Jenny Ku Fashion History II Professor Whitley May 3, 2012 Alexander McQueen Alexander McQueen’s designs have always been captivating, innovative and over the top often making a statement with his shows. Prior to his death in 2010, Lee Alexander McQueen was hailed as one the best designers with a flair for theatrics and intricate details. McQueen’s 2009 Spring/Summer and Fall/Winter collection features an array of silhouettes, designs, and prints. In this collection, many pieces featured a lot of animal prints and played with texture. The silhouettes featured a mix of hourglass figures and straight lines. The hourglass silhouette is very reminiscent of the hourglass figures for women during the 1860s, where the waist is small and the dress flares out about the hip. This design, as shown on the right also features a mini crini that is similar to that of Vivienne Westwood’s in the 80s, a more modern version of the early 19 th century hoop skirts. Other silhouettes included in the show were straight more modern like, very nostalgic of the feminine defined waistline silhouettes of the 1930s and paired down. Other historical elements featured in the collection include bustles from the 19 th century, shoulder pads from the 1980s and tight slinky dresses. 1 Hourglass Silhouette with mini crini 2 Straighter Silhouette
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JennyKu
FashionHistoryII
ProfessorWhitley
May3,2012
AlexanderMcQueen
AlexanderMcQueen’sdesignshavealwaysbeencaptivating,innovativeandoverthe
topoftenmakingastatementwithhisshows.Priortohisdeathin2010,LeeAlexander
McQueenwashailedasonethebestdesignerswithaflairfortheatricsand
intricatedetails.
McQueen’s2009Spring/SummerandFall/Wintercollection
featuresanarrayofsilhouettes,designs,andprints.Inthiscollection,many
piecesfeaturedalotofanimalprintsandplayedwithtexture.The
silhouettesfeaturedamixofhourglassfiguresandstraightlines.The
hourglasssilhouetteisveryreminiscentofthehourglassfiguresforwomen
duringthe1860s,wherethewaistissmallandthedressflaresoutabout
thehip.Thisdesign,asshownontherightalsofeaturesaminicrinithatis
similartothatofVivienneWestwood’sinthe80s,amoremodernversion
oftheearly19thcenturyhoopskirts.Othersilhouettesincludedintheshow
werestraightmoremodernlike,verynostalgicofthefemininedefined
waistlinesilhouettesofthe1930sandpaireddown.Otherhistorical
elementsfeaturedinthecollectionincludebustlesfromthe19thcentury,
shoulderpadsfromthe1980sandtightslinkydresses.
1HourglassSilhouettewithminicrini
2StraighterSilhouette
3GetaShoes2010Fall/WinterCollection
4ChanelInspiredsuit
5Hobbleskirt
ForMcQueen’sFall/Wintercollection,hedrew
inspirationfromthedesignersofthe1950ssuchasChristian
Dioraswellasthe1920slikeCocoChanel.Inthiscollection,
McQueen’sdesignsfeaturedthehoundstoothpatternandvery
slimfemininesilhouettes.Insomeofhisoutfitsareshoesthat
looksimilartoVivienneWestwood’smockcrocplatforms.These
shoes,calledgetaarepicturedontheleft.Inthiscollection,
McQueenchanneledChanelinsomeofhissuits.Usingtweed
materialinspiredfromChanelsuits,McQueenmadeithisownwithasmallerwaistand
flaringatthehem.NotonlydidMcQueengetinspirationfromlegendarydesignersbuthe
alsoincorporatedtrendsinthe1800s.Inonepiece,McQueencreatedadressthat
incorporatedthehobbleskirt.Thishobbleskirtdress,picturedbelow,showsthetight
wrappingaroundthelegs.
Inthisspring/summercollection,thispiecefeaturedabustleat
theback.Thisfirstbustleappearedinthelate1700sinjacketsand
laterinthe1860sindressesandMcQueenchanneleditbutmade
itmodernwiththeprintandincorporatingthebustletomakeit
looklikewings.Thesilhouetteisverystraightandshouldersare
mildlyrounded.Inaddition,thereisahighcollarthatcoversthe
wholeneckandissimilartocravatsinthe18thcentury.
Thissilverdressalsofromthespring/summercollection,thereare
elementsfromthe19thcenturywiththetinywaistandhourglass
figure.Theillusionofthisdressmakethewaistlineevensmaller.In
away,theillusioncreatesanSbendcurvethatwascommoninthe
early1900s.Thisdressalsoincludespaddedstraightshoulderpads
thatincorporatesthestylesduringthe40sand80s.Thestraight‐
lineshoulderisreminiscentoftheshoulderpadsoftheutilitysuits
andthepaddingissimilartothe80swhenbigshoulderswerein.
McQueenchannelsChristianDior’sbarsuitandthe“newlook”inhis
fall/wintercollection.Thesimilaritiesincluderoundedshoulders,
tinywaistandhourglassfigure.Thenewlookwasfirstintroducedin
the50safterthewarandwasmorefemininethanthatof40s
fashion.Tomakethishis,McQueenincorporatesthehoundstooth
patternandthesuithasmoreofatailoredfitthanDior’sBarsuit.
ThissuitalsoincorporatesmorefabricthanDior’ssuitinthe50s.
5,6,7McQueenDesigns
Bibliography
1. http://www.hellomagazine.com/fashion/designers/paris_spr‐sum2009/images/disenadores/mcqueen/alexander‐mcqueen049a.jpg
2. http://images.nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/2009/spring/main/europe/womenrunway/alexandermcqueen/images/2.jpg
3. Knox,Kristin.AlexanderMcQueen:geniusofageneration.London:A&CBlack,2010.Print.
4. http://media.fashionmagazine.com/images/sept09tweed1_250.jpg
5. Knox,Kristin.AlexanderMcQueen:geniusofageneration.London:A&CBlack,2010.Print.
6. Knox,Kristin.AlexanderMcQueen:geniusofageneration.London:A&CBlack,2010.Print.
7. Knox,Kristin.AlexanderMcQueen:geniusofageneration.London:A&CBlack,2010.Print.
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