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Diary of James S. Cooper and Associates to the Klondike

The Journey begins: To Skagway

August 3, Tuesday, ‘97 Short and Pete took Skagit C at 6:30 for Seattle. Cooper came over on 4:30 P Flyer.

James S. Cooper, a 31-year-old divorcee and father of three small children, left Tacoma Washington for Seattle on August 3, 1897, on his way to the Klondike Gold Rush. After success a few years earlier in the grocery business, Cooper had done poorly, and saw the Gold Rush as a chance to make something of himself.

Cooper planned his Klondike journey with two others; Short and Pete. “Pete” is apparently Pete Fuhrman, whom Cooper mentions by full name in December 1897 entry. “Short” goes unnamed through the diary.

Wed. August 4th, 97 Went about Geo. E. Star about 1 AM, Mr. Garvin shared his stateroom with us. Our accommodations were very good. Sailed from Seattle at 5:30 AM. On board over 130 men and 82 horses. Str. Alki passed us at 10. Passed Pt. Townsend at 11 A. Alki passed us again on her way from Pt. Townsend. Today Peter was christened “Blubber Pete”.

The George E. Starr, docked in Seattle, 1894 The George E. Starr was a side-wheeler, launched in the 1880s. Put into service in 1879, it sailed in and around the Puget Sound until 1921. At the beginning of the Gold Rush, “Under Capt. E. E. Caine, the Starr was made ready to, and did in fact depart for Skagway and Dyea on August 3, 1897 with 90 passengers and a cargo of 100 horses.” [according to Wikipedia] That was Cooper’s journey. The ship was elegant enough that President Rutherford B. Hayes once spent a night in one of its staterooms. Cooper notes “our accommodations were very good” but that was not typical of the steamer runs that many Klondikers took. Conditions on other ships were reported to be awful.


Aug 5th Thursday Arrived at Union Bay, Vancouver Island at 9:30 AM and proceeded to coal up. Found the Steamer Rapid transit here, coaling also. Went ashore, sent mail East and purchased more stores. Garvin secured hay for horses. Left dock at 7:30 PM. Weather delightful, some went in swimming.

Post card to James Whitfield, Maplewood, New Jersey, August 5, 1897, mailed Union Bay, Vancouver Island Dear Jim, I am on my way to the Klondike with two others. We have a year’s supply and a complete trail & mining outfit, we have a country to get over, the Pass, and have ten weeks journey. Well Good By old man, I may strike it. Remember me to your people. Write care of C. H. Grinnell, Tacoma Yours, J. S. Cooper

Aug 6 Friday Left anchorage in Mudge Bay 7 AM. Passed Str. Rapid Transit 8:15 AM. Mudge Pt. 10:30 AM. Strong tide through Seymour Narrows, saw first whale at 4:30, tail 10 feet wide, spouted 3 times then called on McGinty. 5:15 PM strong head wind against tide, very choppy sea. The Str. R.T. loaded with 108 horses and many tons feed is astern of us. Anchored in Johnston Sts. for night. Too dangerous to try to pass in dark. Great discontent has been manifest for 2 days on account of slow progress.

This whale was probably a humpback, common along the Inside Passage and northern Pacific.

Aug 7 Saturday Laid at anchorage owing to fog. Quartermaster took half breed and 2 others, went ashore for deer. At 9:30 weighed anchor and started North. Shortie and Pete don their new sweaters. Arrived at Alert Bay B.C. at 1 o’clock, took water, left 3:15 PM, visited cannery. 5 PM arrived Queen Charlotte Sound, cast anchor off Fort Ruppert 7 PM, (old Hudson Bay Post), all hands went ashore, went hunting up beach, got twelve birds. In evening about 50 of us called at the Hunt homestead where we spent a pleasant evening, music, etc. The three Hunt sisters are pretty and cultivated, they are half breeds.

Properly spelled Fort Rupert. Cooper reports tourist-like experiences and what seems to be an enjoyable journey underway.

Sunday Aug 8 Heavy fog from daylight to 10:15 AM, weighed anchor 11 AM. 1:45 PM put back for harbor on account of heavy fog on Q.C. Sound, dropped anchor in Port Alexander, a very pretty little harbor, a beauty, about 1 mile long by 1 ½ wide, with a little island right at mouth of harbor, over 100 ft. water in center. At 9 PM looks stormy.

Aug 9th Monday Weighed anchor at 4:30 AM and started for Q.S. Sound, passed Storm Islands 6 AM, water smooth, very light wind; passed Str. Islander 7:40 AM. Passed Egg Island at 8:45 AM, are making about 8 miles an hour. Entered Fitz Hugh Sound 9:15 AM. Ran through


a school of blackfish, at 11:30 sighted str. in distance bound South, 12:10 noon passed Str. Rosalie bound South. Passed Str. Topeka bound South about 1 PM. Entered Laura Passage 5: passed Br. Str. Tees at 6:30 PM, bound South. Arrived Bella Bella 6:50, to water and tied up for night. Br. Str. Princess Louise stopped at Bella Bella at 7:30 loaded with B. C. Siwash and Alaskan Indians returning home after season’s work at some salmon canneries. But one white man visible at Bella Bella, British P.M.

Aug 10th Tuesday Weighed anchor at 4 AM. Slight swell on Milbank Sound 7 AM. Horses on the Rapid Transit in bad shape, especially those below decks. 11:30 AM tied up to bank to take water from waterfalls. Some go fishing. Start up about 2:30 PM. Passed a number of fine waterfalls. Raining and misty all day. At 7:30 PM go through Graham Straits. Expect to keep on course all night.

Pierre Berton, in The Klondike Fever (1958) reports similar poor conditions for men and especially horses on the Willamette: “The ship carried 800 men, women, and children, three hundred horses, and so much hay that the bales had to be stacked on deck. … The food was sickening, the surroundings filthy… the passengers were quartered under the rough plank decks upon which the horses were tethered, and the excretions of these animals leaked through the cracks in the boards onto the sleeping men.”

Aug 11th Wed Tried to anchor at 2:30 AM, no bottom for the hook, slowed up through fog from 2:30 to 4 AM. “Ancient Mariner” ate a hearty breakfast. Passed mouth of Skena River at 11:30 AM are going through Chatam Sound, passed Duncan Island 11:45, passed Port Simpson 1 PM. Entered Revellegageda Channel 6 PM. Foggy and some rain all day but fog did not settle down on water. Str. Rapid Transit about 12 miles ahead at 7 PM.

Aug 12th Thursday Cleared U.S. Customs and weighed anchor 4 AM. While at Mary’s Island heard of the wreck of Str. Mexico, she ran on a reef in the outside passage at Dixon’s Cut and sank in 70 fathoms of water, all passengers and crew saved in small boats. They pulled to Mary’s Island but being no accommodations pulled on over to an Indian village called Methalithaika where they will have to stay until taken off. The wreck occurred on Monday Aug 9th. Passengers on Str. Mexico were chiefly composed on the C. Es. Misty and rainy this AM. Stopped at Ketchikan, a cannery station for water at 8 AM, purchased oarlocks and mouth organ and some fruit. Started northwest on Tungas Narrows at 9:30 AM. The revenue officer that boarded us at Mary’s Island, just down from Skagway reports – pack horses worth $200.00 per head and 28¢ a lb for packing over trail. Also that a man was lynched for stealing. Passed little salmon Str. Arctic bound South at 9:30 AM. Passed through Clarence Sts. by Sumner Sts. 5:30 PM. Anchored at 11:30 PM.

The Steamer Mexico wreck made news in the East, from the New York Times: “STEAMER MEXICO WRECKED.; Runs on a Beef at Dixon Entrance in a Fog -- All on Board Saved.” August 12, 1897. It ran aground on August 5, at 4:30 AM. It struck West Devil’s Rock, and two hours later, sank. It cannot be determined what the “composed on the C. Es.” refers to. This may be a mis-transcription of what appears in the handwritten diary. Cooper and his colleagues begin to get first or second hand information about conditions on the Klondike trail, and how things work. Cooper’s merchant instincts have him focused especially on the costs of things.


Aug 13 Friday Weighed anchor at 5:30, passed through Wrangel Narrows, 20 miles long, by far the worst water we have struck so far. Had to wait for high water to get thru and then at one time we steamed or a full hour to pass a buoy. Passed Fort Wrangel last night 11 PM. Saw first glacier at 10 AM. Killed two sheep this AM, scout did it. At 12:30 noon Str. Alki passed us South bound. Rainy all day, some floating ice. Some of the passengers have been nicknamed as follows, “Blubber Pete”, “Ryder Haggard”, “Ancient Mariner”, “Profanity” etc. Last night we had music in the cabin. 3:30 PM are passing Midway Island in Stephen Passage. At 4:30 PM a meeting was held in the Dining Hall to devise means to facilitate the unloading of freight. Mr. Fairchild elected chairman. Mr. Davis, customs officer addressed meeting and gave some important pointers concerning present conditions at Skagway. A committee of five appointed and meeting adjourned until after supper when plans for unloading are to be adopted and sub-committees named and commander in chief elected. 8 PM meeting held as before mentioned, necessary rules adopted and committees appointed. Mr. Slinger of Watcom, Wis. elected commander in chief. Very interesting meeting, all matters thoroughly discussed and acted upon connected with the unloading of frt. Adjourned about 9 PM. Considerable floating ice in these waters of a peculiar bluish tint. Glaciers are plentiful. Expect to continue on course all night, hope to make Skagway by tomorrow PM and to beat the Willamette in. Customs Officer Davis warns all hands not to try to smuggle whisky under heavy penalty.

We might assume that the nicknames refer to Cooper and his colleagues, and that Blubber Pete is Pete Fuhrman, Cooper’s Klondike partner. Perhaps Ryder Haggard is Short, and Ancient Mariner is Cooper, earlier, Cooper refers to the Ancient Mariner in a way that suggests it’s his nickname. The name Ryder Haggard comes from Henry Rider Haggard, British writer of “light” adventure novels, 1856-1925. The Ancient Mariner from Coleridge’s epic poem Rime of the Ancient Mariner. The passengers must have gotten good advice from the customs officer or others about planning their landing at Skagway. This shows in their formation of plans for unloading their freight. They create a highly democratic system—self rule—which historians report as the norm, at least for the first wave of prospectors in the Klondike.


Arriving in Skagway, readying to journey to the Klondike

Aug 14 Saturday At 7 AM we are in Lynn Canal 55 miles from Skagway. Strong head wind this morning, clear weather, expect to make Skagway this PM sure. All hands busy packaging and marking their effects. 10:45 AM still in Lynn Canal about 40 miles from Skagway. Are now passing Knowles Min which is about three miles up the foothills, it is supposed to be the richest quartz in Alaska, operated by 5 or 6 companies employing about 600 men. Their nearest port is Stewart City, a small place right on Lynn Canal. 2 PM grand weather, scenery positively the grandest yet. J.S.C. took 8 views on Lynn Canal. Are within 10 miles of Skagway. 3 PM meeting called in Dining Hall, final arrangements made and details appointed. Enter Skagway Bay at 3:15 PM. At meeting resolution of thanks to officers and crew voted, same to be published in Puget Sound papers. 5 PM arrived at Skagway. The Willamette reached here yesterday. Beach covered with tents, excitement here beggars description. The Str. Willamette has 1203 passengers on board, a few of them are women, and several hundred horses. All hands on the Starr work all night unloading horses.

The Steamer Willamette, which jostled for position into port with the Geo. E. Starr, Cooper’s ship, to reach Skagway, August, 1897. Image: Library of Congress, via: http://popartmachine.com/item/pop_art/LOC+1111608 Pierre Berton in his Klondike book writes at length about the horrible conditions on the Willamette. His own ship. The George E. Star, seems not to have been as overloaded or poorly operated as the Willamette.

Aug 15 1897, Sunday Weather fine. All but nine head horses unloaded last night, bal. this AM. Worked up to 4 PM inloading frt. Our organization did good work, our frt. All revd. and in good condition. Much confusion on the Willamette. Move our frt. and outfit from the flats up to the town and camp near Garvin and McCutcheon’s camps. Are comfortably settled for a couple of days. Supplies in camp are – tea, bacon, spuds and hardtack. Garvin was offered $1,000.00 to pack 1,000 # over trail.

Cooper is aware of the problems for the Willamette, and notes the success of the Geo. E. Starr’s landing. It was Garvin who Cooper noted shared his stateroom on the Geo. E. Starr. The offer to Garvin surely reflects his command of good horses for packing supplies over the trail.

Aug 16, Monday Skagway a genuine mushroom mining town and a corker. Tents and packhorses in every direction. Garvin has located a lot. Last night a religious meeting held outdoors, singing and "experiences." A saloon tent opposite meeting, a dance every night at the dance house. A continuous string of outfits going up trail. Town part in light timber and part in clearing, great mountains on both sides; 28 feet of tide here. Fine cold spring water in plenty, meals in tent restaurants "4 bits," a number of stores in tents. Freight rates over pass very high, from 25 CENTS to $1.00 per cwt. The trail reported to be almost impassable, a number of accidents to horse and man. Many turning back much discouraged and closing out their outfits very cheap. Horses selling from $125 to $200. Many of the Klondykers are armed to the teeth,

Muddy street scene with Klondikers and tents along Broadway, Skagway, Alaska, August 12, 1897 Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu/u?/laroche,250 Cooper notes problems on the White Pass trail, which is said to be “almost impassable”. This gibes with reports of

http://popartmachine.com/item/pop_art/LOC+1111608

http://content.lib.washington.edu/u?/laroche,250


town very orderly, have seen no one under the influence of liquor so far. Good boats can be had for $5.00 and many lying around deserted as it is claimed that it is impossible to pack them over trail.

“blockades” and of the corpses of dead horses regularly blocking the trail.


Up the trail

Aug. 17 Tues. Started early up trail, took about one half of our outfit about 4 miles. Pitched tent. Cooper stayed. Bal. returned to Skagway.

Exactly one year previously, George Carmack staked his claim at Bonanza Creek, and his boasting created a stampede and a new Gold Rush.

Aug. 18 Wed. Short and Pete go up trail to work on it, about 200 men out. Bridge closed, no pack horses allowed over until trail is fixed, by order of committee. Two more steamers in today. Houses going up all over. J.S.C. returned to 4 mile camp.

That Cooper and his partners got such a quick start up the trail is a testament to their actually being reasonably well outfitted for the journey, and for their early arrival in Skagway. It may also reflect that they started with enough good horses. Within just a week or two, arriving Klondikers’ chances of making it to Dawson by Winter would dwindle.

Aug. 19 Thurs. Pack train of 10 horses and 84 men start for Lake Bennett over the Famous Skagway Trail to the Klondike. By the time we struck “old Pork-ku-pine” hill all hands are simply paralyzed at the exceeding toughness of the trail. No time now for many diary notes, stuck it out all day, camped in low land near river, rain all night, no tent, “Ell-of-a-time”.

Hungry Man's Retreat restaurant at Porcupine Creek, White Pass Trail, Alaska, 1897 Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu

Aug. 20 Friday Started up early in AM, camped on Summit Lake, very cold; tough.

The first person to transcribe the handwritten diary made out “Summit Lake” as “Sunnicut” but no such location seems to have existed, and Summit Lake is a reasonable place to make camp at this point in Cooper’s journey.

Aug 21 Sat. Reached the grassland, lost blue mare in bog, camped 1 mile beyond Shallo Lake.

Klondikers and supplies on the summit of White Pass, Alaska, 1898. Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu/heggweb/index.html

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Aug 22 Sun. Pushed on by Lake Linderman to portage between Linderman and Bennett. 3 men, 8 horses return to grassland same night, bal follow all but Short, in a day or two to 4 mile camp.

Lake Bennett, British Columbia, 1897 Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu/u?/laroche,84

Aug 23, 24, 25, 26 Outfit and pack train and men returning to 4 mile camp.

Aug 27 Fri. Trail closed again for two days, in a terrible condition. Some hard sights on the trail, very dangerous, many horses killed. J.S.C. went down to Skagway. Town grown beyond recognition in our absence. Many ships have arrived bringing hundreds of men and horses to make this horrible trail still worse.

Dead horses, victims of the rush to cross White Pass, Alaska-British Columbia, during the summer of 1897 Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu

Aug 28 Sat. Skagway building up fast. Many stores, saloons and buildings going up on all sides.

Skagway’s boom had been continuing, and its poor conditions and lawlessness had worsened. A New York Times reporter on August 21, 1897 had noted: “The more one knows of this place, the better he likes any other place.”

Aug 29 Sun. Our Geo McCutcheon shakes this trail for the Dyea trail, others are going likewise. While at Bennett Lake we found more getting over the Divide by Dyea than Skagway Trail. Seely Bros. have gone that way. Can get no mail.

Aug 30 Mon. On returning from the lake the boys lost another horse, thus leaving 8 in our train, another was purchased and trail being open we start with nine



head and make first bridge, camp there.

Aug 31 Tues. Pete stays at first bridge camp, Short still at Lake Bennett and J.S.C. returning to 4 mile camp. Each camp has about ¾ ton of the outfit. Pack train returns from first bridge camp to 4 mile camp.

It’s not clear if the whole group’s outfit totals 1.5 tons, or if that was Cooper and partners’ share of the full 10-horse pack train. Canadian authorities would soon require each man to have a year’s provisions, about 1 ton of supplies.

Sept 1 Wed. Break camp at 3 AM with bal. of outfit and start for first bridge camp, trail very heavy and crowded, have hard luck and get in many blockades. By far the hardest day on trail. Reach 1st bridge camp two and one half hours after dark. Very lucky to get in with all our horses and packs. Camp for night. Mud 4 ft. deep, no tent, roughest night on trail.

Blockade of Klondikers on Porcupine Hill, White Pass Trail, Alaska, ca. 1898 Image: http://www.lib.washington.edu

Sept 2 Thu. J.S.C stays in 1st bridge camp. Pack train start to try to make cache of 1500# on Summit and return to camp for night. J.S.C. gets some views of camp and outfit with camera. Short still at Lake Bennett. Pack trap setd. at dark. J.S.C. loses overcoat, 150 rounds ammunition and medicine ch

The losses noted here could readily be from theft. The trail had gotten worse and more desperate men were turning to stealing.

Sept 3 Fri. Train stayed in until 11 AM to shoe up stock. Broke camp and started for cache. Still raining, has rained every day on trail and snow on the summit. Reached cache ½ mile from ford at dark in rain, could not find place for tent, all hands spent miserable night, cold and wet. The third hill was almost impassable, indeed I hardly see how we got the horses over. Pete took the cut-off up river and packed the saw. We cannot stand much more of such hardship, many horses dead.

Klondike stampeders on the trail. 1897 Image: http://www.lib.washington.edu

Sept 4 Sat. Reached first meadow, crossed ford and Summit Lake successfully, camped. Horses worn out and shoes off. Passed woman on Summit Lake whose husband died on Poekupine hill. Pete goes to

Again the original transcriber typed “Sunnicut” for Summit Lake here.

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Skagway for horse shoes and nails.

Sept 5 Sun. Stayed in camp and rested man and beast.

Sept 6 Mon. Train goes back for bal. of cache at ford, return at night.

Sept 7 Tues. Make two trips from 1st meadow and got entire outfit to big meadow, make late camp, have a horse stolen. Pete reaches camp at night with nails and shoes for horses and mail, J.S.C.’s first word from home since leaving Tacoma. J.S.C. gets seven letters. Ed Williams comes in to take charge of train. Duncan returns to Skagway, turns over command to Williams and goes to Skagway to hunt up stolen horse.

Sept 8 Wed. Train start to make cache at end of Shallow lake in charge of Ed. Williams. Pete and Cooper stay in camp and bake bread. Blowing and very cold, snow creeping down on the mts. J.S.C. caught some views. Train in 7 PM.

Despite their hardships, Cooper is still taking photographs.

Sept 9 Thu. Williams gets Billy and J.S.C. out at 1:50 AM by mistake, blowing and very cloudy. J.S.C. gets breakfast, all out 5 AM and start up trail. Very boggy, horses weak, camp at dark about 25 miles beyond Shallow Lake. Williams eye in bad shape. J.S.C. goes down to Bennett.

Sept 10 Fri. About noon train gets in. J.S.C. goes back with it. Camp again 2 miles from Shallow. Three horses about ended. Rain and snow, bad night. Killed one horse.

Sept 11 Sat. Leave Williams in camp, snow again in AM, take 7 head, get to the Lake with 6 about noon, had to leave 150” cached. Charlie goes back after it with the mules, gets in 4 PM. All stuff now at Lake Bennett. Billy and Charlie return with mules and horses, they expect to make Skagway with about 4 head, and take Ed Williams in with them. A Dr. said he would lose one eye. J.S.C. splits up with Short and Pete, divide goods, S and P get rifle, tent, whip and cross-cut saws, sled stove, and 2/3 grub and 2/3 tools. J.S.C. gets 1/3 grub, boat canvas and 1/3 tools. J.S.C. advances $35.00 to Pete. We are now entirely separate outfits.

Though it seems a big change to split up with his original partners, Cooper seems to stay on friendly terms with them. He loans Pete money, as well. On getting to the Klondike, Short and Pete go work a gold prospecting right away. Perhaps Cooper had decided to try to make his way as a merchant or in some other way, and they did not want to do that. Their part of the outfit would seem to be more suited to prospecting and exploration, though with a 2/3 1/3 split, it may have been inevitable that they would take the saw, rifle, and so on.

Sept 12 Sun. Pete and Short arrange to go down on log scow with

For all the hell described about the White Pass / Dead Horse trail, Cooper and his comrades make several runs to and from Skagway and up and back from caches along the


1400 gallons whiskey. J.S.C. makes deal with Harry Davis to go down together. Davis went down to Skagway yesterday to get a few necessary articles and his clothing and blankets. J.S.C. gives him an order and receipt on Garvin for $250.00 Expect him at Bennett on the 17th.

way. They must have very much avoided the extreme problems that some of the other Klondikers had on this trail. Note that Cooper still has the means to spend or borrow money. Garvin may have extended him credit.

Sept 13 Mon. J.S.C. in camp at Bennett. Slinger of Whatcom camped next door. Lots of boats going down.

Sept 14 Tue. Slinger kills a bull, everybody has fresh meat. “out of sight”. Met Anderson and Harvey of N.Y. City. They want us to go with them and buy The World’s man’s boat for $300.00 They claimed to be engaged at the Dawson City Opera House at $35.00 per night. Guitar and Mandolin players.

Sept 15 Wed. Adams bros. came in and camped next to us. Slinger, Jas. Adams and J.S.C. eat together while at Lake. Live pretty good. J.S.C. meets with a number of KPs at Bennett. Gets some good views. Make a deal with Holmes to buy his outfit for $250.00. 400# grubmining tools, cook utensils, tent and stove.

Over-burdened Klondikers and those decided to give up sold or abandoned their goods. “Goods of every description are to be had here as cheaply as where they were bought…. Every man who has given up the idea of going further starts a little store in his tent and hopes to get a good price for his wares from the later arrivals.” New York Times, August 21, 1897 Cooper continues to be able to buy goods and this entire outfit, presumably for cash.

Sept 16 Thu. Got 4 more views. Still waiting for Davis to show up; have had some good chances to go down the lakes. 8 PM have a good chance to go down the lake if Davis gets back by 3 PM tomorrow, in Anderson’s boat, can take 1300# and 2 of us for $100.00. Anderson was down last year and understands these waters; he has 4 men with him, his boat is 31 feet long, plenty of room and thoroughly well built. About 12 boats went down today.

Boat navigating the rapids on One Mile River between Linderman Lake and Lake Bennett, British Columbia, 1897 Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu



Sept 17 Fri. N.Y. Hebrew has adventure with his floating coffin on Lake, is capsized, loses his outfit of 150#, came near drowning, a boat puts off and pulls him out. About noon Davis shows up by the Dyea trail with pack of 75#, has hard trip, get $100 from Garvin. J.S.C. closes deal with Holmes by paying extra fine for his time, buys his entire outfit of 400# grub, stove tent, cooking outfit, 45-70 Winchester, 90 rounds reloading outfit, mining tools etc. for $280.00.

Klondikers in flat bottomed boat on Lindeman Lake, British Columbia, 1897 Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu

Sept 18 Sat. Make deal with Reynolds and Evans of Chicago to go down in their boat for $120, 30 ft. boat, 6 men and outfits.

Sept 19 Sun. Get Mann to cash order on Garvin for $150. For $135., also buy medicine chest of his for $5. Pay Reynolds $30. on account for passage.

Sept 20 Mon. Rainy and some snow. Boat leaks, can’t leave until tomorrow, have to pitch some places in boat. Just heard that the ex-mayor of Victoria was drowned at Shallow Lake.

Sept 21 Tues. Cold and snow, may not get away today. Dr. Pratt expects to leave today. Adams Bros. in about 5 days. Mr. Slinger goes back over trail to look up his outfit and lost bull and horses; in hard luck. James’ outfit expect to leave soon. Can learn nothing of Seeley Bros. or Geo. McCutcheon. Can’t leave today, boat not ready.

Sept 22 Wed. Started with Reynolds outfit, boat sprang a leak, beached her, too much of a load, so cancel contract and arrange to go down with Messrs. Ochs and Walker at same rate tomorrow. Camp on beach ¼ mile below old camp.

Sept 23 Thu. Left Lake Bennett at 8:45 AM. Heavy South wind, cross Bennett by 4:30 PM, 28 miles long, heavy sea but boat stiff and ship but little water. Heavy South-East squall carried away masthead, rig up small sq. sail and scud along lively. The boat Belle of the Yukon

Some sources found via Google say that Jack London, age 20, arrived in Skagway August 8, 1897, and with some others built the Belle of the Yukon and another boat, Yukon Belle for their transport to the gold fields. There are conflicting accounts about whether London got to Dawson by Winter.



passed us under heavy sail but shortly carried away her main sail and we overtake her. The officers of the ship “Mary” are as follows – Capt. Ochs, Quartermaster Walker, Steward Davis, Pilot Cooper. 3 boats ahead and 3 astern, at 6:30 PM we go ashore and camp about 2 miles below Bennett near Caviban Crossing. J.S.C. took views of first river below Bennett. The Capt. In absence of the Stewards rubber boots attempted to carry him ashore, got bogged and both were soaked. Yesterday our first day’s sail on this 600 mile trip was very satisfactory. We proved we had a good boat, 21 ft. keel 23 ft. overall, 4 ft. bottom, 7 ft. beam; sq. sail 7 x 12 also a good crew but inexperienced at river work.

Sept 24 Fri. A new mast is secured giving us more area of canvas. Fine weather and fair Southerly breeze, a few ducks but no time to secure any. Get under way at 8 AM. Our camp last night named Camp Ochs. 10 AM off Big Windy on Lake Tagish, very rough; 11 AM Little Windy, blowing hard. Reached British Customs at head of 6 Mile River. Paid customs, Davis and Cooper -- $40. Ochs and Walker -- $33. The Police had a man who shot his partner and killed him. They had him in chains and said he will be tried in Dawson. Passed 7 houses about 4 miles below, and Indian village, first houses for many miles. Went ashore on West bank and got firewood to cook supper aboard; expect to camp 9 miles below. Had dinner aboard and made good time. While getting wood ashore J.S.C. shot an eagle with which he decorated bow. Passed a wrecked boat this AM. 3 men were drowned on Big Windy about a week ago. See many ducks and geese. Sailed until 8:30 PM one hour after dark, Camped on Marsh Lake, about 10 miles at Camp Eagle.

Sept 25 Sat. Got underway at 5 AM, b’fast aboard, get most meals on ship now. Fine strong South wind, make good time, enter 50 Mile River at 9:34 AM in company of 7 boats. Meet Dr. Pratt who is fishing and reports; 1 pickerel, 1 goose and two ducks. J.S.C. tries a couple of shots at long range and misses. Can not sail in river, fairly strong current which carries us along lively working two oars. Camped about 5 miles above Miles Canyon.

Sept 26 Sun. Got underway about 8 AM, cold and heavy snowstorm, blowing hard from the north. Passed another wrecked boat, also Indian canoe, the first going up against current. Current quite strong; at 11:45 we are hailed from shore to pull in. Pull in by hard pulling we managed to make shore a few


hundred feet above the Famous Miles Canyon. After sizing up the situation we paid a man $15.00 to take our boat and outfit through Canyon. Davis and Ochs take the oars and the man the helm. Make it OK but it is a terror. We portaged about 250# to lighten boat. J.S.C. gets a couple of views. About 1 PM we start again and go with a swift current about 1 and ½ miles when we see a red flag on the left bank, meaning that we are approaching the White Horse Rapids. We pull in sharp. Capt. jumps ashore with rope but misses and is carried quite a ways down stream by current. By our combined efforts and the Capt’s pluck in holding line we make a landing. Dr. Pratt’s part pulled in shortly after us. Camp.

Sept 27 Mon. Stayed in camp until 11:40 AM, then shot the famous White Horse Rapids. Arthur Harris took out boat thru with Ochs and Cooper at oars. Harris is from Ovillia Ont., bro-in-law, Jacob Gandaur, Champion Oarsman of the World. The rapids have a great history and many a man has ended his existence trying to shoot them. Portaged about 500#, got dinner ashore and started down stream about 3 PM. Had a close call on a rift immediately below the White Horse, struck rocks but managed to pole out to deep water. Shot a goose and duck and camped 10 miles down on 50 Mile. Steward Davis goes gunning, discovers a beautiful lake, 500 x 100 yards, about ½ East of River. We name it Lake Davis, and the camp, Camp Goose. Davis comes in at dusk with a couple of ducks and reports more shot on Lake Davis but will have to have a fellow with high top boots to get them. Cooper returns to Lake with Davis, we get two more ducks. Cooper gets badly bogged and has fisherman’s luck. Dined at 8 PM on goose and duck stew. Blowing hard from North and cold. Lots of Camp Loafer around camp. (An Alaskan bird that hangs around camps for “handouts”).

Boat navigating the Whitehorse Rapids on the Yukon River, ca. 1898 Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu

Sept. 28 Tues. Make up a mess box after breakfast, hereafter all cook as one outfit. Got underway about 9:30 AM, very cold and blowing hard from the North. Are trying hard to get by Lake LaBarge before it freezes over as that means either hauling our grub and outfit about 400 miles on sleds that we would have to build with a very poor outfit of tools, or stopping here for 8 months and do nothing but devour our provisions and live in a log cabin that we would build. If wind will let up from the North we hope to cross lake in two days and then the current down the Lewis and Yukon Rivers will keep the ice from closing them up until later, giving us a chance to make Dawson in about 8 or 10 days. So cold had to go ashore to warm



up and get dinner, we saw bear tracks near shore. Started down on 50 Mile about 2 PM. About 4 PM we are hailed from West Bank about 1 mile from us by 3 men. We pull over, they prove to be 2 Indians who want us to ferry them over the East Bank, which we do. They say there is an Indian village about 2 and ½ miles in the interior. All hands about frozen and anxious to camp. See a little belt of timber on West Bank and pull for it but run aground. Pole off and run down two miles further on to Lake LaBarge, (Passed Takeena River on right bank), where we find 25 boats tied up and about 100 men waiting for the high North winds to let up and heavy sea to settle down. We camp in the village of tents. Just before landing run into a bunch of ducks. Davis gets 2 at one shot. Pitch both tents and proposed to get warm and dry while we have a good chance.

Sep 29 Wed. We are still camped on lake LaBarge, all hoping for more favorable weather. Going to have fried ducks for dinner. Many go shooting. Gunner Davis is going after “Bar” this PM. Comes off stormy. Davis loses his way and comes near having a serious time getting back to camp. Finally shows up after 3 hours. Blowing hard from North and snowing.

Sept 30 Thu. Still blowing from North and snowing. A bunch of N.W. Police arrive in camp, 4 boats. A few boats pull up the lake.

The Northwest Police are the precursors to the Mounties.

Oct 1 Fri. Snowed hard all day, no chance to get away, very cold at night. Went hunting, no luck. Camp named Camp Detention.

Oct 2 Sat. Wind very light, decide to start, break camp about 9 AM. Considerable ice but not thick at South end of lake, wind increases, pull hard all day, make about 17 miles, follow left bank. Passed Indian trading post at 10:30 AM on left bank. Cold all day, have disagreeable time of it. Camp at dark. Have to unload boat owing to heavy wind and pull up on beach.

Oct 3 Sun. Loaded boat and break camp at 8:45 AM. Heavy North wind and snow, we suffer considerably in boat. About 11 AM to ashore and build big camp fire to warm up by, other boats join us. About 1 PM wind lets up and we pull out, make a couple of miles when the much dreaded North wind again faces us, we stand it until men and boat are covered with ice and worn out with hard pulling, then go ashore about 4:30 and camp with 5 other boats. Passed two men


going South, returning from mines. Did not speak to them.

Oct 4 Mon. Broke camp and started up again facing a strong North wind about 8 AM. Pulled hard until 11 AM, only made three miles, at times could hardly keep boat even with land. At 11 AM went ashore, bailed out boat, got dinner and started up at 12:15, wind having let up and suddenly let up altogether, a dead calm. On the strength of that we pull to the center of the lake about 2 and one half miles from either shore and make good headway. About 2:45 a rustling is heard astern which gradually increases to a good stiff South wind, we set sail and let out a few triumphant shouts to a few boats that hug the shore and let her rip, but inside of five minutes the wind turns into a howling gale and we have a very serious proposition on our hands and come very near going to the bottom. By the hardest kind of work we take in sail and keep our boat before the wind for three hours, going at the rate of 10 miles an hour. We have the whole lake to ourselves, all other boats having sought shelter. It could not have been rougher and left us on the top of the lake. At one time our mast was almost out of the boat. On nearing end of lake we search in vain for the river outlet and finally decide to beach her and save ourselves if possible, a terrible surf was running but as we near the beach a boat crew ashore run out and by shouting and signs make us aware that if we can keep off a few minutes longer the river is just a ¼ mile ahead. We make it and shoot by the reef but it is a close call. All hands very thankful. Almost dark. Stop on right bank and start to clear away snow for camp when we are startled by finding the place we picked to pitch our tent is the comparatively new grave of some poor fellow who had been drowned there. We push on further into the timber and camp.

Oct 5 Tues. Start down river with a 6 mile current at 8 AM. Passed another grave further down on the left bank. Named last camp “Dead Man’s Camp”. The first 30 miles rather bad, some rocks, sharp turns and bars, have some close calls, strike one rock hard but do not spring a leak. Make fine time, don’t stop for dinner, pass many ducks. About 2 PM pass 3 deserted cabins on left bank. Camp at 3 PM on right bank in canyon. At this writing don’t know if we are on the Hootalinqua River or not. Several miles back it looked as though another River came in but at the time we were behind large island and could not see for timber, water changed from clear blue to muddy. We think we have made fully 50 miles today. Camp


named “Camp Canyon”. Changed from single to double messes today. Pass Indians on West bank with raft.

Oct 6 Wed. Got underway at 7:45 AM Camp Canyon was fine, pitched our tents within 6 ft of river. Passed another grave on right bank. At 8:30 pass Cassear Bar. At 9 the junction of the Big Salmon and the -------, are hailed from left bank by band of Chilkoot Indians who want to trade. J.S.C. got two good views, traded for mt. goat meat, martin skin and jerked caribou. Indians very foxy on trade. Proceeded down river, fine timber, snowed a little then cleared up, chilly but fine, strong current, fully 6 miles. See no boats since starting this AM. At 11 AM run hard aground right in middle of river, very shallow for some distance, all hands get overboard and work like Trojans for 20 minutes and save the ship. Get dinner aboard, go ashore at 2:30 for firewood. Continue down river, perfect day, go ashore on left bank at 4:30 PM and camp. Have mt. sheep for supper, positively the finest meat I ever tasted, got it from the Indians on the Big Salmon River. Beautiful moonlight night, expect to make Five Finger Rapids by tomorrow night.

Oct 7 Thu. Got underway at 7:45, Struck Little Salmon River about 9 AM. Indian village on left bank, tie up and trade with them. J.S.C. gets a couple of views, Davis and Cooper trade tobacco for moosemeat. Walker trades for fur hood and Caribou skin. They are a miserable lot, they have a great quantity of furs, hides and bear grease. Ran hard aground on reef but get off after some hard work. Passed 3 cabins on left bank. Considerable flow ice in both Big and Little Salmon Rivers. Camp on left bank about 20 miles above Five Fingers Rapids. Dine on goat meat again for supper, “out of sight”; misty and cold all day.

Oct 8 Fri. Start off at 7:30 AM, passed 3 more deserted cabins on left bank; clear and cold. Strong current. About 10 AM passed a drift mine for coal on right bank. Went ashore on left bank 1 and ½ miles above Finger Rapids for dinner, 2 other boats there. Very strong current, many bad bars. Start for the Five Fingers at 1 PM and shoot them OK, keep the right channel. J.S.C. gets a shot. About three miles below on left bank we see 4 men who have just butchered about 20 head of cattle, they came over the Dalton trail and are freezing them to take into the mines. At 2 PM we shoot the Rink Rapids successfully. About 4 miles below the Rink we see a chalk deposit on right bank, stop and get samples. Camped 15 miles below Five


Fingers, on left bank.

Oct 9 Sat. Underway at 7:45 AM, stiff Southerly wind, get up sail and make great headway, dangerous, many bars, rains some. Stop for dinner 3 miles above Fort Selkirk. Strike Pelly River and Ft. Selkirk at 2 PM. Are now on the Yukon. Post Keeper at Selkirk has a register of those who have gone down to Dawson, it shows to date 2505 and a liberal allowance for those not registered would make the number 3500. A Klondyker we meet at the store reports no steamers up the Yukon since the report of the strike, and staple grub scarce; plenty of work at $15. per day. A number of cabins here. Some Indians. It is an old Hudson Bay Post of 45 years ago. Church of England Mission here but no missionary. No steamer been here for 2 years. Met “Swift Water Bill” who has struck it rich to the tune of $200,000. Mr. Pitt the Post Trader and only local white resident gave us considerable information. J.S.C. writes to Mrs. T.E.C., Capt. S. J.M.W. and C.H.G. and sends in the letters with Swift Water Bill's party. Grub at Dawson reported very scarce, no staples to be had at any price. The river here very bad, full of bars. We camp in a cabin near traders store, eat in boat and bring up blankets only. In one end of cabin is a ghastly huge pile of beef heads, just slaughtered. Ochs and Walker take freight from here to Dawson of about 300# of beef.

The post trader was J.J. Pitts (not Pitt) tending store where Arthur Harper had for some time in the previous decade. Pierre Berton, in The Klondike Fever, p. 172 describes the situation at Fort Selkirk in the Fall of 1897 quite similarly. Swift Water Bill was W. C. Gates. He was also known as “the Knight of the Golden Omelet”. According to a Klondyker letter from about a year later, “Swift Water Bill earned his name, not by riding through the Rapids, but by walking around them. Swift Water Bill is now at Dawson, ‘dead broke.’” http://archiver.rootsweb.ancestry.com/th/read/NORCAL/2003-03/1046904125 But in fact, Swift Water Bill continued to do well. A New York Times piece from June 11, 1906 reports his $1,000,000 in gold dust. Mrs. T.E.C. must be Mrs. Thomas Edward Cooper, his mother. J.M.W. is his friend James Whitfield. The Letter was brief: Letter to James Whitfield, Maplewood, New Jersey, October 9, 1897, mailed at Fort Selkirk, N.W. Ty., Canada Dear Jimmy, Still going. Hope to make Dawson in about 5 days, great trip. Love to John. Regards to the folks. Write me at Dawson City, N. W. Ty. Can’t write more now. Yours old chum (chump) James S. Cooper P.S. Have really had a “hell of a time.” J.C.

Oct 10 Sun. J.S.C. gets views of mission bldgs and Indian grave yard. Trade bacon for c milk with post trader. Trade with Indians, c meal and s tea for $8. cash. Underway at 9 AM. Went ashore on right bank at 11 AM to hunt moose, no results. Got dinner and proceeded on down stream, find day, river bad, signs of prospectors on many bars. Camped on island at dark.

Oct 11 Mon. Underway at 8 AM, river full of bars, North wind; carried away mainmast by striking snag, keep on down all day, camp on right bank about 60 miles below Selkirk.

Oct 12 Tues. Started out 8 AM. Met two Klondykers about noon poling out. They report no grub at Dawson. Strike White River at 3:30, about 2 miles below find ten

Word of “no grub to be had at any price at Dawson” must have traveled far and quickly. In fact, it became government business in both Canada and the U.S. to try and

http://archiver.rootsweb.ancestry.com/th/read/NORCAL/2003-03/1046904125

http://archiver.rootsweb.ancestry.com/th/read/NORCAL/2003-03/1046904125


men building rafts to take down, also see considerable cordwood probably belonging to Arctic S.M., Co. Camped on left bank. J.S.C. killed a new variety of goose.

relieve the expected famine among the Klondikers. With steamers caught in the ice while sailing up the Yukon to Dawson from the Bering Sea, word gradually got through that there would be no food relief until Spring. Miners in Dawson were urged by several authorities to make their way out to save themselves, but meanwhile, hundreds or thousands continued to work their way to Dawson.

Oct 13 Wed. Underway at 7 AM, foggy and cold, passed Stewart River 10 AM, a quantity of slush in a few miles. Below find men with shattered raft on ice gorge. We keep in the current and make it OK. Harry kills a duck. About 3 PM pass 60 Mile Creek and arrive at Ja La Dus and Harper’s store at 60 Mile which consists of a 2 story log cabin and couple of bldgs. and saw-mill. Saw some bales of hay, were told they raised it in swamp back of the post. The first sign of a farm product outside of a small turnip and cabbage patch at Selkirk. The post is practically deserted, store closed up, an Indian in charge. No grub to be had. Continue on our way and camp on left bank in good timber about 4 PM about 6 miles below 60 Mile, where we propose to build raft to carry down logs for cabin and firewood.

Oct 14 Thu. Work all day on raft.

Oct 15 Fri. Put in another day on raft and have it about completed. Have 25 32 ft. logs 6 in. on long end and a number of smaller ones, rigged with 16 feet sweeps at each end. Firewood piled on top.

Oct 16 Sat. Started with boat tied to starboard side of raft at 8 AM. Make about 4 miles OK then run on reef, get off then strike half a dozen bars and finally at noon abandon raft. Take boat down right channel and camp for night.

Oct 17 Sun. Continue to within 3 miles of Dawson


In Klondike City

Oct 18 Mon. Take boat to Klondyke City, (Louistown). Ochs and Walker unload their stuff. Davis and Cooper camp in boat.

Should be noted as “Lousetown”. This is a settlement across the River from Dawson.

Oct 19 Tues. Still camped in boat, very disagreeable and cold, trying to arrange for cabin.

Oct 20 Wed. No arrangements as yet. Outlook at present not very good. Strike on at the mines. Mine owners want to reduce pay to $1. per hour, miners want $1.50. Plenty of lays to be had but most of them are of no account. The beach is covered with boats, river fast going down, great quantities of slush ice coming down with current. Navigation from now until the Yukon freezes over very dangerous and practically over. Dog trains on every hand. Klondyke City, where we are camped is boat is about 1 ½ miles above Dawson. The two forks of the Klondyke run between it and Dawson. Dawson a red hot mining town, a number of good log and lumber bldgs and two Sg Company stores and a number of single line merchants. No provisions can be bought at any price. I went down the 2nd day after reaching here and as we have 6 months grub and none can get in here until fully 8 or 9 months have passed, it means either short rations or rustle game and fish which is a tough proposition in this climate near the Arctic Circle. All I could buy in the way of grub was -- 1 doz. cans of evap. cabbage at 75 CENTS per can, five boxes Coxes Gelatine at 50 CENTS per box and 2-1# cans of lemon sugar. G and out sugar can be had at 30 CENTS per lb. -but we hate to put our little $119. into sugar as we have about 50# to the man. Many of the hardiest ones are selling their grub at fabulous prices and expect to go down on the ice as soon as the river closes to Ft. Yukon, Alaska, where we hear there is 1500 tons of provisions that the boats are unable to get and can be had at the rate of $6. per sack for flour, other things in proportion. One miner paid today $900. in dust for 8 sacks for flour. Grub of any kind is worth from $1.25 per lb. up. 40 N.W. Police in Dawson at barracks.

Parties leaving through October 16, represented, according to the newspapers, a “stampede” out of the Klondike. From the New York Times, November 29, 1897: “STAMPEDE FROM DAWSON; Impending Famine Throws Klondike Miners in that City into a Condition of Panic. AN EXODUS TO FORT YUKON Great Scarcity of Provisions Reported by Klondikers Just Arrived at Seattle -- Twenty-five Men with $60,000.”

Oct 21 Thu. Arrange to cache grub near “Old Joe’s” cabin about a mile up the gulch, borrow a sled, load 400# on it, get swade to watch bal. of outfit in boat and start. Hard work, very cold, make two trips. Camp again in boat. Cramped and disagreeable. 14 below zero.

Oct 22 Fri. Make three more trips and get all outfit to cache


which is a little house built 10 feet in air on four posts scraped smooth to keep grub away from mice, dogs, bears and thieves. Pitch tent late and have chilly time of it.

Oct 23 Sat. Trying to arrange for cabin. Mr. Burnham of Deadwood, S.D. proposed to join us.

Oct 24 Sun. No deal as yet, waiting on Old Joe, Short and Pete with two others building cabin near us. Dr. Van Zantz has cabin here, he is short on grub, so is Old Joe. Met Zabriskie on trail Wednesday, he and Lund have a lay up on “Bonanza”, was glad to know I had brought his bundle down from Skagway Trail. Dr. Shurman and Cooper of Leadville, Colo. also upon Bonanza, they promise to put us on. Harry and Joe go to town.

A Van Zandt of Peoria, Illinois mentioned returning from the Klondike to Port Townsend, January 3, 1898 [The New York Times, January 4, 1898: He was said to be with a party of 8, carrying $80,000 in drafts and gold dust. He was noted as having left Dawson on Nov. 25, 1897.

Oct 25 Mon. Slightly warmer, about zero. Stores and Post-office closed yesterday, Sunday. I have written no letters as no mail can possibly get out until river closes. Some excitement up on Quartz Creek, Dr. Van Zantz gets a claim. Short and Pete take a lay on Bear Creek.

Five men at mining operation, No. 5 below Bonanza Creek, Yukon Territory, ca. 1898. Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu/heggweb/index.html

Oct 26 Tue. Started to build a cabin 10 by 12 about ¼ mile up flat from cache.

Oct 27 Wed. Work on cabin, very cold. Life in tent almost unbearable.

Oct 28 Thu. Work on cabin. Jne. Lund gets bal.

Oct 29 Fri. Still working on cabin, all heavy work about done and sides and rear mossed. J.S.C. knocked out. About 150 cabins building on this flat. Provisions selling very high. Candles $1. each, all grub on an average of $1.50 per lb. Many lays to be had. But most are of no account. Davis and J.S.C. still undecided as to taking lay, prospecting or selling outfit and going out on the

http://content.lib.washington.edu/heggweb/index.html


ice and coming in in the Spring with grub to sell. Have read no mail since arriving. Mr. Burnham who is from Deadwood, S.D. and is camping with Panner Joe near us, wants to join us on lay on Bonanza.

Oct 30 Sat. On Thurs. met Griggs from Pt. Angeles, he has been since June, is shy of grub, he and partner have 40 cords of wood cut, are in cabin near us. Davis goes to Dawson to secure lumber to make door and casing, window frames, etc. Could get none. Bought 2 and ½# nails at 20¢ lb. Indignation meeting of miners in Dawson at 1:30 to protect against Canadian mining laws. Post-office moved down to Barracks.

It’s possible Cooper and Griggs had met when Cooper lived in Port Angeles, Washington, in the early 1990s.They may also have had mutual friends, or perhaps just an affinity because they had spent time in the same place. In any case, Griggs’ friendship would prove valuable during Cooper’s hard winter.

Oct 31 Sun. Davis and Burnham start for the diggings with 3 days rations.

Nov 1 Mon. J.S.C. works on cabin. Stopped at night with Panner Joe.

Nov 2 Tue. J.S.C. went to Dawson, no mail, met Swede Pete. Bought stove pipe, $1.50 per length. Tried for inside work in Dawson for winter, no success. Davis and Burnham return from up Bonanza and Eldorado Creeks, report a few good lays, bal. N.G. 19 and 20 Eldorado they say good pay dirt, chance for a good lay on #7 French Gulch, cabin and wood handy, may take it. 16 miles from here.

Nov 3 Wed. Davis and J.S.C. go to Dawson meet Stinger and Reynolds, Evans and Ferguson. Reynolds is going out, J.S.C. trying to secure 3 sacks flour from him by order on Grinnell per Seguine. Davis talks some of going out, if so to come in in Spring with provisions to sell. We both get haircut, $1. great change. Should Davis go out J.S.C. may make deal with Evans. Davis tried for job in tin shop, but no go.

Here’s a clue that Cooper’s Perth Amboy hometown friend, James Seguine, backed him or channeled Cooper family money to him. Suggesting Reynolds could collect from Charles Grinnell in Tacoma, who could in turn collect from Seguine in the East.

Nov 4 Thu. Impossible to arrange for Davis to go out.

Nov 5 Fri. Still camped in tent, very cold, start in to hurry up finishing cabin.

Nov 6 Sat. Continue to work on cabin. Strike still on up in gulch. Nothing doing. Yukon very bad, expect a gorge very soon. Cabin about finished. Just heard that a fellow killed 2 moose at the head of French Gulch. They are worth at present prices, $1,000.00. The deal for flour from Reynolds falls thru.

Here “a gorge” refers to the river being blocked by ice, and probably a rushing down the river of ice, doing damage to boats. For the Klondike, the chance to go out over the ice, instead of over water could be a benefit, however.


Nov 7 Sun. Yukon gorged, about 100 boats went out with the ice from Lousetown Beach, mostly ruined. Parties camped on beach had to scratch gravel for the bluff.

Nov 8 Mon. Finished up cabin. Nothing new.

Nov 9 Tue. Davis got a bad cut on foot with axe. Moved in cabin. Burnham helped us pack the cache over in the forenoon. In PM Davis and J.S.C. go with him to the river to try to save his boat from the gorge, no use, he can get the str. out tho. Ochs and Walker with 4 others have about finished their cabin at Lousetown. Met Mitchell and Howe who came up on the Starr. Cabin not dry yet but more comfortable than tent. Hard pack for water.

Cooper’s cabin was 10 x 12, and built by him and his partner. It can’t have been much better than the one in this picture:

Four men and dog in front of Roper Cabin, Cheechako Hill, May 13, 1900 Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu

Nov 10 Wed. J.S.C. has heavy cold, knocked out, Davis foot better.

Nov 11 Thu. Davis goes to Dawson, reports everything quiet. J.S.C. still laid up. No mail can get to the states probably before Jan 1st. Canadian mail goes out about the 20th of Nov. with dog-train if ice is safe.

Nov 12 Fri. Nothing doing. Everybody blue. Town and gulch quiet.

Nov 13 Sat. Nothing to note. Learned how to make “floats.”

Unable to find the meaning of “floats”

Nov 14 Sun. Cut wood, cold. Learned a new “McGrowley”.

Unable to find the meaning of “McGrowley”

Nov. 15 Mon. David gets a cracker jack on B.P. biscuits. J.S.C. goes to Dawson. Davis foot still bothers and painful. The news of Jack Dalton's and two of his men murdered confirmed by the N.W. Police. They were robbed and murdered on the Dalton Trail of the proceeds of beef brought in, $75,000. Swift Water Bill's party came to grief on the Dalton train in blizzard. Bill reported so

Sources say Dalton lived to 1944. Cooper is likely reporting rumors heard in Dawson. http://alaskamininghalloffame.org/inductees/dalton.php On “Nigger Jim”: “James "Nigger Jim" Daughtery - Daughtery was a tall, blond Missourian who got his name from the spirituals he liked to sing while playing the banjo. His gold fortune allowed him to buy two dance halls and a saloon. Daughtery's generosity was legendary, and though


http://alaskamininghalloffame.org/inductees/dalton.php


badly frozen that he can not live. They go back to Ft. Selkirk. Suppose the mail we sent out by them is sidetracked. The $20,000 robbery of dust at the saloon last night. Nigger Jim big loser. 25 below zero. J.S.C. at Dawson in PM sends letter to Mrs. T.E.C. by party going out in morning, a good outfit and think that they will make it OK. The W. U. Tel. representative is in the party. Soggs the jeweler from Binghampton, N.Y. sends a man direct to N.Y. City for a stock of good to bring in next summer, also to sell mining properties. Met W. H. Cooper at the A.C. Co’s store, he reports all of the Leadville outfit have given up mining but himself. He and new pardner are working on lay on #60 below on Bonanza, have one hole 7 feet down. Dr. Shurman going out. I call at Barracks, the Corporal in P.O. says no mail out until mail gets in from the States in about 2 weeks. Met Reynolds, he started out a week ago, made about 6 miles but had to return. This going out a very tough proposition. He still expects to start later.

he tried, he could neither spend nor give away his money as fast as he came by it. Daughtery was responsible for a second mini-gold rush, called the "Nigger Jim Stampede," that occurred in Dawson during January of 1899. During a bitter cold spell with temperatures dropping to sixty below, Daughtery led a small knot of frenzied men to a valley that was reported to be rich in gold. The men that survived the trek hammered in their stakes, only to ironically learn that it was quite worthless. [From: American Heroes of the Klondike Gold Rush, http://www.yukonalaska.com/klondike/bystate.html] A.C. Co.’s store probably refers to the Alaska Commercial Company’s wholesale operation in Dawson. The A.C. Company had a dominant role in supplying prospectors during the 1890s and beyond. [http://www.yukonalaska.com/pathfinder/gen/rhse_ownersAC.html]

Nov. 16 Tues. Very cold, 27 below. Stay in cabin most of the time and "wish we were home". Nothing new.

Nov 17 Wed. Still chilly. Rustle wood. No chance for anything up the gulch yet. Burnham made an extended call in PM.

Nov. 18 Thu. 39 below, stay in cabin. The Klondyke church burnt last night.

Nov. 19 Fri. Too cold to rustle. Keep hot fire all day. Ochs called and got meat.

Nov 20 Sat. It is reported that a great mass of mail is held at Tagish Lake until international mail differences have been adjusted.

Nov. 21 Sun. Nothing new, life very monotonous in cabin, too cold for any use. Strike still on at the diggings and very little work going on on lays owing to intense cold. Some hardy outfits ventured out with dog-trains and good equipment. Canadian mail route expected to open up soon. Start the "sourdough" proposition and bid farewell to baking powder which we have used continuously for four months. Start in at noon and Davis completes on dandy loaf of bread by 2 AM Monday. Good trail open now through woods to river, much handier for water.

Though it was Winter, plenty of mining would be underway. Miners would dig out “pay dirt” and pile it up for the Spring, when the “clean up” would happen. Clean up is the process of sluicing the gravel and dirt to separate the gold from it. Klondike miners would dig by thawing the ground with fire, and later steam, and then pile up the ore-rich dirt for the Spring.

Nov. 22 Mon. Same old story, "Wish we were home." Saw the sun

Despite his hardships, Cooper seems to have a knack for

http://www.yukonalaska.com/klondike/bystate.html

http://www.yukonalaska.com/pathfinder/gen/rhse_ownersAC.html




rise from the Klondyke bottom this AM and the coloring was grand. The sourdough bread a great and delightful novelty. We propose to have a feast on Thanksgiving, have invited Ochs an Walker to come (and bring their dinner); following is a “Bill-A-Fare” (as proposed). Fish-goose stew a-la-Bonanza, “Beef-McGrowley” a-la-“Bully”, sour dough bread and weary Skagway butter. Potatoes, solid, a-la-evaporated, U.S. rice pudding. Lem jello Yukon Basis. Boiled Cabbage a-la-tough, Apple-pie (if you can eat it), Mush Straight, Vegetable soup a-la-can, Citric acid on the side, Dawson Floats, lemon flavor, Klondyke Strawberries and Coleman’s mustard, Stewed Peaches, Boiled Apricots, Liver and Bacon (minus liver), Eldorado Flapjacks and maple syrup (if Ochs brings it), hot chocolate (if Ochs brings it), coffee, tea or milk, two cigars, more floats, hot B.P. Biscuits a-la-nuggets and tired butter. The foregoing may be modified or extended depending somewhat on our ability to rustle more tomato cans to complete our silver service.

finding things to enjoy. This description of their “feast” and his enjoyment of the sourdough bread shows that he knew how to make the best of his situation. Below is a scene of miners dining in their cabin.

Four miners in a cabin eating dinner by candlelight, probably Yukon Territory, ca. 1898. Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu

Nov 23 Tue. Much milder and snow. J.S.C. goes to Dawson. Met H. Fairchild and George Moore. Moore has job weighing in dust at Faro Bank. Looked up Evans. Found his cabin for rent and him away.

“Faro Bank” is probably referring to a saloon card game.

Nov 24 Wed. Bob W. Vimgor, Soggs, off on stampede. Cold.

Nov. 25 Thu. Thanksgiving. Our proposed feast indefinitely postponed owing to the scarcity of grub. 40 below. Big fire in Dawson last night, opera house, Dominion Saloon and several other buildings burnt to the ground. We blow ourselves to the extent of “Lemon Jelly Yukon Basis” and “Floats” but find it impossible to keep from being sober. Just heard that Panner Joe has composed a new chant on the Skagway trail, we are anxious to hear it delivered. Expect mail from the States soon. “Oh Joy”. It is reported by a party who just arrived that he passed dog-train bringing the mail with 175 dogs and provisions for the troops at the barracks in charge of the N.W.M Police.

Through the Fall and winter, news and rumor reaching the outside suggested that many miners would starve without food relief during the Winter of 1897-98. Cooper and his colleagues appeared to have stocked their supplies reasonably well, but complained of shortages. Response, according to New York Times and other sources from that year, including plans and ideas for food relief, stretching from aid brought to Fort Yukon, to a scheme of one inventor to build steam-powered sleds to bring in food. [The New York Times, November 30, 1897] From The New York Times, November 30, 1897:



The N.W.M Police were the forerunners to the Royal Canadian Mounted Police. “The Klondike Gold Rush in the Yukon created a new challenge for the Mounted Police. While the Mounted Police created a presence in the territory in 1895, the NWMP contingent in the Yukon grew from 19 men to 285 at the height of the Gold Rush in 1898 to ensure that law and order was maintained.” [Source: http://www.nwmpmuseum.com/historyofthenwmp.html]

Link to letter written on November 25, 1897 to his sister Joanna

Nov 26 Fri. Chilly, 50 below. Stay by cabin and bake bread, also wish we were home. J.S.C. writes 31 pages to D.E.C.

Nov. 27 Sat. 45 below, ditto 26th.

Nov. 28 Sun. We are not suffering any from the sun's rays. Griggs of Angeles calls and spends the PM, he has been in since June, get all the news from the Straits from him. We celebrate the meeting by indulging in a float, still sober. He reports Cole of Angeles on a lay on #25 below on Bonanza with pardner.

Nov. 29 Mon. Harry and I quite homesick, everything goes wrong, stove gets mean, spill sourdough, break axe handle and capsize grease lamp. "Wish we were home", still this is a Good Country. Burnham calls, reports no mail and Dawson quiet. H and J. play crib.

Nov 30 Tue. Arise 3 hours before the first “gray streak of dawn”, no mail. 50 below. Daylight now about 9 AM, dark at 4 PM, Burnham and Joe call.

Dec 1 Wed. No mail. Nothing of interest to note. Life in cabin very tiresome. Too cold to rustle outside. Made a table yesterday. J.S.C. writes letters.

http://www.nwmpmuseum.com/historyofthenwmp.html


Dec 2 Thu. Much warmer, snow last night. Fairchild calls, he, Van Zantz and Moore cutting wood near our cabin. Van Zantz called later. Davis went to Dawson. J.S.C. bakes SD bread. Walker called and spent the PM. Floats and vinegar. 50 below at Lousetown on the night of the 30th.

Dec 3 Fri. J.S.C. went to Dawson, got watch fixed. Mail again reported between here and Selkirk. A number of stampedes. Hunker creek reported good. Over, Bear, Moosehide, Skookum all heavily staked. Many fakes tho. McLoughlin down from Bonanza reports work continued at $1.50 per hour.

Any mail Cooper would have gotten that winter would likely have come by dogsled.

Dick Gardner's Circle City Express dogsled team on the frozen Yukon River, Yukon Territory, ca. 1898. Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu

Dec 4 Sat. Much warmer, rustle wood.

Dec 5 Sun. Reported 2600 men at Circle City shy of grub and 1100 on the way to Dawson coming in on the ice from Skagway and Dyea. Mail not in. McCloughlin and Burnham call in evening.

Dec 6 Mon. Nothing to note. All very homesick. Panner Joe over the cabin. Thinks he will soon make a cache of grub up on the Eldorado for Spring. A few fake stampedes reported.

Stampedes happened on rumors of new creeks where there was gold. Prospectors rushed to stake claims in new places since the Bonanza and Eldorado Creeks, which started the Gold Rush, were fully staked by others.

Dec 7 Tue. Dutchie called. J.S.C. sick. No mail. “Wish we were home.”

Dec 8 Wed. Cap. Ochs called. Walker gone up on Bowlder to size up a lay. If satisfactory we can join them at 60% of cleanup. Greggs over in PM. Gives pointers on lay on Skookum Creek.

Dec. 9 Thu. J.S.C. in bad shape. Will have to go to Dawson to see M.D. if no improvement soon. Getting colder. No



word from the mail. Trade c meal and ex beef to Joe yesterday for ex spuds and coffee. Some talk of Burnham and Davis going back up the Yukon 20 miles to old prospect hole with two weeks grub, they may go if weather permits. P.I. reported arrived in Dawson from the states badly frozen, now in hospital.

Dec. 10 Fri. Davis after job on #7 below Bear Ck. may get it. Walker at cabin today. I trade him 4 oats ex spuds and ancient bacon 15# told for 21# fresh meat. J.S.C. amputates end of left thumb, thus continuing this "endless round of pleasure," "Wish I were home."

Claims along creeks and rivers had a numbering system: #7 below Bear Creek would be the seventh 500ft??? claim downstream from the original discovery on the creek.

Dec 11 Sat. No mail, nothing to note.

Dec 12 Sun. Greggs called at cabin with Clarence Seeley who is down from Stewart River with party of seven to record claims on Henderson Creek. Clarence and George Seeley Struck Lake Bennett 5 days after we left, they lost 950# clear grub in the Dyea River but picked up enough to stay with it. Leavitt and Slaydon of Tacoma are going down with Seeley. All are located on Henderson. Leavitt killed a moose that dressed 700#, also some wolverines for fur. The boys from Stewart bitterly disappointed about mail they expected to take back to the camp with them. It’s a week’s trip from Dawson, they cover 150 miles on the ice.

Dec. 13 Mon. J.S.C. goes to Dawson, is taken sick been ailing some time, sees Dr. McEwen who says acute case of bronchitis and gives medicine and orders to stay in bed several days. That knocks my going up on Bowlder Cr. on lay. Have a hard time getting back to camp from Dawson, no breath. Say goodbye to Seeley who returns to Henderson tomorrow. He did not record this claim. A fellow who stampeded to Moosehide Cr. yesterday found frozen today, sad case. Weather mild, about 15 below. Many have gone out, grub coming down some. Barry's claims of 5 and 6 Eldorado marvelously rich. Met Pete Fuhrman in Dawson, says he and Short have 10 ft. hole down and that 3 claims about them 50¢ dirt has been struck. Many Bonanza lays are being abandoned.

Camp of Presbyterian missionaries, Young and Dr. McEwan, on the Chilkoot Trail, probably British Columbia, 1897. This Dr. McEwan is probably the one who treated Cooper. Image: http://content.lib.washington.edu

Dec. 14 Tue. Davis starts with 3 days rations for Bowlder Cr. to



investigate lay. J.S.C. feeling poorly, in cabin all day, no one called, lonely day of it. "wish I were home." No mail.

Dec 15 Wed. J.S.C. very sick all day. Miserable time of it, very dark and dirty in cabin, can’t help being homesick. Davis still up the gulch.

Dec 16 Thu. Slight better, expect Davis back tonight, Soft weather, slight snow. Shall try to write home if possible. Am still holding letters written 3 weeks ago for the Canadian mail. Shall wait no longer but ask some outgoing outfit at $1. per letter, if I can raise the mon. Davis and Walker come down from Bowlder Cr. and Walker stops in our cabin over night.

This may be the first mention Cooper makes of being out of cash. During the Journey and while in Dawson, he spends money on supplies, e.g. stove pipe, watch repair. But by now he is swapping supplies, and perhaps has run out of cash. Letter written to his sister Mary, December 16-19, 1897

Dec 17 Fri. Stay in cabin all day, write to M.P.C. Some better. Mild, some snow. Nothing to note.

M.P.C. is Mary Pullman Cooper, his older sister.

Dec 18 Sat. About 1 ft. snow. Greggs spend PM with us in cabin. If H. goes up gulch I may move over to Greggs cabin. No mail in. Burnham calls and stays until 12:30 AM. He, H. and Belbour figuring on trip up Yukon prospecting. 25 miles, one month.

Dec 19 Sun. Weather mild, nothing to note.

Dec 20 Mon. Sealed letters as follows, MPC, DEC, Capt S CHG, and shall endeavor to send some out immediately. About 4 PM I start out to find Greggs Cabin, find him and stay until 10 PM then swing down the Klondyke to Joe’s and make an hour’s call. First time I have been out of cabin since taken sick, about 10 days. At Gregg’s I meet Ellis of Duluth who has cure for bronchitis and promised to bring some over to my cabin. Am urged by Greggs and pardner to come over to their cabin and live with them bal. of winter should Davis go up gulch. They have log cabin 2 glass windows and good and dry. I shall accept should Davis strike permanent job. Borrow a five from Greggs to send my 4 letters out to the States with, also secure some candle wicking, he sets up some great crullers of his own make, great, Burnham’s scheme to prospect creek 20 miles up Yukon postponed indefinitely—Davis expects to get a job up on Hunker Ck. Preparing to leave tomorrow with 10 days’ rations. Last night beautiful Northern Lights, grand and very plain, sweeping the heavens again and again across the Klondyke.

He wrote to Mary Pullman Cooper (we have this letter), DEC (Done, or Joanna Cooper, this letter also survives), Captain Seguine, and Charlie Grinnell.


Dec 21 Tue. Shortest day in year but for some reason quite light at 9 AM. Weather mild, about 10 above, we expect some rough weather anytime now. The prospect for Xmas very blue. No celebrating in this God-forsaken country. The crowd at Gold Commissioners Office greater than ever. Fully 50 men in line waiting to record. Some come with blankets ready to camp all night. Lots of fraudulent filings made. A number of "Saloon keeper booms", the latest is on Bowlder. P. Wenberg calls and spends PM. Greggs brings over a lot of Frash's ointment from Ellis for J.S.C. Davis goes to Dawson. Heavy snow, may not go to Hunker tomorrow, trail too heavy.

Dec 22 Wed. Davis not up gulch yet, may not connect with job. J.S.C. sick all day.

Dec 23 Thu. Nothing new, no mail. I call on Greggs, am feeling poorly. He urges me to move over to his cabin which is larger, lighter, and dryer, am thinking seriously of doing so. On returning after dark I lose trail and have hard time finding cabin, snow very deep.

Dec 24 Fri. Stay in cabin all day, sick and blue, tomorrow is Xmas, nothing very merry about the blooming Klondyke. May move over to Griggs tomorrow.

Dec 25 Sat. Xmas. I spend day with Griggs and enjoy a fine dinner. Ellis and I are the guests, by far the best meal since leaving Skagway. Nice mild day, in fact, weather fine for this country.

Dec. 26 Sun. Weather mild, not well, stay in cabin. Shall move over to Griggs if Davis goes up gulch.

Dec 27 Mon. Davis decides to work on lay of Dr. Yates on Last Chance, we prepare to leave cabin. He goes up with Yates and dog train 15 miles and I move over to Griggs cabin, a good thing that I do as I am about helpless with bronchitis and stomach trouble, am so weak that Griggs has to help me over to his cabin which I find much pleasanter than mine.

Dec 28 Tue. Feeling about the same. Griggs goes to Dawson, sees Dr. McEwen who will be out tomorrow. Also find out at Yukon Hotel that my mail went out Xmas day with dog train taking two Drs. out. Sent 4 letters as follows—DEC. MPC. Capt. S. and CHG. With luck it ought to reach the States about Feb 1st. Have had

“Captain S.” is Captain Seguine, who was interviewed about Cooper’s death, and quoted in the New York Times, noted the receipt of a letter of December 19 from Cooper.


accident, wounded left hand with axe—two inch cut.

Dec 29 Wed. Just 6 months today I left N.Y. for Arizona. My hope is to get back alive by next August and to make a stake in the meantime if possible. I heard from a fellow whom I met and took photo of and partner at Bennett was shot and killed accidentally. Harvey, his partner brought his body in to Circle City, frozen in boat. Very sad. Last night one of the Portland men died in the hospital. We are still hopeful of getting mail from the States soon. My hand healing nicely. Dr. McEwen came out about 1 PM, dressed would and examines lungs, heart, etc. Leaves instructions and medicine. Says I must not expose myself to the cold.

Dec 30 Thu. Had bad night, no sleep, very cold today, about 40 below. Ellis Madden and Johnson called at cabin last eve.

Dec 31 Fri. Weather moderate, feel about the same.

Jan 1st, 1898. -- Sat. New Year sets in very mild, am some better. Big kick at Gold Commissioner’s office on claims being jumped on Henderson Ck. A squad of police sent up to investigate. Had a good New Year dinner. Nothing heard from the mail.

Jan 2 Sun. Very mild today. J.S.C. no better.

Jan. 3 Mon. Had a very bad night. Greggs goes to hospital to get me admitted. He and Merrind haul me down on sled, get here OK and am given bed in hallway 2nd floor. Feel poorly.

Jan. 4 Tue. Am now under Dr. La Blange treatment and hope to improve soon. In the hospital are 36 patients, many frozen, others broken limbs, rheumatism and fever cases. Father Judd who is the head of the institution is a good man and greatly liked by all.

Cooper went to the Catholic hospital St. Mary’s, founded and run by Father William Judge (not “Judd”), a Jesuit priest. Image: www.yukonweb.com Called the “Saint of Dawson,” Father Judge was a revered figure in Dawson. He arrived in March 1897, saw a powerful need for medical care, and worked doggedly to provide it. He built

the hospital and a church there. He first established a mission at 40 mile, in 1894, and followed the hunt for gold to Dawson by 1897. There he first built a log hospital and church.

http://www.yukonweb.com/


In addition to medical care, Judge often buried those who died in his care himself. He died in 1899 at age 47 of pneumonia, and the mourning for him included the town’s saloons closing for the day. Source: http://www.hougens.com/yukonHistory/nuggets_year/2000s.aspx?nugget=1899

Jan. 5 Wed Had a bad night and feel very poorly, am keeping the bed all day.

(Last entry, written in another hand.) Died Saturday 8th at 9PM very suddenly from heart failure.

http://www.hougens.com/yukonHistory/nuggets_year/2000s.aspx?nugget=1899

http://www.hougens.com/yukonHistory/nuggets_year/2000s.aspx?nugget=1899


After Cooper’s Death

The New York Times Perth Amboy New Jersey, Feb. 24. Capt. James Seguine of High Street, this place, received word to-day from Miss May T. Cooper of New York that she had received word from Dawson City that her brother, James Cooper, died in the Klondike on Jan. 8. She received a letter this week, written by her brother, saying that he was in poor health. Capt. Cooper died of heart disease. His last days were spent in the hospital at Dawson City.

Thoughts of Cooper’s childhood friend and later business partner, James Whitfield “Jim should never have gone on this adventure, for he did not have the constitution to stand such a trip.” [January 24, 1945, James Whitfield to James Cooper, Jr.]

Thoughts of Cooper’s friend, business partner and “banker” Charles Grinnell of Tacoma, letter to James Whitfield, Oct. 26, 1910 Charles H. Grinnell rose to a successful career at the Tacoma Grocery Co. He had been partners with Cooper and James Whitfield in the grocery business in the early 1890s. Cooper refers to him as his cousin at one point. In corresponding in 1910 with Whitfield, Grinnell writes “Jim Cooper, poor boy, to my mind died of a broken heart more than from anything else.” He adds that Cooper’s body was never brought out of the Klondike.

From Charles Grinnell letter to James Whitfield, Jan 18, 1911 “I am glad to know the Cooper girls are as well fixed as they are. From a letter I received from Mary not long ago asking me to try and dispose of the lot and a half that Jim owned as she needed the money led me to believe that they were not as well off financially as I hoped they were. You remember the lot and a half that Jim bought on Ferry St. some 21 years ago. I think it now would bring about $1500.00. It was certainly lucky for Jim’s children to fall into such good hands and I only hope that his children will group to be good citizens and show their appreciation to the Aunts who have certainly been kind to them all these years. It is very unfortunate that Jim married the woman that he did. There is no question in my mind but what he died of a broken heart. Of course, his trip to Dawson and the hardship that he endured hastened his death being run down physically.”

Diary of James S. Cooper and Associates to the Klondikemahaffie.net/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/diary-of-james-cooper_diar… · Diary of James S. Cooper and Associates to the Klondike

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