Material Competition Busana 2013

21th NATIONAL SKILLS COMPETITION

DKI JAKARTA 2013

Fashion Technology 2013 1

NATIONAL SKILLS COMPETITION LADIES DRESS MAKING

Directorate of Technical and Vocational Education and VEDC for Business and Tourism agreed to choose Ladies Dress Making as a skill to be competed in LKS. The winner will further participate in International level. This LKS refers to World Skills Competition. This competition focuses on skills and ability of participants in processing of ladies dress making. There will be no test on theoretical knowledge neither written nor interview. This test project is made of 3 difference modules, ie: Module 1: Jacket Module 2: Dress Module 3: Decoration on Jacket Description of Project and Task Module 1: JACKET

The maximum working time for the jacket is 10 hour. The competitor will receive a jacket pattern, with technical drawings and some instruction sheets. Competitor will have to prepare the pattern, prepare the fabric, cut the fabric, fuse some part of the jacket and sew the jacket using all the nations provided SPECIFICATIONS:

1. Jacket is fully lined with tulle overlay 2. Collar and band are in contrast fabric (no tulle)


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3. Closure is a button and loop 4. Competitor are decided the location and type of fusing 5. Shoulder pads are to be attached by hand 6. Bishop sleeve has narrow, lined inner sleeve and the overlay has a bubble hem. 7. Jacket must be submitted on day 2 at specific time (please refer on competition

timetable) The jacket will be evaluation on the following criteria 1. Cutting/pattern layout (Optimal fabric utilization) 2. Measurement 3. Seam and matching of junction 4. Quality of construction 5. Overall appearance (drape and shape of the garment)

Module 2: Dress Dress

Specifications for dress section:

1. Competitors will have a maximum of 5 hours for the dress section 2. Competitors must lay up, cut and sew the dress section using their pattern made in module 2 3. Once the dress section is complete, competitors will attach it to the bodice and finish the lining 4. No raw edges are allowed as a finish on fabrics unless the fabrics supplied DO NOT fray (tulle etc)

Criteria for assessment: Measurements Seams and matching of junctions Execution of construction


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Quality of construction Overall appearance

General Information

1. The committee will prepare the design, materials, and all accessories. 2. The ready made garment to be fitted on dummy. 3. The National committee will send the project test sheet to all province committees

one month in advance. 4. The participants are selected from the best SMK student of each province. 5. The committee provides industrial sewing machines. 6. The committee provides all materials; these SHOULD NOT be reimbursed by

participants Scope of work 1) The participants must be able to practice cutting, assembling, fusing, and pressing. 2) Technical skills required: a. Marking, measuring and cutting b. Using various industrial sewing machines efficiently c. Hand sewing for certain parts of garment in finishing process d. Ironing Workshop Installations 1) Participants will have 3 x4 m work space fully equipped with: a. Cutting table b. Sewing machine with lamp c. Chair d. Electric steam iron e. Dummy f. Waste bin g. Measuring tape 2) Share equipments: a. Over lock machine b. Thermo fusing press c. Steamer 3) Personal tools prepared by each participant a. Tailor’s chalk b. Pencil c. Tracing wheel d. Tracing paper e. Scissors for paper and fabric f. Pins g. Hand sewing needles h. Damp cloth i. Weights j. Rulers k. Water sprayer l. Invisible zipper foot General Instruction

- Cut and mark the flat pattern supplied by the committee - Cut the fabric and lining according to the patterns - Add allowances for seams and hems - Select available interfacing


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THE AGENDA

Day 1: - Marking and cutting the pattern.

- Make a fabric cutting plan for jacket and dress

- Expert evaluation.

- Cutting fabric.

- Cutting lining and other necessaries

- Start making the jacket. Day 2: - Continue module 1, jacket must be submitted on the specific time on day 2

(exact time please refer to competition timetable)

- After submitted jacket, competitor continue start modul 2 (dress)

- Submited Dress (finished or unfinished) at the end of day 1

- Competitor which not finished jacket on day 2 has additional 1 hour and 30 minutes to finished it at the end of day 2.

- Dress Evaluation.

- all competitor Day 3: - All competitor will received jacket which made on day 1 & 2 then Continue starting

modul 3 ( mystery box) modification on jacket using all item on the mystery box

- Submitted modul 3 at the end time on day 1 and finished all competition.

- Expert evaluation

- Final judgment WORKING TIME The total working period to complete the task is 18 hour within 3 days. The daily working time is counted by timer. GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING JACKET

- Sew by machine

- The jacket with flap collar

- Sleeves without mitered corner

- The jacket is fully lined.

- Pattern does not include allowances for seams and hems.

- The cutting plan will be evaluated and marked by the Juries, before starting the cutting procedure.

- The participant selects interlinings from the offered selection.

- Working time for the jacket is 10 hours.


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Jacket Pattern

NO Pattern No Part name Total

1 F1 Jacket Front Body 2

2 B2 Jacket Back Body 1

3 OE3 Open end 4

4 FF4 Front Facing 2

5 BF5 Back Facing 1

6 C6 Collar 2

7 C7 LApel 2

8 S8 Sleeve Top 2

9 S9 Sleeve Bottom 2

TULLE PATTER

10 TLF10 Front Tulle 2

11 TLB11 Back Tulle 1

12 TLSLV12 Sleeve Tulle 2


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Jacket Lining


13 FL12 Front Lining 2

14 BL13 Back Lining 1 1

15 LSLV14 Sleeve Top Lining 2

16 LSLV15 Sleve Bottom Lining 2

GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR Dress

- Sew by machine

- The dress is fully lined.

- The A line dress sleeve less

- The dress has zipper at the center back

- Pattern does not include allowances

- The cutting plan will be evaluated and marked by the Juries, before starting the cutting procedure.

- Sew and assemble the lining by machine

- Over lock stitch every side of seams

- Over lock stitch every side of seams of lining

- Working time for the dress is 5 hours.


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Figure 7


17 DF16 Dress Front top 1

18 DF17 Dress Front Bottom 1

19 DB18 Dress Back 2

20 DFF19 Dress Front Facing 1

21 DBF20 Dress Back Facing 2


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22 LDF21 Lining Dress Front 1

23 LDB22 Lining Dress Back 2


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EQUIPMENT FOR PARTICIPANTS

NO GOODS DESCRIPTION QUANTITY

1 Single needle overlock Complete set + lamp 33 units

2 Thermo fuse Without table 1 units

3 Overlock seamer Complete set 8 units

4 Invisible zipper foot 33 pcs

5 Steam iron 33 pcs

6 Dummy Size 9 37 pcs

7 Iron board 35 x 90 cm 33 units

TOOLS FOR PARTICIPANTS


1 Measuring tape 33 pcs

2 Ruler stainless 33 pcs

3 Drawing pen Black 0,5 33 pcs

4 Set of Egg shape, sleeve 33 sets

5 Shape & press cushion

6 Needle for sewing machine DC x 1 85/13 10 packs

DB x 1 75/11 10 packs

7 Weights 198 pcs

8 Water sprayer 35 pcs

9 Fabrics scissors Steel 33 pcs

10 Paper scissors Plastic & steel 33 pcs

11 Screw driver Small & medium 33 pcs

12 Hand needle 33 pcs


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MATERIAL FOR PARTICIPANTS


1 Main fabric Thai silk width 150 cm 3 m x 33 = ___ m

2 Additional Main Fabric Tulle width 150 cm 1 m x 33 = ___ m

3 Lining fabric polyester 115 cm width 2 m x 33 = 99 m

4 Interfacing Non woven 2 m x 33 = 82,5 m

5 Sleeves heading roll polyester 33 sets

6 Shoulder pads Non woven 33 sets

8 Threads Sewing 66 pcs

Over lock 99 pcs

9 Invisible zipper Ykk brand 55 cms 33 pcs

10 Tracing paper Color 7 bxs

11 Sewing chalk White color 4 bxs

Button 16 mm 1 pcs

12 Hook & eye small 1 pasang

FACILITIES


1 Working table 150 x 75 x 70 33 pcs

2 Working chair With back support 41 pcs

3 Needle work basket 33 pcs

4 Electrical instalation for 51 machineries

for 8 electric steam iron

Iron 33

Steamer 8

Sewing machine with

lamp 33 unit

Invisible zipper foot 35 pcs

Rubbish bin 33 pcs


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GUIDELINES FOR JURIES

POINT

A. CUTTING 15

1. JACKET & DRESS

a. Grain line direction

b. Pattern lay out

c. Fabric utilization

B. MEASUREMENTS 23

1. JACKET (15)

a. Collar Heigt

b. Jacket Back Length

c. Shoulder width d. Sleeve Length

e. Button Position

2. DRESS (8)

a. Dress length

b. Neck to empire line

c. Waist line

d. Shoulder width e. Zipper

C. GARMENT APPEARANCE 17

1. JACKET (10)

a. Pressing

b. Choosing of fusing & positioning c. Shape

2. DRESS ( 7)

a. Pressing

b. Choosing of fusing & positioning

c. Shape

D. FINISHING & WORKMANSHIP 45

1. JACKET (23)

a. collar

b. Sleeves

c. Seams

d. Inside finishing

2. DRESS (12) a. Seams

b. Invisible zipper

c. Hem

d. Inside finishing

e. Buttons

E. DECORATION & CREATIVITY DESIGN

1. JACKET (10)

a. Fabric utilisation

b. Accessories Utilisation

c. Suitability to theme

d. Sewing Technic


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FORM PENILAIAN

A. PATTERN LAYOUT

NAMA : _______________________

No Peserta : ____________________

Asal Daerah : __________________

PEMAKAIAN BAHAN : ______________ Cm (bobot = 6)

Ket : Setiap beda 5 Cm dikurangi 25% dari bobot

Pengukur : _____________________

Layout : _________ (bobot = 3 ) setiap salah letak dikurangi 25% dr bobot

Peletakan : _________ (bobot = 6 ) Toleransi 2 mm

Ukuran Grain Line (Peletakan)

Bagian Atas Bawah Nilai

F1

B2

Oe3

Ff4

Bf5

C6

C7

S8

S9

Df16

DF17

DB18

Dff19

Dbf20

Total nilai grain line

Penilaian Ttl Grain Line Total/ 14 Nilai yg diberikan X bobot (6) Dalam Penilaian LAYOUT Setiap kesalahan kurangi 25% dari bobot (3)

Form : 1A


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FORM PENILAIAN

B. MEASUREMENT

NAME : _______________________

Competitor No :__________________

Province : __________________

Position MARKING ASPECT Nominal

size Tolerance Score

Weight Given Mark

JACKET

A Collar Height 7 cm + 0,2 cm 2

B Sleeve length 42 cm + 0,5 cm 4

C Jacket back length 40 cm + 0,5 cm 4

D Shoulder width 11,5 cm + 0,2 cm 3

E Button from HPS 14,5 cm + 0,2 cm 2

DRESS

F Dress Back Length 82 cm + 0,5 cm 2

G Neck to Empire line 19.5 cm + 0,2 cm 2

H Waist circle 75 cm + 0,5 cm 1

I Shoulder width 4 cm + 0,2 cm 2

J Zipper 48 cm + 0,5 cm 1

Toleransi Ukuran 2 mm ± 2 mm ( 0,2 cm) 10 ± 3 mm ( 0,3 cm) 9 ± 4 mm ( 0,4 cm) 8 ± 5 mm ( 0,5 cm) 7 ± 6 mm ( 0,6 cm) 6 ± More 1

Toleransi Ukuran 5 mm ± 5 mm ( 0,5 cm) 10 ± 6 mm ( 0,6 cm) 9 ± 7 mm ( 0,7 cm) 8 ± 8 mm ( 0,8 cm) 7 ± 9 mm ( 0,9 cm) 6 ± More 1


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FORM PENILAIAN

NAME : _______________________

Competitor No :__________________

Province : __________________

C. GARMENT APPEREANCE (17) Trade No:

Piece

Position

Weigthing Factor

(WF)

MARKING ASPECT Experts Score 0 – 10 Calculation

1 2 3 4 5 6

10 JACKET

K 4 Pressing

2 Choosing of fusing &

positioning

L 4 Shape

M 7 DRESS

N 2 Pressing

O 1 Choosing of fusing &

positioning

P 4 Shape

Signature

1. Expert Member 2. Expert Member 3. Expert Member

4. Expert Member 5. Expert Member

Score 0 - 10 Formular

Signature Chief Expert :

…………………….., _______________________________

Perfect = 10 point Very good = 9 point

Good = 8 point

Rather good = 7 point Sufficient = 6 point

Medium = 5 point Weak = 4 point

Insufficient = 3 point

Bad = 2 point Very bad = 1 point

Zero = 0 point

Score x WF

CP = 10 x Expert


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FORM PENILAIAN

NAME : _______________________

Competitor No :__________________

Province : __________________

D. FINISHING & WORKMANSHIP

JACKET Trade No:

Piece Position

Weigthing

Factor

(WF)

MARKING ASPECT

Experts Score 0 – 10 Calculation

1 2 3 4 5 6

23 JACKET

Q 5 Collar

R 6 Sleeves

S 4 Seams

T 3 Inside finishing

U 2 Button attachment

V 3 Tulle sewing quality

DRESS Trade No:

Piece

Position

Weigthing

Factor (WF)

MARKING ASPECT


(CP) 1 2 3 4 5 6

12 DRESS

W 2 Seams

X 3 Invisible zipper

Y 3 Hem hand sewing

Z 2 Inside finishing

AA 2 Hook and eye

Signature





……………………..,

_______________________________

Perfect = 10 point Very good = 9 point

Good = 8 point Rather good = 7 point

Sufficient = 6 point

Medium = 5 point Weak = 4 point

Insufficient = 3 point

Bad = 2 point Very bad = 1 point

Zero = 0 point

Score x WF

CP =

10 x Expert


DKI JAKARTA 2013


FORM PENILAIAN

NAME : _______________________

Competitor No :__________________

Province : __________________

E. DECORATION AND CREATIVITY DESIGN

Objective

Position MARKING ASPECT Weight Given Mark

AB Fabric utilization 2

AC Accessories utilization 2

Subjective Marking

Piece Position

Weigthing

Factor

(WF)

MARKING ASPECT


1 2 3 4 5 6

10 Decoration of Jacket

AD 3 Suitability to design

AE 3 Sewing Quality on

attaching decoration item

Signature





……………………..,

_______________________________

Perfect = 10 point

Very good = 9 point Good = 8 point

Rather good = 7 point Sufficient = 6 point

Medium = 5 point

Weak = 4 point Insufficient = 3 point

Bad = 2 point

Very bad = 1 point Zero = 0 point

Score x WF

CP =

10 x Expert


DKI JAKARTA 2013


Assessment Criteria: Weigthing Day

1

Day

2

Day

3

Marks

A Cutting 15

B Measurement 23

C Garment Appearance 17

D Finishing & workmanship 35

E Decoration & Creativity

design

10

100

Signature

1. Expert 2. Expert 3. Expert 4. Expert 5. Expert

A

B

C

D

E

Signature JURY-PRESIDENT: Signature Chief Expert :

……………………..,

_________________________


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TIME TABLE FOR THE COMPETITION TEST PROJECT: FASHION TECHNOLOGY

DAY ONE Selasa, 24 September 2013

Start

Time

Finish

Time

Activity Duration

08.00 08.30 Test Project Introduction

08.30 10.00 Competition start module 1 – Jacket 1 hour 30 mins

10.00 10.15 Break

10.15 12.00 Competition 1 hour 45 mins

12.00 13.00 Lunch

13.00 15.15 Competition 2 hours 15 mins

15.15 15.30 Break

15.30 18.00 Competition Submitted module 1 2 hours 30 mins

Competition Time 8 hours

DAY TWO

Rabu, 25 September 2013

Start

Time

Finish

Time

Activity Duration

08.00 10.00 Continue Modul 1 : Jacket must be

submitted on 10.00

2 hours

10.00 10.15 Break

10.15 12.00 Competition Starting modul 2 : dress 1 hour 45 mins

12.00 13.00 Lunch

13.00 15.15 Competition continue modul 2 2 hour 15 mins

15.15 15.30 Break

15.30 16.30 Competition continue modul 2, dress

must be submitted on 16.30

1 hour

16.30 18.00 Additional time for unfinished jacket


Note : all judge must marking to unfinished jacket in advanced

DAY THREE

Kamis, 26 September 2013

Start

Time

Finish

Time

Activity Duration

08.00 11.00 Competition modul 3 3 hours


Total Time 18 hours


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JUDGE EQUIPMENT


1 Calculator Min 8 Digit 5 pcs

2 Hard Board 5 pcs

3 Measurement Tape 1,5 meters 5 pcs

4

Flashing Card for

judge Card with number 0-9 5 Set

Material Competition Busana 2013

Documents

dress module

jacket module

dress dress specifications

dress section

jacket pattern

world skills competition

technical skills

processing of ladies