Local Palate Magazine: "Ramping Up for Spring" by Chef William Dissen

35THELOCALPALATE.COM / APRIL 2013

PH

OT

O B

Y V

AL

ER

Y R

IZZ

O F

OR

GE

TT

Y I

MA

GE

S

BY CHEF WILLIAM DISSEN

Ramping Up For Springto me, nothing says spring like the arrival of the season’s first ramps. Allium tricoccum, aka “the ramp,” is a member of the lily family and is cousin to garlics, leeks, and onions. Often called wild leeks or wild garlic, you will know why they have evolved into a plant of lore once you take your first bite…and so will anyone within the nearest city block.

With their broad green leaves, purple stalk, and scallion-like bulb, the ramp hides on hillsides across the United States but grows prolifically throughout Appalachia. During a recent hike along the Blue Ridge Parkway with my wife, Jenny, and our good friend Alex, our black lab, Cooper, suddenly ran off trail…it was then I noticed the flat and broad green leaf blowing in the wind. As Cooper ran up the steep embankment, my mind started spinning with elation. We had stumbled upon a swath of wild ramps almost a hundred yards in length. What was supposed to be a simple hike in the woods turned out to be an afternoon of harvesting—what an unexpected treat!

KEYINGREDIENT

PH

OT

OS

BY

MA

TT

RO

SE

PICKLED RAMPS

1 tablespoon black peppercorns1 teaspoon mustard seed½ teaspoon caraway seed½ teaspoon fennel seed½ teaspoon cumin seed2 pounds ramps, cleaned, green leaves cut to 1 inch above red stem1 tablespoon kosher salt1 cup white wine vinegar1 cup sugar2 bay leaves

1. Bring a medium pot of heavily salted water to a boil. 2. In a sauté pan, toast peppercorns, mustard seed, caraway seed, fennel seed, and cumin seed.3. Add ramps to the boiling water and cook for 30 seconds—so they are still crisp but tenderized. Using a slotted spoon, transfer ramps to an ice bath to cool. 4. Drain and place ramps into a sterilized quart glass jar with lid.5. In a small pot, bring the remaining ingredients and toasted spices to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the salt and sugar, about 2 minutes.6. Immediately pour mixture over ramps and seal the jar.7. Allow ramps to cool to room temperature and refrigerate until needed.

Yield: 1 quart

GNOCCHI WITH ROASTED OYSTER MUSHROOMS, RAMP PESTO, AND HARISSA*For Gnocchi1 package gnocchi1 cup olive oil, divided1 pint oyster mushrooms, roasted2 tablespoons butter3 tablespoons Parmesan cheese, grated2 tablespoons basil, sliced thinlySalt and freshly ground pepper to tasteRamp pesto (see recipe below)Harissa (see recipe below)Herbs for garnish

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil.2. Working in 2 batches, add gnocchi to salt water and cook until gnocchi rises to surface. Allow gnocchi to float for 20 seconds, remove immediately with a slotted spoon, and transfer to a sheet pan lined with paper towels to cool and drain.3. Coat gnocchi with ½ cup olive oil.4. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add the remaining ½ cup olive oil. When the oil begins to shimmer, place the gnocchi in the pan (making sure not to overcrowd). Cook until golden.5. Turn heat to medium and pour olive oil from the pan. Add roasted oyster mushrooms and cook for another minute.6. Add butter to pan and allow to foam, tossing the gnocchi and mushrooms to fully coat. Add Parmesan and basil, tossing to incorporate. Season with salt and black pepper and remove from heat.

Yield: 4

*Chef Dissen always makes his gnocchi from scratch and smokes it with a smoke gun for this recipe. We have simplified by using store-bought gnocchi and eliminating the smoking step to make the recipe easier for home cooks.

36 THELOCALPALATE.COM / APRIL 2013

While ramps are now a mountain delicacy to chefs across the country, I vividly recall my mother cursing their existence from memories of her childhood in West Virginia. Ramps are known for their pungent

smell. This characteristic of the ramps repelled my mother, but chefs—including me—can’t wait for springtime to smoke, pickle, grill, and sauté these wild foraged plants. Fortunately for me, in Asheville we

have access to some of the region’s finest specimens. —Chef William Dissen of The Market Place in Asheville, North Carolina

For Ramp Pesto12 ramp leaves (save bulbs for pickled ramp recipe)½ cup pecans, toasted½ cup basil leaves½ cup Parmigiano-Reggiano, gratedZest of 1 lemon1 tablespoon lemon juice

1½ cups extra virgin olive oilSalt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1. Combine ramp leaves, pecans, basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano, lemon zest, and lemon juice in a food processor. Pulse to combine.2. While processor is running, add extra virgin olive oil slowly to reach a coarse consistency.3. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Yield: 1 pint

For Harissa8 ounces mixed dried chilies2 quarts boiling water2 tablespoons cumin seed2 tablespoons coriander seed½ cup garlic cloves½ cup cilantro, chopped¼ cup mint, choppedZest and juice of 2 oranges2 tablespoons kosher salt½ cup smoked paprika½ cup extra virgin olive oilAdditional water, as needed

1. Place dried chilies in a large bowl or container and cover with boiling water. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit for an hour to rehydrate.2. In a sauté pan, toast cumin and coriander seeds. Set aside.3. Drain peppers and remove stems and seeds (leaving a few seeds is fine). Place peppers in a food processor and process until chunky.4. Add cumin and coriander to processor with remaining ingredients. Process to a smooth paste. Use additional water, if necessary, to create

a smooth consistency.5. Run paste through a fine-mesh sieve to create a smoother texture.6. For storage, cover surface of Harissa with extra virgin olive oil and refrigerate until needed.

Yield: 1½ quarts

THELOCALPALATE.COM / APRIL 2013