May june 2015

Gardening from Scratch

New Ways with Old

Favourites

Focus on Biodiversity

ISSUE 5/6 May / June 2015

Black Witch-hazel

IN THIS ISSUE

DESIGN 8 Gardening from Scratch 34 Screening Traffic16 New Ways with Old Favourites

PLANT LIBRARY20 Gems of the Hinterland - Bowkeria14 Black Witch-hazel

ENVIRONMENT22 Maintaining your Indigenous Garden24 Fascinating Life - Biovidersity38 Understanding Nitrogen Fixing

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Wildlife30 In Pursuit of Butterflies33 Woolly Legs - a tiny carnivorous butterfly

MAY - June

MAGAZINE PRODUCTION:Editor: Anno TorrContact us: [email protected] Publisher: The Indigenous Gardener Contributing writers: Anno Torr, Jenny Dean, Photographers: Anno Torr, Andrea Abbott, Jenny Dean, Jane Troughton, James Halle, Some image via Wikicommons, acknowledgement given; Graphic Design: digitlab and Anno Torr Disclaimers and Copyrights: Opinions expressed in this magazine do not reflect those of The Indigenous Gardener or any project related to The Indigenous Gardener. Whilst every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, The Indigenous Gar-dener cannot be held liable for inadvertent mistakes. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written consent of the publisher.

CONTACT US: Editor: 8 [email protected]( 0726025610Advertising: 8 Veronica: [email protected]: 8 Hermes: [email protected]

REGULARS 5 May Task Card 6 What’s In Flower 7 June Task Card

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Dear Readers,

We’ve gone a bit butterfly mad this month after taking part in the Autumn LepiBash. 77 citizen scientists participated uploading a total of 1633 records. As the world focused for a day on biodiversity (World Biodiversity Day, 22nd May 2015), it seems fitting that I watched a dew fresh butterfly emerge from its chrysalis. There is a good chance she will mate on her first day, lay a few eggs, then die within the month. With a bit of luck, an egg will hatch, and the caterpillar will successfully pupate after eating it fill of your favourite plant’s leaves. Of course, there is every chance a bird could eat her. As so life cycles repeat themselves in every possible niche on earth – our fascinating world. Note: the newly hatched butterfly, was a Gaudy Commodore, reared through from a caterpillar found in the garden – but more about that in the July issue. (See our special preview alongside)

As mentioned in our email sent earlier this month, or ‘Shout Out’ to use current marketing parlance, we have decided to change the magazine format to 8 issues per year. This will give our small team the time to uncover further inspiring indigenous ideas from other regions of our vast country – recently voted as the most beautiful country in the world! I do hope you all read the Shout Out, otherwise you will be wondering about the non-arrival of your May magazine).

So, until December, our publishing times are:

May/ June

July

Aug/ Sept

Oct

Nov/ Dec.

But we’ll pop a few extra pages into the issues that straddle the two months.

We would also like to engage more with our reader, and would love to hear about your indigenous garden; a small corner you especially love; your best bird tree; a combination that survives a frosty winter. I’ll leave it up to you. Drop me a note at [email protected].

Jenny is on a writing break this month although work continues, and we are off this coming week to the South Coast, which we will share with you in future editions.

Happy reading.

Enjoy!

Below: A fishing spider balances on a floaating grass frond, while on secure ground, a Natal Tree Frog balances on the lip of a window frame.

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FROM THE EDITORS DESK…

LETTERS TO THE EDITOR: Please contact us with any article ideas, queries or technological problems with the reading/ downloading of the magazine, feedback and [email protected]

TO ADVERTISEPLEASE CONTACT Veronica at:[email protected]

WE ARE A FREE PUBLICATION TO ALL READERS

Cover image: Vine-leaf Vagrant on Kalanchoe longiflora

QUICK LINKS: Click here for access to our website

www.theindigenousgardener.co.za

Feed/ Maintain: use organic fertilisers or compost• Feed and water winter- and spring- flowering bulbs• As the bulbs come up water more frequently, about once a week in the summer rainfall

areas• Cover ponds to stop too many autumn leaves from falling in• In frosty areas lay your mulch thickly and water at root level. Cover tender plants• This is the start of the dry period in the summer rainfall regions. Watch for water stress• Frosty areas - begin to protect frost tender shrubs and perennials

Prune/ Trim/ Deadhead: leave some flowers to set seed• In the warmer regions Plectranthus spp. can be pruned back quite hard• Remove the old foliage of Pelargonium spp.• Cut down flowering stems of Strelitzia as they finish flowering to continue the flower-

ing season. Otherwise leave on to attract insects and birds• Regularly dead-head all groundcovers and perennials but leave a few to set seed for

wildlife food and nesting material• There is still time to prune summer-flowering shrubs in the warmer regions if essen-

tial. Be careful of disturbing wildlife• Prune Aloe tenuior and Anisodontea scabrosa and Barleria obtusa

Propagate / Plant / Remove: • Take hardwood cuttings of shrubs and use prunings to propagate Plectranthus• Plant up baskets of indigenous colour: Dimorphotheca, Gazania, Felicia, Senecio,

Pelargoniums, Diascias and Helichrysum - summer rainfall regions should plant water-wise species as we head into the long dry period

MAY 2015

Othonna carnosaChlorophytum saundersiaeCrassula albaCrassula capitellaSenecio speciosusDimorphotheca species

Protea cynaroides (3)Croton gratissimusLeonotis leonurus (1)Aloe arborescens (4)Tephrosia grandifloraSyncolostemon species

Halleria lucidaBulbine narcissifoliaDombeya burgessiaeAloe tenuior (2)Plectranthus fruticosusAristida junciformis

WHAT’S INFLOWER

Autumn’s end

Pests and Diseases: Be on the look out for: • Snails on Clivia and other soft leaved perennials• Borere beetles will be active on fig trees• Aphids on new growth

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It seems winter has yet to hit the interior of SA, but, as June arrives, beware of sudden frosts! Make sure your frost protection measures are in place. Winter rain storms should be wetting the Western Cape, but East Coast gardens are bone dry! These extremes of winter give us the opportunity to check protective soil cover, wind barriers and planting positions.

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WHAT’S IN FLOWER?

TREES:Bersama lucensCroton gratissimus (1)Deinbolia oblongifoliaEuclea natalensisHalleria lucidaNuxia floribundaRapanea melanophloeosRauvolfia caffraTarchonanthus camphoratus

GRASSESAristida junciformisCymbopogon validusMelinis nerviglumis

SHRUBS: Agathosma capensis (9)Aloe arborescensAloe microstigmaAloe pluridens(2)Barleria obtusaDombeya burgessiaeDuvernoia adhatodoides Euphorbia mauritanicaHypoestes aristataLeonotis leonurus (8)Plectranthus fruticosusPodalyria sericea (4)Tecoma capensisTephrosia inandensis

PERENNIALS/GC/ BULBS/Aloe cryptopodaBarleria repens Bulbine narcissifoliaChlorophytum saundersiaeClivia gardenii (5) Crassula alba (3)Crassula capitella (6)Dimorphotheca jucundaGazania rigensGeranium incanumKalanchoe thyrsifloraLachenalia speciesOthonna carnosa (7)Pelargonium reniforme

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4 5 6

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Feed/ Maintain: use organic fertilisers or compost• In frosty gardens water frosted plants before the sun hits them to prevent damage• Gardeners in summer rainfall regions will need to water plants originating from winter

rainfall regions• Keep beds well mulched and you will see the benefits as the dry season lengthens in

much of the country • Feed bulbs when buds appear and keep them well watered• In warmer areas watch pots for water stress as days can still be hot

Prune/ Trim/ Deadhead: leave some flowers to set seed• If re-shapeing creepers this month (the foliage thins out, enabling you to see the

structure more easily), keep a section untouched for wildlife protection through winter• Keep hollow and/or dead branches on trees and large shrubs - these will be used

as nesting sites for many birds and will bring in the insects, favoured food for many species

• Remove diseased wood only - but do not place on the compost heap• Can begin to prune Barleria obtusa, Hypoestes aristata and Plectranthus species• Vegetation often thins during winter, allowing one to see how much protective foliage

is available for wildlife over-wintering. What do you need to add to ensure this?

Propagate / Plant / Remove: • This is a good time to transplant larger trees and shrubs: deciduous species transplant

more easily now• Take hardwood cuttings of shrubs• Spring is the best time to take stem cuttings of succulents as their dormant period

ends. Remember to let the tips dry before pushing into the soil

JUNE 2015

Crassula ovataSenecio tamoidesCrotalaria capensisHaemanthus albiflos (2)Pelargonium reniformeGerbera ambigua

Aloe feroxAloe vanbaleniiClivia nobilisAloe marlothii (4)Kniphofia praecox (1)Bulbine natalensis

Bauhinia tomentosa (3)Grewia occidentalisOcimum labiatumIndigofera jucundaPolygala virgataTinnea barbata

WHAT’S INFLOWER

Winter begins

Pests and Diseases: Look out for:• Aphids on bulbous plants • Snails on Agapanthus and Clivia - don’t poison, merely lift by hand and place where

predators can get to them

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Set in an open expanse of ground and fringed in the distance by plantations and newly built homesteads, is a beautiful, indigenous garden. It is young, only seven

years old, and mature trees are yet to add their grandeur to the landscape, but a few mixed groups now grow in the open space on the northern edge. Dave and Jo retired to Hilton from the con-crete and tarred habitats of Johannesburg, and the lush greenery of their mistbelt garden is a treat.

Facing due east, it is a full-sun garden until late afternoon when the house casts its shadow over a small front section. Expect-ing a garden planted for frost, I was surprised to discover that frosty days are infrequent and no more than mild. Rain though is plentiful, often heavy, and in the early days the newly formed bank that graduates steeply down from the access road, bled its sandy, red soil onto the driveway below. A mix of fast growing shrubs, groundcovers and perennials now keep the soil in place for most of the year. Left: Watsonia pillansii

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This section of the estate was previously under sugar cane, and the new homeowners inherited impoverished soils, which they amended with large quantities of compost, Superphosphate and fertiliser. Placed just below the root ball this mix gave growing plants a secondary boost as the roots grew into this food sup-ply, and the size of the many shrubs shows the success of this method. A low fence and access gates divide the property into an inner and outer garden, keeping a couple of little Dachshunds away from the visiting wildlife – buck, porcupine and scrub hares. The inner section opens off the patio, and the design of the rest of the property ensures its privacy. Red brick pathways ensure a firm and level footing on the soft and often wet earth, and they form an attractive network around the entire garden.

Aside from its obvious beauty, what struck me most were the many practical examples of how we can design with nature in mind when solving tricky landscaping conundrums.

Screening: There are several shrubberies that perform various roles around the property.

The outrageous colour mix of pink flowering Syncolostmon densiflorus, and yellow flowers of Euryops pectinatus and Bauhinia tomentosa, greets the visitor at the garden gate. Although foliage is light and airy, it is enough to hint at a private enclosure beyond. This little corner is a nectar pantry. Thorn-croftia succulenta, Crassula multicava and Watsonia pillansii fill the space beneath the Daisy bushes, and a mixed shrubbery on the other side of the brick path, shields the view of the young forest beyond. Plectranthus, Dombeya burgessiae, Lasiosiphon triplinervis and Salvia dolomitica mingle with Pelargonium and Leonotus leonurus, and at this time of year, autumn shades of the Tarwood, Loxystyis alata, blaze red and russet in the sun-shine. This beautiful small tree is classified as Declining as the Muti trade threatens wild populations.

GARDENING FROM SCRATCH

An exuberant loose hedge screens the road at the top of a steep bank. Rather than a wall or fence alone, this living screen filters the wind, provides protection for birds and insects, and provides food. Bauhinia galpinii, Freylinia tropica, Buddleja auriculata (Weeping Sage) and Rhamnus prinoides (Blinkblaar) are hardy, fast growing plants for this purpose, but also provide shelter, berries and nectar for birds and insects. Plectranthus neochilus covers the ground in sunny spots at their feet.

A selection of smaller shrubs and perenni-als provide further low-level screening of the driveway track from house and front garden. More importantly, these lines of foliage reduce the temperature of the entrance paving and provide protective cover for birds, insects and reptiles from both weather and predators.

In the outer garden, covering half the width of the property, a line of evergreens, clothed from tree top to soil level, screens off the lowest section of the garden. It has formed behind it an exclusion zone of sorts, for though the compost heap is off to one side it hides most of the family’s daily activities from the view of wildlife on its other side. All of 30m long, the species mix is impressive; the Buddleja genus make excellent wildlife hedges and the three large species feature; Buddleja auriculata, B. salvifolia and B. saligna; Bauhinia galpinii (Pride of De Kaap), Grewia lasiocarpa (Forest Raisin) and G. occidentalis (Cross-ber-ry), Pavetta lanceolata (Forest Bride’s Bush), Croton gratissimus (Lavender Croton) and Dombeya burgessiae (Pink Wild Pear) make up the bulk. The Curry bush, Hypericum revolu-tum, anchors the screen, with several of them planted along its length, an impressive sight

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Top: View across the succulent bank; Left, top: Buddleja auriculata; Centre: Turrea obtusifolia; Right: Hypericum revolutum Below: the view from the entrance gate

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for those only familiar with it as an occasional shrub. A few of the shrubs provide understorey space at the edge of the shrub-bery alongside the brick path, in which Clivia, Plectranthus and other perennials shelter. Smaller shrubs hug the edges where space allows, increasing the diversity and depth of the hedge – the blue flowers of Tinnea barbata and gleaming white blooms of Turrea obtusifolia (Small Honeysuckle Tree) attract a variety of birds, butterflies and other insects; Indigofera micrantha (Forest Indigo) finds space in this mix. The shrubs have been planted close together in irregular clumps rather than a stright line, and the resultant depth of the foliage is critical in offering refuge to the larger animal species.

Planting a steep bank:

The bank at the back of the house requires robust plants able to withstand sandy, free-draining soils, baking day-long sun, and a steep situation. Succulents are the perfect choice for sloping sites as water run-off reduces the likelihood of wet feet, where many other species would require the water to sink in around the root ball. Vygie species in particular, are valuable succulents; origi-nating from hot, dry regions, they form thick mats that carpet the soil, helping to retain soil moisture and prevent wind erosion. The top of the bank is drier and hotter than the lower sections, so aloes and vygies on it upper reaches, and the sun-loving Plectranthus on the bottom sections makes good design sense. Gravity pulls water down the slope to pool on the flat ground ad-jacent to the driveway, and here, Plectranthus hereoensis (Harero Spurflower), P. hadiensis, and P. ambiguus are in flower.

The extensive bank is a well-designed mix of diverse planting groups; Helichrysum petiolare and Dietes grandiflora, whose quick growth provided rapid soil cover, are interspersed with Carissa macrocarpa and Aloe ferox along one of the steeper gradients. This is a no-nonsense group of plants chosen for fast growth and thick cover that would survive with very little input. An im-pressive spread of Bauhinia galpinii hides the house from the rest of the estate. Where the slope flattens out is an extensive block of Plectranthus hadiensis – breathtaking in flower. I have seen little

Top: Tough plants for a steep dry bank; Plectranthus hadiensis is in the foreground; Above: Delosperma is a very successful groundcover hereBelow: A mix of succulents thrive on the hot, dry slope.

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of this Plectranthus species in urban gardens, and its beauty and versatility is a delight. It joins others of the Sage family - Salvia, Syncolostemon, Thorncroftia, Leonotis and Plectranthus – to create a few quite beautiful combinations.

To survive life on a sun-baked slope plants must be drought-hardy with roots that dig in and hold fast in soils that can move in rain and wind. Rhanmus prinoides and Carissa macrocarpa have deep roots systems that anchor the top section, and thick foli-age intercepts the raindrops, so they fall softly to wet the soils. Leonotis leonurus(Wild Dagga), Eriocephalus africana and a few aloes fill spaces lower down the bank, with Plectranthus neocholis, Gazania rigens and Geranium incanum knitting it all together. The groundcovers has just stopped flowering, but the brilliant orange flowering spikes of the Wild Dagga were just forming, and the autumn show will be spectacular. Agapanthus praecox and Strelit-zia reginae have strong, fleshy roots that reach deep into the soils for moisture, and, together with Cotyledon orbiculata and Gardenia shrubs keep the slope secure. The shallow roots of Dietes grandi-flora secure the top soil layer.

Bauhinia galpinii makes another appearance as a privacy hedge, and below it, Helichrysum petiolare has covered the sizeable

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space quickly.Planting combinations:

Lasiosiphon triplinervis (previously a member of the Gnidia genus): this is a delightful garden shrub that never fails to attract atten-tion. Despite being easy to grow the shrub is not available in most of our indigenous nurseries. This multi-stemmed shrub is a South African endemic from the coastal grasslands of the Eastern Cape and Southern KwaZulu-Natal. It is relatively frost resistant and has a long flowering period from August to May though I have seen it flower year round in the Midlands area of KZN. Lasiosiphon is an excellent frost hardy garden plant: its growth habit in the wild is quite variable, but garden specimens usually form neat, round balls of between 1 and 1.5 m. Flowers are butter yellow, with five petals and clustered at the tip of each stem. They attract small insects, including bees, and entomolo-gists suspect the flowers are pollinated by flies. A specialist indigenous nursery is the best place to source this lovely shrub.

Lasiosiphon grows alongside the versatile Plectranthus hadiensis, or Hairy Spurflower. There are three geographical variations of this species, but P. hadiensis var. hadiensis is found through Gauteng, KwaZulu-Natal, Limpopo and Mpumalanga. In this Midlands garden, the 1,5m high shrubs thrive in full sun on the steep bank, but this species grows as easily in partial to light shade. At this time of the year, the flowering display is outstand-ing; mauve and white flowers stand well above the foliage, 50 cm long and cover the bush from April to June. The Hairy Spurflower is just as attractive out of season with bright green leaves and serrated edges. When trimmed at the end of winter, the foliage grows thick and compact. The natural distribution is forest and open grassland, often found around rocks. Plectranthus

Opposite page, top left: Helichrysum, Cotyledon and Eriocephalus; Top centre: Plectranthus eckonii and Syncolostemon densiflorus are stunning against the grey Buddjeja leaves. Bottom left: A bank of Bauhinia galpinii and Helichrysum petiolare;Bottom Centre: Rhamnus prinoides, Wild Dagga, Wild Rosemary, Carissa and flowering aloesBottom right: Soft yellow hues of Lasiosiphon triplinervis

hadiensis requires very little maintenance other than a yearly trim after flowering, but does best in high rainfall, frost-free areas, but it may survive a light frost. Rain or irrigation soon revives a wilting plant in a dry season. Propagation is quite successful via cuttings. Frost area gardeners could replace the Plectranthus with other species from the Sage family; Thorncroftia succulenta (Rock Sage), Syncolostemon transvaalensis (Pink Salvia -protect young plants against frost,) or Salvia dolomitica.

Salvia dolomitica, Dolomite or Pilgrim’s Rest Pink Sage, is one of the most beautiful shrubs for frost area and frost free gardens alike. It ticks a number of boxes on a typical gardener’s plant list: fast growing, frost and drought hardy, small to medium size (1 – 2m high), with a long flowering season from September to February. As a member of the Sage (LAMIACEA) family, the grey leaves are typically aromatic, an evolutionary protection against pests, and provide a beautiful contrast to the more common garden greens. I love it placed close to the similarly grey greens of the White Lady, Cotyledon orbiculata, and it makes a fresh and unusual combination alongside the bright green and yellow La-siosiphon. The Salvia is pollinated by bees but attracts birds and other insects too. It does best in well-drained soils with handfuls of compost. Pruning at the end of winter prevents woody growth and helps to reinvigorate the shrub.

Injecting vibrant colour into this grey/ mauve display, are the bright pink and magenta flowers of Syncolostemon densiflorus, fresh and the suble grey leaves of Salvia dolomitica. The Pink Plume flowers profusely from mid-summer through to winter and flowers attract nectar loving birds and butterflies, the Swallow-

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tails in particular. It is endemic to South Africa, occurring in the Eastern Cape and KZN, from the coast up to 1000m. It will take a light frost, but can be pruned back at the end of winter if frost damaged. The Pink Plume prefers full sun and is a perfect small shrub (between 1 – 2m) for grasslands and open areas close to forest and woodland margins. Plectranthus ecklonii is another surprise, thriving in full sunshine in the driveway border. Though these shrubs are past their prime in early May, the flowers make for an uncommon combination with the sun-loving Sage family.

In the front garden, a dazzling silver sheen draws the eye to the end of the brick path; a wild bank of silver-grey leafed Heli-chrysum petiolare (Everlasting) and grey and white of the Wild Rosemary, Eriocephalus africanus, is almost blinding. Against this background the bright pink and deep purple flowers of Plectran-thus ekclonii and Syncolostemon densiflorus are stunning! With Pavetta lanceolata close-by, sunbirds and insects are kept busy. This small clump stands at the lower end of the steps up to the inner garden, and at the top of the bank along the inner-garden fence, the deep blue cones of Pycnostachys urticifolia (Blue Boy) brings some calm to show. But not for long, for a bed of pink and cerise Pelargonium reniforme (Kidney-leaved Pelargo-nium) greets you on the other side of the fence!

It has the feel of a charming county-side garden, away from noise and bustle, with an expansive blue sky above and wide spaces around it. There are almost too many cameos and gar-den rooms to mention here, but its beauty, design and wonderful variety of plant material have created a space enjoyed as much by local wildlife as it is by the homeowners themselves – and our readers too.

Top right: Plectranthus ecklonii mixes with the grey leaves of Salvia dolomitica; Centre: Intense pinks of Pelargonium reniformeBelow: Bright orange aloe flowers against the blue sky and blue shades of Plectranthus; Below right: A wildlife shrubbery with Buddleja auricu-lata, Pelargonium and Plectranthus species, Lasiosiphon triplinervis, with the autumn colour of the Tarwood, Loxostylis alata.Previous page: Top: Salvia dolomitica; Centre: flower of Plectranthus hadiensis; Bottom: Plectranthus hadiensis and Lasiosiphon triplinervis make for a stunning combination

New Ways with Old FavouritesBarleria obtusa has been a perennial favourite for years but

gardeners have recently overlooked this scrambling shrub in favour of ‘neater’ choices. While gardeners prize the

Bush Violet for the gorgeous shade of blue flowers, many small garden owners now consider its growth too rampant. And per-sistent – little Barlerias pop up all over the place, and, if left too long, can be difficult to pull out!

The cascading growth is not difficult to control; the secret, and this goes for any plant, is to place it where it fits! When given sufficient space to spread during the flowering season, and gently restrained through the rest of the year, this generous shrub showers us with flowers throughout autumn and into winter, and grows back quickly, and with a lovely form, after a hard prune.

The assets of this beauty are currently on show in a Hillcrest garden, and its companions in this loose hedge make for a breathtaking display. The pale blue flowers of Plumbago auricu-lata intermingle with bright purple bells of Barleria repens, an outstanding pink flowering form of Barleria obtusa, and white foxglove flowers of Asystasia gangetica.

All species have a somewhat scrambling growth habit, and the simultaneous flowering of this mix makes this shrubbery easy to maintain – just cut back hard after flowering, at the end of autumn or winter. Give a good feed in summer to encourage au-tumn flowers, and trim lightly the rest of the year if you prefer a neat hedge. Make sure the last trim is no later than mid-summer otherwise you cut off developing buds. Plant this mix to edge a

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path, to screen off a section of the garden or scramble down a bank – any situation where you can enjoy the autumn beauty daily.

Barleria obtusa grows very well in full sun and semi- shaded conditions and is valued as a plant for tough situations. While a summer rainfall plant, it thrives in the Western Cape if planted in well-draining soils. The Bush Violet copes with a light frost. The blue form is the most common one grown around the country, but a pale pink form is also available. If you come across this colour form, collect a few long pieces, as the plant is easy to propagate from stem cuttings.

Plumbago flowers profusely between November and May, al-though a few flowers can make an appearance through the year. It makes a good companion to the Barleria as it responds well to pruning; as flowers grow on new wood, the Plumbago flowers better after a heavy prune. Plumbago is somewhat frost tender but will quickly re-grow if damaged. This shrub spreads

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by suckering shoots, so watch out for any unwanted growth!Barleria repens is a smaller shrub that happily clambers up a supporting plant, and purple flowers will pop up through the mix from February to May. New plants root where stems touch the ground, but can be controlled.

Asystasia gangetica is lovely fast-growing, spreading groundcover able to climb into surrounding foliage. White to mauve Foxglove flowers cover the plants from spring into winter and attract bees, butterflies and other insects. Preferring semi- to light shade, it does well in sunny spots with sufficient moisture. Those with small gardens should contain this combination to the top three species, as the Creeping Foxglove spreads too quickly in small gardens

Barleria obtusa and Carissa macrocarpa:

For much of the year, Carissa macrocarpa, the Natal Plum, is a large and solid mass of dark green. Once it has attained full height, the shrub provides effective security, a few lovely white flowers and red fruits, but a seasonal splash of bright colour would not go amiss! Why not plant Barleria obtusa to wind its way through the tangled stems? From April to June, bells of blue will tumble over the thorny foliage in eye-catching colour. Blue flowers show up well against the dark green of the Carissa leaves and bright red fruit, and cascading stem can be cut back when flowering ends. Carissa macrocarpa is a strong grower provid-ing a backbone for this lax scrambler, but the Barleria should not take over if pruned back each year. For those growing the dwarf variety, ‘Green Carpet’, the shrub in this photo is that same variety, and is at least 2m high! How to tell the difference? The fruits of the Green Carpet are smaller than those of the original species, C. macrocarpa. Commonly found on sand dunes and in coastal bush, it is frost tender, but will survive a light frost if it is well protected.

Top Right and below: Richly coloured fruits of Carissa ‘Green Carpet’ show off the blue/ mauve bells of Barleria obtusa. Top right: Hairtail sp. on Carissa fruit; Above right: thorns of the ‘Green Carpet’;

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“Take a closer look through our windows and discover something new at every glance ...” Clanwilliam Wild Flower Show, one of the most well-known flower shows in South Africa, once again takes place in Clanwilliam’s Flower Church, situated in the historical hub of the town in the Main Road. Visitors can experience this display of more than 400 species of freshly picked wildflowers, many of which grow nowhere else in the world, carefully and creatively arranged in a landscape exhibit under one roof. This year’s theme is “Windows ...” and flower enthusiasts are invited to come and take a closer look through our windows and discover something new at every glance.

The Clanwilliam Wild Flower Show opens its doors to the public from August 27th until September 5th. Tickets range from R10 for children, R35 for pensioners to R50 for adults. For more information about the show, as well as flower season activities, contact the tourism office at (027) 482 2024 or visit www.clanwilliamwildfloweshow.co.za and like us on Facebook Clanwilliam Wildflower Festival.

-Ends-

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Issued by : Clanwilliam Wild Flower Society Esther Steens Tel: (027) 482 2024 / e-mail: [email protected] For more information please contact: Clanwilliam Tourism Association ` E-mail: [email protected] Tel: (027) 482 2024 Date: March 2015

Jenny Dean Wildflowers

We create indigenous wildlife-friendly gardens that are peaceful, waterwise sanctuaries filled with colour.

• Residential gardens big and small • Housing developments/ Office parks• Structured to suit needs and budget• Hourly consultations

PLANT NURSERY CONSULTATIONSLANDSCAPINGCONTACT: Jenny Dean | 082 4694686 | [email protected]

A6 flyer aloe xylotheca.indd 3 2015/03/26 10:38:27 AM

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Gems from the HinterlandTHE BOWKERIA SPECIES ARE BEAUTIFUL FLOWERING SHRUBS FOR INLAND GARDENS.

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The Bowkeria genus is a small group of shrubs and trees that celebrate the contributions of South African naturalist and plant collector, James Bowker, to South African botany.

Only three species occur in South Africa, with Bowkeria citrina being a South African endemic. The flowers of all three species form an unusually shaped pouch with small oil hairs at the base of the flowers that secret oil to attract pollinators.

Bowkeria citrina: citrina refers to the lemon yellow flowers. Geelskulpblombos. The Yellow Shell-flower is a rare shrub (only 5 known population groups still existing in the wild) with a narrow distribution range along the mountainous border of north-west KZN and Mpuma-langa. For those who know the area well, between Groenvlei, Wakkerstroom and Luneburg.

Description: the Yellow Shell-flower is a gorgeous medium-sized shrub, usually forming multiple stems that grow straight and tree-like up to 3m, it is a neat and slender shrub for small gardens. Leaves are long and slender (40-7- x 7-11mm) and grow in whorls of 3 – 4. The olive green leaves are smooth or hairy with slightly raised conspicuous yellow veins on the under-side, and margins are usually entire but when young, are often finely scalloped. Tiny glands cover the leaf surface, and these exude a faint lemon verbena scent when crushed, the only one of the South African species with this characteristic.

The bright yellow flowers are typical of the ACROPHULARIACEAE family, large and pouch-like, with a narrow slit mouth, and they cover the foliage anytime between November and June. Between one and three flowers cluster on the leaf axils and are followed from February through May, by small brown fruits that split into two valves to release fine, dust-like seeds. The oil-collecting bee, Rediviva rufocincta, pollinates Bowkeria citrina; they use specialised setae on their forelegs to collect oil from the many oil-secreting hairs on the inner surface of the flower. Oil is then transferred to the hind legs and carried to the bee hive as larval food. Propagate Bowkeria citrina using 10 cm long cuttings; keep them moist until new green shoots appear.

The natural habitats range from forest edges, along stream banks and on rocky hillsides and cliff edges on cool slopes, between 1400 and 1800 m. A rather slow growing shrub, it prefers cooler climates with plenty of rainfall. Both drought and the high coastal humidity will kill this species, and although enjoying partial shade at a forest edge, the Yellow Shell-flower thrives in full sunshine.

Bowkeria verticillata: the white flowering Southern Shell-flower (Suidelike Skulpblombos,) is another higher altitude frost-hardy species, ranging through the KwaZulu-Natal uplands, Free State, Lesotho and the Eastern Cape. Natural habitats are similar to the Yellow Shell-flower, along forest edges, among evergreen scrub, and along water courses. This is a variable shrub or small tree, growing to between 3 and 5m high. Leaves are stiff, dark green, with a patterned surface variously described as corrugated or quilted. Fragrant flowers grow in pairs close to the tips of stems between November and January and are relatively large at 20mm in size. Their sticky surface is an iden-tifiable characteristic. Dense foliage from ground level makes it an excellent privacy screen candidate though the growth rate is on the slow side at only 50cm a year in areas receiving good rains. I have only encountered these shrubs in Mistbelt gardens in Pietermaritzburg, Hilton, and the Drakensberg

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Maintaining the Indigenous GardenRemember the days when the size of the flower beds in your

childhood gardens seemed to increase magically in size after the gardener’s visit? This was an old method used by

many labourers to neaten the beds. I find myself doing the same thing today, but there is a different purpose behind my activities; larger flower bed = more diversity = smaller lawn!

How we maintain a garden affects its ability to function as a healthy habitat – and it is the ‘why’ that governs the ‘how’.During a talk I gave a few months ago, my take on indigenous garden maintenance raised a few eyebrows. However, bare with me.

We expend most of our time and energy on this single aspect of the world’s favourite hobby, and I suspect the hard physical labour and the sense of control are two reasons why gardening is so popular. However, garden maintenance needs a new ap-proach; we need to change the purpose behind these rules that are such an important part of modern landscape design.

Maintenance issues:

Pruning: In nature, the pruning of plants is a natural result of being eaten by the local wildlife. The gardener, on the other hand, prunes

for other reasons: it is too close to a building; too large for its space; needs to look neat; is part of a formal design. The ability to prune a plant, while benefiting its growth, also releases the gardener from the problem of planting something in too small a space; just prune to fit. This activity has also enabled the over-used formal look of little-boxed hedges, topiaries and lollipops, all of which need frequent clipping to retain this neat shape. If not done correctly, at the right time, and with a beneficial pur-pose in mind, pruning can interfere with a plant’s flowering and fruiting season, thus taking it off the wildlife menu. This constant attention either harms or frightens away the wildlife – chame-leons, for example, are often killed when shrubs are clipped. Instead, choose naturally neat plants to limit the amount of clip-ping needed; try Barleria albostellata, Freylinia tropica, Pavetta lanceolata, Halleria elliptica, Salvia dentata, Polygala fruticosa, Tinnea barbata, Anisondontea scabrosa and Myrsine africana. We covered this topic in the early days of the magazine, will do so again in a couple of months.

Deadheading is another form of pruning and is done to encourage another flush of flowers and to take off the unsightly dead flower heads. Leonotis Leonurus attracts a range of nectar feeders – birds and insects – and if flowering stems are cut down as they go over, the shrubs do send up new flower-

ing shoots and extends the feeding season. But too rigorous dead-heading prevents flowers from setting seed to be dispersed by animals and wind, and from which new vigorous plants will grow, replacing aging specimens. So be restrained in your trimming of flowering plants, for although the flowers die off once nectar and pollen are over, the plants life cycle is not over! Animals eat a variety of plant seeds, even those too small for us to see, like the Plectranthus species, and soft, fluffy seeds are often collected to line nests.

Weeding: Yes, we need to keep our gardens clear of weeds, but ‘overweeding’ can lead to the removal of wild indigenous species seeded from nearby natural areas. It is important for us to learn which common invasive species grow in our regions and remove them immediately. Keep a watch too, on the growth of the unknowns, and take a photo for identification purposes if you are concerned. There are knowledgeable nurserymen and website to help you. I recently discovered I had been pulling out Triumfetta rhomboidea or Small-fruit Bur, used as a host plant by the Yellow-banded and Dancing Acraeas, and Forest Sandman. It is also an excellent nectar plant; not the prettiest garden plant, it now grows undisturbed in the back garden. Sticky Acanth, Phaulopsis imbricata germinated in the shade, and this little spot is now a favourite spot with the Common Mother-of-Pearl.

Tidying up and removing fallen leaves from beds and shady floors, takes away habitat in which worms and other insects live. This interferes with the feeding habits of ground-foraging birds, snakes, frogs and toads, and even snails, many of which live on forest edges. By all means, sweep leaves off sealed and hard surfaces like patios, driveways and decking but spread them directly on flower beds or under shrubs as moisture retentive mulch. They will soon decompose and feed the plants.

Fertilising: the safest way to keep garden plants well fed is to use home-made compost. The over-use of inorganic – even organic - fertilisers high in nitrogen and phosphate has caused widespread poisoning of our water systems. Adding a thick layer to garden beds and around shrubs and trees, a couple of times a year, is all that is needed! Previous page: Fluffy seeds are used to line nests. Below : TheTerrestrial Brownbul is attracted to gardens with thick foliage where it overturns leaf litter for food. (It rests here on a rearview mirror of a little orange mini)

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The dead skeleton of a Milkweed is used by birds as a viewing perch. Spiders spin webs across the stems and and bark threads are collected to build nests.

Mother-of-Pearl butterfly on host plant, Phaulopsis imbricata

Triumfetta rhomboidea, weeded out by most gardeners, is a butterfly host plant

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FASCINATING LIFEAbundant, complex and ever-changing, this staggering variety gives life to all on our planet.

From the Snow Leopards of the Himalayas to the Blue Whales that cruise the oceans; from the Crowned Eagle keeping watch for prey from the tallest tree, down to the

microscopic bacteria living on the tree’s roots, life on our planet is abundant, complex and ever-changing. This staggering variety is what constitues biodiversity.

This includes, on a broad scale: • All of the species on the planet (Plants, animals, micro-organ-isms)• The genetic variation within each species (a variety of genes creates stable populations and ecosystems. It also reduces the chances of extinction making a population better able to recover from disasters.) • The wide range of habitats and ecosystems in which they all live. Smaller isolated habitats reduce the interactions between population groups which has the effect of reducing the gene pool and increasing the chances of extinction. Diverse and complex habitats create a natural redundancy at both plant and animal level.

Plants are one of the most important components of biodiversity as they create the structure of most habitats, home to communi-ties of species that interact with each other and their environ-ment. Plants are the only organisms to absorb the sun’s energy and turn it into food for all other creatures. In this way, they sus-tain, directly (organisms that eat plants) or indirectly (organisms that eat other organisms that eat plants), all life on the planet.

In the fight for survival, an abundance of organisms evolved to fill particular niches within habitats, each one living and interact-ing in slightly different ways. Each species is a necessary part of their community – the greater the diversity, the more resilient the ecosystem as it is better able to withstand outside threats. Within each habitat a diversity of animals creates a redundancy of species that carry out similar functions, so with the loss of one species, another is there to fill that role. This implies a need to protect habitats and ecosystems, rather than single species, for changes to the circumstances of one species affects that of oth-ers living in that habitat. These effects filter through the food web (either up or down) to other species within the habitat – known as a trophic cascade.

In many habitats, the loss of one important community mem-ber, a keystone species, triggers an immediate and often rapid decline of its ecosystem.

Research over the years suggests the larger the area, the more the species that live there. From a gardener’s perspective, the more connecting gardens providing habitat, the more species they can support. When these groups of garden habitats link with the various natural areas still available, they improve the overall health of ecosystems and the efficiency of the services they provide us. Equally important, research suggests, is that the number of animals living within a particular habitat corre-sponds with the diversity of plant species growing there. So, for

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Community: Communities in nature are convenient groupings of different organisms often found together in the same place at the same time, in which there are connecting food webs and chains of dependency.

Trophic: ‘Of or involving the feeding habits or relationships of different organisms in a food chain or food web.”

We should preserve every scrap of biodiversity as priceless while we learn to use it and come to under-stand what it means to humanity.

E. O. WilsonBiologist, researcher, theorist, naturalist and author

a garden, or net of gardens, to support the diversity of animal life in an area, they need to carry a diversity of plant species.

Habitats: The plants that grow in an area largely determine the habitat types available for the local animals. The more habitats there are the more diversity of plants and animals that interact in those areas. But this happy medium is only achieved with the correct plants, so don’t include exotic species when adding up the total number of species in your garden. To paraphrase Doug Tallamy: “The benefits of diversity are not realised unless each species is a functioning member of a habitat, able to interact with other members.” Exotic species merely take up space and use up resources. “If a plant has not fed something, it has not done its job, says Doug.

For the most part, plants growing in a garden are not found together in nature, but a garden can develop into a small com-munity, able to provide the same biological roles that wild com-munities perform within natural ecosystems. The success of this garden community in providing those habitats determines the diversity and numbers of animals able to live alongside us. Be-cause as we are the ones choosing, placing, pulling out plants, and maintaining the habitats in which they grow, we decide the fate of animals within our gardens orbit! Moreover, this orbit is often worldwide; man species use gardens offering correct habitats as stepping stones along their migratory routes. Without these pit-stops, many are simply unable to survive the long trip.

How does the gardener design for diversity in their garden?The best way to include a variety of species in the garden is by creating a mix of interconnected habitats. Open sunny areas like grassland, mixed beds, succulent rockeries and shrubberies, can border a wildlife pond and shady copse. Boundary hedges and screens, rather than bare walls and fences, are excellent areas in which to squeeze a great diversity of shrubs and small trees without taking up too much space. A shade tree or three with suitable understory shrubs and groundcovers, or even a woodland along the western boundary provide for yet other specialist species. All habitats provide nest building materials if not tidied away – seeds, old wood, mud, grasses, leaves,

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Above: Layered undergrowth of flowers and grasses provieds for a variety of birds and insects

Open area nectar plants

Grass seeds and nectar plants feed a bigger variety of wildlife

Flowering plants close to a water source attract insects for frogs and dragonflies

spider webs. To have the charismatic creatures in our gardens, birds and butterflies, for example, we need to provide one of the most common and highly nutritious food source eaten by all – insects. And, where do many insects live? They live in and feed off old and dead wood, fallen leaf litter, compost heaps, old seed heads, fungus and soil. Insects are the most diverse and mobile, so numerous because they can fit into the smallest of niches. Many also change form through their life-cycles (larva – nymph – adult,) each form making use of different niches, habitats and resources to the previous form, expanding the habitats in which they can survive, but also needing each habitat in order to complete their life cycles. Plus, many have wings, carrying them long distances in the search for food, mates, resources and to escape predators.

Plan for various species behaviours and requirements:

• Butterflies need sunny areas. They love hill-topping when look-ing for a partner or defending their territory, and need to warm their bodies for flight. Larger birds need space to land and for-age, and from where they can spot potential danger.

• Grasses not only provide food for the little seed-eaters, but birds like the weavers use grass to build nests. Other creatures, like chameleons, grasshoppers, beetles and others, nest in the thick matt close to ground level, or along the grass stem. These species like to feed in open areas but nest and rest in a protec-tive shrubbery close- by. So provide for this by placing a wild grass and wildflower meadow close to a group of shrubs.

• While tangled and thorny branches are favoured nesting sites because they provide a secure platform, concealment from predators, especially terrestrial predators, is one of the most important factors that determine the position of a nest. So create layers of shrubs, tall to short, and add a mix of perennials and groundcovers, to help conceal these nests.

• Many bird species, like the Southern Black Tit, wood owls, Narina Trogon, starlings, and hoopoes, nest in cavities created in rock faces, old tree trunks, and even house walls.

• Snakes, bushbabies, bats and genets also take shelter in these spaces. Dry stack walls or stone walls create gaps as plaster ages and breaks up, and will have lizards and insects

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Yellow Pansy Everlastings (Helichrysum spp. are a favourite with bees

Leaf litter and thick vegetation offer protection to ground foraging birds like Robins and Thrush.

Skinks and lizards love holes in walls

The hated grasshoppers are an important source of food for urban wildlife

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moving in – and birds coming to excavate for food.

• Many gregarious bird species, the Common Bulbul comes to mind, are often seen in urban gardens, and it is easy to cater for these un-fussy groups. However, others, like the Cuckoo family, are shy and prefer to forage in the leaf mulch on forest and woodland floors, close to a ground-level shrub for protection. Many remain hidden as they call from behind the leaves of shrubs and trees. One of their favoured trees is the Trema orientalis. Trunks and branches crawls with the larvae of a tiny beetle, and the cuckoos are often seen at this time, searching for caterpillars under the loose bark. The Cuckoo family is an excellent example of community living, for it is a brood parasite, laying eggs in the nests of other birds. For cuckoos to be present, each species host bird should be too; Klaas’s Cuckoo makes use of Olive Sunbird and Cape Batis nests, and the Cape Robin-Chat hosts eggs and babies of the Red-chested Cuckoo (Piet-my-vrou).

Supportive connections between communities of species sharing a habitat are fascinating:

• Uninformed gardeners routinely poison aphids, yet they are a protein-rich food source for the small insectivorous birds like White-eyes and warblers.

• The Cotton Stainers are tiny insects that suck sap from seed heads and stems of plants, and seems to prefer the Hibiscus family, of which the well-known cotton plant is a member. South African species from this family include Turraea obtusifolia, Pavonia praemorsa, Anisodontea scabrosa and Hibiscus pedunculatus.

• The millipede Assassin feeds exclusively on millipedes, and the Pill Mil-lipedes feed on algae and other detritus rife on forest floors and the trunks of forest trees.

• The smaller dung beetles, seen in gardens on the east coast, gather rolled balls of bushbuck and vervet monkey dung. The seeds of this tree are a favourite food of many birds and mammals, and the plant has evolved a sure-fire way to attract the attention of wild animals for seed dispersal. Each seed it attached to a bright orange aril easily seen by monkeys and bushbuck, and these orange threads cling to the surface of the dung balls. In this way, both mammals, birds and beetles help in the dispersal of the seed.

• The small family of carpenter bees are often seen hovering around the flowers of Polygala, Thunbergia and Calpurnia species, but they also require dry wood or hollow plant stem in which to nest and lay eggs.

Some activities, cursed by some gardeners, but loved by the wildlife gardener, signal the presence of particular spe-cies.

• If there are holes in your Arum leaves, look closely and you may see larvae of the Hawk Moth. The defoliation of the wide-ranging Wild Peach, Kiggelaria africana, has the experienced indigenous gardener looking for the small black caterpillar of the Acraea horta or A. igola butterflies. The small, rather unattractive caterpillar of the Blood-Red Acraea species can strip the leaves of the Dogrose, Xylotheca kraussiana, but often, the shrubs reaction is to grow faster and produce even bushier growth. This is an important host plant for the butterfly and a beautiful shrub in any garden.

• The well-known Monarch butterfly larvae feed on the Milkweed plants, absorbing in this stage, the poisonous chemicals from the plant, and passing it onto the adult butterfly as a protective measure against natural predators. The intense black and orange colouration of this and many other species is common among the species feeding on the many dicoty-ledonous plants, the oldest group of plants on the planet.

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Monarch butterfly in the act of laying an egg.

Larvae of the Hawk Moth

Larvae of the Gaudy Commodore butterfly on flow-ers of the host plant, Plectranthus hereoensis

Pill Millipede

White-barred Emperor © Andrea AbbottGreen Wood-hoopoes dig for caterpillars in loose

bark of Trema orientalis

Cotton Stainer bug on Plectranthus species

One of the many spider species carrying eggs

Carpeter Bee on Barleria obtusa

Larvae of the Monarch butterfly

Monarch butterfly in the act of laying an egg.

Larvae of the Hawk Moth

Larvae of the Gaudy Commodore butterfly on flow-ers of the host plant, Plectranthus hereoensis

White-barred Emperor © Andrea Abbott

• The White-barred Emperor butterfly, Charaxes brutus natalensis, is often seen in gardens close to natural forests. The host plants of the butterfly larvae are large forest trees, Forest Mahogany, Trichilia dregeana, and the Thorny-elm, Chaetacme aristata. While they may not be present in your garden, the presence of the butterflies means these trees are nearby.

• The Black-headed Dwarf Chameleon is a good example of the need for mixed habitats; it requires patches of scattered bush clumps of mixed shrubs, edged with wild grasses. They nest in shrubs and need flowering shrubs to attract their primary food source, insects.

• In the leaf litter on forest floors, you’ll find many frogs, like the Bush Squeakers and Guttural Toads. The Forest Tree Frog lives in the upper canopies of trees, in particular, the foliage of the Wild Banana. The Green Mamba cottoned onto this and is often found here hunting this prey.

• While butterflies and moths provide valuable pollination duties, they are a vital food source for many birds, bats, small mammals, and other insect species. Wanting to attract the adult butterfly means the gardener needs to provide the larval food plant and accept that the caterpillars and their prey will be present, munching on plant leaves and flowers!

• Beetles especially serve as a fantastic testament to the wonders of biodiversity: more than half of all animal species are insects, and more than half of those are beetles! Like caterpillars, the majority of them eat leaves, and a wildlife friendly garden attracts their predators so plant damage will be negligible.

• Bats are nocturnal mammals that provide a significant service by consuming vast quantities of insects. In the wild, bats nest in trees and caves; in the human-altered landscape they also inhabit bridges, in the rooves of houses, and abandoned buildings.

• Water sources are necessary during both hot and dry periods, and will be used by all animals at some stage. Long with frogs, dragonflies and damselflies are considered effective indicators of the health of an ecosystem. They make use of water and land habitats, so are affected by a wider range of conditions that many other species. These beautiful flying creatures require thick foliage surrounding a water body on which to lay eggs. Their nymphs live for a while in the water, before changing form to hunt for insects in the air. Nearby flowers are required to attract their insect food.

When you see a bird or butterfly do you ever wonder what they eat, then cover your prized exotic plants with poison? When you eat an apple or a slice of bread, do you ever wonder how they were made, then support the bulldozing of a grassland patch for yet another mall? Make time today to sit in your indigenous garden or local wild place, for it is here we can discover a sense of wonderment at the staggering variety that gives life to all on this planet.

Many of these examples are sourced from a fascinating book by Geoff Nichols; A Guide to the Fauna of Zimbali. ZEMA 2011. Available from Flora Trust; www.floratrust.co.za/books/a-guide-to-the-fauna-of-zimbali.html

When you get into the whole field of exploring, probably 90 percent of the kinds of organisms, plants, animals and especially microorganisms and tiny invertebrate animals are unknown. Then you realize that we live on a relatively unexplored planet.

E. O. Wilson

Above: A common Bush Brown on Plec-tranthus leaf. Below: Long-horned beetles

Above: Forest Tree Frog © M. Purvis

Dragonflies are found hunting insects on flowers and wild grassesA Banana slug

In his excellent and popular book, ‘Field Guide to the Butterflies of South Africa’, Steve Woodhall writes, “Most butterflies can be approached closely with stealth” and, “Always approach

gently and quietly.”

I now understand our initial difficulties!

On Day 1 of the Autumn LepiBash, we brushed our way through the long, dry grass, in itself, not a noiseless activity, but we added to it with our endless chit-chat. It took a while to calm down and set our focus; after that, much of the communica-tion was either directed at Steve; Over there! What’s that!’ or from Steve; “There’s a Triumphetta rhomboidea, so there should be some Acraea’s around, like Telchinia esebria.” Ah, yes, of course! The novices present (in this case, all but Steve) would change direction and rush headlong towards it, to be told, Hang on, stay where you are. It will come back.”

What the above points to is that some knowledge is needed, not only to make an accurate ID, but also to know where to look to find these winged beauties – and their caterpillars. In the seemingly hopeless task of identifying a butterfly, knowing its food plant, the season in which it flies, and its habitat and terrain preferences, gets you most of the way there. You still have to contend with the many seasonal colour variations, and those clever mimics, of course, but time enough for that once you’ve retired! This type of knowledge takes time to learn, and one of the best classrooms is in the field with the many local LepSoc outings held around the country, where specialists are so gener-ous with their knowledge. In just that one day spent with Steve, the information learned was significant, and fuelled a week of obsessive butterfly spotting.

In Pursuit of Butterflies

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Spending a day watching butterflies is the best way to understand their requirements

But what if you’re alone in your garden? Take photographs, note the season, habitat and terrain, and the plant on which you saw the butterfly, then trawl through the Field Guide to find it. Another excellent resource is LepiMap, the Atlas of African Lepidoptera (butterflies and moths), a joint project run by the Animal De-mography Unit, University of Cape Town and the Lepidopterists’ Society of Africa. Their aim is to determine the distribution and conservation priorities of butterflies and moths on the African continent, with the help of the public – better known as citizen scientists! Registering with them allows you to upload your images, and these are soon identified by one of their special-ists. After the Autumn LepiBash week, 39 photos were uploaded to my personal file, most of which the digital spotters identified within a couple of days. This makes the ADU quite invaluable to any novice naturalist.

There are many characteristics that are species specific, and time in the field observing butterflies soon acquaints you with the different behaviours, or ‘jizz’ of the various species. ‘Jizz’ refers to the combination of body language, posture and behaviour, and helps to define a species. Aside from size and colour, the style of flight is one of the first clues as to the identity of the butterfly. Swallowtails have a fast and restless flight, and never seem to land, making it almost impossible to get a good photo-graph. The flight of the Blue Pansy was rapid and darting, and they often rested for long periods on grass, soil and flowers. The unpalatable African Monarch had no need to flee its predators, and its flight was slow and floating. The Dusky Acraea often sat on a plant leaf, wings as flat as a pancake and a little yellow beauty (Common Dotted Border) never settled – ever. The Citrus Swallowtail hovered over the Ribbon Bush flowers to drink, wings flapping continuously.

Previous Page: Upper-side of Yellow-banded Acraea on Senecio oxyodontus (Feathery Senecio).Top: Centre: Gold-Spotted Sylph.Bottom: Hairtail sp. on Helichrysm petiolare.

This page: Top left: Brown Commodore spent most of the weekend on Crassula capitella. Centre left: African or Common Leopard on invasive weed, Ageratum. Above: Female Bush Bronze.Right top: Blood-Red Acraea on Helichrysum petiolare.Right: African Migrant on Kalanchoe thyrsi-flora.

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The Common Bush Browns were one of the only butter-flies seen when the weather turned cloudy, which makes sense if you know they are a forest floor species, whose host plants are the forest grasses, Oplismenus hirtellus (Basket Grass) and Setaria megaphylla (Broad-leaved Bristle Grass). Another difficulty of photographing for identification purposes is that not all species rested with wings open. While the Joker, Leopard and Pansy’s did, the Charaxes, Monarch, Bush Browns, Hairtail and Blues preferred the upright wings- closed position! And the up-per and lower wing surfaces have very different patterns and colours variations.

These fragile insects are fascinating to watch, and opens the door to understanding and designing for their needs. For as much as it is the adult beauties we love to see, to have them in the garden, we must garden for caterpillars!

Top Left: Bush Browns sharing a plate of banana and wine with fruit chafer beetles and flies. Centre left: An unidentified caterpil-lar - is seen again it will be collected and reared through to adult stage for Id purposes. See the July issue for an article on rearing caterpillars.

Bottom left: Citrus Swallowtail on Hypoestes aristata. Top right: Blue Pansy feeding on nectar of Crassula capitellaBottom right: Common Joker

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Carrying its rather clumsy name with ease this little, delicate butterfly holds its own in this harsh world where insect ‘pests’ like plant lice, greenflies and aphids are the gar-

dener’s chief target. The Common Woolly Legs entire life- cycle though depends on plant lice, and the adult butterflies deposit eggs close to colonies of this insect. Plant lice are small, pear-shaped bugs that feed on the sap of woody plants and are often host specific. They secrete honeydew, which, if not removed, creates the perfect surface for the growth of sooty mould.

The slug-shaped larvae of this butterfly feed on plant lice and possess, according to reference books, long and spiny ‘true legs’ able to catch and hold onto the prey. In adult form, the butterfly feeds on the sweet honeydew secretions of the same insect. The honeydew also attracts ants and they are com-

monly seen sharing a branch with the butterfly. Specialist, Steve Woodhall, suggests the extreme wooliness of the hairs covering the butterfly’s feet protect it from unwanted ant attention. This tiny specimen spent the weekend sharing the meal with a few ants on a branch of the Tree Fuchsia, Halleria lucida.

The Common Woolly Legs, Lachnocnema bibulus, is of the genus LACHNOCNEMA; 36 species occur throughout Africa, only 4 of which are found in South Africa. Males have a wingspan of only 21 - 27mm, and are more easily seen than the larger (wing-span up to 30.5mm) sedentary females, as they fly rapidly in circles around trees and shrubs on which the larval prey are present. The flight period is year-round in the warmer areas, peaking in spring and late summer.

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Woolly Legs ButterfliesThis tiny carnivorous butterfly keeps plant lice at bay

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The recent felling of an old Jacaranda outside my back fence highlighted another valuable service performed by plants, trees and shrubs in particular: filtering traffic noise and

resulting pollutants.

Research carried out at the Transport Research Laboratory in Berkshire, indicates the most effective noise barrier to be a man-made one such as a brick/ cement wall or a solid fence, both of which can reduce noise by as much as 50%. A hedge or thin belt of trees and shrubs alone is less effective as sound carries on the air, so just filters through the leaves. At best this type of plant screen may offer a 25 % reduction in noise. Living barriers though are wildlife friendly so are essential components of urban living, and can be used together with a wall or fence.

The best plant barrier should be as impermeable as you can make it; in essence a wide shelterbelt of very dense evergreens from top to floor, and preferably a double planting depth. While research also recommends this barrier be planted or constructed as close to the source of the sound as possible, rather than close to the area you want to be protected, in most urban situations this is not feasible. In this case, the next best place for it is immediately around the area you most want to be protected, where you are going to be pottering about or entertaining. In small gardens, the boundary fence is likely to be close enough

Traffic noise and fumes are perennial urban issues.

Screening Traffic

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to these areas, but in large gardens, screening along the border fence may be too far away to quieten the sound. According to research, this is the least efficient place to build a noise barrier. In these gardens, plant screens around the sections you would like protected, to created localised quiet spots. Adding a water feature will reduce the noise further.

It is important to differentiate between a wind barrier and a noise and pollution barrier. The best way to protect against the wind is with a thick, layered planting of trees, shrubs and perennials, for the very reason that it filters and slows down the wind. However, as the air carries the traffic noise with it, a typical narrow urban hedge is not thick enough to prevent the noise from filtering through; a solid wall or fence, on the other hand, blocks the movement of the air and with it, urban noise.

How high the barrier should be? As high as possible, research recommends. Also, the noise may hit you at an angle, so you may need to continue your barrier round corners and further along the boundary fence than you expect. So the longer, higher and thicker the screen, the greater the noise reduction. For every additional 1 m of tree height, a further 1.5-decibel reduction if achieved.

Blocking traffic fumes: Research shows planting trees outside your house helps shield it from pollution. As well as helping the atmosphere by converting carbon dioxide to oxygen, trees absorb air pollution and, when planted outside your house, block some of the pollution. A test carried out by the BBC found trees reduced the level of particulate matter reaching homes by 50-60% over two weeks.

So, what plants are the most suitable? Evergreens are best to give year round protection, and those with thick, evenly spread foliage. As noise filters through the air, tall screens are the most effective, so should include trees, with evergreen shrubs that leaf from top to floor, planted beneath the canopies. Also necessary, is for the screen to cover cloth the area from the top down. In my situation, the tree was blocking the view line of the security camera, so planting another equally tall tree would be silly. The maximum height allowed here is 5 m – better than nothing at all and still allows for a reasonably adequate screen if you follow the other recommended points.

Practical example:Constraints:• Height: maximum of 5 m• Width: this verge is wide and will require a few of each spe-cies, planted close together. The final width should be between 2.5 and 3m. • Rapid screening: a structure of fast growing species mixed with slower growing thorny plants and trees to provide the final noise, fumes and security barrier.• Boundary security: include thorny species and position plants without creating dark, hideaway pockets in which Ne’er-do-well’s can lurk.• Neatness: no climbers or scramblers able to reach telephone lines.• Situation: one section is in the sun, the other, in dappled shade.• Soil Conditions: dry, ground sloping Species chosen: • Halleria lucida: a fast growing, multi-stemmed shrub or small tree with low growing foliage and a height of up to 5m. Wood is

very heavy so should be effective in deadening the noise.• Buddleja auriculata: densely shrubby to ground-level; evergreen, rapid growth of up to 1 m/ year, 4-5 m, attracts butterflies.• Carissa bispinosa: 2 m, spiny shrub, dense in full sun, slow growth rate but will create a final security and noise barrier when mature. Provides fruits for birds.• Dovyalis caffra: 4 x 4; Often forms a small tree so evergreen shrubs will provide cover beneath it. Fruits for birds, flowers for pollinators, spines for security. Moderate speed of up to 60 cm/ year.• Dyospyros lycoides: 3 m shrub. Usually evergreen in a mild climate. Medium to fast growth with good rains. Fruits for birds; flowers attract insects.• Canthium spinosum: small tree up to 4 m; multi-stemmed; spines. Preferable to the taller C. inerme.• Aloe arborescens: spiny, between 2 – 3m high. Nectar for birds and other pollinators. While the foliage is sparse, this shrub will add spiny leaves as a security deterrent. • Cassinopsis illicifolia: to be planted along the wooden fence in semi-shade. • Gymnosporia buxifolia: small shrub or tree, 2-3 m, spines; flow-ers for pollinators, attracts insect and nectar-feeding birds. • Barleria rotundifolia: placed at the front of the screen the sharp thorns are an effective addition to a security barrier. Fruits and nectar attract birds and insects. Fast growing once established, it is drought-hardy and grows to between 1 and 1,5m. • Shady plants: once the structure of the screen is in place, Plec-tranthus zuluensis, P. saccatus, P. hereroensis, Hypoestes aristata and Polygala myrtifolia will add seasonal colour.

Previous page: Top: Halleria lucida (Tree Fuchsia); Bottom: Diospyros lycoides; Above: Carissa bispinosa

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Black Witch-HazelTRICHOCLADUS CRINITUS IS ONE OF THE PRETTIEST SHRUBS FOR COASTAL GARDENS COMMONLY FOUND IN THE UNDERSTOREY OF THE KNYSNA FOREST

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This beautiful shrub offers glints of copper and green in the forest understorey, and for coastal gardeners lucky enough to source one, the Black Witch-hazel is one of

the most attractive shrubs for shade. The distribution range covers coastal areas from Knysna up into Zululand, where rain is plentiful and temperatures warm. Hikers through the Knysna forests may be familiar with this shrub, as, according to many references, it is one of the dominant shrubs of these evergreen habitats.

Growth habit: Trichocladus crinitus requires a partial to semi-shaded position in a frost-free garden where it grows into a 2.5 m high shrub. Width is slightly less, 2m at most, and this is a very neat shrub that needs no pruning if given enough space. Speed of growth is at best 40cm, if given sufficient moisture.

Description: foliage grows low and dense with beautiful glossy green leaves. These have a paler underside and the mid-ribs are covered in fine ginger hairs. These hairs are also seen on young flower buds and leaves. The flowers though, are the main attraction; relatively small, they are creamy-yellow with a deep red centre and lovely fragrance. Often described as spidery, they are made up of many narrow petals that form rather ragged round heads that form clusters on the branches and at the tips from April through to August. Fruits are small reddish-brown capsules that follow the flowering season in October. This beautiful specimen is in full bloom in an Assagay garden. New stems grew upright after the shrub was blown over by strong wind, creating a rather interesting shape. Rather than cut it down, Jenny Dean created a low archway in the children’s fairy garden – an instant hit with the garden fairies.

Species ID:Leaves: Elliptic in shape, tapering to the apex, with a slightly lobed or square base. 2.5cm – 10cm x 1.5-7cm wide.Bark: brown to pale grey; smooth

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Understanding Nitrogen FixingIt is relatively common knowledge these days that members of

the Pea (legume/ FABACEAE) family help to fix nitrogen in the soil. But what does this mean, how does it work, and how can

the gardener benefit from it? First off, the process is not as sim-ple as it sounds; plant a few legumes and nitrogen will be freely available to the surrounding plants. For it is not the plant that draws in atmospheric nitrogen, fixing it in the soil. Rather, this work is done exclusively by the bacteria living in little growths or nodules, on the legume plants roots!

Approximately 80% of our atmosphere is made up of nitrogen gas, N2, which is an unusable form for most living organisms. Nitrogen fixing is the process of changing the atmospheric nitrogen by nitrifying bacteria into forms usable by plants. The nitrogen is initially only available to the host plant and is only available to other plants once the legume has died and released its nitrogen into the surrounding soil.

The lack of nitrogen is the most limiting factor in plant growth as large amounts of this mineral nutrient are needed for the development of proteins and nucleic acids. Most of the nitrogen present in the soil comes from the activity of bacteria, which are usually decomposers living in the humus-rich soil. It is the Rhizobiia bacteria that carry out the particular form of nitrogen fix-ation associated with the legume family; they do this by forming a mutually beneficial association with the plant roots, radically altering its root structure. The bacteria draw in nitrogen gas from the air via the plant, creating a mutually beneficial (symbiotic) relationship between themselves and the plant.

The Rhizobia bacteria provide the legume with the correct form of nitrogen, and in turn, receive carbohydrates and other organic compounds as an energy source.

Symbiotic relationship: These bacteria cannot fix N2 if, not connected to the plant, nor can the plant roots fix N2 without the bacteria.

Almost all of the nitrogen fixed goes directly to the host, and very little is made available in the soil for a neighbouring non-legume plant. Usable nitrogen is only released into the ground when parts of the plant (leaves shed through the year) and eventu-

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ally the entire plant, dies. The nitrogen held in the root system, leaves, and stems of the legume species only become available to nearby plants if this biomass decomposes while still on the soil surface. If the dying or dead plant is pulled out and thrown away, the nitrogen supply is lost to the ground.

This legume - Rhizobium relationship generates more usable ni-trogen for plants than all industrial fertilisers used today, helping to provide the right amount of the nutrient at the right time – and at no cost. The FABACEAE family can, for this reason, be used as pioneer species, to enrich a nutrient deficient soil over time, creating suitable growing conditions for other plants. This ability can be harnessed to improve soil conditions in degraded areas or any nutrient deficient soil. Many short-lived pod-bearing spe-cies are used as cover crops and in re-vegetation projects.

In Iphithi Nature Reserve in Gillitts, a suburb in the hills above Durban, this was used to good effect along an alien-infested bank. Invasive grasses and weeds were poisoned, and the seed of some FABACEAE species scattered over the area: Indigofera, Rhynchosia, Eriosema, Canavalia, Indigofera, Tephrosia, Crotalaria and Zornia. They are all fast growers and soon im-proved growing conditions for other wildflowers, like Pentanisia, Leonotis, Plectranthus hadiensis, Polygala myrtifolia (known for its antibacterial, antimicrobial and antifungal properties,) and many wild grass varieties. As birds arrived to feed, new species germinated, and it is now a thriving shrubbery, alive with birds and insects.

Other more famous member of the FABACEAE family include the old Acacia (Vachellia and Senegalia), Erythrina, Podalyria, Mundulea, Sutherlandia and Sesbania species.

Previous Page: Main image: Tephrosia species; Right column: Tephrosia podsThis Page: Left top: Indigofera species; Centre: Crotalaria sp.; Below: Wild flowers grow in nitrogen enriched soils.

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