Copy Your Garments With Precision

7/18/2019 Copy Your Garments With Precision

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Copy Your

Garments withPrecisionWith a f lexib le ru ler , you can capture

t h e s h a pe of a ny g ar m e n t ag a i n a n d ag a i n

B Y J E A N H A A S

hen t comes o replicang and outining any curved shape, you

really can't bea the wonderl propertes of a lexble ruler Ts

ruer with an inner lead core comes in a vare of szes and can

conour almos anything Tink of all the times you coud have

used a tool hat could copy the shape of what you were worng

on so tha you could then ransform it nto a la patern Well

a lexble ruler does jus tha So now you don't have to resort to apping wres orcoat hangers around your paerns o capture he shapes ha you've always waned.

You can simply use an assorment of lexible rulers o qucy and easly do a precse

and more professional job for all your patern wor

Flexible rulers come in lengths om 16 to4 inches and are bendable, pliable, tistable, and,

well, lexible. A lexible rler has a measuring tape ithin the plastic coating on each side of

it; one side gives measurements in inches and the other in centimeters When you are outlin-

ing a shape, this mltifaceted tool allows you to also measure the shape's length and add seam

allowances to it at the same time Tese rulers are especially usel for copying very precise

curves, shapes, and sizes. Imagine, taking anything threedimensional and turning it into a lat

pattern quickly and easily Just contour the inner edge of the rler against the outer edge of the

shape you want replicated and trace. ts really that imple.

Adding Seam AllowancesTe dimensions of the lexible ruler itself can also be an aid to your patternmaking. Since it

measures% inch wide when lying lat or J inch wide when on its side, it can easily alter your

pattern by those dimensions. Just hold the lexible ruler on its side and it will add a clean

www . t h r e a d sm a g a z i n e c om F E B R UAR Y/ MARC H 20 07



F L E X I B E R U L E R S

-inch seam allowance as it outlines any shape

it's replicatin By turnin it over and layin it

lat aainst your seamline you can instantly

add a -inch seam allowance to all of your

pattern's seamlines

Before you start, remember the se tipsWhen usin the ruler aainst the body or any

pattern seamlines remember to lay the side fac

in the inches measurements next to the shape

that you are followin Since the idth of the

ruler is inch, you'll want to record the measure

ment side that is closest to the body; otherwise

you will increase the dimensions you are measur

in by inch If you prefer centimeters then

just lip it over to the other side and lay the

metric portion aainst the shape to et that

readin as well.

You will nd it easy to outline around the rulerwith a marker, as its plastic outer shell is water

proof. This is another convenient feature when

usin water-soluble pens

You' nd a l sorts of surprising usesThe list of uses for lexible rulers oes on and

on (n fact dont be surprised if it shows up in

your husbands toolbox!) Tey are available in a

variet oflenths each oerin its own special

nctions er worin with these wonderl

tools for the past 15 years d ove to share these

secrets with you.

Use a 4o-inch ruler for arge shapesTy these folloin suestions:

Create crotch curves for plus sizes. Plus sizes

include curves loner than 3 inches.

Design beautul longer necklines. Use it for both

the ont and back such as V-neclines (shown at

riht) and boat neclines

Establish princess line seams when tissuetting

Start by alinin one end of your lexible ruler at

the midpoint of the shoulder and continue down

until you intersect the bust point Simply draw in

a perfect princess line seam

Copy longer collars When copyin loner

shaped collars like a shawl collar wrap one end of

the lexible ruler aainst the collar's center-back

seam and follow the ruler alon the shape of your

collar. When you have outlined the whole shape

50 TH R EA D S

conti n u e d • H

Get creative with you r projec

Change your patterns and more with each size of ru

USE A 40-INCH flEXIB LE RULER

TO DES IGN BEAUTIFUL N ECKLIN ES

o make a pl ung ing back Vneck, wrap the ends of a 4-inch flexib

together with a rub ber band. Then position the rul er around the n

with the ends i n the back . Let the ruler gracefully shape where it n

fal s. Trace the desired shape onto your m usli n o r tissue pattern

Trace the desired shape

Position the ruler around the neckline.

USE A 24INCH flEXIBLE RULER TO POSITION BRA STRA

Reposition fal lin g bra straps by placing your flexible rul er to where

feels comfortable on your shoulders The ruler will instantly confo

provide the strap's correct position on your body. Mark where the r

intersects the back of the br a an d reposition your strap. No more

fall ing bra straps!

Newposi



USE A 32-INCH FLEXIBL E RUL ER TO COPY CURVES FROM YOUR FAVORITE PAIR O F PANTS

Turn the pants nsi de out. Place one

pant leg inside the ot her to reveal

the i nside of the crotch curve. Pin to an-

chor at the wastli ne so that the curve

doesn't shif. hen ay the i nches side

of the flexible ruler along the seamlne

of th e pants an d record the front crotch

measurement (the distance along the

curve from front waist to ins eam).

On your pattern, start the ruler a t

zero at the centerfront wais t and

alter the front crotchn seam ts sue to

meet the front length meas urement .

Pin the tssue pattern inseam together

at the new crotch point.

Align your newly sha ped flexble

ruler onto your tissue pattern and

draw in the rest ofthe crotch seam (us e

the nside ofthe ruler).

Mark the new seami ne followng

the flexible curve then add seam

al lowances to it.

Lay the ruler along the inside seam.

USE A 16-INCH FLEXI BLE RULER TO E NHANCE YOUR JEWELRY

Customdesign a neckine to showcase your

jewelry. Put your jewelry on with your chose n

garment, and mark equidistant from your

neckl ace to your new preferred necki ne. Pla ce

the flexible ruler at the markings. The ruler

wil ho ld the shape while you draw in your

new neckl ne. Your jewelry i s now enh anced

by your new neckline.

SOURCES

DressFormDesigning.comFlexibleRuers.comJoAnn.com

ww w. t h re a d s m a g a z i n e c o m

Alter the front curve ofthe tissue patte to

meet the front length measurement. Pin the

tissue pattern nseam together.

Above: Mark seamlines on the tissue patte

Le Draw in the rest of the curve.

F E B R U A R Y / M A R C H 2 0 0 7



f l X I B L R U L R S

the clla with the ule, gently li it

the shape yuve just cpied and tace

the utline nt anthe paen.

Chnge longe coll o neckline width

Decease incease any necline

clla width while still keeping its

iginal shape. Lay the lexible ule nthe utside edge the clla neckline

t dwnsize incease m the ule's

edge and tace a new edge

Replicte hpe fo home dec F a

wing chai cuch lay the le against

the seamline and align the ule

t llw the shape the cuved

egin yu ing chai. Cae

lly li the shaped ule and

tanse that shape t a patten

Use a 32inch rulerfor misize projectsWhen yu pject is medium

size take these tips:

Outline cotch cuve fo

medium ize Use this cuve

lengths up t 32 inches (see

p .1) .

Tue in longe ptten emline

piece fo longe too D yu

seamlines lk like zigzag pin

makings n yu tissue ae

patten tting? Just lay the inne edge

yu lexible ule n its side t mimic

yu newly alteed utline Yu ule

will cect and blend the uneven pin

makings. Daw in yu newly tued

seamline. Dn't get t use the ute

edge the ule t instantly utline a

clean �-inch seam allwance.

Shpe yoke on jcket, bloue n d

vet F a westen yke, lk n the

than yu exible le. Just m the

ule int the desied shape and tace itn the nt and back yu paens.

Mak ntches cut the paen apat, and

add seamlines t the cut edges

Poition U-neckline cuved neckline

nd bot neckline ts easy t play

aund with shapes yu necklines

Yu can tuly custmize the shape

and psitin all yu neclines by

laying the lexible ule aund yu

52 H R A D S

necline and tanseing that shape

nt yu patens.

Use a 24inch ruerfor sma lle r projectsNavigate snug spts with these ideas :

Outline hote cotch cuve Use ctch cuves up t 24 inches lng.

Poition b tp y this tick n

custm bas alteing eady-t-wea

bas (see the example n p. 0).

Outline nd eize mhole up to

4 inche When tying t pattent yu

amhles all yu sleeveless ga

ments wap the lexible cuve aund

yu amscye (amhle). Align the ule

vetically at the shulde tip and cn

tinue dn and aund yu undeam.

Then, tace the utline and yuve in

stantly ed yu pattes amhle and

shulde widths cectly t yu bdy

Mke cutom ht Since mst adult

heads ae less than 24 inches, yu can

easily eplicate a head shape. Wap theinne edge the ule aund the aea

whee the hat will "sit and gently li

the shaped le nt paten pape.

ace aund the inne ptin the

shape yu need t knw the ttal ci

cumeence measuements it ill shw

that at the same time.

Downize leeve cp to t ptte

mhole Yu can easily decease the

excess amunt abic in a sleev

when yu have t much ease Ju

cntu the lexible ule aund

seamline at the tp the sleeve c

Recd the length. Simply slide d

aleady shaped ule just beeen

sleeve ntches the amunt that yt decease the excess llness,

and etace the iginal cuve t

sleeve head.

Use a 16 -in ch ru er for tiny proThis smallest ule is nav

supetight places

Outline cicumfeence ofn

line Ceate new custm ne

n pattens and enhance y

ely (see the example n p.

Outline hpe nd width ocup fo b mking When m

ing custm ba paens, cm

and/ eplicate yu ba cu

ith the lexible ule.

Mke quick-nd-ey mitte

lippe ptte outline Shap

lexible le aund yu h

t t make mitens slip

Mke ptte fo doll Sh

ceate yu wn dll patten

Cete unique pocket hpe

can add inteesting shapes t the

tms tps yu pckets. Kid

pckets that elect thei hand's s

Just lay thei hand n patten pap

shape the ule aund thei hand

line. Add a seam allwance by ut

the ute edge the shape

Shpe yoke on pnt nd kit

shapes and designs t the smalle

paens pants and skits, just p

yu desied shaped utline m

lexible ule nt yu pattens. ntch, cut and add seam allwan

each the cut edges.

These ae just a ew the eats

ible ules. With these secets and

imaginatin, lexible ules will lik

becme yu avite ntin.

Jean Haas the a uthor ofmany DV

and onine casses, ives in Ilinois.

Copy Your Garments With Precision

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