Horse journal may 2014 uploads

. . .Online

A PDF of all the articles uploaded to www.horse-journal.com in May 2014

Fly Mask Choices—3

Magnesium Supplementation—7

Ulcers in Horses—9

Barn Fire in Lexington KY—11

More Ticks in 2014—11

Keeping Our Trails Open - BCHA—11

Splints Happen—12

Longe Whip Techniques—13

Alltech Ends National Horse Show Support—13

Biosecurity in the Barn—14

How Safe is Your Horse’s Barn?—16

Did You Like The Rolex Kentucky Broadcast? We Did—17

Getting Hooked - Velcro Cleaners—18

The Best Equine Memorial—19

Media Critique: —20

Dressage for the Not-So-Perfect Horse—20

Comeback Challenge From “A Home for Every Horse”—20

Mosquito Activity—21

Doppler for Laminitis—21

Pitch Fork Decisions—22

SmartPak Acquired by Henry Schein Animal Health—22

Connecticut Legislature Passes Law that Horses Are Not Inherently Vicious—23

Questions Surround Compounded Drug Use—23

Wobble Boards - Who Knew?—24

For FREE! FEI’s Information on “Equestrian Sur-faces.” —24

Maybe It’s You—25

NBC News Addresses Equine Population—25

Their story is based on the latest USDA sur-vey.—25

Be Kind to the New Vets—26

California Chrome Can Run!—26

Beezie Madden Injured—26

Horse Too Thin?—26

Your Horse Trainer’s Program Needs to Suit Your Goals —27

Tildren Now Approved in the USA!—28

Low-Tech Arena Maintenance—29

Horse Bowl in the Olympics—29

Wear Riding Helmets——30

It’s How To “Mind Your Melon”—30

Horse Journal’s —31

OnCall Service—31

Trick Training—32

Devon Live on USEFNetwork—32

The Baucher Snaffle: —33

How Does It Work?—33

Equine Coronavirus (ECoV)—34

Errors in Veterinary Medications—35

My Three Examples Of Why You Can’t Train All Horses The Same Way—36

Promising New Therapy for Joint Problems—37

Fly Armor—38

Hoof Dressings—40

Table of ContentsHorse Journal Online

Uploads May 2014

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014 �

When it comes to fly masks, consider first what your priority is and what envi-

ronment your horse will be in:Will he be turned out in a herd?Will he wear it in his stall or standing in a stall? Will he wear it when being rid-den? Does he need protection for an eye condition or injury?Is he thin skinned and/or prone to skin irritation? Does he need protection of the lower nose due to sunburn or insect irritation?

Answers to these important ques-tions can eliminate some masks from your consideration.

WHaT’s NeW?The continued refinement of fly masks offers consumers more for their money. We’re seeing:

Shaped construction;Increased durability;Double eye darts;The use of more than one mate-rial in a mask.

We remember when Cashel Com-pany first released their Crusader fly mask, almost two decades ago, and revolutionized what we saw on the market with their shaped, multi-fabric and multi-length choices. Since that time, the Cru-sader has been a perennial favorite in our test barns.

But Shires and Centaur are chal-lenging their reign with additional interior padding on all the seams and zip off nose extension pieces.

We found these masks are luxuri-ant, and we appreciated their fine-weave mesh to make things more difficult for mosquitoes. Both com-panies have sizing charts and sizes ranging from mini to extra large.

However if you prefer a less-tai-lored mask – and some of us do – you’ll be interested in the choices from Bucas, Weatherbeeta and Absorbine. These are good choices

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Fly Mask ChoicesThe field is smaller but more competitive for top pick and Best Buy.

for horses that may resent the more fitted masks.

Of course, the Absorbine Ultra-Shield was one of the first “shape-less” masks. In the initial years, they tended to snag more easily than other masks, but that problem has long been fixed with a superior, stronger weave. It is a strong choice.

Both the Bucas and Weatherbeeta masks are also well made. Our horses seemed to keep them on, even in turnout groups. We found that less fleece and padding meant the masks were less messy, mucky and wet.

Another trend is toward extremely plush heavily padded masks. If your horse has sensitive skin and needs the protection consider Intrepid’s Charlie Bug-Off fly mask, Farnam’s Super Mask or Schneider Saddlery’s Mosquito Mesh fly mask. They all use heavy padding on the edging.

Intrepid’s mask uses a short nap fleece that does not hold dirt. Kens-ington also has the option of masks

with padding. However, the more padding the more opportunity to hold moisture and dirt, which may ultimately irritate the sensitive skin you’re trying to protect.

TOUgH as Nails MasksIf your horse will wear his fly mask in a playful herd you will need solid heavy-duty construction and good fit. This is a double-edged sword as heavier materials can cause rubs if not applied and fitted properly. Turnout horses get dirty and stay dirty longer. Fleece will hold dirt and moisture against the skin which could lead to issues.

Safety is important as a fly mask can get hung up on a fence or shed. Multiple hook-and-loop fasten-ers – single and double - increase the likelihood the mask may not release. No, it’s not fun to search for lost masks but it’s worse to think about what can happen if a horse gets hung up and cannot free him-self. A little elastic on the straps might give the horse a little give if he gets stuck. It doesn’t guarantee safety, but it might help.

We felt the most durable masks were from Kensington and Durvet. These masks proved extremely sturdy and held up under the toughest turnout conditions.

MediUM aNd ligHTWeigHT Masks Most of the masks in our trial wouldn’t hold up for the deter-mined fly mask destroyer in your herd but are fine for “normal” horses.

Our favorites here were from Cashel, Shires and Centaur. We know some folks shy away from Cashel Crusader masks because of the higher price, but we’ve found they usually last for many seasons (Farnam masks are also tradition-ally long-lasters).

Absorbine’s UltraShield fly mask improves each year. We like the catch loop and soft fleecy material on the mask underside. Because they use two single fasteners, we would consider the Absorbine mask one of the safer choices for horses who tend to get hung up on things. However, the downside is that their turnout buddies can pull open the

Weatherbeeta offers a mask with insect repellent in the material.

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©20144

Mask Price Comments

Cashel Crusaderwww.cashelcompany.com

$27.95-$31.95.Avail foal to draft and donkey and mini.

Perennial favorite. Heavy duty nylon. Double Velcro with elastic in strap. Fleece-covered binding. Eye darts. Soft mesh ears. Forelock hole in upper of mask. No center seam. Padding on interior seams. Some masks have reflective strips or bright patterns.. Also gives 5% of proceeds to support breast cancer awareness and animal rescue with certain masks in their line. Cashel also makes a riding fly mask.

Centaur Got Flies Dura Litewww.englishridingsupply.com

$23.95. Size chart avail. Mini-XL horse

Tailored and well designed. Fine black mosquito mesh. Generous eye darts. Double Velcro closure with elastic. Soft mesh ears. Padding on all interior seams. Zip off lower nose protector. Fleece binding. Company provides measurement chart for fit.

Shires Fine Mesh Fly Maskwww.shiresequestrian.com

$21.99. Avail size chart from Shires, small pony to extra full

Very well made mask. Fine mosquito nylon mesh over eyes. Eye darts. Two Velcro closures. Light fleece padding on binding. Close fit to help prevent flies from getting under mask. Shires provides measurement chart. Also available as mask with longer zip-off nose panel and a no-ears model (black only).

Bucas Buzz Off Fly Mask/ Regular and Zebra PrintToklat Originalswww.toklat.com

$25/$28 in Zebra. Avail XS-XL Floppy soft material. Fine tight weave mesh. Single strong Velcro with elastic. No eye darts. Web binding. Center seam. Ears same material as body of mask. Stayed on very well in the turnout herds. Runs a little large.

Professional’s Choice Fly Mask www.profchoice.com

$21.95 w/ ears. $18.95 without. Avail small horse/ cob or horse.

Very well made mask. Nylon metallic rip stop material. Single Velcro. No elastic. Eye darts. Soft mesh upper and ears. Fleece binding. Some interior seam padding. Performed well despite being light and flexible material. One of our favorites in hot weather testing.

Farnam SuperMask IIwww.farnamhorse.com

$15-$18 w/ears or w/out. Avail. Horse, Arabian, XLarge, Yearling, Foal and Mini.

Very durable. Perennial Horse Journal Favorite and former Best Buy. Double-latch closure. Eye darts. Fairly herd proof. Fleece trim. UV protection. Coverage of mask ends about mid face.

Absorbine UltraShield EX Fly Maskwww.absorbine.com

$14.99- $24.99. Avail small horse and horse

Fine black mosquito mesh Rip-Shield material. Two single Velcro straps that run long. Fleece lining on entire underside of jaw. Eye darts. Ears same material as body. Fleece binding. Padding on interior seams. No center seam. Catch loop for leading horse from mask without halter.

Kensington Fly Maskwww.kensingtonproducts.com

$21.95-26.95 Avail in mini to draft sizes with fleece or web edging.

Heavy-duty Texiline material. Double strong Velcro with elastic. Generous double eye darts and tailoring to fit head. Center seam. Available in fleece or web lined. 73% UV protection. Virtually indestructible. Perfect for rough-housing herds.

Intrepid Charlie Bug-Off Shield Fly Maskwww.intrepidintl.com

$23.39. Avail horse/ large horse / cob. Can also purchase mini version

Well designed and constructed. Double Velcro. Soft elastic throat strap. Eye darts/ stays sewn into the mask to keep mask front away from face and eyes. No center seam. Extremely plush padding. Very fine mosquito mesh/screen material. Back of ears in soft mesh. Ran a little small.

Farnam Super Maskwww.farnam.com

$22.47. Avail Arab/ Horse/ XL with ears. Avail mini/ foal/ yearling/ horse/ XL without ears

Heavy-duty nylon mesh. Strong double Velcro. Generous cut with eye darts. No center seam. Soft mesh ears. Plush mesh padding on edges. No interior padding on seams.

SmartPak Classic Fly Mask www.smartpak.com

$19.95/ Avail. cob and horse Heavy duty nylon mesh. Very wide strong single Velcro strap with pull tab to aid in opening. Eye darts. No center seam. Light fleece binding. Sort breathable mesh ears. Ran slightly large.

WeatherBeeta Supa-Fly IInsect Shield Fly Maskwww.weatherbeeta.com

$39.99. Cob, full Single strong and large touch-tape strap. No elastic. Floppy insect repellent-infused polyester mesh with eye darts and ear covers. No center seam. No padding. Web binding. Stayed on well in turnout. Repellent lasts through 25 washings.

SYR Vet Horse Sense Fly Maskwww.syrvet.com

$ 10.50. Avail mini to draft. Heavy duty Nylon mesh. Generous eye darts and very full fit. Soft mesh ears. Single Velcro closure with elastic. Center seam. No interior padding. Web binding. Low priced budget choice.

$ DurVet DuraMask Equine Fly Maskwww.durvet.com

$12.95-$18.95. Avail pony/yearling/Arabian/horse/ XL/ XXL or draft.

Double Velcro/ strong. No elastic. Light fleece around edge. Heavy duty mesh. Ears finer mesh. Eye darts. No center seam. Name tag label. Ran slightly large. Excellent choice for horses that are tough on their fly masks. Sizing worked; the draft size fit our draft horse well.

SS Tack Mosquito Meshwww.sstack.com $19.95. Avail cob/ full.

Fine blue mosquito mesh. 60% UV protection. Full fit with generous fleece padding. Single Velcro. Center seam Eye darts. Soft mesh ears. Fleece over headstall. Well constructed mask at a good price.

Cavallo Simple Ride Maskwww.cavallo-inc.com

$19.95 Avail sm/md/lg Nylon mesh mask that Velcroes to front of bridle while riding. Available with and without ears. Easy to apply and remove. UV protection and good vision through mask. May be good choice for uveitis cases where eye protection is needed all the time.

Turnout Fly Masks Horse Journal Editor’s Choice $ Horse Journal Best Buy

http://www.cashelcompany.com

http://www.englishridingsupply.com

http://www.shiresequestrian.com

http://www.toklat.com

http://www.prochoice.com

http://www.absorbine.com

http://www.interpidintl.com

http://www.farnam.com

http://www.smartpak.com

http://www.weatherbeeta.com

http://www.syrvet.com

http://www.durvet.com

http://www.sstack.com

http://www.cavallo-inc.com


Fly Mask Usage TipsIntroduction: When introducing a fly mask to a young or unsure horse leave mask hanging above their feed tub for a day or two. The contact with the mask and having to put their head beneath it will make life easier when you apply mask.

If they’re especially ear shy, choose a product without ears. Most horses will initially accept a mask while eating grain. Sometimes a wide single ear hole across the pole can decrease the chance of you bending an ear, which is upsetting to them.

Placement: Fly masks stay on best when used UNDER the halter. We use leather halters or breakaway halters, so turning out in them isn’t a problem with the day turnout horses.

Style: Horses on 24-7 turnout seem to do best in the floppy less fitted masks, like the Absorbine UltraShield. Carefully check straps to ensure they don’t come into contact with underside of chin or jowl. The action of chewing while grazing will cause a tight or poor fitting mask to leave a raw hairless mark. Heavily padded masks tend to get soiled quickly and contribute to rubs.

Eyesight: When leading horses into a barn with a fly mask allow them a moment to acclimate or else remove mask as you enter aisle. A horse’s eyes take time to adjust to large shifts in sunlight and going from bright light to semi lit barn aisle. The horse is nearly blind that first step. Help him out and pull the mask off.

Fly mask fit and eye clearance is important! Look at the mask on the horse’s head. How much room is there between the eye, the lashes and the mask? Because the masks are a weave a horse’s lashes will stick right through and it can cause significant irrita-tion, which can lead to bigger problems.

Rubs and Rubbing: Watch your horse’s behavior. If he spends all his time rubbing it on anything in sight, try a different mask. If this behavior continues, it might be wise to skip the fly mask all together before he gets injured trying to evade the mask.

Keep the fly masks clean, especially in mud season. We do mul-tiple masks by placing them in a muck tub full of hot water and mild detergent (check mask tag for info) after hosing the mud off. Slosh them around with a broom to agitate away any tough dirt and then dump muck tub and rinse. Hang to dry.

Riding in Fly Masks: The Cavallo Simple Ride Mask is a good choice for riding. It is a nylon mesh fly mask made specifically for use over a bridle. Hook-and-loop tabs attach the mask to cheek pieces and to the headstall.

We found it a perfect choice for light trail riding over non techni-cal terrain and for ring work. We loved the mask for our uveitis patient as it allowed us to leave the mask right on the bridle so it would never be forgotten. It’s about $20, with or without ears.

Cashel also makes a regular fly mask in a lighter mesh for riding, if you prefer a mask with full-face coverage when you ride. The mesh is lighter and the fit is conformed to the horse’s head, and it looks nice. We’ve used them for years without any difficulties.

straps easily and remove the mask. One other note on these: They

ship in plastic tubes. We found it can affect fit initially. We just hose them down and let them hang dry before using them. All the creases just disappear.

Fly Masks aNd visibiliTyAll masks obscure a horse’s vision to some degree and, depending on the weave and material, that may be significant. Add in dirt from turn-out and/or rain and it may become even worse.

One of our biggest frustrations is that few manufacturers give UV protection or visibility percentages. When you hold up different masks and look directly through them the variability is startling. It would be much easier if they were labeled by the makers. (Note: If you’re choos-ing a mask for a uveitis case you want the highest degree of UV pro-tection and decreased light getting to the eyes. The Guardian Horse Mask is your choice for uveitis. Go to www.horsemask.com.)

Many people worry about vision impairment when you ride with a fly mask on. This is why we would avoid riding in anything except a mask specifically designed for riding. Even then, jumping and other activities that depend on the horse’s ability to determine depth may be seriously impaired by the use of any mask. Caution should be exercised.

lOTs OF TlCDon’t leave fly masks on your horse 24/7. We know it’s easier, but the risk is too great. For one thing, impaired night vision can lead to accidents if a horse is startled and runs into a solid object or building. Some cases sadly ended in death.

And, when the horses live in fly masks, you may miss seeing an eye or head injury. One of the worst things that can happen with an eye injury is a delay in treatment.

In addition – and this is no small matter – flies and bees have been found inside fly masks, unable to find their way out.

If you see your horse acting un-usual, get out there and pull off that fly mask! Sometimes insects make

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014�

Most masks, like these from Professional’s Choice, can be chosen with ears (bottom) or without ears. We prefer ears.

their ways to the ear tips, annoying the horse like crazy. Other times, they just crawl around, sometimes stinging. Some horse owners have actually given up fly masks for this reason.

We strongly recommend a horse be checked minimum once a day by removing the mask and looking at both eyes, ears and the head. It will save a lot of trouble and time if you do catch an injury early.

bOTTOM liNeIt was a tough choice for top pick, as this is a strong group of products. It was neck to neck between Centaur’s Got Flies mask and Cashel’s Cru-sader masks. But, ultimately, the durability of the Cashel product along with their commitment to helping charities like horse rescues and Breast Cancer Awareness gave them our top spot. (Well, we also like that they make a donkey fly mask as well.)

Cashel has continued to improve the product each year and added great patterns and colors into the line.

That said, Centaur, which is from powerhouse manufacturer English Riding Supply, set the bar high for innovative use of materials and the tailoring of their product. The luxurious feel and soft weave made the product one we look forward to using again.

For a Best Buy, it’s Durvet, nar-rowly knocking Farnam out of that slot. Durvet produces a heavy-duty turnout fly mask at an almost un-beatable price.

For 24/7 turnout, we choose Ab-sorbine UltraShield mask, which is a loose, durable mask that we think is best for horses who are constant-ly wearing a fly mask.

Article by Contributing Writer Beth Hyman.

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014 7

Horses tend to respond well to large amounts of supplemen-tal magnesium. It’s a good

mineral to be consider as a supple-ment for “nervousness” and cresty-necked horses, easy keepers (aka metabolic syndrome horses) and actual insulin-resistant horses.

For nervous horses, it’s often found in combination with thiamine (vita-min B1), as a deficiency in thiamine can also cause a jittery horse. Of course, adding magnesium and/or thiamine to a nervous horse’s diet will only show results if the horse is deficient in these minerals.

They are filling dietary gaps that caused the nervousness. Giving these products to a “jumpy” horses who has no physical need for them isn’t likely to make a difference. Those horses may have a training problem and/or a mental “deficien-cy” of some type, best addressed by a good trainer.

Actually, that’s why you hear calming products “do” work from some folks and “don’t” work from others. It’s related to the horse’s diet. Sure, you can experiment and give these to your nervous horse, but if you don’t see a result, that could be why.

But for overweight horses, magne-sium is well worth trying. As stated, most hays are low in magnesium anyway, and you may see a physical difference, usually beginning with that cresty neck. Plus, it’s a low-cost option. It can’t hurt to consult your veterinarian or an equine nutri-tionist here, though, because they may be able to help you achieve an optimal diet.

TriCks OF THe TradeMagnesium needs to be balanced with calcium. Because calcium competes with magnesium for absorption, the magnesium content should be at least half that of calci-um. However, hay grown in areas of acidic or clay soils are typically low in magnesium. Compound this with

Some magnesium use the word “calm” in the title, but they’re fine for cresty necks, too.

Magnesium supplementationYou’ve heard it’s good for cresty necks, but how much do you give?

low bioavailability, and your equine friend may be getting just enough to prevent a full-blown deficiency but may not have quite enough to main-tain normal hormonal and nervous system functioning.

Magnesium found in forages and feedstuffs is absorbed at only 40 to 60 percent. Because of this, forms such as magnesium oxide, citrate, proteinate, carbonate, and sulfate have a higher absorption rate (70%) than magnesium consumed from natural sources. To help with re-gional fat deposits, supplementing magnesium is a good idea. A 2:1 ratio of Ca:Mg is appropriate and it can be as high as 1:1.

Consider this example: Your hay contains 0.32% magnesium and 0.71% calcium. Twenty pounds provides 29.1 grams of magnesium (20 lb x 454 g/lb x .0032) and 64.5 grams of calcium (20 lbs x 454 g/lb x .0071). Assume that only 50% of the magnesium from your hay is ab-sorbed; therefore, only 14.6 grams of magnesium is provided by this hay. Supplement magnesium to bring the Ca:Mg ratio to 2:1. So in this example, you should supplement an additional 18 grams (rounded up from 17.6 g) of magnesium. (Be sure to take other sources of calcium and magnesium into consideration.)

Obviously, it’s best to test your hay before supplementing magnesium. If this is not feasible, offer a full-sized horse (1100 lbs or 500 kg) a more conservative amount, say 10 grams per day. Continue supplementing until you see the fat pads start to diminish (this can take several months); then reduce the amount of magnesium by half as a mainte-nance dose.

Magnesium supplements are read-ily available, either as the indi-vidual mineral or often combined with chromium (when the product is targeting metabolic issues). When supplementing magnesium, keep in mind that the dosing will vary depending on the form used.

In order of concentration, here are the most commonly supplemented forms of magnesium:

Magnesium oxide - 56.2% magne-sium (very bitter)

Magnesium carbonate – 28.8% magnesium (well tolerated)

Magnesium aspartate – 20% (ami-no acid chelate; highly bioavailble)

Magnesium malate - 15% (occurs naturally in fruits, grains and nuts)

Magnesium citrate – 11% magne-sium (better tasting)

Magnesium proteinate – 10 % mag-nesium (amino acid chelate; highly bioavailable)

Magnesium sulfate – 9% mag-nesium (Epsom salts – significant laxative effect)

bOTTOM liNeYou have a lot go gain and little to use by trying supplemental mag-nesium to help your overweight, cresty-necked horse. You still have to practice good management, of course, sticking with a low- or no-grain diet (feed all hay, hay pellets),


minimizing access to grass if neces-sary (put them in a dry lot, sparsely grass paddock or barn for part of the day), and being sure to institute a regular exercise program (even if it’s only taking the horse for a hand walk for 30 minutes once or twice a day).

Try 10 grams of magnesium and give it 30 to 90 days to see results. It’s not a huge shrinking, of course, but you’ll note the crest doesn’t feel as thick and stiff to your touch and you’ll see “fat pads” on the horse’s body shrink. Once your horse looks good, you can try feeding 5 grams per day, upping gradually back to 10, if necessary.

Powder is the least expensive way to go and the magnesium descrip-tions above can help you choose the right one (magnesium carbonate is popular). Choose a pellet formula for horses not receiving any grain that will allow you to mix in the powder. Our chart includes prod-ucts we think are good choices to consider.

Coming soon: Managing your insu-lin-resisant horse.

Product Form TotalMagnesiumper serving

Cost

Magnesium Oxide 58%www.uckele.com

Powder 2320 mg $9.95/2 lbs.Cost per serving 3¢

Magnesium 5000www.medvetpharm.com

Pellet 5000 mg $34.45/10 lb.Cost per serving 41¢

Magnesium 3000www.medvetpharm.com

Powder 3000 mg $21.45/5 lb.Cost per serving 27¢

MagRestorewww.performanceequineusa.com

Powder or pellet 10,000 mg $15.99/45 servings powderCost per serving 35¢$21.99/45 servings pelletCost per serving 48¢

Quiessencewww.foxdenequine.com

Pellet (also contains chromium)

8,000 mg $21.99/45 servings pelletCost per serving 48¢

Magnesium Carbonatewww.horsetech.com

Powder 2,500 mg $21.95/1.1 kilogramsCost per serving 5¢

Magnesium Citratewww.platinumperformance.com

Powder 1,750 mg $38/1 lb.Cost per serving 92¢

MG-5+CRwww.horsetech.com

Powder (also contains chromium and B vitamins)

5,000 mg $31.95/5 lbs.Cost per serving 99¢

Grand Calmwww.grandmeadows.com

Pellets (also contains thiamine and theanine)

6,000 mg $55.95/80 servingsCost per serving 69¢

There are many horse supplements that contain magnesium. We have limited our information here to the products that are primar-ily magnesium. Be aware that magnesium is considered a “calming” ingredient, usually combined with thiamine, so some supplements do promote that aspect. The decision on whether your horse should or should not consume the additional ingredients should be made with the help of your veterinarian.

good Magnesium supplement Choices

http://www.uckele.com


Ulcers in Horses

Ulcers are now considered a fairly common problem among horses. Fortunately,

there are plenty of things that you can do to manage them.

First, let’s discuss symptoms of ulcers:

• Recurrent colic • Behavioral issues • Girthiness • Runny feces• Recurrent colic • Behavioral issues • Girthiness • Runny fecesHorses get ulcers for a variety

for reasons, but stress is a leading cause. (Yes, we said “stress.”)

Whether we like to believe it or not, horses likely experience stress more often than we realize. Here are common scenarios associated with potentially ulcer-causing stress:

Trailering ShowingIntense TrainingStable confinement“Boot Camp” training sessions

•••••

Cushing’s Horse Owners BewareDid you know that horses with Cushing’s disease are very likely to have gastric ulcers? It’s true.

Horses with Cushing’s disease have uncontrolled adrenal gland func-tion. Adrenal glands secrete the hormones cortisol and adrenaline, both of which activate the “fight or flight” stress response. One physi-ologic change that takes place when this release of hormones occurs is a decrease in blood flow to the stomach wall. Since horses with Cushing’s disease constantly live under these physiologic circumstanc-es, gastric ulcers are a common occurrence among them.

CribbingDoes your horse crib? If so, you may want to look for gastric ulcers because there is a positive correlation between cribbing and gastric ulceration. Ulcers are known to be a continually painful condition, so naturally, many horses that suffer from them have learned how to self- medicate. Cribbing causes an endorphin release that makes the horse feel good. The endorphins can dull the relentless pain of the ulcers. Unfortunately, if you find that your cribber has ulcers, treating the ulcers is unlikely to stop the cribbing.

Note the painful-looking ulcer on a horse’s stomach wall. Photo courtesy Egusin (www.egusin.com).

We need to address these painful lesions.

Losing a pasture palHorses with Cushing’s diseaseMoving to a new homeChanges in barn matesUnpredictable feeding timesHaving to live without compan-ionship Visits from the veterinarian and/or farrierAnything that makes them spookAny deviation from “routine.”

Medicine, too, cal be a problem. When a horse is given non-steroi-dal anti-inflammatory medications (NSAIDS such as bute or banamine) for a prolonged period of time, ul-cers may occur. NSAIDS, as one of their mechanisms of action, cause the blood vessels that feed the stomach wall to constrict. When the blood vessels constrict, less oxygen and nutrients to the stom-ach wall are available to regenerate the stomach lining.

Estimates of ulcer prevalence are 25 to 50% in foals and 60 to 90% in adult horses depending on age and performance level! Broodmares,

••••••

•

•

•racehorses, and horses in intense competitive training show the high-est ulcer prevalence among adults. Basically, if you walk a horse up to a veterinarian and ask if it has ulcers, the veterinarian would be betting with the house if he or she responds, “Yes.”

One important thing to remember about gastric ulcers is that they are not all created equal. Ulcers are scored on a scale of 0 to 4, with 0 representing a basically normal-looking stomach wall and 4 repre-senting severe ulceration that cre-ates deep abrasions in the stomach wall.

Unfortunately, confirming the diagnosis of gastric ulcers can be just as much a pain in the gut as the ulcers themselves. No matter which way you go, diagnosis can be expensive and sometimes time consuming.

The gold standard for gastric ulcer diagnosis is gastroscopy. This procedure must be completed by a veterinarian and, in order for it to be done properly, the horse must be held off of feed for 12 to 24 hours prior. During scoping, the horse is sedated and a nine-foot long tube with a camera on the end of it is in-serted into the stomach through the nasal passage. This procedure usu-ally costs between $300 and $500.

Although not as thorough as scoping, many horse owners have “backed into” the diagnosis of gastric ulcers by prophylactically administering medication to their horse and then looking for a re-sponse.


Name Amount Times Per Day Cost

*Gastrogard Paste (prescription) ½ to 1 tube Once daily $33 to $50

*UlcerGard (over-the-counter Gastrogard) 1/4 to 1/2 tube Once daily $9.75/dose ($39/tube)

Ranitidine tablets 17 to 33 tablets 3 to 6 times per 24 hours $25/500 tablets

Tums 10 to 15 tablets 3 to 6 times daily $7/160 tablets

Mylanta tabs 10 to 15 tablets 3 to 4 times daily $9/24 tablets

Mylanta liquid 10 to 15 tablespoons 3 to 4 times daily $9/12 oz.

*UlcerGard and Gastrogard, both from Merial, contain the same active ingredient, omeprazole, in the same strength. The only difference is the label instructions. Gastrogard is approved for the treatment of ulcers, which means a veterinarian has examined the horse, made a diagnosis and prescribed the treatment. UlcerGard is recommended for prevention. Both are the only FDA-approved equine ulcer treatments available.

Pharmaceutical Ulcer Treatments (use at the direction of your veterinarian)

Name Amount Times Per Day Cost Comments

Aloe Vera JuiceGeneric juice for humans

1 cup Once daily $8/gallon or 50¢ per day Fairly well studied for ulcer therapy. Liquid.

Chewable papaya pillsGeneric tablet for humans

8 to 12 tablets Twice daily $15/360 tablets or about 50¢ per day

Anecdotal evidence is strong. Tablets.

Egusin SLHwww.egusin.com, 800-236-6180

1 scoop 2 times per day for 21 days

$149 for a 21-day supply or $7.09 per day

Includes antacids, lecithin, pectin, and fiber. Pellets.

Natural Plan Stomach Sootherwww.stomachsoother.com, 847-579-1051

2 ounces Twice daily $26/64 oz. or 81¢ per day Papaya puree. Palatable. Liquid.

Neigh-Loxwww.kppusa.com, 800-772-1988

2 to 4 ounces Twice daily $35/4 lbs. or $5 per day Coating aluminum proprietary formula. Powder.

Nu-Pro Ulcer-Plexwww.multivetusa.com, 800-356-8776

1 to 2 ounces Twice daily $69/1 gallon or $1.08 to $2.16 per day

Magnesium, aloe vera and other ingredients. Powder.

Platinum Gastric Supportwww.platinumperformance.com, 800-553-2400

15 to 30 grams Twice daily for 2 to 4 weeks

$88/30 servings or $5.86 per day

Lactobacillus delbrueckii, probiotics, whey. Powder.

Pro CMCwww.absorbine.com, 800-628-9653

1 ounce Once daily $45/64 oz. or 70¢ per day Pink formula with calcium and magnesium. Liquid.

Smart Gut Pelletswww.smartpakequine.com, 888-773-2716

60 grams (about 2 ounces)

Once daily $39.95/3.75 lbs. or $1.43 per day

Calcium, magnesium, probiotics. Pleasant aroma. Palatable. Liquid.

Soybean OilGeneric for humans

1 cup Once daily $11/gallon or 68¢ per day Improves digestive health. Liquid.

U-Gard Pelletswww.cortaflex.com, 866-378-8383

1 ounce Twice daily $44.95/32-day supply or $1.41 per day

Calcium, magnesium, pectin. Palatable. Pellets.

Non-Pharmaceutical Ulcer Treatments

While this sounds like a strange way of making a diagnosis, it’s re-ally quite amazing how horses can “tell” owners that they are on the right track with treatment. Usually, the behaviors that caused the owner and the veterinarian to raise an eye-brow about gastric ulcers in the first place will lessen or disappear when the treatment starts to work.

If a horse owner decides to opt for experimental use of anti-ulcer

medication, the next step is deter-mining which treatment to use. There are several options, and it is wise to ask your veterinarian which medication, or combination of medications, he or she thinks would be right for your horse. Not to worry though, they won’t hurt your horse if you use them and your horse doesn’t have ulcers.

By far and away, the gold stan-dard for treating gastric ulcers is

Gastrogard (Merial). Gastrogard is omeprazole in a paste form, which is administered once daily. It acts to shut off the proton pumps in the stomach that create stomach acid. Study after study has shown that one tube of Gastrogard per day for 28 days will reduce ulcer scores. The downside? One tube of Gastro-gard will set you back $33 to $50.

Many veterinarians recommend trying the medication for 10 to 14


veTeriNary Care

days because the majority of horses will show some response by then. Other veterinarians try to use ½ of a tube per day while some will combine Gastrogard with other medications. This article isn’t intended to tell you how to treat your horse for gastric ulcers. That’s up to you and your veterinarian. Frankly, each case is different so no one single approach will work on every horse.

However, our charts may help you decide if certain medications can work better for them than others based on cost, the number of times per day they must be given and how much should be administered. The first chart is pharmaceutical medi-cations to be used per your veteri-narian, and the second table shows several over-the-counter options we like.

PreveNTiON sTraTegyHere are some popular management strategies to minimize the forma-tion of gastric ulcers in horses:

Feed small, frequent meals to help keep stomach acid concen-tration low.Add beet pulp and alfalfa to the diet because they are high in protein and pectin. Both have been shown to buffer stomach acid.Increase hay portion of diet since bulk feeds can neutralize stomach acids.Decrease concentrates such as grain because grain is acidic and less bulky foods enable stomach acid to concentrate.House your horse with pals or at least make sure that he can see other horses. This will de-crease psychological stress.Turn your horse out as much as possible since horses in confined housing is a prevalent findings in ulcer horses.When trailering or showing, consider use of an ulcer preven-tative since these activities are strongly linked to ulcers.If NSAIDS must be used, do so with gastroprotectants and use as little as possible. Consider using firocoxib, a NSAID devel-oped to minimize alterations in gastric blood flow.

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bOTTOM liNe. Although the task of managing gastric ulcers in your horse can be daunting, the benefits are price-less. If you have even the slightest suspicion that your horse may be affected by gastric ulcers, consult your veterinarian ASAP.

Article by Contributing Veterinary Editor Grant Miller. DVM.

Do you enjoy riding on U.S. Forest Service trails? Did you know it takes more dollars to keep trails maintained and open for use than are available? A huge gap exists between what is maintained and

what is needed. The Back Country Horsemen of America (BCHA) has a “Keeping Trails for You” crowdfunding effort underway. They generated $22K (45%) within the first nine days. Campaign page.

“Maintaining trails on 500 million acres of public lands is a massive ef-fort. BCHA leaders work hard to prioritize and coordinate national efforts to keep trails open and accessible. Leaders at BCHA work with other trails interest groups as well as federal agencies on behalf of trail users through-out the United States. We can’t do it without other trail user organizations and we can’t do it without your help,” explains the BCHA.

keeping Our Trails Open - bCHa

The horrible winter so many of us went through was actually great - if you were a tick, that

is. Turns out that the lasting snow cover provided insulation to the ticks. We’re being warned about a bumper crop of ticks for 2014 - and earlier than ever. Many subscribers have reported already finding ticks on their horses, dogs and them-

More Ticks in 2014selves.

For more information on control and protection, see our story on ticks.

You can also download the CDC’s pamphlet on tickborne illnesses, which was updated in 2014.

Remember, Lyme disease is a big problem in horses, and it’s transmit-ted by deer ticks.\

barn Fire in lexington kyTrainer couldn’t get all the horses out.

Horrible barn fire in Lexington. http://www.wkyt.com/home/head-lines/Horses-killed-in-Lexington-barn-fire-258584661.html


I was surprised this past weekend when one of my patients present-ed with a splint on her hind leg.

I was not surprised that a splint had occurred, but surprised that my cli-ent had no idea what a splint was! Most learning in the horse world seems to take place in the School of Hard Knocks; therefore each horse owner’s education is drastically different depending on the various lumps that each of us has taken during our horsey adventures. For some of us, the lump that makes up a splint is something new.

Splints can occur in the cannon bone region of all four limbs, on both the outside and the inside of the leg. Remember, the cannon bones are the ones between the car-pus (a.k.a “knee”) and the fetlock on the front leg and between the hock and the fetlock on the hind leg. The splint itself is actually a result of damage to a non-essential

splints Happen

A fresh splint on the hind limb.

Splint bone, interosseous ligament and cannon bone.

Early detection and basic antiinflammatory treatment make splints just a bump in the road.

ligament called the interosseous ligament. These ligaments glue the splint bones to the sides of the can-non bone. If the horse has an exces-sive impact such as kicking a fence or landing hard on the leg, the liga-ment can tear. The body addresses this by filling the torn area in with calcium mineralization. Once this hardens, it becomes a sort of cement patch to stabilize the area. We call these “splints.”

Mature splints are hard, irregular lumps that protrude off the sides of the cannon bone. They are gener-ally unchanging and non-reactive when touched. It is quite com-mon for horses to get splints on the inside of their front cannon bone regions, but as mentioned, they can occur on both sides of any of the cannon bones. Very few middle-aged/ geriatric horses have legs that are entirely free of splints.

In the early stages when a horse first “pops” a splint - the area will be soft, fluctuant (movable and compressible), hot and painful. It is crucial at this stage to identify the problem as a splint, since failure to treat splints can result in longer term lameness and more serious issues. In general, treatment of a splint involves the cornerstones of anti-inflammatory therapy:

1. Rest: The horse should be stall rested/hand walked for about 10 to 14 days to give the splint a chance to calcify. Sometimes it takes longer, depending on the size of the interosseous ligament tear. Your veterinarian can direct you on an exact course.

2. Ice: Cold therapy helps to re-duce inflammation and sooth pain.

3. Anti-inflammatory therapy: Feeding bute or firocoxib for 5 to 7 days is often recommended by veterinarians. Anti-inflammatory medications help to reduce swell-ing, edema, heat and pain. Many

have also used topical Surpass (di-clofenac) cream to assist in reduc-ing inflammation. Another popular treatment is DMSO gel applied topi-cally- but beware since it can cause skin reactions in some horses!

In addition to these hallmark therapies, folks will often wrap the leg with a standing wrap to help re-duce swelling and shield the splint from any further injury.

By and large, splints really are not considered to be a big deal. They are usually noted as incidental findings on prepurchase exams, and rarely do they result in ongoing lameness.

bOTTOM liNeCorrect detection and early inter-vention keep splints from becoming major issues. If you suspect your horse may have popped a splint- rest, ice and anti-inflammatories given at the direction of your vet-erinarian should solve the problem within a couple of weeks.

Contributing Veterinary Editor Dr. Grant Miller

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014 1�

With a weekend off from shows (shocking in

May), on Saturday I in-dulged a long-held desire to try fly fishing, especial-ly since a local chapter of Trout Unlimited was offering an all-day course at a local park. Tryon being a horsey capital, there was a three-ring hunter show right next door (cutting into our field for casting practice), but I mostly kept my eyes where they belonged. But I couldn’t keep my mind from swirling around the similarities between fly casting and longeing, and I even picked up some ideas to improve my longeing technique.

For example, when I got a pop of sound, my fishing coach said it was because my line wasn’t fully extended on the back cast and still curling forward at the end when I brought it forward. And, when I got a knot in my leader (annoy-ing in a longe line, but a breaking point in a fishing leader and thus a much more serious matter) it was because I again hadn’t allowed the cast to fully extend behind me or I had allowed the line to pool on the ground behind me.

Huh, I thought, would the same thing apply to longeing? A fly fishing pole is much lighter than a longe whip and the line much thinner, but the arm mechanics are similar. One difference is that you mainly cast overhead while fishing (you wouldn’t want to do that with a longe whip unless you want the whip to snap the top of the horse’s back!), while you mainly cast side arm when longeing. We were admonished to keep the upper arm near near the body and do most of the action with the lower arm, keeping the wrist stiff. I found that

A day spent fly fishing helps hone longe whip techniques.

longe Whip Techniques

lower-arm mechanic to both have better control than if my arm was extended and to be less tiring.

I could hardly wait to try the same techniques with my longe whips at the barn Sunday. I have both a telescoping Fleck longe whip with a long leather lash and a traditional one-piece nylon braided whip, and I tried both. The fly casting tech-nique worked better with the Fleck – no surprise there since it’s closer in weight and construction to a fly rod – but it also worked with the one-piece whip.

I know some people like to pop

their longe whip, but I was taught not to do that – rather to cast steadily toward the horse’s hind leg and if I needed a bit of emphasis to flick the tip at a hock rather than to crack the whip. Since a pop

is basically the tip of the whip breaking the speed of sound, it makes sense that allowing the lash to fully extend would reduce some of the speed there and thus the likelihood of a pop. It worked just that way. When I started the whip back while it still had curl, I got a pop, but when I got a steady rhythm and allowed it to extend – with a brief pause as instructed by the fly cast-ing coach – there was no pop and I had overall better control of where the tip ended up.

And, sure enough, when I brought the whip forward while the tip was still

curled, or if I let it puddle behind me, I got knots near the end, which was much more annoying and harder to release with the leather lash than with the braided nylon lash. I found I could replicate all the instructions from the overhead fly cast to the side arm longe cast, including the part about keeping the upper arm close to my side. Again, holding the heavier longe whip that way was much less tiring than letting the arm extend.

So, fly fishing school actually turned out to be horsemanship school. Who would have guessed?!

Associate Editor Magaret Freeman

Fly fishing improved my whip technique while longeing my horse.

alltech ends National Horse show support

Alltech ends its sponsorship of the National Horse Show, reported by Kentucky.com.


We’ve all seen the pictures online . . . the ones with horses and a frantic beg-

ging for a home. And, the moment you see those eyes, well, you want to help save the horse.

What most people don’t think about is where that horse is com-ing from. Almost all of the “save us now” horses that have pictures circulating online are either in bro-ker lots or in auction houses. Stress, travel and high concentrations of horses in small areas create the perfect storm that can lead to a sick horse. But those big brown eyes . . . next thing you know, that horse is standing in your barn and you just played Russian roulette with the health of your entire barn.

MINIMIZE RISK. The staff at the SquirrelWood Equine Sanctuary in Montgomery, N.Y., has perfected the art of rescuing auction horses, using strong quarantine procedures that assure the health of the herd. Yes, it’s a major headache, actually,

biosecurity in the barnNew horse arrivals should be quarantined.

outbreaks that have been happening around the country for the past few years. Biosecurity is biosecurity. It doesn’t matter if you’re keeping an auction horse in quarantine, receiv-ing a new arrival from a show barn or traveling from show to show.

Special Note on Strangles: One of the most common infec-

tions brought into barns by new horses is strangles (streptococcus equi bacteria). A horse may not even show symptoms, but he could still be carrying the disease. So, as-ymptomatic horses are tested before they leave quarantine.

If the horse becomes symptomatic, its care and treatment will be deter-mined by your veterinarian, as will the horse’s release from quarantine protocol.

Approximately 30 days after the horse’s symptoms have resolved, we do three nasal swabs one week apart. All three must be clean to release the horse from quarantine.

If symptoms show up again, you restart the clock. It can be a long, frustrating process. But skipping the testing process could result in an outbreak. Strangles carriers can shed the Step Equi organism for months, sometimes intermittently for years.

KEEP DIRTY IN ITS PLACE. Consider that the average horse can send droplets flying more than 15 feet when he sneezes or coughs. While recommendations vary on the quarantine distance from other animals, we consider 40 feet mini-mum. Anyone that enters into that area, even if they don’t touch the horse, is now dirty. They can’t re-turn to the clean areas without the risk of carrying disease with them.

A quarantine setup has standard components, based on what can carry disease out of the dirty area.

1. Feet. Your feet go all over the area in the process of caring for the animal, even if it’s a quick check. Think foot baths, boot covers or separate shoes.

2. Hands. If you touch anything within the perimeter you now can carry disease back to the clean areas. That means tight-fitting medical latex or vinyl gloves, hand sanitizer, soap and water.

3. Clothes. We mean disposable

Setting up a quarantine area is a lot of work, but much less than caring for sick horses.

Consider This . . . Wash your hands often and thoroughly. Hands are perhaps the No. 1 mode of disease spread in barns or at shows. Hand sanitizers are fine, but soap and water is best, if you have it.

Stay on top of fly and rodent control. These creatures can really spread disease.

Feed/clean quarantined horses last, and never use the same cart for feed and manure (yes, some folks do this).

All signs should be in English and in Spanish.

A quarantine can change dramatically depending on circumstances, vaccine status, age, immune competency of the horses involved. All quarantines (or at least barn quarantine protocols) should be “vetted” by a vet!

It’s critical to remember that disinfectants are ineffective on organic material. They can only be applied to CLEAN surfaces that are free of organic debris.

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with a lot of extra work. But, it’s less work than if an outbreak.

Before you think this isn’t for you, remember the current equine her-pes virus (EHV1) and its potentially deadly neurologic form, Herpesvi-rus Myeloencephalopathy (EHM)


quarantine gowns or separate clothes, such as coveralls.

4. Equipment. Anything that is within that quarantine perimeter is dirty. Wheelbarrows, muck tubs, brooms, pitchforks, tack, brushes, sponges, hoof picks, ointments, fly sprays, medications, hoses and noz-zles . . . anything that goes into the quarantine area doesn’t come out without a complete disinfection.

SET-UP.Now’s the time to develop a writ-

ten biosecurity protocol you can implement immediately, if neces-sary. The procedures should be understandable to all staff, includ-ing translated versions (such as Spanish), if needed. See sidebar on supplies: Please click here.

Mark the area with clear entry/exit points. Mark all equipment, brushes, and hoses with an easily noticeable marking, such as with bright pink or neon green duct tape. Place large, noticeable signs at each entrance. Run a chain or marking tape across each entrance opening, unless it has a solid door.

Place a foot bath at each entrance. Be sure there are latex gloves, hand sanitizer and a hook for clothing changes. Two plastic bins with lids for soiled quarantine area items should be placed next to the foot bath. Just before the horse arrives, hose, scrub and disinfect surfaces.

NEW HORSE ARRIVAL. When your new horse arrives, the proce-dures will become routine. Upon entering quarantine area, you will:

1. Put on two pairs of gloves.2. Don your coveralls or gown.3. Change your shoes or put boo-

ties over them.4. Spray bottoms of shoes/booties.You can now enter the horse area.Remember, when dealing with a

quarantined animal, keep contact to a minimum. Do what you need to do, and get out.

Upon leaving the quarantine area, you will:

1. Remove clothes/gown and place into plastic bin, or hang on hooks.

2. Remove shoes or booties while standing beside footbath.

3. Remove outer set of latex gloves.4. Step through footbath while

making sure entire tread of boot/ shoe is submerged.

Recommended Quarantine ProductsDifferent disinfectants are effective against certain organisms, so it’s important to select one with a broad spectrum of activity against viruses, fungus, and bacteria. It must also hold up well under the barn environment.

Most people reach for the cheapest alternative, good old chlorine bleach, like Clorox. Chlorine bleach kills a host of organisms, but it doesn’t do well in dirty environments. Therefore, each time a chlorine-bleach footbath gets contaminated with dirt and not re-placed, you’ve got an open door for a break in quarantine.

There are better options. DuPont Virkon S (about $35/50 tablets or $85/10 lbs.), Pfizer Roccal D ($125/gal-lon), and Pfizer Nolvasan S ($75/gallon) all have strong germicidal and fungicidal properties and are made for use in agricultural/animal settings. Our preference is Virkon S tablets to mix solution in foot baths and for spray bottles. We also use Lysol spray for boots at the entrances to clean areas as the secondary defense. You may also find Grainger/Zep and Odoban disinfectants at your local home-improve-ment store. Carefully follow label and mix in correct ratio with water. Wear eye protection and gloves.

Footbaths: The cheapest footbath is to use a kitty litter pan ($6 or less). Specialty footbaths made specifically for agricultural settings run from $50 to $100, depending upon size. These baths use a foam core to soak up solution. When you step on it, the disinfectant goes on your shoe bottoms without touching the tops of the boots. They save time and disinfectant, but are more costly initially. Barn-ready brands include Aces Disinfecting Foot Bath and Gemplers Foot Bath Mats.

Gloves: Any latex medical glove can be used. We prefer a nitrile “rub-ber” glove since they hold up better in a barn environment than regu-lar latex. Shop around for the best price. Check medical supply stores, drug stores and online. It’s important to get gloves that fit well.

Gowns/ Coveralls: The goal is to cover your clean clothes, and cover-alls are the best. We prefer DuPont Tyvek coveralls, gowns and boo-ties, as they don’t rip easily, and they repel water and secretions rather than absorb them. Easy on and easy off. We reuse them, hanging them on a hook at entrance. Use a permanent marker to label them for each person. Expect to pay about $8-$10 per coverall. Plain dispos-able gowns can be purchased at a medical-supplies store.

Booties/ Foot Covers/ Boots: The cheapest option is a PVC or rub-ber farm boot. You can find them for $15 to $20 at any farm-supply store. Mark the pair with florescent spray paint or neon duct tape. We use booties in combination with the rubber boots. They’re designed to pull right on over your shoes. DuPont Tyvek ones are durable, so we usually get several days out of them before we need to dispose of them. They’re about $5/pair. You also can purchase 6 mil plastic ones that are disposed of with each use, which cost $1 to $1.50 a pair.


StranglesOne of the most common infections brought into barns by new horses is strangles (streptococcus equi bacteria). A horse may not even show symptoms, but he could still be carrying the disease.So, asymptomatic horses are tested before they leave quarantine.

If the horse becomes symptomatic, its care and treatment will be de-termined by your veterinarian, as will the horse’s release from quaran-tine protocol.

Approximately 30 days after the horse’s symptoms have resolved, we do three nasal swabs one week apart. All three must be clean to release the horse from quarantine.

If symptoms show up again, you restart the clock. It can be a long, frustrating process. But skipping the testing process could result in an outbreak. Strangles carriers can shed the Step Equi organism for months, sometimes intermittently for years.

Be sure you have the right supplies.

5. Use spray bottle to spray entire shoe, including top and sides.

6. Remove second pair gloves.7. Hand sanitizer and/or wash

hands before entering clean areas.Remember hats! Often people for-

get what is on their head, so the hat goes with them from dirty to clean areas without notice.

it’s also wise to allow only one person access, so only that one per-son cares for the quarantine horse (s). If that person needs to care for others, the quarantine horse should be done last.

bOTTOM liNe. The quarantine clock starts when the horse arrives. Start taking the horse’s temperature twice a day, and write it down. If the horse re-mains healthy, we normally release the quarantine at 30 days. If that’s impossible, we strongly advise no less than three weeks; We’ve seen horses develop strangles at 13 days post auction.

Yes, this is costly. To properly do quarantine you need to have the supplies on hand (see sidebar), and it does add up. However, if the other horses in your barn become ill, that “cheap” horse you saved will cost you a bundle in vet bills.

We recommend you visit the Bios-ecurity Tool Kit for Equine Events at: http://www.cdfa.ca.gov/ahfss/

animal_health/equine_biosecurity.html

and visit the American Asso-ciation for Equine Practitioners (AAEP) site for an excellent com-

plete workbook at http://www.aaep.org/custdocs/BiosecurityGuide-linesFinal030113.pdf


How safe is your Horse’s barn?

How safe is your horse’s barn? Does it provide adequate precautions to protect your horse against disease?

The University of Guelph has a short interesting quiz that you can take to determine your barn’s safety factor. If you answer the questions carefully, you may be very surprised by the result.

If you don’t get a “green light” that tells you you’re doing a good job, you may want to spruce up your game plan. Our article on biosecurity makes it simple to do, with (of course!) our list of recommended products for disin-fectants and more.


did you like The rolex kentucky broadcast? We didThink an NFL Films version of a Super Bowl, versus what you watch on Super Bowl Sunday.

Our biggest Rolex Kentucky TV broadcast criticism: We’d have liked more cross-country coverage.

The week after the Rolex Ken-tucky Three-Day Event has become the traditional time

for airing the NBC broadcast of America’s premier eventing com-petition. This started because they used to run it immediately before the Kentucky Derby, as a lead-in, but it’s run standing alone for sev-eral years now.

In the horse world, few things are more controversial than the content and presentation of this annual broadcast. And this year has been no exception.

In the past, the producers have attempted to give the broadcast a live feel—culminating by showing the top 10 horses doing their show jumping rounds in their entirety, following pretty extensive cross-country coverage of the major players and about 30 seconds of dressage. In fact, for the last decade or so, the Rolex Kentucky show jumping has been shown live in Europe. They didn’t do it this time, though, and I don’t know why.

This year, a completely new pro-duction team took a different tack, by presenting the event more like a feature than a newsy sports broad-cast—profiling about half a dozen riders and their horses, showing some relatively lengthy interviews, and interspersing it with snip-pets of competition. Think an NFL Films version of a Super Bowl, ver-sus what you watch on Super Bowl Sunday.

Not surprisingly, people who couldn’t attend Rolex Kentucky in person or watch the extraordinary coverage available online on USEF Network have been, judging from online comments, rather disap-pointed by the new show. If you wanted to watch the full round in any phase of a given pair, you were out of luck. If you wanted to see a

strictly linear recounting of the competition, you weren’t going to be happy.

But, honestly, I thought it was a good idea, an im-provement over past presen-tations. In today’s world of instant Internet and tablet coverage, there’s no point in pretending that it’s live (or nearly live) coverage, because we know it isn’t. It’s silly to even pretend that viewers (at least most of them) are watching the TV show to find out who won. That news is a week old.

The new, featurey focus on several riders, showing them behind the scenes as well as in competition, made the viewer feel personally invested in their outcome. The format also allowed some of the best, in-depth descrip-tion of how the sport and its scoring works that I’ve ever seen.

My wife, Heather, has been com-peting in eventing since the ‘80s, and her non-horsie parents still don’t understand the scoring—but this broadcast would have helped them and others like them. Heck, they even answered the question I’ve gotten most frequently from the non-initiated over the years: “Why is it called a three-day event when it runs over four days?”

OK, it wasn’t perfect. We’d have done some things differently. A graphic overview of the cross-coun-try course would have helped view-ers understand the enormity of the undertaking. Actually, more cross-country coverage in general would have been better—it’s the phase that always captivates people.

Still, I think this was one of the most successful depictions of event-ing I’ve ever seen. Our riders came across as thinking, feeling, intelli-

gent, normal folks. Our horses were shown with affection and bril-liance. The story was compelling and easy to follow. All of those are good things on a TV show.

But, most importantly of all, the broadcast showcased, in words and pictures, the extraordinary bond between the riders and their horses. And that, to me, is the true heart of our sport. The extraordinary level of trust and care between horse and rider shined through in nearly ever scene, and it had to choke you up a bit.

It’s always fun to see horses on TV. It’s even better when at the end you feel like they got it right.

Oh, and California Chrome sure got it right in the Kentucky Derby the day before. Those of us who live here on the West Coast are really hoping that a California-bred will break the Triple Crown jinx after 37 years!

John Strassburger, Performance Editor


getting Hooked - velcro CleanersCleaning your hook-and-loop stuff keeps them sticking to each other.

We depend upon Velcro for many critical items, like bell boots and tendon boots.

The Cashel Velcro brush, left, is toothbrush style, while the GripClean is a little more like a dog brush.

Hook-and-loop material (aka Velcro) is everywhere. Most of the time we don’t bother

to clean it because, even with tail hairs and hay stuck to the little plastic hooks, it still works pretty well. Eventually, though, you’ve got to take action.

The easiest way to clean hook-and-loop material is in the washing ma-chine but, of course, there’s a catch 22, with the bashing of the machine agitator causing wear and tear on the plastic hooks. (If possible, use a front-loading machine because it doesn’t have an agitator.) To mini-mize damage you want to close the material on each other, but then you might not get it thoroughly clean.

If you want to use a cleaning tool to get the debris out, the ideal tool has short, stiff bristles and, yes, that’s much like a dog brush,

except that you need a smaller brush with a good handle so you can make short quick strokes that will flick the debris from the material without catching on the hooks.

The GripClean is that type of brush with the added advantage that its angled steel bristles fold away so they don’t catch on anything when not in use. The thin bristles will bend out of alignment but will still get the job done and can be pushed back into place.

The Cashel brush, similar to a toothbrush in size and design, has brass bristles and also works well. You can find similar tools in hardware and discount stores.

After you’ve gotten your hook-and-loop material both clean and dry, you might try spritzing it with anti-static spray to keep dry debris from sticking as easily.

Guidelines for machine-washing hook-and-loop material:

* Brush off as much dry debris as possible before washing.

* Close the two sides on each other, if you can. For items like leg wraps, use cold water - warm will soften the hooks and air dry to prevent heat from the dryer soften-ing the hooks.

If you don’t have a washer: * Brush off as much dry debris as

possible with a grooming brush.* Blast the material with the

strongest setting on your garden-hose sprayer. Use a little Dawn detergent to cut grease, if necessary.

* Submerge the material in water to prevent damage while you use a cleaning tool to pull out any re-maining debris.

* Take a pointed tool, like a toothpick, to loosen debris from the hooks before using the cleaning brush, working parallel between the rows. If you have a braiding kit, the seam ripper will also do the job.

bOTTOM liNeBesides cold water, the tool we liked best is the GripClean. it’s easy to use and store and gets the job done with little fuss.

Article by Associate Editor Marga-ret Freeman.


The best equine MemorialHelping other horses seems the most fitting tribute.

Consider a donation to a rescue to help save more horses.

With the loss of a beloved horse comes the urge to somehow memorialize

that equine. My husband, Chuck, thought of planting flowers or pos-sibly a tree on Monte’s grave. Not so hot an idea. Rabbits, deer, sheep or the other horses would eat anything planted there rather quickly.

Certainly a stone set in the ground would work or a plaque on a nearby fence post. But there are options that can not only memorialize your horse but also do some good in the equine world.

I suggest owners consider looking into making a donation in mem-ory of their horse. This gives you many, many options. If your horse was a retired racehorse, there are many charities that either house or rehome these Thoroughbreds. An example is Second Stride. There are many others, so simply search and find one nearby or that fits your philosophy. Always research to find out exactly how your donation dol-lars will be spent.

One of our Horse Journal prod-uct-trial facilities is Squirrelwood Equine Sanctuary. They, too, rescue horses and rehabilitate them.

Don’t despair if your beloved horse was a backyard special. There are many horse rescue groups that would love some donation cash and would make good use of it. For rescue donations I suggest staying fairly local and checking out the facility yourself. Your local animal shelter may need some assistance for horse supplies.

Health care and research are wonderful areas to remember your horse through. Morris Animal Foundation supports research spe-cifically to help horses (along with plenty of other animals). You can donate to a general fund or chose a project that is close to your heart.

Since Monte was an Arabian, a do-nation to the Arabian Horse Foun-dation Programs is an option for us.

We could specify youth, education, disaster relief or health research. Many breed clubs have health founda-tions.

Monte was also a polo pony for Chuck. Got some laughs the first time he cantered out onto the field, but he made fans with his skill. We might make a donation to the Cornell Polo program in his honor.

Don’t forget your closest veterinary college. Most colleges can use donations for spe-cific research or to funds to help pay veterinary costs for horses in need. You could even set up a scholarship for a veterinary student with equine interests.

If your horse, or you, had a special interest in youth, don’t forget your local 4-H and FFA groups. These groups are often short on money for projects. Sponsoring a clinic with a great trainer to help these kids and their horses would be a wonderful way to remember your departed horse.

Besides cash donations, consider a donation of your time or space. Vol-unteering, even if it is just groom-ing or doing stalls once a month, could be a huge benefit to a local rescue group with overworked staff. Offer to man a booth at a local fair to drum up interest in the rescue group.

If you now have an empty stall that you don’t want to fill with a horse of your own right now, con-sider fostering a rescue horse. The

horse would benefit from extra TLC and it might help to fill that big hole in your heart.

The loss of your horse has deeply wounded your heart. By doing some good, you will feel better and your horse will live on in the good deeds done in his memory.

Deb M. Eldredge, Contributing eterinary Editor


Media Critique: dressage for the Not-so-Perfect Horse

I would bet that most people would read the title of this book and think, “Well, that’s my

horse!” The fact is, few of us have a “perfect” dressage horse, if one even exists (sorry, Totilas). But what is perfect is the way this book is put together? With little effort, you can find your problem and get a work-able solution.

We love Foy’s insistence that horses are individuals with physi-cal and mental limitations and how she works with those issues. She believes in developing a strong foundation, so her explanations start with where your horse’s basics might be weak.

Many problems include a Judging Tip - With horses that break when lengthening, she wrote: Remember, at First Level, if you choose to post the lengthening trot, you do not change your posting diagonal at X. I would start posting in the corner if you have been sitting rather than surprising the horse once he is on the diagonal. It is too easy to cause a balance issue.

She includes training exercises, first-person accounts of riders and horses with similar problems and Rule Book notations, right through to passage/piaffe. The illustrations, sidebars and layout are excellent, but the photos are lacking. Several are of “not-so-perfect” horses and riders, just like most of us. That may be encouraging to the reader, but it’s not strongly educational.

Bottom Line: Many dressage books can benefit any discipline, and this book is a perfect example. After all, all horses need to travel in a balanced, rhythmic fashion with smooth transitions and suppleness. You will find workable solutions for common training issues.

Best Suited For: The serious student of dressage, especially one interested in competing.

A book that describes many horses.

You’ll be disappointed if: You learn through artwork. For the most part, the art is sparse and the actual photographs are disappointing.

DRESSAGE FOR THE NOT-SO-PERFECT HORSE. BY JANET FOY WITH NANCY JONES. HARD COVER. 2012. TRAFALGAR SQUARE BOOKS. $32.95. AVAIL-ABLE ONLINE AT

WWW. HORSEBOOKSETC.COM OR 800-952-5813.

Comeback Challenge From “a Home for every Horse”The Equine Comeback Challenge is accepting applications from trainers and horse owners.

A Home for Every Horse is excited to announce The Equine Comeback Challenge

is going to the Pennsylvania Na-tional Horse Show in October,

We are going to team up 10 horses and 10 trainers for 90 days to com-pete at the Pennsylvania National Horse Show, Harrisburg, October 14.

This event will highlight Trail Versatility with an extra two min-utes for each competitor to high-light special skills each horse has acquired. At the end of the event the horses will be sold privately fol-lowing the event.

The mission of the Equine Come-back Challenge is to bring attention to rescue horses all over the coun-try. 10 rescues horses will be placed with 10 trainers for 90 days to dem-onstrate their abilities and train-

ability. A Home for Every Horse will be visiting locations of the horses with trainers to help bring attention to the program. We invite you to tell us why your rescue horse would be a great addition for the Equine Comeback Challenge at the Pennsylvania National Show.

Click here to learn more and sign up, if you have an eligible horse or are interested in applying to be one of the 10 trainers.


Mosquito activityMosquito bites are nothing to scratch off.

Did you know mosquito activ-ity can be as high as 500% more on a full-moon? It’s

true, according to mosquito.org. The next full moon is May 14, followed by June 13, so get ready if mosqui-toes are active in your area. You can see the full moon schedule here.

Don’t know how active mosquitoes are in your town? You can put your zip code in at weather.com and find out during which hours the mosquitoes will be heaviest. It was amazing to insert my own zip code here in New York state and then compare it to Atlanta, Ga. (There are advantages to living in upstate New York!) Yes, the activity is worst from dusk to dawn, which is one of the reasons we don’t turn our horses out at night.

Wondering how active mosquito-carried illnesses are in your geo-graphical area? We found that too: the USGS disease maps.

But why worry so much about mosquitoes? Think Eastern and Western equine encephalitis (EEE/WEE) and West Nile virus (WNV), among other diseases. You already know the equine symptoms in-clude fever, weakness, neurological (stumbling, circling), head pressing and so on, but why take the risk? EEE has around a 75% mortality rate; West Nile is around 40%. But you will have veterinary bills. The horses get very sick. Makes vaccina-tion seem like a bargain, doesn’t it?

Besides shots, you can minimize mosquitoes on our property by keeping standing areas of water drained (look for places water pools, like empty plant containers, buckets), as water is a necessity for the mosquito life cycle.

Natural repellent sprays contain-ing cedar oil (which works well but some horses and people may find it intolerable), neem oil (often mixed with coconut) and citronella are good choices. Espree Aloe Herbal Horse Spray also contains euca-lyptus, and works well (and leaves

Mosquito activity may peak with full moons.

your horse’s coat soft). Many people swear by citronella. It’s the repel-ling ingredient in Avon’s Skin-So-Soft, and it’s found in many horse sprays.

However, when it really matters, we admit we turn to chemicals. Our favorites include Farnam’s Mos-quito Halt, Absorbine’s UltraShield

EX and Farnam’s Original Formula Wipe (nothing works as quickly!). You can also check a fly spray’s label for permethrin, which is approved as a topical repellent/in-secticide for horses and works well against mosquitoes. (We know some people use it, but we would avoid DEET on horses.)

Some fly sheets can help, if they have a very tight mesh that makes it difficult for a mosquito to bite through, like Mosquito Mesh from Schneiders Saddlery. You can also lightly spray the sheet on both sides before putting it on your horse. Use just enough to moisten the fabric and allow it to dry before applying.

But remember that nothing is go-ing to cover 100% of your horse’s body, bringing us back to sprays and vaccination. If you have a favorite product or ingredient for mosquito control, let’s share the information. We’d love to hear from you.

doppler for laminitisNot yet . . . but the future looks good.

The Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association recently reported on using Doppler ultrasound to evaluate the digital pulse in horses with either systemic inflammatory response syndrome (SIRS)

or laminitis (founder). It should be noted that SIRS can lead to or be associ-ated with laminitis.

The goal of this study out of the veterinary teaching hospital at the Uni-versity of Murcia in Spain was to look at a noninvasive but objective way to evaluate horses with these problems. Carla N. Aguirre, DVM PhD was the lead investigator on this study.

Progress in both of these problems is often measured by people feeling their horse’s digital pulse. Unfortunately each individual has a slightly dif-ferent “feel for the pulse. A pulse may be “bounding” to you but not to your barn manager. Many of the current objective techniques require invasive actions such as injecting dyes to follow.

Bottom Line: This study showed that simple Doppler ultrasound can pick up differences in digital pulse flow in horses. This is most useful if the horse has laminitis. In the future this may be an easy way to follow the recovery (hopefully) and/or development of laminitis in your horse.

Includes a video on how to take a digital pulse from Rood & Riddle.Debra M. Eldredge, DVM, Contributing Veterinary Editor


Pitch Fork decisionsIt’s time for a change.

The DreamFork weighs less than 3 lbs., but is super strong.

We’ve always maintained that if you’re doing one or two stalls a day, you’re

probably not horribly picky about the fork you use. Well, we were wrong. And it’s all because of a new fork on the market. It can make a difference.

Over the years, we’ve used various models of the Future Fork, Apple Picker and the Dura Fork. We’ve also had the Thunderbolt Sifter, the A Plus Equine Fine-Tines and more. They’re all good choices, and the A Plus Equine Fine-Tines and Future Fork are previous Editor’s Choice/Best Buy picks.

These forks are well made and nicely priced - pretty much what we’ve all grown to expect in a quality fork. But we think the New Wave DreamFork from VersZa has raised the bar.

It’s lightweight – our barn workers said it felt lighter than other forks they were using. It weighs less than three pounds. It is very well bal-anced.

Head shape is somewhat personal. There are those who just will not give up their basket-shaped fork heads. And we do understand. But we found the NewWave fork’s slight dip in the tines worked very well, unless you were really trying to grab three piles of manure from arena footing or something like that. Otherwise, in normal stall cleaning, it’s terrific.

Best of all, we love the replace-able tines. Not that the company believes they will ever need to be replaced. They claim the tines are

virtually unbreakable (see warranty), and we don’t doubt it.

We also applaud the idea of replaceable tines in general, because we believe Americans have become a somewhat wasteful society. Why have to toss a pitch fork head because one tine broke? Because it will leak, that’s why. But that shouldn’t be necessary.

The fork arrives and must be assembled, which took less than five minutes. You can also pick from 13 dif-ferent colors, choosing an alternating color pattern or one solid color. (We admit it was fun to play with the colors and design virtual forks online.

bOTTOM liNe. The New Wave DreamFork quickly became the tool of choice in our barn. The $59.95 price tag might give you pause at first, but our testers confirm

that it is well worth the cost. It’s our Editor’s Choice.

See our December 2010 review of stall forks.

smartPak acquired by Henry schein animal HealthHenry Schein is a large veterinary and human medical supplies company.

SmartPak announced today that Henry Schein is now the majority holder of their company, calling it an “acquisition.”

Whether the partnership will change anything consumers like (or dislike!) about SmartPak remains to be seen. Paal Gisholt, SmartPak’s cur-rent President and Chief Executive Officer, will remain in that position.

Oak Hill Partners, a private equity firm and the original SmartPak man-agement team are the other owners of the company.


Connecticut legislature Passes law that Horses are Not inherently viciousHorses not vicious, but we’re not off the hook either.

Horse owners in the state of Connecticut as well as across the nation can breathe a

small sigh of legal liability relief as last week that state’s legislature passed a law stating that domesti-cated horses are not to be presumed “naturally mischievous or vicious.”

This legislation came about in the wake of the case Vendrella et al vs. Astriab Family Limited Partner-ship et al involving a horse bite to a small child and in which the Con-necticut Supreme Court ruled that “horses, as a species, have a natural inclination to bite.”

While not binding on all states, that ruling could be used to provide guidance to other state courts deal-ing with similar lawsuits. Thus, the ruling in the Vendrella case sent shock waves through horse owners everywhere with fears that liabil-ity insurance premiums would skyrocket and potentially put the entire equine industry in jeopardy.

Passed by unanimous vote, Con-necticut HB 5044 (Public Act 14-54) states, “In any civil action brought

against the owner or keeper of any horse, pony, donkey or mule, such horse, pony, donkey or mule shall not be found to belong to a species that possesses a naturally mischie-vous or vicious propensity.” The law also retains a provision which bars strict liability against owners and keepers of these animals. The bill becomes law upon the signa-ture of Governor Dannel P. Malloy who initially proposed the legisla-tion to protect the important equine industry of his state.

Does this mean that horse owners are off the hook entirely when it comes to all liability for any injury or damages caused by their horses? Absolutely not. The new law merely rebuts an automatic legal presump-tion that horses are vicious and that injury is always foreseeable thus making a negligence claim all but a foregone conclusion. Horse own-ers and keepers can still be held liable for negligence if they breach a reasonable standard of care where their horses are concerned. How-ever, rather than presuming all

Questions surround Compounded drug Use

horses to be inherently vicious or dangerous, negligence cases under Connecticut law are to be decided on a case-by-case, fact-specific basis.

bOTTOM liNeThe Vendrella case which created the legal presumption that horses are inherently dangerous should serve as a warning shot across the bow for all of us involved with horses. Fortunately, the Connecti-cut legislature stepped in to protect horse owners by codifying that horses are not to be presumed to be vicious or dangerous. Perhaps other states would do well to fol-low Connecticut’s lead by enacting similar legislation. However, while Connecticut lawmakers codified that horses are not to be presumed inherently vicious, they did not en-act a law that allows a horse owner/keeper the privilege to throw cau-tion to the wind and be negligent.

Article by Susan Quinn, Esq.

News report that two horses are dead after receiving compounded drug.

The Lexington, Ky., news from Channel 18 reports that a com-pounding pharmacy is under

fire for the deaths of two horses in Florida, allegedly due to the phar-macy’s compounded drug for EPM. Six more horses are ill but expected to recover.

The compounding pharmacy is Wickliffe, located in Lexington, Ky.

The FDA is investigating, as it’s

not proven if the drug itself was bad or if it was administered improp-erly by farm staff.

We have warned readers many times over the years about our con-cerns about compounded drugs and compounding pharmacies.

You can read those stories here:Safely Save Money on Horse DrugsShould You Give Up Compounded

Pergolide?

FDA Approval of Prascend Means No More Compounded Pergolide

Compounded Drugs - Do You Know What You’re Giving Your Horse?

Cutting Equine Drug CostsAdequan vs. Legend vs. PentAuss-

ie


Wobble boards - Who knew?Yes, horses compete on wobble boards and more.

My clients never cease to amaze me. More often these days, that is meant

as a compliment! I am constantly learning about new products, training methods, events and other goings-on in the horse world and it is just incredible all of the things one can discover among the eques-trian community. Recently, a client mentioned to me that she was doing a lot of work with her horse on a teeter-totter. Remember those from our childhoods? Two participants sit at opposite ends of a long board centered on a fulcrum and take turns rocking up and down. OK, sure - we all know what one is. But have you ever seen a horse on a teeter-totter?

This is so cool! My client is a member of the California State Horsemen’s Association and com-petes in their trail trials. Her jubilant black Quarterhorse geld-ing Otto is particularly fond of the

teeter-totter competition. Basically, as the video shows, he balances on a platform that is centered on a railroad tie. Otto is a total pro at keeping both ends of the platform in mid-air- he has really figured everything out. It appears that he really likes it too- since he is essen-tially ground tied on the platform but never bothers to eat the grass below his feet. It takes a lot to stop a horse from eating green grass by his own free will!

My client explained to me how trail trials and obstacle course com-petition works. Riders are judged on how well they negotiated their horse through an obstacle with an emphasis on calmness and safety. Time is not a factor in scoring, however, they will ask you to move on if your horse is taking an inordi-nate amount of time to complete an obstacle. The judging is very well-developed, strict and methodical.

Of course, I should have known

that there is an association for this type of competition. There are all sorts of challenging obstacles involved in competitive trail riding, including: barrel board pin wheel, opening gates and the vine simula-tor. Needless to say- they all “look” easy- but for those of us who have attempted to convince our horses to engage them, we all know that they are extremely difficult.

Who among us competes in trail trials? If you have any words of wisdom for enthusiasts, let us know!

BARREL BOARD PINWHEEL video

OPENING GATES: video THE VINE SIMULATOR video

Grant Miller, Contributing Veterinary Editor

For Free! Fei’s information on “equestrian surfaces.” These PDFs are full of useful tidbits that can improve your arena.

The FEI has made available two FREE PDFs that you might want to read. They’re both

about arena surfaces, aka footing, and they are based strongly on re-search and fact rather than adver-tising hype and trainer opinions.

They may help you make the right choices for your arena and/or make you more aware of the concussion your horse absorbs with every foot-step over bad surfaces.

Both are available as downloads from this one link:

http://www.fei.org/fei/about-fei/publications/fei-books

While you’re there, you might find

the “FEI Sustainability Handbook for Event Organisers” useful, too, especially if you organize events in your area. It’s designed to “help reduce negative environmental im-pact of the events and create a posi-tive social and economic legacy.


Maybe it’s youWhether under saddle, or on the ground, your horse’s behavior begins and ends with you.

At a stable at which I was once in training, I remember watching someone in a lesson

on one of the horses I would some-times ride. The horse looked like a million bucks.

Since I would bravely look in mirrors when I was riding, I knew I didn’t get the same performance, at least, according to my trainer, not consistently.

Even more troubling was watch-ing my sister ride my own mare at home, and hearing my niece shout, “Wow! Look at Sally! She looks like a real show horse.” Apparently that wasn’t the case when I was riding her. It was humbling and hard to accept. I suspect most of us like to think we’re pretty good at riding our own horse!

While my ego took a hit, the re-alization helped. I took an honest look at myself and thought about what I was doing in the saddle. I de-cided to improve my own physical fitness (a huge factor in riding bet-ter) and work toward achieving the higher level of performance from the horses I ride. I worked harder, and it made a difference.

Unfortunately, it’s terribly easy to immediately blame the horse. “He hates me!” or “He only wants to do what’s right when you are riding him.”

Of course, the horse can’t have thoughts like that, but they do possess the intelligence to know with whom they can be lazy or who won’t care if they dive for some handy grass. What living creature doesn’t want to take the easy way out when possible?

If you’ve noticed someone achiev-ing more with a horse than you can, don’t take it personally. Use it as a lesson and ask the person if they have advice to share.

Sometimes it can just come down to talent. As with every sport, there

are incredibly gifted riders and horsemen for whom our horses just “do,” while we work like crazy and struggle through our challenges.

Winning the horse’s respect is imperative. The horse does not run the show, and it can take some en-ergy and effort to win him over and respect your authority.

Consistency is key. When you’re working, you’re working. You can-not insist on an immediate canter depart one day, and the next day al-low him to be lazy and trot his way into the canter.

Horses are black and white, and it’s essential you’re clear about what it is you’re asking. If you want him to walk beside you quietly, you can-not become lax one day, and allow him to pull you over the nearest patch of grass. The grass will win again next time and suddenly you’re back at square one.

Just as important as consistency and being clear, is to make sure you pay your horse for its cooperation. No one wants to work for nothing, and what is it they receive for do-

ing your bidding? What’s in it for them? The reward of your affection and, sometimes, treats.

Your horse is working hard, car-rying you and your tack around during a ride. Allow him a long rein at times, gently pat his neck and verbally tell him what a good boy he is. You can carry treats your pocket and reach around and let him enjoy one. This same phi-losophy is equally important when working on ground manners.

Treats don’t necessarily make a horse bite. Once again the fault lies with the human. If you allow the horse to get away with nipping, it turns into biting. Pestering for a treat should not result in one. Treats must be earned, and you decide when it’s appropriate.

Rules. Consistency. Clarity. Rewards. That’s what your horse needs from you.

We all dream about having that brilliant connection with our hors-es. None of us has all the answers, and the more I know, the more I realize I don’t know. Even the rid-ers at the recent Rolex Kentucky Three-Day Event and the Kentucky Reining Cup have trainers and ask others for advice. These are world champions. If they’re smart enough to continue to pursue excellence, and seek help and advice from oth-ers, why in heaven’s name shouldn’t we?

Cynthia Foley, Editor-in-Chief

NbC News addresses equine PopulationTheir story is based on the latest USDA survey.

We found this NBC News report well done with thought-provoking numbers and figures.

Oh, and if you love California Chrome and can’t wait for the June 7 Belmont, there’s a short video with the news report.


be kind to the New vetsYoung graduates are beginning to practice veterinary medicine.

Summer is approaching and so are veterinary school gradua-tions. So please be kind to the

new grads who may be interacting with you and your horses in the near future.

I remember my first horse call clearly. I was in a mixed practice in Michigan. I was already “sus-pect” because I came from Cornell in New York, not Michigan State University. It was hard to get people to believe that, no, I did not ever live in New York City and, no, you could not see the Statue of Liberty from the Ithaca campus. Most of New York is fairly rural but New York City gets all the press.

Equally against me was the fact that I was female. Veterinary schools were just starting to ad-mit more than a couple of “token” women. Female veterinarians were not common. The first continuing education meeting I went to one older male vet kindly directed me to the veterinary technician meet-ing down the hall. He did look suit-ably embarrassed when I mentioned that I was actually a veterinarian.

My colleague did most of the horse work but on this night he had a softball tournament. They had just enough players so if he missed the game to go on the equine emer-gency they would have to forfeit. He was a die-hard sports fan, so clearly I was off to do the emergency.

The emergency was a 3-month-old foal who had gotten a bad chest wound cut from some barbed wire. My assistant was to be my boss’s son – not really into horses or anything but a somewhat willing body. It was a big wound and would require a drain and quite a few su-tures. My biggest fear was tranquil-izing the colt. I could picture this lovely chestnut colt dropping dead from anesthesia. However, I tried to project calm and cool.

The owners were rural Michigan-

ders and into reining and rodeo. Picture five big guys standing around, pick up trucks with gun racks, beer flowing and chewing tobacco cans. Worse yet, since my colleague had the practice truck I had my supplies in a plastic bag and we arrived in my tiny, bright yellow Chevette Scooter – a step above the Flintstone peddle car.

I figured pointing out my Pony Club background would not go over well or even playing polo for Cornell. I had done some gaming though and that helped to break the ice a bit. Still, I knew they were looking at me and picturing the Empire State Building or Times Square.

The surgery went well. I tranquil-

ized the foal lightly – putting my son’s boss to good use propping up a drunk foal. I then did a three-layer closure plus put in a drain. There was major skepticism over the drain but the muttering was quiet. We rigged up some bandaging to keep the foal from removing the drain and I stressed how important it was to keep a close eye on the wound. Antibiotics and tetanus an-titoxin were given, more antibiotics dispensed and off I went.

My colleague did the follow-up visits to check the wound, remove the drain and eventually remove the sutures. The wound healed nicely and without incident, barely leaving a scar. And I knew I had “made it” when I got a salmon dropped off at the clinic near Christmas time for a gift!

So, be kind to your new vets. Trust that they are trained. They might have some new ideas but maybe they are good ones.

Deb M. Eldredge, DVM, Contributing Veterinary Editor

California Chrome Can run!Nose strip and all in the Belmont Stakes

CNN reports that California Chrome can run in the Belmont Stakes - with his nasal strip. See story here.

beezie Madden injured

See the story at: http://www.cnycentral.com/news/story.aspx?list=190256&id=1046256#.U3toVdJdWK4dpuf

Broken collar bone.

Horse Too Thin?FEI under pressure to change the rules.

A horse was presented to compete in a 100-mile endurance ride in France. Controversy arose after the horse was approved by vets to do the race, calling the horse “lean,” and a photo of the horse was

released. Read the story here. Should the FEI change the rules to stop this sort of thing?


your Horse Trainer’s Program Needs to suit your goals The truth is that some riders and trainers fit together better than others.

I often tell my son Wesley that “can’t” is a word I don’t understand.

The students who take riding lessons at most barns around the country are almost always

either adult amateur or junior rid-ers. And those two large groups of people can be subdivided into several categories (sometimes even more than one category), including the category every trainer likes to work with: athletic, brave, hard-working, with the resources to have good horses, and committed to your program.

But for most of us trainers, riders who fit into that category are pretty rare birds, kind of like California Condors. So, the most common categories for the adult-amateur rider riders in your barn are: I’m Really Serious—But Time And Money Crunched; I Want To Learn But I Don’t Want To Compete; I’m Only Here For Fun; Re-Riders (aka former child stars now returning to the saddle, but often not accepting that they aren’t as brave or as able as they were 20-plus years ago); Ter-rified But Determined; and Terrified But Not Really So Determined.

For junior riders, the most com-mon categories include: I Want To Make A U.S. Team by the Time I’m 25; Horse-Obsessed Barn Rat; More Talent and Drive Than Dollars; I’m Here Because My Friends Are Doing This; and Horsies Are Purty. We’ve also often seen the sudden onset of teenage hormones: “I really want to ride; I really want to ride—Oh my god, did you see that guy!?” Then it’s, “Mom and Dad, you can sell my horse.”

Since riding students have such a varied set of personalities, goals and dreams, it’s a good thing that trainers’ personalities and styles are almost as varied as their students. Most good trainers already tailor their approach to the student who’s in front of them, but any trainer with the experience necessary to

properly develop horses and riders has a theory and a program or methodology that overarches what and how they teach.

The truth is that some rid-ers and trainers fit together better than others. Some-times they fit is like a hand in a glove, but it can also be as bad as oil and water. Sometimes you sense that right away, and sometimes you don’t discover it until somewhere down the road. Usually, though, the fit is somewhere between those two extremes.

We trainers are human, and that means that we’re necessarily products of the environment in which we grew up. From horse and non-horse experiences, we all have priorities in our lives and in our businesses, and we do some things bet-ter than we do others. One trainer might be especially good at solving horses (or riders) with problems; one might work best with beginning or novice riders, while another might work only with high-goal riders already competing at a certain level. One trainer’s life might allow them to teach at dawn or until late at night, while anoth-er’s life or priorities require stu-dents to take lessons only between 10:00 and 6:00.

Riders have to decide how their goals, lifestyle priorities and financ-es mesh with those of any trainer they’re considering. Rarely is there a perfect answer, and the right answer this month can certainly change, for a variety of reasons in a few months or years.

My wife, Heather, was the prod-uct of a pretty strict European training model. The emphasis was

on doing things correctly and push-ing yourself. It wasn’t really a spot for the weak of heart or for those in the “I’m Only Here For Fun” cat-egory. They did develop in Heather her tremendous natural feel and a gift for the dressage work, but one of the trainers was naturally gifted over fences and unable to explain his technique to Heather, who’s always struggled over fences.

As a trainer now, Heather is known for her ability to break down and carefully communicate all the minutia involved in every aspect of riding. She can explain concepts in a variety of ways to help each student understand. She also works extremely well with people who have confidence issues, because she’s dealt with confidence issues herself. So she has an innate feel for when to push and when to give


someone space.She is unfailingly kind and forgiv-

ing to her students, but some people would say that she’s “too nice.” Some riders need a trainer who’s aggressive and pushes hard and “doesn’t sugarcoat it.” The world has plenty of trainers who will do that. But the type of student who thrives with a trainer like Heather would curl up and fall apart with a more “drill sergeant-type” trainer.

I trained for several years with a former Calvary officer (I don’t know

Tildren Now approved in the Usa!The FDA announces that Tildren can be marketed and sold as of February, 2014.

The United States Food and Drug Administra-

tion (FDA) Center for Veterinary Medicine recently approved Til-dren for use in horses in the United States. For those of you who are unfamiliar with Tildren, it is a pretty remarkable drug that has been used around the world for nearly two decades now to treat bone-related lameness in horses.

According to its maker CEVA, Tiludronic acid (also called Til-dren) is a bisphosphonate thera-peutic drug which exerts activity on bone metabolism. The main pharmacological property of Til-dren is to reduce bone resorption by inhibiting the activity of osteo-clasts (cells that break down bone.) Some readers may be familiar with bisphosphonates since they are widely used in women to slow the progression of osteoporosis.

Tildren essentially acts as a regulator of bone remodelling in all situations involving excessive bone resorption, such as arthritis or navicular syndrome in horses. This regulator effect is not associ-ated with a negative effect on bone formation or bone mineralization at the recommended therapeutic dos-

age. Tildren is officially labelled to treat na-vicular syndrome, but veterinarians who have been able to obtain it from overseas report ex-cellent results with its application for arthritis, ringbone, and kissing spines. Basically- if your horse’s lameness is bone-related, Tildren

may be able to help! Although Tildren can be given

once daily for 10 days to achieve the therapeutic effect, it is much safer and reportedly more effective to give it once, but slowly over 1 to 3 hours’ time. This can be easily accomplished by diluting the medi-cation in intravenous fluids and then letting it run in on an IV drip.

Side effects are few and far be-tween- some horses have reportedly become colicky after the treatment, but the colic is usually mild and resolves spontaneously on its own. Also, it is not approved for use in young, growing animals under 2 years of age due to its competitive binding of Calcium.

Tildren works slowly over time with effects most commonly be-ing reported at 5 to 8 weeks post administration. However, some horse owners report effects in as little as 2 days to 2 weeks following

a Tildren injection! The effects are long-lived and often last for several years. Most horses that receive Tildren do not get a second dose however no deleterious side effects have been described to date as a result of repeated dosing.

Sounds like a wonder-drug… right? Some may wonder, “where has it been all my life?!” The FDA has rigorous approval procedures in which a drug manufacturer must prove product safety and efficacy prior to it being available in the United States. As a result, Tildren has, until recently, been unavailable here. Those who have imported Tildren under the federal FDA personal importation policy have paid high prices. Tildren sells for far less in other parts of the world than it does in the USA. This is due not only to opportunistic “supply and demand” mark-up, but also to overseas shipping costs and administrative import paperwork.

Now that Tildren is available here, hundreds of lame horses may be kicking up their heals once again as veterinarians everywhere will begin to stock it! How many read-ers have horses that have received Tildren? Any stories that you wish to share?

Grant Milloer, DVM, Contributing Veterinary Writer.

that I ever knew his first name—he was “Col. Johnson” to everyone), and thanks to him and to my Ger-man parents, I’d say that I had that tough mentality regarding riding (and life) installed early. The Nike slogan “Just Do It” would describe most of my upbringing, or “Lead, Follow or Get the Hell Out of the Way.”

I’ll admit that I struggle sometimes with my own approach when teach-ing, but we find that, for some stu-dents, I make a good counterpoint

to Heather’s style. She builds them up, and I tell them to just go and do it. “Can’t” isn’t a word I recognize. I often tell my son that.

The key is finding the style that works best for you and your horse, finding a trainer whose philosophy and program works best for you and who is able to adapt it to suit you and your horse. Compatibility is the goal, and not every trainer is right for every students, or vice-versa.



low-Tech arena MaintenancePicking manure from the arena is worth the (group) effort.

I don’t recall seeing people hand-pick manure from arenas very much until the high-tech – and

very expensive – surfaces with a wax component became popular a decade ago. One of their strongest features is a lack of dust but also no need for watering. The surfaces come with a caveat that manure must be removed religiously, be-cause it breaks down and becomes dust, and then that very expensive lovely footing is no longer so lovely.

The basic rule for these arenas is that, if your horse poops, you pick the manure as soon as you’re done riding. You don’t expect someone else to do it for you, and you don’t wait any longer than necessary because once other horses start tromping through it, then the little bits of manure will mix into the footing. A corollary to the rule is that if someone is on foot in the arena – trainer, spectator, anyone – they go pick manure immediately when it falls.

Now, I’ve started to notice that even arenas with more ordinary sand footing are being hand-picked following the same rules. Basically, the people who use that arena are all in this together. A clean arena helps to reduce flies and dust and also potential slick spots. This de-pooping procedure is particu-larly true with indoors and covered arenas and even occasionally with outdoor arenas, maybe not huge ones but certainly smaller dressage-sized rings.

It helps in an indoor to have a muck bucket and fork stationed in each corner or at least at each end of the ring. With covered arenas, the usual practice is to just toss it over the rail onto the grass outside.

In Europe, apparently, manure removal in arenas has been a prac-tice for a lot longer than here, and they even have specialized tools, like a small rake combined with a container on a handle. I expect the tools will catch on here as well before very long.

Several years ago, the barn I was in moved the horses en masse to winter quarters with an indoor arena that happened to have the new high-tech waxed footing. I was already accustomed the de-poop-ing procedure, but a couple of the other boarders protested, saying it should be the job of a barn worker at the end of the day. No, it was ex-plained, this is everyone’s responsi-

A clean, clear riding arena is a joy to all.

bility. Besides, a barn worker can’t be posted at the ring just to pick manure all day there. Arena pick-ing has become just like other good manners in a shared boarding barn, like always sweeping the groom-ing area and always passing left to left. A clean arena is just nicer for everyone.

Margaret Freeman, Associate Editor

Horse bowl in the OlympicsIt’s somewhat like Quidditch from Harry Potter fame.

Something new for the Olympics? This video report from CNN intro-duces a new horse sport (to us anyway). They compare it to Harry Potter’s Quidditch game.

With constant Olympic-Committee threats to end the equestrian competi-tion in the Games (due to cost, logistics), it’s difficult to imagine they would add a sport.

Does this sound like fun to you? Too violent? Too close to polo? What do you think? You can read more here.

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Wear riding Helmets—it’s How To “Mind your Melon”“It’s time to declare war on the b.s. of people still riding without a helmet.”

I would think—more than 20 years since the creation of the ASTM/SEI standard for riding

helmets and thousands of pages of research into head injuries—that wearing an ASTM/SEI-certified rid-ing helmet whenever you’re riding couldn’t even be a topic for debate. But, somehow, it still is.

I was reminded of that the other day when I saw a video piece done by event riders Dom and Jimmie Schramm, who’d just heard about a young girl who suffered a seri-ous head injury in a riding fall. Like me, couldn’t believe some riders still dismiss wearing hel-mets for a variety of superficial and moronic reasons.[VIDEOSINGLE type=”vimeo” keyid=”95565363”, width=”560”, height=”315”]

With the Twitter hash tag #mindy-ourmelon as a means to spread the word via social media, Dom extols riders in all disciplines to protect their heads by wearing a helmet. “It’s time to declare war on the b.s. of people still riding without a hel-met,” he says. I agree, completely. No one, under any circumstances, has ever been allowed to get on a horse without wearing an ASTM-SEI-certified helmet at our Phoenix Farm.

Their video shows Dom’s friend and fellow Australian Boyd Mar-tin throwing away the straw hat he used to wear while riding and putting on an ASTM/SEI-certified helmet. Martin’s fervor is under-standable, considering that his wife, Silvia, is still recovering from a severe head injury she suffered in March when the horse on which she was sitting while teaching a les-son stumbled and fell. The extent of her recovery is still uncertain.

The video also shows several other four-star riders, including Hawley

Bennett-Awad, Allison Springer and Lauren Kieffer, exhorting riders to follow their example and wear their helmets. Says Buck David-son, America’s leading event rider, disarmingly, “The first thing I do every time I go to ride a horse is get my Charles Owen helmet. Even though there’s not much to protect, it’s the only one I’ve got. Mind your melon.” Amen.

Remember that 2008 Olympic dressage rider Courtney King-Dye ruined her extremely promising career, and nearly lost her life, because a young horse she was schooling tripped and fell in a dres-sage arena in 2010. It was her fall that provided the impetus for USEF rule requiring ASTM/SEI-certi-fied helmets for dressage and that changed the FEI rule to allow them for dressage.

I know at least a dozen riders whose riding careers—and even their lives— were saved by wearing certified helmets. Yes, they’re all either event riders or steeplechase riders, and they’re required to wear an ASTM/SEI-certified helmet in competition, but I don’t know anyone in either sport who doesn’t wear a certified helmet almost ev-ery time they ride today.

ASTM/SEI-certified helmets have saved my life, twice—and I firmly believe that I’d be a blithering vegetable today from all the other times I’ve fallen off a horse in my life if my parents and my Pony Club upbringing hadn’t required me to wear the best helmet available from the time I started to ride at age 5.

And let me emphasize this: All but a handful of those falls were while riding at home or training somewhere else, not while compet-ing.

The first of my two catastrophic falls did happen while competing,

in a steeplechase race, in April 1992, only about two years after the ASTM/SEI standard was intro-duced. It was my horse’s first hurdle race, and I would discover that she was really too careful a jumper to be a hurdle horse. She didn’t want to brush through the plastic brush on top of the jump rolls, and from later looking at a photo of the jump where we fell, I could see that she was so focused on not touching the plastic brush that she didn’t put her landing gear down in time. We crashed into the ground like a wingless airplane.

I still remember only the start of the race, and the first thing I remember after the fall is lying in what must have been the hospital emergency room. After that, then I only recall snippets of the next two or three days. Fortunately, I didn’t break anything, and two weeks later I rode the same mare in another hurdle race, which we fin-ished. Wasn’t I worried? Well, I was younger and braver then, but the good thing about a head injury like that is that it’s liberating—since you don’t remember what hap-pened, you don’t have a reason to worry about it.

The second calamitous fall was a

Always wear an ASTM/SEI-certified helmet, like this Charles Owen skull cap.

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014 �1

reminder of why you must wear a certified helmet whenever you’re riding or training at home. It was four years ago last weekend, actual-ly, and I was getting on a 3-year-old for the first time, a horse whose two older brothers had been the easiest horses in the world to start under saddle and who seemed to share their temperaments. She didn’t.

My butt never touched the sad-dle—she launched me sky high, and the last thing I remember is flying through the air. I came down head first, breaking my right oc-cipital bone, my left collarbone, the first two ribs on my right side and the third and fourth ribs on the left side. Plus, I dislocated my right shoulder.

I woke up to the sound of the helicopter circling to land in our front field—and feeling like beavers were gnawing my insides apart. That night, I imagined all kinds of outlandish events happening in the intensive-care unit, and the only thing I remember about the next day is a few moments of being transferred by stretcher from the trauma hospital where the helicop-ter took me to my regular Kaiser Permanente hospital. And then I don’t remember anything about the first of the two days I spent there, except a few moments of my wife, Heather, bringing our son to visit me. But I couldn’t tell you what day that was.

You know, a main argument usu-ally used for wearing a helmet is the effect a head injury will have on your own life. Well, if you’re so brave and cocksure that that argument doesn’t persuade you, think about the effect on the people around you if you die, if you can’t work, or if you spend the rest of your life (perhaps decades) as a vegetable.

The effect my fall would have on Heather was the first thought I man-aged to form in my addled brain, as soon as the paramedics had given me some kind of fabulous pain medication and as they were wheel-ing my stretcher to the waiting chopper, M*A*S*H style. I managed to think, “Well, I’m clearly going to live, but, my god, is Heather going to be OK? I wish I hadn’t done this

to her.”She was incredibly, incredibly

brave—that day and for the weeks to come—but, no, she wasn’t OK. She thought she’d seen me die, right in front of her, leaving her a widow with our 6-month-old son. She swears she couldn’t see me breath-ing for several minutes as I lay there in our ring. It’s a memory that still haunts her, and it’s why we changed our business focus from starting young horses, because I

Horse Journal’s OnCall serviceYour Own Personal Equine Consultant

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choices, veterinary concerns, or just finding a particular article on our site. E-mail us at mailto:[email protected]. We’ll help! (unless it’s about your love life. Sorry, we’ll gracefully recuse ourselves from that area).

In addition to OnCall, we have lifelong, dedicated horsemen and women directing Horse Journal’s editorial content, so you know you’re getting expert equine information. Navicular horse? You may want to talk with your veterinarian after you read Dr. Grant Miller’s discussion about Tildren, which is finally available in the U.S.!

Just getting back in the saddle after the long winter and wet spring? Three-day eventing trainer John Strassburger tells you why building strength is so important in your horses – and explains how to do it.

Simply go to www.horse-journal.com and register at the upper-right hand corner of the screen for access. Sign up for the Newsletter, too (right-hand column or top menu link), as we will notify you of new articles posted to the site via the newsletter. If you do Facebook or Twitter and follow Horse Journal, you can receive notifications of a new article the day it is posted.

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don’t get on babies for the first time anymore. I’m not going to do that do her again, if I can help it.

So, if you think your head is no-body’s problem but your own, look around you and think again. Think about your family and your close friends, and consider the effect that smashing your melon would have on them. Do you want to do that to them? I hope not.

John Strassburger,Performance Editor


Trick TrainingFrodo learned to do tricks quite quickly.

As horse crazed youngster I re-member seeing a book titled something like “Dr So and so

Book of Trick Training for Horse.” I had ordered it – a yellow paperback booklet with a drawing on the front of a gentleman in a ringmaster coat and a horse with his front feet on a wooden half-barrel. Apparently it got lost or discarded somewhere along the many moves in my life.

But when I finally got my first horse, Goldie, a palomino Half Arab, when I was 14 years old, trick training was one of the things I set out to do. Goldie was clever and that first summer I had nothing but him. No organized sports or activi-ties like kids have now, no electron-ics. I realize that may be hard to imagine for some of you!

Not knowing anything about clicker training, operant condition-ing or any of the behavior science we now have at our fingertips, I had a bunch of cut up carrots and my booklet. Looking back, I did a combination of luring and bridging. Goldie was a typical horse of the Arab persuasion – clever and a true quick study.

I started with “shake.” I would tap his lower leg with a crop lightly. As he moved his leg (sort of like responding to a fly landing on his skin) I would praise and treat. Once he moved the leg reliably on the cue of the crop touch, I started to grab the leg. Goldie picked up this idea quickly. Once he grasped the idea of picking the leg up in a forward motion, we were on it. I added the word “shake” and voila! A horse who would shake hands! Of course my blacksmith killed me on his first visit after we mastered this trick as Goldie kept trying to shake while he was working on him.

Goldie picked up other tricks. He would put his front feet up on a cut off stump. He would side pass with me standing by his shoulders. He would shake his head “yes” and “no.” He would bow. We lured that

trick with treats held down be-tween his front legs. He would give kisses. He would carry a basket by the handle.

On his own, Goldie had picked up some other tricks. He loved to snatch hats off people’s heads. He would steal anything you had hang-ing from a pocket. The blacksmith wasn’t fond of that trick either as Goldie would steal tools as he bent over. He also stole tools if my father was working around the shed.

Now fast forward many, many years. My daughter Kate decided to do operant conditioning for her science fair project. She took her Australian Shepherd, Tia; our goat, Zoom; her miniature horse, Frodo; and the older donkey, Sugar; to teach how to bow. She was armed with a clicker and Cheerios. Kate used a combination of shaping and

luring. She wanted to see which animal learned fastest, had best retention, etc.

It was fun watching the progres-sion. Tia learned quickly, but then she had had a great deal of training and this was a natural movement for her as well. Frodo also caught on quickly, too.

But Zoom was a real star – he took a bit of time to learn, but it stuck with him for years. Literally until he died if you gave him his cue he would bow. And then hassle you for his reward! Zoom would also per-form rapidly and repeatedly – clear-ly expecting a treat every time.

Sugar the donkey took the longest to learn. She would study Kate, think about what was being asked, ponder it some more and eventu-ally got the behavior. Once she learned it, she was 100% accurate on performing. Never done with much enthusiasm or speed, but very accurate.

While tricks are fun, they can also be useful. Goldie could actually carry some things for me. You could cue bends to either side or up and down as part of a physical therapy routine. If you have a horse who is stall confined, learning tricks can be mental stimulation and help to reduce stress.

There are many excellent books, DVDs and even seminars available now. Have you done any trick train-ing with your equines? Share your experiences with us!

Deb M. Eldredge, DVM, Contributing Veterinary Editor

Frodo learned to do tricks quite quickly.

devon live on UseFNetworkNeed a horse fix? USEFNetwork always has the answer.

Rough Thursday morning? Can’t wait till Saturday? We have something to perk you up from the always-awesome USEFNetwork! Live cover-age of the Devon Horse Show. Remember, there’s a $100,000 Grand

Prix coming up tonight, too. Go to: http://www.usefnetwork.com/featured/2014devon/

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014 ��

Some horses love it, while others can’t stand it. Come critics think it’s harsh but, like

any other bit, it depends upon the rider’s skill. Inexperienced hands should look elsewhere.

The Baucher bit is defined by it’s so-called “hanging cheek piece,” a metal bar that extends upward from the bit ring and attaches to the cheek piece. The reins then attach to the lower bit ring. Bauchers come in a wide variety of mouthpiec-es—single-jointed, double-jointed, happy mouth, mullen, and more.

This bit provides slightly more leverage than the average snaffle, and the design creates slight poll pressure to help adjust the frame of the horse’s head. It’s because of this leverage, and potential for poll pres-sure, that the Baucher bit is labeled by some critics as being too harsh for use in dressage, or “gimmicky” in terms of creating correct contact, flexion and submission.

But when it comes to bits, the final arbiter of their use is really the horse, and there are some compel-ling biomechanical reasons as to why, for some horses, the Baucher is actually milder than the average snaffle.

a liTTle HisTOryBaucher bits are named after Fran-cois Baucher (1796-1873), a some-what controversial master of the French classical school of dressage. He was known for a methodology that emphasized the compres-sion of the horse’s body, the lifting of the front end, and obedience. The methods used to achieve this early in his career were not always considered correct or particularly kind to the horse, but following an accident that left him permanently disabled, he refined his methods over time to emphasize the lift-

The baucher snaffle: How does it Work?It applies more leverage than an average snaffle, but many horses are quieter in it.

Should you consider the Baucher bit?

ing of the poll and response to the lightest possible aids. Although still controversial today, his theories of equine balance and lightness on the aids have become broadly accepted.

FOr seNsiTive MOUTHsWe’ve found the Baucher can be a useful bit for a horse that is particu-larly sensitive in the tongue and bars of the mouth. The hanging de-sign keeps the bit lifted from these areas, and even when strong con-tact is applied, some horses clearly find this action more comfortable than that of a traditionally placed snaffle. We also find them useful for horses with very busy mouths, as they tend to shift less in the horse’s mouth, helping keep it quieter.

Finally, the slight additional lever-age provided by the Baucher can be useful on a temporary basis on horses who have physical limita-

tions that make understanding flex-ion difficult, such as thick-throated draft types, horses being rehabili-tated mentally, or horses who have learned to lean heavily into the rider’s hands as an evasion.

The Baucher should not be used to force a false headset or frame, nor should it be used on a horse that clearly objects to it. Horses with low and/or sensitive pallets are likely to object strongly to the action of the Baucher, especially one with a single joint. It should be adjusted with slightly more give in the corners of the mouth than a traditional snaffle, and great care should be taken that it is wide enough for the horse’s mouth to ensure that the hanging cheek piece doesn’t rub.

bOTTOM liNeLike any bit, the Baucher is as harsh or soft as the hands using it—and should not be utilized by inexperienced riders who have not achieved independent hands. How-ever, deciding whether or not this bit is useful for your horse doesn’t require tremendous study. We’ve found that horses either love it, and immediately go better, or they object violently to it, throwing their heads and telling us in no uncer-tain terms they don’t care for it.

Article by John Strassburger, our Performance Editor


equine Coronavirus (eCov)Yet Another Emerging Disease

Horses with coronavirus often need iv-fluids.

Historically, equine corona vi-rus has been associated with gastrointestinal problems

in newborn foals. However from 2012 to the present, an adult form has popped up all over the country. Leave it to a virus to adapt and find new ways to infect a host! Here is the 411 on Equine Corona Virus:

What horses are at risk? This virus is non-discriminate- it

can affect horses as young as 1 year of age all the way up to 32 years or older! Most commonly it affects older horses (in the late teens and twenties). Horses in a stressful situ-ation (such as during transit, at a show, or moving to a new barn) are also at a greater risk of becoming ill.

How do horses get infected? By fecal-oral transmission. This means sniffing other horse’s ma-nure piles, sniffing the manure cart, manure fork, or being touched by the unwashed hands of a person who has been in contact with these objects can infect a horse.

How long can it stick around in

the environment? We really do not know for sure.

Therefore, feces from suspect horses should be removed from the property altogether.

Is there a time of year that it appears to be more prevalent? Equine Coronavirus has most com-monly been detected during the cold weather months (in the North-east areas) from November to May.

What are the signs associated with active infection?

AnorexiaLethargyFever (usually 104 F or higher)Soft “cow pie” feces, but rarely diarrheaMild colic (laying down; look-ing at sides)Neurologic abnormalities (ataxia, depression, recum-

••••

•

•

bency) – these occur secondary to having too much ammonia in the blood stream.Low white cell counts on blood workLow blood protein on blood work (called Hypoalbumin-emia)

What are the chances that my horse will become sick if there is another horse in my barn with the infection?

Many horses can be exposed to corona virus and not show any out-ward signs of illness. Their bodies can create an immune response and neutralize the infection. Studies show that anywhere from 20 to 60% of horses that are exposed to the virus will become clinically ill.

Can my horse die from Equine Corona virus?

Although some deaths have been reported, it is not likely going to kill your horse. Horses that die from it usually have problems from secondary complications such as dehydration, poor tissue perfusion due to low body water content, and blood borne bacterial infection sec-ondary to the viral infection. Also, high blood ammonia levels are associated with neurological signs and may result in death.

How long does it last?

•

•

Signs generally resolve in 1-4 days with supportive care and outbreaks typically last for about 3 weeks.

What does treatment involve? Affected horses are treated with Banamine and supportive care. Antibiotics are ineffective against corona virus because they do not treat viruses. Horses that are off feed or water or have severe diar-rhea should be seen by a veterinar-ian and treated with IV fluids to prevent dehydration.

Is there a vaccine available to protect my horse from the disease? Not currently.

What can I do to minimize risk of infection?

During an outbreak, affected horses should be isolated and handled/treated last or by sepa-rate personnel. In addition, stall cleaning equipment should be kept separate. Hands should be washed (or cleaned with a hand sanitizer) after handling affected horses, and stalls and equipment should be disinfected under guidance of a veterinarian. Separate boots should be worn with affected animals, and disinfectant foot baths should be used.

Early intervention is key - you do not want your horse to become dehydrated or develop high ammo-nia levels in the blood! Therefore, getting IV fluids on board early may be necessary, especially if your horse stops eating and drinking. Banamine can help keep the fever down and reduce harmful inflam-mation in the body- so get your vet out ASAP if your horse shows any suspicious signs.

See also: This report from the NYS Veterinary School at Cornell.

Grant Miller, DVM, Contributing Veterinary Editor

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014 ��

errors in veterinary MedicationsMuch of the responsibility rests on the shoulders of the horse owner.

The Center for Veterinary Medi-cine (CVM) recently released an updated report on medica-

tion errors for veterinary patients. Of course, that includes our horses. Medication errors can come about in a number of ways and cover a number of potential problems.

The error might be that the wrong medication was dispensed. Illeg-ible writing (no joke – it happens and that is why many veterinarians have now gone to digitally printed labels and prescriptions!), a tired pharmacist reading the form, two medications with similar names, etc. These are all potential acci-dents waiting to happen. Perhaps the correct medication is dispensed but at the wrong dosage. An over-dose could lead to toxicity while an under dosing might render the medication ineffective.

The CVM tries to prevent some of these mistakes before they happen. Similar drug names may require a change to better differentiate drugs. A bottle of tablets must contain cer-tain information even if the intent is to dispense portions at a time. That information includes strength, number of pills or capsules, expira-tion date, etc. Additional informa-tion is supplied on the container and the package insert.

The insert might mention a meth-od of administering the medication, potential side effects, antidotes if needed and situations where the drug would be appropriate to treat an animal. Medication labels need to be easy to read in both font, legibility and coloring. If you are purchasing a medication in bulk, the exact packaging may vary from brand to brand or with a generic vs a brand name version. The same information should be available however.

Luckily, medication errors in

equine drugs aren’t too common. Compounding a drug (see Com-pounding Pharma-cies, recent news) can add another layer of poten-tial for mistakes (remember the polo ponies with a decimal point change in their selenium supple-ment that led to many deaths) but most horses get the proper medication at the proper dose.

If you choose to use a human phar-macy, you will still need a veterinary prescription for your horse. By so doing, you are placing your trust in the hands of someone who may or may not be familiar with horses and veterinary health care. That puts more re-sponsibility on YOU to be sure the medication, dosing, etc are correct. In general, we believe you are better off using an equine pharamcy or your own veterinarian’s pharmacy.

Your responsibility as an owner is to be sure you clearly understand:

Why your horse is taking a cer-tain medication, Exactly how to dose it,Possible side effects, And to dispense the full dose for the full length of time speci-fied.

Sometimes directions are confus-ing. Should this pill be given at a dose of one pill twice a day or two pills once a day? Don’t guess. Ask your veterinarian so you give the correct amount at the correct time interval. Ask how to store a medi-cation. If it says to refrigerate, be

•

•••

careful not to leave it out in a warm tack room.

For example, many probiotics left in a warm room become ineffective. Some liquid medications will settle out or become ineffective if they freeze, while others can be safely frozen. Vaccines need to be kept at the proper temperature or they

lose their ability to create an immune response.

In addition, you should remember to:

1. Verify if a med-ication should be given with meals or in between.

2. Check expira-tion dates. If you use a medication past its expiration date you have no recourse if your horse has a reac-tion or if the medi-cation does not work properly.

With a little care and some effort on your part, medica-tion errors for your

horse can be avoided.Article by

Debra M. Eldredge, DVM, Contributing Veterinary Editor.

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014��

My Three examples Of Why you Can’t Train all Horses The same WayHorses mature and develop at their own speed and in their own ways.

At last weekend’s Woodside Horse Trials, I did something I’ve never done before—I

competed three homebred horses. It was a proudly fulfilling moment to think that we’d bred and produced all three of them here at our Phoe-nix Farm.

And these three horses are each an example of how horses mature and develop at their own speed and in their own ways. They’re a strong reminder to me that, as a rider and a trainer, you have to have your program—your method of develop-ing horses—but that it has to be a framework, not an ironclad system. Sometimes you have to be willing to wait, and sometimes you have to be willing to push ahead faster than you would ordinarily. And you often have to be willing to do some things differently or in a different way.

The horses I competed at Wood-side are:

Phoenix Amani, whom we call Amani. She’s a 7-year-old Irish-bred/Thoroughbred-cross by For-mula One, who’s in her second sea-son at preliminary but was making her first start of 2014. She recorded her seventh clear cross-country round in seven starts at this level, but she also had her best dressage test and her first clear show jump-ing round at preliminary, to finish fifth.

Phoenix Bellisima, whom we call Bella. She’s a 5-year-old Dutch Warmblood/Thoroughbred-cross, by Palladio, for whom Woodside was her third and final novice start before moving up to training at the end of June. She finished second, with effortlessly clear cross-coun-try and show jumping rounds.

Phoenix Promiscuous, whom we call Piper or Pooper. He’s a 5-year-old Hanoverian-bred gelding. Woodside was his first beginner novice start, and I thought I was going to win the dressage in the warm-up. But he had some baby anxiety in the ring, for which the judge nailed him, before recording faultless show jumping and cross-country rounds.

Here’s how they’ve been different to develop:

Amani was precocious but often disobedient as a young horse. At 3 and 4, when confronted with something new or unexpected, her immediate reaction was to rear and spin. It took work to convince her that was the wrong answer (although she’ll still do it at times). She was always a very gifted and careful jumper, but her belief that she’s the most beautiful and special girl in school and that the body beautiful must never be soiled was why she often reacted that way to jumps.

Once I convinced her that was the wrong answer when jumping (about halfway through her 4-year-old year), Amani has moved along quickly competitively. She did

beginner novice and novice at age 4, then spent her 5-year-old year do-ing training level. At the beginning of her 6-year-old year, I moved her up to preliminary.

Her weakness, though, has been dressage. It’s partly attitudinal—“I don’t want to work that hard!”—but it’s partly conformational. She has a short, uphill neck, which is great for jumping, but it makes it rather hard to get her round and working through her topline. By last fall, it was clear that she would rarely place at the upper levels if we didn’t more fully address that problem. So she spent last October through March doing almost nothing but dressage, primarily with my wife, Heather, and last weekend showed that paid off in numerous ways. De-veloping her back and topline will be a continuing work in progress.

As you can see, Bella and Piper are the same age. In fact, they were born only 17 days apart. But their progress as riding and competitive horses has been vastly different. Even though they’re both fabulous movers, they’re physically and mentally very different horses.

Basically, Bella reminds me men-tally of a sled dog—she has a very quick brain and a workhorse men-tality. She’s like an Iditarod dog, the kind where you have to be sure the sled is securely tied to a stout tree before you put on the harness, and then you better be in the sled and ready to go before you unhook the sled.

Piper is an extremely willing and kind horse, but his body has grown and matured much more slowly, and his brain works much more slowly than Bella’s. In fact, we often laugh at him, because sometimes I swear you can see the brain cells connecting and trying to form a thought.

I started competing Bella exactly a year ago, taking her to a schooling dressage show in early May (where she was very green!) and then start-ing her eventing at the introductory level at the end of June. (I wrote a blog about it then.) She then did two beginner novice events and one novice (clear cross-country in all), before she developed a cough that sidelined her completely for two

Amani was precocious but often disobedi-ent as a young horse.

Article from Horse Journal Online - www. horse-journal.com - Copyright ©2014 �7

months. Then she did her next nov-ice in April before Woodside, where she proved to me that she’s ready for bigger fences.

Basically, she has always felt, at home and in competition, as if I only had to show her how to do something once. I recall that mo-ment, the second time I took her cross-country schooling, when she grasped that cross-country is a series of jumps and began looking for the next fence and taking me there. That’s a trait that some horses take numerous events and school-ing, through months or years, to develop. It’s like endurance horses looking down the trail or cutting horses looking for the next cow.

Piper didn’t compete at all until last November, when I took him introductory, following one cross-country school and no schooling shows at all. That was because we weren’t sure what we were going to do with him. He was supposed to be the perfect horse for Heather, but we hadn’t yet accepted that he’s simply too big a mover and jumper for her back, which she’s injured several times, to handle. (That’s why we’ve now reluctantly decided to sell him.)

But, looking at Piper this week-end, standing in the stall next to Bella, I thought, “I think it was a good idea not to push him. I don’t think he was ready before this. He’s like that tall, uncoordinated boy in school—the one who trips and stumbles and can hardly run, but in his senior year becomes the star of the basketball team.”

He now looks like a handsome, mature horse, and he learned a lot about his job this weekend. I’ll be competing him again in a few weeks, and I’m really looking forward to feeling how much he’s improved.

Just for fun, I’ve included a cute video of Formula One (sire of Am-ani).


Promising New Therapy for Joint ProblemsAPS is made from the horse’s blood.

From Ohio State University and two private practices comes an interesting article

on a treatment for osteoarthritis in horses.

As reported in the February 2014 issue of the American Journal of Veterinary Research under head author Alicia Bertone, DVM, PhD, 40 horses with bony arthritis were treated with a new intra-articular joint injection therapy.

The horses in the study were divided into two groups. One group received an injection of saline into the joint. The other half received APS. APS is autologous protein so-lution made from the horse’s blood. A blood sample is drawn and then processed to concentrate plasma, white blood cell proteins and plate-let growth factors. The horses were evaluated for their lameness and gait via a treadmill, joint circum-ference measurements and range of motion exam. A full lameness exam and analysis with stationary force plates added more informa-tion. This was done for two weeks.

At the end of the two weeks, the control horses were also given APS. The owners of all the horses did follow-up at 12 and 52 weeks.

There were no problems or complications noted with the APS therapy. Results in the individual horses depended partly on how severe the arthritis was to begin with, but overall, the horses who received the APS initially did bet-ter. In addition, the good results appeared to hold up over time.

Bottom Line: More studies need to be done to fully explore this treat-ment but the take home message for owners of horses with bony arthri-tis is that there may be another effective and safe therapy in the toolbox of your veterinarian. The equipment to process the APS will need to be commercially available, but I suspect laboratories will be

Researchers constantly look for the best therapy to counter the stress we place on a horse’s front legs.

looking into it or human laborato-ries may be willing to run it as well.

Debra M. Eldredge, DVM, Contributing Veterinary Editor


When Fly Armor (www.flyarmor.net, 855-849-6242; video at www.

youtube.com/flyarmor) told us about their new product, we were all ears. It’s a system of tags and straps that you can use in various locations on your horse, including the poll, browband area, noseband area, legs, and in the mane and/or tail.

The strap comes with an open area where you insert 2 to 4 scented pads, which contain the fly repellent. The straps are re-useable and washable. Once you purchase the straps, you can just buy additional inserts, which last up to a month, if worn constantly.

The products cost $15 to $30. The replacement inserts are 2 for $6.99.The pieces attach with Velcro to your horse’s halter or bridle.

If you turn your horse out without a halter, use a strap in the mane and another in the tail for full coverage. If you turn out in a halter, always use a breakaway halter (that goes whether you use Fly Armor or not!) and use a pollband.

Field Trial. During our month-long trials of the Fly Armor system in two locations, we found the Noseband X-tra Strength (4 inserts) and Browband (2 inserts) were the most useful for our horses in turnout and riding. The Pollband was also satisfactorily effective for riding and turnout.

Our results during cooler tempera-tures were negligible, as expected, but when it was hot and humid the effect was clearly visible. We saw a noticeable decrease in face flies, mosquitoes and gnats, although the effect didn’t seem to cover the entire horse as well. The biggest decrease in pest activity was clearly around the face, ears and eyes with the nosebands and browband.

The warmer it gets, the better it works.

We were told the head is the best place for full-body protection (if you can only choose one, the noseband is best). The vapors drift best from front to back on the horse. However, you can place them in multiple areas, if needed, such as when it’s cooler.

The inserts will hold up through rain, although that will decrease their life expectancy. You can-not bathe the horse while wear-ing them. Unlike fly sprays, these products are not affected by the horse’s sweating, which is a big plus for riding and for horses who sweat easily and are turned out, as the more the horse sweats, the more flies are attracted.

HalF-HalT. Our testers agreed that the inserts are extremely potent and oily—you can’t help but notice that when you open the inserts—and we were concerned about our horses becoming irri-tated. However, none showed any reactions to the product.

Although the directions state the product is non-toxic and environ-

mentally friendly, the main ingre-dients are citronella oil and cedar-wood oil—and both are potentially irritating. The scent alone caused our testers to decline using the hu-man bands, which are made to go

on your helmet. We recommend the use of

gloves when handling the inserts. And, although we had no problems, we’d be cautious using these products on sensi-tive people or horses, especially when the strips are fresh.

We were concerned that the inserts would fall out of the sleeves, and early in our testing, we did have the poll strips slide out a bit. However, we never lost one. (Since then,

the manufacturer has improved the system to decrease the likelihood of the strips sliding out.)

We did note that the Browband isn’t that long. If your horse has a very broad forehead, it may not fit. We’d like to see the options of Warm-blood/Draft, pony and mini sizes, as well as the current average horse sizes available.

BoTTom line. We like that Fly Armor decreases fly spray use, especially around the horse’s face. And the system is more efficient than fly spray and less expensive in the long run. Tying a band into the horse’s forelock/upper mane and leaving it there for up to a month is faster than fly masks on and off every day. It’s also a viable choice for riders who don’t like to use rid-ing fly masks.

Fly Armor does best in fairly consistent warm temperatures. It re-minds us of a citronella candle. The scent isn’t as strong until you light it. The manufacturer said higher temperatures “volitilizes” the oil faster, increasing the vapor.

Overall, we were pleased with the product. It was easy to use, worked well, and you can use Fly Armor with fly masks and/or fly sheets or on its own.


Fly armor Stands Up To The Heat

Our test horses were comfortable wearing the tags. We placed them in their forelock for turnout (inset).

Product Effect

Venice TurpentineBickmorewww.bickmore.com800-356-8804

$20.98/16 oz., $1.31/oz.

Thin golden liquid with the distinctive fresh aroma of turpentine. Antiseptic, pain-relieving qualities. No barrier effect but nondrying. Stimulates soles to thicken.

Su-Per Pine TarGateway Products www.buygpdirect.com888-472-2825

$6.62/32 oz., 21¢/oz.

100% pine tar. Pine tar produced the longest lasting barrier effect in our trial, producing resilient soles and frogs, with no oversoftening of the wall even with daily use. Natural disinfectant effect.

Pine TarBickmorewww.bickmore.com800-356-8804

$6.89/16 oz., 42¢/oz.

100% pine tar in metal container, no brush. Pine tar produced the longest lasting barrier effect in our trial, producing resilient soles and frogs, with no oversoftening of the wall even with daily use. Natural disinfectant effect.

Oldies But Goodies: VeniceTurpentine,PineTarFor an all-purpose product at a great price, useful as both a routine dressing and serious help for brittle or cracking feet, it’s difficult to beat plain generic pine tar. The barrier it creates lasts at least 24 hours. There’s no softening of the hoof wall, but dry crack-ing frogs and heels show a conditioning effect.

For severely damaged feet, where microbial inva-sion is a safe bet, you can team pine tar with Venice turpentine for additional disinfectant action. Venice turpentine is a non-drying agent with a natural essential oil. Apply the Venice turpentine first, then the pine tar. You can also mix Venice turpentine into the pine tar, which also makes it more resistant to thickening in cold weather.

Bickmore’s Venice Turpentine is a staple in our test barns, but Su-Per Pine Tar from Gateway Products is a steal. We love that it comes with a brush in the lid (hoof dressings are messy enough).

Su-Per Pine Tar is nicely priced.

Hoof DressingShine is different from trying to restore hoof integrity.

For many of us, we use hoof dressing as part of groom-ing. Maybe we like the shine

or perhaps we’re fighting dryness, splits/cracks or chipping.

There are all good reasons, but choose a product guided by what you’re trying to achieve. If it’s shine, that’s one thing, but if you want to help restore hoof integrity, it’s a good idea to choose one with some antiseptic ability.

A hoof dressing is useful to help you fix problems with chipping, cracking or dryness, but it won’t cure them. The four biggest factors are:

Genetics:This is one thing you can’t change, but it doesn’t have to doom the feet to lifelong problems. You simply have to be vigilant about staying on top of the factors you can change.

Diet: The hoof contains metaboli-cally active tissue that constantly grows, repairs itself and responds to the stresses it experiences. Com-mon dietary deficiencies and imbal-ances can influence hoof quality. These include amino acids, trace minerals and vitamins.

Exercise:Like muscle, hooves strengthen with use. As little as 20 minutes per day of formal, nonstop exercise and as much turnout time as possible will stimulate hoof growth (just turnout isn’t enough).

Trims:The importance of regular farrier care can’t be overempha-sized, regardless of whether the horse is shod or barefoot. Incorrect trimming or letting the horse go too long between trims results in a hoof wall that doesn’t properly support the horse.

This causes the hoof to be loaded abnormally and can cause cracks and chips, even in otherwise healthy hooves, which is one of the many reasons we advise against do-it-yourself trimming. Shoes left on too long and the outdated practice of over rasping away ridges and rings are harmful.

Once the integrity of the hoof wall is damaged, the problem becomes self-perpetuating and worsens. Brittle, crumbling hoof wall is eas-ily invaded by bacteria and occa-sionally fungi. Once these organ-isms set up house, they continue to feed on the weakened horn and cause more damage. (Some farriers cover nail holes with a substance like beeswax to help protect the hoof wall.)

If you’re using a dressing for shine on otherwise healthy hooves, it basically sits on the surface of the wall and does little to it, as long as you avoid potentially harmful

ingredients. (Remember, a healthy hoof wall won’t absorb moisture. The frog, sole and coronet will.)

If you’re using a hoof dressing on poor-quality hoof horn, it can help replace lost barrier function. The key word here is “barrier.”

Hoof structures get most of their moisture from the body. They’re not made to be moisturized from the outside of the hoof. In fact, the outer shell is designed to withstand moisture, which is why a healthy hoof wall normally isn’t harmed by wet environments. However, hoof dressing can prevent the hoof from becoming brittle by trapping inter-nal moisture until damaged por-tions can grow out and be replaced by healthy horn.

In addition, if you’re dealing with damaged feet, even slightly dam-aged hooves, it’s important to re-member that organisms have likely

Ingredient Action

Alcohol, acetone Drying. Avoid these.

Glycerin, lanolin, polyethylene glycol

Softens/hydrates. Best for frog and coronary band. Beware of oversoftening of hoof wall.

Iodine, essential oils, phenol Disinfectant. May be mild stimulant to coronary band.

Formaldehyde, acids Disinfectants.

Vegetable oils, petrolatum Barrier function.

Venice turpentine Disinfectant. Mild growth stimulant. Analgesic to sensitive soles.

Pine tar Barrier function and disinfectant.

Vitamins and protein These are important nutrients for the hooves, but should be fed, not applied topically to the dead, keratinized layers.

Ingredients in Hoof Dressings

invaded, making ingredients with antimicrobial effects desirable.

While many hoof dressing prod-ucts claim that they improve hoof growth and circulation, usually the results are small.

It’s important to realize that:Chipping, cracking hooves usually

involve defective keratin produc-tion or an inadequate fatty/wax barrier.

Clean hooves thoroughly be-fore you apply hoof dressing. The product will adhere better and you won’t trap harmful organisms un-der the dressing.

Wet or dry environments nor-mally aren’t a major problem for healthy hooves. Manure is another story. There is a bacterial strain in manure that specifically attacks the keratin proteins in the hoof.

BOTTOMLINE. If you’re look-ing for an all-in-one product, one that will boost your horse’s natural barrier and act as a disinfectant, our favorite choices are: Animal Legends Equine Hoof Dressing, Cut Heal’s Hoof Heal, Farnam’s Rain Maker, Hooflex Original Ointment, Contender, or Sole Pack.

Product Price Best For Results

Equine Hoof Dressing/Animal Legendswww.animallegends.com800-635-2044

$18.75/32 oz., 59¢/oz.

All hooves Rich, black, pine tar based dressing with four oils, providone iodine and Venice turpentine. Easier to apply than plain pine tar but shares the good barrier effect. Arrests progression of damage.

$ Hoof Heal/Cut Heal www.cut-heal.com800-288-4325

$8.99/16 oz., 56¢/oz.

All hooves Linseed and Menhaden oils, Beeswax, Spirits of Turpentine, Balsam of Fir, oil of Vitriol. Golden color with distinctive turpentine aroma. Nice shine and excellent barrier effect, antimicrobial.

Hooflex Original Ointment/W. F. Youngwww.absorbine.com800-628-9653

$15.95/28 oz.,57¢/oz.

All hooves Petrolatum/tallow/wax/rosin base with neatsfoot oil, lanolin, turpentine, pine tar, aloe. Brown, consistency of shoe polish. Easy to apply, no greasy feel. Excellent barrier and good disinfectant properties.

Rain Maker/Farnamwww.farnamhorse.com800-234-2269

$18/32 oz., 56¢/oz.

Normal hooves

Base of neatsfoot oil, white petrolatum and pine tar with glycerin, lanolin, aloe and hydrolyzed animal protein. Good color and shine. Nice texture. Minimal antimicrobial effect.

Sole Pack DressingHawthorne Productswww.Hawthorne-producs.com765-768-6585

$16.25/16 oz. with brush, $1.01/oz.

Problem hooves

Contains pine tar and iodine. Stimulates pliable growth. Good for dry, cracking frogs, heels and soles. Not recommended for hoof walls.

EquiLife Solution4Feet/Emerald Valley Natural Healthwww.emeraldvalleyequine.com888-638-8262

$39.95/17.6 oz., $2.27/oz.

Infected hooves

Thin oil with a tea tree-like aroma. Blend of 2 natural oils, polymers and other disinfectants. Light sheen when first put on, none when dried. Prolonged drying time (5+ minutes). Primarily designed as a disinfectant, recommended to be used twice a week on healthy feet or daily for 10 days for problem feet. (to eradicate infections). Excellent disinfecting effect. Some barrier effect if used daily. Progression of horn breakdown was arrested.

Contender/Kinetic Technologieswww.kinetictech.net877-786-9882

$31/32 oz., 97¢/oz.

All hooves Very thick, black, pine-tar-based liquid with MSM, hyaluronic acid, vitamins and minerals. Suggested as a growth promotant for the coronary band, but we did not see accelerated growth. We found it is also suitable as a general hoof dressing applied over the entire hoof, and does alleviate dryness and surface cracking when used in that manner, but is rather gummy and holds shavings/dirt.

Corona Hoof/Summit Industrieswww.lexol.com800-241-6996

$18/32 oz., 56¢/oz.

All hooves Creamy, off-white consistency. Apply by hand. Softens and holds moisture, good for heels and coronary-band dryness. Has some antiseptic properties.

Cornucrescine Daily Hoof Moisturizer/ Toklat Originalswww.toklat.com888-486-5528

$33.95/14.1 oz., $2.41/oz.

Dry, cracking frogs and heel bulbs

Thick, white, water-based cream with emulsified oils, glycerin, propylene glycol, emollients. Little barrier effect, no disinfectant effect. Designed to pull moisture into dry, brittle feet, which it does do to some extent, but does not stop progression of crumbling or cracking. Good for human hands.

Cornucrescine Daily Hoof Dressing/Toklat Originalswww.toklat.com888-486-5528

$22.95/14.1 oz., $1.63/oz.

Normal hooves

Thick, gummy, golden brown liquid. Blend of mineral oil, petroleum jelly, alcohol, lanolin, water, paraffin and sassafras fragrance. No disinfection effect but a very effective barrier.

Cornucrescine Original Hoof Ointment/Toklat Originalswww.toklat.com888-486-5528

$13.50/3.3 oz., $4.09/oz.

Normal feet Rich brown paste with faint sassafras fragrance. Petrolatum, paraffin and wax base with aloe, alcohol and lanolin. No disinfectant properties but nice to apply and leaves a nice shine without being greasy or sticky. Pricey.

Farrier’s Magic/Hoof DressingBerlin Industrieswww.farriersmagic.com800-544-3635

$13.50/3.3 oz., $4.09/oz.

All hooves Petrolatum, lanolin, pine tar, Venice turpentine, cedar oil. Nice color and shine with good barrier function and inhibited chipping but potential for irritation to skin of hands, coronary band or back of pastern.

Farrier’s Magic/Natural Horse FormulaBerlin Industrieswww.farriersmagic.com800-544-3635

$6.95/6 oz., $1.58/oz.

Normal hooves, cracked heels

Light dressing. Tan liquid in pump spray bottle. Glycerine, alcohol, Canadian Willowherb, Arnica, Myrica oil with clove like odor. Light barrier action, did not have an obvious effect on damaged hooves.

Hoof Alive/Don Gregory Stableswww.hoofalive.com800-526-2999

$25.28/16 oz., $1.58/oz.

Normal hooves

Coconut, avocado, safflower, almond and wheat germ oils with lanolin, glycerin, lechithin, vitamin E. Golden yellow paste. Nice shine and good barrier effect. No antimicrobial properties. Nice for human hands and nails too.

Hoof Dressing/Fiebing’swww.fiebing.com800-558-1033

$10.90/32 oz., $0.34/oz.

Normal hooves

Mineral oil, soybean oil with a resinous hydrocarbon related to asphalt and natural creosols. Thin, dark liquid with a pleasant aroma. Produces a “semigloss” shine that lasts a few hours. Good barrier effect and potential for mild disinfection.

Hooflex Liquid/W. F. Young, Incwww.absorbine.com800-628-9653

$16.99/30 oz., 57¢/oz.

Normal hooves

Clear liquid, soybean and castor oil with lanolin base, touch of tea tree oil, arnica and comfrey extracts. Nice shine and barrier. Minimal disinfectant effect.

Hoof Lotion/Fiebing’swww.fiebing.com800-558-1033

$15.90/32 oz., 50¢/oz.

Normal hooves Blend of 3 natural oils with just enough pine tar to produce a rich brown color. Suggested application

is to the coronary band, but also suitable as a hoof dressing. No antimicrobial action.

Hoofmaker/Straight Arrowwww.manentailequine.com800-827-9815

$9.99/32 oz., 31¢/oz.

dry, cracked frogs or heel bulbs.

Thick, water-based cream with moisturizers, emollients, lanolin, oils, hydrolyzed protein, fragrances. Pump top lid. No disinfectant effect. Little barrier. May oversoften, especially damaged hooves. Nice for human hands.

Hoof Moisture/Healthy Hair Carewww.healthyhaircare.com800-253-0286

$16.95/32 oz., 53¢/oz.

Normal hooves

Clear heavy oil, with lanolin and vitamin A. Odorless. Adheres well. Light shine. No disinfection effect. Some over-softening on damaged hooves with daily use, not on normal. Available as spray, too.

Hoof Quench/Uckele Health & Nutrition www.uckele.com800-248-0330

$19.95/32 oz., 62¢/oz.

Minor problems or healthy feet

Amber thin liquid, blend of vegetable, linseed and neatsfoot oil with glycerine, turpentine, essential oils, vitamin E and iodine. Mild disinfecting properties, good barrier effect. Shine persists for a few hours. No brush top.

Jojoba Moisturizing Mist Equi-Spawww.equispa.com515-770-3517

$16/16 oz., $1/oz.

Normal hooves

Coconut, soy and Jojoba oils, soy protein, essential oils. Thin liquid in a trigger spray bottle, faint pleasant herbal aroma. Good barrier effect and nice shine. May have some antimicrobial effects but did not arrest cracking in damaged hooves.

Old Timer’s Hoof DressingHealthy Hair Carewww.healthyhaircare.com800-253-0286

$14.50/32 oz., 45¢/oz.

Normal hooves

Dark, thin oil, blend of neatsfoot and linseed oils, pine tar. Nice shine, easy to apply and not sticky. Moderate barrier effect, minimal disinfectant action. No oversoftening, but minimal protective/restoring effect for cracked, dry and sore frogs/heels.

Su-Per Hoof DressingGateway Products www.buygpdirect.com888-472-2825

$9.95/32 oz., 31¢/oz.

All hooves Thin black dressing, blend of pine tar and five natural oils, with Venice turpentine, phenol, iodine, potassium iodide, artificial coloring. Good barrier effect but less persistent than products with more pine tar. Use daily for maximum barrier effect. Some disinfection action but we would prefer not to use the harsher chemicals (phenol, iodides) with regular use.

T-HoofHealing Tree Productswww.healing-tree.com800-421-6223

$16/16 oz., $1/oz.

Dry, cracked frogs and heels

Light white cream, water-based, with emollients, moisturizers, oils including tea tree. Faint tea tree aroma. Pump top lid. Little barrier effect, must be applied multiple times a day. No shine. Did not help with chronic, crumbling hooves that were likely infected. Good for human hands.

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