Gastronømad 1 Gas·tron·ø·mad Copenhagen | Paris | Madrid # 10 | July - August 2012 FoodieStockholm
Gastronomad #10 July-August 2012
Mar 13, 2016
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Gastronømad 1
Gas·tron·ø·madCopenhagen | Paris | Madrid # 10 | July - August 2012
FoodieStockholm
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FREE SUBSCRIPTION | ABONNEMENT GRATUIT | SUBSCRIPCION GRATUITA
Photo: Tine
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BØN·APPETIT The Future of cookingHome grown veggies on the riseChefs tips
SØLID SaffronBardotBlack & Salma
PASS·PØRT StockholmChef & Sommelier
YØU Inspirational quote of the month
GASTRØ·CULTUR SergiologyHelsinki
CØNTENTS
EDITOR martin weiss ASSISTANT EDITOR mette lassen DESIGNgema pastorINTERNATIONAL CORRESPONDENT EDITOR maria canabal CONTRIBUTORS s.v., anna hansen, bicENGLISH TRANSLATIONtania groth
C O N T A C T [email protected]
Gastronømad is not responsible and does not necessarily hold the opinions expressed by its contributors
Gastronømad ne peut être tenu responsable des opinions émises pas ses collaborateurs.
Gastronømad no se responsabiliza de las opiniones expuestas por sus
colaboradores.
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Electrolux asked some of the world’s most influential food critics and chefs where to go if one is looking for the next big thing within the culinary world. The answer is...
Top 4 Trends
To get the lowdown on what really goes on in the world of top tier cooking a survey was conducted among the members of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy (*). We asked them what they thought would be the dominant trends for the coming two years. Among the respondents amost 60 percent thought local focus is going to continue to be the number 1 trend. In second place came bistro styled restaurants followed by slow food and street food, was placed in as fourth.
“I think that the trend is to feel closer to nature. Not to transform to much in the product, but to create it to give it in a kind of simplicity to the guests, so you can feel really good taste of the products. I think that the future trends is probably very close to whas is happening” says Anne-Sophie Pic, win-ner of the World’s Best Female Chef award 2011.
Chefs vs. Critics Beef
Although most of the participants in the survey seemed to be of one mind there were some differen-ces. As an example luxury restaurants only rated as the fifth most important trend overall. But, in-terestingly enough, both chefs and restaurateurs rated luxury restaurant as the third most important trend. Among the food critics however, luxury dining didn’t even make in to the top five.
(*)The people who select the Worlds’ 50 Best Restaurant list.
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The future of cooking
: Gastronømad | : Electrolux
BØN·APPETIT
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A taste of history | Le saveur de l´histoire | El sabor de la historia
Scandinavia rule the plates
When asked the most influentail food trends are coming from Scandinavia seems to be cooking up the coolest dishes at the moment. Danish top restaurant NoMa being selected as the wordl’s best restaurant three years in a row is clear sign that food is hot in the cold north. Simplicity and fidelity to the ingredients seems to be a sign of things to come since the second mos influential cuisine is the Japanese, having the aforementioned qualitites in common with Scandinavian style cooking. But the “new” world cuisines aren’t the only ones with a bright future. The cuisine perhaps most associated with great culinary art of them all, the French is ranked as the third mos important trendsetter.
Total
Local 59,1 %
Bistro-style 35,8%Slow food 21,5%Street food 17,5%
Luxury 16,4%Home cooking 15,0%
Molecular gastronomy
9,1%
Other 8,0%
So... the answer is “a Scandinavian bistro style slow street food restaurant with Japanese influences focusing on local ingredients”.
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BØN·APPETIT
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BØN·APPETIT
Home grown veggies on the rise The next big thing is vegetables, and preferably from your own garden
: Gastronømad | : Electrolux
Vegetables is the next big thing
René Redzepi, chef of Restaurant NoMa (world’s best restaurant for the third year in a row) told us that ve-getables are going to be the trend ingredient number one. With meat having been in focus lately things seem to be about to change.
“For me I think we are going into a period where people are going to eat a lot more plants and vegetables and they are going to begin using those type of ingredients more and more. They will then discover that they don’t need to depend so much on animal protein to feel fulfilled and happy”.
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A taste of history | Le saveur de l´histoire | El sabor de la historia
Local vs. Organic
The battle for popularity between local and organic food has been raging for some time now. However, it seems as if local focus is winning over organic food.
This is despite the fact that locally produced food isn’t necessarily better for the environment or the producer. Among the respondents 55 percent that say locally produced ingredients are going to be the main trend in the coming years, the same figure for organic food is 25 percent.Lately more and more fair trade products are made available in our local grocery stores. This might be a trend on the rise among consumers but the restaurant business doesn’t seem to be picking up on the good cause. Only 2.6 percent of the respondents consider fair trade production to be a major trend in the coming two years.
Local Garden
Chef Sang-Hoon Degeimbre (L’air du Temps, Belgium) also puts focus on vegetables, having his own pro-duction of vegetables in a local garden. The garden is being kept and cared for by one of his team members and the daily yield dictates much of what is being served during the day.
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BØN·APPETIT
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A taste of history | Le saveur de l´histoire | El sabor de la historia
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Chefs Tips: Gastronømad | : Electrolux, Rohan Kelly
Joachim Wissler
Quote:“I think that local products will get attention also in Germany. I also think that we will move in thedirection of the Asian kitchen.”
Tip drawn from quote:Local is going from trend to lifestyle. But local doesn’t mean you have to stick to one type of food.
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Interview | Entretien | Entrevista
Sven Elverfeld
Quote:“I think that the environment of the product will become important. I also think that we have to go back in time and see what we did in the past.”
Tip drawn from quote:Use old techniques to try something new.
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BØN·APPETIT
Alex Atala
Quote:“Maybe heritage will be deeper in our senses and can be the next step. I am talking as a Brazilian chef.Sometimes when I serve Amazonas flavors to someone, what I try to show to them is not only a newflavor, a single flavor – I try to show them that there is something behind.”
Tip drawn from quote:Let your flavors be a part of the local story and lift the heritage.
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Interview | Interview | Entrevista
Anne-Sophie Pic
Quote:“I think that the trends are to feel closer to nature. Not to transform the product too much, but to recreate it and serve a sort of simplicity to the guests.”
Tip drawn from quote:Make your guests feel closer to nature by enhancing simple ingredients.
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BØN·APPETIT
Peter Gilmore
Quote: “It begins with the grower, the farmer. If they are really passionate and they care if their products andtheir products are beautiful, you do not have to do that much to it, you really just have to enhance those flavors.”
Tip drawn from quote:Get to know your butcher, your grower, your farmer. You will get better information and first pick ofthe best ingredients.
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Interview | Interview | Entrevista
René Redzepi
Quote:“For me I think we are going into a period where people are going to eat a lot more plants and ve-getables and they are going to begin using those type of ingredients more and more. They will then discover that they don’t need to depend so much on animal protein to feel fulfilled and happy”.
Tip drawn from quote:Experiment with the vegetable world to surprise your guests – there is more to it than tomatoes.
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BØN·APPETIT Interview | Interview | Entrevista
Massimo Bottura
Quote:“I think that people will, increasingly explore the world through food and through cooking.”
Tip drawn from quote:Food is a reflection of society. Make food a main attraction on your vacation trips.
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RAMLÖSA. SWEDISH WATER
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Saffron Safran / Azafrán
: S.V. | : europesaffron
It is the world’s priciest spice, with a rich history dating back more than 2.000 years and spanning several cultures. But saffron can be something of a mystery to even the most in-the-know gourmets.
Dishes with saffron are common in Mediterranean and Middle Eastern countries. The minus-cule red pistil injects a luxury colour and sharpness to Mo-roccan tagines, Spanish pae-llas, Marseille bouillabaisse and Iranian soups. Andrew F. Smith, a food historian and editor of the The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink, says recipes using saffron to colour bread and create bright frosting for cakes were common in the 19-th-century American cook-books.
Es la especia, más cara del mundo con una historia fasci-nante, que se remonta a más de 2.000 años, y común a mu-chas culturas. Sin embargo, el azafrán es sobre todo un gran misterio, incluso para los gas-trónomos consagrados.
Los platos con azafrán se pre-paran principalmente en el Me-diterráneo y en Oriente Medio. El pequeño pistilo da un tono rojo precioso a los tajines ma-rroquíes, a la paella española, a la bouillabaisse de Marsella y a las sopas iraníes. Andrew F. Smith, historiador de la alimen-tación y Editor de The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink, indica que las rece-tas con azafrán para elaborar panes o para hacer glaçages brillantes a las tartas eran co-munes en el siglo XIX en los li-bros de cocina americanos.
C’est l’épice la plus chère du monde, avec une histoire pas-sionnante, qui remonte à plus de 2.000 ans, et commune à plusieurs cultures. Mais le sa-fran est avant un tout un grand mystère, y compris pour les gastronomes les plus avertis.
Les plats avec du safran sont principalement préparés autour de la Méditerranée et au Moyen-Orient. Le minuscule pistil rouge teinte d’une couleur précieuse les tajines marocains, les pae-llas espagnoles, la bouillabais-se marseillaise et les soupes iranienness. Andrew F. Smith, historien de l’alimentation et ré-dacteur en chef de The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink, indique que les recet-tes pour pains à base de safran ou pour effectuer des glaça-ges brillants pour des gâteaux, étaient monnaie courante dans le XIX S. dans les livres de re-cettes américains.
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“Saffron takes time and effort to understand. It’s not like other spices where you just sprinkle it on food to flavour it. And it’s not something you can use by instinct, so home cooks and even some chefs may not ne-cessarily be able to appreciate it” says Pat Willard, author of “Secrets of Saffron”.
Indeed, incorporating the spi-ce in recipes is a fine balan-cing act. Usually, just a pinch - around 50 pistils - is all that is needed to infuse a dish with this piquancy. Adherents swear that just the right amount elevates certain cuisine from ordinary to extraordinary but caution that overdoing it will result in a bitter taste.
“Il faut du temps et des efforts pour comprendre le safran. Ce n’est pas comme les autres épices, où il suffit de les sau-poudrer sur les aliments pour les parfumer. Vous ne pouvez pas l’utiliser à l’instinct. Que ce soit à la maison, pour une cuisine de famille, ou dans un restaurant, ce n’est vraiment pas facile de l’appréhender” explique Pat Willard, auteur de “Secrets de Safran”.
En effet, intégrer cette épice dans les recettes est un geste qui doit maîtriser parfaitement le dosage. Juste une pincée - envi-ron 50 pistils - est largement suf-fisante pour insuffler l’essence du safran. Les experts indiquent que la quantité juste élève un plat d’ordinaire à extraordinaire. Mais attention, restez prudents, si vous exagérez la dose il don-nera à votre plat un goût amer et métallique.
“Se necesita tiempo y esfuerzo para entender el azafrán. No es como otras especias, que sólo necesitan ser espolvoreadas sobre los alimentos para darles sabor. No se puede utilizar ins-tintivamente. Ya sea en casa, en una cocina de familia o en un restaurante, no es fácil de dominar” dice Pat Willard, autor de “Secretos del Azafrán”.
De hecho, la integración de esta especia en las recetas es un gesto que debe tener una dosificación perfecta. Por lo general, sólo una pizca - alre-dedor de 50 pistilos - es sufi-ciente para infundir la esencia del azafrán. Los expertos dicen que convierte un plato ordinario en un plato extraordinario. Pero tenga cuidado, sea moderado, si exagera la dosis dará al plato un sabor amargo y metálico.
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It’s rarity and expense make the fascination with the zesty seasoning all the more intense. Originally from the Middle East, saffron was cultivated in the Mesopotamia Valley (Iraq). To-day it is also grown in Kashmir, Spain, Italy, Morocco, Greece, France and Pennsylvania, whe-re it was brought over by the Dutch in the 18 th-century.
It still is cultivated in just a han-dful of regions because the cro-cus sativus, or purple flower, from which saffron comes, needs a very dry climate and in-tense heat to flourish.
It takes three weeks in the fall for the buds to sprout and blossom into radiant, full-ledged, flowers. The filaments sold as saffron are the dried stigmas from the middle of the plant.
Su rareza y su precio lo hacen fascinante. Su gusto se vuelve casi más intenso. Originario de Oriente Medio, el azafrán se cultivaba en Mesopotamia (hoy Irak). En la actualidad, se cul-tiva también en Cachemir, Es-paña, Italia, Marruecos, Grecia, Francia y Pensilvania, donde fue introducido por los holande-ses en el siglo XVIII.
Se cultiva en muy pocas zonas debido a que el crocus sativus, o flor de azafrán, que esconde los preciados pistilos, necesita un clima muy seco y un calor intenso para florecer.
En sólo tres semanas en otoño, los brotes florecen y se abren. El azafrán que compramos son los pistilos secos que se ex-traen del centro de la flor.
Sa rareté et son prix le rendent fascinant. Son goût deviendrait presque plus intense. Originaire du Moyen-Orient, le safran était cultivé en Mésopotamie (ac-tuellement l’Irak). Aujourd’hui, il est également cultivé dans le Cachemire, en Espagne, en Italie, au Maroc, en Grèce, en France et en Pennsylvanie, où il a été introduit par les Hollan-dais au XVIII S.
Il est encore cultivé dans très peu de régions parce que le crocus sativus, ou fleur de cro-cus, qui contient les précieux pistils, a besoin d’un climat très sec et d’une chaleur intense pour s’épanouir.
Il faut trois semaines à l’au-tomne pour que les bourgeons fleurissent et s’épanouissent. Les filaments de safran que l’on retrouve à la vente sont les pis-tils séchés extraits du milieu de la fleur.
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It takes 5.000 flowers to produ-ce one ounce of the spice, so it is understandable that Persian saffron sell for 150 Euros per ounce in stores.
Highly valued today, saffron was even more treasured in past centuries and is the centre-piece of several stories throug-hout the history. For example, in Nuremberg, the main city in the 15 th-century for goods entering Europe from the Me-diterranean, merchants who at-tempted to add marigold petals to the strands and sell them as pure saffron were charged with violating the “Safranschou code of adulterating saffron”.
They were thrown into jail and, in some cases, executed. Pi-rates who attacked merchant ships coming into Venice stole saffron and left behind gold be-cause the spice was conside-red more valuable.
Il faut 5.000 fleurs pour produire une once, il est donc facile à comprendre pourquoi le safran perse est vendu au prix de 150 euros l’once.
Même s’il demeure onéreux de nos jours, le safran était encore plus précieux autrefois et il a été l’objet de beaucoup de convoi-tises. Par exemple, à Nurem-berg, la principale ville dans le XV S. pour les marchandises entrant en Europe via la Médi-terranée, le règlement concer-nant le safran était très strict.
Les marchands ayant ajouté des pétales de calendula aux fi-laments, altérant ainsi le safran pur, violaient le code Safrans-chou. De ce fait, ils étaient jetés en prison et, dans certains cas, même exécutés. Les pirates attaquaient les navires mar-chands vénitiens afin de voler le safran, tout en délaissant l’or, car l’épice à l’époque était encore plus précieuse que le métal jaune.
Se necesitan 5.000 flores para producir una onza, esto explica el precio de más de 150 Euros por una onza de azafrán persa.
Aunque hoy en día es caro, el azafrán era aún más valioso en siglos pasados y fue extrema-damente codiciado. Por ejem-plo, en Nuremberg, la principal ciudad en el siglo XV S. para las mercancías que entraban en Europa procedentes del Me-diterráneo, el reglamento sobre el azafrán era más que estricto.
Los comerciantes que añadían pétalos de caléndula a los fila-mentos, alterando así el aza-frán puro, violaban el código Safranschou. En consecuen-cia, eran encarcelados y en algunos casos incluso ejecuta-dos. Los piratas atacaban los buques mercantes venecianos para robar el azafrán, dejando de lado el oro, porque el aza-frán en esos momento era más preciado que le metal amarillo.
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The price is astronomical, the taste isn’t easy to describe and you can’t use it intuitively; Yet these very characteristics make saffron an indulgent, almost provocative culinary gem.
Wild about saffron
Each variety of saffron offers subtle differences of flavour:
PersianThe crème de la crème of saf-fron has a deep red colour, po-tent flavour and a dry and crun-chy texture.
KashmiriThe quality and colour is very similar to Persian, but the crop is comparatively limited.
SpanishThe texture is softer compared to other kinds, and the threads tend to have a yellow tinge.
GreekProduced in Greece and Ma-cedonia, the spice imparts a strong flavour and colour to dis-hes.
PennsylvanianGrown in Amish country in small quantities it can be hard to find. It also has a milder taste.
Son prix est astronomique, son goût n’est pas facile à décrire et la maîtrise est exigée pour son utilisation… Ces caractéris-tiques font du safran un joyau culinaire presque provocateur.
Tout sur les safrans
Chaque variété de safran offre de subtiles différences de goût:
PersanLa crème de la crème du sa-fran, il a une couleur rouge fon-cée, une saveur puissante et une texture sèche et croquante.
CachemireLa qualité et la couleur est très semblable au Persan, mais les récoltes sont petites.
EspagnolLa texture est plus douce par rapport à d’autres variétés et les filaments ont tendance à avoir une teinte jaune.
GrecProduit en Grèce et en Macé-doine, il est fort en saveur et en couleur.
PennsylvanienIl est cultivé dans le pays Amish en petites quantités et il n’est pas facile à trouver. Il a un goût assez doux.
Su precio es astronómico, su sabor no es fácil de describir y es necesario ser experto para usarlo... Estas son precisamen-te las características que con-vierten el azafrán en una joya culinaria, casi provocadora.
Todos sobre los azafranes
Cada variedad de azafrán ofre-ce sutiles diferencias en el sa-bor:
PersaLa crème de la crème del aza-frán, tiene un color rojo oscuro, un sabor fuerte y una textura seca y crujiente.
CachemirLa calidad y el color es muy similar al persa, pero las cose-chas son pequeñas.
EspañolLa textura es más suave en comparación con otras varie-dades y los filamentos tienden a tener un tinte amarillo.
GriegoProducido en Grecia y en Ma-cedonia, es fuerte en sabor y color.
PensilvaniaSe cultiva en la región Amish en pequeñas cantidades y no es fácil de encontrar. Tiene un sabor dulce.
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Bardot – ice-creams, California: BIC | : Landor
Everyone loves ice cream in their own way and for their own reasons.
We love it for its ability to transport us to other places and other times.
One mouthful, and the moment ahead of it becomes infinitely better than the moment behind it.
No matter which way you look at it, our relationship with ice cream runs deep, and we take it to a whole new level.
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Bardot is a love you can take anywhere.
A love that can hold anything…and can be for anyone.
A love that is at once hidden and then suddenly revealed.
This is a place where food and emotion become one.
Where ice cream is a muse and to receive it is to have a moment of inspiration.
At Bardot, we don’t sell ice cream bars.
We sell Love. On a stick.
PS: Branded tell-tale names (« Forbidden fruit », « French Kiss », « Heart of darkness », Acapulco love ») and with a kid’s collection, Bardot ice creams are packaged in specific wrappings, enabling conservation for up to 8 hours.
SØLID
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Black & Salma : Tine
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Stockholm: A must visit spot for an avid foodieStockholm: visite obligée pour les foodies curieux | Estocolmo: visita obligatoria para foodies curiosos
: Maria Canabal | : Tania Groth, Louise Billgert, Tomas Oneborg, Wolfgang Kleinscmidt, Joel Wåreus
When it comes to restaurants, street-food, markets and cocktail bars, Stockholm is undoubtedly one of the most dynamic cities on the European foodie scene.
This summer, head for the city of a thousand islands, where you can enjoy the almost constant daylight and the authentic flavors of Sweden. Tempted? Follow us and discover some of the favorite addresses of Stockholm.
Quand il s’agît de restaurants, de street-food, de marchés et de bars à cocktails, Stockholm est sans aucun doute l’une des villes les plus dynamiques de la scène foodie européenne.
Cet été envolez-vous vers la ville aux mille îles où vous profiterez d’une lumière diurne pratiquement continue et des saveurs authentiques de la Suède. Tenté? Suivez-nous et découvrez les meilleures adresses des stockholmois.
Cuando se trata de restaurantes, street-food, mercados y cocktelerias, Estocolmo es sin duda alguna una de las ciudades más dinámicas de la escena foodie europea.
Este verano, ponga rumbo a la ciudad de las mil islas, donde podrá disfrutar de la luz del día casi permanente y de los auténticos sabores de Suecia. ¿Se deja tentar? Síganos, le enseñamos los lugares preferidos de los estocolmeses.
PASS·PØRT Gastro-travels | Gastro-voyages | Gastro-viajes
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Ostermalms Saluhall
At Gastronømad we loved this market – located in a wonderful 1888 building - filled with fresh produce, meat, fish, artisan bak-eries, cheese specialties, sea-food counters and much more. From the salt vendor to the chocolate shop, all is wonderful to visit. The vendors are happy to show off their products and they will give you little pieces for tasting. Don’t miss Anderssons Fågel & Vilt’s smoked reindeer heart and moose salami.
Enjoy yourself as you stroll among stalls of cheese, takea-ways and much more. This is the absolute perfect place to shop and to bring home with you some delicious and very tasty Swedish cuisine.
The market gets very busy at lunchtime! Smaklig måltid! (bon appetit!).
Chez Gastronømad nous avons adoré ce marché - dans un ma-gnifique bâtiment de 1888 – qui propose des fruits et légumes frais, de la viande, du poisson, des boulangeries artisanales, des fromages, des fruits de mer et bien plus encore. Du vendeur de sel à la boutique de choco-lat, tout est intéressant à visiter. Les vendeurs sont heureux de montrer leurs produits et vous feront déguster leurs spécialités avec plaisir. Ne manquez pas Anderssons Fågel & Vilt pour le cœur de renne fumé et le sau-cisson d’élan.
Passez un agréable moment en vous promenant entre les étals de fromage, de plats à emporter et bien d’autres. C’est l’endroit parfait pour faire du shopping et rapporter un peu de gastronomie suédoise à la maison.
Le marché devient très animé à l’heure du déjeuner. Smaklig Måltid ! (bon appétit).
En la redacción de Gastronø-mad adoramos este mercado, en un precioso edificio de 1888, que ofrece todo tipo de produc-tos frescos, carnes, pescados, panaderías artesanas, quesos, mariscos y mucho más. Del vendedor de sal a la tienda de chocolate, toda la visita es in-teresante. Los vendedores es-tán encantados de enseñar sus productos y les harán probar sus especialidades. No se pier-da Anderssons Fågel & Vilt y su corazón de reno ahumado o el salchichón de alce.
Tómese el tiempo de pasear entre los puestos de queso, de comida para llevar, etc…Es el lugar ideal para comprar pro-ductos típicos de la gastrono-mía sueca y llevarse un recuer-do sabroso a casa.
El mercado se llena durante el almuerzo. ¡Smaklig måltid! (buen provecho).
http://www.ostermalmshallen.se/
PASS·PØRT
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Gastro-travels | Gastro-voyages | Gastro-viajes
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HötorgshallenThe first market Hötorgshallen, was established on this site in the 1880s. Take the escala-tor down and find specialties from around the world: herring sandwiches at Kajsas Fisk, a hamburger at Izmir Turkey, ra-tatouille sandwiches at La Ga-zelle. To sample some special Swedish specialties visit Bon-dens Matbod and Melanders Seafood.
Just in front of the market there are stalls that sell fruit and veg-etables. Swedish berries and various mushrooms are ubiq-uitous and are of unsurpassed quality.Jamie Oliver adores this mar-ket where one can find all the flavors of the world!
Le premier marché d’Hötorgs-hallen se trouvait sur ce site dans les années 1880. Désor-mais, prenez l’escalator et descendez pour retrouver des spécialités de partout dans le monde: sandwich aux harengs à Kajsas Fisk, un hamburger turque à Izmir, sandwich de ratatouille à La Gazelle. Pour déguster les spécialités sué-doises rendez-vous à Bondens Matbod et pour les fruits de mer, direction Melanders.
Dans la place juste devant le marché, des étales vendent des fruits et des légumes frais. Les baies suédoises sont omnipré-sentes et les champignons de toutes sortes sont d’une qualité inégalable. Adoré par Jamie Oliver, vous trouverez dans ce marché toutes les saveurs du monde!
El primer mercado Hötorgsha-llen se situaba en este lugar en los años 1880. Ahora, tome la escalera mecánicay baje para encontrar especialidades de todo el mundo: sándwiches de arenque en Kajsas Fisk, una hamburguesa turca en Izmir, sandwiches de pisto en La Ga-zelle. Para degustar especiali-dades suecas visite Bondens Matbod y para los mariscos vaya a Melanders.
En la plaza justo delante del mercado, varios puestos ven-den frutas y verduras. Las ba-yas suecas y los champiñones y setas son de una calidad in-superable.¡Jamie Oliver adora este mer-cado en el que se dan cita to-dos los sabores del mundo!
http://www.hotorgshallen.se/
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Gastronømad 45
Albert and JacksAt first, when we realized they had four shops in town, we had doubts about the authenticity of the establishment (we the light chain-store). These doubts fled however as soon as we tasted their or-ganic leavened bread. Excel-lent! Around town you will, of course, find places offering the traditional cinnamon pastries (Kanel Buller) but those of Al-bert and Jacks are incompa-rable. Baby food and muesli? Here, as with everything in the shop, the emphasis is on qual-ity and simple ingredients. This is our favorite place for one (or two!) Fikka’s (a Fikka is a typi-cal Swedish coffee break and it is always accompanied by pas-tries).
Au début, quand nous avons compris qu’ils avaient quatre boutiques en ville, un petit soupçon de «non authenticité» s’est installé. Ils se sont enfuis dès que nous avons goûté leur pain bio au levain. Excellent. Bien entendu, partout en ville vous trouverez des viennoiseries à la cannelle (Kanel Bulle) mais celles d’Albert and Jacks sont inégalables. Et que dire des ali-ments pour bébé et du müesli? Ici l’accent est mis sur la qua-lité et les ingrédients simples. C’est notre endroit favori pour un (ou deux!) fikka (pause café typiquement suédoise toujours accompagnée de gâteaux).
Al principio, cuando nos dimos cuenta de que tenían cuatro tiendas en la ciudad, tuvimos dudas sobre la autenticidad de este sitio. Nuestras reservas se desvane-cieron cuando probamos el pan a base de masa madre. Exce-lente. Por supuesto, por toda la ciudad encontrará bollos de canela (Kanel Bulle), pero los de Albert and Jacks son in-comparables. ¿Y qué decir de los alimentos para bebés y del muesli? Aquí, lo primordial es la calidad y los ingredientes sen-cillos. Esta es nuestra dirección favorita para una (¡o dos!) fikka (pausa típica sueca con café acompañado de bollería).
http://www.albertjacks.se/Albert_Jacks/catering_bageri_tartor_frukost_lunch_mm_av_Albert_%26_Jacks.html
Gastro-travels | Gastro-voyages | Gastro-viajes
46 Gastronømad
Matbaren
Located in the Grand Hotel in Stockholm, Mathias Dahlgren, the most prestigious of all Swed-ish chefs, shows a modern and contemporary touch in his “Bar Food” (Matbaren). Described by the chef as a Nordic bistro, the wine selection is excellent and the portions not too big. Try one, two or more dishes in the bar or at one of the small tables over-looking the sea. Salma salmon, soya marinated tapioca and smoked reindeer, Langoustines from the Swedish East coast, Broccoli, summer truffle, par-mesan squash, asparagus, Cod and condensed meat, Blueberry muffins and Chocolate-nougat tiles. Balanced, lightweight, te-chnical and above all, full of flavor. Dahlgren’s bistrot is the ideal place for a nice lunch over-looking the harbor and the royal palace. Natural and modern. We love it!
Situé dans le Grand Hôtel de Stockholm, Mathias Deahl-gren, le plus célèbre chef sué-dois, offre dans son «Food Bar» (Matbaren) une carte moderne et contemporaine. Décrit par le chef comme un bistrot nordique, la sélection de vins est excellente et les portions pas trop copieuses. Essayez un, deux ou plusieurs plats au bar ou assis à l’une des petites tables avec vue sur la mer. Saumon Salma, renne fumé et tapioca au soja, Lan-goustines de la côte suédoise, Brocoli, truffe d’été, parmesan et courge, Asperges vertes, morue et jus de viande, Made-leines aux myrtilles et Tuiles-nougat de chocolat. Équilibré, léger, technique et surtout plein de saveur. Le Bistrot de Dahl-gren est le lieu idéal pour un agréable déjeuner avec une belle vue sur le port et le palais royal. Naturel et moderne. On adore !
Situado en el Grand Hotel de Stockholm, Mathias Dahlgren, el más prestigioso de todos los chefs suecos, ofrece en su “Bar de Comida” (Matbaren) un espacio moderno y una carta contemporánea. Calificado por el propio chef como un bistrot nórdico, la selección de vinos es excelente y las raciones no demasiado grandes. Pruebe uno, dos o varios platos, en la barra o en una de las peque-ñas mesas con vistas al mar. Salmón salma, reno ahumado y tapioca a la soja, Cigalas de la costa este sueca, Brócolis, trufa de verano, parmesano y calabaza, Espárragos trigue-ros, bacalao y condensado de carne. Magdalenas de aránda-nos y Tejas-turrón de chocola-te. Equilibrado, ligero, técnico y sobre todo lleno de sabor. El Bistrot de Dahlgren es el lugar ideal para una agradable comi-da con vistas al puerto y al pa-lacio real. Natural y moderno. ¡Nos encanta!
Södra Blasieholmshamnen, 8. Stockholm http://www.grandhotel.se/en/explore/mathias-dahlgren/matbaren
http://www.mathiasdahlgren.com/
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Gastronømad 47
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48 Gastronømad
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Gastronømad 49
Sturekatten
Climbing the stairs in this buil-ding to access this coffee shop you might be tempted to think that you are entering a private home. This is a timeless pla-ce, set in a nineteenth-century bourgeois apartment. In this dollhouse you will enjoy a deli-cious cappuccino with a pastry at teatime. It is the perfect pla-ce for a romantic rendezvous or to read your favorite book ensconced in a rocking chair. In the summertime there is also service in the courtyard. It is an oasis of peace.
En montant les marches de l’immeuble pour accéder à ce café vous aurez l’impression que vous allez chez quelqu’un. Il s’agit d’un endroit hors du temps, installé dans un appar-tement bourgeois du XIXe. siècle. Dans cette maison de poupées vous pourrez déguster un délicieux cappuccino avec une pâtisserie à l’heure du thé. C’est l’endroit idéal pour un ren-dez-vous en amoureux ou pour lire tranquillement votre livre préféré confortablement installé dans une rocking chair. En été, le service a lieu également dans la cour. Un véritable havre de paix.
Al subir las escaleras del edi-ficio para acceder a este café pensará que se dirige a una casa particular. Este es un lu-gar intemporal, situado en un apartamento burgués del siglo XIX. En esta casita de muñe-cas disfrutará de un delicioso capuchino con un pastelito a la hora de merendar. Es un lugar perfecto para una cita románti-ca o para leer su libro favorito instalado cómodamente en una mecedora. En verano, también sirven en el patio interior. Un remanso de paz.
Riddargatan, 4. Stockholm.
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50 Gastronømad
Restaurant AGAre you an incarnated carni-vore? Then this place is for you. It is located on the second floor of an industrial building. The first thing you notice upon entering the restaurant is an XXL fridge with glass doors which displays the curing of meat. This fore-shadows what will prove won-drous.
As a starter choose between Kalix roe (bleak roe), so typical-ly Swedish and so good, crab fried with garlic or the amaz-ing Iberic ham. And the main course – meat…of course! The Porterhouse steak for two will surprise you with its flavor. The burger “Jureskog Style” with Danish “Sorte Sara” cheese, Entrecôte “Grand Cru”, per-fect, perfect, perfect. All ac-companied by salad, parme-san cheese, cherry tomatoes and sauce bearnaise. A bottle of Penfolds Bin 707 (Cabernet Sauvignon, with good balance) and you are in paradise.
The bar to the left, the restaurant to the right, an open kitchen and an overall relaxed atmosphere. In a country where 15% of the population is vegetarian, chef Johan Jureskog’s bet was bold. AG is more than a steak house. It is one of the best restaurants in town. Come and enjoy!
Etes-vous un carnivore assu-mé? Ce lieu est pour vous. Si-tué au deuxième étage d’un bâtiment industriel, la première chose que vous allez trouver en arrivant au restaurant est un réfrigérateur XXL servant à la maturation de la viande. Cela laisse présager les merveilles que vous allez déguster.
Pour les entrées choisissez en-tre les œufs d’ablette de Kalix (bleak roe), tellement suédois et tellement bon, les crabes frits à l’ail ou le superbe jambon ibérique. Le choix pour le plat principal… de la viande bien entendu! Le Porterhouse steak, pour deux personnes, vous sur-prendra par son goût. Le bur-ger «Jureskog Style» avec du fromage danois «Sorte Sara». L’entrecôte «Grand Cru», par-faite, parfaite. De la salade, du parmesan, des petites toma-tes et de la sauce béarnaise l’accompagnent. Une bouteille de Penfolds Bin 707, (cabernet sauvignon, avec un bon équili-bre) et vous serez au paradis.
Bar à gauche, restaurant à droi-te, cuisine ouverte et ambiance très cool. Dans un pays où 15% de la population se déclare vé-gétarienne, le pari du chef Jo-han Jureskog était osé. AG est bien plus qu’un restaurant de viande, c’est l’un des meilleurs restaurants de la ville. Venez en bande vivre l’expérience.
¿Es Vd. un carnívoro que asu-me? Este lugar es para Vd. Ubi-cado en el segundo piso de un edificio industrial, lo primero que encontrará al llegar al restau-rante es una nevera XXL para curar la carne. Esto presagia que va probar maravillas.
En entrante elija entre las huevas de sombrío de Kalix (bleak roe), tan típicamente suecas y tan ri-cas, los cangrejos fritos con ajo o el fantástico jamón ibérico. En plato principal… carne ¡por su-puesto!. El bistec Porterhouse, para dos personas, le sorpren-derá por su sabor. El burger “Ju-reskog Style” con queso danés “Sorte Sara”. Entrecôte “Grand Cru”, perfecta, perfecta. Servida acompañada de ensalada, que-so parmesano, tomates cherry y salsa bearnesa. Una botella de Penfolds Bin 707 (cabernet sau-vignon, con un buen equilibrio) y estará en el paraíso.
Barra a la izquierda, restauran-te a la derecha, cocina abierta y un ambiente desenfadado. En un país en el que 15% de la po-blación se declara vegetariana, la apuesta del chef Johan Ju-reskog fue atrevida. AG es más que un restaurante de carne es uno de los mejores restaurantes de la ciudad. Venga a disfrutarlo en pandilla.
http://www.restaurangag.se/
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Gastronømad 51
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52 Gastronømad
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Gastronømad 53
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54 Gastronømad
F12
Located at the Royal Academy of Arts, Danyel Couet’s restau-rant is a place where you will immediately feel comfortable. Decorated in neutral tones with a touch of Scandinavian de-sign, you will literally be spoiled by the staff in the warm atmos-phere.
The chef’s style is traditional and innovative at the same time. It is inspired by the clas-sic techniques of French cui-sine but uses excellent Swed-ish raw materials. Many dishes are completed in front of the customer, which adds an extra touch to the thought that one will have a wonderful evening. We recommend the blind tast-ing of five wines and the tasting menu which is an extraordinary symphony with unique fish and crayfish. Upon leaving the es-tablishment, pause a moment to admire the swans swimming in the Baltic, in front of the restau-rant. Fabulous dinner. Raised to the power of 12.
Situé dans la Royale Acadé-mie des Arts, le restaurant de Danyel Couet est un endroit où l’on se sent immédiatement à l’aise. Décoré avec des tons neutres et des touches de de-sign Scandinave, vous serez littéralement chouchouté par le personnel, dans une ambiance paisible.
Le style du chef est tradition-nel et innovateur à la fois. Il est très largement inspiré par les techniques classiques de la cuisine française mais il fait appel aux excellentes ma-tières premières suédoises. Beaucoup de plats sont finis en salle devant le convive ce qui ajoute une touche supplé-mentaire à l’idée que l’on peut se faire d’une soirée réussie. Nous vous recommandons la dégustation à l’aveugle de cinq vins et la symphonie du menu dégustation avec des poissons et des langoustines hors pair. En sortant, admirez les cygnes qui voguent dans la Baltique, devant le restaurant. Un dîner Fabuleux. A la puissance 12.
Situado en la Real Academia de las Artes, el restaurante de Danyel Couet es un lugar don-de se sentirá inmediatamente cómodo. Decorado en tonos neutros y con toques de diseño escandinavo, será literalmente mimado por el personal, en un ambiente cálido.
El estilo del chef es tradicional e innovador a la vez. Se inspi-ra en las técnicas clásicas de la cocina francesa pero utiliza las excelentes materias primas suecas. Muchos platos se fina-lizan delante del comensal, lo que añade un toque extra a la idea que uno puede hacerse de una noche maravillosa. Le re-comendamos la cata a ciegas de cinco vinos y la sinfonía del menú degustación con pesca-dos y cigalas extraordinarias. Al salir, admire los cisnes que nadan en el Báltico, delante del restaurante. Una cena Fabulo-sa. Elevado a la potencia 12.
http://f12.se/en
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Gastronømad 55
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56 Gastronømad
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Gastronømad 57
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58 Gastronømad
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BARSStockholm is considered one of the cities with the best bars in the world. Constantly inspired by London and New York, Stoc-kholm is currently leading the trends.Located in an American cajun restaurant, Marie Laveau Bar is a favorite of the young. Live music and bourbon-based coc-ktails by Jimmy Dymott, Barten-der of the Year 2010, is probably the key to the success of a place which is always full. A change of style, now toward the bar Le Rouge, where, in an interior of warm red velvet like a painting straight out of a Toulouse-Lau-trec, bartender Andrés Leon will make for you the best absinthe cocktail in the city. It could not be otherwise! The two nineteenth century brick buildings that houses the Hotel Nobis Guldbaren hide a lounge with ultra-sophisticated design. Ask Robbie Radovic for a cocktail of strawberries and basil smash. He will recognize you as an expert and serve you your drink in a jam jar. So chic!
Stockholm est considérée com-me l’une des villes avec les mei-lleurs bars du monde. Inspirée en permanence par Londres et New York, Stockholm est à la tête des tendances.Situé dans un restaurant amé-ricain-cajun, le bar du Marie Laveau est le lieu de rencontre préféré de la jeuneuse. Musi-que live et surtout les cocktails à base de Bourbon de Jimmy Dymott, bartender de l’année 2010, sont sans doute la clé du succès de ce lieu, toujours plein. Changeons de registre et direction au bar Le Rouge. Dans une ambiance en velours rouge, directement sortie d’un tableau de Toulouse-Lautrec, Andrés Léon vous fera le mei-lleur cocktail à base d’absinthe de la ville. Il ne pouvait en être autrement ! Les deux bâtiments en brique du XIX S. qui abritent l’hôtel Nobis cachent le magni-fique Guldbaren au lounge ul-tra-sophistiqué et ultra-design. Demandez à Robbie Radovic un cocktail fraises et basilique smash. Il reconnaîtra en vous le connaisseur et il vous le servi-ra dans un pot de confiture. So chic!
Estocolmo está considerada como una de las ciudades con los mejores bares del mundo. Inspirada constantemente por Londres y Nueva York, Estocol-mo está actualmente liderando las tendencias.Situado en un restaurante americano-cajun, el bar Marie Laveau es el lugar favorito de la juventud. La música en vivo y los cócteles a base de Bour-bon de Jimmy Dymott, barten-der del año 2010, son, proba-blemente, la clave del éxito de este lugar, siempre lleno. Cam-biemos de estilo, dirección al bar Le Rouge. En un ambiente de terciopelo rojo, salido de una pintura de Toulouse-Lautrec, Andrés León le hará el mejor cóctel de absenta de la ciudad. ¡No podía ser de otra manera! Los dos edificios de ladrillo del siglo XIX que albergan el hotel Nobis esconden el Guldbaren con su lounge ultra-sofisticado y ultra-design. Pídale a Robbie Radovic un cóctel de fresas y de albahaca smash. Recono-cerá el amateur que Vd. es y se lo servirá en un tarro de mer-melada. ¡So chic!
http://marielaveau.se/ http://lerouge.se/le-bar
http://www.nobishotel.se/goldenbar-sv.html
Gastronømad 59
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60 Gastronømad
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Hotel SkeppsholmenThis hotel is situated in abso-lute calm surroundings on a quiet island in Stockholm. And the surprising thing is that you are in the middle of town! Your neighbors will be the Museum of Modern Art, the Swedish Mu-seum of Architecture and Ben-ny Andersson of ABBA.
Located in former military ba-rracks (1700), which housed the Royal Marines Charles XII, it is a wonderful blend of past and present. Carefully restored, the building is protected and here you can enjoy the contemporary design by Claesson Koivisto Rune: amazing lamps in each aisle, beautiful photos and uni-que furnishings.
The grounds are beautiful, and if time permits, you can here enjoy a wonderful Swedish breakfast, generous and deli-cious. The staff is very attentive and helpful and we enjoyed the small touches, like the ameni-ties made by Byredo the oldest Swedish “perfumer”. Discreet luxury, charming and green, it is the very best Stockholm has to offer.
Cet hôtel se trouve sur une île paisible à Stockholm, dans un calme absolu. Et le plus étonnant est que vous êtes au centre-ville ! Vos voisins seront le Musée d’Art Moderne, le Mu-sée suédois d’architecture et Benny Andersson d’ABBA.
L’hôtel est situé dans une an-cienne caserne militaire (1700), qui abritait les Royal Marines de Karl XII, et est un beau mélange d’ancien et de nou-veau. Soigneusement rénové, le bâtiment étant classé histo-rique, vous pourrez profiter du superbe design contemporain signé par Claesson Koivisto Rune: des lampes incroyables dans chaque couloir, des pho-tos superbes et des meubles uniques.
Les jardins sont magnifiques et par beau temps, vous pourrez y prendre le petit-déjeuner sué-dois, qui est généreux et déli-cieux. Le personnel est très at-tentif et nous avons beaucoup aimé les amenities, signés par Byredo, le plus ancien «parfu-meur» suédois. Du luxe dis-cret, charmant et éco-labellisé, notre meilleure adresse à Stoc-kholm.
Este hotel está situado en una tranquila isla de Estocolmo, con calma absoluta. Y lo sorpren-dente es que ¡usted está en el centro!. Sus vecinos serán el Museo de Arte Moderno, el Museo Sueco de Arquitectura y Benny Andersson de ABBA.
El hotel está situado en un an-tiguo cuartel militar (1700), que albergaba a los Marines Reales de Carlos XII, y es una buena mezcla de pasado y presente.Cuidadosamente restaurado, el edificio está catalogado, podrá disfrutar del diseño contempo-ráneo firmado por Claesson Ko-ivisto Rune: lámparas increíbles en cada pasillo, bellas fotos y mobiliario único.
Los jardines son preciosos, y, si el tiempo lo permite, podrá disfrutar en ellos del desayuno sueco, generoso y delicioso. El personal es muy atento y nos gustaron mucho las amenities, firmadas por Byredo, el “perfu-mista” sueco más antiguo. Lujo discreto, encantador y ecológi-co, nuestro mejor consejo para Estocolmo.
http://www.hotelskeppsholmen.com/
Gastronømad 61
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62 Gastronømad
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Gastronømad 63
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66 Gastronømad
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Chef & Sommelier&: Maria Canabal
Chef Sasu Laukkonen and I arranged to meet in a forest in the center of Helsinki to pick wild herbs. He arrived wearing a big smile and carrying a large (huge!) bag, accompanied by Johan Borgar, the sommelier of the restaurant. Noticing my sur-prise (I was rather envisioning “foraging” many miles from Hel-sinki, surrounded by trees and moose) and he said quite natu-rally: “You’ll be amazed what we find here. At first when I opened the restaurant, I thought about planting a garden with aroma-tic herbs ... but then I realized it was not necessary”. We have our “harvest” all around us.
Le chef Sasu Laukkonen me donne rendez-vous dans la fo-rêt du centre d’Helsinki afin de ramasser ensemble des herbes sauvages. Il arrive joyeux, avec un grand (enorme ?) sac accom-pagné de Johan Borgar, le som-melier du restaurant. Devant ma surprise, je me voyais en plein «foraging» a des kilomètres de Helsinki entourée par les élans, il m’indique tout naturellement: -“Vous allez être surprise de la quantité de choses que nous al-lons cueillir ensemble. Au début, lors de l’ouverture du restau-rant, je voulais créer un jardin avec des herbes aromatiques… mais… finalement, nous n’en avons pas besoin. Nous avons tout autour de nous”.
El chef Sasu Laukkonen me da cita en un bosque del centro de Helsinki para ir a a recoger hierbas silvestres. Llega son-riente, con una gran (enorme?) bolsa, acompañado por Johan Borgar, el sommelier del res-taurante. Al darse cuenta de mi sorpresa, me veía mas bien “foraging” a muchos kilómetros de Helsinki, rodeada de alces, me dice con toda naturalidad: -“Le sorprenderá todo lo que vamos a encontrar aquí. Al prin-cipio, cuando abrí el restauran-te, pensé en plantar un huerto con hierbas aromática... pero… me dí cuenta que no era nece-sario”. Tenemos todo a nuestro alrededor.”
Gastronømad 67
Restaurant | Restaurante
68 Gastronømad
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It was wonderful! This includes the “Finnish asparagus” that grows in the wild here in Fin-land. It vaguely resembles a green palm bonsai and has a strong taste of chlorophyll. “We spent a lot of time gathering in the forests and we have close everyday contact with our pro-ducers” says the chef.
When he opened Chef & Som-melier in 2010, Laukkonen es-tablished his own “manifesto”: A kitchen that is 100% natural, organic, local and seasonal. Or otherwise explained, all that comes out of our kitchen can be served to his three year old daughter. It is a kitchen of love, inspired by the book of recipes from his grandmother ... but that is not the only thing. The-re is something daring in their creations that makes them to-tally irresistible. An example? “Finnish forest marinated shii-take”. Part of the appetizers. Promising!
La cueillette ? Impressionnante. Notamment les «asperges» fin-landaises sauvages, sorte de palmier bonsaï ressemblant va-guement à des asperges vertes avec un goût de chlorophylle bien présent. «Nous passons beaucoup de temps à faire la cueillette nous-mêmes dans la forêt. De même, le contact avec nos producteurs est quotidien. Nous savons parfaitement d’où vient chaque ingrédient» in-dique le chef.
Lors de l’ouverture de Chef & Sommelier en 2010, Laukko-nen a établi son «manifesto» bien à lui: une cuisine 100% na-turelle, bio, locale et de saison. Ou expliqué autrement, tout ce qui sort de sa cuisine peut être mangé par sa fille de trois ans. Une cuisine du cœur, donc, qui s’inspire de la boîte à recettes de sa grand-mère… mais pas seulement. Il y a un côté délu-ré dans ses créations qui les rend totalement excitantes. Un exemple ? “Forêt de shiitakes bio finlandais marinés”. Le plat est présenté en apéritif. Prome-teur!.
¿La “cosecha”? Impresionante. Incluyendo el “espárrago” sal-vaje de Finlandia, una especie de palmerita bonsái, vagamente parecido a un espárrago verde, con un fuerte sabor a clorofila. “Pasamos mucho tiempo en los bosques y el contacto con los productores es cotidiano. Sabe-mos perfectamente que origen tiene cada ingrediente”, dice el chef.
Cuando abrió Chef & Somme-lier, en 2010, Laukkonen esta-bleció su propio “manifiesto”: una cocina 100% natural, eco-lógica, local y de temporada. O explicado de otra manera, todo lo que sale de su coci-na se lo puede dar a su hija de tres años. Una cocina con amor, que se inspirada en la li-breta de recetas de su abuela... pero no sólo. Hay algo atrevi-do en sus creaciones que las hace totalmente irresistibles. ¿Un ejemplo? “Bosque de shii-takes ecológicos de Finlandia”. Forma parte de los aperitivos. ¡Prometedor!
Gastronømad 69
Restaurant | Restaurante
70 Gastronømad
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In a country where most fish is discarded and throw back into the sea and where only salmon is considered noble, he caused a scandal when he included “discarded fish” on the menu of his gastronomic restaurant. Not surprising however by this generous chef. His philosophy knows no hierarchies. Humility, simplicity and ethics dominate a kitchen and living room whe-re you will be pampered by the staff.
The flavors are pure, the xanthan has no place here. Dishes are seasoned with a good dose of freedom and Scandinavian design. It is a unique experience in Helsinki. But one will have to be patient. The restaurant can only seat twenty-five people and the ru-mor quickly spread about “the little restaurant serving creative Finnish cuisine in the Ullanlinna neighborhood”.
Dans un pays où la majorité du poisson pêché est rejeté à la mer, seulement le saumon est considéré comme un poisson noble, il a fait scandale lors qu’il a mis à la carte de son restau-rant gastronomique du «pois-son rebut». Pas surprenant de la part de ce chef généreux. Sa philosophie ne connaît pas les hiérarchies. L’humilité, l’éthique et la simplicité dominent la cui-sine et la salle, où vous êtes choyé par le personnel.
Ses goûts sont purs, point de xanthane ici. Il assaisonne ses plats avec une bonne dose de liberté et de design scandina-ve. C’est une expérience uni-que à Helsinki. Mais vous allez devoir vous armer de patien-ce. Le restaurant ne reçoit pas plus de vingt-cinq convives et le bruit s’est rapidement propagé sur “le petit restaurant qui sert une cuisine créative finlandaise quartier Ullanlinna”.
En un país donde se descartan la mayoría de los pescados cap-turados en el mar, sólo se con-sidera pescado noble el salmón, provocó un escándalo cuando incluyó en la carta de su restau-rante gastronómico “pescados desechados”. No algo que nos choque por parte de este chef generoso. Su filosofía no cono-ce jerarquías. La humildad, la sencillez y la ética dominan la cocina y la sala, en la que será mimado por el personal.
Sus sabores son puros, la xan-tana no tiene cabida aquí. Sa-zona sus platos con una buena dosis de libertad y de diseño escandinavo. Es una expe-riencia única en Helsinki. Pero tendrá que ser paciente. El restaurante solo puede recibir veinticinco personas y el rumor se extendió rápidamente sobre “ese pequeño restaurante que sirve cocina creativa finlandesa en el barrio de Ullanlinna”.
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Restaurant | Restaurante
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Alcohol abuse is dangerous for health, drink responsibly.L’abus d’alcool est dangereux pour la santé. Sachez consommer et apprécier avec modération.
El abuso de alcohol es peligroso para la salud. A consumir con moderación.
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YØU Inspirational quote of the month| | La phrase du mois | La Frase del mes
“When we lose, I eat. When we win, I eat. I also eat when we’re rained out”.
Tommy Lasorda
“Quand nous perdons, je mange. Lorsque nous gagnons, je mange. Je mange aussi
quand tout est interrompu à cause de la pluie”.
Tommy Lasorda
“Cuando perdemos, como. Cuando ganamos, como. También como cuando se interrumpe
todo por culpa de la lluvia”. Tommy Lasorda
Leave your comments in our blog ! Laissez-nous vos commentaires sur notre blog !
Déjanos tu comentario en nuestro blog!
www.gastronomad.eu
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Sergiology: Mara Grimm | : Tony Le Duc
On 18 June, Sergio Herman has presented his magnum opus: Sergiology. The master chef created the book/art object together with two of the best photographers in Europe: food photographer, Tony le Duc and portrait photographer, Stephan Vanfleteren.
Sergiology is much more than a traditional cookbook. It documents the sources of inspiration and the creations of one of the best chef in the Benelux. Sergio Herman: “Sergiology relates to every-thing that made me what I am today, including some of my big sources of inspiration such as citrus fruit and the sea but also the work of artists such as Anton Corbijn and Luc Tuymans, designers such as Studio Job and Piet Boon, my peers including Rene Redzepi and Marco Pierre White and my wife, Ellemieke, of course”.
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Audio device
The interviews with the people in the book were conducted over a three-year period. Readers can use the audio device and headphones supplied with the book to listen to these interviews. As you look at the photos in the book you can hear these people talking about their life and work, as if you were visiting an exhibition and given an audio guide with information about the work on display.
Sergio Herman also talks about the creative process of the dishes which he devised especially for this book. About what it feels like when you come up with something new and the constant pressure to innovate and be original. But he also discusses his private life: his youth, his children, Ibiza and the Zwin nature reserve. Finally Herman also elaborates on his much-discussed plans for the future.
Recipes and diagrams
In addition to the audio interviews Sergiology contains over 50 recipes, each consisting of four or five separate preparations. The recipes have been made more accessible thanks to diagrams, and have been completed with 60 basic recipes. Readers thus can regale themselves with 250 different preparations, which they can use, in combination or individually, to create their own amazing dishes.
Limited Edition & sale
The book and audio device have been packed in a luxury box, covered with black linen. The Dutch edition has been limited to 2,000 copies while the English edition is limited to 500 copies. What makes this book so unique is the online sale: fans can order the copy of their choice at www.sergiol-ogy.com. The book will also be available from a select number of book stores.
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Facts & figures
• Sergiology is supplied in a linen box. The box contains an 8-colour printing, eggplant-edged book with 360 pages, and a black linen hardcover as well as an audio device, headphones, and a USB stick. The edition for the foreign market contains a separate booklet with a translation into French and German.
• Sales price: €195 (excl. shipping when ordered online).
About Sergio Herman
Sergio Herman (1970) is the chef and owner of Oud Sluis in Sluis, Zeeland (NL). This restaurant was awarded three Michelin stars and is ranked in 21st place on the prestigious San Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Herman also owns restaurant Pure C in Cadzand, the Netherlands. In 2013 he will open a third restaurant, called La Chapelle, in Antwerp. Delicate sour notes lend a light, airy dimension to his dishes. Herman’s great sense of beauty has also led to several collaborations with artists in other disciplines including the tattoo king Henk Schiffmacher, Sofie Lachaert and the designers of Studio Job.
About Tony Le Duc & Stephan Vanfleteren
Tony Le Duc, publisher and preferred photographer of Oud Sluis, photographed the dishes in Ser-giology whilst Stephan Vanfleteren was in charge of the portraits. The fact that these two photogra-phers each have a different style creates the right contrast: Vanfleteren’s raw black and white photos and the light pared down style of Le Duc’s photos come together in a fascinating visual composition. Designer Nej De Doncker provides the right graphic balance.
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Books | Livres | Libros
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Alcohol abuse is dangerous for health, drink responsibly.L’abus d’alcool est dangereux pour la santé. Sachez consommer et apprécier avec modération.
El abuso de alcohol es peligroso para la salud. A consumir con moderación.
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GASTRØ·CULTUR Exhibits | Expositions | Exposiciones
Helsinki World Design Capital 2012
: Maria Canabal | : HWDC, Rauno Träskelin
Helsinki together with cities of Espoo, Vantaa, Kauniainen and Lahti is the World Design Capital 2012.
Before you begin your adventure this summer in the World Design Capital, download the Smart-phone application (http://wdchelsinki2012.fi/en/app). You will find that the official program includes over 300 activities! One of the richest since the initiative has existed. It must be said that design is part of the Finnish lifestyle. Design is everywhere, in the galleries, shops, cafes and fine dining establishments. Take a look at the link “d’Arianne” that we established for the foodie that you are!
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Abattoir
It is probably the main food attraction of the World Design Capital. A food and design meeting place will be open to all in the Tukkutori Wholesale Market in Helsinki. The market will be open for four months. Farmers Market style markets, PopUp restaurants and design events will bring together people who are interested in food and urban culture.
We have visited the space in June (work in progress!) and the reburbishing looks very promising. The red-brick buildings designed by Bertel Liljequist were originally built to house the Helsinki Aba-ttoir in 1933. Most of the buildings are protected, and the area they form is earmarked on the plans for the retail trade. The other parts of Tukkutori will remain in use by the wholesale trade and food and drink production. Development of the Abattoir area retail trade is designated as one of the main aims in the City of Helsinki food culture strategy.
The Abattoir area will develop in the future to form an active extension to the city’s other stylish cultu-ral facilities, such as the Cable Factory, Korjaamo, and Suvilahti. The area will be an approachable, laid-back concept appealing to all the senses, which will be a certain source of the city’s finest spe-cialities and which will also enable active participation. When planning the operation, models around the world have included the Meatpacking District of Manhattan and Kødbyen in Copenhagen.
In the Greater Helsinki area, the most active forefront of culinary culture is currently represented by residents who are urbane, thirty-something in spirit, and themselves create and change urban and food culture. Good examples are the internationally noted Restaurant Day, the We Love Helsinki events, and the ever-increasing PopUp restaurants and events. The main target group of the Aba-ttoir area will also be these pioneers, who have created completely new ways of generating culture and influencing their own environment.
Tukkutori in Helsinki is an agency of the City of Helsinki, which lets premises and plots of land to wholesalers, as well as food hall and market traders. The Tukkutori services include a wholesale meat hall, freezer plant, wholesale greengrocery hall and a wholesale greengrocery market.
Date: September–December 2012Website: www.heltu.fi Place: Customs market, Työpajankatu 2, Helsinki
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From oven to table – Finnish design cast iron for the kitchen
The cooperation between the Karkkila Ironworks Museum Senkka and the Rosenlew Museum will display Finnish design kitchen and household cast products from the 1950s to 1990s. It is the work of Finland’s leading designers.
Date: 10.9.–31.12.2012Place: Museum of Technology, HelsinkiWebsite: www.tekniikanmuseo.fi
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Designing eating
Designing eating is a cooperation between ceramic artist Karin Widnäs and chef Kari Aihinen and his kitchen staff, cooperating on the 75th anniversary crockery for the Ravintola Savoy restaurant. The design will be based on the daily changing menu compiled by master chef Kari Aihinen for the restaurant’s anniversary year. The crockery manufacturing process and the meal portions will be documented.The crockery which will be designed and manufactured on the basis of meals created by the Finnish master chef, is an example of the possibilities that small-scale Finnish production can achieve within the catering trade. The crockery comprises unique numbered plates, to be introduced on 9 January 2012. The crockery will also be displayed in the glass case in the entrance hall of the Ravintola Savoy.The unique restaurant environment of Ravintola Savoy, which was designed by Alvar Aalto, de-monstrates his appreciation for arts and crafts. The anniversary crockery and menu will be part of the comprehensive artwork design.
Date: Starting from 9.1.2012Place: Helsinki Website: www.karinwidnas.fi
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The form of good taste
Elanto bakery started its production in Helsinki in 1907, and quickly became the largest bread baker in the capital region. Elanto’s oat bread was a popular product, which was created in 1960 and was produced all the way until 1984. Now the classic product of Finnish food design has made a come-back thanks to new technology.
Elannon Näyttämö theatre is celebrating its 90th anniversary with the premiere of the Leipätehtaan naiset play (engl. Bread factory women), written by Pirjo Toikka and directed by Hanna Ryti.It is a story about a young woman who begins work at a bread factory. The story was kindled by in-terviews of previous employees, and has some connection to real life events, including reference to an international bread competition. The era is strongly depicted in the script, echoing the beginning of modernisation and triumph of technology. Performances are held on Saturdays from 8 October 2011.
Date: Throughout 2012Website: http://www.hok-elanto.fi/index.php?id=7467
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Youth food festival
Young people in the capital area will organise various themed food culture events. They will plan the evening including the table setting, decorations, menu as well as the programme. This will enable young people to learn new skills, find out about organic and local food and to take into account food aesthetics. In addition, it will support the mutual interaction between young people and adults. The project is a part of the ‘Young people and design’ entity.Date: 20.2.–31.12.2012Place: HelsinkiInformation: Cultural Producer Mari Alamikkelä, Helsinki City Youth Department, +35840 334 2095
Helsinki design menus
The chefs with their teams at the Kappeli, Kaarna, Salve, Zetor, Virgin Oil Co., Stone’s and Bel-ge restaurants have developed a unique Helsinki Design Menu for each restaurant, emphasising among other things local foods, the Finnish way of life and responsibility. Each restaurant has its own theme for the menu.Date: Throughout 2012Place: Kappeli, Kaarna, Zetor, Salve, Stone’s, Virgin Oil Co., Belge; HelsinkiWebsite: www.belge.fi, www.kappeli.fi, www.ravintolakaarna.fi, www.zetor.net, www.ravintolasalve.fi,www.stonespub.fi, www.virginoil.fiInformation: Development Manager Santeri Uusitalo, +358 10 766 0667, [email protected]
Form and taste
The major aspects of the exhibition are objects and spaces related to culinary art: food preparation, eating, growing, everyday fare, feast, cafés, tearooms, food as an art form, preservation, etc. Date: 13.5.–30.9.2012Place: The Granary, FiskarsOther: The exhibition is part of Fiskars Design Village 2012Website: www.onoma.org/fi/nayttelyt/
Turn table - The urban garden
Turn Table – The Urban Garden is a cultivation and activity oasis right in the middle of Helsinki, within the railwaymen’s niche of the old engine sheds. The disused engine turn table will act as a framework for a modern greenhouse and a cultivation activity oasis for the city. The undertaking includes a greenhouse, grain bins and a summer cafe with patios, diverse cultivation activities, workshops, voluntary work events as well as market, food and cultural events.Date: Throughout 2012 Place: Pasila, HelsinkiWebsite: www.kaantopoyta.fiInformation: Jaakko Lehtonen, +358
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And the list goes on: the barista competition of the year, beat lunch (the famous break where you eat and dance came from Sweden), honey in the roofs, the day the restaurant (where anyone can sell food, made by themselves, in public places), for all gardens (gardens planted in cities Gigabox capacity of 100 kg of soil), How much water do you drink (an excellent initiative that takes place every Tuesdays in a cafe to talk about the problem of drinkable water), the exhibition “taste and form” which will link between culture and food, homeless bus selling food and local ecological .... It’s now or never to go to Helsinki to take advantage of the many activities related to the culinary arts. A final recommendation: “Solar Restaurant”.
You missed London or Stockholm? It does not matter, August 4 Chef Antto Melasniemi starts his pop-up restaurant again.
In cooperation with Catalonian designer Martí Guixé, Antto will re-create a pop-up restaurant that is built of huge mirror-like solar cookers. Restaurant customers can watch their food being prepared. Introduced for the first time at Milan Design Week, a top restaurant operated by solar power is on display at Helsinki’s Kalasatama district for 10 days in August. The Solar Kitchen has been travelling around Finland all summer and has already been set up in Turku, Rovaniemi, Mäntyharju and Oulu. In the autumn, Solar Kitchen will be moving on to Stockholm. The uncertainty of Finnish weather conditions guarantees that meals will be unique and enjoyable. Depending on the amount of sun-shine, the restaurant prepares everything from steak to salads, and plans are changed if the weather turns rainy or cloudy. Quick decisions are made depending on the conditions, and customers are sure to have a communal experience. The Kalasatama restaurant is open on sunny days from noon to 3 pm on 4-14 August. The lunch menu changes daily and is priced at EUR 15.Helsinki… more foodie than ever!
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