Home to some of the world’s best skiers, Austria knows how ... › infodetail › flying › ...lavish spa or by the cosy fire. From €114 ($166), half-board. EAT Holzhacker Stube

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Kitzbühel, Austria’s premier ski destination

Snow fest of

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CHAMP IONSCHAMP IONSHome to some of the world’s best skiers, Austria knows how to do snow with spectacular scenery, top hospitality and plenty of

choice. Gregor Brandl samples a taste of what’s on off er.

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AUSTRIA SKI UPDATE

Skiing is a fundamental aspect of the national culture and remains a mandatory subject in many secondary schools. Professional downhillers are worshipped as national heroes, and downhill races and slaloms are the most watched programs on TV.

In fact, Austrians’ love of snow extends beyond skiing. With a population of just eight million, it is a winter sports superpower. Among the most successful countries in the history of the Winter Olympics, Austria sits at number five with a haul of 55 gold medals since 1924, ahead of much more populous rivals such as France and Canada.

Little surprise, then, that German, Dutch and, increasingly, Russian skiers and snowboarders are converging on Austria’s alpine resorts each winter. They join a larger contingent of home-grown enthusiasts to experience the superior snow conditions, high-calibre accommodation and dining options, and the lively après-ski scene. Unlike in France, English is widely spoken in Austrian resorts and there are plenty of quiet, idyllic villages to be explored. The prices in Austria are more reasonable than in Switzerland and snow conditions are more stable than in Italy. The Austrian national average snowfall is 3.3m, and the resorts enjoy up to 22m a year.

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It’s all downhill at Kitzbühel

Ischgl BEST FOR Reliable

conditions and après ski. WHERE 600km southwest of

Vienna and 200km east of Zurich. Best reached by car, Ischgl lies in the Silvretta mountains, close to the Italian and Swiss borders.

LOWDOWN Ischgl is renowned for reliable snow that makes skiing possible from the end of November to May. Being a cross-border resort, skiers can ❯

Austrians know their way down a ski slope, as you’d expect from a people who live in the middle of the Alps. You need only look at the tallies of the International Ski Federation (FIS) Alpine World Ski Championships for proof – Austria is the highest-ranking country, having amassed a total of 73 gold medals since 1931.

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SKI UPDATE AUSTRIA

hit the Austrian slopes in the morning, then cross into Switzerland after lunch.

CONDITIONS 515ha of skiable terrain comprising 238km of primed slopes. Six gondolas and 38 lifts lead to 81 trails (22 per cent easy; 60 per cent intermediate; 18 per cent difficult). One-day ski pass from €43.50 ($63).

STAY Four-star Hotel Fliana (8 Fimbabahnweg, fliana.com) has an unrivalled location between two cable car stations and is a three-minute walk from Ischgl’s centre. The 54 rooms feature flat-screen TVs, cowhide curtains and vintage photos of the region. In the hotel’s restaurant, chef Andi Spitzer enchants tastebuds with modern takes on local delicacies such as venison and wafer-thin speck on a bed of alpine herbage and caviar. A well-stocked cellar has bottles from the world’s top vineyards, but the focus is on local gems from Austrian vineyards. From €145 ($207).

EAT Paznaunerstube at the Hotel Trofana Royal (95 Dorfstrasse, trofana-royal.at) is the only Ischgl restaurant to have received a Michelin star before the French food giant suspended its Austrian edition in 2009. Chef Martin Sieberer’s light and innovative cuisine includes dishes such as asparagus salad with morel, and sweetbread marinated in walnut oil. Meals are served in a rustic, pine-panelled parlour warmed by a century-old green tiled oven. The wine cellar contains about 25,000 bottles.

DO On December 5, the annual pre-Christmas parade will light up the resort town. Krampuslauf celebrates Krampus, a beastly creature from alpine folklore who is allegedly the antagonist of Saint Nicholas. Young men from the village dress up as beasts and roam the streets, “frightening” children and visitors alike with torches, rusty chains and bells. Schnapps plays an important role.

APRÉS Partygoers head to Hexenküche (apresski-ischgl.at), a bar that attracts a young and international crowd with a wide selection of cocktails. Those who prefer things a little quieter can convene in the Schloss Lounge of Schlosshotel Romantica (romantica.at) over a glass of Champagne with cool tunes. Both the opening and closing of the season are celebrated with Top Of The Mountains concerts. (This season’s opening concert on November 30 featured Nickelback.) Entry is free with a valid ski pass.

TRY The local specialty is Tyrolean speck, a juniper-flavoured bacon usually served between slices of crusty bread.

ischgl.com

Lech & Zürs BEST FOR Champagne

powder and spring snow. WHERE 600km west of

Vienna and 200km east of Zurich, Lech and its higher neighbour, Zürs, 5km away, sit at the heart of the Arlberg ski region in Vorarlberg, the westernmost part of Austria. A train from Zurich to St Anton, 15km from Zurs, takes two hours, 20 minutes, tickets from €19 ($28).

LOWDOWN The Dutch royal family has spent its winter vacation here for decades.

CONDITIONS A network of 79 lifts and gondolas connects more than 100 runs across 693ha of skiable terrain that makes up the Arlberg ski area, with the ❯ PH

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Reliable conditions at Ischgl; relax in the sun at Zürs (above left)

OPENING AND CLOSING OF THE SEASON ARE

CELEBRATED WITH TOP-OF-THE-MOUNTAIN CONCERTS

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SKI UPDATE AUSTRIA

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vast majority of runs suitable for beginner and intermediate skiers. In addition to 280km of marked slopes, there are 180km of deep snow descents with an average depth of 120cm. Champagne powder is in abundance in January and February, and spring skiing is also popular when the northern hillsides are still coated with powder and there is creaky firn (granular, spring snow) on the southern side. One-day ski pass €48 ($70).

STAY Thurnher s Alpenhof (6763 Zürs am Arlberg, thurnhers-alpenhof.at) is a family-run, five-star gem in operation for 47 years. A member of the Leading Hotels of the World group, the hotel has 14 rooms and 24 suites and is the preferred destination of entrepreneurs, investment bankers and members of Austria’s aristocracy. Staff are happy to organise heli-skiing tours for guests. From €380 ($551), half-board.

EAT Fux (587 Omesberg, Lech am Arlberg, fux-mi.net) is regarded as the best restaurant in the area thanks to its Asian-French fusion cuisine. Chef Peter Brandner’s steaks are legendary.

TRY Locals swear by Leberkäse, a spicy meatloaf best served in a bun. Sample it at premium snack bar Hagen’s Dorfmetzgerei (134 Dorf, beim Schlosskopflift, Lech am Arlberg).

lech-zuers.at

Schladming BEST FOR Families and the

nightly slalom spectacle. WHERE 300km southwest

of Vienna and 220km southeast of Munich. Schladming lies in the Dachstein Mountains in Styria. It is just an hour’s drive from Salzburg airport and can be reached by train from Vienna or Munich in less than four hours, tickets from €19 ($28).

LOWDOWN Schladming is

popular with families. There are many attractions for younger skiers and boarders including a fairytale snow park and child-friendly learn-to-ski classes. Some €400m ($580m) was invested in infrastructure to prepare Schladming for the 2013 FIS Alpine World Ski Championships, an event held in February.

CONDITIONS Part of Austria’s largest ski alliance, Ski Armadé, Schladming-Dachstein, known as the Schladming 4-Mountain ski area, has 232km of trails serviced by 98 lifts, including 11 gondolas. The area is geared towards beginners (35 per cent) and intermediates (60 per cent), with a handful of difficult runs for experts. Smaller ski resorts can be found nestled around nearby picturesque villages such as Rittisberg, where on weekdays the slopes are all but empty. While there is no gondola, Rittisberg’s lifts can be used with a Schladming pass. A one-day

Schladming-Dachstein ski pass is €46 ($67).

STAY Four-star Falkensteiner Hotel Schladming (613 Europaplatz, Schladming, falkensteiner.com) is brand-new, has 130 rooms and suites, and is a five-minute walk to the gondola. After a day out on the mountain, relax in the lavish spa or by the cosy fire. From €114 ($166), half-board.

EAT Holzhacker Stube (59 Harreiterweg, Rohrmoos-Fastenberg) is located in a rustic timber house set directly on the slopes in the neighbouring village of Rohrmoos. Chef Peter Pichler often invites guests to join him for a glass of wine by the stove in the kitchen before sitting them down to a three- or four-course set menu that changes daily. For something more avant-garde, Die Tischlerei (676 Roseggerstrasse, Schladming, dietischlerei.co.at) is upscale yet relaxed. Expect dishes such as porcini consommé and apple pie and ice-cream. ❯

Lech, in the heart of the Arlberg ski region

AT THE MAUSEFALLE, PROFESSIONAL DAREDEVILS SKI-JUMP FOR UP TO 60 METRES

SKI UPDATE AUSTRIA

DO The most absorbing run of the season is the Nightrace, the Men’s World Cup Night Slalom (January 28, 2014). This annual event attracts crowds of 50,000 and makes a sports arena out of the entire torch-lit town as the finish line to the 600m track is right in Schladming. For an after-dark sled ride, head to Hochwurzen, a 10-minute drive west of Schladming. The illuminated 7km track is open 7.30-11.30pm; €15 ($22). Oenophiles should make sure they visit during the Ski & Wine festival (March 15-22, 2014) where they can discover various delights from the local cellars. The focus is on Styrian wines such as yellow muskateller (muscat), a fruity white with a flowery bouquet, and reds from Burgenland such as zweigelt, a full-bodied wine with soft tannins and notes of morello cherry.

TRY Kürbiskernöl is a dark-green oil made from pumpkin seeds used by Styrians as a salad dressing.

schladming-dachstein.at

Kitzbühel BEST FOR Luxury and

glamour. WHERE 80km from Salzburg,

130km south of Munich, 370km from Vienna. The train route from Vienna to Salzburg was recently transformed into a high-speed track, cutting travel time to two and a half hours. Tickets are from €24 ($34) one-way and there is a local train between Salzburg and Kitzbühel.

LOWDOWN Kitzbühel is the Aspen of Austria; a favourite hub of the rich and famous. Formula One champion Sebastian Vettel is a regular visitor and many luxury goods brands are represented in Kitzbühel’s shopping precinct.

CONDITIONS 170km of groomed piste with 60 runs – 40 per cent easy, 45 per cent intermediate and the remainder difficult. In the past year alone, €20m ($29m) has been invested in refurbishing and expanding the lift system, which includes 27 chairlifts and 10 gondolas, as well as a fully

automated snowmaking system, making it possible to ski until May. One-day ski pass from €42.50 ($62).

STAY Relais & Châteaux Tennerhof (26 Griesenauweg, tennerhof.com) is Kitzbühel s smallest and most intimate five-star accommodation, with 39 individually designed rooms offering mountain views. Rooms contain hand-carved antiques and handpainted four-poster beds featuring motifs from local folklore. From €299 ($434).

EAT Restaurant Schwedenkapelle (67 Klausenbach) offers traditional Tyrolean cuisine with a modern touch. Three courses from €65 ($94).

DO Kitzbühel’s Hahnenkamm downhill ski race (January 25, 2014; hahnenkamm.com) attracts 100,000 visitors each year. The most spectacular view is from the grandstand at the Mausefalle (Mousetrap), where professional daredevils ski-jump for up to 60m. Apart from the weekend of this event, the track can be used by regular, experienced skiers.

kitzbuehel.com

Kitzbühel: the Aspen of Austria

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