Fabirc and Trims Parameter

8/12/2019 Fabirc and Trims Parameter

1/21


2/21

FabricDirect cost:

Cost of raw material -- 66%.

Cost of size and chemicals - 4%. Production cost comprising of running the machine,

maintenance, power fuel, humidification and otherutilities -- 8 % and

worker wages and salaries -- 8% losses incurred due to shrinkage, wastage, grading,

and also selling commissions.


3/21

FabricIndirect cost :

Interest on investment, loan, working capital,

depreciation, etc. Above 7%, overheads and administrative expenses like travelling,

telephone, couriers, legal issues, taxes comprising of7%.


4/21

Fabric Profit: 10 - 20% depending on the order size. In some

companies, 70% of the fabric cost will comprise ofdirect cost, but in corporate selling only 40% cost ofthe fabric is direct cost and 60% is overheads.


5/21


6/21

Fabric Raw material cost includes cost of fibre or yarn. The cost of the fibre will depend largely on its generic type - cotton, linen,

wool, silk, rayon, nylon, polyester, polyester cotton blend etc, and also itsquality.

The Yarn cost will depend on the count of the yarn -- finer the yarn, moreexpensive it will be.

Carded or combed: Combed yarns are more expensive than carded yarns asyarn realisation is only about 70% incase of combed yarns because short fibresare removed where as in case of carded, the yarn realisation is about 88%.Combed yarns have more lustre and strength than carded yarns. All finercounts above 40s are generally combed yarns.

Method of spinning-open-end or ring spun. Open end yarns are cheaper as thecost of manufacturing is less. It is used for coarser yarn count below 20s. The cost of man-made spun yarns will depend on the fineness -- finer the yarn,

more expensive it is. Number of fine filaments used in making the yarn willalso affect the cost

. Bright or dull -- Bright yarns are more expensive than dull. Textured yarns aremore expensive than f lat because of the additional process cost.


7/21

Amount of raw material or GSM

of the fabric Amount of raw material is reflected by the weight orGSM (grams/sq mt) of the fabric.

GSM is directly dependent on the EPI and PPI orconstruction of the fabric and is inversely proportional

to the count of the yarn. Relation between GSM andcost is a little complex. For the same variety of thefabric, as the GSM increases the cost increases

But when the yarn becomes very fine and there is avariation in picks per inch in the fabric, then the cost ofspinning and weaving plays a more important role thanthe GSM and even when the GSM is similar, the cost of

voile fabric with finer yarns and more picks per inch ismore.


8/21

Amount of raw material or GSM of

the fabricWeight of the fabric is the weight of warp and weft

which can be calculated by the formula below:

Weight of warp in grams/sq mt of fabric = EPI x 0.6 /Count of Warp = A

Weight of weft in grams/sq mt of fabric = PPI x 0.6 /Count of Weft

GSM = A+B


9/21

Sizing and Chemicals Cost The sizing cost depends upon the count of the yarns.

The count becomes finer the size and chemical costincreases as a rich solution, better quality of size andchemicals is required for better strength.

One needs to add Rs 35/kg as additional cost whichincludes steam, power or wages.

For two plied yarn no sizing is required.


10/21

Production cost or cost of weaving

process It includes machine running cost, maintenance, labour

cost, power & fuel, etc. The weaving cost is affected bythe beam size -- if the beam is small in length, the costwill be more as beam gaiting and knotting will add tothe cost


11/21

Mill-made or powerloom made:

The quality of mill-made fabrics is better than power loommade fabrics in terms of yarn quality; Therefore the cost offabric is higher. At times it can be as high as 25%..

eg, the cost of 40s Poplin 92 x 88 can vary between Rs22/mt and Rs 34/mt. It depends on the type of loom

whether powerloom, rapier, air-jet, dobby or jacquard andthe weave and construction.

The weaving cost is expressed as paisa /pick/inch/sq mt.The cost of weaving is different for different weaves.

The cost of weaving for rapier loom for plain weave 40"width fabrics = 8 paisa/pick/inch/sq nmt which means thatfor a 120 inch width fabric the cost will be 24 paisa/pick/mt.


12/21

Mill-made or powerloom made:

For twill weave, the cost = 12 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt. For satin weave, the cost = 12 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt. In case of P/V suiting, the cost ranges from 14 paisa/pick to 20 paisa/pick. For

1,000 m beam with dobby, the weaving cost is 17 paisa/pick and for 1,000 mbeam with jacquard is 20 paisa/pick.

For dobby, the cost = 12 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt. For 2400 hook jacquard the cost = 40 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt. For double beam fabrics like seer sucker, the cost is = 20 paisa/pick/inch/sq mt. There is no standardisation in dobby and jacquard fabrics. These fabrics are

produced in different textile centres like Bhiwadi, Surat, Banaras, Meerut,Panipat and the quality varies a lot.

For yarn dyed stripes and checks in handloom the efficiency is affected by thenumber of colours in the weft but mill-made stripes and checks are made onSulzer loom in which the production is not affected by the number of coloursin the warp or weft.


13/21


14/21

Dyeing costs

Cost of dyeing depends upon: Length:A minimum of 2,000 mt of fabric is accepted, if the quantity of the

fabric is more say 15,000 mt or 20,000 mt, then the processing charges will belowered by Rs 1 - 2/mt.

Width of the fabric: If the width of the fabric is doubled, the cost of theprocessing is not doubled. So it is beneficial to go for wider width fabrics ratherthan fabrics with more length. This is because the overheads and cost ofrunning the material are dependent on the length and not the width. Eg, thecost of dyeing 40" width poplin is Rs 10, but the cost of dyeing 120" width fabricis Rs 22.

Shade%:Lighter the shade lower the cost. The amount of dye required is lessas well as time required for dyeing is less. Eg, for dyeing pastel shades if it takes24 hours, it takes 36 hours for dyeing black shades and burgundy colour.

Class of dye and quality: Some dyes are more expensive than the other. Eg,Vat dyes are more expensive than reactive dyes and better expertise is requiredfor dyeing, so for the same shade the cost of a fabric with vat dyes is more thana fabric dyed in reactive dyes. The choice of dye depends on the buyer, thefastness properties and also on the shade selected.


15/21


16/21

Finishing cost Process Cost

Flame retardant finish -15Rs/mt

Antistatic finish-5 Rs/mtAnti stain-10Rs/mt

Anti wrinkle-5Rs/mt


17/21

Shrinkage and wastage

It is important to note that wastage and shrinkage areintegral part of costing. Generally a minimumshrinkage of 5 - 7% is acceptable.

Below is a detail shows approx shrinkage ofdifferent fabrics:

Poplin, Sheeting -3%

Cotton Voile, cambric -5% Polyyester/Viscose blend fiber-dyed -4.5-5%

Polyester viscose piece-dyed -6%


18/21

Costing Costing is a very complex procedure. There are set

patterns and guidelines followed by the industry. It isdifficult to find out costs for every process as there aresome inbuilt costs while costing. A larger picture hasbeen taken into account while quoting the cost.Costing depends a lot on quantity and order received.Indirect cost is about 15 - 20%. On top of the cost a

profit of 15 - 20% is added. It is not only the cost of thefinal product that matters, for exports the cost isgenerally given as FAS, FOB, CIF and LDP.


19/21

Trim


20/21

Assignment 1 Market survey of costing parameter of fabric and

trims along with costMarks 20 : (Collection of data 5, Authentication of

data 5, Documentation 10 Presentation 10 )

Document Submission date : 23/02/12.

Presentation : 1/03/12

Students can be divided maximum in group of 3.


21/21

Group 1 Group 2 Group 3 Group 4 Group 5 Group 6 Group 7

Rayon Silk Cotton Polyester Wool Linen Lycra

Georgette Moss

Crepe

Poplin Cambric Chambra

y

Voiles Twills

Canvass SeerSucker

Chiffon SingleJersey

Interlock Pique Sateen

Interlinin

g

Button Thread Hang Tag Hanger Zipper Shoulder

Pads

Lining ,Pocketing

Hookand Bar

Cartons Labels Polybag Lace MobilonTape

Fabirc and Trims Parameter

Documents