Gearbox Class

A Common-Sense Guide to

82/70 Westinghouse and GE Type

MOTOR and

GEARBOX maintenance

Presented by

Bowl

New England and

QubicaAMF

2

COMBINATION Identification 12 Disassembly 13 Inspection 14 Parts Replacement 15 Assembly & Testing 16 Wiring 18

BACK-END Identification 3 Disassembly 4 Inspection 6 Parts Replacement 7 Assembly & Testing 8 Wiring 10

Table of Contents

The main subassemblies of the AMF 82/70 pinspotter are oper-ated by three motor-gearbox units.

One unit, known as the back-end motor, is mounted in the back corner of the pinspotter. It is spe-cific to either the odd (RH) or even (LH) lane. The carpet sys-tem, ball lift system, pin elevator, and pin distributor are all oper-ated by the back-end (BE) motor.

The other two units, mounted on the front of the machine, are known as combination motors because they are interchangeable with each other. One combina-tion (combo) motor drives the sweep assembly, while the other drives the table. Electrically, the combo mo-tor is distinctive in two ways: It is equipped with a five-terminal connection, which facilitates the ability of the motor to operate in reverse when necessary. The reverse wiring connection is also

essential to the second unique feature of the combo motor, brak-ing. Capacitors are used to both start and stop the motor at precise moments.

There were three companies that supplied motors to AMF dur-ing 82/70 production.

Machines built between 1962 and 1970 were equipped with General Electric motors. These are distinguished by the oval vent holes in their frame and their short endbell.

Production from 1970 to 1989 used Westinghouse motors. In 1986, A.O. Smith company ac-quired the fractional horsepower motor division of Westinghouse. Motors manufactured after that time are labeled A.O. Smith, though they are the same me-chanically and electrically. West-inghouse/A.O. Smith motor frames do not have vent holes and their endbell is

thicker than the GE. GE and Westing-house units are characterized by the rotor and worm shaft being one contiguous part, thus necessitating

that the rotor stay with the gearbox in normal

service.

A third motor company, Matsu-shita, made motors and gear-boxes for pinspotters that were built in Japan in the late 1960’s and 1970’s. These units are com-

monly known as “National” motors. As bowling fell out of favor in Japan in the late 1970’s and 1980’s, many of these machines were ex-ported from Japan, creating a significant presence of Na-tional motors and gearboxes

worldwide. Whereas GE and Westinghouse designs are very similar and use many of the same components, National motors and gearboxes are completely unique. The defining feature of National motors is that the rotor output shaft has a keyed interface with the worm shaft in the gearbox, allowing the entire motor to be easily removed from the gearbox for service.

As sales volume of re-placement parts de-creased, both GE and Matsushita eventually discontinued all unique replacement parts. To-day, Westinghouse/A.O. Smith is the only 82/70 motor type for which there are genuine origi-nal equipment manufac-turer (O.E.M.) replace-ment parts available.

82/70 Motors in a Nutshell

Westinghouse Back-End Motor & Gearbox

Westinghouse Combo Motor & Gearbox

GE Logo

Westinghouse Logo

3

BACK-END

PARTS IDENTIFICATION

The BE motor operates on

_______________ Volts at

__________Cycles (Hertz).

It is a capacitor-start motor

with a set of contacts me-

chanically operated by the

“governor,” also known as the

_______________________

switch and mechanism.

Rotor / Worm Shaft 785 501 666L (even) 785 501 666R (odd)

Stator 785 501 663

Centrifugal Switch 785 501 384 (new style) 785 501 664 (old style)

End Bell 785 501 015

Capacitor 743 000 015

Bull & Pinion Gears

Wheel Gear

Distributor Gear

Oil Tray

Distributor Shaft Seal 716 503 022

Output Shaft Seal 716 503 023

(same on both shafts)

Worm Shaft Seal 716 501 009

Dist. Cap Gasket 785 501 108

Offset Cover Gasket 785 501 106

Centrifugal Mechanism 785 502 300 (new style) 785 501 665 (old style)

Motors consist of two major parts:

The part of the motor that stays in one place is called the

__________________________________________.

The part of the motor that rotates is called the

__________________________________________.

Old style rotors (circle one) are / are not

compatible with new style stators.

Klixon Guard 785 501 469

Klixon 785 501 394

Motor Throughbolts 785 501 022

Worm Shaft Nut 838 866 002BG

Motor-Gearbox Adaptor

Wheel Shims

Part numbers shown are for Westinghouse type only.

4

□ Remove the stator, take care not to lose the Belleville washer.

□ Pop the endbell loose from the stator frame.

□ Blow accumulated dust out the wind-ings, rotor, and vent areas.

BACK-END

DISASSEMBLY

Back-End Disassembly □ Remove pulleys, dist. drive housing, and shaft keys.

□ Drain the gearbox oil.

□ Remove wheel cap screws and gently pry cap loose using a screwdriver. Remove shaft assembly.

□ Remove and clean shims, set them aside for reuse.

□ Remove oil tray. □ Remove cap from shaft, wipe all parts. □ Remove shaft seal from cap. □ Clean old sealant off of all registers.

□ Tip gearbox forward, remove the offset cover screws, and pry cover loose us-ing a screwdriver. Remove shaft ass’y.

□ Tap cover off of bearing, wipe all parts. □ Remove shaft seal from cover. □ Scrape off and discard gasket, clean old sealant off of both registers.

5

BACK-END

DISASSEMBLY

□ Set the gearbox on it’s open end and remove the motor adaptor casting.

□ Remove the distributor cap screws and pry cap loose using a screwdriver. Re-move shaft assembly.

□ Tap cap off of bearing, wipe all parts. □ Remove shaft seal from cap. □ Scrape off and discard gasket, clean old sealant off of both registers.

□ Wearing gloves and working in a well-ventilated area (outside is good), thor-oughly clean all sealing surfaces with a clean towel and mild petroleum thin-ning agent such as mineral spirits.

□ Put a screwdriver between the rotor fan blades through the openings in the adaptor casting. Loosen but do not re-move the worm gear nut.

□ Tap the worm gear nut until the rotor and worm slide forward. Remove the nut, pinion gear, and spacer. Remove the worm gear.

□ Remove worm seal from gearbox. □ Wipe all parts, including brass bushing and surrounding area.

6

BACK-END

INSPECTION

Motor Rotor □ Check the end bell bearing for smooth op-eration, resistance to spin, and solid mount to shaft.

□ Operate centrifugal mechanism. Check for loose parts, binds, and solid mount to shaft.

Gearbox □ File off any burrs or sharp edges on mating registers.

□ Make sure that each screw hole has good threads.

□ Add a small amount of oil through the top plug. Be sure it drips through the brass bushing oil hole (acceptable range for this hole is between 10:00 and 2:00 position).

□ Test smooth operation of worm shaft ball bearing.

□ Clean all interior surfaces that can be reached, note any debris or shavings.

Motor End Bell □ Inspect bearing register for wear. □ Inspect contact points for carbon and pitting, and inspect wires for pinching and cracks.

□ Check Klixon continuity and cracks/breaks. Check Klixon Guard for bending/crushing.

□

Motor Stator □ Compare terminal board with another unit to be sure motor is wired correctly.

Shaft Assemblies □ Spin each bearing and check for smooth operation.

□ File off any burrs or sharp edges on mat-ing registers.

□ Note any scoring/grooves on shafts so that new seals can be pressed to a new depth.

□ Inspect wheel for tooth wear and sharp edges. This indicates bad cap shimming.

Critical Inspection Points Back-End Motor & Gearbox □ Carefully look for any inconsistency in

winding construction. □ Discharge capacitor safely and test per electrical class instructions.

Windings Switch Contact Points

Scoring/Groove from old seal

7

BACK-END

PARTS REPLACEMENT

Seals □ Clean seal registers thoroughly. □ Lay cap on a flat surface and set new seal on top of cap opening. Lay a flat piece of wood on top of seal.

□ Hold wood in place while tapping squarely down in center of seal until it is flush with cap surface.

□ If shaft is scored or grooved from old seal, select a socket that will just fit into seal opening and carefully use it to tap seal fur-ther until seal will mate with a good spot on the shaft.

□ Wrap shaft keyways and other edges with Teflon tape. Coat shaft and inner face of seal with oil.

□ While mating shaft with seal, be sure that seal lip doesn’t get folded outward.

Centrifugal Mechanism □ It is imperative that the rotor-worm shaft be kept absolutely straight. For this reason, it is often easier to replace bearings and mechanisms while the shaft is mounted in the gearbox.

□ Use a puller to remove the bearing and col-lar if present.

□ Some mechanisms are held in place by snap rings. All that needs to be done is to remove the outboard ring and slide the mechanism off the shaft, then slide the new one into place.

□ For press-fit mechanisms, remove all mov-ing parts of the mechanism. If a removed part is the problem, assemble new mecha-nism parts to remaining collar. Otherwise, mark the position of the inboard edge and remove using a puller.

□ Remove all moving parts from new mecha-nism and tap collar onto shaft with a deep-well socket to your mark. Reassemble mechanism. If the shaft has been dam-aged and cannot support the mechanism, you will either need to replace the rotor-worm shaft or replace the mechanism with a solid state switch (see page 11).

It is easy to ruin new seals if proper pre-cautions are not taken. Name 3 ways to prevent damage to seals during assembly. 1.________________________________ 2.________________________________ 3.________________________________

8

BACK-END

ASSEMBLY & TESTING

Back-End Motor & Gearbox Assembly & Testing □ Run a bead of sealant around the shoulder of the register on the distributor cap and stick gasket (785 501 108) onto the seal-ant. Surround each distributor cap screw hole with a thin film of sealant.

□ Position the screwdriver slots on the cap toward the sides of the gearbox and install the distributor shaft assembly. Use new split washers (951 138 000BG) if desired and install screws in a star pattern. DO NOT OVERTIGTEN. Use only enough torque to flatten the split washers. The shaft should turn easily by hand; if not tap it directly on its end.

□ Surround each motor adaptor screwhole with a thin film of sealant and install the adaptor. Tighten in a star pattern with the same torque as the distributor cap screws.

□ Thoroughly lubricate the brass bushing, worm shaft seal, and thick section of the worm shaft with gear oil.

□ Make sure pinion gear key (907 200 100) is seated in the worm keyway and install the rotor-worm shaft.

□ Install the spacer and pinion gear so that the groove faces the pinion gear.

□ Put a screwdriver between the rotor fan blades through the openings in the adaptor casting and tighten worm shaft nut (838 866 002BG). Remove screwdriver.

Bearings and Gears □ All bearings and gears have a press-fit with the shafts. If a bearing or gear can be removed by hand, there is too much wear.

□ The offset output (carpet drive) gears are a bull-and-pinion type gearset. If one is damaged, both must be replaced or the damage will transfer to the new gear dur-ing operation.

□ Use a puller to remove gears and bear-ings. When replacing gears, always re-place keys. New keys should be tapped into place on the shaft before gears.

□ Use wood blocks to tap bearings and gears into place. Be sure that gears and bearings are pressed flush with the mating registers.

□ If it is necessary to replace the brass bushing: Tap the old bushing out with a long punch through the gearbox. In se-vere cases it may be necessary to cut through the bushing with a hacksaw blade. When installing new bushing, make sure oil hole is between 10:00 and 2:00 posi-tion, and tap into gearbox evenly until the sound of the impacts changes. This indi-cates that the bushing is properly seated.

□ If it is necessary to replace the worm ball bearing: Remove the outside snap ring and tap the old bearing out with a long punch through the motor end of the gear-box. Tap the outer race of the new bear-ing evenly until the sound of the impacts changes and reinstall the snap ring.

Oil Fill Hole

Brass Bushing

Gearbox

Oil Reservoirs

Hole at 2:00

9

BACK-END

ASSEMBLY & TESTING

□ Place Belleville washer in the end bell’s bearing register and install stator onto ro-tor.

□ Add gear oil to top fill hole and to worm shaft ball bearing.

□ Run motor for about 30 seconds and ob-serve operation. If the motor grumbles, it may be necessary to adjust the position of the stator with tapping to it’s sides and/or throughbolt torque adjustment.

□ Lay gearbox so wheel opening faces up and install oil tray.

□ Run a bead of sealant around the shoulder in the wheel cap opening and each screw hole on the gearbox. Install shims.

□ Install the wheel shaft assembly with the screwdriver tabs (if present) horizontal. As the cap is tightened, the side-to-side play in the shaft should diminish until it is just eliminated when the cap is fully seated. Tighten screws in a star pattern.

□ If it is necessary to reshim the wheel cap, remember that the purpose of shimming is to align the wheel with the worm and prop-erly load the roller bearings. Shimming is a trial-and-error process.

□ Position oilcan dispenser so that it feeds where the wheel gear meets the worm and operate the motor. Pump oil into the gear interface continuously while the motor is running. Run motor for about 30 seconds and observe operation.

□ Tip gearbox so that it is resting on two feet and the end bell. Add 1 pt. Gear Oil (715 021 716). The oil level should just come to the corner of the gearbox casting.

□ Run a bead of sealant around the shoulder on the offset cover and stick ONE gasket (785 501 106) onto the sealant. On the gearbox opening, surround each scre-whole with sealant and bead between the top four screws.

□ Install the offset shaft assembly, tighten screws in a star pattern. Right gearbox and run motor for about 1 hour. Observe operation, temperature, sound, and leaks. With no load, a grumbling is normal from the bull and pinion gears, but the noise should mostly be eliminated by holding a rag against the carpet drive shaft as it turns. If excessive gear noise persists un-der load, add the second offset cover gas-ket.

□ Install keys in output shafts and install dis-tributor drive housing as close as possible to cap without touching it. Leave pulleys loose for final alignment with driven parts on the pinspotter. KEEP FINGERS CLEAR OF DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE HOUS-ING WHEN MOTOR IS PLUGGED IN!

Gap as small as possible.

Keep hands clear!

Sealant Beads

10

BACK-END

WIRING

1. When the motor is stopped or operating below it’s normal RPM, the start winding and capacitor are not powered.

TRUE FALSE 2. When the motor is operating at it’s normal RPM, the centrifugal mechanism is collapsed.

TRUE FALSE

Klixon

Capacitor

Start Wdg.

Main Wdg.

3

1

Blue

Black

Blue

Yellow

Red

Black

Black

L1

4

L2

2

Connect reversing leads to terminals marked with arrows. Connect flags to terminals 2 & 4 with leads headed toward nearest wall of conduit box.

Connect leads for rotation: Rotation Connect CCW Blk-2, Red-4 CW Blk-4, Red-2

L1

4

L2

2 3

1

Klixon

Capacitor Start Wdg.

Main Wdg.

Blue

Yellow

Red

Black Black

Brown

Connect leads for rotation: Rotation Connect CCW Blk-2, Red-4 CW Blk-4, Red-2

Connect reversing leads to terminals marked with arrows. Connect flags to terminals 2 & 4 with leads headed toward nearest wall of conduit box.

Westinghouse BE Wiring - Old & New style

11

Terminal Board

Capacitor

Stator— Windings

Blue

Black

Black

Black*

Black

Red

Solid State Switch

L2

L1

Plug

Black

White

Yellow

Blue

Red*

2

Terminal Board

Capacitor

Stator— Windings

L2

Plug Blue

Black

Black* Black

Black Blue

Red

Black

Red*

Yellow

White

2

R.H. (Odd) Pinspotter

L.H. (Even) Pinspotter

610 309 046 Solid State Switch

Westinghouse/AOS Instructions

Thicker Black Wire: Move the flag terminal that was connected to contact at top corner of board.

Thicker Black Wire: Move the flag terminal that was connected to contact at top corner of board.

Thinner Black Wire: Cut off the flag terminal that was connected to capacitor.

Thinner Black Wire: Cut off the flag terminal that was connected to capacitor.

To reverse rotation, swap leads marked with *

L1

Solid State Switch

Solid State Switch

Black

Blue

Klixon

•Remove and discard the black wire crimped onto the back side of the board.

•Be sure all wires are clear of rotor and will not be pinched during assembly.

4

Black

Blue

Klixon

•Remove and discard the black wire crimped onto the back side of the board.

•Be sure all wires are clear of rotor and will not be pinched during assembly.

4

12

COMBINATION

PARTS IDENTIFICATION

Rotor Shaft 785 501 242

Stator 785 501 075

Centrifugal Switch 785 501 384 (main) 785 501 664 (aux)

End Bell 785 501 031

Wheel Gear Centrifugal Mechanism 785 501 568

Klixon 785 501

Motor Throughbolts 785 501 023

Wheel Shims

Ring Gear

Worm Shaft Nut 838 669 002BG

Sun Gear

Wheel Cap

Helical Gear 785 501 134

Spindle 785 501 287

Bushing 785 501 653

Worm Gear Some parts have two names.

Draw lines to match the terms: Klixon Stator Head Helical Gear Cage Thermal Protector Terminal Board Switch Planet Gear Output Shaft

Part numbers shown are for Westinghouse type only.

Though most gearboxes have a 12.1 RPM output, a 14.5 RPM version was made for a few years too. These can be used on the sweep when a 12.1 gear-box is on the table, but not vice-versa. The difference is the worm gear and wheel gear.

Output Shaft

785 501 048

13

COMBINATION

DISASSEMBLY

Combo Disassembly □ Drain the gearbox oil. □ Lay the unit with the output shaft facing up. □ Remove the four screws and tap the ring gear flanges until it breaks loose from the gearbox. Remove the ring gear.

□ Remove the output shaft assembly, wipe all exposed parts.

□ Clean old sealant off of both registers.

□ Rotate the gearbox so that the wheel cap is facing up, support the other side with a piece of wood.

□ Remove the screws and keep them sepa-rate from the ring gear screws. Gently pry the cap loose with a screwdriver.

□ Remove wheel gear assembly, wipe all ex-posed parts.

□ Remove and clean shims, set them aside for reuse. Clean old sealant off of both reg-isters.

□ Right the gearbox and remove the stator. Take care not to lose Belleville washer.

□ Pop the endbell loose from the stator frame.

□ Blow the accumulated dust out of the wind-ings, rotor, and vent areas.

□ Remove the screws from the cap using a 1/4” drive ratchet handle, 5/16 socket, and combination wrench. It may be necessary to attach the socket to the ratchet handle after putting the ratchet head inside the casting.

□ Once all four screws are removed, pry the cap up from the gearbox with a small screwdriver.

14

COMBINATION

INSPECTION

Critical Inspection Points Combo Motor & Gearbox

Motor End Bell □ Inspect bearing register for wear. □ Inspect contact points on switch(es) for carbon and pitting, and inspect wires for pinching and cracks.

□ Check Klixon continuity and cracks/breaks. □ Check motor receptacle and wires for solid connections.

Motor Stator □ Compare terminal board(s) with another unit to be sure motor is wired correctly.

□ Carefully look for any inconsistency in wind-ing construction.

Shaft Assemblies □ Spin each bearing and planet gear and check for smooth operation.

□ Inspect output shaft splines for wear and sharp edges. These splines must be in good condition or damage to the sweep or table driveshaft will result.

□ Carefully inspect teeth on sun gear and planet gears, look for wear & broken teeth.

□ Inspect wheel gear, look for sharp edges. □ Make sure bottom spacer on rotor shaft is tapered toward small bearing at the end.

□ Check wheel gear for wear and sharp edges. This may indicate that the cap needs to be reshimmed.

Caps and Ring Gear. □ File off any burrs or sharp edges on mat-ing registers.

□ Note any scoring/grooves on shafts so that new seals can be pressed to a new depth.

□ Carefully inspect seals, look for hardening and cracks.

□ Carefully inspect teeth on ring gear, look for wear & broken teeth.

Motor Rotor □ Check the end bell bearing for smooth op-eration, resistance to spin, and solid mount to shaft.

□ Operate centrifugal mechanism. Check for loose parts, binds, and solid mount to shaft.

□ Test smooth operation of worm shaft ball bearing.

Gearbox □ File off any burrs or sharp edges on mating registers.

□ Make sure that each screw hole has good threads.

□ Clean all interior surfaces that can be reached, note any debris or shavings.

□ Lift the rotor out of the gearbox. If it will not lift out easily, use two screwdrivers to pry up on the bottom of the worm gear.

□ Clean old sealant off of both registers.

□ Wearing gloves and working in a well-ventilated area (outside is good), thor-oughly clean all sealing surfaces with a clean towel and mild petroleum thinning agent such as mineral spirits.

15

COMBINATION

PARTS REPLACEMENT

Seals □ While BE gearbox seals should be replaced during each rebuild, combo gearbox seals are less prone to leaks and should only be replaced when necessary.

□ Clean seal registers thoroughly. □ Lay cap on a flat surface and set new seal on top of cap opening. Lay a flat piece of wood on top of seal.

□ Hold wood in place while tapping squarely down in center of seal until it is flush with cap surface.

□ Coat shaft and inner face of seal with oil. Centrifugal Mechanism □ It is imperative that the rotor-worm shaft be kept absolutely straight. For this reason, it is often easier to replace motor bearings and centrifugal mechanisms while the shaft is mounted in the gearbox.

□ Use a puller to remove the bearing and col-lar if present.

□ Remove all moving parts of the mecha-nism. If a removed part is the problem, as-semble new mechanism parts to remaining collar. Otherwise, mark the position of the inboard edge and remove using a puller.

□ Remove all moving parts from new mecha-nism and tap collar onto shaft with a deep-well socket to your mark. Reassemble. If the shaft has been damaged and cannot support the mechanism, you will either need to replace the rotor-worm shaft or re-place the mechanism with a solid state switch (see page 19) or other switching de-vice.

Bearings and Gears □ All bearings have a press-fit with the shafts. If a bearing can be removed by hand, there is too much wear.

□ In order to reduce the output speed and in-crease load bearing ability, the system em-ploys a sun-planet type gearset. If one gear is damaged, the sun gear, planet gears, and ring gear must all be replaced or the damage will transfer to the new gears during operation.

□ Use a puller to remove gears and bearings. When replacing gears, always replace keys. New keys should be tapped into place on the shaft before gears.

□ Use wood blocks to tap bearings and gears into place. Be sure that gears and bearings are pressed flush with the mating registers.

□ If replacing a component on the rotor shaft, reinstall all components together to avoid extra work. There is a tapered end on one of the shaft spacers - this end mates against the small bearing at the end of the shaft.

16

COMBINATION

ASSEMBLY & TESTING

Combo Motor & Gearbox Assembly & Testing □ Seat rotor/worm shaft firmly into gearbox; be sure shaft spins freely. Lubricate ball bearing with gear oil.

□ Place Belleville washer in the endbell’s bearing register and install stator onto gear-box. Run motor for about 30 seconds and observe operation. If the motor grumbles, it may be necessary to adjust the position of the stator with tapping to it’s sides and/or throughbolt torque adjustment.

□ Lay unit with cap opening up, support other side with a piece of wood. Install wheel shaft assembly so that sun gear end of shaft points away from you.

□ Run a bead of sealant around the shoulder on the gearbox register and install the shims. Surround each screwhole in the cap with a thin layer of sealant.

□ Use new split washers (951 148 002BG) and install cap with oil plug at the top. Start the screws but do not tighten them yet.

□ Right the gearbox and move the sun gear back and forth. As the cap is tightened, the side-to-side play in the shaft should dimin-ish until it is just eliminated when the cap is fully seated. It may be necessary to gently tap the cap in order to keep it straight as it is tightened. Tighten screws in a star pat-tern.

□ Position oilcan dispenser so that it is where the wheel gear meets the worm and oper-ate the motor. Pump oil into the gear inter-face continuously while the motor is run-ning. Run motor for about 30 seconds and observe operation.

□ If it is necessary to reshim the wheel cap, remember that the purpose of shimming is to align the wheel with the worm and prop-erly load the roller bearings. In extreme cases, it may be necessary to knock the inner bearing race out of the gearbox and shim it out with 785 501 300 shims.

□ Use new split washers (951 138 000BG) and put the small screws in the rotor cap. When all four are in the cap, lower the cap into place and tighten the screws in a star pattern. No sealant is necessary on this cap.

□ Lay the gearbox on the wheel cap side and support it with a wood block. Add 1 pint gear oil (715 021 716), covering the pro-truding sun gear. The oil should just come to the inner ribbing in the gearbox.

17

COMBINATION

ASSEMBLY & TESTING

□ Run a bead of sealant around the mating register shoulder on the ring gear and in-stall it with the flat edge toward the back of the gearbox. Use new split washers (951 148 002BG) and tighten in a star pattern.

□ Right the gearbox and run the motor for about 1 hour. Observe operation, tem-perature, sound, and leaks. The relation-ship of the sun gear, planet gears, and ring gear can sometimes be the source of ex-cessive noise. In this case, shim 785 501 304 can be used.

□ Before installing on a machine, coat the output shaft splines with anti-seize com-pound. This increases spline service life and makes it much easier to remove the gearbox in the future.

Options for test-running combo motors

Unlike a backend motor, a combo motor can’t be plugged into a wall outlet at the workbench and expected to run. There are two ways to test combo motors during the assembly proc-ess: □ Carry the unit to the front of an end lane that isn’t going to be used. With the unit sitting on the front wireway cover, the table motor cable should be long enough to reach the motor plug.

□ The preferable option is to build a combo motor tester, as shown on page 19 of the 82/70 Electrical Manual (610 000 009).

18

COMBINATION

WIRING

List three mechanical causes of combo motor coasting:

________________________________

________________________________

________________________________

List three electrical causes of combo motor coasting:

________________________________

________________________________

________________________________

List three electrical causes for combo motor overload (Klixon pop):

________________________________

________________________________

________________________________

Circle the first 3 troubleshooting steps for most combo motor

problems:

Change the chassis

Replace the carpet

Run the motor with the cam switch lever

Replace the motor stator

Freak out

What do you learn from running the motor with the cam switch lever?

(circle one)

A. Which lever runs the motor

B. How far you can stretch those little springs before they’re ruined

C. If the problem is with low voltage or

high voltage.

Klixon

3

1

2

6

3

4

Black

Yellow

Red

Blue

Purple

Brown

Black

Black

Start Wdg.

Main Wdg.

Westinghouse Combo Wiring

19

Stator— Windings

Blue

Black

Black

Black

Red

Solid State Switch

Bro

wn

*

Yellow

Blue Red

Terminal Board

Stator— Windings

Blue

Red

Black

Blue

Black

Black Red

Yellow

White

Brown

Violet

•Remove and discard both wires crimped onto the back side of the board.

•Auxiliary switch may be removed.

•Be sure all wires are clear of rotor and will not be pinched during assembly.

6

Klixon

X

Y Z

CT

■ R-S Plug Viewed from Top

2

3 4

1

Solid State Switch

Brown

Brown

Yellow

Black Red

Red

Terminal Board

General Electric Instructions

X

Y Z

CT

■ R-S Plug Viewed from Top

Brown

Yellow

Black

Red

Westinghouse/AOS Instructions

610 309 044 Solid State Switch

for 82/70 Combination Motors

2

4

Klixon Violet

Remove Brown* wire from here

Brown

White

Be sure all wires are clear of rotor and will not be pinched during assembly.

3

Solid State Switch

5 1

20

NOTES:

Complete Motor & Gearbox Assemblies

GE units can be used as cores to exchange for rebuilt units. Rebuilt units are completely rebuilt and include a new motor and worm gear. They have a 90-day warranty.

West. LH (Even) BE 610 704 042 620 704 042

West. RH (Odd) BE 610 704 043 620 704 043

West. Combo 610 704 052 620 704 052

Type New Part # Rebuilt Part #