FUSING EQUIPMENTS FUSING EQUIPMENTS FUSING MACHINES AND TECHNOLOGY SUBMITT ED BY :- AMIT KUMAR SANDEEP KUMAR SINGH MANISH KUMAR SINGH RISHIKESH KUMAR
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FUSING EQUIPMENTSFUSING EQUIPMENTSFUSING MACHINES AND TECHNOLOGY
SUBMITTED BY:-
AMIT KUMAR
SANDEEP KUMAR SINGH
MANISH KUMAR SINGH
RISHIKESH KUMAR
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Fusing is a process in which the interlining is bonded to the outer fabric by
means of a thermoplastic resin. It is a degree with which the fabrics yarns
and fibres melt and weld together.
Attachment of interlinings is used to support, reinforce and control areas
of garments such as collars, cuffs, waistbands, hems, facings and the fronts
of jackets and coats. They are either sewn into the garments or they may
be attached by means of fusing.
Interlinings are available as woven , nonwoven or fusible.
The term fusible fabric refers to fabrics specially constructed for a fusing
process such as fusible interlinings.
FUSING TECHNOLOGYFUSING TECHNOLOGY
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The fusible interlining consists of a base fabric which carries on its surface a
thermoplastic adhesive resin, usually in the form of small dots, which melts
when heated to a specific temperature.
On application of heat and pressure the resin, laid onto the garment part,will flow into the fabric of the garment thus attaching the interlining
permanently.
A resin is any natural or man-made organic compound, usually transparent
or translucent , which is not soluble in water. Curing is the term used for
heating the resin to its polymerized state. Polyamide, Polyethylene,
polyvinyl acetate, polyvinyl chloride and cellulose acetate are some of the
resins used to make fusible fabrics.
FUSING PROCESSFUSING PROCESS
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Provide shape to the part
Support to the part
Stabilization
Reinforcement
Hand
Improved performance for garments
Produces and retains desired aesthetic requirements
ADVANTAGES OF FUSING PROCESSADVANTAGES OF FUSING PROCESS
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Interlinings are available in a wide range of weights
from 0.4 to 4.0 ounces per square yard.
Heavier interlinings provide more support for heavier,
more structured garments such as coats and suits.
Lighter-weight interlinings offer resiliency and somesupport, but they may provide a softer hand.
HOW TO CHOOSE AN INTERLININGHOW TO CHOOSE AN INTERLINING
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Fusible interlinings are fabrications coated with some form of resin or
adhesive that serves as a bonding agent to hold the interlining to the shell
fabric.
Substrates may be
wovens
knitsfibre webs
Fusible interlinings must be fused to shell fabric prior to the construction.
Fused garments parts have more body, do not ravel, and are easy to handle
in sewing.
FUSIBLE INTERLININGSFUSIBLE INTERLININGS
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Woven
Fibre webs
Knitt ed
Fusible
TYPES OF INTERLINGSTYPES OF INTERLINGS
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Usually plain weave and may be produced from almost any type
of fiber.
This fabrication is most expensive and subject to raveling and
shrinkage.
When proper interlining are not used stretching, distortion, and
poor drapeability of garment pieces takes place.
Woven interlinings used in collars and front shirt bands may be
cut on the bias to provide good flexibility and shaping as the
garment component rolls and bends.
WOVENWOVEN
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Knit fabrics used for interlinings are primarily warp knit tricots,
rachels, and weft insertion rachels.
They are used for strength in relation to weight, low bulk, andsmooth hand.
It provides resiliency in the width, stability and control in thelength, flexibility, and good drapeability with a soft hand. Thistype of knit interlining is commonly used with wool and wool-blend because of their loft, soft hand and resiliency.
They are also used with knit fabrics because of flexibility.
KNITTEDKNITTED
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These are the most widely used fabrication for interlining
because of:
low cost
Versatilityease of engineering specific characteristics into interlinings.
These may have less strength but do not ravel while handling
Fiber webs are frequently made from light weight, strong,
synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester.
NON WOVENNON WOVEN
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Factors determining the
properties of the
fused laminate:
1. Base fabric
2. Outer fabric
3. Type of fusible resin
4. Pattern of application
of resin to the basecloth
FUSING TECHNIQUEFUSING TECHNIQUE
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FUSING EQUIPMENTSFUSING EQUIPMENTS
The equipments used for fusing can be divided into:-
Specialized fusing presses
Hand irons
Steam presses
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Two horizontal metal plat ens/bucks between which the fabric and int erlining
laminat e are sandwiched.
The bott om plat en has a resilient cover (silicone rubber/f elt pad).
Heat is provided by electric elements in t op plat en only.
The bott om buck is static and the t op buck is lowered t o fuse the assembly
whilst under pressure, and then raised aft er cooling. Pressure is applied byclosing the plat ens t ogether mechanically, hydraulically or pneumatically.
Fusing time is controlled by aut omatic timer in the range of 8-12 seconds.
The operat or places the garment part face down t o the lower plat en, places the
int erlining resin on t op of it and closes the press. Most of these machines are
fitt ed with timers and program controls and can achieve high levels of fusing
qualities.
FLAT BED FUSING PRESSFLAT BED FUSING PRESS
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ADVANTAGES OF FLATBED FUSING PRESSADVANTAGES OF FLATBED FUSING PRESS
simple version,
small size and
relatively low cost allow their use by small clothing
manufacturer.
Fabric shrinkage is reduced since the fabric is held
under pressure throughout the fusing cycle.
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The syst em operat es by passing the garment part with its
int erlining placed on it , past a heat source and either
simultaneously or subsequently applying pressure. They canbe operat ed without st opping f or the loading and unloading
of the assemblies. The conveyer belt transports the
assemblies through all the processes and the belt speed is
adjustable according t o the time cycle required.
CONTINUOUS FUSING MACHINECONTINUOUS FUSING MACHINE
Working principle
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The conveyer belt carry the components past heating plat es
or heating chamber, nip rollers apply pressure t o theassembly aft er heating .
The pressure time is very small as compared t o the flat bed
press and needs t o be precisely controlled and the rollers
should be parallel and free of wear t o give even and unif ormpressure.
The rubber covering of rollers is available in a range of
hardness.
Usually shirt t op collar fusing requires hardest rollers and
out erwear fabrics require soft er rollers.
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CONTINUOUS FUSING MACHINECONTINUOUS FUSING MACHINE
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CONTINUOUS FUSING PRESSCONTINUOUS FUSING PRESS
The above continuous type fusing machine is applicable in privat e, middle and small garment manufacturers.
The k ey f eatures are:-
y 1. Use seamless belt and with joint belt .
y 2.Even t emperature in heat ed area ,has upper and lowert emperature controller, the t emperature could be adjust ed from0 t o 220 degree Celsius. It could press liner single face or double face.
y 3.Electric t emperature controller and direct sensor could control tiny diff erence in t emperature.
y
4.St op aut omatically when adjust the t emperature, and a hand instruction f or power cut .
y 5.Adopting the new rotating stripping mechanism, which withthe removal lever t o assure the past e things could fall off smoothly.
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CURVE TYPE 600 COOLING FUSING MACHINECURVE TYPE 600 COOLING FUSING MACHINE
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Pressure Mpa: 0-0.4
Belt speed m/min:0-5(adjustable)
Temperature of heat er:Normal-200
Fusing width mm:600
Air Pressure;4-5 bar
Weight Kg:450Dimensions mm:2850*1500*1200
Besides the highlights of general fusing machine(linear continuous fusing machine),this machine embodies more rationalization and humanization in its
functional design.This machine has unique cooling syst em,which enable the
t emperature of the cloth when aft er the high t emperature fusing come back t o
normal atmosphere t emperature,and it will not leave any trace even the operat or
t ouches the cloth.Curve type operation and the same f eed inlet and outlet
provides more convenience as well as reduce more manpower.
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HAND IRONHAND IRON
y Int erlinings which can be fused at relatively
low t emperatures ,low pressure ,and in
relatively short time are suitable f or fusing by
hand iron.
y Iron is used merely t o position an int erlining
part or tape t emporarily ,t o be f ollowed by
pressing on a st eam press or specialized press.
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HAND IRONSHAND IRONS
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STEAM PRESSSTEAM PRESS
y Temperature at the glue line is achieved by st eam
from the head of the press.
y Pressure is provided mechanically or
pneumatically by closing the press head on the
buck .
y The resins which fuse the best are polyvinyl
acetat e,and lower melting range of polyamides.
y Used in the positioning and initial attaching of
fusible shoulder pads in mens jack ets
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SHOULDER PADS FUSING PRESSSHOULDER PADS FUSING PRESS
Product Description
Used for fusing shoulder
pads.
One lower and 2 upper
bucks enable front and
back fusing for each
shoulder.
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METHODS OF FUSINGMETHODS OF FUSING
Configurations possible both in t erms of the presentation of
the parts t o the fusing press, and in the parts included in the
garment . The main variations are :
Sandwich fusing : Carried out on a horizontal continuous
press where heat is applied from above and below. Two
pairs of components f orming two laminat es are fused
t ogether with the two out er fabrics on the outside of the
sandwich and the two int erlinings on the inside. With the
correct t emperature settings the glue line t emperature
may be achieved in both laminat es but strik e back and all
the layers t o adhere t ogether is considerable
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Reverse fusing : The out er fabric lies on the
t op of the fusible, sometimes used f or shirt or
blouse collars. On flat bed presses with the
elements on the t op plat en, t emperature adjustments are necessary.
Double fusing : This is the fusing of two sorts
of int erlinings t o the out er fabric in one
operation used in shirt collars and mensjack et fronts.
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BIBLIOGRAPHYBIBLIOGRAPHY
y The t echnology of clothing manufacturing by
Harold Carr and Barbara Lathman.
y www.anysew.com