Industrial attachment of abanti colour tex ltd

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INDUSTRIAL TRAININGCourse Code: Tex -4036

INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENTABANTI COLOUR TEX LTD

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REPORT ON INDUSTRIAL TRAINING

IN

ABANTI COLOUR TEX LTD

TRAINING PROGRAM FOR THE DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE ENGINEERING.

SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY, DHAKA

FROM 06.10.2012 TO 06.12.2012

COPY FOR SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY

SUBMITTED BY:

Mohammad Shariful Islam Mohammad Faruk Hossan

Southeast University. Southeast University.

Banani, Dhaka Banani,Dhaka.

Date Of Submission: 14th January 2013.

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Acknowledgement

At first i would like to express my heart-felt thanks to almighty ALLAH for his kind blessing forcompletion of the industrial training successfully. I woulkd like to thank the people, who havemade a significant contribution to make this report. Their guide lines,suggestions & inspirationhelped us a lot. I would like to express my deepest applicatioin, sincerest gratuity to myrespected teacher Professor Syed Fakhrul Hassan, Chairman, Depertment of TextileEngineering, Southeast University.

We would also like to express my sincere gratuity to Nizam Uddin Mandol (GeneralManager), Abanti Colour Tex LTD, Special thanks to all managers of every depertment, myheart full thanks to all of different production officer, In-charges, Executives, Supervisors,Asst.supervisors,operators & all other employees of Abanti colour Tex LTD.

At last but not the least, we would like to acknowledge our parents for their blessing, support &love and all my friends for their help & support to complete the report.

I wish the progress of Abanti Colour Tex LTD.

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Executive Summary

Abanti Colour Tex LTD is a young & dynamic composite Knit Garment Industry. Thoughincorporated in the year 1994 as a private limited company it came into existence in lateDecember 1995. The mill being established at Shashongaon,Enayetnagar,Fatullah,Narayanganj,aspires to create a niche within a short period of time in the highly competitive global market ofknit garments.Promoted by a team of young and dynamic visionaries, Abanti Colour Tex LTD isa 100% export oriented composite knit garment industry.It possesses all the latest machineriesfrom the European countries with few from the United States of America, Japan, & Taiwan. Theentire plant has been installed & erected by foreign and local engineers jointly under the sameroof. The total plant is located in an eighteen storied building in an area of more than 6,50,000square feet (Approx). The factory is well equipped with high performance machinery andexperienced technicians & a group of Smart executives are engaged here to ensure theCompliance management for quality and customer happiness. We can produce internationalstandard fabric and garments of any quality and quantity. Abanti Colour Tex LTD always keepspace with latest technology of Textiles industry. The products of the unit have been classified insuch a manner which shall meet the increased demand of the Europeans, USA etc. marketfulfilling all the criteria required by the buyer

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Introduction

By means of practical knowledge it is possible to apply the theoretical knowedge in the practicalfield. For any technical education practical experience is almost equally important in associationwith the theoretical knowledge.

The industrial attachment is the process which builds understanding skill and attitude of thepoerformer, which improves his/her knowledge in boosting productivity and services. Academiceducation provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical attachment, despiteall these industrial attachment help us to be familiar with the technical support of modernmachinery, skillness about various operation stages.

It also provides us sufficiant practical knowledge about production management, produstivityevaluation, work study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenanceof machinery, production planning and control, production cost analysis and their operationtechniques etc. The above mentioned cannot be achieved successfully by means of theoreticalknowledge only. This is why it should be accomplished with practical knowledge in which it isbased on industrial atmosphere & improve courage & inpiration to take self-responsibility.

At Abanti Colour Tex LTD, cutting-edge technologies ,erge seamlessly with human ingenuityand deep seat recommmitment to ensure excellence in every stage and area of their activities.The ACTL has the capability to offer a complete product range for the export textile markets.The goal of ACTL is become the preferred partner for sourcing high quality fabrics and clothingfrom Bangladesh with highly advanced technology and an emphasis on developing local humanresources.

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TABLE OF CONTENT

Serial No Chapter Topic Name Page No

1 Acknowledgement 3

2 Executive Summary 4

3 Introduction 5

4 1 Company Profile 8-15

5 2 Knitting Section 16-27

6 3 Dyeing Section 28-42

7 4 Lab Dip Section 43-46

8 5 Finishing Section 47-55

9 6 Quality Assurance 55-63

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section

Serial No Chapter Topic Name Page No

10 7 Garments Section

GarmentsManufacturing.

Sample Section. Cutting Section. Marker Making. Fabric

Spreading. List Of Garments

machineries. Sewing

Sequence ofbasic T-shirt.

Some Sewingmachines.

Stich.and itsdifferentClasses.

Seam and itsdifferent types

Printing Section. Embroidery

Section. Finishing.

64-103

11 8 Merchandising Section. 104-113

12 9 Maintenance Section. 114-123

13 10 Utilities And powerDevelopment

124-125

14 11 Compliance 126-128

15 12 Conclusion 129-130

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Chapter: 1

Company profile

(Abanti Colour TEX LTD)

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Mission:

Abanti Colour Tex LTD committed to venture out into the changing and challengingglobal mnarket as a leading enterprise in the world apparel industry by satisfying its valuedcustomer.

Vision:

To operate as one of the best sources of apparel in the global market. To satisfy the valued customers, meeting their expectation by providing quality

products and services on time and offering them the best value in terms of quality,price, environment and other ethical practices.

To meet compliance standards to assure an ideal work environment and obtainoptimum level of productivity.

To maintain the technology command in the factory. To promote development ensuring unprejudiced and equal opportunities for all.

101010

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Factory Name:

ABANTI COLOUR TEX LIMITED.

( A 100% Export oriented composite knit factory)

Factory Location:

Plot No-S,A-646, Shashongaon,Enayetnagar,Fatullah,Narayanganj, Bangladesh.

Head Office Address:

House No- 365/4, Road No- 06 (west),Baridhara DOHS,Dhaka-1206,Bangladesh

Phone- 88-02-8415126-7.

Fax- 88-02-8412560.

Factory Telephone & Fax No:

Phone- +88027672526

Fax No- 88027671057

Management:

Chairman- Hosne Ara Nila

Managing Director- A,H. Aslam Sunny

General Manager- Nizam Uddin Mandal

Company Establishment:

In 1994

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Yearly Turnover:

65 Million US $

Total no of workers:

7000 workers

Lead time:

60-90 Days

Fabric Range:

100% Cotton, Polyamide, Viscose etc.

Main Product:

T-shirt, Polo shirt, Tank Tops, Sweat shirt, Night wears, Jogging Suits, Trousersetc.

Working Period:

2 (Tw0) Shift Per Day

Production Capacity:

Knitting : 20 Tons/Day

Dyeing : 25Tons/Day

Garments : 1,20,000 Pcs/Day

Printing : 65,000 Pcs/ Day

Embroidery : 187 Head ( Haina & Tazima)

.

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Major Customers:

Tom Tailor, H&M, Fabiani, Aldi, Kappa, Red Wood, Manguun, Gemu, Kiabi,Galeria Kaufhof, C.Comberti, Primark, ISM Real, Adler, Simpex, Schafer,Freestyle, Mustang, Belgium post, Mark-Adam, Spring Field, Metro CMC,Pepejeans, etc.

Major Certificates:

ISO 9001-2008 (QMS).

Oeko-Tex Standard maintaining company.

Organic Exchange (OE).etc.

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Different Dipertment:

Different sections of Abanti Colour Tex LTD.

A. Knit section

Knitting Inspection

B. Dyeing section

Batch section Dye house Dyeing lab Quality control Finishing

C. Garments section

Merchandising Sample Cutting section Sewing section Finishing section

D. Printing UnitE. EmbroideryUnitF. AccessoriesUnitG. Maintenance section

Electrical Mechanical

H. Utility: Electricity Gas Boiler

I. Store section

J. Administration section

K. Maintenance section

L. Marketing section

M. Production planning &control

N. Human Resource & Development

section

O. Compliance

Differentsections

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Supporting Department

Personnel AdministrationProcurementMarketingHRDFinance &AccountingMIS (Management Information System)Work StudyComplience& Safety

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CHAPTER 2

KNITTING

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CHAPTER 2

KNITTING

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CHAPTER 2

KNITTING

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Knitting:Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth. Knitting consists of

consecutive loops called stitches. As each row progresses a new loop is pulled through anexisting loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed throughthem. Knitting is the most common method of inter-looping and is second only to weaving as amethod of manufacturing textile products.

Objectives of knitting:To produce fabric.Produce fabric for making garments smoothly.To minimize fabric cost.For regular fabric supply.

Classification of knitting machinery:Basically there are two types of knitting which are weft knitting, versus

warp knitting and another type is flat knitting versus circular knitting. The machines used for themaniufacturing of knit fabric can be divided into machines with individually driven needles andneedle bar machines.

Basic types of fabric:1. Warp knitting.2. Weft knitting.

Wales’s lines are fixed by the machine gauge. This can not be changed, coarses lines can bealtered by adjusting in the machine. This is called Texture.

Basic knitting element:1. Needle.

2. Sinker.

3. Cam.

Needle:

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Function of needles:Needle is used to clear the old loop from the hook & to receive the newloop above it on the needle steam.Types of needle:In general there are three types of needles.

a. Bearded needle.b. Latch needle.c. Compound needle.

Figure : Latch Needle

CAM:

Cams are the devices which convert the rotary m/c drive into a suitable reciprocating action for

the needles or other elements.

Types of cam: Two type of cam

1. Engineering cam Knit cam

2. Knitting cam Miss cam

Tuck cam

Function of CAM

The functions of cam are as follows: Produce motion to needles. Loop formation. Holding down. Knocking over

LatchSteam

Hook

Rivet

Butt

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Sinker:This is secondary primary knitting element. It is a thin metal plate with an individual andcollective action approximate at right angles from the hook side between adjoining needles.

Function of sinker:It may one or more of the following functions dependent upon the machines knitting action andconsequent sinker shape and movement.

Others Equipments Used In Knitting Section:

GSM cutter Electronic balance Inspection m/c

Terms and definition of knitting:

Course – A horizontal row of loops formed by the needles during one knitting cycle.

Wales– A vertical column of loops formed by a single needle.

Loop- It is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously basic unit.Knitted loops are arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp and weft ofwoven structures termed “Wales” and “courses” respectively

Stitch- The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabric is stitch. It consists of a yarnloop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loop.

Stitch length - Stitch length is a length of yarn which includes the needles of the needle loop &half of the sinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger stitch length, the more extensible& lighter the fabric & the poorer the cover, capacity & bursting strength.

Steps should be taken to change stitch length.

- Check the S.L of the m/c prevailing.- Change the diameter of V. DLQ pulley.- Set of the position of carriage.- Set the speed of take- up roller- Maintain the optimum yarn tension.

Yarn count:

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Yarn count is the numerical system of expressing length per unit weight or weight per unit

length. Count express fineness or coarseness of yarn.

Yarn count can be calculated in two systems:

Direct system:

In direct system, yarn count is directly related to the yarn fineness. So, lower the count finner the

yarn and higher the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for Polyester and Lycra and

other synthetic fibers.

W lDirectCountw L

Where, W=weight of the sample

L=length of the sample

w=unit weight of the system

l=unit length of the system

Indirect system:

In indirect system, yarn count is inversely related to the yarn fineness. So, higher the count finner

the yarn and lower the count and coarser the yarn. This system is used for cotton, worsted &

woolen.

w LIndirect CountW l

Where, W=weight of the sample

L=length of the sample

w=unit weight of the system

l=unit length of the system

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ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING DEPARTMENT:

SupervisorStore Incharge

Asst.GeneralManager

Production Manager

OperatorsOperators

Fitter man Fitter man

KnittingMaster

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Sequence of operations in knitting section:

Sample fabric

Design analysis

Sample fabric production

Setting the machine for the specificdesign

If Yes

If NoBuyer approval

Bulk Production

QC

Send to Batching section

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Machine profile for knitting section:

S/LNo

M/CDia

M/CGauge

Type Origin Brand No offeeder

No ofneedle

M/CQTY

Attachment

1 21“

24 E SINGLEJERSEY

TAIWAN JIUNNLONG

63 1584 2

100%LYCRA

2 22“ 66 1656 23 23“ 69 1740 24 24“ 72 1812 25 25“ 75 1860 26 26“ 78 1968 17 27“ 81 2040 28 28“ 84 2112 19 29“ 87 2184 1

10 30“ 90 2256 211 31“ 93 2328 212 32“ 96 2400 213 34“ 102 2544 214 36“ 108 2712 415 38“ 112 2880 415 40“ 120 3000 417 42“ 126 3168 118 36“6FD

24 E

MULTIFEEDERSINGLEJERSEY

TAIWAN JIUNNLONG

216 2712 1 100%LYCRA19 38“6FD 228 2880 1

20 40“6FD 240 3000 121 42“6FD 252 3168 2

22 30‘24 E

AUTOSTRIPE

6COLOURS

JAPAN JIUNNLONG

72/48 2268 2 100%LYCRA23 32“ 72/48 2448 1

24 34“ 84/54 2592 1

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S/LNo

M/CDia

M/CGauge


No ofneedle

M/CQTY

Attachment

1 24“

18/24 RIB/INTERLOCK

TAIWAN JIUNNLONG

48 1344 2

100%LYCRA

2 26“ 52 1476 23 28“ 56 1585 24 30“ 60 3408 15 32“ 64 3600 16 34“ 68 3846 17 36“ 72 2040 28 38“ 76 4272 29 40“ 80 4512 2

10 42“ 84 2484 2

11 44“ 88 2484 212 46“ 92 2592 1

S/L

No

M/CDia

M/CGauge


No ofneedle

M/CQTY

Attachment

1 52“ 14GG FLAT KNIT TAIWAN JY-LEH 6 1344 15 COMPUTERISED

Inspection Machine

Brand : Uzu

Country of Origin : Thailand

QTY : 2 Sets

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Types of yarn used and their count:

Type of yarn Count

Cotton 20S ,24S, 26S, 28S, 30S, 32S, 34S, 36S ,40S, 45S

Polyester 70D,100D,150D

Spandex yarn 20D,40D,70D

Grey Mélange (C-90% V-10%) 24S, 26S

Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S, 26S, 28S

Cotton Mélange (100%) 24S, 26S, 28S

PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

CVC(60% Polyester & 40% Cotton) 24S, 26S, 28S, 30S

Cost of Raw Materials:

Yarn Count Combed Yarn Carded Yarn

40/1 3.65 $/Kg 2.65-2.7 $/Kg

36/1 3.00 $/Kg 2.5-2.6 $/Kg

32/1 2.90 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg

30/1 2.70 $/Kg 2.30 $/Kg

28/1 2.65 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg

26/1 2.60 $/Kg 2.25 $/Kg

24/1 2.55 $/Kg 2.20 $/Kg

20/1 2.50 $/Kg 2.15- 2.2 $/Kg

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Quality Standard:

Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. follows the four point grading system to inspect the body & ribfabric, by this four point system, the faults arc found by the inspection and points are givenagainst the faults. Following table shows the four point grading system followed by inspection atAbanti Colour Tex Ltd.

Four Point Grading System

Size Of Defects Penalty

3 inches or less 1 point

Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 point

Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 point

Over 9 inch 4 point

Any Hole 4 Point

Typical knitting calculations:

The calculations which are frequently used in the knitting section are discussed below:

Gauge (G): Number of needles per inch.

Total needles: Machine diameter× Gauge×3.1416

Feeders of Single Jersey: Machine diameter×3

Feeders of Double Jersey: Machine diameter×2

Relation between yarn count and fabric Gsm

For single jersey fabric:

4320Yarn CountFabric Gsm

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For Double jersey fabric:

6000Yarn CountFabric Gsm

Relation between fabrics finished Gsm, stitch length, fabric gsm, yarn count:

For Single Jersey fabric:

590 KsStitch LengthYarn Count Finished Gsm

Where,

For s/j, Ks=19.6

For 1x1 rib, Ks=26

For Interlock, Ks=38

Fabric Thickness:

Fabric thickness=4D

Here, D= yarn dia (in relaxed state)

Tightness Factor:

TexTightness FactorStitch Length , here stitch length is in mm

Production per shift:

. 60 8Pr1000 840 ( ) 36 2.2028D G S L F RPM efficiencyoduction per shift Kg

yarn count Ne

Where,

D= Machine dia G= Machine gauge S.L.=Stitch length F= No. of feeder

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CHAPTER- 3

DYEING SECTION

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CHAPTER- 3

DYEING SECTION

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CHAPTER- 3

DYEING SECTION

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ORGANOGRAM OF DYEING AND FINISHING:

DGM

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Senior Manager (Dyeing) Manager (Finishing)

Manager (Dyeing) Asst. manager

Manager (Dyeing) In Charge

Production Officer Supervisor

Dyeing Master Operator

Floor in charge Helper

Supervisor

Operator

Helper

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Dyeing:

Dyeing operations are used at various stages of production to add colour and intricacy totextiles and increase product valkue. It chemically changes a substance so that the reflecting lightappears. Most dyeing is performed either by the finishing division of vertically integrated textilecompanies or by specially dye houses. Specially dye houses operate either on commission basisor purchase greige goods and finish them before selling them to apparel and other productmanufacturers. Textiles are dyed using a wide range of dyestuffs, techniques and equipment.Dyes used by the textile industry are largely synthetic, typically derived from coal tar andpetrolium-based intermediates. Dyes are sold as powders, granules, pastes and liquid dispersionswith concentrations of active ingredients ranging typically from 20 to 80 percent.

Preparation Techniques:Various finishing techniques are used after fabrics are made using weaving or knitting

techniques such as Singeing, Desizing, Scouring, Bleaching, Mercerizing etc.

Following are major fabric preparationn tecniques: Singeing Desizing Scouring Bleaching Mercerizing

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Table : Classes of dyes on the basis of suitability of dyeing different fibers:

Sl.No

Name ofdyes

Suitable for Fibers

01 Acid dyes Wool, silk and Nylon

02 Basic dyes Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon, Silk, Wool and Jute

03 Direct dyes Cotton, Viscose Rayon, Linen, Nylon, Wool and Silk

04 Azoic dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

05 Vat dyes Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

06 Sulpherdyers

Cotton, Viscose and Linen.

07 Reactivedyes

Cotton, Viscose, Linen, Wool, Silk and Nylon.

08 Dispersedyes

Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic, Acetate Rayon and TriacetateRayon.

Dyeing machine:

The machine which is used to dyeing or coloring of materials like yarn, fabric,garments or any other materials is called dyeing machine.

Main Component’s of a dyeing m/c:

1. Mixing tank: There is a tank in this machine. Every chemical are used to put here. Thereare some components here are as follows:a. Metallic mixing part: It is used to mix any solutionb. Air flow mixing part: It is also to mix any solution.c. Steamer: It is used to delivery steam in mixing tank.d. Steam controller: It can control the amount of steame. Filter: It is used to filter the solution which is transferred in to the main tank.

2. Main tank: The chemical from the tank is transferred here. The pretreatment and dyeingare completed here.

3. Monitor: It is situated at the right side of the machine. The commands are shown in themonitor & the operators can work from these commands. There are also some options forworking properly & to obey these commands.

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4. Unloading reel: There is an unloading reel for unloading the dyed fabric.5. Three detectors: There are 3 detectors on the above of the nozzle are as follows:

a. Temperature detector: It is at the left side between these 3 detectors which can detectthe temperature of the main tank.

b. Fabric turning pressure detector: It is at the middle of these 3 detectors. It can detectthe pressure at which the fabric turning.

c. Atmospheric pressure detector: It can detect the atmospheric pressure of the maintank.

d. Panel board: There is a panel board at the right side of the machine by whichprogrammed can be set up.

Checklist before operation:

Checking the programmersMachine set-up.Fabric weight.Fabric quality.Collar design (Tipping/ solid).Rib designs (Normal/Lycra).Chemical availability.Power availability.Steam availability.Water availability.Compressed air.Manpower availability.Fabric stitch is done properly.

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Typical Process Flow Chart for Knit Dyeing :

Fill Water↓

Fabric loading & m/c run↓

Caustic soda dozing for 5min at 40ºC (PH 10.5-11)↓

H2O2 dozing for 5 min at 60ºC↓

Sequestering agent, anti-creasing agent, detergent dosing at 80ºC↓

Temp. Rise at 98ºC for 60 min↓Bath Drop

↓Wash

↓Fill water

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MACHINE PROFILE FOR DYEING SECTION.

SAMPLE

Sl No Brand Brand Capacity/Day Total No’s

1 Winch FONGS PMM 25 Kg 01

2 Winch FONGS 50 Kg 01

3 Winch DILMINLER 50 Kg 01

4 Winch AK 20 Kg 02

5 Winch AK 100 Kg 01

PRODUCTION

Sl No Brand Brand Capacity/Day Total No’s





5 Winch DELIMINLER 450 Kg 01






11 Winch SCAVOS(Greece)

1500 Kg 02

12 Winch FONGS 1000 Kg 02

13 Winch GONGS 750 Kg 01

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Chemical usedBasic chemicals:

1. Hydrogen peroxide2. Acetic acid3. Soda ash4. Caustic soda5. Common salt6. Glubar salt7. Bleaching acid8. Hydrose

Detergent:1. PCLF2. MA Scour AP3. FEROLZUM

Anticreasing agent:1. MARLAKT CONC2. ALBAFLUIDE C3. MA Lube C4. Best anticreasing

Leveling agent:1. MARLADF CONC2. Seragal PLP (LPF)3. PRIMALEV R CONC4. Best leveller 723

Sequestering:1. Hanko QUST2. MARLA DM CONC3. MA Stab XL4. Best SCQ 710

Peroxide killer:1. P.Killer (PK)

Stabilizer:1. MARLA PS CONC2. Ultrafresh NMV-23. Argaprep MSS4. Primastab FF Conc

Anti foam:1. Antifoam 39A

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Fixing Agent:1. Albafix SR2. Jontex Fix 5003. Serafast CNC4. Asufix EPF

Enzyme agent:1. Boizep MC new2. UNIZYME 600L

Softener agent:1. E-31 (white)2. Softener A-1000 (COLOR)3. Matsoft NISB4. Softener S-3005. Chemesoft CWS

Production Parameters

Process Temp(▫C) pH Time min M : Lratio

Scouring -

Bleaching

98 10-11 30 1:8

Enzyme Wash 55 4.5-5 30 1:8

Reactive Dyeing

(Light Shade)

60 10-11 60 1:8

Reactive Dyeing

(Dark Shade)

60 11-12 60 1:8

White Shade 98 10.5-11.5 30 1:8

Turquish color dyeing 80-90 11-12 60 1:8

Polyester dyeing 130 4-4.5 45 1:8

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Dyeing Parameter:

1. pH:

Bleaching bath pH : 10.5 – 11 Neutralization or after bleaching pH : 5.5 – 6.5 Bio polishing bath pH : 4.5 Initial dye bath pH: 5.5-6.5 After alkali addition pH : 10.5 – 11 After dyeing pH : 5.0 – 6.0 Fixation bath pH : 4.5 – 5.5 Softener bath pH : 4.0 – 5.0 ( For color )

2. Temperature:

For cotton Pretreatment : 98 0C For Cotton Biopolishing : 550C Cotton Dyeing: During Turquise :800C During Isothermal :600C Red special : 60 0C White dyeing : 80 0C For Polyester Dyeing :1300C For Cotton soaping : 980C Temperature during softening & fixing : 400C For cotton hot wash : (70-90)0C

For cotton acid wash : (50-60)0C

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Amount Of Salt , Alkali & Fixation time On The Basis OfShade%:

Shade % Salt(g/l) Alkali(g/l) Fixing time(min)

0-0.1 30 10 20

0.1-0.5 30 15 30

0.5-01 40 20 40

1-1.5 50 20 50

1.51-2 60 20 60

2-2.5 70 20 60

2.5-5 80 20 60

Above 6 100 25 70

Black shade 100 10+0.5g/l NaOH 70

Dyeing Process with Recipe

Light Color Process 100% Cotton

A. Machine Wash:

Hydrose (2g/L) +Caustic (2g/L) +Foaming Agent (0.5g/L)30 min at 90oc

Machine Washed

A. Acid (0.7g/L)

20min at 70oc

M/C Neutralized

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B. Scouring & Bleaching:Detergent (1 g/L)Sequestering Agent (.5 g/L)Stabilizer (.8 g/L)Caustic (3 g/L)H2O2 (3 g/L)

60min at 98’c

C. Neutralizations (Scouring & Bleaching):H2O2 Killer (.8 g/L)

A.Acid (1 g/L)

20min at 80’c

D. Enzyme Wash:A.Acid (1 g/L)Enzyme (1%)

55min at 50’c, PH =4.5E. Dyeing:

Ant creasing Agent (.5 g/L)Leveling Agent (1 g/L)A.Acid (.2 g/L)Dyes (According to shade %)G.Salt (According to shade %)Soda Ash (According to shade %)

60min at 60’cF. Neutralization: (Dyeing)

A.Acid (1 g/L)

10min at 40-50’c

G. Soaping:Soaping Agent (.5 g/L)

20min at 70-80’c

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H. Fixing & Softening:Fixing Agent (.5 g/l)

15min at 40’cA.Acid (.5 g/L)Softener (1.5 g/L)

Dyeing faults Causes and Remedies:

Uneven dyeing:

Causes:

Uneven Pretreatment Improper addition of color Improper addition of chemical Using dyes of high fixation properties Less control of dyeing machine Less circulation time

Remedies:

By ensuring even pretreatment By proper addition of color and chemicals Correct circulation time By controlling the dyeing machine properly

Batch to batch Shade variation

Causes:

Using improper dyes and chemicals Incorrect pretreatment procedure Batch to batch weight variation of fabric Batch to batch chemicals and dyes variation (lot variation) Improper dosing of dyes and chemicals

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Remedies:

By using standard dyes and chemicals By correcting the pretreatment procedure By maintaining batch to batch weight variation By avoiding lot mixing of dyes and chemicals By correcting the dosing time of dyes and chemicals By following different dyeing parameter.

Dark colored spots:

Causes:

Dyestuff precipitation during dyeing Incompatibility of dyestuff used for producing combined shade Too high dyestuff concentration in the dye bath Precipitation of unabsorbed dyestuff during after treatment

Remedies:

By ensuring proper dyeing condition By selecting proper dyestuff By checking the solubility limit of the dyestuff before dyeing By ensuring proper after treatment

Patchy dyeing:

Causes:

Due to hardness of water Due to faulty color addition Due to faulty injection of alkali Due to improper salt addition Due to improper PH of solution

Remedies:

By using proper sequestering agent By correcting the color addition By correcting the salt addition By proper injection of alkali By maintaining the PH level of the solution

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Crease mark:

Causes:

Poor opening of the fabric rope Due to high speed of machine running Unequal pump pressure and reel speed

Remedies:

By maintaining proper pump pressure and reel speed. By controlling the speed of the machine. Correct opening of the fabric rope.

Roll to roll variation:

Causes:

Poor migration property of dye. Hardness of water. Improper dyes solubility. Faulty machine speed.

Remedies:

Use standard dyes and chemicals Proper machine speed. Using soft waste.

Calculation realted to dyeing floor:

39.37 1000.

Machine CapacityWinch speedGSM fabric width no of Nozzle Cycle Timt

39.37 10000.

Machine CapacityCycle TimeFabric GSM Fabric width No of Nozzle Winch speed

Re ( ) %quired Dye kg Shade Fabric weight in Kg

/Re1000

g l required Total liquorquired Chemicals

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Chapter- 4

Lab Dip Section

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Process flow chart of lab dip dyeing:

Recipe correction

Two or more option of lab dips send to the buyer for approval

Approved Not approved

Go for production Making re lap dip

Approved

Spectrophotometer Visually calculating

Exact match with swatch

Recipeformulation

Checking the qualityparameter

Swatch frombuyer

Previous lap dipRecordSpectrophotometer

Matching visually

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Definition:

Lab Dip development means the sample which is dyed according to the buyer’srequirements. Depending on lab dip development sample dyeing and bulk production dyesplanning done.

The main objectives in lab dip are as follows:

To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or spectroflash. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing. Finally approved Lab Dip. (Grade: A B C)

Lab UnitModel Brand Country of Origin

Oven Dryer and Incubator S.D.L Atlas England

Balance S.D.L Atlas England

Sun test Cpst Atlas England

Rubbing / Crocking Atlas England

Yarn Twist Tester S.D.L Atlas England

Yarn Evenness Tester S.D.L Atlas England

Wrap Reel S.D.L Atlas England

Ph Meter Deep Vision

Pilling Meter Mag Solving

Rota Wash S.D.L Atlas England

Wascotos Elutrolux England

Lab Sample Dyeing Machine Rapid Taiwan

Electronic Balance SHINKO KOREA

Spectro Photometer Data Color USA

U.Box Verivide UK

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Wash Machine Milling Stone Turkey

Siemens Washing Machine Turkey

Dry Siemens Turkey

Dry Electrolux S.D.L Atlas England

PANTONE BOOK (TCX, TPX):

This book is used for shade matching. Sometime buyer gave the pantone no. in their order.Pantone no. indicates the shade of the garments. It’s a universal shade matching book.

Full name : Pantone Textile Color SelectorColor numbering system : 6 digit + suffixFirst two digits : 11 to 19 (range of lightness)Middle two digits : 01 to 64 (range of hue)Last two digits : 01 to 65 (range of chroma)

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Chapter- 5

Finishing Section

48

Finishing:

Textile finishing is a term commonly applied to different process that the textile material undergo after pretreatment, dyeing or printing for final embellishment to enhance there attractivenessand sale appeal as well as for comfort and usefulness.

Objects of finishing:

The aim of finishing is to render textile goods fit for their purpose or end use. Besides that,finishing can be done for achieving the following purposes-

a) To improve fabric attractiveness.

-By modification of fabric appearance (Calendaring, Optical brightening)

-By altering fabric handle (Softening, Stiffening)

-Control of fabric dimension (Sanforising, Compacting)

b) To improve service ability.

-Protection of fabric (Flame proofing, Water proofing)

-Improved performance (Water repellency, Raising)

-Easy care properties (Resin finish, Crease recovery)

After dyeing, knit fabric is required to finish. During dyeing all knit fabric are dyed in tubular

form. According to buyer's requirement knit fabric are finished in Open form or tubular form.

The tubular and open finishing sequences of Abanti Colour Tex Ltd are given bellow:

Types of finishing:1) Chemical finishing:

2) Mechanical finishing:

Finishing effects: Easy - care Crease recovery.

Dimensional stability.

Good abrasion resistance.

Improved tear strength.

Good sew ability

Soft or stiff handle.

Shine or luster

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Specification of Finishing Machines used in ACTL:BALLOONING SQUEEZING M/C

Manufacturer name DONG NAM INDUSTRIAL CO. LTDCountry of origin KOREASerial/Model no. DNBS-1400

M/C type BALLOON SQUZMax. Pressure 6 kg

Applied Pressure 3 kgUsed utilities Water, Electricity, Compressed air

DRYERBrand name ALKAN

Country of origin TURKEYNo. of motors 6Temperature 320 0CApplied for Tube

Used utilities Steam, Electricity

TUBE COMPACTORBrand name FAB-CON

Country of origin USASerial no. 91195

Washing machine

Company LG

Model WD 80264NP

Max spin 800 rpm

Max temp 930C

Observation Of Different Finishing M/C:Ballooning Squeezing m/c/De-Watering M/C:

This is the process to remove the water from the fabric partially by squeezing.

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The basic function of the squeezing m/c: To remove the water from the fabric. To control the width of the fabric. To control the length of the fabric. To control the Spirality of the fabric. To control the over feeding system Apply chemicals specially to make the fabric soft. To remove the crease mark of the fabric.

Controlling points:

Dia setting must be accurate. Padder pressure depends on fabric construction. Excess padder pressure may

cause fabric damage. Speed must be optimum. Higher the fabric speed leads less removal of water.

Main parts: De-twisting device (to deliver the fabric roll in untwisted form) Expender (to control width) Paddler (to remove water) Folding device Conveyer Belt Compressed air(to form the tube fabric into balloon to ensure the delivered fabric to

be crease free)

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Tensionless Dryer m/c:

Drying is defined as a process where the liquid portion of the solution is evaporated from thefabric.

The basic function of the dryer: To dry the fabric in tube form. To control the over feed system (Shrinkage control) To control the GSM of the fabric.

Main parts of the machine: Overfeed roller Conveyor belt Steam chamber(6) Exhaust fan Motor(6) plaiter

Checking parameters: Overfeed ( %) : It depends on fabric structure & GSM Temperature: It depends on color & GSM.( normally for single jersey -1600C, for high

GSM, like-fleece, it may be 2500C ) Speed: It depends on fabric GSM. For higher GSM, lower the speed.

GSM Over feedUp to 120 14-15%120-140 12%140-200 7-8%200-250 5-6%

Utility: Electricity, steamHeating system: Steam dryer.

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51









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Tube compactor:Important parts: Shaft & pulley(To control Dia) Shoe Blade

Blade No Req. GSM

110 Up to 125

125 Up to 140

140 Up to 180

170 Up to 240

200 Over 240

Overfeed Roller Steam bar Conveyor belt Take off rollerA pair of pulley: It controls the fabric width according to the buyer’s requirements.

Steam zone: It is given steam on the fabric surface for softness which helps in compactingzone to compact the fabric.

Fig: Steam spray on fabric surface

Compacting zone: It consists of edge roller, retard roller, steel plates and compacting shoe.Fabric’s shrinkage, finished GSM and Dia permanent by compacting shoe & edge roller at 950c.Steel plate remove the crease mark on the fabric surface and retard roller smooth the upperportion of the fabric surface at 950c.Shaper: It looks like a ladder which straightens the fabric and passing through the pulley.

The basic function of the tube compactor: To control the GSM (Increase & decrease) To control the Dia of the fabric To control shrinkage (Increase & decrease)

Fabr

ic

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Controlling points of the tube compactor: Temperature- it depends on construction & composition and color of the fabric. Speed- it depends on temperature and fabric construction. Blanket pressure- fabric smoothness depends on blanket pressure. Over feed- over should be optimum. It increase GSM but higher over feed leads to

the formation of crease mark.Utility: Electricity steam

Front view of m/c compacting zone

Steaming zone

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Fabric Inspection:

The finished fabric may have different kinds of faults. This may occur during Knitting, dyeing orfinishing. If the fabric delivered then the quality of the fabric may not be good and the buyer willreject the finished garments. For this reason careful inspection of this finished fabric is soimportant. In finished fabric the following faults are generally found:

Faults Indicating syble

Hole HDye stain DSOil stain OS

Chemical stain CSSlubs S

Lycra Out LOFly Yarn FY

Insect Spots ISCrease Mark CR

Uneven shade USNeedle Line NLThick – Thin TT

Bowing B

Neps N

In Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. 4 points system is used for calculating fabric acceptance.

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4-points system

In four points system the points are defined on the basis of defect size as shown below:

Size of the defect Penalty

7.5 cm or less 1 points

Over 7.5 cm but less than 15 cm 2 points

Over 15 cm but less than 22.5 cm 3 points

Over 22.5 cm 4 points

Any hole 4 points

Acceptance Calculation

Roll length in meter = ATotal points found = BAcceptance Value = B/A x 100 points per 100 meter

Acceptance range

Range Grade

<40 points A41 – 60 points B61 – 80 points C

Above 80 points Reject

If the fabric is found within acceptance limit then it is delivered to Garments section. But if thefabric fault is so high that cross the acceptance limit then it is rejected.

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Chapter-6

Quality Assurance Section

57

Quality Control:

Quality control is concerned with the evaluation of test data and its application to controlof the textile process, raw materials, intermediate products and final products.

It is concerned not only with quality level and cost of maintaining this quality level but alsoconcerned with the presentation of tangible values to measure quality and changes in quality. Inorder to control quality one must know about the consumers’ expectations.

List of Equipments:1. Computer2. Light box3. Electric Heater4. Sample Dyeing M/C5. Electrical Balance6. PH meter7. G S M Cutter8. Washing M/ C9. Shrinkage & spirality measurement instrument

Objectives of quality Control: Selection of raw materials Specification test Product testing. To ensure the product desired quality.

To fulfill requirements for quality.

Process control and development

To control and different techniques will be required by different conditions.

Quality assurance and so on.

To evaluate accurately of the end product.

To research and development Quality assurance and so on.

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Quality Management system:

Quality assurance procedure may be provided by the following two major parts-

Quality control

On Line Testoff Line Test

Physical TestsChemical Tests

On Line Test

- Fabric GSM control

- Grey Fabric Inspection with 4 point system

- Diameter and Width control

- Shade Check;

- Bias and Bowing;

- Visual appearance (Enzyme performance);

- Stripe.

Off Line Test

Off line quality are divided into two groups-

Physical Tests and Chemical Tests.

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Physical Tests

GSM of Fabric; Rubbing Fastness or Crocking; Pilling test; Diameter and Width; Tensile strength; Tearing test; Bursting test; Light Fastness test; Drape, Stiffness, and Handle; Course per inch; Wales per inch; Picks per inch; Ends per inch.

Chemical Tests

Shrinkage and Spirality or Twisting;

Fastness to Washing;

Fastness to Perspiration;

Fastness to Chlorine;

PH test.

Quality assurance:

Quality assurance is defined as all those possible planned and systematic actionsnecessary to provide adequate confidence than a product or service will satisfy givenrequirements for quality. The Quality Assurance Department is assigned to maintain consistentlyuniform quality of the material in process and various stages of its

manufacturing.

Quality assurance at different stage:

Assures the quality of the products of dyeing section in the following three steps:

In laboratory

In dyeing section &

In finishing section

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Procedures are described below:

In laboratory

Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement

Recipe prediction for sample dyeing

Sample dyeing until matching with swatch card

Fastness & other tests of the fabric or yarn are done here.

In dyeing section

According to the buyer’s sample, sample dyeing is done in sample dyeing machine in

dyeing shed & again matched with the approved sample.

If result is OK, then bulk production.

During dyeing, samples are taken until accurate shade matching. The interval may be

30-40 minutes.

After dyeing sample is collected after softening matching is done.

Last of all, sample is collected after fixation & matched.

Then allowed the fabrics to be finished.

In finishing section

By using a series of finishing machines correct width, softness & appearance are

maintained according to requirements.

Then sampling is done for several times to test GSM, Shrinkage & fastness properties.

Finally fabric is inspected & prepared for delivery.

Fabric Inspection:

The inspection of fabric is a procedure by which the defects of fabric are identified and fabric is

classified according to degree or intensity of defects. The fabric inspection is done for both gray

and finished fabric.

Grey Fabric Inspection:

Grey fabric inspection is performed according to 4-point system.

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Finished Fabric Inspection:

4 point numbering system is followed for finished fabric inspection.

Defects found in the final inspection:

Uneven shade

Oil spot

Neps

Crease mark

Machine Stoppage mark

Listing

Line mark

Pick missing

Double yarn

Dead cotton

Bowing

Fly yarn contamination

Test procedures for Quality Control

1. GSM Test

GSM is the most important factor. There is a G S M Cutter. The Sample is cut thenweighted in the electronic balance. The reading is then (in gm) from the balance, multiplied by100, to get Value of G S M.

2. Finished Fabric dia

In Knit, dyeing finishing, finished diameter is Very important factor. It should be kept asthe buyer requirements. Simply a measuring tape measures it. Finished diameter is controlled atcompacting m/c.

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3. Rubbing test:

1. Purpose: The fastness test to rubbing is used on a fabrics to evaluate the

transfer of surface dye from the test fabric when it is applied surface friction or rubbing against arough surface.

2. Apparatus: Crock-meter and grey scale

3. Method: ISO-105x12

4. Test specification:

Sample fabric size : 250mm X 50mm Crocking Fabric size: 50mm X 50mm

The crocking cloth against which then sample will be rubbed is a white, bleached, Un-dyedcotton fabric.

Procedure:At first the sample is placed with template over the metallic mounting plate. Then thecracking cloth is set in the crocking pin (peg) with clip. Then the test specification is rubbed to &for (10s X 10 rubs, 1 rub/sec) by means of crock meters figure. Finally the crocking cloth isremoved from the peg. In case of wet rubbing test, the crocking cloth is wetted at roomtemperature.

Evaluation:

Compare the contrast between untreated & treated white crocking cloth with the staining greyscale. Again, color contrasts of rubbed and un-rubbed by sample are compared with colorchanging grey scale. For both type of rubbing test, the fastness is rate from 1 to 5, where 1 meansworst rubbing fastness & 5 means excellent rubbing fastness.

Wash fastness:

A. Purpose: The resistance of the color of any dyed/printed material to washing is

known as wash fastness.

B. Apparatus:

Wash fastness tester, Grey scale, Multi-fiber.

C. Method: ISO-105-CO6

D. Test specimen: For Fabric: Fabric, size 10 cm X 4 cm.

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Multi-fiber fabric: Multi-fiber fabric size 10 cm X 4 cm.

E. Reagent:

ECE determent 50gm Na-perborate 10gm Tade= 2gm 4BK= 2gm Water= 20lt pH =10.5±1 Time = 30min Temperature = 600C No. of still ball (on condition) =50

F. Procedure:

Weight of the specimen & volume of the wash liquor are calculated as require ISO-105-CO6 method.

Place of the specimen in the container with the wash liquor. Run the machine & rise the Temp. at600C and run for 30min. m/c will automatically wash & rinse the fabric Drying: Drying in a fully automatic dryer at temperature not more then 600C then keep

in relax for 1 hour.

H. Assessment: color change: The original & tested dyed sample are placed by side, oriented inthe same direction along with the color change grey scale and compare the contrast between thetreated dyed sample and the same untreated sample with the appropriate pair of color change thegrey scale. If there is no change in color, then its ratting will be 5.

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Chapter- 7

Garments Section

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Chapter- 7

Garments Section

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Chapter- 7

Garments Section

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Garments Manufacturing

Garment making is one of the basic content of fashion designing. Proficiency in the artof sewing is an essential pre-requisite in garment making. Therefore, it is necessary toknow the techniques of sewing for producing attractive garments with good fit. Garmentmaking is thus a technical accomplishment that requires knowledge of fabrics, principlesof clothing construction and skills involved in it. This depends on the ability to select thecorrect fabric, colour, design and accessories to suit an individual occasion. A garmentthat is made will be attractive if it fits well and proper attention is paid to its finer details.

There are 2 types of garments. One is Woven garments. Another is Knitted garments.Shirts, trousers, sharees, bed spreads, blankets, towels and made ups are Woven. Tshirts, sweatshirts, undergarments, pajamas and socks are Knits.

Woven fabrics are made in hand looms, power looms and mill made. Making wovenfabrics is simple. But yarn counts, reed & picks (warp & weft), width should beconsidered with more care. The fabric quality is made differently by various methods offinishing and treating.

Knit fabrics are made in different kinds of knitting machines. According to the structureof fabrics, they are called by different names. The mainly used fabrics are Jersey,Pique, Interlock, Rib, French Rib, Flat back rib, Loop knit, Fleece, Polar fleece andJacquards. The knit garments can be made in solid dyed or all over printed or yarnstriped or jacquard fabrics

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Garments Manufacturing Sequence

Garments manufacturing follows a flowchart where in each steps definite works arecompleted to carried out a complete garments. Here I will show you all of the garmentsmanufacturing steps that you must follow to make a garment.

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Flow chart of garments manufacturing:

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Sample section:

Sample is the protitype or model of the garments, upon what the buyer can decide onhow and whether to confirm the order or not.It makes for buyer approvel and before bulk of production to minimize the faults and errors andalso find the easy process for bulk production.

The details attached to the garments sample:

After the confirmation of order each sample sent to the buyer has the following deails attached toit with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both what the buyer has demandedand what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used.

Ref no.Colour.FabricCompositionDescriptionQuantityStyle no/sizeStore

Persons involved in sampling:Salesman samples or promotional samplesProto samples or fit samplesCounter samples or referencce samples or approval samplesWash test samplesPhoto samplesFashion show samplesPre-production samplesProduction samplesShipment samples

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Types of Sample:

Photo sample Fit sample Size set sample Pre Production sample Salesman sample Counter sample Shipping sample

Cutting Section:Fabric cutting depertment is the one which plays a key role in production. It is the begining ofthe production. So the fabric cutting has the most efficient processionals working in it. The fabriccutting depertment should work as fast as possible because the more the unloading of bundlestake place the more the production can take place.

Objectives of cutting section:Prepare fabrics for ready made garments.Cut fabrics according to design and pattern.Prepare fabrics for sewing and also for printing and embroidery.

MARKER MAKING: It is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern pieces for allsizes for a particular style of garments. It gives special instruction for cutting. It can be done bothmanually and computerized

CONSIDERABLE POINTS BEFORE MARKER MAKING:

Fabric width (1/2) higher than marker width Fabric length higher than marker length (1” + 1”) The grain line should be parallel to the line of Wales in knit fabrics. All the pattern pieces of garments should be along the same direction when laid on an

asymmetric fabric. Considered garments production planning.

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COMPUTERISED MARKER MAKING:

There are two systems for marker making

Digitizing system.Automatic system.

FACTOES RELATED TO MARKER EFFICIENCY:

Marker planer Size of garments Marker length Pattern engineering Fabric Characteristics Marker making method Marker width. Style of garments.

MARKER EFFICIENCY: The marker planner measures his success by the efficiency of themarker plan. The following formula is used to measure the efficiency:

Marker efficiency=Area of the pattern in the marker plan/ Total area of the marker plan X 100%.

MINIMIZATION OF FABRIC WASTAGES OUTSIDE THE MARKER:

There are four points for the fabric minimization outside the marker

1. Ends of ply losses.

2. Loss of fabric in roll.

3. Selvedge loss.

4. Purchase loss.

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FABRIC SPREADING:

Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table orcutting table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting process: The markerplanner measures his success by the efficiency of the marker plan. The following formula is usedto measure the efficiency:

Marker efficiency=Area of the pattern in the marker plan/ Total area of the marker plan X 100%.

There are four points for the fabric minimization outside the marker

1. Ends of ply losses.

2. Loss of fabric in roll.

3. Selvedge loss.

. A spread is the total amount for a single marker.

EQUIPMENT OF FABRIC SPREADING:

Spreading equipment consists of:

Spreading surface. Spreading machines. Fabric controlling device. Fabric cutting devices.

The appropriate type of spreading surface is determined by the type, spreadingequipment, cutting method, cutting equipment, and the industry’s quality standards.

The fundamental purpose of a spreading machine is to superimpose layers of the fabric ina smooth, tension –free manner for accurate and efficient cutting.

Fabric control devices at higher rates of travel, it is an operate to monitor more than oneaspect of the operation ; therefore ,edge sensing devices; lap counters , with monitors,and out-of –cloth sensors simply the operation so the operator’s primary concern is thefabric being spread.

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Objects of fabric spreading:

To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan correctly alignedas to length and with and without tension.

To cut the garments in bulk and saving in cutting time per garment that result fromcutting many plies at the same time.

TYPES OF SPREADING:

There are two types of spreading

1. Flat spreading.

2. Stepped spreading.

MEHODS OF FABRIC SPREADING:

1. Manual method.

2. Mechanical method.

a) Semi automatic.

b) Full automatic.

REQUIRMENTS OF FABRIC SPREADING:

1. Alignment of fabric ply. 6. Elimination of static electricity.

2. Correct ply tension 7.Matching checks and stripes.

3. Fabric must be flat. 8. Easy separation of cut lay into bundles.

4. Elimination of fabric flaws. 9. Avoidance of fusion of plies during cutting.

5. Correct ply direction and stability. 10. Avoidance of distortion in Spread.

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Types and name of cutting machines:

There are many kinds of cutting machine are used in our country. Cutting machine is as follows:

1. Straight knife cutting machine.2. Band knife cutting machine.3. Round Knife cutting machine.4. Die cutting machine.5. Automatic Straight Knife cutting Machine6. Cutting by laser beam7. Cutting by water jet.

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List Of Garments Machineries:

Name No’s Name No’s

Plain Machine Single needle : 400 Feed of the Arm 02 needle : 10

Double needle : 50 04 needle : 15

Over Lock 03 thread : 40 Back tape : 30

04 Thread : 400 Binding Cutter : 50

05 Thread : 70 Blind Stitch : 50

Gathering over lock : 30 Latus Stitch : 60

Flat Lock Cylinder bed normal : 80 Rib Cutter Machine : 30

Cylinder bed computerized : 200 Chain Stitch Single needle : 30

Cylinder bed small singling : 60 Double needle : 30

Cylinder bed auto trimmer : 200 Fusing : 20

Flat bed : 250 H&E : 10

General Category Button Hole : 30 Elastic join flat lock : 60

Button Stitch : 30 Placko Stitch : 20

Kansal special : 40 Elastic join Over Lock : 60

Bar-tack : 30 Single Needle : 153

Snap button : 30 O/L : 55

Picot : 20 Cylindered Engle : 40

Cocot : 20 Button Hole : 06

Smoke 12 needle : 10 Button Stitch : 06

33 needle : 10 Rib Cutting : 02

Zig-Zag : 50

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SEWING SEQUENCE OF BASIC T-SHIRT:

Serial Operation Machine used

1. Front part gathering Plain M/C(2)

2. Solder Joint Over lock M/C(1)Threadno.4

3. Neck rib make Plain M/C(1)

4. Neck joint Over lock M/C (1)

5. Main+Size level joint Plain M/C(1)

6. Level joint Plain M/C (1)

7. Sleeve gathering Plain M/C(2)

8. Sleeve joint Plain M/C ()

9. Side seam Over lock M/C(2)

10. Cuff rib make Plain M/C(1)

11. Bottom make Over lock M/C(1)

12. Bottom joint Plain M/C(1)

13. Loop make Plain M/C(1)

14. Loop top seam Over lock M/C(1)

15. Loop attachment Plain M/C(3)

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Sewing machines :

1.Butterfly Sewing machine

Model number: Ja-2

Brand name :Butterfly

Country :China

Stitch: Lock stitch

2.Flat bed interlock sewing machine:

Model number:FY31016-01CB

Brand name: YAMATA

Country: China

Stitch : Chain stitch

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3.Over lock Sewing machine

Model number:HR3614

Brand name: Honrey

Country:China

Stitch: overlock

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Stitch:

Stitch is one unit of conformation of thread resulting from repeatedly passing a strand(s) and/or a

loop(s) of thread into or through a material at uniformity spaced intervals to form a series of

stitches.

The simplest definition of “stitch” is a formation of thread for the purpose of making a seam.

“Stitch” may be referred both to the thread interloping or interlocking used to make seams.

Stitch quality measured with:

Stitch size.

Stitch tension.

Stitch sequence.

Elongation.

Elasticity.

Fabric distortion.

Stitch types:

According to British standard stitch can be classified as-

1. Stitch class 100- Chain stitch.

2. Stitch class 200- Stitches originating as hand stitch.

3. Stitch class 300- Lock stitch.

4. Stitch class 400- Multithread chain stitch.

5. Stitch class 500- Over edge chain stitch.

6. Stitch class 600- Covering chain stitch.

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In stitch classes, the numbers carry the following meanings:

The first digit designates each stitch class.

The second & third digits identify the stitch type within the class. For example, 301 & 304

indicates that these are stitch types of Class 300 and 01 and 04 are the first variation and forth

variation respectively.

Stitch Class 100 (Single Thread Chain Stitch):

This is basically a single thread chain stitch. It is formed with one or more needle threads that

form a loop on the underside of the fabric. It doesn’t have under thread. The needle thread

interlopes with itself on the back of the fabric to form a simple chain.

Features of Class 100:

» Simple chain stitches.

» Interloped.

» Plane on face & single chain on back.

» Flexible but unravel easily.

» Use one thread only.

Types of Stitch Class 100:

Stitch class 100 includes stitches types 101,102,103,104 & 105.

Fig: Stitch Type 101 & 103

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Applications of Stitch Class 100:

This stitch class is generally used for –

Button sewing.

Bag closing.

Padding operations.

Trousers.

Hemming.

Belt loops

Snap fasteners

Cuffs tacks etc

STITCH CLASS 200:

This class of stitch is formed by hand with needle thread and requires that each threads andrequires that each thread passes through the materials as a single line of thread. Each stitch issecured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the material or the interloping of thethreads themselves. When more than one thread is used, the thread passes through the sameperforation in the material. (Stitch class 205 is exception, because this type simulates a handrunning stitch but is formed by a special machine).

Types:

The types of stitches under Class 200 are 201,202,203,204 & 205.

Fig: Stitch Class 200,202,203,204 & 205.

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Applications of Stitch Class 200:

Stitch Class 200 is generally used in

» Outer edges of tailored jackets.

» Leg opening of Pants.

» Sleeve edges of short sleeve shirt.

Stitch Class 300 (Lock Stitch):

This class of stitch is formed with two or more groups of threads and requires the interlacing of

the two groups. Loops of the first group are passed through the material where they are secured

by the threads of the second group to form a stitch.

This type of stitch which is known as straight stitch or plain stitch and it is actually the same that

is made by house-wives on conventional domestic sewing machine. In fact, these stitches are the

single, straight and continuous row of stitches on both sides of the fabric .

Fig: Stitch type-300

Features of Stitch Class 300:

» Lock stitches.

» Interlocked.

» Strong but not very extensible.

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» Seams do not grin but tend to pucker.

» Flat

» Non-bulky.

» Very comfortable.

» Hard to unravel.


Fig: stitch class 304

Types of stitches under this class are

301,302,303,304,305,306,307,308,310,311,312,313,314,315 & 316.

Applications of stitch class 300:

Stitch class 300 is generally used for top stitching, lingerie, swim wear, sails etc.

For a seam joining of facing collars pockets and many similar garments parts.

Stitch Class 400:

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These are multi-thread chain stitches or double-locked chain stitches. Multi-thread chain stitchesare formed by one or more needle threads passing through the fabric and inter-looping withlooper thread (under thread).

This stitch is the two-thread chain stitch that consists of a needle thread interloping with thelopper thread and due to its strength and extensibility, it is more suitable in comparison to 300lock stitches for stitching of elastic and knit apparels. On face of the fabric it looks like a 300lock stitch, but its double loops are visible on back of the fabric.

Fig: Stitch type 401


» Multithread chain stitches

» Interloped

» Strong and more extensible than class 300

» Seam grin but less likely to pucker than 300

» Bulkier and slightly less comfortable than 300

Types of stitch class 400:

Types of stitches under this class are 401,402,403,404,405,406 and 407.

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Fig: Stitch type-400


This class is mainly used for main seaming as in jeans, belt loops, binding, attaching elastic,

hemming etc.

Also used in combination with an over edge stitch for economy of seam joining and neatening in

bulk production.

Stitch class 500:

This class is termed as over edge, because these are formed over the edge of the fabric, encasing

the edge in thread interloping. Over edge stitches are made on conventional and small sewing

machines called over-edgers or sergers.

500 stitch features a needle thread and two lopper threads. It does two jobs simultaneously. One,

it sews the seam as well as makes the edge neat by trimming and finishing. 500 stitch results in

purled edge, a series of raised loops formed by the interloping of lopper threads at the edge.

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Fig: Stitch type 503


» Over edge stitches

» Interloped

» Strong (safety stitches very durable)

» Very extensible

» Seam grin is a problem but not likely to pucker

» Some what bulky and less comfortable than 300

» Can be used only on edges

» Stitches seam

» Trims and finishes edge simultaneously


The types of stitches under this class are

501,502,503,504,505,506,507,508,509,510,511,512,513,514,515,516,517,518,519,520, 521 and

522.

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Fig: Stitch class-503,504


This stitch class is used for but edge seaming , wetting, surging, knit goods etc.

» This type of stitch can be used to provide a decorative neatening edge if sewn with high stitch

density and where narrow dense stitch is required. »

Specially used for men’s wear

» Particularly suitable for trousers/pants

Stitch class 600:

Stitches of this class are termed as cover stitches also known as interlock stitches, flat lock

stitches or flat seam stitches.

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This class joins two fabric plies and cover the face and back of the seam with stitches in a single

run through the machine. That is why, sometimes, these stitches are also described as top and

bottom covering stitches.

The machine used for stitching of this class are extremely fast, efficient and can operate a very

high speed like 7000 to 9000 spm. In this class, stitch is formed by two or more needle loops

passing through material, interloping on the underside and interlocking on the upper side.

Fig: Stitch class-600


» Cover stitches

» Interloped

» Strong

» Very extensible

» Not likely to pucker

» Several threads show face and back

» Stitch somewhat bulky

» Less comfortable than 300

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» Stitches flat seams

» Joins abutted or overlapped edges

» Covers top and bottom of seam simultaneously


The types of stitches under class 600 are 601,602,603,604,605,606 and 607.

Fig: Stitch class –607,605

Applications of stitch class600:

These stitches are commonly used for binding, attaching elastic, under wear, swim wear,

interlock garments etc.

» Mostly used in making a flat, comfortable elastic joining.

» Joining braid or bi-adding to the edges of garments.

Seam:

A seam is made when two or more layers of fabric are stitched together. It’s the ‘line’ that is

formed by sewing together pieces of cloth. Stitches used to make such a line.

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Fig: Seam

Seam Types:

Class-i, superimposed seam.

Class-ii, Lapped seam.

Class-iii, Bound seam.

Class-iv, Flat seam.

Class-v, Decorative seam.

Class-vi, Edge Neatening seam.

Class-vii, like as Lapped seam.

Class-viii, Class 8.

Superimposed seam:

The superimposed seam is used to join two or more pieces of material (fabric or otherwise)

together. It is created by one ply of fabric being stacked (superimposed) upon another with their

right sides (the one that will show when the item is worn or used) together and using thread to

stitch through all layers. This is one of the most common and simplest methods of seaming and is

used to construct most commercial garments.

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Fig: Seam

Seam Types:









Superimposed seam:






89

Fig: Seam

Seam Types:









Superimposed seam:






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Fig: Superimposed seam.

Usage:

- Side seam of basic pants.

- Side seam of shirts.

Lapped seam:This class of seaming has the largest number of variations. This type of seam is produced byoverlapping of two raw edges of the fabric and at least one of the edge must be neatened in adecorative manner, by using two or more rows of zigzag stitching.

Fig: Lapped seam.

Usage:

- Inner seam of long sleeve.

- Side seam of jeans etc.

Bound seam:The purpose of a bound seam is to finished the raw edge of a garment. A common usage of thisfinish is seen on the neckline of a collarless garment made of woven fabric. A bound seam ismade by using one piece of usually bias-cut fabric to enclose the raw edge of another piece offabric. There are many variations of a bound seam. Technically this is a finishing method, ratherthan a seam.

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Usage:




Fig: Lapped seam.

Usage:




90


Usage:




Fig: Lapped seam.

Usage:




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Fig: Bound seamUsage:-To attach elastic in the edge of garments.

-In Neck edge of basic T-shirt, waist band, woman’s blouse, baby’s nightgown, child bishopdress, camisole etc.

Flat seam:In this seam type, fabric edges buttled together without causing any gap and joining across by astitch, which has two needles sewing into each fabric ancovering threads passing back and forthbetween these needles on both sides of the fabric.

Fig: Flat seam.

Usage:-Hem of knitted underwear.

-For decorative garments items.

Decorative seam:The seam in this class is produced by decorative stitching across a garment panel, where singleor multiple rows of stitches are sewn through one or more layers of fabric. These several layerscan be folds of the same fabric.

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Fig: Decorative seam.Usage:-To produce gathering on fabric.

-To make pleat in the garments.

-To attach ribbon etc.

Edge neatening seam:Seam types in this class include those, where fabric edges are neatened by means of stitches(over lock stitches) well as folded hems and edges.

Fig: Edge neatening seam.

Usage:-In side edges of a pant’s side seam.

-Hems of skirt, shirt etc.

-Button holes.

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Like as lapped seam:

Seam in this class relate to the addition of separate items to the edges of a garment part. They are

similar to the lapped seam, except that the added component has a definite edge on both sides.

Usage:

-Inserted elastic on the leg of a swimming dress.

-Band and lace attachment to the lower edge of sleeve.

-Elastic braid on the edge of the bra.

Class 8:

Final seam class, where only one piece of material need to be involved in constructing the seam.

Usage:

-Belt loop as used on jeans, rain coat.

-Loop for braid penetration in children wear.

Printing SectionThere are one floors in the printing section. Here are the details about Printing-

Machinery of Printing Section

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Sl.No Machine Name Total No’s

1 Auto Screen Printing Machine 5

2 Manual Revolving Printing Machine 10

3 Manual Flat bed Printing 10 Lines

4 Flock Machine 10 Lines

5 Dryer 10

6 Expose Machine 7

7 Heat Press Machine 2

8 Fushing Conveyer 8

Different types of Printing: Pigment Print Rubber print High Density Print Plastisol Print Puff print Gliter print Rainbow print Pearl scent Radium print Foil print Jel print Metallic print Heat transfer (this system is not used) Flock Print (this system is not used) Discharge print

Printing faults:1. Print color shading

2. Print slarted

3. Color spot

4. Bleeding

5. Print wrong

21. Wrong side

22. Color wrong

23. Size mistake

24. Bunoledle card mistake

25.Fabric h

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6. Print burn

7. Air hole

8. Print bubble

9. Print missing

10. Wrong place

11. Not properly attached

12. Hand feels

13. Migration

14. Dirty mark

15. Uneven shade

16. Shade variation

17. Print sticky

18. Print not coverage

19. Print gap

20. Print over

26.Fabric shade

27.Crease mark

28. Oil spot

29. Fabric burn

30.Needle mark

31. Cutting problem

32. Sticker wrong

33. Dye migration

34.Yarn hole

35. Yarn contamination

36. Fly yarn.

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Embroidery Section

Embroidery is the art of handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and threadof yarn. Embroidery may incorporate other materials such as metal strips, pearls, beds,quills, andsequins.

Types of Embroidery:

1. All-overs.

2. Trim.

3. Collar

4. Insert.

5. Rubber bobbins.

6. Ribon Inserts.

7. Applique Embroidery.

8. Hand Cut Embroidery.

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Embroidery Section



1. All-overs.

2. Trim.

3. Collar

4. Insert.

5. Rubber bobbins.

6. Ribon Inserts.



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Embroidery Section



1. All-overs.

2. Trim.

3. Collar

4. Insert.

5. Rubber bobbins.

6. Ribon Inserts.



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Embroidery faults:

-down

hole

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Finishing:Finishing is the addition of special detailing such as pleats, embroidery

and screen printing to a garments. This includes hand stitching (unseen handwork done insidecollars and lapel to given them shape) and its automated substitutes. This may also includeadding buttons, hooks, eyes or trims as well as clipping loose threads. All finishing of moderateand lower priced garments is done by machine.

Pressing:Some pressing termed under pressing may be done in the course of assembling a garments forexample, ironing a collar. Most pressing is done after assembly folded instead of pressed.Although pressing remains largely a manual task, new automated process exists that apply forceand steam to garments placed over a body form.

Categories of pressing:

1. No pressing: Here pressing is not required, e.g. knitted garments such as undergarments,briefs etc.

2. Minimum pressing: Only heat is applied to garments, such as sweater, T-shirt etc.3. Under pressing: Before sewing some parts of garments are pressed for its proper

finishing, such as pants, coats/blazer etc.4. Final pressing: After completing the garments final pressing is done then it is packed to

a poly bag for shipment.5. Permanent pressing: Many fabric effects are made by heavy pressing; this is known as

permanent pressing, e.g. pleat of shirt, dirt of pant, lapel of coat etc.

Pressing equipment and methods:

1. Iron2. Steam process3. Steam air finish4. Steam tunnel

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Ironing:

This is a finishing process done by subjecting a cloth to heat & pressure with or without steamto remove unintended creases and to impart a flat appearance to the or garments. Also, pressingis done to introduce creases in the garments, in garments industries, pressing is called Ironing.

Objects of Ironing:

1. Remove of unwanted creases and crinkles.2. To apply creases where necessary.3. Shaping.4. Under pressing.5. Under pressing.6. Final pressing.

Folding:After pressing garments are given crinkle according to the specific volume or standard volume isknown as folding. Folding types are depends on the different types fabric/garments. There arefour types of folding for shirt, they are-

1. Standup: Collar is situated when it is crinkle with body at 90° angel.2. Semi standup: Collar is situated when it is crinkle with body at 45° angel.3. Flat pack: Collar is totally laid down on the body of shirt.4. Hanger pack: Shirt is exported with hanger packing form.

Packing:

After folding the garments, it is packed in to polyethylene packet. Pet packet has a specific size.

Poly used for packing:

1. PP (not soft).

2. PE (soft).

Used of poly depends on the buyer’s requirement. Buyer also noticed about folding, packing &cartooning.

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Cartooning process:

For cartooning, maintain (Length × Width × Height). According to the buyer’s recommendation,use (60 × 40 × 30) size for the weight of 15 kg.

Assortment types for carton:

1. Solid color solid size.

2. Solid color assorted size.

Size/color S

Blue =12 pieces

3. Assorted size solid color.

Size/color S M L Piece

Blue 4 6 2 =12

4. Assorted size assorted color.

Size/color S M L Piece

Blue 1 2 1 =4

Red 1 1 2 =4

White 2 1 1 =4

Total =12

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Packing mistake:

Not packed according to packing list per product. Wrong price tag. Missing price tag without merchandiser approval. None seen able price tag. Missing price tag on out side of carton. Wrong packing of assortment. Wrong carton size. Wrong weight of packing list.

Wrong weight per size on packing list. Missing specification. Packing list template not used. Carton making template not used.

The requirements to maintain quality in packing &assortment:

1) Wrong Model2) Wrong Quantity3) Missing labels & tags4) Wrong Size & Colour assortment5) Wrong Folding

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Garment Inspection:

All garment retailers expect to sell high quality products from manufactures. The qualityof the garments any vary depends on the price market they are being made for sotherefore buyers expect manufacturers expect manufacturers to follow various methodsof inspection techniques all through the production and prior to shipment release fromfactory. Following correct inspection procedures, inspection systems and eventuallyshipment release gives the clear judgment of the quality of the garment.

Under quality assurance process, the bulk production is inspected before delivery to thecustomer to examine if it meets the specifications. The consumers want to get qualityproducts and the products should reach the consumers with right quality.

Quality assurance covers all the processes within a factory that contributes to theproduction of quality garment products and is conducted right from where housing,manufacturing, finishing and packing process until shipment is released. The finalinspection is carved out by buyer representative or independent auditors free from anypressure from vendor or factory representative. Air of final inspection is to visuallyinspect articles at random from fully or 80-90% packed purchase order to verify theirgeneral conformity and appearance with instruction/description and/or reference taggedsample received from buyer. Result is documented and recorded as reference but stillvendor/manufacturer is always responsible for claims if any arising due to any defectivegoods found packed and inspected at buyers warehouse.

Types of Inspections

Pre-Production Inspection: This is done before production starts. It is done tocrosscheck for final verification of Bulk fabric and trims materials, styling cutting way,manufacturing details and workmanship of the garment or pre-production sample as perthe customer requirement.

1st inline production inspection: This inspection is done at the start of productionwhen first production output of particular style of garments is inspected; to distinguishpossible discrepancies or variation and to do necessary corrections to be made bulkproduction. This type of inspection is done at preliminary stage of manufacturing of a

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style covering mainly style detail, general appearance, workmanship, measurements,fabric quality, Trims and components, Lot color, printing, embellishments and washingquality.

2nd line Production Inspection: This inspection is done during production to ensureinitial discrepancies have been corrected and rectified. This inspection is a follow-up ofthe 1 st inline production inspection and is generally carried out after 1st line inspectionwhen discrepancies have been detected at that time.

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Chapter- 8

Merchandising Section

104

Chapter- 8


104

Chapter- 8


105

Merchandising:

Merchandising is the depertment which mediates marketing and production depertments. It isspace optimization through effective brand/package allocation, focusing on gaining first position,providing greatest exposure of brands to all consumers,creating a consistent, orderly and cleanappearence for the products, maximizing the use of POS to increase consumer awarness of brandand promotions. Sometimes, merchandising department will have to do costing and pricing also..In any case the merchandiser is the person whose responsibility is to execute the orders perfectlyas per the costing and pricing. So it is very valuable department

Two types of merchandising done in garments exports:

1. Marketing merchandising.2. Product merchandising.

Marketing merchandising:

Main funtion of marketing merchandising is-

Product development. Costing. Ordering marketing merchandising is to bring orders costly

products development and it has direct contact with the buyer.

Product merchandising:

Product merchandising is done in the unit. This includes all the responsibilities fromsourcing to finishing i.e. first sample onwards, the products merchandising work start and endstill shipment

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A Merchandisers key responsibilities is as follows:

Product development Market and product analysis Selling the concept Booking orders Confirming deliveries Designing and sampling Costing Raw materials Production follow ups Payment follows Internal & external communication Sampling Lab dip Accessories and trims Preparing internal order sheet Preparing purchase orders Advising and assisting production Advising quality department about quality level Giving shipping instruction and following shipping Helping documentation department Taking responsibility for inspections Following up the shipment

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Process flow chart of Merchandising:

Merchandiser

Negotiation with buyer & collect order

Costing

Sample making

Get approval & placement of order

Collect accessories for production

Line balancing

Production monitoring

Final Inspection

Banking

Shipment

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Purchase order sheet:

What is Purchase Order Sheet?

This is generally abbreviated to P.O.

The Purchase Order can be defined as a written sales contract between buyer and sellerdetailing the exact merchandise to be rend from a single vendor.

It will specify payment terms, delivery dates, item identification, quantities, shippingterms and all other obligations and conditions.

A contract to purchase merchandise may include a number of P.O. sheets defining them color-wise and size-wise quantity or as per buyers' wish

What does a P.O. Contain?

The Purchase Order is provided to the vendor as a record of the Purchase. A sample PurchaseOrder sheet indicates the followings-

A) Purchase Order Number

- The number is assigned to the purchase order. This is used to identify a definite order and fordepartmental record keeping,

B) vendor's Name and Address

- The complete name and address of the individual or company which manufacture themerchandise.

- The sequential line number which corresponds with the line on the requisition (i.e., the firstitem would be line 1; the second would be line 2, etc.).

C) Quantity

- The quantity of the item being purchased.

D) UQP (Unit of Purchase)

-The packaging of the item to be purchased (i.e., each, box, package, poly, dozen, cartonetc.)

E) Unit Price

- The unit price of the item ordered.

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F) Extended Price/ Total Price

- The total quantity of the item multiplied by its unit price.

G) Description- The complete description of the item ordered in detail, i.e. color, size ratio, critical designs,buttons and other trims, printings, sewing thread used etc,

H) Total- The total amount of all items on the purchase order.- During partial shipment, color-wise andsize-wise quantity to be shipped is mentioned.

I) Ship To

- Receiving Department address

J) Deliver To

- The complete name and location of the individual who requested the ordered goods.

K) Dale

- The date at which the purchase order was received and also the date at which the order willhave to be shipped.

L) Payment Terms

- Payment terms defined by Purchasing Department of the buyer.

M) Ship Via

- Shipping instructions entered by Purchasing Department.

N) F.O.B.

- Shipping terms defined by Purchasing Department.

O) Freight Terms

- Freight terms defined by Purchasing Department.

P) P. O. Line No.

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Inquiry sheet:

What is an Inquiry Sheet?This is the most important document sent by the buyer to a merchandiser to start themerchandising activities.The technical term of Inquiry Sheet is Product Specification Sheet(P, S, S,). But some buyer and some manufacturer also use the term of Tech-Pack or Style-Pack.

The buyer specifies all the necessary points of a particular garmentWhat they want to purchase-

The merchandiser has to study the P, S.S. very well for fartherActivities. He must reply within24 hours.

What does the Inquiry Sheet possess? The Tech-Pack includes the following- Styling of the garment Sketch of the garment Size range Fabric (denoted with cut-able width ) Interlining Pocketing(for shirt or pant) Measurement sheet

Trims/Accessories-

I. Label

Main label (with/without size) Care label Trucking label/DPCR label Size label

II. Tag

III. Hang tag, joker tag and adjustable waist tag.

IV. Thread: color & count specified.

V. Button: Ligne number and types specified.

VI. Zipper

VII. Bow (for kids' item)

VIII. Poly

IX. Tag pin

X. Gum tag

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XI. Carton ETC

Washing details (for denim fabrics) Embroidery details (if any) Printing details on Art Sheet (if any)

SWATCH CARD:

What is Swatch Card?

When all the items (fabric and accessories) needed to manufacture a particular style of garmentare attached on a board as a sample by using both side adhesive tapes, it is called Swatch Card.

Separate swatch card is prepared for different style of garment.

The objective of making 'Swatch Card1 is to assess the quality forproduction

The items attached in a swatch card are -

Fabric - separately for each different color. Thread - for different count and type Button - for different Ligne Number Label - for different types (main, size & care label etc) and forDifférent size (2T, 3T

etc). Price tag Poly bag ETC

Swatch Card has to made a few for each separate department, for example -

For Production Manager For Quality Manager For Store Office For Buying house / Buyers representative For Merchandiser own self And for each production unit.

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Importance of Swatch Card:

For a merchandiser this is very important for continuing his job.

Without this he cannot move his arena-

It is chat where all materials and accessories are present with their color combination. For this, itis much more important to lake approval from the buyer as well as to give the appropriateinstructions to the supplier to supply the necessary and appropriate goods.

How can we get Fabric Consumption & Fabrics Price?Say: ** Body Length = 85, Chest Width = 52, Sleeve Length = 44 & G.S.M = 240

Fabric Description: 100 % Cotton S/J

Fabric Need = [(85+5+44+5) 52+5] 2 12 240/10000000+10%

= [(90+49) 57] 2 12 240/10000000+10%

= (13957) 2 12 240/10000000+10%

= 7923 12 240/10000000+10%= 45636480/10000000 + 10%

= 4.563648 +10%

= 4.563648 + .4563

= 5.02 Kgs Fabrics

Say Per Kgs Price: US$ 6.00/Kgs

Fabrics Price:

Total Fabric Need 5.00 Kg $ 6.00 = $ 30.00

Trim/ Accessories (Minimum Charge) = $ 2.50

Cutting & Making Charge (C.M) = $ 5.00

Printing Charge (If any) = $ 0.00

Embroidery Charge (If any) = $ 0.00

Buying Commission (If necessary) 5% = $ 1.97

= $ 39.47/12

Poly bag costing :

Total Length X width X Thickness

= 36cm X 28cm X 10mm

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= 10080/72000

= 0.14pcs/lb

114

Chapter-9

Maintenance Section

115

Maintenance:Machine, buildings and other facilities are subjected to deterioration due to their use and

exposure to environmental condition. Process of deterioration, if unchecked, culminates in

rendering these service facilities unserviceable and brings them to a standstill. In Industry,

therefore has no choice but to attend them from time to time to repair and recondition them so as

to elongate their life to the extent it is economically and physically possible to do so.

Objectives of Maintenance:

1. To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an optimum working condition.

2. To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to customer.

3. To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thus to have control over the production

program.

4. To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.

5. To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production

Maintenance of Machinery:

Maintenance

Preventive Maintenance Break DownMaintenance

Electrical Mechanical Electrical Mechanical

116

Preventive Maintenance:

Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine actively to ensure on time inspection /

checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production break downs or harmful

description.

Break Down Maintenance:In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot perform its normal

functions.

Routine Maintenance:

Maintenance of different machines are prepared by expert engineer of maintenance department.

Normally in case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days complete checking of different

important parts are done.

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Maintenance of knitting machine:

SL. No. Items need to be checked & Serviced

1 Check and tightening all motor terminals.

2 Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening terminals

3 Clean the ventilation fans of panel board and circular fan on

top of machine

4 Check and clean the interfacing and data cables.

5 Check and tightening the proximity switch terminals.

6 Inspection, cleaning and tightening all the terminals in the

panel

7 Check and tightening limit switch, safety door guard and the

emergency switch.

8 Functional test of the yarn detector.

118

Check List of Different Parts

Maintenance: Mechanical.Machine: Dyeing machine


1 Crease the m/c bearing.

2 Complete cleaning of machine.

3 Cleaning of drain valves, replace seals if required.

4 Check air supply filters, regulators auto drain seals

5 Clean filters element and blow out

6 Greasing of unloading roller bearing.

7 Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading roller

gearbox.

8 Checking of unloading roller coupling and packing.

9 Checking & cleaning (if required) of main vessel level

indicator.

10 Check the oil level of pump bearing and refill if

required.

11 Check the function of heat and cool modulating valves

12 Check all door seals

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Machine: Dyeing machine


1 Check & clean fluff and dirt at dirt at all motor fan covers.

2 Check all motor's terminals

3 Check main panels (by using compressed air)

4 Check panel cooling fan & clean its filter

5 Clean main pump inverter and its cooling fan.

6 Check all circuit breaker, magnetic conductors and relays.

7 Check current setting of all circuit breaker & motor over

load.

8 Visual checking of all power & control cables.

9 Check all pressure switches

10 Check calibration of main vessel & all addition tank

11 Check all pneumatic solenoids

12 Check calibration of heating/cooling modulating value

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13 Check setting of tangle sensor.

14 Check setting & operation of lid safely switches.

15 Check setting & operation of lid safely switches.

16 Check all emergency switches

17 Check all indicating lamps

18 Check all on/off switches

Maintenance: Mechanical

Machine: Boiler

SI. No. Item needed to be checked & Serviced

1 Checking of gas pressure and gas supply line

2. Dosing of softening chemicals to supply water

3. Checking of all steam lines

4. Cleaning of burner tank (after six month interval)

5. Checking and replacement of valves

6. Cleaning of feed water tank

7. Checking and replacement of filters

8. Cleaning of sight glass

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Maintenance Tools & Equipments:

1. Combination tools / spanner:

Function: Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts.

2. Socket ratchet set:

Function: Tightening of nuts & bolts.

3. Slide range:


4. Monkey pliers:


5. Pipe threat cutting tools:

Function: To cut the threat in pipe.

6. Bearing puller:

Assist the opening of bearing from shaft.

7. Pipe range:

Function: Tightening & loosening of pipe joint.

8. Pipe cutting tools:

Function: For pipe cutting.

9. Hole punch:

Function: Punching the hole.

122

10. Divider:

Function: For circle marking on metal & wood.

11. Easy opener:

Function: To open the broken head bolt.

12. External threat die:

Function: For external threat cutting.

13. Heavy scissor:

Function: Cutting of gasket & steel sheet.

14. Oil can:

Function: Oiling of moving parts.

15. Drill machine and drill bit:

Function: For drilling.

16. Grease gun;

Function: For greasing of moving parts of m/c.

17. Grinding m/c:

Function: For grinding & cutting of mild steel.

18. Welding m/c:

Function: For welding & cutting.

19. Spirit leveler:

Function: For perfect leveling.

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20. File:

Function: For smoothing the surface.

21. Hammer:

Function: For scaling & right angling.

22. Circle tools:

Function: Circle opening & closing.

23. Hacksaw blade:

Function: For metal cutting.

24. Handsaw (wood):

124

Chapter – 10

Utilities and Power Development

125

Utilities:Abanti colour Tex LTDis a big project and so of course having a vast project of utility andelectricity service.Here ACTL use Gas generator.

GAS GENERATOR

Brand Capacity Country of Origin QTY Function

■ WAUKESHA 1125 KVA / 900 KW USA 1 Set GAS

■ KUMINS 500 KVA UK 1 Set DIESEL



126

Chaprter- 11

Compliance

127

Compliance

Compliance means conformity of certain standard. PPC maintain a moderate working conditionfor their employees. Though it is well established project, there is some lacking of propercompliance issues. Here is list of compliance in which some points are maintained fully andsome are partially.

Compensation for holiday Sexual harassment policy Child labor abolition policy Anti-Discrimination policy Zero abusement policy Working hour policy Hiring /recruitment policy Security policy Buyers code of conduct Health & safety committee Canteen National Festival holiday Weekly holiday fund Time care Overtime register Leave with wages

Health:

Drinking water at least 4.5 L/day/employee Cup availability Drinking water supply Drinking water signs in bangle & English locate min. 20 feet away from work place Drinking water vassal clean at once in a week Water center in charge person with cleanliness Suggestion box register

Toilet:

Separate toilet for women and men A seat with proper privacy and lock facility Effective water sewage system Soap toilet Water tap Dust bin Daily cleaning log sheet No-smoking signs Ladies/gents toilet signs both in bangle and English

128

Fire:

Sufficient fire extinguisher and active Access area without hindrance Fire signs in both languages Fire certified personal photo Emergency exit

Safety Guard:

Metal glows in good conditions Rubber mats & ironers First air box one First trained employees Eye guard Doctor Medicine Welfare officer

Others:

Room temperature Lighting facilities

129

Chapter- 11Conclusion

130

Conclusion:

The industrial training gives us the opportunity to work in mills. It is an experience

of normal academic learning,

This training gives us actual picture about man, machine, material, methods and

market. We have earned the direct knowledge about the raw materials, actual

running condition of the m/cs. Works technologist and administration.

This mill is a well planed with enough expansion facilities. There are wonderful

employer and worker relation. Working environment for the labors is also good.

During our training we visited knitting section, dyeing & finishing section,

garments section, store, maintenance, administration section etc. Everywhere we

got cordial behavior from all employees.

Above all this training for 60 days in the Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. has given us a

new experience for practical life.

Southeast University has given me the field to perform the industrial attachment

with Abanti Colour Tex Ltd. This attachment seems to me as a bridge to minimize

the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge. Undoubtedly, this attachment

paved us the way to learn more about Textile engineering, industrial practices, and

industrial management and production process.

Besides this attachment gave us the first opportunity to work in an Industry and

acquainted us with the internal sight and sound of Textile Industries. We believe

with all these, the experience of the industrial attachment will help our future life

as a Textile Engineer.

Industrial attachment of abanti colour tex ltd

Environment

employees of abanti

progress of abanti colour

industrial management

industrial atmosphere

practical attachment

sufficiant practical

hisher knowledge

vast theoretical knowledge