National costume of Dzūkija

National costume of National costume of DzūkijaDzūkija

Made by Tautvydas Jokubauskas 8a

Inga Sabutytė 7a

The Clothing of DzūkijaThe Clothing of Dzūkija

Traditional clothing was worn in Traditional clothing was worn in many parts of many parts of DzūkijaDzūkija longer  longer than anywhere else in Lithuania, than anywhere else in Lithuania, even into the first decades of even into the first decades of the twentieth century. Fancy the twentieth century. Fancy dress worn by villagers varies dress worn by villagers varies greatly among the different greatly among the different parts of this region. The woven parts of this region. The woven cloth of garments cloth of garments from from DzūkijaDzūkija is distinguished  is distinguished from that of other regions by its from that of other regions by its bright colors and smaller bright colors and smaller checkers and stripes.checkers and stripes.

WomenWomen

MenMen

HeadwearHeadwear

The headwear of women of Dzūkija The headwear of women of Dzūkija depended on the woman's age and the depended on the woman's age and the time of the year. Girls decorated their time of the year. Girls decorated their heads with crowns and galloons made of heads with crowns and galloons made of ribbons, sashes, and various refinements.ribbons, sashes, and various refinements.

Married women wore bonnetsMarried women wore bonnets andand white white linen stoles linen stoles

BonnetsBonnets

Married women wore bonnets, which Married women wore bonnets, which in in DzūkijaDzūkija were especially varied. They were  were especially varied. They were sewn from linen-netted lace, white or colored sewn from linen-netted lace, white or colored cotton, wool and silk. Their front edges were cotton, wool and silk. Their front edges were usually decorated with embroidery, various usually decorated with embroidery, various pleated ribbons, laces, beads, and additional pleated ribbons, laces, beads, and additional shiny ornaments. shiny ornaments.

HeadbandsHeadbands

Headbands were made from folded and cut Headbands were made from folded and cut into strips of canvas. They were usually into strips of canvas. They were usually white and red. The spaces between the white and red. The spaces between the strips were are sometimes filled with small strips were are sometimes filled with small tassels of wool,tassels of wool, amber, pearl and coralamber, pearl and coral beads.beads.

HeadscarvesHeadscarves

Headscarves were Headscarves were woven of wool and woven of wool and linen. Later they were linen. Later they were also made of cotton.also made of cotton.

Winter scarvesWinter scarves

During the cold winter women wore During the cold winter women wore winter scarves. They were squared of winter scarves. They were squared of two colors and made of wool. two colors and made of wool.

SkirtsSkirts

Skirts were usually patterned with fine checkers. It appears that the oldest color combinations in use there were similar to those in Aukštaitija, red and green combinations were enriched with one or two additional colors. Later, the checkers of skirts become finer and new color combinations of dark red and violet appeared. 

BodicesBodices

Women sewed their Women sewed their bodices for special bodices for special occasions from occasions from purchased cloth purchased cloth (usually silk or wool). (usually silk or wool). Their favorite colors Their favorite colors were dark red, green, were dark red, green, blue and black. Most blue and black. Most typical bodices were typical bodices were sewn with four sewn with four gradually widening gradually widening laps, which did not laps, which did not meet in the front.meet in the front.

ApronsAprons

Earlier aprons in Earlier aprons in DzūkijaDzūkija were  were made of linen with white and made of linen with white and red or white and blue colored red or white and blue colored checkers. In the second half of checkers. In the second half of the nineteenth century, darker the nineteenth century, darker aprons, usually finely aprons, usually finely checkered or striped in red, checkered or striped in red, blue or brown hues came into blue or brown hues came into fashion. These were fashion. These were decorated with horizontally decorated with horizontally woven stripes of brightly woven stripes of brightly colored wool, and sometimes colored wool, and sometimes with finely textured overlayed with finely textured overlayed patterns on the lower edgespatterns on the lower edges..

SashesSashesThe small space on the waist The small space on the waist was left especially for a sash, was left especially for a sash, which remained an important which remained an important part of clothing in part of clothing in DzūkijaDzūkija for a  for a long time. Women wore sashes, long time. Women wore sashes, woven in pick-up patterns, and woven in pick-up patterns, and sometimes more modern sometimes more modern overlaid ones. Their geometric overlaid ones. Their geometric ornaments, which were of ornaments, which were of ancient origin, were usually red, ancient origin, were usually red, green, blue, or violet in color.green, blue, or violet in color.

ShirtsShirtsWomen's shirts were sewn and decorated like those inWomen's shirts were sewn and decorated like those in AukštaitijaAukštaitija. . They They had red woven-in pick-up patterns with a finer texture that was typical of had red woven-in pick-up patterns with a finer texture that was typical of textile decoration in textile decoration in DzūkijaDzūkija. After the mid-nineteenth century, white work . After the mid-nineteenth century, white work embroidery embroidery (broderie anglaise)(broderie anglaise) replaced this older style of decoration. The  replaced this older style of decoration. The parts of the shirts that could be seen from under the bodice wereparts of the shirts that could be seen from under the bodice were embroidered. These included the collar, shoulder tabs, chest and cuffs. embroidered. These included the collar, shoulder tabs, chest and cuffs. Plant patterns, along with this western European embroidery technique, Plant patterns, along with this western European embroidery technique, were often changed and reflected the influence of older local geometricwere often changed and reflected the influence of older local geometric ornamentsornaments. .

Men's shirts in the second half of the nineteenth century in Men's shirts in the second half of the nineteenth century in DzūkijaDzūkija were were rather densely decorated with white or colored embroidery. rather densely decorated with white or colored embroidery. 

PantsPants

Long pants were made of the same cloth, Long pants were made of the same cloth, from finely checkered grey, brown or dark from finely checkered grey, brown or dark wool, or of a half-woolen cloth.wool, or of a half-woolen cloth.

FootwearFootwear

The most valued women's footwear The most valued women's footwear inin DzūkijaDzūkija  was leather shoes. was leather shoes. However, fewer people here were However, fewer people here were able to afford them. Leather able to afford them. Leather soleless shoessoleless shoes  (naginės)(naginės)  were also were also less common than elsewhere. Bast less common than elsewhere. Bast shoes shoes (vyžos) (vyžos) were worn more were worn more commonly. Women also wore very commonly. Women also wore very unique shoes, the unique shoes, the čempėsčempės, which , which were crocheted from thick tow were crocheted from thick tow threads decorated with knitting of threads decorated with knitting of colored thread.colored thread.

CaftansCaftans

Women's caftans Women's caftans (sermėga)(sermėga)  were sewn widened were sewn widened at the bottom and were decorated with blackat the bottom and were decorated with black velvet or other dark cloth trim and decorativevelvet or other dark cloth trim and decorative threadthread..Men wore caftans Men wore caftans ((sermėga) sermėga) of undyed grey of undyed grey matted woolen cloth. These widened toward the matted woolen cloth. These widened toward the bottom and were decorated with darkbottom and were decorated with dark trim trim asas well as decorative threadswell as decorative threads. .

Fur coatsFur coats

FurFur coats were sewn from coats were sewn from white, yellowish or brownish white, yellowish or brownish sheepskin. Neck and sleeve sheepskin. Neck and sleeve flaps were made from the same flaps were made from the same sheepskin, just it had been sheepskin, just it had been curly and shorter hair wool.curly and shorter hair wool.

ReferencesReferences

http://www.virsuliskiu.vilnius.lm.lt/M9.htmhttp://www.virsuliskiu.vilnius.lm.lt/M9.htm

http://media.penki.lt/search.aspx?http://media.penki.lt/search.aspx?Lang=LT&Element=Media&Media=ReportLang=LT&Element=Media&Media=Report&TopicID=4&ReportID=2526&TopicID=4&ReportID=2526

http://gyvenimas.delfi.lt/style/article.php?http://gyvenimas.delfi.lt/style/article.php?id=9954611id=9954611

http://google.lt/vaizai/dzūkų tautiniai rubai/http://google.lt/vaizai/dzūkų tautiniai rubai/