Fall 2010 Rodes Fashion Forum Magazine

MEN ON THE GO!MAXIMIZEYOUR WARDROBEOPTIONSWHY SHOP LOCAL?DESIGNERDIRECTIONS

RodesForum/The Substance of Style/Fall 2010

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AN ENDURING PASSION FOR FABRIC AND INNOVATION SINCE 1910

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welco

me

We are blessed to visit with many of you throughout the year and swap great stories about life, family, business

and the world. We, like many of you, live the headlines day-to-day. Well without any disrespect to world issues,

the Rodes Family of employees continues to have fun. As with any

extended family, we have times of togetherness and harmony as

well as moments of triumph, disappointment, health and ill-

ness. We are a large family with diverse backgrounds...

there are times we are even a bit dysfunctional!

We have voted, and the group decided to put “fun”

back into dysfunctional!

As a symbolic gesture of having fun, we permanently

set the display clock on the selling floor to 5:00 PM—Happy

Hour!

Come by anytime and visit, and let us make you happy. Your presence certainly boosts our spirits, and we

should all spend more time enjoying the roller coaster ride called life.

So take a break, treat yourself and stop by to say hello. You will have fun and you may be surprised how good

you’ll feel.

Remember, it’s always 5 o’clock at Rodes!

“IT’S ALWAYS 5 O’CLOCK AT RODES.”

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Rodes502-753-RODES (7633)1-800-866-3112www.rodes.com4938 Brownsboro Road, Louisville, KY 40222

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg GrossmanDESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans GschliesserMANAGING EDITOR

Jillian SpraguePROJECT MANAGER

Lisa MontemorraDESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole VendittiCONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ MitchellMERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob MitchellDIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg EadieDIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. StantonBUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUPPUBLISHER

Stuart NifoussiPRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton JonesCHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac BrightonCHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine SullivanAPPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO

Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA

Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN

Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH

Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA

Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX

Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA

Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY

Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT

Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN

Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY

Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA

Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX

Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA

Fashion Forum Magazine is published in 14 regional editions for

member stores of the Apparel Forum Copyright 2010. Published by

Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 •

Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, NY, NY 10018-6108,

212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers

accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts,

transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be

reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 13, Issue

2. Printed In The U.S.A.

FEATURES 1 Welcome Letter5 Rodes Happenings26 The Commissions Myth28 Italian Week at Rodes34 Events44 Dress: Nirvana Through Clothing

FASHION13 Rodes Fashion36 Profile: Eton38 Clothing: Tailored to Perfection 40 Furnishings: Haute Under the Collar48 Men on the Go!56 Get More Bang for Your Buck

DEPARTMENTS 32 Ask Forum62 CEO Style: Maximilian Riedel66 Spirits: Drinkology68 World Scene72 Cooking: A Recipe for Romance74 Sports Style: Art Rooney76 End Page: In the Jeans

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visit

FORUM Magazine Rodes Fall2010_AC W FW10 7/8/10 10:00 AM Page 1

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RodesHappenings

Rodes For Him and For Her

hosts and participates in

events both inside and outside

our store. Here is a look at

some of our trunk shows, bene-

fits and fashion outings from

last season.

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RodesHappenings

On April 15th, nearly 250

“girlfriends” enjoyed the

annual Derby Divas fundrais-

er hosted by Rodes. WAVE-

TV’s Jackie Hays emceed the

event and $85,000 was raised

to benefit the Norton Cancer

Institute. Thank you to every-

one involved.


RodesHappenings

The Rodes family of employ-

ees gathered to celebrate

another year of retail and

enjoyed dinner at 211 Clover

Lane. The setting and food

were excellent and, as you

can see, fun was had by all!

Cheers!

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Rodes’ Customer Appreciation

Day is held annually on the

first Saturday in December.

This day is set aside to say

“thank you” to you, our loyal

friends. Mark your calendars

for Saturday, December 4th,

2010 and join the real Santa

Claus for kids of all ages!

RodesHappenings


RodesHappenings

Rodes For Him recently held its

semi-annual All-American Casual

Saturday. We all enjoyed BBQ & brew

as we celebrated quality sportswear

made in the U.S.A. Representatives

from around the nation were on hand

to assist. Specialty drinks were pro-

vided by Brown-Forman.


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“2008 Best New Restaurant by Esquire Magazine”

5050 Norton Healthcare Blvd. Louisville, KY(502) 327-5058 corbettsrestaurant.com

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FALL FASHION PREVIEW

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canali suiteton shirtferragamo tie


armani collezioni


samuelsohn suitrobert talbott estate shirtrobert talbott 7-fold tie

collection iris dress

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st. john collection


weill collection


etro collection


schneiders outerwearzanella trousers


façonnablecollection


isaia collection

kinross cashmerechristine moore hats


kinross cashmere wrapcookie johnson jeanscraig taylor blouse

robert talbott shirt, tie, sweater and vestagave jeans


robert graham collection


canali sportcoatand trouserseton shirt

nanette lepore


our s

pecia

lists

THE COMMISSIONS MYTH

“BY ELIMINATING COMMISSIONS AND CREATING A TEAM APPROACH YOU GET TO WORK WITH A VARIETY OF PROFESSIONALS EACH OF WHOM ARE SPECIALISTS IN DIFFERENT AREAS.”

One of the most common misconceptions about our store

is that our sales associates work on commission. In reality,

we eliminated commissions at Rodes For Her two years ago

when She of Louisville became part of the Rodes Family,

and at Rodes For Him in 2010. We did this in an effort to

make shopping at Rodes an even more relaxed and friendly

experience.

You are free to work with your tried and true associate or

with anyone you choose, without ever feeling like you have

to wait for help or offend someone if you “float around.”

Also, you get the benefit of working with a team of pro-

fessionals, all of whom have different areas of expertise—be

it a shoe expert, St. John expert or a ready-to-wear expert—

and so on.

The metaphor that comes to mind is the discomfort peo-

ple feel when changing hairdressers within a salon. We

don’t want you to ever feel that way in our store. Our profes-

sionals have different strengths and different styles. Please

work with them and get to know them all!

We are always striving to make improvements in our

store. Our professionals have happily embraced this new

team approach, which makes the experience more pleasant

for them as well. Realizing we never formally announced

this change in any way, we thought you, our friends and cus-

tomers, would like to know!

We look forward to seeing you soon.

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spec

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ITALIAN WEEK AT RODESSEPTEMBER 20—25, 2 010

here’s something about Italian style that turns

heads and wins hearts… especially fine tailored clothing

and luxurious sportswear made in Italy.

Rodes For Him & For Her and the Italian Trade

Comission invite you to a week of Italian luxury

September 20-25. We are celebrating the finest Italy

Thas to offer, including irresistible Italian apparel, exquisite Italian

wine, light cuisine and the music of Italy. Go to rodes.com for all

the details.

Presented by…

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AT HART SCHAFFNER MARX

WE BELIEVE IN MENWITH VALUES, INTEGRITY AND HONOR.

A N A M E R I C A N T R A D I T I O N O F F I N E T A I L O R E D C L O T H I N G S I N C E 1 8 8 7

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Q:I haven’t shopped in a few seasons andmy old clothes are looking dated. How

do I start rebuilding my wardrobe?We’ve broken it down into eleven essentials, in order of importance.Essential #1: The perfect blazer or unconstructed sportcoat. Thisis a must for travel (when pockets are critical) and can be dressedup for work (add a cool tie or pocket square) or down to wear withjeans (add an open-collar shirt, knit top or T-shirt). If you’re buy-ing just one, go with a solid color or a very subtle pattern.Essential #2: The dark dressy suit. Come into the store and we’llhelp you find one that works for both your build and your budget.You’ll notice that the newer suit styles are more fitted—but alsomore comfortable—than the suits in your closet. The secret isboth the fabric and the construction; try one on and we promiseyou’ll be happy. Essential #3: Perfect-fitting flat-front pants in lightweight wool,corduroy or cotton. Don’t be afraid of color, especially in casualfive-pocket models.Essential #4: Great jeans! These should be slim but not tight in adark washed denim. If you’re buying just one pair, skip the ripsand abrasions in favor of a more classic style that will take youanywhere.Essential #5: A great pair of casual shoes or boots. (Rememberthat women always notice shoes first!) Essential #6: Dress shoes: either brown leather or chocolatesuede. Brown shoes go with everything except a tuxedo and actu-ally complement gray and navy suits better than black shoes.Essential #7: A sumptuous cashmere sweater in your favorite color.Try matching your eyes or ask a woman what looks best on you.Essential #8: Some new shirts and ties. Both are slimmer than theyused to be: tie widths have narrowed from three and three quarterinches to three and a half (or less); shirts are no longer loose ortent-like. Add color and pattern to brighten your outlook!Essential #9: Two belts: one for suits, one to wear with jeans.Essential #10: An oblong scarf that can be doubled with the endspulled through the loop for a very European look, indoors or out.Essential #11: Statement accessories like a great leather bag, dis-tinctive eyewear and cool (non-serious) socks. Remember: it’s thelittle things that make the big impressions.

And also remember our favorite quote from Hardy Amies: “Aman should look like he’s chosen his clothes with intelligence, putthem on with care, and then forgotten all about them.”Z

EGNA

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events

rodes gives backthrough fundraisersand events

These are but a few of the events on our schedule. Check our Eventspage at www.rodes.com for updates.

This year, we celebrate the sixth

anniversary of the Gilda’s Night

event, which will be held at

Bittners on November 12th. This

event is more important to us

than ever since we lost two of

our inspirational leaders, Pat

Schilling and Lawrence Smith,

to cancer this year. Pat began

this fundraiser many years ago,

joined the Gilda’s Club board of

directors in 2008, and was

honored at the fifth annual

Gilda’s Night (hosted by Rodes)

last November.

9/9 Samuelsohn Day

9/20 - 9/25 Italian Week - a celebration of Italy

9/22 Canali Trunk Show featuring Fall 2010 9/23 ISAIA, Luciano Barbera & Gravati Showing 9/24 & 9/25 Ermengildo Zegna Fall Showing9/30 - 10/2 Starfire Jewelry & Lourdes Chavez Show

10/15 & 10/16 Schneiders Austrian Outerwear Show

10/19 & 10/20 Zenobia Spring Showing

10/20 - 10/23 Orlanda Olsen Fine Jewelry Show

10/27 Erno Laslo Mask Event (by Appoin ment)t

10/28 St. John Spring 2011 Trunk Show

11/12 Gilda’s Night at Bittners

11/18 & 11/19 Algo Spring 2011 Trunk Show

12/4 Holiday Shopping Day (with the real Santa)

12/4 Cindy Borders Jewelry Show 12/3 & 12/4 David Goodman Couture Outerwear Show1/11 - 1/13/11 Lafayette 148 New York Spring Show

mark your calendarfor these upcomingevents at rodes

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36

WARNING: ETON SHIRTS CANBE HIGHLY ADDICTIVE.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

KILLER SHIRTS

here’s no question that a fabulous shirtcan make or break the outfit. And whilethere’s no shortage of fabulous shirts inthe men’s market these days, few are asremarkable as Eton, an 82-year-oldSwedish company that uses 45 compo-nents and 49 steps to construct each of

its very special garments. “Innovation means throwing caution to the

wind,” asserts Eton’s creative directorSebastian Dollinger, whose inspirationcomes from music, movies and books. “Wedon’t follow fashion trends, we create ourown using the world’s longest staple cotton,the best mills in France and Italy, and themost advanced finishing techniques inSwitzerland (which adds 35 steps to theprocess but is essential for durability, sus-tainability and luster.)” All shirts are pro-duced in Eton’s own factories in Sweden.

Adds U.S. sales director Erik Wilkinson,“We spin and weave everything on two-ply:The weaving is a high torsion method andthe finishing takes more than three weeksusing an organic (not ammonia-based) wash.The process makes the cloth more resilientwith a softer hand and better performance.Plus we top-fuse the collars and cuffs so theshirts stay very clean and crisp.”

While the technical details are impressive,more impressive is the fit. Whether classic,contemporary or slim, these shirts are indi-vidually graded top to bottom so the collarsize is in proportion to all other dimensions(sleeve width, body width, shoulders). Otherdetails include double button cuffs to accom-modate oversized watches (also convertibleto French cuffs); high resin, ergonomicmother-of-pearl buttons; and signature redribbon trim. Most important: Eton’s colorsand patterns are exclusive, expressive andalways exceptional.

Wilkinson points out that fresh product isshipped ten times a year rather than just two,so there’s always new excitement in the store.So check out our latest shirts from Eton: Youwill be amazed at how great you’ll look.

prof

ile

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o celebrate its centennialyear, Ermenegildo Zegnasuits this fall are cut with asoft, slightly-roped shoulderto complement the jacket’s

nipped-in waist and trimmer lapel, alook that characterized the suits ofthe brand’s namesake and founderback in 1910. Brioni is also offering anew shape, called the Senato, whichis cut longer and leaner than theclassic silhouette for which the suitmaker is known. Meanwhile, the gen-tleman who likes Kiton’s sculptedNeapolitan clothing will appreciatethe seemingly unconstructed shoul-

ders and natural chest line found inits newest two-button models.

Every suit maker from Armani toZegna has its own sartorial point ofview this season. However, the sub-tle tailoring nuances that make onesuit better than another are notquite as easy to discern. Nothingsays you’re ready to do business likea suit. And if you’ve bought one inthe last decade, you know thatshoulder pads come and go, lapelsvary from narrow to wide, and ventschange from center to side and backagain, seemingly on the whim ofsome designer’s mood. While such

stylistic details can alert you to thelatest trends, they have little to dowith how well a suit is made.

Like the plumbing and electricalcomponents camouflaged behind thedrywall in your home, much of asuit’s construction is concealedbehind beautiful interior Bembergsilk linings. Opening the seams tosee what’s inside is simply not anoption and, thankfully, not reallynecessary. That’s because many ofthe hallmarks of fine suit making arevisible right there on the surface.That is, if you know where to look.

The easiest way to recognize the

KNOWING HOW WELL YOUR SUIT IS MADE IS AS SIMPLEAS KNOWING WHAT TO LOOK FOR. BY WILLIAM KISSEL

TAILORED TO PERFECTION

cloth

ing

38

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quality of a suit is by touching thefabric used to make it. To para-phrase Anna Zegna, a scion of theprestigious Italian clothing brandlaunched a century ago by hergrandfather, only the finest fabricswith the softest hand are used toproduce high quality suits. The finerthe cloth, the better the materialdrapes and retains the shape of thegarment. Typically the rarest fab-rics, including fine micron wool,silk, cashmere and vicuña, can costhundreds, even thousands, of dollarsa yard and are therefore reserved foronly the world’s premier suit makerswho understand how to tailor theminto wearable works of art. As youmight expect, the cost of a suit iscomparable to the fabric used tomake it, so in one sense it’s possibleto judge quality based on price. Butit’s much more than that.

“I always suggest putting on thejacket to immediately see the differ-ence,” says Kiton chief executiveAntonio de Matteis, who often refersto the brand’s signature suits as con-forme al corpo, or second skins,because they are constructed asclose to the body as technically pos-sible. Closely following the lines ofthe body is considered a mark ofquality because such precision fitcan only be achievedby a highly skilled tailor.If done properly, the form-fitting silhouette should feelsurprisingly more comfortable,and look more elegant, than suitjackets extolling a roomier fit.

“A very chic suit is the one thatnobody notices from a far distancebut it’s easy to tell that it’s beautifuland well-made when you see it closeup,” adds de Matteis. Perfectionbegins “the moment the humanhand takes the place of themachine,” he concludes.

• Hand-stitched horsehair canvas linings (not fused or glued canvas) inside thechest and waist help retain the jacket’s shape. Pinch the jacket at thebottom front. If you can feel three layers of fabric—the cloth, the lining andthe floating canvas inner lining—it’s the real deal.

• A little extra fabric on the trouser inseams and interior seat, as well as a splitwaistband, make the garment easier to alter.

• Interior sleeves that are hand stitched to the shoulders allow for completeease of movement.

• A boutonniere stay under the lapel is a useful detail found only in thefinest suits.

• Buttons inside trouser cuffs make it easier to “get the lint out.”

• Hand pick-stitched lapels. Look for slightly uneven stitching as the hallmarkof human hands.

• Interior pockets sewn into the actual jacket fabric, not the lining, retain thejacket’s clean aesthetic.

• A knot threaded between the button and the jacket makes fastening easier.

Sometimes all it takes to recognize quality is a quick peek at the label. Prestige brandsoften operate their own factories and closely oversee production. By comparison, manydesigners or no-name suit makers rely on their well-known names or a too-good-to-believeprice tag. There are plenty of exceptions, so ask your salesperson to be sure.

39

TELLTALE SIGNS OF QUALITY INCLUDE:

CORNELIANI

CORNELIANI

CORNELIANI

KITON

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Shirt makers often brag about thethread count of their fine cotton fab-rics, the single-needle stitching atthe seams, the split-shoulderedyokes, even the distinctive crow’sfoot stitching used to fasten themother-of-pearl buttons.

But before you get bogged downby myriad styling, color and patternoptions, make sure that your shirtcollar and tie knot are the propermatch for your face.

“Think of your face as a portraitand your shirt collar as its frame,”offers menswear designer andauthor Alan Flusser, whoapproached the subject of propershirt selection in his book Style andthe Man.

“The collar’s height on your neckas well as the length and spread ofits points should complement theshape and size of your face,” heexplains, noting that most menlook their best when they under-stand which collars enhance theirfeatures.

It doesn’t require a degree in shirtscience to comprehend the princi-ples of picking the proper collar.Think of your collar and necktie as acounterbalance to the dimensions of

furn

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MOST MEN LOOK THEIR BEST WHENTHEY UNDERSTAND WHICH COLLARSENHANCE THEIR FEATURES.

The proper collarand knot cangreatly improveyour look. ByWilliam Kissel

HAUTEUNDER THECOLLAR

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your face and thickness of yourneck. A long and narrow face, forinstance, will look fuller peeking outof a high-collared shirt with a mod-

erate spread collar and fuller tieknot, such as a Windsor, Shelby orhalf-Windsor. In contrast, a broadface and thick neck can be made to

look leaner and longer simply bysporting a medium collar shirt andthinner knot, especially when bothrest just below the collarbone.

42

These simple rules will help guideyou to sartorial success:

Spread or Cutaway Spread collar shirts (and the slightly shorter,wider cutaway collar for more formal occasions) are designed to be worn with neck-wear featuring a full or half-Windsor knot, a relatively wide knot once favored by(and named for) Edward VIII, the late Duke of Windsor. Designed to complement along, narrow face, these collars are being featured as a fashion trend this season,often shown with skinny ties.

Straight or Long-Point Among the oldest and most universallyaccepted, the exaggerated straight-point collar, sometimes called a long-point, isgenerally three inches or longer and most effective at making a round, broad, oroval-shaped face appear more angular. Ideal for heavyset or athletic men in need ofa slight slimming effect (or soft-chinned men craving a strong line under the jaw),this versatile collar can have a similar elongating effect on men with a shorterstance. Because of the narrow opening between the collar points, a classic four-in-hand neckwear knot with its flattering conical form achieves the perfect balance.

Tab or Pinned More casual than a classic straight-point collar, the tab orpin-collared shirt is primarily intended for use with a blazer or sport coat. Its dis-tinctive feature is a buttoning bridge between the two wings—or eyelets on thewings used with a tie bar—to form a snug fit around a small, neat, four-in-hand knot.Because the bridge forces the collar higher up and the knot outward on the neck,this is an ideal combination for those looking to camouflage a long neck.

Button-down Originally worn by 19th century English polo players tokeep their shirt collars from flapping during play, button-down collared shirtsbecame an Ivy League tradition after they were adopted in the early 1900s by thelate John Brooks of Brooks Brothers. A sporty alternative to the straight-point, thebutton-down (worn buttoned or unbuttoned depending on the degree of casualness)is best suited to a patterned four-in-hand knotted necktie. New button-down collarsare larger with a slight roll.

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DESIGNED BY EDWARD WILKERSONDESIGNED BY EDWARD WILKERSON

LAFAYETTE148.COMLAFAYETTE148.COM

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uring his time, my grandfather built asuccessful retail business. Every sum-mer, I’d spend days at his stores,working the floor, watching customers

and learning the meaning of luxury.According to my grandfather, our choice ofclothing is one of the most important decisionswe make each day. In a world of turmoil, thismight sound superficial, but think about it:Whenever you step out of your house, what youwear and how you wear it sends a message tothose you encounter. What’s more, the way youlook is directly correlated to the way you feel. Ifyour wardrobe makes you feel great, you walkthe walk. Much like an athlete’s uniform, yourchoice of clothing sets the mood, creates theattitude. When you’re in the zone, everyone youinteract with feels that energy and reacts to it.

Clothing is far more than fabric to cover thebody. It’s a way you express a sense of style tothe world, creating a unique state of mind.

dres

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NIRVANATHROUGHCLOTHING

ACCORDING TO MY GRANDFATHER,OUR CHOICE OF CLOTHING IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT DECISIONSWE MAKE EACH DAY.

Get ready to transform your life.By Vivek Nagrani

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Every piece of clothing you ownshould enhance your lifestyle. Eacharticle should work to create multi-ple looks and bring variation whencombined with the rest of yourwardrobe.

his fall, I encourage youto seek Nirvana by apply-ing a few small changesto your wardrobe—andyour attitude. If you peerthrough your closet andfind yourself bored or

uninspired, choose change. Whenyou start to enjoy what you wear,you start to feel better. If clothingserves merely a utilitarian purpose,you have missed out on a veryenjoyable part of life. Would a gen-tleman drink an inferior wine justbecause it is on the table? As in allareas of life, one should savor eachexperience, including something assimple as putting on underwear orsocks.

That said, here are a few thoughtson how you can enhance your life byadjusting your wardrobe.

Starting from the top: the jacket.Soft coats are essential to the manon the move. When I say soft coat, Iam referring to a less constructedcoat that has a natural, soft shoul-der. The fit is tailored, and the lookis flattering for all body types.Unless your health club requires youto work out in your jacket, you don’tneed to size up. (My recommenda-tion this season: a soft cashmeresportcoat that goes with anything.)

Next, the shirt. Gone are the daysof the man-blouse, that billowy flowof fabric hanging out of yourtrousers. For men on the husky side,fitted shirts make you appear leanerand more put together. For the trimguy, the slimmer shirt highlightsyour sexy shape.

Let’s talk trousers. For me, any-

thing more than a single pleat isunnecessary unless you are a mem-ber of the Russian dead lifting team.Your chinos are great, and I’m sureyou’ve had great times in them, butit’s time to refine that look. The five-pocket trouser is an ideal choice forboth casual and dress. Choose softfabrics like corduroy, cotton twill orbrushed cotton. Combined with asoft coat, you have many moreoptions than with denim or chino.And the look is modern and elegant.

The belt can make or break yourwhole look. When selected correctly,a belt can slim the waist as well asfinish or enhance an outfit. Differenttrousers require different belts. A

belt you wear with a suit will lookridiculous when worn with denim.An easy rule to remember: the beltshould fill the belt loop. For denim,try something playful, interestingand different. For dress, try skinswith unique textures. In general,your belt should match your shoe,but rules can be broken, especiallywith denim.

A woman can size up any manjust by looking at his shoes. Moveaway from black this season in favorof brown or cordovan to take yourentire wardrobe to the next level.For fall, try a half boot to change thedrape of your trouser. Loafers aregreat with more casual looks, but if

you’re wearing a suit, go with a lace-up or monk strap.

As with anything in life, the differ-ence is in the details. Believe it ornot, even great socks can changeyour mood, put a smile on your faceand get the woman across the roomto come by and say hello.

Above all, shop with enthusiasm.Enjoy each item you purchase, savorthe experience and have fun withyour clothes. It’s all a part of cele-brating life.

Vivek Nagrani is a well-dressedmenswear designer who knows howto celebrate life. You can find hissmile-inducing socks in our store.

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BELIEVE IT OR NOT, EVEN GREATSOCKS CAN CHANGE YOUR MOOD,PUT A SMILE ON YOUR FACE AND GETTHE WOMAN ACROSS THE ROOM TOCOME BY AND SAY HELLO.

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MEN ON

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Photographed by JON MOE Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

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LIFE IS A JOURNEY. TRAVEL IN STYLE!

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ways tomaximize your wardrobe

12GET MORE

BANG! FORYOUR BUCK

THE SUITPhotographed by JEFFREY APOIAN Produced by SUSAN F. SIDOR

Fash_Bang.ps - 7/28/2010 13:21 PM

1 RELAX: WEAR THE SUIT JACKETWITH AN OPEN COLAR

2YOUNG & HIP: MIX IT UP WITH AVEST AND BOWTIE.

3IMPRESS: WEAR AN ASCOT ANDJEANS

4ALL BUSINESS: A GREAT TIE & POCKETSQUARE IS ALWAYS RIGHT.

1 ALL DRESSED UPCAN’T GO WRONG WITH CLASSIC COLOR, CURRENT CUT

2NIGHT OUT A SUIT JACKET DOES DOUBLE DUTY WORN WITH DARK JEANS

3BUSINESS CASUALFLAT-FRONT PANTS ARE MODERN AND SLIMMING

4RELAXED ELEGANCEADD A GREAT VEST AND DRESS SHIRT

Fash_Bang.ps - 7/28/2010 13:21 PM

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1 ON THE GOTHIS FUNCTIONAL BLAZER HELPS YOU TRAVEL IN STYLE

2PREPPY STYLEADD A CABLE KNIT AND A VIBRANT POCKET SQUARE

3SPORTY CHICCOOL AND COMFORTABLE OVER CASHMERE

4BUTTONED UPTHE SPORTCOAT GOES DRESSY IN A TAILORED LOOK

Fash_Bang.ps - 7/28/2010 13:22 PM

THE TRAVELERSPORTCOAT

4 ways to wear

Fash_Bang.ps - 7/28/2010 13:22 PM

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1 WEEKEND COMFORTPAIR THE OUTER SHELL WITH A SOFT BUT CHIC HOODIE

2KEEPING WARM LAYER WITH A FITTED SPORT SHIRT AND CARDIGAN

3INNER BEAUTYTHE LIGHTWEIGHT INNER SHELL WORKS WITH ANY OUTFIT

4DRESS IT UP THE JACKET STEPS UP ITS STYLE OVER A SPORTCOAT

Fash_Bang.ps - 7/28/2010 13:22 PM

At 33, Maximilian Riedel, CEO ofRiedel Crystal of North America, adivision of Riedel Glas Austria, is inan enviable position: young enoughto drive the motorcycles andFerraris he collects, old enough toknow that his good fortune comesdown through 11 generations ofhard-working craftsmen. Riedel co-owns the iconic glassware companywith his father Georg, which in thepast decade has come to dominatethe wine and spirits glassware mar-ket, particularly in the realm ofglasses designed for specific wines,now a $330 million-per-year busi-ness. While recent essays in

Gourmet and Wine Spectator havechallenged the Riedel-supportednotion that unique glass shapes (orprices) actually enhance specificwines and their impact on thetongue, there is no doubt that theglassware is beautiful, and a restau-rant table set with three or four dis-tinctively contoured wine glasses is

CEO

style

“PEOPLE WHO HAVE AN EYE FOR[STYLE] ARE LIKELY PEOPLE WHO RUNDETAIL-ORIENTED BUSINESSES.”

Riedel scion and CEO Maximilian Riedel loves hardwork and high fashion. By Robert Haynes Peterson

GLASS HOUSE

“Since I produce handmade productsmyself, I enjoy quality, handmade clothing.”

62

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A heritage of Swedish design and innovation since 1928

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certain to impress increasingly dis-cerning customers. MaximilianRiedel—who delivers his homilieswith both an Austrian austerity andan American sense of humor—isalso a passionate watch collector,loves his tailored clothing and hand-made shoes, and appreciates it allfrom the perspective of a self-pro-claimed micromanager who helpscraft his own fine product. Wecaught up with Riedel as he wasannouncing the winner of this year’sNachtmann Design prize at thePratt Institute in New York.

How did you get to your current role in thefamily business? My sister and I grew up in Austria,with our parents both working.When I was 11, we were sent toCanada for summer camp. It taughtme independence and a second lan-guage. At 12, my father told me, “Ifyou’re not interested in school, youshould think about getting a job.” Itook an internship in the glass fac-tory and learned my lesson: I want-ed to stay in school.

I began working officially forthe company in 1997, whileattending business school. I hadthe option to move to the U.S.(which was a small operation forus 10 years ago), or Japan. Ichose the U.S., where anything ispossible, and I saw potential. Atthe time our company was basedin Long Island, which I felt wasnot the right location. We decidedto move to Manhattan. We alsosaw how the restaurant environ-ment was growing, so welaunched a restaurant productrange. The business has grownsubstantially and the U.S. is nowour number-one market. I wasappointed CEO in 2004.

You and your father co-own the business,and seem to be very hands-on.My father is one of those co-workersyou can trust and rely on. We haveabout 2,000 employees worldwide,but we’re involved in every big deci-sion-making process in every mar-ket. My father is spending a lot oftime in India right now, because weare launching independent daughtercompanies in China and India in thenext couple of years.

A micromanaging family might bechallenging for some employees, no?I think it is a challenge for the uppermanagement. They do need tounderstand this is a family business,which not everyone is made for. Onthe plus side, you get a decisionfrom us within 24 hours. We jumpon opportunities right away—there’sno committee or board that needs todeliberate. Of course, decisions canbe made in the wrong way, but inthe long run, it’s worked for us.

Yet you’re more than just the “MoneyGuys.”Exactly. We’re not just businessmenin suits and ties, we’re also design-ers. Everything you see in the Riedelcollection has been first created inour heads. That’s something to beproud of. We see these glasses asinstruments, not so much objects. Inthat respect we’re more akin to theBauhaus school of architecture,where form and function are equallyimportant. This makes us uniquecompared to competitors who hiredesigners to make something sim-ply to be pretty.

Speaking of “suits and ties,” you’re alwaysdressed to the nines, it seems.Since I produce handmade prod-ucts myself, I enjoy quality, hand-

made clothing. My grandfather andfather had everything tailored: Ourtailor is in Munich, we get shirtsfrom a tailor in Venice, and there’sa nice shoe maker in Vienna.Today I’m wearing a blue lizardshoe which I helped design. Theway people dress is an indicationof how they do business; peoplewho have an eye for these thingsare likely people who run detail-oriented businesses like ours. But[style] doesn’t always translate: Iwear the most beautiful Hermèspocket square, which I love. I wasat a nightclub for a work event,and this man said, “My God, howcan you wear this, isn’t it out offashion?” I was the only one in asuit and pocket square at 11 p.m.,and this man thought badly of mebecause I wasn’t in an untuckedshirt and loafers. But I was work-ing; when I’m casual, it’s a differ-ent story.

So clothes do make the person?It’s interesting how the youngergeneration approaches this. Sure,they have great business ideas,but if you look at the industrialicons, how they presented them-selves to the public was as impor-tant as their ideas. I believestrongly the suit will come backas a business statement. With asuit, you never overdress, younever underdress.

What’s more, it makes good busi-ness sense. Jeans nowadays can gofor $400 or more. They go in and outof fashion in a year. A suit can last alifetime. Casual fashion can be asexpensive as a tailored suit, andpeople don’t realize it. This is mypoint of view, anyway. Whether itsounds old fashioned or not, it hasserved me well.

64

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“A good drink is a good drink. Agreat drink is a good drink with agreat story.” This bon mot was iter-ated by Tanqueray Gin brandambassador Angus Winchester atthis spring’s first-ever ManhattanCocktail Classic. Thanks to arenewed interest in classic cocktailsand intrepid researchers like DavidWondrich (Imbibe!), Robert Hess ofthe Museum of the AmericanCocktail, and Anastatia Miller andJared Brown (Spirituous Journey, AHistory of Drink), the often anecdot-al and competing histories of ourfavorite cocktails are nowadaysarriving at something closer to thetruth. Though as “Wine Geek” andbartending instructor Steve Olsonsays, it’s all still “murky bar history.”

Sazerac: A New Orleans original,right? Maybe. Cocktail historianWondrich notes that the first knownpublished reference to the Sazeraccocktail is in an 1840 New Orleanspaper quoting a New York Citypaper. Oh the horror! Another drinkthat initially employed Cognac(before rye), America’s FirstCocktail is credited to Dr. AntoineAmedee Peychaud (of Peychaud’s

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BEWARE THE BARTENDER WHO DOES NOTREFRIGERATE HIS VERMOUTH.

The best cocktails come with a great backstory.By Robert Haynes-Peterson

DRINKOLOGY

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Bitters fame) who was drinkingwith friends in his office and threwtogether a little absinthe, bittersand a Cognac called Sazerac-de-Forge et Fils. Et voila! The namestuck when proprietor JohnSchiller opened New OrleansSazerac Coffee House in 1859.

Martini: For years, the “Martinez”—agin, vermouth, cherry liqueur andbitters concoction that appears inbartending icon Jerry Thomas’s1887 edition of How to MixDrinks—was considered the “grand-father” of the Martini. Problem is,the ingredients don’t line up allthat well. Perhaps it’s more of an“uncle.” Winchester’s “MartiniFamily Tree” includes three signifi-cant ancestors: the Martinez, theTurf Club (Dutch gin and sweetvermouth) and bartender HarryJohnson’s 1895 Marguerite (not tobe confused with the Margarita)which includes Plymouth Gin, dryvermouth and bitters. Oddly,Johnson’s “Martini” (first knownuse of the word) has almost noth-ing to do with a modern Martini.Wondrich, meanwhile, exploresfour stories in his book Imbibe!,including that Judge RudolphMartine invented the drink at theManhattan Club by ordering gin

rather than rye, and French overItalian vermouth in his Manhattancocktail. Insider’s Tip: Beware thebartender who does not refrigeratehis vermouth. Definitely stirred,NOT shaken, says AngusWinchester.

Dr. Funk: Tiki drinks are hot rightnow, and the Dr. Funk is a uniqueintroduction to the tropical cocktailworld, beyond Piña Coladas.Though a standard recipe appearsin Trader Vic’s 1947 Bar Guide,what’s particularly cool is that Dr.Bernard Funk was a real guy and aclose friend of author Robert LouisStevenson (who retreated to Samoafor his final years). The good doc-tor was known for adding lemonadeand absinthe to “a stiff drink,” andthe cocktail evolved from there. Inthe new book Speakeasy: TheEmployees Only Guide to ClassicCocktails, With a Twist (October2010), the authors/bartenders haveupdated the Dr. Funk withMekhong Thai rum, ginger beerand mint. Insider’s Tip: The drinkis traditionally served in a FuManchu mug, not a Tiki mug.

Sidecar: The Sidecar is “a beautifulgift from the French,” saysWondrich, “and one of the onlygood cocktails to come out ofProhibition.” But the cognac-based“Daisy” (any long drink with a basespirit, citrus and a sweetner) has itsroots in Jerry Thomas’s 1876Improved Brandy Cocktail. JosephSantina, a New Orleans bar owner,is credited with rimming a glasswith lemon juice and sugar in 1852,and creating the “Crusta” category,crucial to the evolution of Sidecars,Margaritas and other cocktails. Thefirst mention of the Sidecar byname is in Harry McElhone’s 1919

Harry’s ABC of Cocktails, where hecredits London bartender PatrickMacGarry with inventing it. RobertVermiere’s 1922 Cocktails, How ToMix Them instead says the drinkwas popular in France duringWorld War I, and was named for anAmerican Army Captain who rodeto and from Paris mainstay Henry’sBar in a motorcycle sidecar, andhelped design the drink. The finish-ing touch—the sugared rim—does-n’t show up until after Prohibitionin the mid-1930s.

Margarita: Another in the “Daisy”category of drinks, the Margaritahas more creation stories than anyother popular cocktail except, per-haps, the Cosmopolitan. “TheMargarita really got its start astequila-spiked lemonade on theroadsides of Mexico,” says Junior

Merino, the Liquid Chef and aMexican-born bar consultant inNew York. The combination oftequila, triple sec and lime—essen-tially a Tequila Sidecar—boasts atleast eight 1940s-era “inventors,”but didn’t grab national attentionin the U.S. until well into the 1970s.Our favorite origin story: The drinkis named after actress RitaHayworth (birth name MargaritaCansino) by one or more bar-tenders while she was a dancer inTijuana. The truth may be far moremundane: The Spanish word fordaisy is margarita. AyAyAy!

67

DR. FUNKCOCKTAIL

(From Trader Vic 1947)

1/2 oz dark Jamaican rum

1/4 oz Clandestine

Absinthe

1/2 oz lemon juice

1/4 oz grenadine

1/4 tsp sugar

fresh lime

Cut lime in quarters,

muddle in a mixing glass.

Add liquid ingredients and

sugar. Shake with ice and

strain into a chimney

glass. Top with club soda

or sparkling water, and

garnish with fresh fruit and

a fresh, edible flower.

MARTINEZ(from Jerry Thomas 1887)

dash Boker’s Bitters

dash Maraschino Liqueur

1 oz Old Tom Gin

2 oz Antica Formula Sweet

Vermouth

Pour ingredients into a

mixing glass, shake with

ice and strain into a

cocktail glass. Garnish

with a lemon slice. Can be

sweetened with 2 dashes

gum syrup.

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LET THEM EAT CAKEAfter drawing customers from all over France to his boulangeriein Strasbourg for over 20 years, Master Patissier, Confiseur andGlacier Vincent Koenig and his wife Isabelle have come toAmerica and opened Isabelle et Vincent in Fairfield,Connecticut. Here they create sublime French pastries, trufflesmade with Valrhona chocolate, breads, quiches and tarts, andeven homemade ice creams. For the autumn and winter months,Vincent prepares marrons glacís (candied chestnuts), layeredhot chocolate (an intoxicating concoction of both dark and milkValrhona chocolate) and brioche noelle (a traditional French logcake filled with chocolate, coffee, vanilla and praline).

The World at Your Door: European experiencesin America. By Donald Charles Richardson

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Nestled at the foot of the Carnicand Julian Alps in northeast Italy,the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region iscelebrated for its food and wine.Now the cuisine, culture and wineof Friuli can be found in anothermountain district. James BeardFoundation Award winners, MasterSommelier Bobby Stuckey andChef Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson, have opened Frasca inBoulder, Colorado. The menu com-bines local organic produce andfoods with Friuli-style flair in dish-es like Colorado lamb withMarzano tomato ragu. The winelist is extensive and includes therestaurant’s own Friuli-made wine,Scarpetta. To keep Frasca authen-tic, the entire staff travels annuallyto Italy and brings back new ideas.This fall, guests can look forwardto a variety of veal dishes withwhite truffles, served with avibrant 2004 Vajra Barolo.

ITALIAN DINING HITS THE PEAKS

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KNOWLEDGE WISDOM TRUTH

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70

The quiet, graceful Carnegie Hill neighborhood of New York City’sUpper East Side is home to important museums and magnificenttownhouses. Among the most impressive is a three-story mansion inthe Neoclassical French style, built in 1930 by architect John RussellPope for Virginia Graham Fair Vanderbilt. International antiques deal-ers Carlton Hobbs and Stefanie Rinza painstakingly restored the houseto its former glory as a showplace for their European antique gallery.The collection includes a superb porcelain and gilt bronze-mounteddemi-lune side table by Bellange, originally acquired for CarltonHouse by George IV, and a Travertine dining table designed by HenryMoore. The Carlton Hobbs Gallery is open to the public, offering aremarkable opportunity to discover rare treasures.

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ON A MISSIONThe Mission Inn in Riverside,California started as a 12-room adobeboarding house in the 1870s. FrankMiller turned it into a luxury hotel in1903, decorating it with objects gath-ered on his numerous trips to Europe.There are flying buttresses, an interiorSpanish courtyard with an Italian-inspired bronze Bacchus fountain, mar-ble mosaics, frescos and a unique col-lection of 400 bells strewn throughoutthe grounds, a favorite of Miller’s.Included is the oldest dated bell inChristendom (A.D. 124), brought fromEngland. Today, even the service has aEuropean flair. There’s an impressivewine list, an authentic Italian restau-rant, and the 7,000 square foot spa uti-lizes European techniques and oils.

THE MANSION ON THE HILL

For nearly 30 years, Seattlewine merchant McCarthy &Schiering has been collect-ing and offering theirclients wonderful winesfrom around the world.Divided between two shopsare nearly 1,500 Europeanwines focusing primarily onsmall individual estates ofFrance and Italy, andrecently the vintages beingproduced in Austria, Spain,Portugal and Germany. Thisfall, for a simple dinner,McCarthy & Schiering rec-ommends Pico MaccarioLavignone Barbera d’Asti(about $13). On more lavishoccasions, you might serveone of the finest handcraft-ed wines from France,Chateau d’Yquem. (Thechateau dates back to the1600s and grapes arepicked as many as tentimes per vintage in partialclusters.) 100 bottles will beoffered in an immense 15liter size for $20,000.

VINTAGES ON THE EDGE

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est.

twenty years

Our 20th AnniversaryIn October 1990, the first pair of Bills Khakis rolled off the line. That pair of khakis represented something

pretty special. 20 years later, the world has changed, but not Bills Khakis. Our commitment to timeless, American-made value remains as important as ever. You have dutifully worn through pair after pair,

faithfully coming back to replace that which you’ve grown so familiar. Thank you for your continued support and for finding value in what we do and how we do it.

Cut & Sewn in the U.S.A.

CELEBRATING 60 YEARSOF AU T H E N T IC A M E R IC A N ST Y L E

www . r o b e r t t a l b o t t . c om

1950-2010

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HEAT UP COLD NIGHTS WITHA HOME COOKED MEAL FORTWO. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

72

hile dining out has itsbenefits, sometimes there’s noth-ing more romantic than an inti-mate date night at home. Withthe help of Eric S. Lee’s SweepingHer Off Her Feet With Food, evennovice chefs can master sure-to-wow dishes like Duck Breast withRaspberry Ginger Sauce andLamb Osso Bucco.

Lee provides full menus forsimple but delicious meals, laidout in order of increasing diffi-culty. He also offers easy tips forenhancing the mood, dressing toimpress (we can help with that!)and setting a beautiful table. Likeany good cookbook, there’s aglossary of terms and photos ofthe basic tools you’ll need. ButLee’s deeper message is that ourrelationships deserve the sameamount of effort we devote to theother areas of our increasinglyhectic lives. When you take the

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Romanceextra time to make your partnerfeel special, good things aresure to follow. Wink.

This recipe for Baked Tilapiawith Ratatouille was created byLee exclusively for Forum read-ers. It’s a great fall dish that’ssimple yet hearty, and a snap tomake. End with a box offavorite chocolate truffles for ano hassle dessert. (Continued)

ARECIPEFOR

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Baked Tilapia with Ratatouille2 4-6 ounce tilapia filets (or othermild fish like sole or halibut)1 medium zucchini cut lengthwiseand sliced into half-moons1 small eggplant diced into 1 inchcubes4 fresh Roma tomatoes, diced3 cloves of garlic, chopped1/3 cup red onion, chopped1/4 teaspoon thyme 1/4 teaspoon oregano1/4 cup white wine1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons olive oil1/2 cup brown ricesalt and pepper to tastePreheat oven to 3750. Place a 2-quartsaucepan on stove over medium highheat. Add 1/4 cup olive oil. Once oil iswarm, add zucchini and eggplant andsauté for 3 to 4 minutes, until vegeta-bles begin to soften. Add garlic andonion, then stir and sauté until

translucent, about 2 minutes. Turnheat to high and immediately pour inwhite wine. Cook mixture until liquidbegins to evaporate, about 1 minute.Add tomatoes, thyme and oreganoand cook for 1 minute, then reduceheat to simmer and cook for 15 min-utes, stirring occasionally. Add saltand pepper to taste.

Prepare brown rice according toinstructions on package.

Salt and pepper both sides of eachfish filet and place in an 11 x 9 inch

baking dish oiled with 2 tablespoonsof olive oil. Place in oven and bakefor 7 to 9 minutes, until fish iscooked through and flakes whenpierced with a fork. Remove fromoven and place fish filets on top of1/4 cup of cooked brown rice placedin the center of dinner plate. SpoonRatatouille on top of fish and servewith warmed artisan bread and oliveoil for dipping.

Enjoy with a light bodied Merlot,Pinot Noir, Beaujolais or Rioja.

73

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F A S H I O N S F O R E V E R Y L I F E S T Y L E A N D S E A S O N

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It all began in 1933 with $2,500 anda vision.

Both the money and the magicwere provided by Arthur J. Rooney,Sr., one of the great pioneers of thesports world. When “The Chief,” ashe was fondly called, founded thePittsburgh Steelers franchise onJuly 8, 1933, there were only fourother NFL teams in existence:Chicago (now Arizona) Cardinals,Green Bay Packers, Chicago Bearsand New York Giants. It was a

touchdown moment in history that,76 years later, would result in theNFL franchise to first capture sixSuper Bowl titles.

From his South Side office inPittsburgh, The Chief’s grandsonand namesake, Arthur J. Rooney II,retells the now legendary story withabsolute pride and just a hint of anIrish smile.

“It all started from fairly humblebeginnings,” says Rooney, Presidentof the Pittsburgh Steelers since

2003. “According to my grandfather,he never made any money his firstdecade in the business. When hestarted the team, it was one of sever-al sports ventures he was involvedin. At the time, one of the most prof-itable ones was professional boxingand he was a fight promoter. It wasa much bigger business than profootball in the ’30s. It’s fair to saythat [boxing] probably funded theteam… that was the pocket he hadthe money in.”

Fast forward almost eight decadesand the $2,500 investment is now amulti-million dollar football enter-prise. The Steelers’ third generationowner is now responsible for build-ing the impenetrable team of coach-es and players that can return himto Super Bowl glory in 2010.

THE ROONEY LEGACY While his grandfather was a larger-than-life, cigar-smoking Irishman,much beloved and revered byPittsburghers even after his death in1988, his grandson exudes a morequiet, subdued presence. He is aman committed not only to his roleas president of the Pittsburgh

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THE TERM TEAM PLAYER APPLIES ALL THE WAYAROUND, NOT JUST TO THE PLAYERS IN THE LOCKERROOM, BUT TO EVERYONE IN THE ORGANIZATION.

Pittsburgh Steelers’ Arthur J. Rooney II carries the ball for thefamily that changed football history. By Cally Jamis Vennare

TOUCHDOWN MOMENT

74

Arthur J. Rooney II, left, with his father Dan Rooney and Pittsburgh Steelers headcoach Mike Tomlin after their 2009 Super Bowl win

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Steelers, but also to ensuring thatthe legacy and standards set by hisgrandfather and continued by hisfather Dan (now the U.S.Ambassador to Ireland andChairman Emeritus of thePittsburgh Steelers) are proudly car-ried forth.

Yet Rooney’s original game planvaried significantly from that of hispredecessors. While they both spenttheir careers in business, he prac-ticed law for over 20 years. But inthe late ’90s the future of ThreeRivers Stadium (at that time theshared home of the PittsburghPirates and the Pittsburgh Steelers)was in question. “At that point, myfather had enough on his plate thathe delegated the stadium issue tome. From there my involvement inthe team continued to grow.”

In the end, each sports team builtits own distinct stadium. Rooneywas intimately involved in the cre-ation of the Steelers’ current home,Heinz Field, which opened in 2001.Seven years later, Heinz Field wasthe site of one of his most memo-rable career moments: the Steelers’2008 AFC Championship win. “Forme it was a special moment becauseit was the first time we’d won achampionship game at Heinz Field.We couldn’t get over that hump. Sowhen we finally did, the feeling inthe stadium that night was awfullyspecial. It was a night I will neverforget because of the amount oftime and energy I had put into mak-ing that building happen.”

Being exposed to mentors likeChuck Noll, Jim Bost and JoeGordon—long-time Steelers coachesand pros—also made a significantimpact. Teamwork and good charac-ter remain essential to the Steelerspresident at every level of his enter-prise. “My grandfather and my

father always believed in surround-ing yourself with good people inbusiness. [The term] team playerapplies all the way around, not justto the players in the locker room,but to everyone in the organization.”

THE FUTURE OF FOOTBALLThere is no denying that, even afterall these years, the Steelers presi-dent is still energized and excitedby the game. His gestures broadenand his soft eyes get fiery when hetalks about our country’s numberone spectator sport.

Each successive Rooney genera-

tion has upheld its stance on theimportance of the National FootballLeague in the overall organizationalstrategy of the team. They staunchlybelieve that the Steelers, as part ofthe NFL, must be respectful of thatpartnership. “While each team han-dles its own business, we operate ina way where what’s good for theLeague has to be the priority. ”

Yet he is both complimentary andcautionary. “Our main job is toensure that the business of footballdoes not screw up the game of foot-ball, because it has become a bigbusiness. But at its core, what makesit so very appealing is that we havea great game…and people love it andare passionate about it. And theplayers are passionate about it.”

What’s good for the NFL and forbusiness must not come at theexpense of that passion, emphasizesRooney, “because that’s what is trulydriving the train.”

THE LAST WORD ON STYLE Both on and off the field, Rooneyexudes a subtle sophistication. Hisstyle is, by his own admission, “con-servative.” Favored designersinclude Zegna, Hickey Freeman andBurberry.

Does his wife Greta influence hisfashion style? After 25 years of mar-riage, she’s still attempting to addcolor to his traditional palette.

“She’s not thrilled with all the blueand gray suits I have in my closet.So once in a while she’ll go out andbuy me a bright yellow blazer.” Herplayful attempt to blend a conserva-tive blazer with the more vibrant ofhis team’s black and gold colorsdoes not escape him. “Well, there’sonly one or two times a year I’llwear that,” he laughs in response.“Maybe on Easter, but who knowswhen else...” Keep trying Greta.

75

THE NFL, THE PITTSBURGHSTEELERS AND UNITED WAYGiving back to the community has alwaysbeen a Rooney family priority and ahallmark of both the NFL and PittsburghSteelers enterprises. One of the mostvisible national examples of communitycollaboration is the NFL and United WayPartnership. For over 35 years, thepartnership has exemplified the tangiblegood that can come when the NFL joinsforces with the world’s largest nonprofit tocreate real change in communities acrossthe country.

“There is a history of connection to theUnited Way going back to my grandfather,and a strong corporate commitment overthe years,” notes Rooney II. As Chair ofUnited Way of Allegheny County, he hashelped reshape and refocus its efforts toensure that all dollars raised are directedto the community’s most critical needs.

“We receive so much support from thecommunity [so] we try to be involved andbe leaders in the community. We’ve beenfortunate that many of our playersunderstand the value of giving back. CharlieBatch is our best example. It’s remarkableto see and a great example not only for ourplayers, but for our city.”

To learn more about United Way, visitwww.liveunited.org.

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I’m visiting my ex-girlfriend in NYC, and she’s trying toseparate me from my 501s. Not in the way that a guy wouldwant: slowly and seductively. Instead, it’s broad daylightand I’m being dragged into a trendy shop. “Yes, Levi’s areclassic, but there are brands out there that willsuit you better now,” she insists. “Yourstyle needs to grow up a bit.”

After five years together,Bettina and I have becomefriends. Could this be herway of getting back at me?She had wanted me tocommit to her in theway I had committedto my 501s. I’m fromMilan and ever since Itried on my first pair ofbootleg, buttonfly Levi’s, I’veremained faithful in a way I rarelydid with women.

Maybe she’s right. I’m almostold enough for the Italian versionof AARP and I’m still wearingworn-out jeans and T-shirts, par-ticularly sad for an Italian.

In the store, she pulls me towarda stack of ‘tarnished’ jeans (a fadedblack wash). I keep my mouth shutand do what I’m told. She says I needjeans that flatter my butt. I’m a bitinsulted: what’s wrong with my butt?

I remember buying my first pair of501s, a decision I made mostlybecause the sales associate was young

and female and gorgeous. Throughout high school anduniversity, I remained loyal to Levi’s, their comfort andcontinuity. I’ll admit it: I liked my women new and mydenim worn in.

Now, as I step out of the dressing room in these unfa-miliar jeans, I feel like a wannabe rock star. Nearby, a

handsome young French guy has tried on threepairs to my one, all perfect on him. I’m confront-

ed with an image of confidence I’m unlikelyto acquire again, certainly not in these jeans,

which are clearly all wrong.Ready for a quick exit, Bettina promis-

es she’ll continue searching for my per-fect jeans and will send them to me inItaly. A week later, I receive a packageat work. I lock myself in my office and

try them on. I scrutinize my secretary’sface while I ask for her opinion. She’s young

and hip, and I have no shame. She likes them! And,so do I. They skim my body and magically give theillusion of my old fencer’s physique: higher, rounderglutes and longer legs. I feel manly and renewed.How could I not have noticed that my 501s were nolonger doing it for me?

Soon after, Bettina flies to Milan on business and Iwear them for her. She looks at me like she did whenwe were first together. The moment is at once exhila-rating and comfortable. Hoping she feels it too, I dis-cover the extreme pleasure of jeans being unzipped.(She jokes about no more broken nails from undoingbuttons.) We’re in sync for the first time in ages and Irealize that we fit… like the jeans I’m wearing. I resolveto go with the changes and grow into the next phaseof my life. This time, she won’t have to drag me.

end

page

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We all have to grow up eventually. By Michael Giulietti

IMA

GE

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UR

TE

SY

OF

AG

AV

E

IN THE JEANS

EVER SINCE I TRIED ON MY FIRST PAIROF LEVI’S, I’VE REMAINED FAITHFUL IN AWAY I RARELY DID WITH WOMEN.

ROD_P76.ps - 8/6/2010 3:30 PM

Orlanda Olsen crafts her pieces with quality and

wearability in mind, using only the finest materials.

Her equine collection is internationally recognized

and she has many new designs each season.

Come view Orlanda’s exciting new collection. . .

exclusively at Rodes For Her.

“I think my jewelry is a blend ofEdge and Elegance. Thedifference between somethingnice and something sensationalis in the details and using thefinest materials. I like to giveeveryone something to buy andcreate jewelry that evokes anemotional response.”

WWW.ORLANDAOLSEN.COM

BEAUTY. BALANCE. LUXURY.

ROD_C3_Orlanda.pdf 1 8/11/10 5:48 PM

Canali.ps - 7/7/2010 12:01 PM

Fall 2010 Rodes Fashion Forum Magazine

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