MASTERS OF ENGINEERING QUALITY IMPROVEMENT IN …

MASTERS OF ENGINEERING

QUALITY IMPROVEMENT IN GARMENT FACTORY THROUGH

TQM APPROACH

MD. MIJANUR RAHMAN

DEPARTMENT OF INDUSTRIAL & PRODUCTION ENGINEERING

BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY

(BUET), DHAKA-1000, BANGLADESH

December, 2013

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QUALITY IMPROVEMENT IN GARMENT FACTORY THROUGH

TQM APPROACH

A thesis has been submitted in the partial fulfillment of the requirement for the degree

Master of Engineering in Industrial and Production Engineering.

December, 2013

DEPARTMENT OF INDUSTRIAL & PRODUCTION ENGINEERING

BANGLADESH UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY

DHAKA-1000, BANGLADESH

ii

CERTIFICATE OF APPROVAL

The thesis titled “QUALITY IMPROVEMENT IN A GARMENT FACTORY THROUGH

TQM APPROACH” submitted by Md. Mijanur Rahman, Roll No. 1009082012, Session-

October, 2009 has been accepted as satisfactory in partial fulfillment of the requirements for

the degree of Master of Engineering in Industrial and Production Engineering on December

17, 2013.

BOARD OF EXAMINERS

1. Dr. A. K. M. Masud Chairman

Professor (Supervisor)

Department of IPE, BUET, Dhaka

2. Dr. Abdullahil Azeem Member

Professor


3. Dr. Nafis Ahmad Member

Professor


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CANDIDATE’S DECLARATION

It is hereby declared that this thesis or any part of this has not been submitted elsewhere for

the award of any degree or diploma except for publication.

_______________________

Md. Mijanur Rahman

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I acknowledge my profound indebtedness and express sincere gratitude to my supervisor Dr.

A. K. M Masud, Professor, Department of Industrial & Production Engineering (IPE), BUET,

Dhaka. He provided proper guidance, supervision and valuable suggestions at all stages to

carry out this research work. I am proud to have him as my supervisor for Master’s thesis.

I would also like to thank Masco Industries Limited for providing necessary support,

information and data for the analysis part of my project.

Finally, I wish to express my heartiest gratitude to my respected teachers at the Department

of Industrial & Production Engineering (IPE), BUET and to all my colleagues, friends and

family members who helped me directly or indirectly in this work.

__________________

Md. Mijanur Rahman

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ABSTRACT

Total Quality Management (TQM) is one of the important tools to improve quality and

reduce manufacturing cost by reducing rework and scrape. There has a great applicability of

TQM method in RMG sector. Several implementations have proven that the TQM approach

really works in practice and improves of even 90% and more quality level in some situations.

As RMG sector is a large industrial sector in Bangladesh; Quality Improvement can play a

vital role for improving productivity as well as economic development for the country. We

have used the tools of TQM such as Flow chart, Check sheet, Pareto Chart, Cause and effect

diagram in a garment industry of Bangladesh and it is found that a significant amount of

rework and scrape per style, per month has minimized by applying this method. The

implementation has enabled to reduction in rework and cost of poor quality, through proper

utilization of company's internal resources without the need for significant investment.

Key Words: TQM, RMG, Rework, Quality Improvement, Cost of Poor quality

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Certificate of Approval ii

Candidate’s Declaration iii

Acknowledgement iv

Abstract v

Table of Contents vi

List of Tables xi

List of Figures xiii

Chapter 1: Introduction 1

1.1 Introduction 1

1.2 Background of the study 2

1.3 Significance of the study 3

1.4 Objectives of the study 4

Chapter 2: Literature Review 5

2.1 Quality 5

2.2 Evolution of Quality 5

2.2.1 Inspection 6

2.2.2 Quality Control 7

2.2.3 Quality Assurance 7

2.2.4 Total Quality Management 7

2.3 Quality Tools 9

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2.3.1 Check Sheet 9

2.3.2 Pareto Chart 10

2.3.2.1 Description of Pareto chart 11

2.3.2.2 Application of Pareto chart 12

2.3.2.3 Procedure of preparing a Pareto chart 12

2.3.3 Process Flow Chart 13

2.3.4 Cause-Effect Diagram 14

2.3.4.1 Procedure of constructing a Cause-Effect (CE) diagram 15

2.3.4.2 Types of CE analysis 16

2.3.4.2.1 Cause enumeration 16

2.3.4.2.2 Process analysis 17

2.4 Pillars of TQM Implementation 18

2.5 Management of Quality in Garment Industry 19

2.5.1 Preproduction Quality Assurance 19

2.5.2 Quality Assurance during Production 19

2.5.3 Postproduction Quality Assurance 20

2.6 Quality Improvement 20

2.7 Garment Production Process 21

2.7.1 Pattern Making 21

2.7.2 Pattern Grading 21

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2.7.3 Marker Making 21

2.7.4 Garment Cutting 21

2.7.5 Garment Sewing 21

2.7.6 Pressing and Finishing 22

Chapter 3: Research Methodology 23

3.1 Introduction 23

3.2 Research Process Flow Chart 23

3.3 Steps Involved in Research 24

Chapter 4: Finding and Analysis 26

4.1 Findings with TQM pillars 26

4.2 Defect Find out 27

4.3 Check Sheet 27

4.3.1 Defect in Cutting section 30

4.3.2 Defects in Sewing Section 31

4.3.3 Rejection in sewing section 32

4.3.4 Defects in finishing section 32

4.3.5 Rejection in Finishing 33

4.4 Process Flowchart 33

4.4.1 Process Flowchart in Cutting Section 34

4.4.2 Process Flowchart in Sewing Section 35

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4.4.3 Process Flowchart in Finishing Section 35

4.5 Pareto Chart 36

4.5.1 Pareto analysis for Cutting Defects 36

4.5.2 Pareto analysis for Sewing Defects 37

4.5.3 Pareto analysis for Sewing Rejection 39

4.5.4 Pareto analysis for Finishing Defects 40

4.5.5 Pareto analysis for Rejection in finishing section 41

4.6 Cause-Effect Diagram 42

Chapter 5: Implementations 46

5.1 Implementation 46

5.2 Implementation with TQM pillars 47

5.3 Action taken against root cause 52

5.3.1 Countermeasures of Oil/Dirty Spot 53

5.3.2 Countermeasures of Skip Stitch 54

5.3.3 Countermeasures of Uneven Stitch 54

5.3.4 Countermeasures of Raw edge 55

5.3.5 Countermeasures of Pleat 55

5.3.6 Countermeasures for Other defects 56

5.3.7 Countermeasures in Cutting Section 56

5.3.7.1 Spreading of Fabric for relaxation 56

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5.3.7.2 Cutting of Pilot Run 57

5.3.7.3 Shade Controlling in cutting section 57

5.3.8 Quality Specification Sheet (QSS) 58

5.4 Process Flow modification 58

5.4.1 Modified Process Flow chart of Cutting section 58

5.4.2 Modified Process Flow chart of Sewing Section 59

5.4.3 Modified Process Flow chart of Finishing Section 59

Chapter 6: Result and Discussion 61

6.1 Result 61

6.2 Discussion 62

6.2.1 Sewing Quality Result 62

6.2.2 Finishing Quality Result 64

6.2.3 Efficiency 65

6.2.4 Team Work 66

6.2.5 Reward System 66

6.2.6 TQM Knowledge of workers 66

Chapter 7: Conclusion and Recommendation 67

7.1 Conclusion 67

7.2 Recommendation for the future study 67

References 68

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LIST OF TABLES

Table 2.1: An example of check sheet for data collection … 10

Table 2.2: Frequency of defects in finishing section ……. 11

Table 2.3: Pillars of TQM implementation 19

Table 4.1: Current Practices of TQM Pillars 26

Table 4.2: Defects in Cutting Section 30

Table 4.3: Defects in Sewing Section 31

Table 4.4: Rejection in Sewing Section 32

Table 4.5: Defects in Finishing Section 32

Table 4.6: Rejection in Finishing 33

Table 4.7: Defects in Cutting Section for Pareto analysis 36

Table 4.8: Defects in Sewing Section for Pareto analysis 37

Table 4.9: Rejections in Sewing Section for Pareto analysis 39

Table 4.10: Defects in Finishing Section for Pareto analysis 40

Table 4.11: Rejections in Finishing Section for Pareto analysis 41

Table 5.1: Quality Trilogy 50

Table 5.2: Countermeasures of Spot 53

Table 5.3: Countermeasures of Skip Stitch 54

Table 5.4: Countermeasures of Uneven Stitch 54

Table 5.5: Countermeasures of Raw edge 55

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Table 5.6: Countermeasures of Pleat 55

Table 6.1: Results in different Matrix 61

Table 6.2: Data of Sewing Section (Before Implementation) 62

Table 6.3: Data of Sewing Section (After Implementation) 63

Table 6.4: Data of Finishing Section (Before Implementation) 64

Table 6.5: Data of Finishing Section (After Implementation) 65

xiii

LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 2.1: Quality Evaluation 6

Figure 2.2: Pareto diagram for defects in finishing section 12

Figure 2.3: A process flow chart 14

Figure 2.4: Cause enumeration 16

Figure 2.5: Process type CE diagram 17

Figure 2.6: Quality and Competitiveness 20

Figure 2.7: Garment Production Process 22

Figure-3.1: Research Process in Flow chart 23

Figure 4.1: Check sheet for Cutting Section 28

Figure 4.2: Check sheet for Sewing Section 29

Figure 4.3: Process Flowchart of Cutting Section 34

Figure 4.4: Process Flowchart of Sewing Section 35

Figure 4.5: Process Flowchart of Finishing Section 35

Figure 4.6: Pareto Chart for cutting Defects 36

Figure 4.7: Pareto Chart for Sewing Defects 38

Figure 4.8: Pareto Chart for Sewing Rejection 39

Figure 4.9: Pareto Chart for Finishing Defects 40

Figure 4.10: Pareto Chart for Finishing Rejection 41

Figure 4.11: Cause-Effect diagram for Spot 42

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Figure 4.12: Cause and Effect diagram of Skip Stitch 42

Figure 4.13: Cause and Effect diagram of Uneven Stitch 43

Figure 4.14: Cause and Effect diagram of Raw edge 43

Figure 4.15: Cause and Effect diagram of Pleat 44

Figure 4.16: Cause and Effect diagram of Twisting 44

Figure 4.17: Cause and Effect diagram of Scissoring 45

Figure 5.1: Garments Inspection Sequence 46

Figure 5.2: Defect Library 47

Figure 5.3: Training Sessions on TQM 48

Figure 5.4: Prize giving ceremony for best performance 51

Figure 5.5: Quality Specification Sheet 58

Figure 5.6: Modified Process Flow Chart of Cutting Section 58

Figure 5.7: Modified Process Flow Chart of Sewing Section 59

Figure 5.8: Modified Process Flow Chart of Finishing Section 60

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Chapter One Introduction 1.1 INTRODUCTION

Quality holds significant importance in the world trade in garments [1]. After phase out of

MFA (multi-fiber agreement) Bangladesh is competing with other countries for the market

share in the world without quotas. Quality as the number one source of competitive

advantage for garments exports. Therefore, a smart garment manufacturer will not

underestimate the significance of quality for his business [1].

Garment manufacturing is a complex industry for many reasons. The product line is a

complex array of styles, seasons, varying life cycles, and multidimensional sizing. Many

apparel firms are upgrading their quality control procedure to be more competitive in the

world market. In general, better-quality garments cost more to produce than budget-quality

products [2].

Total Quality Management (TQM) refers to organization wide effort to achieve quality. It can

accurately be described as a philosophy about quality that suggest for involving everyone in

the organization in a quest for quality. It extends to suppliers as well as to customers. If fact,

in TQM, the customer is the focal point, as the business is driven by customers. As such,

customer’s satisfaction is the main driving force. Everyone in the organization, form the top

most chief executive, up to the bottom most workers, has to take part in this endeavor.

Achieving world class quality is not just another program; it is an ongoing process [3]. Total

Quality Management requires all employees of the organization for improving the products,

processes and services. All employees, no matter what role, are responsible for quality and

quality assurance. When done correctly, the entire business culture is TQM [4]. In practical

business settings, implementation of TQM requires a great deal of change in most

organizations. For these change, some factors or associated activities are involved to

implement TQM in organizations.

There are seven basic Tools of Quality which can be used to analyze and subsequently

intervene to eliminate the problems from the production system. Based on long experience in

quality issues, a renowned quality expert Dr. Kaoru Ishikawa stated, “As much as 95% of

quality related problems can be solved with seven fundamental quality tools” [3].

2

1.2 BACKGROUND OF THE STUDY

The globalization of the market and the rapid improvements in information flow has made

competition in manufacturing industries to be fierce worldwide. As a result, industries such

as the garment industry are facing the greatest challenge in history because of the rapidly

changing business environment with respect to global competition, market performance, and

changing technology [5].

Garment is a fashion product that is influenced by social trends and global economic

environments. The garment industry has specific market characteristics, such as short product

life cycle, high volatility, low predictability, and a high level of impulse purchase, making

quick response of paramount importance [6].

In today’s world, garment industries make a significant contribution to many national

economies especially in the developing world. Many countries are exploiting this industry for

reasons of economic growth. The high amount of labor involved in garment production has

caused garment producers to seek locations with lower wage employees for reduced

production costs. Garment producers in developing countries have labor-cost advantages

compared to industrialized countries [5]. Because of its large labor pool, Bangladesh has a

comparative advantage in producing garment. The increased salary levels in Asian countries,

closing of factories particularly in China and dissatisfaction of EU and US importers provide

an opportunity for new entrants such as Bangladesh into the global market.

Currently, there are around 5,400 garment factories in Bangladesh. These industries produce

different kinds of attires including uniforms, work wears, knit wear products like sports wear,

under wears, polo shirts, clothing products and suits.

The quality of garment products is associated with the extent to which it satisfies the

consumer’s needs. Quality of garment products have two dimensions, namely, a physical

dimension, specifying what the garment item is and a behavioral dimension indicating what

the item can achieve [ 7]. Physical characteristics include the intrinsic factors of the item such

as the design, textile construction and finishes that cannot be changed without changing the

item itself. The behavioral characteristics of apparel products can be divided into functional

as well as aesthetic behavioral characteristics. Functional behavioral characteristics refer to

properties such as the durability and comfort of the item. Aesthetic behavioral characteristics

refer to the prettiness or aesthetic experience that the apparel item can bring about, whether

sensory level, emotional, or cognitive.

3

According to David Garvin, a Harvard expert on quality, there are eight dimensions of

quality: performance, features, reliability, conformance, durability, serviceability, aesthetics

and perceived quality [8]. Another commonly used definitions of quality that originated from

one of the quality pioneers; Juran uses the idea of fitness for use. Fitness for use should be

judged from the customer’s point of view and not from either the manufacturer’s or seller’s

perspective. This concept can be applied for garments as well.

For a garment to be fit for use, provided that the style is acceptable it must be [9]:

Free from defects such as stains, fabric defects, open seams, untrimmed threads,

misaligned buttons and buttonholes and defective zippers

Fit properly for the labeled size

Perform satisfactory in normal use, meaning that a garment must be able to withstand

like normal laundering, dry-cleaning, pressing cycles without color loss or shrinkage.

Seams must not come apart and fabric must not tear

Customer needs are a moving target and it is widely recognized that quality goals must keep

shifting to respond to the changes that keep coming over the horizon [10]. As a result,

continuous improvement of quality is needed in the garment industry since there is

competition pressure.

1.3 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY

In order for an apparel company to survive in today’s global environment, it must be

responsive to its target market. Defining product quality criteria and establishing effective

controls are among a company’s most important policy decisions. When an apparel company

focuses all its activities to deliver a quality product that satisfies the needs of its target market

by creating a culture or philosophy of management in which all personnel are involved in

identifying and resolving quality problems, it is practicing total quality management [11]

Garments manufacturing industries are playing an important role in the growth of the national

economy. To gain competitive advantage, to sustain the market share and to cope with the

newest competitors it is necessary to deliver quality products in time with reasonable price to

the customer. If the garment factories continuously support with quality product

implementation TQM approach can play a vital role for the improvement. TQM philosophy

helps to achieve quality objective because it focuses on all employee involvement including

management people, operational people, purchasing people and marketing people. The trend

4

of implementing total quality management (TQM) is growing on a worldwide scale. In order

to view quality as a source of competitive advantage a company must build on the belief that

implementing TQM can enable superior quality. 1.4 OBJECTIVES OF THE STUDY There are varieties of problems related to quality and productivity in the garment factories

due to varying degrees of abnormality, inefficiency and lack of proper training of mid-level

management, which ultimately causes the poor quality, defects and rejection of garments.

The implementation of TQM tools for quality-related problems is a key and necessary step in

the operations of manufacturing processes, especially in the mass production like garments

factory. This is predominantly true for the multistage manufacturing processes, which is

defined as a process that produces the products under multiple setups. The quality

information flow of the product in a multistage manufacturing system and the interaction

between the process faults and the product quality characteristics are very complicated. In

multistage process, the identification of process root cause is also not simple. It has been

observed that the implementation of TQM tools in a particular single individual setup has

simplified the problem.

The objective of the study is:

To improve the quality of garments by implementing TQM tools (Check sheet, Pareto

analysis, Process flow chart, Cause-Effect diagram)

The major possible outcomes of this study are:

a) Quality of garments can be improved by solving the problems behind poor quality

using TQM tools (Check sheet, Pareto analysis, Process flow chart, Cause-Effect

diagram)

b) Productivity can be improved by reducing rework

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Chapter Two Literature Review 2.1 QUALITY

There are hosts of opinions as to how to define quality. Traditionally producers think about

quality as a determinant of producer, more specifically determinant of engineers and

marketing professionals. But the new concept of quality differs here. It defines quality as a

determinant of customer, more specifically level of customer satisfaction determines level of

quality. Broadly speaking, customers want to see a result from the product or service what

they pay for.

Crosby defines quality as, “Quality is conformance to requirements or specification” [12].

Juran defines quality as, “Quality is fitness for use” [12].

Moreover the notion of quality has been defined in different ways by various authors. So

mainly quality is customer satisfaction. For ensuring quality in organization, it is supported

by management of that organization. Management of quality is discussing in the next session.

2.2 EVOLUTION OF QUALITY

The quality movement can trace its roots back to medieval Europe, when craftsmen began

organizing into unions called guilds in the late 13th century [13]. In the early 1950’s, quality

management practices developed rapidly in Japanese plants, and become a major theme in

Japanese management philosophy, such that, by 1960, quality control and management had

become a national preoccupation. By the early 1970’s Japan’s imports into the USA and

Europe increased significantly, due to its cheaper, higher quality products, compared to the

Western counterparts. The quality revolution in the West was slow to follow, and did not

begin until the early 1980’s, when companies introduced their own quality programs and

initiatives to counter the Japanese success [14].

Since the turn of the century quality improvement has matured significantly. New quality

systems have evolved from the foundations of Deming, Juran and the early Japanese

practitioners of quality, and quality has moved beyond manufacturing into service,

distribution, healthcare, education and government sectors. During the last three decades,

simple inspection activities have been replaced or supplemented by quality control, quality

6

assurance and now most companies are working towards Total Quality Management (TQM)

[15]. In this progression, four fairly discrete stages can be identified: inspection, quality

control, quality assurance, and TQM as shown in Figure 2.1.

Figure 2.1: Quality Evaluation [15]

2.2.1 Inspection

At one time inspection was thought to be the only way of ensuring quality. Inspection with

reference to the garment industry can be defined as the examination or review of raw

materials (like fabric, buttons, zippers and sewing threads), in-process components and

completely finished garment in relation to some standard specifications, or requirements. The

inspection activity can be carried out by staff employed specifically for the purpose or by

self-inspection. Products which do not conform to specification may be scrapped, reworked,

modified or passed on concession. In some cases inspection is used to grade the finished

product. The system is an after-the event screening process with no prevention content.

Simple inspection based systems usually do not directly involve suppliers or customers in the

activity.

TQM Policy development, involve supplier and customers, involve all operations, process

management, performance measurement, team work, employee involvement

Quality Assurance Quality system development, advance quality planning, comprahensive quality manuals, use of quality costs, involvement of non conformance operations, failur mode and effect

analysis, SPC

Quality Control Develop quality manual, process performance data, self inspection, product testing,

basic quality planning, use of basic statistics, paper work control

Inspection Salvage, sorting, grading, blending, corrective actions, identify sources of non-

conformance

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2.2.2 Quality Control

Quality control is concerned with the operational techniques for detecting, recording, and

taking actions to eliminate quality problems. Quality control focuses on finding and

eliminating sources of defects and monitoring the manufacturing process. With quality

control there is some development from the basic inspection activity in terms of the

sophistication of methods, systems, tools and techniques employed. While the main

mechanism for preventing off-specification products and services from being delivered to a

customer is again screening inspection. Quality control measures help increase process

control and to lower incidence of non-conformances. Quality control will not improve quality

but just highlight when products and services do not conform to requirements. An over

emphasis on quality control will result in people relying on their work to be checked and

tends to stop them from taking responsibility for improving the processes for which they are

responsible.

2.2.3 Quality Assurance

Finding and solving a problem after a non-conformance has been created is not an effective

means of eliminating the root cause of a problem. Continuous improvement can only be

achieved by directing organizational efforts towards planning and preventing problems

occurring at source. This concept leads to the third stage of quality management development

which is quality assurance. In short, more emphasis is placed on advanced quality planning,

improving the design of the product, process and services, improving control over the

process, and involving and motivating people.

2.2.4 Total Quality Management

The fourth and highest level of quality management is TQM. TQM is a management

philosophy, a paradigm, a continuous improvement approach to doing business through a

new management model. TQM expands beyond statistical process control to embrace a wider

scope of management activities of how to manage people and organizations by focusing on

the entire process, not just simple measurements. This involves the application of quality

management principles, these are: continuous improvement, customer focus, honesty,

sincerity and care to all aspects of the business, including customers and suppliers. TQM is

composed of three paradigms:

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Total: Involving the entire organization

Quality: conformance to requirements (meeting customer requirements)

Management: Science and art or manner of planning, controlling, directing and the

like

There are Seven Basic Tools of Quality which can be used to analyze and subsequently

intervene to eliminate the problems from the production system. Despite a lofty title, such as

Statistical Quality Control or Statistical Process Control (SQC/SPC), understanding and using

does not require advanced knowledge of statistics. Rather, the seven basic tools of quality

and formalized body of techniques involve tabulating, depicting, and describing data

sets. Once the system is visible, the describing and identifying appropriate actions to

improve the processes and systems are generally self-evident.

The seven tools are listed below:

1. Check sheet

2. Histogram

3. Pareto analysis

4. Process flow chart

5. Cause-Effect diagram

6. Scatter diagram

7. Control Chart

In this research we will use only four tools out of these seven. These four tools are as below:

1. Check sheet

2. Pareto analysis

3. Process flow chart

4. Cause-Effect diagram

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2.3 QUALITY TOOLS

2.3.1 Check Sheet

The Check Sheet, also called a ‘Defect Concentration Diagram’, is basically a data collection

sheet. It is a simple tool used to record data for further processing. The data collection sheet

should be pre-printed and highly systematic and structured, such that identification of

problem becomes easier.

This is a generic tool that can be adapted for a wide variety of purposes, although mainly for

identifying frequency or patterns of events, problems, defects, defect location, defect causes,

etc. This is a widely used tool for statistical quality control purpose to analyze production

process [16].

2.3.1.1 Procedure of preparing a check sheet

1. Decide what event or problem will be observed. Develop operational definitions.

2. Decide when data will be collected and for how long.

3. Design the form. Set it up so that data can be recorded simply by making check marks

or Xs or similar symbols and so that data do not have to be recopied for analysis.

4. Label all spaces on the form.

5. Test the check sheet for a short trial period to be sure it collects the appropriate data

and is easy to use.

6. Each time the targeted event or problem occurs, record data on the check sheet in tally

format.

Success from a data collection sheet largely depends on classification of problem types. A

wrongly designed and inappropriately classified data sheet may not carry any significant

information for further analysis. The following (Table 2.1) is an example of a structured

check sheet, which gathers data in a shop producing cylindrical components in a Lathe

machine.

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Table 2.1: An example of check sheet for data collection. [16]

Check Sheet

Product Name:

Dept.:

Inspectors Name:

Approved by:

Product ID:

Shift In-Charge:

Lot No.:

Date:

Type of defects Checks Frequency

Wrong Specifications //// //// //// // 17

Cracks //// //// / 11

Surface scars //// // 7

Broken //// 4

Others // 2

Total defects //// //// //// //// //// //// //// //// / 41

Data can be collected randomly, on different days, at different times, in different shops or

work places, of different workers or processes or machines, etc., in order to clearly point out

the exact location or source of and reasons for defects. Thus, it can be an extensive data

collection form, which must be standardized.

Information from this data collection sheet is generally used for further analysis in

Histogram, another important tool of TQM.

2.3.2 Pareto Chart

This is a simple statistical chart, also known as Pareto diagram or Pareto analysis, but very

useful in quality control.

In the early nineteenth century, the famous Italian Economist Vilfredo Pareto observed and

stated that about 80% of the country’s wealth is occupied by about 20% of the population.

This famous observation was later on named as ‘80-20’ rule. Although the observation was

concentrated on only wealth distribution in the society, later on it was found by the

researchers in other fields that this is equally applicable to other knowledge areas too. This is

11

now applied to materials management, more specifically to materials grading, or

classification, which is popularly known as ABC analysis.

This is also applied to quality control, to mean many things, one being: about 20 percent

causes/reasons are responsible for 80% defects in a shop. Although, initially this was

classified as 80-20 distribution, it is not that strict in numerical values. It can well be 15-85

distribution, or something else. It can be generalized as – only a few causes are responsible

for majority of the problems. These ‘few’ (say, 20% causes) are known as ‘vital few’,

whereas the rest ‘many’ (say, 80% causes) are known as ‘Trivial Many’. While vital few

occurs frequently, trivial many occurs infrequently. Thus, one should concentrate on vital

few, not on trivial many [16].

2.3.2.1 Description of Pareto chart

A Pareto chart looks like a cumulative bar graph. The lengths of the bars represent frequency

or cost (time or money), and are arranged with longest bars on the left and the shortest to the

right. The longest bar represents the most vital cause.

This is graphical tool for ranking causes from most significant to least significant. It depicts a

series of vertical bars lined up in a descending order - from high to low - to reflect frequency,

importance, or priority. The following is an example (Table 2.2 and Figure 2.2) of a Pareto

analysis of defects that occurred in products from finishing section in a garment factory.

Table 2.2: Frequency of defects in finishing section.

Defect Name Frequency Percent Oil Spot 29523 31.57%

Dirty Spot 22859 56.02% Iron Problem 16157 73.30%

Pleat 8224 82.09% Reverse 7986 90.63%

Broken Stitch 4196 95.12% Skip Stitch 3215 98.56% Open Seam 634 99.23%

Uncut Thread 367 99.63% Label missing 350 100.00%

Based on this table, a Pareto chart is prepared, as given in Figure 2.2.

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Figure 2.2: Pareto diagram for defects in finishing section.

2.3.2.2 Application of Pareto chart

When analyzing data about the frequency of problems or causes in a process.

When there are many problems or causes and the quality analyst wants to focus on the

most significant.

When analyzing broad causes by looking at their specific components.

When analyzing the characteristics of the shop, or production process.

2.3.2.3 Procedure of preparing a Pareto chart

1. Decide what categories you will use to group items.

2. Decide what measurement is appropriate. Common measurements are frequency,

quantity, cost and time.

3. Decide what period of time the chart will cover: One work cycle? One full day? A

week?

4. Collect the data, recording the category each time. (Or assemble data that already

exist.)

5. Subtotal the measurements for each category.

29523

22859

16157

8224 7986 4196 3215

634 367 350 0%

20%

40%

60%

80%

100%

120%

0

5000

10000

15000

20000

25000

30000

35000

Defects Name

Cum

ulat

ive

% o

f Def

ect

Def

ect Q

ty.

Pareto Chart (Finishing Defects)

Defect Qty Cumulative % of Defect

13

6. Determine the appropriate scale for the measurements you have collected. The

maximum value will be the largest subtotal from step 5. (If you will do optional steps

8 and 9 below, the maximum value will be the sum of all subtotals from step 5.) Mark

the scale on the left side of the chart.

7. Construct and label bars for each category. Place the tallest at the far left, then the

next tallest to its right and so on. If there are many categories with small

measurements, they can be grouped as “other.”

Steps 8 and 9 are optional but are useful for analysis and communication.

8. Calculate the percentage for each category: the subtotal for that category divided by

the total for all categories. Draw a right vertical axis and label it with percentages. Be

sure the two scales match: For example, the left measurement that corresponds to one-

half should be exactly opposite 50% on the right scale.

9. Calculate and draw cumulative sums: Add the subtotals for the first and second

categories, and place a dot above the second bar indicating that sum. To that sum add

the subtotal for the third category, and place a dot above the third bar for that new

sum. Continue the process for all the bars. Connect the dots, starting at the top of the

first bar. The last dot should reach 100 percent on the right scale.

2.3.3 Process Flow Chart

Process flow chart is a graphical tool that shows the major steps in a process. This is

alternatively known as Run chart, or Route Sheet, Process Map. Flowcharts are a useful tool

for examining how various steps are related to each other. By studying these charts

individuals and teams can often uncover potential sources of trouble and/or identify steps to

be taken to improve or error-proof a process.

Process flow chart focuses on the specific processes that raw materials, parts and sub-

assemblies follow as they move through the plant. This chart is a useful diagnosis tool and

can be used to improve the performances at each step in the operations. Indeed the standard

first step in analyzing any production is to map the flows.

This is equally applicable to service organizations as well. The flow of papers and

information, flow of service may well require a flow chart as an aid to diagnosis.

14

A complete diagnosis of a sub-system certainly requires information on its input side and

output side, because, the sub-system may interact with or may be affected by the preceding

part or operations and requirements/constraints in the succeeding operations. Thus, a

complete view of a process flow helps an analyst to pin point the exact location, or source of

disturbance. The following figure (Figure 2.3) shows a brief schematic view of a process flow

chart.

Figure 2.3: A process flow chart.

The American Production and Inventory Control Society (APICS) have suggested using pre-

defined standard symbols for depicting such process flow chart. However, this is not

mandatory. A company may define its own symbols, or a normal graphical schematic graph,

like in Figure 2.3, may also be used. But in any case, symbols must be standardized in a

company, even though it is their own. Different analyst in a company must not use different

symbols of his/her own.

This tool, though highly useful, has not been suggested by large majority of the quality

experts as the eighth tool of TQM. This is widely prescribed for use as a good analysis tool,

not exactly a TQM tool. Thus, a large cross section of quality related papers do not cover this

topic in their TQM chapter, rather it is most commonly found in the literature of operations

management. However, a small cross section of papers does suggest this as a tool of TQM

[16].

2.3.4 Cause-Effect (CE) Diagram

There are must be many potential reasons, or “Causes”, which ultimately lead to create an

adverse “Effect”. Here, the ‘Effect’ is the quality problem. Cause-Effect (CE) analysis is a

tool for analyzing and illustrating a process by showing the main causes and sub-causes

leading to an effect (symptom). It is sometimes referred to as the "Ishikawa diagram”,

Cutting Sewing Finishing Fabrics/Raw

materials

Complete

Garments

15

because Kaoru Ishikawa developed it, and the "fishbone diagram," because the complete

diagram resembles a fish skeleton. The fishbone is easy to construct and invites interactive

participation.

2.3.4.1 Procedure of constructing a Cause-Effect (CE) diagram

The following materials are needed, for gathering information from a brainstorming session:

a flipchart or whiteboard, marking pens.

The following step-by-step procedure may be followed to construct a CE diagram:

1. Agree on a problem statement (effect). Write it at the center right of the flipchart or

whiteboard. Draw a box around it and draw a horizontal arrow running to it.

2. Brainstorm the major categories of causes of the problem. If this is difficult use

generic headings:

o Methods

o Machines (equipment)

o People (manpower)

o Materials

o Measurement

o Management

o Environment

3. Write the categories of causes as branches from the main arrow. These branches are

known as Twigs.

4. Brainstorm all the possible causes of the problem. Ask: “Why does this happen?” As

each idea is given, the facilitator writes it as a branch from the appropriate category.

Causes can be written in several places if they relate to several categories.

5. Again ask “why does this happen?” about each cause. Write sub-causes branching off

the causes. The sub-branches are known as Twiglets. Continue to ask “Why?” and

generate deeper levels of causes. Layers of branches indicate causal relationships.

6. When the group runs out of ideas, focus attention to places on the chart where ideas

are few.

16

2.3.4.2 Types of Cause-Effect (CE) analysis

There are many different types of CE diagrams, of which the following two are more widely

used:

1. Cause Enumeration

2. Process Analysis

2.3.4.2.1 Cause enumeration

This is the most commonly used CE diagrams in industries. This identifies one-by-one all

possible causes from brainstorming sessions and then classifies into groups. Specialists from

concerned departments, like engineering and design, procurement, quality assurance,

maintenance, production, etc. form the group. Participants in the brainstorming session are

encouraged to think freely and suggest from experience, judgment, anticipation, etc. The

following (Figure 2.4) is an example of a general form of cause enumeration diagram.

Figure 2.4: Cause enumeration.

Effect

(Problem)

Man Machine Material

Method Measurement Environment

Tooling Composition

ratio Composition

uniformity

Setup

Management

Power

Type/grade

Accuracy

Hardness Commitment

Support

System

Rules Skill

Training

Motivation

SOP Appropriatenes

s

Calibration

Accuracy

Update

Vibration Noise

Temperature Humidity

Dust

17

2.3.4.2.2 Process analysis

A simple cause enumeration may not identify exact location of occurrence in the complete

process. A process analysis type CE diagram can do that.

Its structure is totally different from the earlier type of CE analysis. It follows the process

step-by-step and causes are listed as per process step. Thus, prior to developing a CE

diagram, process flow chart is a must. Additionally, participation of the process owners is

also a must in the brainstorming session. The main advantage of creating this type of CE

diagram is its ability in pinpointing the exact location of occurrence.

The following figure (Figure 2.5) shows a process type CE diagram for production of bread

in a bakery shop.

Figure 2.5: Process type CE diagram.

Bread

production

Recipe Packaging

Method Environment

Carton size

Ingredient list

Oven

Expiry Label

Material

Temperature

Pot

Placement

Quality

Amount or

ratio

Source

Mixing Skill

Sequence of

mixing

Pot size

Pot

material

Timing

Location Hygiene

Temperature Humidity

Dust

Flour

dough and

Ingredients

Mixing Cooking

Timing Air flow

Utensils

Method

selection

Storage

18

It is not a question as to which CE diagram should be used; rather the main strategic issue in

quality control is to combine the ideas of both types. Finding out a cause and pinpointing its

location may require use of both CE diagrams at a time [16].

2.4 PILLARS OF TQM IMPLEMENTATION

The definition of TQM may sound simple, but the implementation of it in practice requires an

organizational culture and climate. It takes time and patience to complete the process. The

process does not occur overnight, the results may not see for a long period of time. Some

experts say that it takes up to ten years to fully realize the results of implementing quality

management. There are several steps that must be taken in the process of shifting to quality

management in an organization. Jablonski identified six attributes for successful

implementation of TQM program [17]. Those are: Customer focus, Process focus, Prevention

verses inspection, Employee empowerment and compensation, Fact-based decision making,

Receptiveness to feedback. Another perception about TQM are: Customer Defined Quality;

Top Management Leadership; Primary focus on strategic planning; Employee responsibility

at all levels of the organization; Focus on continuous quality improvement to achieve

strategic goals; Cooperative efforts between Employees and Management; Utilization of

Statistical Process Control (SPC); and Continuous improvement through training and

education of the whole workforce [18]. Ahsan Akhtar Hasin [16] identifies some

distinguishing characteristics about TQM, which are: Continual improvement; Customer

focus; Organization-wide activity; Employee empowerment; Team approach; Competitive

benchmarking; Knowledge of quality control tools; Internal and external customers; and

Long term relationship with suppliers Other perceptions about TQM implementation are:

Provide a QM environment, Modify reward systems, Prepare workers for TQM, Prepare

employees to measure quality, Identify the appropriate starting place, Share information with

everyone, Include quality as an element of design, Make error prevention the norm,

Encourage cooperation and teamwork, Make continuous improvement the goal [19].

From the above literature, it is found that some authors propose six pillars, while the others

propose nine pillars, eleven pillars for a successful implementation of TQM. However,

adopting the scholars’ guidelines in identifying pillars of TQM implementation, we have

19

selected 11 pillars, which are presented in Table-2.3. Note that the order of the pillars placed

in the table does not represent the relative importance of the pillars.

Table-2.3: Pillars of TQM implementation

I. Creation of Quality Management (QM) environment P1

II. Introduction of employees to total quality management (TQM) P2

III. Using of statistical control technique for measuring quality P3

IV. Identification of the appropriate starting place P4

V. Sharing information with everyone for decision taking P5

VI. Encouraging cooperation and teamwork P6

VII. Customer focus as an element of design P7

VIII. Modification of reward systems P8

IX. Selection of right raw materials P9

X. Benchmarking P10

XI. Building continuous improvement the goal P11

2.5 MANAGEMENT OF QUALITY IN GARMENT INDUSTRY

Quality management involves integrated systems checks and balances among a firm’s

suppliers and customers and within the firm’s areas of specialization to assure that finished

products meet quality standards. A combination of visual inspection, measurements,

laboratory tests, and wear tests may be used to evaluate conformance to standards. Goods are

accepted or rejected based on the evaluation. Results are recorded, analyzed, and reported to

management. Sources of defects are identified and steps are taken to reduce variation,

including evaluating materials before production, evaluating products during production, and

evaluating post production results.

2.5.1 Preproduction Quality Assurance:

Preproduction planning for quality assurance requires the cooperation of designers,

merchandisers, production managers, and quality specialists. Decisions are made that

determine aesthetic appeal, performance, and intrinsic quality of garments.

2.5.2 Quality Assurance during Production: Assuring quality during the production

process requires additional strategies. Quality management personnel may evaluate outgoing

20

specification sheets and incoming production samples. Some apparel firms uses quality

inspection system that depends on 100% inspection of finished products.

2.5.3 Postproduction Quality Assurance:

Quality Assurance programs continue while goods are stored at production plants, in

manufacturers’ distribution centers, and in retailers’ distribution centers. Important means of

quality assurance of finished goods include quality audits and analysis of finished goods [2].

2.6 QUALITY IMPROVEMENT

Inspecting every product is costly and inefficient, but the consequences of shipping

nonconforming product can be significant in terms of customer dissatisfaction [20]. As a

result, the underlying aim of quality improvement is to ensure in a cost efficient manner that

the product shipped to customers meets their specifications. Higher product quality is

required for a company to become more competitive, both locally and in international trade

as shown in Figure 2.6. Improved quality increases productivity, hence, many world-class

firms and nations use quality as a powerful competitive tool [21].

Figure 2.6: Quality and Competitiveness [19]

Continuous improvement of quality is needed since there are competition pressures and

customer needs are a moving target. Therefore, quality goals must keep shifting to respond to

the changes that keep coming over the horizon i.e. new technology, new competition, threats,

and opportunities [22]. The TQM tools are the most widely used tools for continuous

improvement for quality.

21

2.7 GARMENT PRODUCTION PROCESS

Garment production process is fragmented and labor-intensive. With low capital and skill

requirements, it is ideally suited to the early stages of industrialization [23].

The production of a final garment consists of the consecutive steps shown in Figure 2.7[24]

2.7.1 Pattern Making: Patternmaking is the process of creating all the correctly sized pieces

needed to make a complete garment. The traditional method of pattern making includes

creation of hard paper patterns. The modern garment making system has adopted the

digitization of pattern making process. Most of Ethiopian garment industries are still using

the traditional method because the cost of computerized systems is prohibitive.

2.7.2 Pattern Grading: Pattern pieces must be increased or decreased geometrically to create

a complete range of sizes. The process of resizing the initial pattern is called grading. The

grade rules are developed keeping in view the market segment for which the product is

intended such as men, women, youth, children, etc.

2.7.3 Marker Making: Fabric is the most important basic material for apparel making and it

accounts for around 50 per cent of the cost of a garment. Thus, material optimization or

maximizing fabric utilization is the fundamental factor for every garment firm. Marking

refers to the process of placing pattern pieces to maximize the number of patterns that can be

cut out of a given piece of fabric. Marker making considers fabric width, length, fabric type

and subsequent cutting method used. Although markers can be made manually or using CAD

software, the computerized method is more efficient.

2.7.4 Garment Cutting: Once the marker is made, pattern pieces must be cut out of the

specified fabric. Apart from using traditional tools, nowadays, computerized cutting systems

are widely used for garment cutting. Pattern specifications are kept into consideration while

cutting which ensure that the constructed garment is exactly similar to the sample produced.

2.7.5 Garment Sewing: This is the main assembly stage of the production process where

fabric is stitched together and a garment is assembled. Computerized sewing machines can be

programmed to sew a specific number of stitches. However, sewing remains largely labor-

intensive.

22

2.7.6 Pressing and Finishing: After the sewing operation, the constructed garments are

examined, pressed, tagged and bagged. Special detailing such as pleats, embroidery and

screen printing to a garment are also added.

Figure 2.7: Garment Production Process [24]

Garment production techniques are divided into make through, assembly line and modular

methods [25]. The method used depends on the product type, quality level, order quantity,

level of technology and skills available.

In make through method a single operator undertakes the whole process. Therefore, little

supervision and organization are required. In addition, this method has a very low throughput

time because only one unit has to be finished at a time to complete the ord The disadvantage

of this system is that operator needs to conduct all the operations required to produce the

finished good and cannot learn any specialization.

Assembly line method is based on extreme division of labor. Its major advantage is that both

workers and machines are specialized, allowing for dramatic increase productivity. In

addition, the individual skills required by operators are greatly reduced. However, this

method of production needs excellent organizational ability so as to avoid idle time. Factors

like variations in individual operator performance, absenteeism machine breakdowns can

easily upset the working schedule. In addition, this makes it harder to handle style variations

and dramatically increases the lead time associated a finished batch of products.

Finishing

Trim Inspect Wash Press Pack

Assemble

Sew Ensure the pieces fit together at the end of sewing process

Pre-Assembly

Pattern making (determine layout of pattern on fabric)

Spread (Lay cloth on the table) Cut Buddle (ensure a pattern pieces

from same ply on fabric)

Production Planning

Order Fabric/Accessories Schedule production process

Garment Design

Creating Pattern

23

Chapter Three Research Methodology 3.1 INTRODUCTION This research has been carried out in a selected garments factory located in Gazipur from July

2011 to November 2011. The main product of this factory is knit based garments like t-shirt,

polo shirt, ladies tops etc. The reasons behind select this factory; the management of this

factory was trying to improve the quality but they did not get the optimum results. Check

Sheet is used in cutting, sewing and finishing section to count the number of defect of the

selected garments factory then analyzed with Pareto analysis to identify the defect groups

which can give the maximum advantages. After getting these defect groups we find out the

root cause by using Cause & Effect diagram. We defined the counter measure against the root

causes. We implemented the countermeasures to improve the quality as well as to reduce the

rework. This chapter presents the methodology of data collection and steps required to

perform the case study with flow diagram.

3.2 RESEARCH PROCESS IN FLOW CHART

We followed the following process to conduct our research.

Figure-3.1: Research Process in Flow chart

Result and Discussion

Implementation

Conduct Training on TQM

Data Processing and Analysis

Data Collection

Finding the Literature

Conducting Primary Observation

24

3.3 STEPS INVOLVED IN THE RESEARCH Step-1: Conducting primary Observation

A primary observation was conducted in different sections such as cutting, sewing, and

finishing section of the production floor of the selected garment industry in order to

understand the overall manufacturing & quality process including materials flow. This study

helps to understand the plants, what method they follows, how it works.

Step-2: Finding literature review

The selected topic was found by searching the internet, some papers related to TQM and

quality improvement garments industry, different books. Based on this materials we prepared

the literature review.

Step 3: Data collection

In this step, we collected data from the selected garment factory by direct observation. To

collect the data from production floor the quality department of factory helps to do this by

using the researcher’s prepared check sheet.

Step 4: Data processing and analysis

Data itself cannot tell the actual fact rather than analyzed, thus it has to be interpreted by the

researchers. Collected data were gathered and arranged in such a way so it has a good

structure and becomes easy to understand. Pareto analysis and cause-effect diagram is used

to analyze the data.

Step 5: Conduct Trainings on TQM

To implement any tools in manufacturing related factory the knowledge on these tools is a

must to get the optimum result. Employees are trained with the tools and techniques that are

needed to upgrade the company's quality. Workers understand the philosophy of quality

management (QM). Everyone in the organization is trained in the use of Quality control and

improvement tools.

25

Step 6: Implementation

The implementation phase is divided in two steps: one is implement the pillars of TQM from

literature review and another is action taken against the root causes analyzed the product

quality by TQM tools.

Step 7: Results & Discussion In this step, results from the overall analysis are given with the help of descriptive and tabular form.

26

Chapter Four Findings and Analysis

4.1 FINDINGS WITH TQM PILLARS

Table 4.1: Current Practices of TQM Pillars

Sl. No. Pillar Current Status/Practice

P1 Quality Management

(QM) environment

The current knowledge on quality of employee is very

limited, they only know inspection based quality control,

and they don’t know anything about quality tools.

Currently they are using check sheet only. Awareness on

quality is also very low.

P2 Introduction of

employees to total

quality management

(TQM)

Very little top management has a little idea about TQM.

Mid & bottom line management have no idea about TQM.

P3 Using of statistical

control technique for

measuring quality

Using the Buyer’s defined AQL system, sampling systems

and the don’t using any other statistical control techniques

for measuring quality. Though they are using AQL systems

but they don’t know background and any details about this.

P4 Identification of the

appropriate starting

place

The quality management team doesn’t use any tools to set

priority for problem solving. They are working like as

firefighter, whatever the problems arise they just try to

solve it by hitting on symptoms rather than root cause.

P5 Sharing information

with everyone for

decision taking

The information sharing system is not good; they collect

some data by using check sheet but don’t have any

summary and further analysis.

P6 Encouraging

cooperation and

teamwork

Production department thinks quality is not their job, and

quality department think their jobs is just to maintain

quality they have nothing to contribute in production.

P7 Customer focus as an

element of design

The goal of customer satisfaction is not incorporated in the

planning processes. Customer requirements are not

identified as the first step to designing other activities.

27

P8 Reward systems There is no special reward or incentive system based on

performance only traditional pay plans available; based on

seniority, not on quality and performance.

P9 Selection of right

raw materials

Management tries to select right raw material but they

don’t focus to build up long term trust-based relationship

with supplies.

P10 Benchmarking The Benchmarking procedure to measures products,

service, and process against those of industry leaders is not

in practiced.

P11 Building continuous

improvement the

goal

Concept of continues improvement is not in practice even

there is no goal for improvement.

4.2 DEFECT FIND OUT

There are some common defects which occur frequently during manufacturing the garments.

We got some common defects by using check sheet. These defects are as below

Oil spot

Dirty spot

Skip stitch

Point up down

Open seam

Pleat

Puckering

Uneven stitch

Broken stitch

Raw edge

Needle Cut

Needle mark

Join stitch

Insecure stitch

Shading

Reverse

Label missing

Uncut thread

4.3 CHECK SHEET

Check sheet is the basic tool for the analysis of SQC. The management of Quality Control

department in Masco Industries Ltd was using a check sheet; we modified a little to collect

data in more structured way. Some data which is taken on the basis of reject. And some data,

we have taken which is considered for rework. From the above defect list, we found that

28

some defect is happened continuously. From the below check list, we see the defect

frequency and the defect name.

Figure 4.1: Check sheet for Cutting Section

29

Quality Inspection-100% (Sewing)

Style No. Order No. QC Name Line

No.

Date:

8:00-

9:00

9:00-

10:00

10:00-

11:00

11:00-

12:00

12:00-

1:00

2:00-

3:00

3:00-

4:00

4:00-

5:00

No. Pcs

Checked

Total

Defects

Hourly

DHU

Supervisor

Line

Quality

Name of

Operation

Defects Name

Total

Defect

wise DHU

Figure 4.2: Check sheet for Sewing Section

30

4.3.1 Defect in Cutting section

In Cutting section we collected total 91,9797 pieces and found 16,750 defects.

Table 4.2: Defects in Cutting Section

Defects name Quantity

Fabric hole 7557

Spot 3435

Fabrics dia short 1145

Yarn contamination 1025

Yarn missing 883

Slub 700

Lacra missing 535

Crease mark 450

Printing problem 680

Shade variation in fabrics 340

Total 16750

31

4.3.2 Defects in Sewing Section

Total check Quantity 483,131 Pcs and Total number of defects 34,890

Table 4.3: Defects in Sewing Section

Defect name with code Defect Qty.

Oil Spot (324) 7571

Dirty Spot (305) 5609

Skip stitch (334) 7089

Pleat (326) 3009

Open seam (325) 1826

Point up down (327) 1441

Uncut thread (339) 1413

Uneven stitch (340) 250

Reverse (331) 1246

Broken stitch (301) 67

Tack missing (344) 20

Button attach(301) 495

Tension bad (336) 207

Raw edge (330) 977

Down stitch (307) 106

Dyeing spot (308) 59

Label missing (318) 80

Puckering (329) 58

Others 3359

Total 34,890

32

4.3.3 Rejection in sewing section

Total Check Quantity 483131 Pieces & Reject Quantity 2762 Pieces

Table 4.4: Rejection in Sewing Section

Reject name Quantity

Hole 357


Slub 80

Yarn missing 222


Scissor cut 186

Insecure button 477

Spot 450

Lycra missing 150

Needle cut 550

Total 2,762

4.3.4 Defects in finishing section

Total check Quantity 490397 pieces and total defect quantity 93511

Table 4.5: Defects in Finishing Section

Defects Name Quantity Pleat 8224

Oil Spot 29523 Skip Stitch 3215 Open Seam 634

Label missing 350 Reverse 7986

Dirty Spot 22859 Uncut Thread 367 Broken Stitch 4196 Iron Problem 16157

Total 93,511

33

4.3.5 Rejection in Finishing

Total Check quantity 490,397 pieces & Reject quantity 5,957 pieces

Table 4.6: Rejection in Finishing Section

Rejection Name Quantity Fabric hole 1424 Needle cut 1133

Foreign Yarn 896 Insecure button 680

Scissor cut 545 Wash fell 425

Color shade 410 Print Fault 230

Yarn missing 124 Lycra missing 90

Total 5,957

4.4 PROCESS FLOW CHART

Process flow chart is a graphical tool that shows the major steps in a process. This is

alternatively known as Run chart, or Route Sheet, Process Map. Flowcharts are a useful tool

for examining how various steps are related to each other. By studying these charts

individuals and teams can often uncover potential sources of trouble and/or identify steps to

be taken to improve or error-proof a process.

Process flow chart focuses on the specific processes that raw materials, parts and sub-

assemblies follow as they move through the plant. This chart is a useful diagnosis tool and

can be used to improve the performances at each step in the operations. Indeed the standard

first step in analyzing any production is to map the flows.

34

4.4.1 Process Flowchart in Cutting Section

Figure 4.3: Process Flowchart of Cutting Section

Fabrics Receive from Store

Quality Inspection

Cutting

Fabric Laying

Set up Marker Paper

Numbering at panel

Bundle tight

Final Inspection

Send to sewing section

35

4.4.2 Process Flowchart in Sewing Section

Figure 4.4: Process Flowchart of Sewing Section

4.4.3 Process Flowchart in Finishing Section

Figure 4.5: Process Flowchart of Finishing Section

Dressing/

Measurement

Getup Quality

Carton

Sizewise

arranging (2)

Sucker Bundling Ironing Final QualitySizewise

arranging (1)

Hanger foldingShading

ConfirmLabel check Price Tagging

Separate (Size

& Country)Poly

Input Cut Panel to

sewing line

Sewing

Quality Inspection

Quali

ty

Pass

Send Finishing Section

Not OK

OK

Random Inspection by

Quality inspector

(Irregular)

36

4.5 PARETO CHART

4.5.1 Pareto analysis for Cutting Defects

Table 4.7: Defects in Cutting Section for Pareto analysis

Figure 4.6: Pareto Chart for cutting Defects

All the data collected by check sheet has been plotted in Pareto chart and found the 20%

defects that cause 80% problems. The 20% defects are Fabric hole, Spot, Fabrics dia short,

Yarn contamination, Yarn missing etc.

7557

3435

1145 1025 883 700 680 535 450 340 00.10.20.30.40.50.60.70.80.91

0

2000

4000

6000

8000

10000

12000

14000

16000

Cum

ulat

ive%

of D

efec

t

Def

ect Q

ty

Defect name

Pareto Chart (Cutting Section)

Defects name Quantity

Fabric hole 7557

Spot 3435

Fabrics dia short 1145


Yarn missing 883

Slub 700

Lacra missing 535

Crease mark 450


Shade variation in fabrics 340

Total Defects 16750

37

4.5.2 Pareto analysis for Sewing Defects

Table 4.8: Defects in Sewing Section for Pareto analysis

Defect name with code Defect Qty.

Oil Spot (324) 7571

Dirty Spot (305) 5609

Skip stitch (334) 7089

Pleat (326) 3009

Open seam (325) 1826

Point up down (327) 1441

Uncut thread (339) 1413

Uneven stitch (340) 250

Reverse (331) 1246

Broken stitch (301) 67

Tack missing (344) 20

Button attach(301) 495

Tension bad (336) 207

Raw edge (330) 977

Down stitch (307) 106

Dyeing spot (308) 59

Label missing (318) 80

Puckering (329) 58

Others 3359

Total Defects 34,890

38

Figure 4.7: Pareto Chart for Sewing Defects


defects that causes of 80% problems. The 20% defects are Oil Spot, Skip Stitch, Dirty Spot,

Pleat, Open Seam, Point updown.

7571 7089

5609

3009

1826 1441 1413 1246 977 495 250 207 106 80 67 59 59 27

3359

0102030405060708090100

0

1000

2000

3000

4000

5000

6000

7000

8000

Cum

ulat

ive

perc

enta

ge o

f def

ect

Def

ect Q

'ty

Defect name

Pareto chart (Sewing Defects)

Defect Q'ty Cumulative percentage of defect

39

4.5.3 Pareto analysis for Sewing Rejection

Table 4.9: Rejections in Sewing Section for Pareto analysis

Reject name Quantity

Hole 357


Slub 80

Yarn missing 222


Scissor cut 186

Insecure button 477

Spot 450

Lycra missing 150

Needle cut 550

Total Rejection 2762 Pieces

Figure 4.8: Pareto Chart for Sewing Rejection


Rejects that causes of 80% wastes. The 20% Rejects were Needle cut, insecure button, Spot,

Hole, Yarn missing, Scissor cut etc.

550 477 450

357

222 186 170 150 120

80

0%

20%

40%

60%

80%

100%

120%

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

Rejection Type

Cum

ulat

ive

% o

f Rej

ectio

n

Rej

ect Q

ty.

Pareto Chart (Sewing Rejection)

Reject Qty. Cumulative % of Defect

40

4.5.4 Pareto analysis for Finishing Defects

Table 4.10: Defects in Finishing Section for Pareto analysis

Defects Name Quantity Pleat 8224

Oil Spot 29523 Skip Stitch 3215 Open Seam 634

Label missing 350 Reverse 7986

Dirty Spot 22859 Uncut Thread 367 Broken Stitch 4196 Iron Problem 16157 Total Defects 93,511

Figure 4.9: Pareto Chart for Finishing Defects


defects that causes of 80% problems. The 20% defects are Oil Spot, Dirty Spot, Iron problem,

Pleat etc.

29523

22859

16157

8224 7986

4196 3215 634 367 350

0%

20%

40%

60%

80%

100%

120%

0

5000

10000

15000

20000

25000

30000

35000

Oil Spot DirtySpot

IronProblem

Pleat Reverse BrokenStitch

SkipStitch

OpenSeam

UncutThread

Labelmissing

Defects Name

Cum

ulat

ive

% o

f Def

ect

Def

ect Q

ty.

Pareto Chart (Finishing Defects)

Defect Qty Cumulative % of Defect

41

4.5.5 Pareto analysis for Rejection in finishing section

Table 4.11: Rejections in Finishing Section for Pareto analysis

Rejection Name Quantity Fabric hole 1424 Needle cut 1133

Foreign Yarn 896 Insecure button 680

Scissor cut 545 Wash fell 425

Color shade 410 Print Fault 230

Yarn missing 124 Lycra missing 90

Total 5,957

Figure 4.10: Pareto Chart for Finishing Rejection


Rejects that causes of 80% wastes. The 20% Rejects were Fabric hole, Needle cut, Yarn

contamination, insecure button etc.

1424

1133

896

680 545

425 410

230 124 90

0%

20%

40%

60%

80%

100%

120%

0

200

400

600

800

1000

1200

1400

1600

Fabrichole

Needlecut

ForeignYarn

Insecurebutton

Scissorcut

Washfell

Colorshade

PrintFault

Yarnmissing

Lycramissing

Rejection Type

Cum

ulat

ive

% o

f Rej

ectio

n

Rej

ect Q

ty.

Pareto Chart (Finishing Rejection)

Reject Qty. Cumulative % of Defect

42

4.6 CAUSE-EFFECT DIAGRAM

Figure 4.12: Cause and Effect diagram of Skip Stitch

Figure 4.11: Cause-Effect diagram for Spot

43

Figure 4.13: Cause and Effect diagram of Uneven Stitch

Fig-5: Cause and Effect diagram of Uneven Stitch

Figure 4.14: Cause and Effect diagram of Raw edge

44

Figure 4.15: Cause and Effect diagram of Pleat

Figure 4.16: Cause and Effect diagram of Twisting

45

Figure 4.17: Cause and Effect diagram of Scissoring

46

Chapter Five Implementation

5.1 IMPLEMENTATION

The implementation phase is divided in two steps: one is implement the pillars of TQM from

literature review and another is action taken against the root causes analyzed the product

quality by TQM tools.

5.2 STEP-1: IMPLEMENT THE TQM PILLARS

P1: Creation of Quality Management (QM) environment

We arranged so many trainings on basic knowledge of quality, safety issue, use of safety

devices etc for the employees dividing them into different groups such as Top management,

Mid management and lower management. This training covers all levels of employees from

top management to workers. We have arranged training on Check list or defect concentration

diagram, Process flow chart, Root cause analysis based on Cause & effect Diagram. We have

also prepared seminar on TQM (Total Quality Management) from Top management

(Executive Director) to worker.

Garments Inspection Procedure

Figure 5.1: Garments Inspection Sequence

47

Checking Sequence 1. Left Sleeve Area 2. Neck Area 3. Right Sleeve 4. Side seam & Front Part 5. Bottom Area 6. Back Part 7. Inside Check & Stickering

Figure 5.2: Defect Library

P2: Introduction of Employees with TQM

Employees are trained with the tools and techniques that are needed to upgrade the company's

quality. Workers understand the philosophy of quality management (QM). Everyone in the

organization is trained in the use of Quality control and improvement tools. Regular training

programs on various knowledge tools are required for building not only knowledge base, but

also raise the motivation levels of the employees. Training need identification is thus

necessary. We divided the employees in three categories based on level and arranged the

customized training for them. The level and employees under the particular level is below:

Top Management

Executive Director

General Manager

Industrial Engineering Dept.

48

Production Manager

Quality Manager

Cutting Manager

HR Manager

Mid management

Floor in charge

Finishing in charge

Cutting in charge

Quality controller

Other related person

Bottom line staff/worker

Asst. Quality controller

Line chief

Supervisors

Line Quality

Operator

Other related person

Figure 5.3: Training Sessions on TQM

P3: Use of statistical process control (SPC) tools

Employees are trained to use SPC tools and techniques. We are applying hourly 10 Pcs

Quality checking system for each process by using sign on traffic light board. For one defect

sign Yellow, two or more than two defects sign Red and for no defect sign Green. We are also

49

preparing measurement report by randomly measuring complete garments. Again we also

follow Quality Audit report for sewing, finishing & cutting. Final Quality of garments are

controlled by AQL (Acceptable Quality level) 1.5, 2.5, 4.5 etc.

P4: Identification of starting point As our concern is to improve quality of a garment industry so we start from product quality.

Product quality improvement means reduction of defect and rework to do so we applied

Pareto analysis to define the start point of reducing defect. We have find out 20% causes of

defect for each floor by Pareto analysis. We made a root cause analysis report for 20% defect

& solution procedures for that’s defect. We also applied TQM Concept for reducing Repair,

Rejection etc.

P5: Information sharing in decision taking

We have started the team approach; teams are formed among employees to solve the quality

related problems. Giving workers the responsibility for improvements, and the authority to

make changes to accomplish them, provides strong motivation for employees, and puts

decision making into the hands of those who are closest to the job and have considerable

insight into problems and solutions.

Now employees are involved in the decision-making process. We have made check list,

Needle control report, Measurement report, Quality Audit report, Root cause report, DHU

(Defect per hundred unit), Final inspection report by AQL 1.5, 2.5, 4.5 etc. All reports are

visible to relevant persons who are involved in production from top management to worker.

Some reports are also present in front of each Floor or work station. So easily everybody can

take decision & share knowledge to each other.

P6: Encouraging cooperation and teamwork

The approach of encouraging cooperation and teamwork has started and the blaming culture

has eliminated. This environment creates encourages innovative thoughts and practices of

employees. The combination of a team approach and QM means seeking to improve the

system when problems arise. The use of teams for problem solving, and to achieve consensus,

takes advantage of group dynamics, gets people involved, and promotes a spirit of

cooperation and shared values among employees.

We developed a team with multi skilled people which are interfacing of management and

50

production floor. We have also developed interlink among the team, Pro-active attitude,

working area of team, how job is done in the absence of team member & Causes of failure is

identified by investigating team work. This type of team creates healthy stress and

encourages innovative thoughts and practices of employees. Team work also reduces bottle

neck in production floor. We arranged daily, weekly & monthly meeting on Quality

development purposes.

P7: Customer focus as an element of design

We trained the employees about the customer satisfaction and now it is considered that

customer satisfaction is the focal point of the quality management system. This means that

the goal of customer satisfaction must be incorporated in the planning processes and then

maintained day in and day out. Customer focus is the main focal point and thus customer

satisfaction is the ultimate driving force of business. For higher customer satisfaction,

customer requirements should be identified as the first step to designing other activities.

We are very much conscious about customer requirements and built manufacturing process

along with customer needs. We presented Buyer requirements, their needs on Pre-production

comments by arranging preproduction meeting. W followed the major points of Dr. Juran’s

Quality management ideas, popularly known as ‘Quality Trilogy’:

Table 5.1: Quality Trilogy

Quality Planning

Identify who are the customers

Determine the needs of those customers

Translate those needs into our language.

Develop a product that can respond to those needs.

Optimize the product features so as to meet our needs

and customer needs.

Quality improvement

Develop a process which is able to produce the

product.

Optimize the process

Quality Control

Prove that the process can produce the product under

operating conditions with minimal inspection

Transfer the process to operations

51

P8: Modification of reward systems

We have started the reward system to encourage teamwork and innovation. Traditional pay

plans are often based on seniority, not on quality and performance. We modified traditional

pay plans which focus on team incentives. Incentive is an inducement or a Reward which is

given to a worker for efficiency, effectiveness and hard work. Incentives motivate and

encourage a worker to produce more and better Quality production.

We declared best employer & operator based on their performance & Quality in each month.

We consider their key performance indicator like as Efficiency, Target achievement, DHU

(Defect per hundred unit), Behavior/ Discipline/5S/Attitude. DHU is an important issue for

Quality. We define Green, Yellow & Red if DHU level respectively are <=5, 5 to 7 and above

7. Our best employee were Floor in charge, Supervisor & operator who receive incentives

respectively 2000 Tk, 1500 Tk & 1000 Tk. We also showed their picture on board in front of

Floor.

Figure 5.4: Prize giving ceremony for best performance

P9: Selection of right raw materials

Achievement of product quality needs to collect right raw materials at due time. We always

try to select right raw material and we encouraged to build up long term trust-based

relationship with supplies and engage combined effort to ensure the quality and availability of

raw materials. Suppliers were regarded as partners in the process and long-term relationships

are encouraged. This gave suppliers a vital stake in providing quality goods and services. We

inspired to supplier for providing quality at the source, thereby reduced or eliminated the

need to inspect deliveries from suppliers. We ensured fabrics by inspecting 4 point system &

other trims and accessories by visually inspecting. We always tried to follow Right time,

Right Quantity, Right place & Right Quality.

52

P10: Benchmarking

Designing and implementing an efficient new production or management system and

improving the performance of existing systems require adoption of best practices and

improvement in existing practices. Both adoption of new practices and improvement in

existing system require an efficient and dynamic change management system.

Many dynamic and progressive companies are now using benchmarking to assess their

postures against potential competitors and learn from others for continuous improvements in

business operations and processes.

We started the Benchmarking procedure to measures our products, service, and process

against those of industry leaders. We also compared our internal Quality status of Knitting,

Dyeing, Cutting, and Sewing & Finishing.

P11: Building continuous improvement goal

The quest for Quality and better service to the customer should be a continual, never-ending

journey. Quality has no finish-line, unlike a 100 meter sprint race. Competitors will seek to

provide better service, and customers will come to expect better service. Continuous

improvement is true for even the best of the best companies. For this organization needs to up

to date with upcoming technology, variation in product design and its employee should be

innovative and staying with continuous learning.

We set an improvement goal for every two month to continual improvement of processes and

products. We always tried to continuous improvement by addition of new technology,

variation in product design & staying employee with learning & providing opportunity is

innovative for better.

5.3 STEP-2: ACTION TAKEN AGAINST ROOT CAUSE After defining what problems are appears frequently and causing 80% defect by Pareto

analysis, then we find out the root cause of these problems. We take action against the root

cause to reduce or eliminate the problems. We take the following initiative to solve the

problems.

53

5.3.1 Countermeasures of Oil/Dirty Spot

Table 5.2: Countermeasures of Spot

Causes Action Taken/Countermeasure

Operator/Man Wash hands before starting work and after lunch, arrange

garments parts/complete garments properly, don’t let the garments

fall down at floor or kept in machine parts.

Machine Clean machine properly twice in a day, Sincerity or alertness for

each section has increased by proper training & increase

awareness on spot, oil leakages are of machine maintained

properly.

Method Establish preventive maintenance; improve oil control system of

machines, practicing 5S in work place. Machine cleaned specially

needle teeth, needle bar, pressure fit bar, head cover, back cover,

inside parts of back cover. All screw, gasket edge, oil protector or

rubber bush tightened, neat and clean. We ensured no garments or

garments part keep in floor, idle section, on machine & running

work kept on center table with well arranged. WIP reduced.

Fabrics Informed the fabric mill to take care about spot on fabric, fabric is

carried on ploy bag; which was not before.

Accessories Make sure accessories don’t contain any dust.

Environment Use exhaust fan on sewing floor, keep floor clean and tidy, fan

and celling cleans regularly.

54

5.3.2 Countermeasures of Skip Stitch

Table 5.3: Countermeasures of Skip Stitch


Machine Repair damage machine parts, Reduce gap between presser foot and the

hole of needle plate

Needle Use needle which design to facilitate loop formation, Adjust the needle

height and testing before bulk sewing, Check needle is properly

mounted on the sewing machines with right eye position.

Operation Seam instruction was followed properly, material handling is improved,

proper threading.

Sewing thread Choice of sewing thread in accordance with the needle size, Select good

quality thread which is free from flaws.

Quality Control Proper inspection system, training to operator, training to quality

inspector.

5.3.3 Countermeasures of Uneven Stitch

Table 5.4: Countermeasures of Uneven Stitch


Machine Control the speed of machine, use right needle, correct feed control

Operator Improve the skill of operator, accurate handling of operator.

Operation We ensured accurate position of pressure feed, Feed dog, upper thread

tension, revolution speed

Accessories Use good quality sewing thread

Quality Control Provide standard quality specification

55

5.3.4 Countermeasures of Raw edge

Table 5.5: Countermeasures of Raw edge


Machine Use proper knife at machine, for stripe fabric use auto trimming

machine.

Operator Improve the skill of operator, concentration during operation, use cutter

in case of raw edge, accurate handling of operator.

Method Prepared proper specification for operation, maintain the optimum

allowance at hemming operation.

Measurement Ensure the measurement from cutting section, the right measurement

folder is used.

Quality Control Proper inspection system, training to operator, training to quality

inspector.

5.3.5 Countermeasures of Pleat

Table 5.6: Countermeasures of Pleat


Machine Use right presser feed to pass the upper and lower part of fabrics

uniformly

Operator Correct the material handling system of operator; observe the

pressure feed to ensure there is no dust or foreign material etc.

Working with appropriate speed, followed cutting mark & ensured

accurate handling of operator to reduce operator.

Method Prepared proper specification for operation, maintain the right

machine speed

Measurement Ensure the measurement from cutting section

56

5.3.6 Countermeasures for Other defects

Uncut Thread:

Provide thread cutter to every operator and make used to; to cut thread properly, start

regularly checking system to check the auto trimming machine is properly functioning or not,

improve quality inspection system.

Open seam:

It means stitch gap or missing during joining. Taken corrective action of two parts matching,

no missing of lower part during joining, checking during working & followed mark during

working.

Open seam:

It means stitch gap or missing during joining. Taken corrective action of two parts matching,

no missing of lower part during joining, checking during working & followed mark during

working.

Puckering/ Sharing/ Loose:

It means fabrics loose, shrinkage, gathering or uneven at joining process. Providing proper

training on operator, control the speed of work, revolution speed, accurate matching of two

parts, following cut mark & avoid pulling tendency of body, middle part for sleeve joining.

Tension Bad:

It means stitch loose or not form in accurate shape. Ensure good quality of thread, smooth

way of thread moving, accurate placement of thread and same flow of thread in each tension

bar.

5.3.7 Countermeasures in Cutting Section 5.3.7.1 Spreading of Fabric for relaxation The fabric received in the roll form should be relaxed for at least 12 hours under standard

conditions before spreading. This is done in order to take out any tension in the fabric

imparted during finishing or winding so as to avoid any distortion while spreading or cutting.

The procedure is below-

57

1. Unroll the fabric from rolls & lay on table/flat area in concentric folds

2. Allow for free relaxation without any obstruction

3. Record the time of unrolling and ready time laying of each roll

5.3.7.2 Cutting of Pilot Run

Objective: Carried out in order to make the necessary amendments in patterns/laying

procedure/cutting procedure /cutting allowance/ marker changes/panel inspection/numbering

area/bundling size.

1. Cutting incharge, production manager & IE shall plan for the pilot & bulk cutting.

2. Pilot run cutting shall be done as per the colour/size/quantity advised by FM/PM/IE.-

the selection of the rolls should cover all the shades and shrinkage groups

3. Make a report of observations, comments, suggestions, amendments, simplification,

risk analysis, corrective action plan based on the above analysis.

4. Obtain feedback from the sewing & buying QA and then act upon the necessary

corrective action.

5.3.7.3 Shade Controlling in cutting section

Controlling Rejects:

Control of rejects or defectives is an important element of ensuring quality of goods. A full

consignment of goods may be rejected at the last moment due to improper handling of

defectives. Some people do not understand the consequence of mingling of rejects with the

quality goods. Careless handling of rejects cannot prevent some of the defective goods

mixing up with the first Quality garments & thus end up with stock lots huge loss to the

company in term of money, reputation, repeat order etc. We implement the below procedures

of reject control-

Kept rejects in some easily identifiable fixed baskets. Wrote it “Rejects” on the

basket.

Keep rejects under a responsible person Quality Manager & Quality controller until

the shipment.

Sorted of reject Garments on the basis of problem.

We made awareness on reject body to the operator, Line chief, Floor in charge,

Quality people by arranging daily meeting, training & sharing information from

58

each section to another section i.e Knitting, Dyeing, Cutting, Printing, Sewing ,

Finishing etc.

5.3.8 Quality Specification Sheet (QSS)

We introduced the quality specification sheet (QSS) for the critical operations so that all

related person can understand the quality requirements. The specification sheet is displayed in

front of operator. When production starts for a new style; operator is trained on the quality

requirements. During checking by inspector, he also knows the requirements from the QSS. It

helps to ensure the quality at the sources.

Figure 5.5: Quality Specification Sheet

5.4 PROCESS FLOW MODIFICATION

5.4.1 Modified Process Flow chart of Cutting section

Figure 5.6: Modified Process Flow Chart of Cutting Section

Fabrics

receive

from store

Fabric

Inspection

Fabric

Laying

Setup

Marker

Paper

Cutting

Send to

Sewing

Section

Final

Inspection

Bundle

Tight

Numberin

g at Panel

Quality

Inspection

59

5.4.2 Modified Process Flow chart of Sewing Section

Figure 5.7: Modified Process Flow Chart of Sewing Section

Input Cut Panel to

sewing line

Sewing

Quality Inspection

Quali

ty

Pass

Send Finishing Section

Not OK

OK

Self-Inspection by

Operator

Random Inspection

by Quality Inspector

60

5.4.3 Modified Process Flow chart of Finishing Section

Figure 5.8: Modified Process Flow Chart of Finishing Section

Carton Poly

Dressing/

Measurement

Hanger

foldingLabel check Price Tagging Getup Quality

Sucker Bundling Ironing Final QualitySizewise

arranging

61

Chapter Six Result and Discussion

6.1 RESULT

After applying TQM tools, especially Pareto Chart, Cause & Effect analysis and taking

actions against causes of poor quality we get a very good result. The team working approach

also helps a lot to solve the problem.

Table 6.1: Results in different Matrix

Sl. No. Matrix Before Implementation

After Implementation

Improvement

1 Defects per Hundred

Unit (DHU) (Sewing

Section)

7.22 5.17 28.33%

2 Reject/Scrap %

(Sewing Section)

0.57 0.42 26.32%

3 Defects per Hundred

Unit (DHU)

(Finishing Section)

19.07 8.92 53.22%

4 Reject/Scrap %

(Finishing Section)

1.21 0.80 34%

5 Efficiency % 44.2 57.5 30%

6 Team Work Not Strong Stronger than

previous

Improved

7 Reward System No Yes Improved

8 TQM Knowledge of

workers

No Yes Improved

62

6.2 DISCUSSION

6.2.1 Sewing Quality Result

Table 6.2: Data of Sewing Section (Before Implementation)

Date Total

Checked Total

Defects Rejection Quantity

DHU Rejection %

2-Jul-11 14027 1106 106 7.88 0.76%

3-Jul-11 16643 1017 119 6.11 0.72%

4-Jul-11 17122 1169 98 6.83 0.57%

5-Jul-11 15885 1236 105 7.78 0.66%

6-Jul-11 17865 1332 127 7.46 0.71%

7-Jul-11 19073 1325 113 6.95 0.59%

9-Jul-11 17622 1306 128 7.41 0.73%

10-Jul-11 15570 1147 96 7.37 0.62%

11-Jul-11 17996 1322 103 7.35 0.57%

12-Jul-11 15577 1294 89 8.31 0.57%

13-Jul-11 17807 1447 104 8.13 0.58%

14-Jul-11 18810 1987 99 10.56 0.53%

16-Jul-11 20377 1790 103 8.78 0.51%

17-Jul-11 17562 1477 92 8.41 0.52%

19-Jul-11 20418 1404 98 6.88 0.48%

20-Jul-11 22129 1330 105 6.01 0.47%

21-Jul-11 23507 1652 132 7.03 0.56%

23-Jul-11 26531 1779 122 6.71 0.46%

24-Jul-11 21909 1549 119 7.07 0.54%

25-Jul-11 22711 1453 115 6.40 0.51%

26-Jul-11 19418 1340 114 6.90 0.59%

27-Jul-11 21185 1240 128 5.85 0.60%

28-Jul-11 21970 1397 126 6.36 0.57%

30-Jul-11 20993 1420 108 6.76 0.51%

31-Jul-11 20424 1371 113 6.71 0.55%

Total 483,131 34,890 2,762 7.22 0.57%

Defects per Hundred Units (Sewing)

Total Check Quantity 483131 Pieces and Total defects quantity 34890 [Table 6.2]

DHU= (Number of Defect/Checked Quantity) X 100

DHU= (34890/483131) X 100

= 7.22

63

Reject/Scrap % (Sewing Section)

Total Check Quantity 483131 Pieces & Reject Quantity 2762 Pieces [Table 6.2]

Reject % = (Number of Reject Quantity / Number of Check Quantity) X 100

Reject % = (2762/483131) X 100

Reject% = 0.57%

Table 6.3: Data of Sewing Section (After Implementation)

Date Total

Checked Total


DHU Rejection %

1-Nov-11 16449 811 56 4.93 0.34%

2-Nov-11 17859 928 64 5.20 0.36%

3-Nov-11 15895 820 49 5.16 0.31%

12-Nov-11 10257 707 41 6.89 0.40%

13-Nov-11 14780 959 62 6.49 0.42%

14-Nov-11 14783 956 64 6.47 0.43%

15-Nov-11 17477 957 77 5.48 0.44%

16-Nov-11 17218 1015 80 5.89 0.46%

17-Nov-11 16059 786 58 4.89 0.36%

19-Nov-11 13562 885 52 6.53 0.38%

20-Nov-11 13289 1019 50 7.67 0.38%

21-Nov-11 15843 1159 49 7.32 0.31%

22-Nov-11 19130 1217 99 6.36 0.52%

23-Nov-11 22930 1035 126 4.51 0.55%

24-Nov-11 25354 1035 135 4.08 0.53%

26-Nov-11 27311 968 131 3.54 0.48%

27-Nov-11 27579 961 127 3.48 0.46%

30-Nov-11 28456 1077 92 3.78 0.32%

Total 334,231 17,295 1,412 5.17 0.42%

All machining process of garment manufacturing in sewing section and to get quality product

sewing can play the vital role. In table 6.2 & table 6.3 we can see the data from sewing

section before and after the project. As our objective of this study was to improve the quality,

from the above two tables we can say our objective has fulfilled. DHU went down from 7.22

to 5.17 and the improvement is 28.33%. And rejection went down from 0.57 % to 0.42% and

the improvement is 26.32%. Which is a good improvement in the short span of time, as TQM

is an ongoing process so the further improvement will come over the time.

64

6.2.2 Finishing Quality Result

Defects per Hundred Units (Finishing)

Total check Quantity 490,397 pieces and total defect quantity 93,511 [Table-6.3]

DHU= (Number of Defect/Checked Quantity) X 100

DHU= (93511/490397) X 100

= 19.07

Reject/Scrap % (Finishing Section)

Total Check quantity 490,397 pieces & Reject quantity 5,957 pieces [Table-6.3]

Reject % = (Number of Reject Quantity / Number of Check Quantity) X 100

Reject % = (5957/490,397) X 100

Reject% = 1.21%

Table 6.4: Data of Finishing Section (Before Implementation)

Date Total

Checked Total


DHU Rejection %

2-Jul-11 15848 2412 209 15.22 1.32%

3-Jul-11 14520 2309 134 15.90 0.92%

4-Jul-11 18760 3463 176 18.46 0.94%

5-Jul-11 24179 3784 244 15.65 1.01%

6-Jul-11 18996 3395 205 17.87 1.08%

7-Jul-11 24121 5779 188 23.96 0.78%

9-Jul-11 19794 4300 607 21.72 3.07%

10-Jul-11 16595 3311 209 19.95 1.26%

11-Jul-11 18133 4195 289 23.13 1.59%

12-Jul-11 14280 3221 229 22.56 1.60%

13-Jul-11 16272 3830 195 23.54 1.20%

14-Jul-11 16943 3008 217 17.75 1.28%

16-Jul-11 17282 2540 183 14.70 1.06%

17-Jul-11 14394 2779 136 19.31 0.94%

19-Jul-11 18454 4065 230 22.03 1.25%

21-Jul-11 20639 2689 178 13.03 0.86%

23-Jul-11 21909 3579 300 16.34 1.37%

24-Jul-11 25470 4797 304 18.83 1.19%

25-Jul-11 25712 4631 275 18.01 1.07%

26-Jul-11 27186 5435 365 19.99 1.34%

27-Jul-11 27450 5555 280 20.24 1.02%

28-Jul-11 28199 5377 266 19.07 0.94%

30-Jul-11 23712 4987 271 21.03 1.14%

31-Jul-11 21549 4070 267 18.89 1.24%

Total 490,397 93,511 5,957 19.07 1.21%

65

Table 6.5: Data of Finishing Section (After Implementation)

Date Total

Checked Total


DHU Rejection %

1-Nov-11 19481 1657 147 8.51 0.75%

2-Nov-11 2020 320 99 15.84 4.90%

3-Nov-11 7840 834 46 10.64 0.59%

12-Nov-11 6260 766 41 12.24 0.65%

13-Nov-11 6260 716 122 11.44 1.95%

14-Nov-11 18693 2121 166 11.35 0.89%

15-Nov-11 17932 1670 137 9.31 0.76%

16-Nov-11 21983 1728 169 7.86 0.77%

17-Nov-11 17910 1609 149 8.98 0.83%

19-Nov-11 20321 1906 162 9.38 0.80%

20-Nov-11 21235 1299 185 6.12 0.87%

21-Nov-11 24757 1944 184 7.85 0.74%

22-Nov-11 26769 2475 167 9.25 0.62%

23-Nov-11 29612 2490 206 8.41 0.70%

24-Nov-11 19466 1783 154 9.16 0.79%

26-Nov-11 23976 2256 187 9.41 0.78%

27-Nov-11 27117 2134 208 7.87 0.77%

30-Nov-11 23481 2185 158 9.31 0.67%

Total 335,113 29,893 2,687 8.92 0.80%

In finishing section there is no machining process, in this section garment is pressed by iron

and there may create few defects during pressing but most of the defects are visualized in this

section which was occurred in sewing section. In table 6.4 & table 6.5 we can see the data

from finishing section before and after the project. DHU went down from 19.07 to 8.92 and

the improvement is 53.22%. And rejection went down from 1.21% to 0.80% and the

improvement is 34%. Which is a good improvement in the short span of time, as TQM is an

ongoing process so the further improvement will come over the time.

6.2.3 Efficiency

Efficiency % = {(Production Pieces X SMV)/(Total Manpower X Working Hour X60)}X 100

In table 6.1, we can see the efficiency has improved from 44.2% to 57.5% and the

improvement is 30%. Under this study we don’t calculate the efficiency. As quality has a

direct impact on efficiency, we take this data from Industrial Engineering department. One of

possible outcome of this study was efficiency improvement by reducing rework.

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6.2.4 Team Work Among three main department-production, quality & merchandising was working almost

independently before the implementation of this project. Especially the production and

quality department was fighting each other and there was blaming culture for mistake in

responsibilities. But after introduced with TQM they work as team, quality problem solving is

the only quality departments job only. Production and quality department solves problem

together.

6.2.5 Reward System Reward system has started to encourage teamwork and innovation. Incentive is an

inducement or a Reward which is given to a worker for efficiency, effectiveness and hard

work. Incentives motivate and encourage a worker to produce more and better Quality

production.

6.2.6 TQM Knowledge of workers Workers introduced with the basic knowledge of quality and quality tools. They understand

the philosophy of quality management (QM). Everyone in the organization is trained in the

use of Quality control and improvement tools.

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Chapter Seven Conclusion and Recommendation

7.1 CONCLUSION

This study has extracted an overall scenario of the cutting, sewing and finishing section of the

selected garments factory in the context of improving quality. By analyzing the product

quality with help of TQM tools it has been found that the quality level is not up the mark and

there is lot of scope of improvement the quality which is the most significant area for overall

improvement. The study found that there are some common and repetitive defects which

happen almost every day during production. These repetitive defects gave an opportunity to

implement cause & effect analysis. To separate the vital few from trivial many we used the

Pareto chart and found oil spot, dirty spot, skip stitch, pleat etc are the vital few defects. It is

found that by implementing tools and the pillars of TQM a garment factory can improve

quality, efficiency, satisfied the employee by providing a good approach in creation of QM

environment, introduction of employees to TQM, encouraging cooperation and teamwork.

Analyzing the product quality and process by using the TQM tools can give a remarkable

improvement by reducing defect and rework. After applying the TQM approach and taking

actions against root causes we achieved up to 53% improvement in DHU and also in some

other matrix we achieved very good result.

7.2 RECOMMENDATION FOR FUTURE STUDY

Based on the current research work, further study can be done on the garments industry in

different dimensions. Some of them are presented below:

TQM tools can also be implemented in knitting, dying, printing section.

Other TQM tools which are not used in this study (Histogram, Scattered Diagram and

Control Chart) can be implemented to improved quality and customer satisfaction.

This research work is done in a knit composite industry, so further study can be done

in woven and other types of apparel industries.

Proper implementation of TQM in pre-production area like in development stage can

helps a lot in the improvement of product quality in final production.

Other Philosophies and Tools of TQM; for example- Kaizen, PDCA cycle, QFD,

Quality Circle can be implement.

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