BY

CLAMPING ON THE LEFT HAND SIDE PLATE WITH THE BARREL END OF THE FRAME POINTED

TOWARD YOU AND THE GRIP END OF THE FRAME OPPOSITE OF YOU. (SEE DIAGRAM #7)

STEP 3: AT THIS POINT YOU WILL NEED TO LUBRICATE THE SURFACE OF THE SIDE PLATE WHERE

THE CAR WILL BE SLIDING TO MINIMIZE FRICTION BETWEEN THE 2 SURFACES WHILE MAKING THE

SLIDE RAIL CUTS. APPLY OIL INSIDE THE SLOT AND AROUND THE ENTIRE SURFACE OF THE SIDE

PLATE USING THE 1 OZ. BOTTLE OF LUBRICATING OIL (SUPPLIED). (SEE DIAGRAM #7) USING YOUR

FINGER, SPREAD THE LUBRICATING OIL AROUND THE SURFACE OF THE SIDE PLATE SO IT IS

COVERING THE WHOLE SURFACE, OR AT LEAST THE AREAS THAT WILL HAVE DIRECT CONTACT

WITH THE CAR.

DIAGRAM #7: CLAMPING SIDE PLATE/FRAME ASSEMBLY IN WORK HOLDING VICE TO CUT SLIDE

RAILS.

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***IMPORTANT***

IT IS IMPERATIVE THAT YOU DO NOT RUSH THE PROCESS OF FINDING THE STARTING POSITION

OF THE RAIL CUTTER.

STEP 4: AFTER YOU’VE APPLIED LUBRICATING OIL ON THE SIDE PLATE AND CAR, IT IS TIME TO

PLACE YOUR CAR INTO POSITION. SET THE CAR ON THE SIDE PLATE SO THAT THE GUIDE BOSS ON

THE CAR FITS INSIDE THE SIDE RAIL GUIDE SLOT. (SEE DIAGRAM #8) BEFORE YOU CAN START

CUTTING THE RAIL, YOU NEED TO DETERMINE THE “STARTING POSITION” OF YOUR RAIL CUTTER.

THIS IS ACHIEVED BY TURNING THE ADJUSTING KNOB IN A CLOCKWISE ROTATION WHILE

SIMULTANIOUSLY PUSHING AND PULLING THE CAR ALONG THE SIDE PLATE GUIDE SLOT WITH THE

JIG HANDLE. TURNING THE ADJUSTING KNOB WILL FORCE THE RAIL CUTTER DOWN TOWARD THE

1911 FRAME. CONTINUE THIS PROCESS UNTIL THE CUTTER LIGHTLY ENGAGES THE FRAME. THE

GOAL IS TO DETERMINE THE POINT AT WHICH THE CUTTER AND THE FRAME MEET. ONCE THE

“STARTING POSITION” IS FOUND, USE A MARKER TO MARK ON THE CAR WHERE THE POINTED

KNOB FINGER IS.

DIAGRAM #8: POSITIONING THE PHANTOM JIG CAR IN THE SIDE PLATE GUIDE SLOT

STEP 5: WHEN YOU’VE DETERMINED YOUR STARTING POSITION FOR CUTTING THE SLIDE RAILS

YOU WILL NEED TO MARK WHERE THE INDICATING FINGER (knob has 4 fingers, 1 of which is

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shaped to a point) ON THE ADJUSTING KNOB IS LINED UP WITH THE NOTCHES ENGRAVED ON THE

PHANTOM JIG CAR. (SEE DIAGRAM #9).

***NOTE***

THERE ARE 10 NOTCHES ENGRAVED ON THE PHANTOM JIG CAR SURROUNDING THE ADJUSTING

KNOB. THESE NOTCHES REPRESENT 1/10 OF A REVOLUTION, MEANING 1 COMPLETE

REVOLUTION OF THE ADJUSTING KNOB EQUALS 10 NOTCHES. TO ACHIEVE THE MAXIMUM

DEPTH OF .061 INCH, THE KNOB WILL NEED TO BE TURNED FROM THE STARTING POSITION YOU

MARKED ON THE PHANTOM JIG CAR (SEE DIAGRAM #9) EXACTLY 19 NOTCHES OR 1.9 COMPLETE

REVOLUTIONS OF THE ADJUSTING KNOB.

DIAGRAM #9: MARKING THE STARTING POSITION OF THE ADJUSTING KNOB/RAIL CUTTER

13

***NOTE***

IF YOU FIND IT TOO DIFFICULT TO PUSH THE PHANTOM JIG CAR TO MAKE THE CUTS TO THE SLIDE

RAIL, TRY ONLY TURNING THE ADJUSTING KNOB ½ THE DISTANCE TO THE NEXT NOTCH MARKED

ON THE PHANTOM JIG CAR TO TAKE LESS MATERIAL PER CUT. IT IS ALSO IMPORTANT TO LIFT UP

SLIGHTLY ON THE PHANTOM JIG CAR ON EACH BACK STROKE TO AVOID DRAGGING THE CUTTER

BACKWARD ALONG THE AREA YOU ARE CUTTING TO PROLONG THE LIFE OF THE CUTTER.

STEP 6: AFTER YOU’VE MARKED THE STARTING POSITION OF YOUR SLIDE RAIL CUTTER, IT IS TIME

TO START MAKING YOUR SLIDE RAIL CUTS. DO THIS BY TURNING THE ADJUSTING KNOB CLOCKWISE

ONE NOTCH AT A TIME. AFTER EACH KNOB ADJUSTMENT, PUSH THE CAR FORWARD WHILE

PUSHING DOWN ON THE CAR. 3-4 PASSES AT EACH ADJUSTMENT HEIGHT MAY BE NECESSARY TO

CUT ALL MATERIAL BEFORE MOVING DEEPER. REPEAT UNTIL YOU’VE COMPLETED 1.9

REVOLUTIONS OF THE ADJUSTING KNOB TO ACHIEVE A DEPTH OF .061 INCH ON YOUR SLIDE RAIL.

(SEE DIAGRAM #10)

DIAGRAM #10: MEASURING THE DEPTH OF THE SLIDE RAIL

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ASSEMBLING FRAME AND SIDE PLATE ASSEMBLY (BARREL SEAT CUT PREP)

STEP 1: NOW THAT BOTH SIDES OF THE SLIDE RAILS ARE COMPLETE, IT IS TIME TO PREPARE THE

FRAME, SIDE PLATE ASSEMBLY AND CAR TO CUT THE BARREL SEAT. FIRST, REPOSITION THE FRAME

BETWEEN THE SIDE PLATES WHERE THE DOWEL PINS WILL BE INSERTED INTO THE HOLES ABOVE

THE SIDE PLATE GUIDE SLOT SO THAT THE SLIDE RAILS FOR THE 1911 FRAME ARE STICKING JUST

ABOVE THE EDGE OF THE SIDE PLATES. (SEE DIAGRAM #11)

DIAGRAM #11: ASSEMBLING THE SIDE PLATES AND FRAME (BARREL CUT PREPARATION)

STEP 2: SECURE THE SIDE PLATES TO THE FRAME WITH THE M5 X .8 BOLT ***DO NOT OVER-

TIGHTEN THE BOLT!!***

15

***NOTE***

YOU WILL BE CLAMPING THE SIDE PLATE AND FRAME ASSEMBLY IN YOUR VISE ON THE WIDE

PART OF THE SIDE PLATES. USE A SHOP TOWEL TO ACT AS A BUFFER BETWEEN THE SIDE PLATES

AND THE VISE JAWS. IF THE VISE JAWS ARE SERRATED, USE TWO SHOP TOWELS. IT IS

IMPORTANT FOR FUTURE BUILDS TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE SURFACES OF THE JIG.

STEP 3: POSITION THE FRAME AND SIDE RAIL ASSEMBLY IN THE VISE VERTICALLY SO THAT THE

BARREL END OF THE FRAME IS POINTED TOWARD YOU, AND THE GRIP END OF THE FRAME IS

AWAY FROM YOU. (SEE DIAGRAM #12)

DIAGRAM #12: CLAMPING THE SIDE PLATE/ FRAME IN WORK HOLDING VICE (BARREL SEAT CUT

PREP.)

16

STEP 4: MOVE THE ADJUSTING KNOB AND JIG HANDLE TO THE DESIGNATED POSITIONS ON THE

CAR, DIRECTLY IN LINE WITH THE BARREL SEAT CUTTER. (SEE DIAGRAM #13)

DIAGRAM #13: ADJUSTING KNOB AND HANDLE POSTIONS (BARREL SEAT CUT PREPARATION)

STEP 5: APPLY LUBRICATING OIL LIBERALLY TO THE AREAS INDICATED IN DIAGRAM #15 (SEE

DIAGRAM #15) TO ENSURE A NICE SMOOTH MOTION OF THE CAR WHEN CUTTING THE BARREL

SEAT.

STEP 6: POSITION THE CAR ONTO THE SLIDE RAILS YOU CUT INTO THE FRAME USING THE SLIDE

GUIDE RAILS ON THE CAR TO CUT THE BARREL SEAT INTO THE FRAME. (SEE DIAGRAM #15)

STEP 7: FOLLOW THE SAME PROCEDURE IN DETERMINING THE STARTING POSITION OF THE BARREL

CUTTER AS YOU DID WITH THE RAIL CUTTER BY MOVING THE CAR ACROSS THE TOP OF THE FRAME

WHILE SIMULTANEOUSLY TURNING THE ADJUSTING KNOB UNTIL YOU SEE A SHINY LINE APPEAR

ON THE FRAME. THIS IS YOUR STARTING POSITION. BE SURE TO MARK THE STARTING POSITION ON

THE CAR CORRESPONDENT TO THE ENGRAVED NOTCHES.

STEP 8: ONCE YOU HAVE DETERMINED YOUR STARTING POSITION YOU CAN NOW BEGIN MAKING

YOUR CUTS IN THE EXACT SAME MANNER AS YOU DID WITH THE RAIL CUTTER.

17

***NOTE***

THE DEPTH OF THE BARREL SEAT SHOULD BE .077 INCH. THIS DEPTH IS ACHIEVED BY MAKING 2.4

COMPLETE (CLOCKWISE) REVOLUTIONS OF THE ADJUSTING KNOB, USING THE STARTING

POSITION MARK DETERMINED IN STEP 7. TO ENSURE A NICE FINISH, IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT

YOU TAKE SMALLER CUTS TOWARD THE END OF THE PROCESS WHEN FINISHING THE BARREL

SEAT, JUST AS YOU DID WITH THE SLIDE RAILS.

DIAGRAM #14: PROPER POSITIONING AND LUBRICATION TO CUT THE BARREL SEAT INTO FRAME

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Rail and Barrel Seat Specs.

19

CONGRATULATIONS!!!

YOUR 80% 1911 FRAME IS NOW A 100%

1911 FRAME!!!

***IMPORTANT***

PLEASE REMEMBER TO OBSERVE ALL LOCAL, STATE, AND FEDERAL LAWS

WHEN PRODUCING A FIREARM FROM 80% FRAMES/LOWER RECIEVERS.

.

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Stealth Arms “1911 complete Parts kits” are 100% precision machined from billet materials to fit

the Stealth Arms 80% frames. We guarantee that our parts will fit your Stealth Arms 1911 frame

with little to no fitting required.

Visit us online at www.stealtharms.net/shop

Contact Us: For orders visit, www.stealtharms.net/shop or email [email protected]

Shipping: [email protected]

Returns: [email protected]

Sales: [email protected]

Tech support / operation questions: [email protected]

P.O.BOX 85 ST.MARYS, OHIO 45885

Phone: 419-952-7005 Email: [email protected] Web: www.stealtharms.net