Dedicated to the Making of Fine Bamboo Fly Rods - Power Fibers · 2014. 12. 18. · Power Fibers, drop me an email at the following email address: [email protected]

October 2014 (Volume 57)

D e d i c a t e d t o t h e M a k i n g o f F i n e

B a m b o o F l y R o d s

Inside this issue:

The First Cast 4

Carbon Fiber vs. Nickel Silver

7

Rattan Wrapper 12

A Ferrule Slitter 17

Travelling Angler: An Enjoyable Afternoon on the Water

22

A Night at the Museum 32

Planing Clamp Jig 28

Graphite and conte pencil on paper courtesy of Alfonso Jaraiz Puig (http://artificialfliesdrawings.blogspot.com)

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New Offering We at Power Fibers have decided to offer web site hosting services for anyone who wants to set up a web site at an affordable price. We’re offer-ing space for you to upload your site along with a secure login to maintain the site. If you’re interested in more information, send a message to [email protected].

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The First Cast Todd Talsma, Editor

Power Fibers

Online Magazine

Editor

Todd Talsma

Contributors

Cris Carpenter

Mike McGuire

Bob Peterson

Kathy Scott

Tony Spezio

Todd Talsma

David Van Burgel

Copy Editors

Bret Reiter Carol Talsma Mark Wendt

Advisory Board

Russ Gooding Bob Maulucci

Bob Nunley J.D. Wagner

For more info contact:

Todd Talsma [email protected]

8412 North Maple Court Zeeland MI 49464

616.772.5043 Copyright © 2014 by Power Fibers

Here I am again, late on an issue. I’ve had quite a run getting these is-sues out this year! Well, we’re heading into the holidays now and it will soon be an new year rolling in soon. With that said, I’m going to be taking on some new endeavors in the next couple of years. I’m headed back to school to finally earn a degree I should have completed long ago. Because of this, I’m not going to be able to publish Power Fibers on a regular basis for a couple of years. I’m not saying that Power Fibers is ending, just that new issues aren’t going to be coming out as regularly as they should. The plan right now is that I’ll publish issues as I get five or six articles. I’m hoping that the issues will fall on a month in which issues have been released in the past. I’m not going to offer CD subscriptions for the time being, but if you want the CDs for the issues that were published during this time, I will offer them when normal publication begins again. I’ll be announcing new issues on the RODMAKERS listserv, the Classic Fly Rod Forum, the Power Fibers email list and the Power Fibers web site. Keep your eyes and ears open there and you should be able to get each issue. In the meantime, I would love to see your ideas written up for the maga-zine. As I said, I’ll be collecting arti-cles and publishing as I get enough material. Keep writing!! I can always use more ideas, feel free to contact me. If you have a sugges-tion about improving Power Fibers, drop me an email at the following e m a i l a d d r e s s : [email protected]

Warning!

Because many aspects of bam-boo rodmaking bring the maker in contact with machinery, bladed tools, volatile chemicals and gases, the editor and advi-sory board of Power Fibers ask you to exercise the utmost cau-tion when attempting to build or mimic any devices or activi-ties mentioned in this magazine.

Please have any devices you build and use in your shop checked by a safety professional before attempting to use such devices. This is to guarantee your personal safety and that of others around you.

If you choose to build any de-vice or use any technique found in this magazine, you are doing so at your own risk.

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Carbon Fiber vs. Nickel Silver Text and photos by Cris Carpenter

When it comes to ferrules, I have always been fascinated with alternative materials. After complet-ing some of my first rods, I wasn’t satisfied with the more traditional components and knew I needed to go in a different direction. About seven years ago, I started experimenting with alternative material ferrules. For a short time I had my eyes on fiberglass. There were several problems with fiberglass -- the first of which being strength. I had several prototype ferrules break before they even made it onto a rod. From there, I started talking with other makers to find out what their stories were. A good friend and customer owns a Winston 8’0” 5-weight with fiberglass ferrules. Unfortunately, those ferrules only lasted a couple of fishing trips before splitting. Another aspect of the fiberglass is color. Specific or cus-tom colors require custom dying. It is difficult to obtain an exact color match each time. Fiber-glass naturally has a hemp tint; however, I have never preferred that look when combined with a bamboo rod. After about a year working with fiberglass, I began to experiment with Carbon Fiber (“CF”). This material comes in a nice black color that does not detract from the bamboo. It is much stronger and weighs slightly less than fiberglass. I have since made several rods with CF ferrules. The first was using a CF Sleeve (see photo below). I shape the bamboo on the tip of the rod to fit the CF female

ferrule. The first rod I built with this style, an 8’5” 4-weight, performed very nicely. I caught some really nice fish with this rod on the Henry’s Fork one summer; however, I discovered a problem. The type of configuration can cause slippage. When the CF ferrule and the bamboo go from hot to cold from the water and the general environment from which you are fishing, a natural contraction occurs within the materials. I carried a small package of carnauba wax and about once a day would re-wax the bamboo ferrule for a snug non-slipping fit. As you can imagine, it is more than a bit strange when casting your rod and the tip shoots out of the butt section.

(Continued on page 8)

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The next step was to go to a CF spigoted ferrule. I made a 7’6” 4-weight 3 piece rod with this design (see photo left). The rod only weighed 1.9 ounces. I met and talked with Tim Anderson about his spigoted ferrule design and was able to incorporate some of his ideas. The preliminary tests on this rod went really well. As I started to get excited about this design I eventually realized that it had limitations as well. As I put this rod through more strenuous tests, the CF spigoted ferrules failed. When this progression through alternative materials stalled, I refo-cused my efforts on Nickel Silver (“NS”) ferrules. There are many different types and makers of these ferrules. For the purpose of this article I will discuss three different types of NS ferrules—the Rush River, Classic Sporting Enterprises (truncated and micro) and Hariki.

In the picture above you will see the female ferrules of the above listed brands. In the picture be-low you will see male ferrules of the same. The weights are: Rush River .23 oz, CSE Truncated .18 oz, Hariki .12 oz and CSE Micros .12 oz. For these photos and weights I have used sized 13 fer-rules. The CF sleeve that I use for these type of dimensions would weigh .10 oz.

(Continued on page 9)

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In summary, is NS is an overall better product for ferrules for several reasons. First, the addition of a small amount of material weight is insignificant to the rod overall. Second, it is quite time con-suming to properly make a quality set of fiberglass/CF ferrules; the additional time eventually is reflected in the price of the rod. In my own experience fishing and casting my rods with the CF ferrules, I was not able to discern a great amount of difference, but recognize this is also subject to personal preference. Third, NS is tops in terms of material strength and longevity. Most of the al-ternative material ferrules produced by builders require some general maintenance and can break-down under the stress of hard fishing. Tim Anderson’s ferrules are an exception. His include a re-inforcement system to protect the CF. Last, but certainly not least, is price. I am able to purchase a quality set of NS ferrules for around $50. If forced to machine my own CF ferrules, around $400 would be added to the final price of the rod. The actual material cost is inexpensive and one can have a “Franken Ferrule” if they choose. However, I prefer a machined look ferrule for custom rods. I personally use Hariki ferrules. I have used this assortment of ferrules discussed here and prefer these for their weight and length. They are the same weight as the micros, but are slightly longer. I have had two customers that fish their rods made with CSE micros very hard. Both customers have had male ferrules come off—the only two I have experienced with my custom rod making in 7 years. The micro male ferrule does not provide enough material to properly attach to the tip of the rod. Unfortunately, there does not seem to be enough material on the micros to pin them either.

There are a good number of builders today that are experimenting with alternative material ferrules. My friend and Japanese builder, Akimaru, makes a very nice quality bamboo ferrule. Although they require a small amount of maintenance, I have seen several fish taken well over the 20” range on these rods. The price of these rods reflects the commensurate craftsmanship required to produce such superior quality.

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Rattan Wrapper Text and photos from Tony Spezio

This photo shows the shaft with the loading spring, washers and crank handle. Note the knurled ring. The ring is used to tighten the spacer against the grip and to compress the spring on the back end of the grip. This tightens the grip on the turning shaft. This photo shows the spring, washers and spacer. The rear spacer has a slot cut in it to accept the end of the rattan used to start the wrap.

(Continued on page 13)

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This photo shows the crank handle, front spacer and the tightening ring. This photo shows the follower that guides the rattan onto the grip.

Here is the grip mounted on the shaft.

(Continued on page 14)

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Here the grip is in place and ready to wrap. You can see above how the wrap is started. I start the wrap on the large end of the grip. The rattan is inserted in the slot on the rear spacer and the wrap is started. The follower will guide the rattan onto the grip one wrap against the other. Adjust the tension on the rattan with the two nuts on top of the follower as needed. Apply glue as the wraps are made. When the wraps are complete, I clean off the excess glue. I use Elmer's Carpenter glue for this application since it cleans up with a wet cloth. Leave the grip in the fixture until the glue is set.

(Continued on page 15)

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The two photos above show the wrapping of the rattan. When the glue is set, remove the grip from the fixture and, with a sharp razor, trim the ends of the rattan flush with the grip. This will taper the rattan ends for a smooth transition. You can then wrap some colored thread in the wrap grooves or flame spots on the rattan. Apply some finish on the wraps to seal it.

Here you can see two grips that are finished. To make the rattan easier to wrap, you might want to wrap the grip with the damp rattan first to give the rattan a set. Remove the rattan when dry and then glue the wraps. I wrap the rattan damp over the Elmer's glue as it is water based glue. All the metal parts are made from Aluminum except the shaft and the follower rod.

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Green Highlander Flyfishing Company

Home of Bret’s Bamboo Ovens

These are the best bamboo ovens you can buy for heat-setting and heat-treating.

Visit our website at:

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- or -

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A Ferrule Slitter Text and Photos by Mike McGuire

This is a simple easy-to-make setup for slitting ferrules for bamboo fly rods. It is similar in part to one described in an article in the January 2010 Power Fibers by Dennis Bertram. What's different is the method of holding the ferrule for slitting, which I think is a little simpler for someone with limited machining skills. It also owes something to some ideas that Don Schneider wrote of on the rodmakers list. Here's the big picture.

A high rpm rotary tool is held by hose clamps and 3/4" aluminum angle to the base. The ferrule is held in a nylon collet and placed in piece of 1" flat to flat aluminum hex stock running be-tween aluminum angle rails. A stop limits the travel of the hex stock.

(Continued on page 18)

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Above is another view of the setup. The blade is 0.015" thick from Gyros, obtained at a local hard-ware store. When the edge of the ferrule is just in contact with the blade, the length of the slit is de-

(Continued on page 19)

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termined as shown in the picture. Also as noted there, the rotary tool is shimmed such that the edge of the blade is no lower than the center line of the ferrule. We want to cut one slit at a time. The horizontal position of the blade is adjusted by sliding it so it's in line with the edge of the hex stock that is up.

The collet is made from 0.500 nylon (see photo above). The hex stock is bored to hold it. There are 10-32 set screws in holes tapped in alternate faces of the hex stock near the edge. One can be seen in the picture above. Three slits 120 degrees apart are made in the collet with the saw. The collet is made long enough so that it can be held in the hex stock while slits are cut long enough so that the collet can also be used to hold a ferrule accurately in my 3-jaw lathe chuck without marring it. Obvi-ously I make a collet for every size ferrule I make.

Above is a slit ferrule. After slitting there will be a burr at the end of each slit. This is easily re-moved by twisting a drill the I.D. of the ferrule in it. The fixture is very handy to hold the ferrule to crown it.

(Continued on page 20)

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I do the crowning free-hand with a small rotary tool that fits the palm of my hand nicely. The cutting is done with a 220 grit sanding disk. The advantage of the sanding disk is that it cuts only on one side at a time. One doesn't have to worry about what is happening to the adjacent tab while working on one. Also the disk won't fly to bits if it gets chipped like the ceramic disks do. Below is a finished ferrule

Sources of materials and tools The two rotary tools shown here were from Harbor Freight. The the big one is available at this link (http://www.harborfreight.com/variable-speed-rotary-tool-kit-68696.html). It's often on sale for about $20. The design has changed since this was written, so the mounting arrangement may need to be different. The small one is available at this link (http://www.harborfreight.com/80-piece-rotary-tool-kit-97626.html). I have seen it on sale as low as $7. With the sanding disk it's also very handy for removing the barb on hooks. The saw blade is from Gyros, see this link (http://www.gyrostools.com/Circular-Saw-Blades,-Miniature---Works-with-*Dremel%C2%AE-Miniature-Fine-Teeth-Circular-Saw-Blades/c15_43/p435/Saw-Blade-w/Mandrel-Set,-Fine-Teeth-1-1/4%22-Dia.--%2382-11215/product_info.html). It was available in a local hardware store. The nylon and the hex stock came from McMaster-Carr. Here's a link (http://www.mcmaster.com/#aluminum/=aukgf9) to the hex stock, and a link (http://www.mcmaster.com/#nylon-rods/=aukh3m) to the ny-lon. The nylon turned out to be slightly oversize and had to be lightly turned to fit the 1/2' hole bored in the hex stock. The machining required to make this setup is well within the capabilities of a small metal lathe.

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Traveling Angler: An Enjoyable Afternoon on the Water Text and Photos by Bob Peterson

I was able to get out for a while the other day. I went to the local stream for a few hours. The water level was nice so I bushwacked upstream a bit and worked my way down.

I got to the water here.

It’s looking good.

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Yes, there was a fish where you think it would be.

Working my way down…

(Continued on page 24)

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Found a few more of these guys, and took a break.

Downstream a little bit more.

Looking downstream. (Continued on page 25)

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From the same spot looking upstream.

On the way out. Only during spring runoff is there water here. (Continued on page 26)

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Daylight is ahead.

Where you come out of the woods.

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Planing Clamp Jig Text and photos by Todd Talsma

After making over 30 rods, I finally decided to come up with a better solution to holding strips down in the groove of the planing form. When I first started making rods, I tried to hold the strip in place with my fingertips. Although this worked, as I did more rods (or got…let’s say…more experienced, not older) I found that holding strips this way was just getting more and more problematic. You see, my hands weren’t what they were a few years before and they would begin to cramp trying to keep the strips in place. After reading accounts of people using spring clamps to hold strips, I bought a good clamp with rubber tips and that worked great. The biggest problem I had with using these clamps was that believe it or not, my hands would still cramp up while using this clamp. Are you starting to see a pattern here?? The setup I used for most of the rods that I’ve made is to put my planing forms up on pieces of 2”x2”x5” wood covered with the nonslip counter “mat” that you can pick up at a lot of stores. Do-ing this, I could easily place the spring clamp in place. It was quick and easy to unclamp the strip, flip it and reclamp it. Pretty much standard practice for a lot of rodmakers I would think. What I decided to do was work to create a planing “station” that utilized a wood base, a couple of wood runners, a “t” track and a lever clamp that can be used to hold the strip in the planing form groove. This isn’t an original idea on my part. If you look at the contraptions section of the bam-boorodmaking.com site, you’ll see a few of these stations that were created by Carsten Jorgensen, Tom Smithwick and David Van Burgel under the “Planing Clamps” section of the site. I’m sure other rodmakers have thought up much more elegant solutions to this issue, but I thought I’d share what I’ve done to solve my problem. What I really needed was a self-contained fixture that wasn’t too huge and would allow me to plane the same way I had in the past. I also wanted to keep the same efficiency when clamping the strip that I had used before (this isn’t a huge issue though, I’m not a production rodmaker by any means). My first attempt to go the cheap route to solve my problem was pretty much a disaster. I bought a 1”x6”x6’ piece and three pieces of 1”x1 1/2”x6’ of the “white wood” from a big box store (cost was about $15). I failed to check the 1”x6” piece of wood for straightness and though it looked pretty good in the store, when I got it home to put together, the board was warped. When I put the board on my bench with one end flat on the bench, one of the far corners raised up almost an inch off the bench. I thought, “When I put the other boards on for guides, the board will straighten right out.” Well, that was a good thought, but when I had the 3 guide boards screwed to the 1”x6” board, the end had come down, but it was still ½” off the bench on one corner. DOH!!! Even when I put my planing forms on the board, it still didn’t make a difference. The experiment wasn’t a total loss, I was able to see if the clamp would hold the strip while planing and also if the pressure would hold the planing form to the fixture. Another thing this exercise made me think about is how to configure the fixture. In this first attempt, I had a guide on either side of my planing forms. This was OK, but it didn’t give me access to the adjustment bolts on my planing forms with the forms in the fixture. The more I thought about it, the more it made sense to remove that guide from the fixture. After thinking about what to do with a workable fixture, the first thing I needed to look for was for

(Continued on page 29)

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some straight wood. Back I went to the big box store to see what my options were. What I found was that Aspen was the best choice. The larger pieces (1”x6”x6’) where all nice and flat, so that would solve the biggest problem I was running into. The smaller strips were more like 1”x2”, which I thought would actually be better in the long run. So, I bought one of the larger pieces and two of the smaller pieces (about $30). A little more expensive, but you get what you pay for. When I be-gan to assemble the fixture, I positioned and fastened the first guide strip so that my planing form is just over the edge of the larger board that makes the base of the fixture. I then added the “t” strip to the fixture and found that the second guide strip that I had purchased ended up being too wide for the fixture, so I ended up using one of the strips of “white wood” that I had purchased for the initial test as the second guide strip. Once I had the strips in place, I broke the edge of the guide strip that the back edge of the planing forms rest against so that it wouldn’t cause problems while planing. I added the lever clamp and gave the fixture a test drive. It worked like a charm and I was pretty happy with the results. I thought about it a little bit more and decided that I would add strips on the bottom of the fixture to get it a little off the workbench surface. Again, while not as elegant as some of the other examples of this type of fixture, I’m happy with the results. Hopefully this gives you an idea of something that will aid the planing process. I’m sure it’s going to help me in the future. Here are some pictures of the jig:

Overall picture, since I took this, I’ve stapled a layer of nonslip shelf lining on the front “ledge” of the jig. This is where the planing form will rest, so the form shouldn’t slip around while on the jig. My forms have the push/pull bolts on the same side of the forms, so they will be facing out when I’m using the jig. I can keep the forms on the jig while adjusting the forms for the taper.

Here is what the underside of the jig looks like. I’ve also put the nonslip shelf lining on the bottom of each of the boards on the base of the jig so that the jig won’t slip on the bench while planing.

(Continued on page 30)

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Here is a closer look at the jig where the “t” strip is attached to the jig. I can move the clamp up and down the length of the “t” strip in the jig.

Here is a little better picture of the clamp. All I need to do to move the clamp is loosen the knobs on either side of the clamp, move the clamp to where I want it and tighten the knobs back down. To operate the clamp, I pull the red lever toward me to lock the bamboo strip in place on the planing form. Overall, I’m very pleased with how the jig turned out. I’d be interested to hear from other makers on what types of jigs they’re using.

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A Night at the Museum Text by Kathy Scott, Photos by Kathy Scott and David Van Burgel

The Catskill Fly Fishing Center and Museum in Livingston Manor, New York, is 450 miles from our home in Norridgewock, Maine. It’s a bit of a trip to teach a bamboo rod making class there, but well worth the miles. That extended class in June, rodmaking immersed in the beauty and history of the Catskills, and the long rodmakers’ weekend in September, mingling at the Gathering, both re-verse the old saying: It’s not about the journey; it is all about the destination. The miles between us do make dropping by the museum any other time unlikely. In October, how-ever, a detour while traveling west brought us to the Catskills, and we decided to stay over-night. Fortunately, the museum offers bunk space, right on site. There are cozy rooms in Livingston Manor or nearby Roscoe, but there’s something almost magical about a night spent on the museum grounds. The moon rises over the mountains, the Willowemoc whispers by, and the lingering spirit of the community of rodmakers nestles in for the night. The evening hours offered us a chance to catch up on changes in the rod shop/classroom, hear the news from Executive Direc-tor Jim Krul, and share the life and times of the almost resident rodmaker, Mike Canazon. The new-est museum acquisition explains our presence, though: the Everett Garrison rod shop. It’s hard to imagine anyone making a split cane rod that isn’t familiar with A Master’s Guide to Building a Bamboo Fly Rod, the tribute to Everett Garrison penned by Hoagy B. Carmi-chael. Harder still to imagine spending the evening in the company of those artifacts, the very tools and benches depicted on its pages. To be able to sit on the chair where Garrison, and then Carmi-chael, sat to bind rods, an original Garrison binder secured to the table. To be able to pick up their hammer and chisel used to knock out nodal dams. Being able to explore the large wooden tool chest holding their treasured tools is priceless. Examining their lathe and discovering the wooden step-chuck mounted as depicted in “The Book,” still ready to hold cork rings in place to be drilled. To thumb though Garrison’s actual shop notes and letters, preserved in slipcovers. It is history, now accessible and meant to be used.

(Continued on page 33)

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The Catskill Fly Fishing Center and Museum has embraced split cane rodmaking like no other insti-tution. Thanks to Hoagy B. Carmichael’s generous contribution, an important part of the heritage of rodmaking now makes its home there. These photographs only offer a glimpse. It’s well worth the journey to see them and touch them for yourself.

Assorted tools

Binder on bench with chair (Continued on page 34)

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Binder

(Continued on page 35)

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Cork Holder in Lathe

(Continued on page 36)

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David Van Burgel at the Garrison Bench

(Continued on page 37)

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Garrison Book and Tools

(Continued on page 38)

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Gouge described and shown in book on the page where it is described.

(Continued on page 39)

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Kathy Scott at the Garrison bench with tools described in the book.

The Garrison tool chest (Continued on page 40)

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The stool from the Garrison workshop.

(Continued on page 41)

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The splitting gauge on the page of the book where this tool is described.

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Power Fibers is an online magazine that is dedicated to all things

related to bamboo rodmaking and fishing. We welcome submis-

sions of material from you, the readers. Submissions can be for

rodmaking techniques, maker interviews, product reviews, book

reviews, tapers, bamboo fishing stories or fly patterns and how to

fish them. Please visit our web site and go to the “Write for Us” link

for more information about submitting articles for the magazine.

PowerFibers Online Magazine 8412 North Maple Court

Zeeland MI 49464 Phone: 616-772-5043 Cell: 616-886-8695

Email: [email protected]

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