Conclusion - Edith Cowan University

Conclusion

The apparel oft proclaims the man . . . - William Shakespeare930

The aim of this thesis has been to examine the economical, sociological and cultural aspects of fashion and clothing in colonial society in order to demonstrate how clothing was used socially and economically to establish class, status and power in the colony of Western Australia. This research represents a new departure in the study of Western Australian historiography because for the first time, dress is related to social, cultural and economic development in colonial history. The dearth of direct publications on Western Australian clothing, except for two journal articles, from the time of foundation to the present day is confirmation of the inattention afforded to clothing in Western Australian histories of the colonial period.

This study has asked what the major social and geographical impacts were on early Western Australian clothing. It has also enquired into the extent to which Western Australian colonial clothing reflected the social structure, standing and inheritance of Victorian Britain; has examined the industry of clothing, resources and materials and their impact on the economy of the colony; has questioned whether colonial clothing negotiated gender boundaries; and has addressed whether the chronological evolution of fashion in colonial Western Australia was consistent with the concurrent fashions in Britain and other Australian colonies. Also, the study included the interpretation of the findings in terms of Veblen's and Simmel's theories.

What were the major social and geographical impacts on early Western Australian clothing?

In addressing the above research question, the thesis has highlighted the fact that clothes are a major tool in the construction of identity and that the primary influence in the type of clothing worn by individuals within a society is cultural. However, in addition to the social impact on clothing there were other factors which dominated change in colonial clothing: resources (economics), availability, inheritance, isolation and climate. These, in conjunction with the reinterpretation of

930Hamlet, Act. 1, Scene. 3

3 19

British social values in the new environment resulted in particular colonial characteristics.

The settlers' British heritage was a major influence in the colony as the governance of British influence was visible in every facet of colonial society especially in the early years. Procedural and customary formalities such as mourning rituals, religious rites and other societal functions, ie, etiquette, were conducted in accordance with British practice. In relation to attire, strong European fashion acceptance was evident throughout the nineteenth century in Western Australia. As British expatriates, the early colonists embraced the British-inherited tradition. Regardless of the social standing of the settler, from the lowest to the highest ranks, it is obvious that their appearance in these very early years was an imitation of that at home. The British impact on clothing is verified by the occurrence of British fashions, eg, crinolines, bustles and a variety of furs and silks, as well as the resemblance between colonial and British surviving costumes. The similarity between some surviving clothing in Western Australian collections and clothing in British collections (Museum of Costumes, Bath, Victoria and Albert Museum, London etc) is significant. The British influence in the colony is also evidenced by various eccentric fashions, such as, exotic animal embellishments on hats, bonnets and boas. The extreme between the sobriety of men's clothing and the extravagance of women's clothing also reflects the British influence. British codes of dress were also maintained in the new colony as a civilising force. As colonisers, the British saw themselves as bringing civilisation to primitive cultures and clothing, and particular styles of dress were seen as a civilising force.

However, the British influence on colonial clothing is a complex issue which must be understood in context. For example, on the one hand, colonial clothing was similar to the existing English clothing in patterns and styles, while on the other hand, it was different in having less decoration and colour. Also, while the early colonists followed European styles, every surviving costume in Western Australia was constructed of softer and more light-weight fabric. The Western Australian climate and the pioneer lifestyle forced colonists to wear washable and hard-wearing clothing and the heat forced them to wear light-weight fabrics.

Climate and environment also influenced the development of unique bushman/outback clothing. As explained in Chapter 2, rough, durable and casual bushman's clothing was derived from working-class clothing. It was well suited to colonial climatic conditions but quite distinctive from traditional British rural clothing such as smocks. Outback male clothing therefore demarcates rural and urban clothing culture in the colony. However, rural women's clothing tended to maintain current fashions, but were made from more durable fabrics. Photographs

320

of women in rural areas often show them wearing fashionable crinolines, bustles, shawls, gloves, scarves and bonnets/hats.

'Uniqueness' is a problematic term to interpret and requires definition in the context of Western Australia. As Western Australian colonists dressed according to the British practice, the emergence of unique qualities of Western Australian attire is a delicate transition and it indicates the emerging differences and significance of two distinct societies (Britain and Western Australia). However, this divergence can be seen as distinctiveness. Colonial uniqueness was augmented by frequent shortages of supplies/imports which required clothing to be hard wearing in the harsh conditions. The new life style, where servants and labourers were not always available or could be afforded and work was done by the land owners themselves, added to this uniqueness in that pioneer landowners of both sexes needed clothing for everyday labour.

The traces oflndian and French fashions are visible in the clothing evidence. However, these fashion preferences cannot be perceived as an acceptance of foreign fashion elements, but more as an exotic embellishment of prevailing British fashions. Nor is there any evidence to suggest that different ethnic groups in Western Australia influenced colonial clothing. Therefore, the uniqueness of Western Australian colonial clothing was based on the adaptation of British styles.

The contribution of colonial newspapers to clothing and fashion was also significant as they advertised the latest fashion news from Britain and Europe, available fabric supplies and sewing instructions which allowed dressmakers to make up the garments. The interpretation of these fashions was enhanced with the seasonal differences in the southern hemisphere. In the Wes tern Australian winter season, England experienced its summer, however, the journey between England and Australia took six to eight months. It was possible for European seasonal fashions to be current in Western Australia and therefore the chronological evolution of fashion in colonial Western Australia was consistent with Victorian fashions in Britain, Europe and other colonies.

The major social impact on Western Australian clothing was the identification of an individuals cultural place in society, while the major geographical impact was the use of climate-friendly light weight fabrics which were washable and hard-wearing.

321

To what extent does Western Australian colonial clothing reflect the social structure, standing and inheritance of Victorian Britain ?

In addressing the above research question, the thesis shows that early colonists practiced their inherited traditions, including clothing, in the new country. The majority of the colonial population throughout the nineteenth century were of British descent, therefore, British influence in colonial Western Australia was unavoidable. However, colonial uniqueness was evident when compared with the British social practice. For example, classes and gentility were defined and understood differently, primarily because of the non-aristocratic origins of the colonial gentry. In the pioneering period, the colonial gentry maintained and behaved differently compared with their British counterparts, for example, they laboured alongside their inferiors for survival. It was only in leisure activities and associated clothing that the gentry distinguished themselves from the lower-classes. In leisure activities such as sports, balls etc, their special clothing separated the appearance of the upper-classes from the majority of the lower-classes which consisted oflabourers and convicts. Additionally, as Chapter 2 shows, imitating British fashion was one of the strategies used by the colonial upper-classes to maintain their social superiority, because wearing British fashion attracted more respectability. As explained in Chapter 2 and Chapter 3, colonists' attention to behaviour and dress was sometimes overdone and excessive compared with Britain. For example, colonist Fanny Bussell went to greater lengths than in England to preserve the correct appearance. 93 1 This might be attributable to the difficulty in getting resources to maintain the appropriate style or may be the influence of colonists seeing themselves as a civilising force in a new environment.

Colonial Western Australian class structure was established on an economic basis rather than on inheritance, but it resulted in the same distinctions in social and clothing behaviours as in Britain. As shown in Chapter I and Chapter 2, the colonial merchant-class succeeded in raising its social status by imitating upper-class fashion and behaviour. Similar to European practice, conspicuous consumption was a symbol of status in the colony, however, it was tempered by availability and the colonial environment. Therefore, distance from England also played a vital role in the availability of clothing supplies for the first generation of colonial migrants.

93 1Clark, P and Spender, D. 1 992, Life Lines: Australian Women 's Letters and Diaries 1 788 to 1840, Allen and Unwin, Sydney. pp. 18-19

322

Thus, in spite of its uniqueness, colonial clothing differentiated class just as it had done in Britain. In the early pioneering era, the upper-classes aspired towards preserving a gentility which resembled Britain, regardless of the harsh climate and scarcity of supplies. But during the latter part of the century, although colonists dressed according to British styles and fashions, colonial clothing was hardly ' identical' to British clothing in terms of decoration, materials and presentation. Instead, it reflected a subtle mutation in the context of social development. Therefore, the challenges of the new environment gradually produced a new civilisation and new clothing behaviour.

As explained in Chapter 3, colonial upper-classes were determined to maintain their status through clothing and fashion. However, colonial visitors, such as, Twopeny and Aspinall, frequently described different views, as evident in the following statements: "Colonial appearance is not one-sixth as strong as in England"932, "The older his coat, and the dirtier his shirt, the more the possibilities are in favour of the millionaire"933 and "Ordinary people wore very glossy coats", 934 showing some contradiction in the findings of this study.

The above comments primarily focused on the Eastern colonies, eg, New South Wales and Victoria and need to be considered in the context of the differences between colonisation in Eastern and Western Australia in the nineteenth century. For example, the Western Australian colony was established approximately forty years after the initial Eastern settlement and was originally limited to migration as a crown colony rather than as a penal colony like Botany Bay or Port Arthur. Hence the settlement was more orderly, planned and attracted a different sort of settler, that is, one who was possibly more willing to maintain his British heritage.

Poverty in every facet of colonial life is well documented. On the other hand, there are many accounts of colonial life which recount dressing-up for balls, parties, regattas, picnics etc which show no evidence of poverty. However, as reported throughout this thesis, colonial lower-classes generally experienced greater hardship than their superiors. But, Twopeny935 and Punch 1850 both claimed working-class [in the Eastern colonies] were better dressed and lived better than their British counterparts. This contradiction needs to be acknowledged because it is indicative of the complexity and diversity of the Western Australian colony, indicating its uniqueness and also questioning its egalitarianism.

932Twopeny, R. 1976, Town Life in Australia 1883, Penguin Books, Melbourne. pp. 111 933Twopeny, R. 1 976, Town Life in Australia 1883, Penguin Books, Melbourne. pp. 74-79 934 Aspinall, C. 1862, Three Years in Melbourne 1858-1862, L. Booth, London. pp. 33-35 935Twopeny, R. 1976, Town Life in Australia 1883, Penguin Books, Melbourne. pp. 71

323

The difficulties in defining social difference through appearance in the colonial context must be noted. Although the traditional cultural practices in the nineteenth century were applicable to the colonial society, accounts such as the above, generate a somewhat confused picture of colonial dress code, primarily because of the indefinable nature of social structure, economic and climatic environment. Therefore, it was not easy to determine class through dress code alone in the colony.

As explained in Chapter 3, contrary to colonists' efforts to imitate British inheritance, there were many accounts pinpointing their failure to do so. For example, the differences between the colonists and the British, ie, Charlotte Bussell's accounts of colonial-born women as second-class to British women, and Rev. Wollaston' s accounts of colonial-born settlers' vulgar behaviour etc, suggesting colonists were not quite successful in transforming their traditions in the new land.

Therefore, in response to the above research question, Western Australian colonial clothing does reflect the social structure, standing and inheritance of Victorian Britain. But not to the same extent, because the colonial social structure (based on wealth rather than inheritance) was not as easily determined as in Britain.

How did the industry of clothing, resources and materials impact on the consumption of clothing in colonial Western Australia?

There are very few references to clothing and clothing materials in the economic literature of Western Australia of the time. Nevertheless, clothing and its related industries were fundamental in developing colonial economy. Therefore, clothing, resources and materials had a considerable impact on the colony. Throughout the nineteenth century, importation was the main access to clothing. From 1829-1900, approximately twenty to twenty-five per-cent of total imports; approximately one quarter of the entire imports (from approximately twenty different countries) were clothing and clothing materials. These figures provide evidence of the importance of clothing in the local economy. Also, as explained in Chapter 2, imported clothing assisted European/British influence in colonial appearance. The emergence of the economically powerful merchant-class during the latter part of the century was pivotal in this development. In colonial Western Australian society, economic success became the basis for social status and successful colonists' wanted to clothe themselves and their employees appropriately. For centuries in Britain and Europe, clothing had been used td iinpose particular social identities and this form of social control was also evident id the Western Australian colony through the

324

importation of working-class clothing which maintained social distinction and social boundaries. Traditional forms of working-class clothing, ie, slops, dungarees, were in use throughout nineteenth-century Western Australia, along with new forms such as denim overalls and jeans.

As explained in Chapter 4, evidenced in personal correspondence and judging from newspaper advertisements, current fashions were not readily available in the colony. Irregular supplies and the lack of shops in the pioneering era meant that colonists often requested that clothing to be sent from Britain by relatives, providing an additional means of clothing importation. Therefore, it is likely that fashion-conscious colonists relied on their relatives and friends in England for their fashion supplies. As the economic environment of the colony developed, however, so did the nature of shopping. Clothing in the pioneering era had been sold by small shop keepers, importers, general drapers, hawkers and tailoring establishments, while in the later years department stores were established in Perth and major rural centres. Evidence from clothing suppliers, such as, shops, hawkers, tailors, department stores etc, show much about colonial forms of dress, because the merchandise characterised settlers' taste and determined their requirements. Also, colonial employers provided clothing for their workers indicating their control over the access and choice of clothing for the lower-classes. By the latter part of the nineteenth century, according to advertisements, colonists were offered fashionable clothing regardless of their status and class, suggesting new patterns of clothing behaviour in the colony. Moreover, with the development of the local clothing industry, clothing importation declined. Imported clothing, especially in the first twenty years of the settlement, was mainly second-hand. However, as the trades and skills in the colony developed, this too declined while fabric imports expanded. Technological advancements in clothing manufacture also impacted on the economics of the colony. For example, the introduction of the sewing machine caused considerable expansion in the clothing industry.

Therefore, in response to the above research question, as the colony developed, social structure did change as a reflection of the development of the local economy which made clothing readily available for all classes of society.

325

Did colonial clothing negotiate gender boundaries in the nineteenth century?

Dress and associated behaviours are gendered cultural practices which were understood by every social class in the nineteenth century. Colonial Western Australian society, like British society, developed on traditional gender boundaries, and this is particularly in evidence in colonial clothing.

Religious behaviours in particular reflected gender consciousness in the colonial society. Therefore, similar to British practice, clothing followed theological guidelines, ie, patriarchy. In the patriarchal colonial society, conspicuous consumption enabled women to be the ultimate display of men and their status. In contrast to the relatively constant fashions of men, women's fashions exhibited mobility. Thus, in the nineteenth century, fashion became a female concern and in doing so reinforced male hegemony. Uniformity in male attire of the period helped to conceal class distinction. Conservative and static male dress suggested male public status and power in colonial society. Although. dress for men in colonial Western Australia was similar to that worn in Britain, there were subtle unique characteristics, eg, changing appearance was evident in male clothing from the late nineteenth century as sub groups with distinct social orientation, ie, bushmen and squatters, invented new styles to accommodate the environment and climate. However, while male clothing became more simple, women's dress was required to reflect status, but decorative female attire also reflected women's subordination and dependence. Therefore, as in Britain, womens' clothing of the period came to designate both social position and gender subordination as well as signifying wealth.

In the first few decades of the colony, there was little reliable evidence in terms of male clothing. There were only a few photographs, personal correspondence, advertisements and little surviving clothing. In analysing male clothing, the limitations of these sources need to be noted. According to many surviving photographs, colonial urban male dress throughout the nineteenth century was a replication of European styles. However, similar to women's surviving clothing, most men's surviving clothing was made from climate-friendly materials. Therefore, as explained in Chapter 2, these variations had more to do with climatic conditions in the colony. Colonial male dress is a contentious issue because on one hand, as explained in Chapters 2 and 3, it indicates the status of the wearer and on the other hand it can be seen as free from social differences, reflecting colonial egalitarianism.

326

As explained in Chapter 4, investigation of cutting instructions has shown that the basic cut of men's and women's dress changed little throughout the nineteenth century. Although female fashion styles encountered variations, ie, full and narrow skirts, high and low waistlines, different shoulder lines etc, skirts were still ankle-length.

Nineteenth-century apparel was not only for protecting the body, but also for protecting respectability. As everyday life embraced increasing leisure, women were only allowed to 'play' within the limited boundaries which confirmed the superiority of men. Thus, there was no sign of dress reform for women in the direction of practical, healthy or comfortable clothing in the colony, and no evidence of bloomer-style clothing, for example, because it would have subverted gender differences.

The Western Australian colony as a part of the British Empire and Western Australian inhabitants as mainly of British descent suggests the possible influence of the nineteenth century ideologies, such as, industrial revolution (sewing machine, clothing/textile manufacturing technology), feminism (women were often forced into work situations unavailable to those in Britain) and nationalism (ie, outback clothing, difference between colonial-born and British-born).

Therefore, in response to the above research question, colonial clothing did negotiate gender boundaries in the nineteenth century.

Is the chronological evolution of fashion in colonial Western Australia consistent with the concurrent fashions in Britain and other Australian colonies?

The chronological evolution of fashion in the Western Australian colony was in accordance with European, especially British fashions, at the time. As discussed in Chapter 2, the contribution of the media, seasonal differences between Britain and the colony, and the settlers' own British inheritance enhanced the importation and imitation of British and European styles.

However, colonial dress has inherent equivocacy in terms of colour. Although much personal correspondence refers to dark coloured clothing and materials (Chapter 2), the colours of surviving costumes varied. Many dresses for special occasions, particularly leisure wear were made from bright-coloured silks, satins and brocades in pinks, yellows, purples, blues and reds, along with many other colours, ie, grey, brown etc. Little surviving clothing reflects the colonists' request

327

for dark colours which would not show the dirt. These were everyday clothes and subject to considerable wear and tear, hence they have not survived and not valued in the same way as special gowns etc.

The significant difference when comparing surviving clothing in Western Australian collections and clothing in British collections, is the lack of decoration in colonial dress, primarily caused by the lack of supplies, and by the need to accommodate the harsh living conditions and climate.

The history of clothing of the lower-classes in the colony is difficult to ascertain because of the lack of evidence, ie, surviving costumes, personal correspondence and information relating to their living conditions. However, generalised descriptions such as those of colonial poverty, import records and some wealthy colonists' personal correspondence helps to form a picture of their possible clothing and appearance. The providing of clothing by employers leading to cheap clothing, special labourers' clothing and discarded clothing from the wealthy.

As in Britain, colonial recreational clothing, ie, sports clothing for riding, cycling, was an extension of existing clothing variations, ie, morning, visiting, night, travelling clothes etc. Leisure required special purpose clothing but also displayed the wearers' status and wealth, particularly for women, whose sporting clothing only varied marginally from their everyday clothes. So not only was having leisure time a marker of wealth and success, but having the special clothing for leisure was also indicative of affluence and higher class status.

Interpretation of the findings in terms of Veblen's and Simmel's theories

Veblen has closely scrutinised women's dress and its social significance. His notion of conspicuousness in the context of appearance operates dichotomically. First, to exhibit the pecuniary power and prestige of the men, secondly, to show the wealth and success of their husbands and fathers. Veblen's leisure theory maintains that conspicuous consumption or spending for the sake of prestige stems from people choosing their clothing to exhibit their status. Leisure in the nineteenth century was regarded as a symbol of social status. The leisure class were exempt from work and their fashionable appearance indicated that exception. Veblen's leisure theory goes beyond fashion, to all forms of social transmission and change, wherever there emerges not only the need to inform to others of one's own status, but also the need to distinguish oneself from other levels of society.

328

Just as in England, consumption in the colony was not only a matter of satisfying needs, but also an opportunity to enhance social status. For Veblen, conspicuous expenditure also indicate the idleness of the woman-wearer. Therefore, many articles of dress, ie, long skirts, corsets, bustles etc, hindered physical activity. However, in spite of this, colonists rarely escaped laborious work and colonial women followed harsh protocols regardless of their class. Nonetheless, "the high heel, the skirt, the bonnet and the corset, and the general disregard of the wearers' comfort, were maintained as the features of civilised women's apparel."936

Veblen explains that "At the stage of economic development at which women were still in the full sense of property of the men, the performance of conspicuous leisure and consumption came to be part of the services required of them. "937

However, in the colonial context, this was not tenable. Since, although colonial women were regarded as chattels of a men's wealth, unlike British society, colonial women worked alongside their husbands and experienced the same hardships. Most colonial fashion advertisements focused on the upper-classes in the knowledge that as the leisure theory explains, "conspicuous consumption enhanced social status, rather than providing needs. "938 However, although consuming for status was practised in colonial society, it was moderated by colonial conditions such as availability and lifestyle. As explained in Veblen's theory, the aspirations of the upper-class were further strengthened by adopting foreign styles and ideas. In relation to colonial Western Australia, this notion of application reinforced with French and Indian fashions and styles imports throughout the nineteenth century. Simmel's fashion simulation theory advocates a 'trickle-down' process of fashion whereby styles that are first exhibited by the upper-class and are later imitated by the lower-classes. This is followed by fashion change in the upper-classes which enables those classes to maintain their distinction. Thus, fashion which reflects the wearers' class is both a form of social imitation and a product of class distinction. 939 Although the process of the trickling-down is not really structurally different in any given society, the extent of the distinction (or end result) can vary, because of characteristics such as population, economic status and the social

936veblen, T. 1899, The Theory of the Leisure Class, Unwin Books, London. pp. 127

937Veblen, T. 1899, The Theory of the Leisure Class, Unwin Books, London. pp. 180-182 938Veblen, T. 1899, The Theory of the Leisure Class, Unwin Books, London. pp. 64-121 939simme1 G. 1957, 'Fashion ', American Journal of Sociology, Reprinted from International

Quarterly 10 ( 1904), pp. 541-558

329

structure. However, applied to the colonial context, the trickling-down process in the colony was somewhat different. Whilst there is little evidence of any trickling-down through the class system especially in the early years, the trickling-down of styles from Britain to the colony was significant. This was clearly caused by the maintaining of British social customs and traditions in the colony. The less extensive trickling-down process within the colony may have been due to the non-aristocratic upper-class, or the relatively less rigid social stratification. It would also have been modified by availability, resources, skills and money.

In accordance with Simmel's claim of the role of fashion in both individual differentiation and social equalisation, colonial fashion also centred on particular classes and mediated class difference. From the late-nineteenth century, every class in colonial society had greater access to fashionable clothing because of commercialisation. However, while access to fashion was not restricted to the privileged classes, the lower-classes' access was determined by their economic situation.

The Simm el' s notion that creators of styles always come from the upper-classes 940

has been contested in this thesis. For example, outback, ie, bushmen's and squatters' attire originated from humble, perhaps poverty-stricken colonists who needed appropriate clothing. This type of clothing was determined by the need for washable, comfortable and durable garments rather than by social status.

The applicability of Veblen's leisure theory and Simmel's trickle-down theory for analysing clothing in colonial Western Australia has been examined in this study. These Eurocentric theoretical models are appropriate for discussing clothing, especially in the early years of the colony. However, when the century progressed, those models do not necessarily match (although applicable), primarily because of differences between colonial and British society. Also, as class barriers weakened and wealth increased, the traditional hierarchy began to break down, leaving every man/woman free to dress as well as they could afford. For example,

As Veblen explains, "Sport, is one of the social ways in which the upper-class finds prestige and personal status."941 However, by the latter part of the nineteenth century, sport became more accessible to the lower-classes and, therefore, the status associated with leisure activity had lessened.

940simmel G. 1 957, 'Fashion ', American Journal of Sociology, Reprinted from International Quarterly 10 ( 1904), pp. 541-558

941Veblen, T. 1899, The Theory of the Leisure Class, Unwin Books, London.

330

For men, dress was becoming a less effective assertion of wealth and prestige, since the better earnings of the lower-classes and the growth of mass production enabled them to wear imitations of the costly garments of the upper-classes. On the other hand, as seen on several occasions, the men's fashions had changed in the direction of austerity. For example, during the French Revolution, this change was more or less transitory, but with the Industrial Revolution it became almost permanent. Also, by the early 1890s, the crinoline and the bustle had almost disappeared, because of women's increased interest in work and leisure, particularly sport, where it is obviously too much of a hindrance.

In analysing the early (1829-1850) and late (1850-1900) colonial society, the study shows, Western Australia as a society where lower-classes became stronger challenging the traditional patterns of fashionable dressing of the privileged. With increased education, especially literacy, more people had access to press and advertising. Also, with the mass production of clothing, patterns and sewing machines, people gradually started to follow fashion not only to imitate their social superiors, but also to capture the mood of the times. So fashion no longer served the purpose of class differentiation. Therefore, by the late twentieth century, the trickle-down concept has completely changed to a collective concept with no class distinction. Clothing has become a means of expressing personal and group identity rather than social status.

Not only has this thesis been able to apply Veblen's and Simmel's theory but it has followed through to demonstrate the beginning of a breakdown of the theory as it would be applied today.

The application of Simmel' s Trickle-down theory is also moderated in this study by economic resources, isolation and hardship in the beginning but enhanced by later economic development. In the later period, more skilled dressmakers and tailors, newspapers became established to advertise fashion and styles and department stores making clothing available, facilitating the trickle-down from Britain to the colony. Moreover, with steam ships the time to receive goods, fashion magazines and patterns etc was considerably shorter, so would have speeded up the trickle-down process.

33 1

Great Britain/Europe

1 829-1 860

1 860-1 900

Colonia l e lite

Controll ed trade/ workers' clothing

Nevvspapers/ Advertisements/

Fabric resources/Skilled

tailors &

......

I ...... CD 0 0

1 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - � I I

I I

I

Increased wealth and leisure ti me, especi ally after th e 1850s , leading

to conspicuous consumerism.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - .- - - -' I

_ _ _ _1' _ _ _ _ _ _ _

Colonia l

Lower-classes

Until the 1 860s, the lower­classes had no control over

their clothing. They had to rel y o n what was im ported by m erchants and what they

could afford.

"C Q) :Si: u ·;:

These two theories (Veblen's Leisure Theory and Simmel's Trickle-down Theory) complemented each other at this point. The increased leisure time and expenditure would have resulted in more clothing being passed down to the poor and servants. This too speeds up the trickle-down process between classes.

As shown, the trickle-down process in the colony was determined by class and economics. This is also interconnected with the Leisure Theory, in that, increased wealth translated as extra expenditure and leisure time which also affected the trickle-down process.

332

This thesis is an invitation to researchers to take the topic of fashion seriously. The thesis has only looked at nineteenth-century clothing in Western Australia. The study points to two directions for future research. First, further research should reach beyond the colonial era, and secondly, there is a need for further inquiry into the children's clothing, Aboriginal clothing, out-back/bush clothing, ethnic clothing, occupational clothing, leisure clothing and charity clothing.

As explained in Chapter 2 and Chapter 3, colonial social conventions, ie, status as manifested in demeanour, dress and appearance was demonstrated by women, as in Britain. To a large extent, colonial women's clothing remained relatively unaffected by the structural changes in society. Nonetheless, colonial clothing, especially the prevailing fashion, also produced dynamic relationships between imitation and distinction, universality and particularity, submission and sense of power, femininity and masculinity, and stillness and movement. As in Britain, colonial dress also symbolised ties to specific groups such as occupation and religion.

333

Bibliography

Primary Sources

Official Records - published Census of Western Australia. 1834-1911 Commonwealth Census of Australia, 1911 Statistical Register of Western Australia Western Australian Blue Books Western Australian Government Gazette Western Australian Year Books The Western Australian Almanac and Commercial Directory 1853-1866 Post Office Directories 1893-1894 British Parliamentary Papers

Official Records - unpublished Colonial Secretary's Office Records - Western Australian State Archives Governor's Despatches - Western Australian State Archives Comptroller General's Despatches - Western Australian State Archives Swan River Papers Volume 1-16 - Western Australian State Archives

Personal Correspondence - Published

Aspinall, C. 1862, Three Years in Melbourne 1858-1862, L. Booth, London. Bolton, G. C. & Vose, H. 1991, Wollaston 's Picton Journals vol. 1:

1841-1842, University of Western Australia Press, Perth. Bolton, G. C. & Vose, H. 1991, Wollaston 's Picton Journals vol. 2:

1842-1844, University of Western Australia Press, Perth. Broom, Lady. 1904, Colonial Memories, Smith, Elder & Co., London. Byrne, G. 1981, Valiant Women: Letters.from the Foundation Sisters of Mercy

in Western Australia 1845-1849, The Dominion Press, Melbourne. Burton, C. A 1975, Wollaston's Picton Journal (1841-1844), University

of Western Australia Press, Perth. Burton, C. A 1975, Wollaston 's Albany Journals Kept by Rev. J. R.

Wollaston, University of Western Australia Press, Perth. Chesterfield, P. D. S. 1929, Lord Chesterfield 's Letters to His Son and Others,

Dent, London. Courtney, V.1956, All I May Tell: A Journalists Story, Shakespeare Head

Press, London.

334

Durack, M. 1976, To Be Heirs Forever, Constable, London. Fremantle, C. H. 1829, Diary and Letters of Admiral Sir. C. H. Fremantle:

GCB Relating to the Founding of the Colony of Western Australia 1829, Hazell, Watson and Viey, London.

Gilmore, M. 1935, More Recollections, Angus & Robertson, Sydney. Millett, E. 1980, An Australian Parsonage or the Settler and the Savage in

Western Australia, University of Western Australia Press, Perth. Moore, G. F. 1884, Diary of Ten Years: Eventful Life of an Early Settler in

Western Australia, M Walbrook, London. Niall, B. & Thompson, J. (eds) 1998, The Oxford Book of Australian Letters,

Oxford University Press, Melbourne. Owen, W. L. 1984, Cossack Gold: The Chronicle of an Early Goldfields

Warden, Hesperian Press, Perth. Price, J. M. 1896, The Land of Gold: Narrative of a Journey Through the

Western Australian Gold Fields in the Autumn of 1895, Sampson Low, Marston & Co, London.

Reilly, J. T. 1903, Reminiscences of Fifty Years Residence in Western Australia, Sands and McDougall, Perth.

Statham, P. 1981, The Tanner Letters: A Pioneer Saga of Swan River and Tasmania, 1831-1845, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Taunton, H. 1903, Australind: Wandering in Western Australia and the Malay East, Edward Arnold, London.

Vivienne, M. 1901, Travels in Western Australia, William Heinemann, London.

Wakefield, E. G. A Letter from Sydney, Everyman Edition, London. Webby, E. 1989, Colonial Voices: Letters, Diaries, Journalism, Non-fiction

from 19th Century Australia, University of Queensland Press, Queensland.

Personal Correspondence - Unpublished

Manuscripts: Battye Library Collection

Ommanney family Papers: ACC 604A, ACC 2553A, ACC 5566A, ACC 5591A, ACC 5721A

Bussell Family Papers: ACC 1188A, ACC 590A, ACC 704A, ACC 1108A, ACC 1415A, ACC 294A, ACC 302A, ACC 303A, ACC 337A, ACC 349A, ACC 350A, ACC 1008A Molloy Family Papers (Diaries and Letters):

335

ACC 501A, ACC 2877A, ACC 501Nl, ACC 2553A, ACC 3278A, ACC 227A, ACC 1959A,

Captain James Mangles' Papers: ACC 479A, ACC 521 lA, ACC 5213A

Thomas Henty Letters and Documents : PR 76, b. 18951636, ACC 1598A, ACC 597A

Shaw family Letters : ACC 614A, ACC 1062A, ACC 1215A

Clifton Papers : B/CLI, ACC 271 lA

Forrest Correspondences and Notes : ACC 766A

Moore Family Papers : ACC1075A

Princep Diaries : ACC 499A

Convict Diaries : ACC 2816A

Letters from Mrs. Elizabeth Shaw to her daughter 1062N15

A. C. McDermott Letters 1062Nl 5

Western Australian Newspapers and Periodicals 1833-1914 Perth Gazette from 05 January 1833 to 14 November 1879 The Inquirer from 19 August 1840 The West Australian from 18 November 1879 Eastern District Chronicle from 1877 to 1926 Victorian Express (Geraldton) from 1878 Albany Advertiser from 1883

336

Geraldton Advertiser from 1893 The Western Mail from 1885 to 1955 West Australian Times from 01 October 1863 to 29 September 1864 The Record Catholic Newspaper WA Bulletin from 1880 The Herald from 1867 to 1901 Northam Advertiser from 1895 to 1956 Central Districts Advertiser and Agriculture and Mining Journal from

1893-1895 The New Castle Herald from 1902 to 1912 Toodyay District Chronicle from 1902 to 1912 The Swan River Guardian from 1836 to 1838

Non-literary Primary Sources Surviving Costumes and Photographs:

Royal Western Australian Historical Society Albany Historical Society Swan-Guildford Historical Society York Historical Society Mount Barker Historical Society Old Gaol Museum in Toodyay Mount Barker Museum Patrick Taylor Museum in Albany Strawberry Hills Museum in Albany Old Butter Factory Museum in Busselton Museum of Western Australia Heritage Museum in Fremantle Museum Of Childhood in Claremont King Cottage Museum in Bunbury Subiaco Museum Art Gallery of Western Australia Museum of Costume, Bath, England Victoria & Albert Museum, London The British Museum, London

337

Secondary Sources

Books:

Adams, D. (ed) 1984, Non-Government Schooling in Western Australia 1829-1903: Historical Documents of Western Australian Education, Western Australian Institute of Technology, Bentley.

Adburgham, A. 1981, Shops and Shopping 1800-1914, George Allen and Unwin, London.

Alford, K. 1984, Production and Reproduction: An Economic History of Women in Australia, 1 788-1850, Oxford University Press, London.

Appleyard, R. T. & Manford, T. 1979, The Beginning: European Discovery and Early Settlement of Swan River Western Australia, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Arnold, J. 1973, A Handbook of Costume, Macmillan, New York.

Aspin, C. 1987, The Cotton Industry, Shire Publications, Haverfordwest.

Austin, T. 1996, Western Austmlia in Pictures from the Colonial Era to the Present, St. George Books, Perth.

Aveling, M. 1979, Westralian Voices: Documents in Western Australian Social History, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Backhouse, J. 1967, A Narrative of a Visit to the Australian Colonies, Hamilton, Adams & Company, London.

Bailey, P. 1998, Popular Culture and Performance in the Victorian City, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.

Bailey, P. 1978, Leisure and Class in Victorian England: Rational Recreation and the Contest for Control 1830-1885, Routledge and Kegan Paul, University of Torento Press, London.

Bain, M. A. 1996, A Life of its Own: Social and Economic History of the City of Geraldton and the Shire of Greenough 1846-1988, Frank Daniels Ltd, Perth.

Bain, M. A. 1911, Ancient Landmarks: A Social and Economic History of the Victoria District of Western Australia, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

338

Bann, S, 1984, The Clothing of Clio: A Study of the Representation of History in Nineteenth Century Britain and France, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.

Barfoot, A. 1961, Everyday Costume in Britain; from the Earliest Time to 1900, B. T. Batsford Ltd, London.

Barker, A. J. and Laurie, M.1992, Excellent Connections: Bunbury 1836-1990, City ofBunbury Press, Bunbury.

Barnard, M. 1996, Fashion as Communication, Routledge, London, New York.

Barns, R. & Eicher, J. B. (eds) 1992, Dress and Gender: Making and meaning, Oxford University Press, New York.

Barsis, M. 1973, The Common Man Through the Centuries, Federick Unger Publishing Co, New York.

Barthes, R. 1957, Mythologies, Jonathan Cape Ltd, London.

Barthes, R. 1964, Elements of Semiology, Hill and Wang, New York.

Bartlett, C. J. (ed) 1969, Britain Pre-eminent, St. Martins Press, New York.

Barwick, S. 1984, A Country of Rules, George, Allen & Unwin, London.

Basbery, B. L. 1993, Whaling and History: Perspective on the Evolution of the History, Sandefjordmuseene, Sandefjord.

Bassett, M. 1955, The Hentys: An Australian Colonial Tapestry, Melbourne University Press, Melbourne.

Bateson, C. 1969, The Convict Ships 1 787-1868, Brown Son & Ferguson Ltd, London.

Battye, J. S. 1924, Western Australia: A History from its Discovery to the Inauguration of the Commonwealth, Oxford Press, London.

Beauvior, S. De. 1972, The Second Sex, Jonathan Cape, London.

Beiseker, T. D. & Parson, W. D. (eds) 1972, The Process of Social Influence, Prentice Hall, New Jersey.

Bell, Q. 1976, On Human Finery, The Hogarth Press, London.

Bennett, A. L. 1981,The Glittering Years: Kalgoorlie and Boulder, St. Georges Books, Perth.

339

Bennett, A. L. 1982, Dryblower Murphy: His Lffe and Times, Fremantle Arts Centre Press, Perth.

Benstock, S. & Ferris, S. (eds) 1994, On Fashion, New Brunswick, Rutgers University Press, New Jersey.

Berger, J. 1972, Ways of Seeing, Viking Press, New York.

Bernier, F. 1891, 1968, 1972, Travels in the Mogol Empire A.D. 1656-1668, S Chand & Co Ltd, New Delhi.

Berryman, I. (ed) 1979, The First Census of Western Australia 1832, Creative Research, Perth.

Bierstegt, R. 197 4, Power and Progress: Essays in Sociological Theory, McGraw-Hill Books, London.

Bigelow, M. S. 1979, Fashion in History: Western Dress Prehistoric and Present, Burgess Publishing Company, New York.

Binder, P. 1958, The Peacock Tail, George E Harrap, London.

Birren, F. 1950, Colour Psychology and Colour Therapy, McGraw Hills Book Company, New York, Toronto.

Black, J. and Macrailed, D. M. 1997, Studding History, Macmillan Press, London.

Black, D. 1991, The House on the Hill: A History of the Parliament in Western Australia 1832-1990, Parliament of Western Australia, Perth.

Blackburn, G. 1993, The Children 's Friend Society, Access Press, Western Australia.

Blainey, G. 1968, The Tyranny of Distance, St. Martins Press, New York.

Bligh, A. C. V. 1958, The Golden Quest, Hesperian Press, Carlisle.

Blum, S. 1974, Victorian Fashions and Costumes from Harper 's Bazar 1867-1898, Dover Publications, New York.

Blumer, H. 1990, Industrialisation as an Agent of Social Change: A Critical Analysis, Walter de Gruyter Inc., New York

Bolton, G. C. 1972, A Fine Country to Starve in, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Bolton, G. C. 1981, Spoils and Spoilers, George, Allen and Unwin, Sydney.

340

Bosworth, M. 1988, Australian Lives: A History of Clothing, Food and Domestic Technology, Thomas Nelson, Melbourne.

Boucher, F. 1966, A History of Costume in the West, Thames and Hudson, London.

Boulnois, L. 1966, The Silk Road, George Allen & Unwin, London.

Bourdieu, P. 1998, Practical Reason: On the Theory of Action, Polity Press, Cambridge.

Boudreau, F. A, Sennott, R. S. & Wilso, M. 1986, Sex Roles and Social Patterns, Piaeger, New York.

Bourke, D. F. 1979, The History �f the Catholic Church in Western Australia, Vanguard Services Print, John Street, Perth.

Bourke, M. J. 1987, On the Swan: A History of the Swan District Western Australia, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Bourne, J. M. 1986, Patronage and Society in Nineteenth Century England, Edward Arnold Publishers, London.

Boyce, D. G. 1999, Decolonisation and The British Empire 1 775-1997, Macmillan Press, London.

Boyce, P. 1998, Migration into Rural Areas: Theories and Issues, Chicester, New York.

Braefield, N. 1938, Historical Costumes in England, George G. Harrap & Co Ltd, London.

Brassey, A 1889, The Last Voyage to India and Australia, London.

Braud el, F. 1977, Afterthoughts on Material Civilisation and Capitalism, John Hopkins University Press, Baltimore.

Briffault, R. 1959, The Mothers, Allen and Unwin, London.

Briggs, A 1988, Victorian Things, Penguin Books, New York.

Broby-Johnson, B. 1966, Clothes for the body, Faber and Faber Ltd, London.

Broby-johansen, R. 1968, Body and Clothes, Faber and Faber Limited, London.

Brogan, D. W. 1945, The English People: Impressions and Observations, Hamish Hamilton, London.

341

Brooke, I. 1 979, A History of English Costume, Eyre Methuen, London.

Brown, P. 1 996, The Merchant Princes of Fremantle, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Brydon, A & Niessen, S. (eds) 1 998, Consuming Fashion: Adorning the Transnational Body, Berg, New York.

Buck, A M. 1961 , Victorian Costume and Costume Accessories, Herbert Jenkins, London.

Buckley, J. H. 1 966, The Triumph of Time: A Study of the Victorian Concepts of Time, History, Progress, and Decadence, Belknap Press, Cambridge.

Burgess, I. 1 932, Albany First White Settlement: A Town Grows, Albany Advertiser Limited, Albany.

Burgmann, V. & Lee, J. (eds) 1 988, A Most Valuable Acquisition, Penguin Books, London.

Burman, B. (ed) 1999, The Culture of Sewing: Gender, Consumption and Home Dressmaking, Berg, Oxford.

Burt, A ( ed) The Colonial Cookbook, Summit Books, Paul Hamlyn Pty Ltd, New South Wales.

Butler, J. & Scott, J. W. (eds) 1 992, Feminists Theorise the Political, Routledge, New York.

Butler, J. P. 1 990, Gender Trouble: Feminism and the Subversion of Identity, Routledge, New York.

Byrde, P. 1 979, The Male Image: Men 's Fashion in Britain 1300-1970, B. T. Batsford, London.

Byrne, J. C. 1848, Twelve Years wondering in the British Colonies.from 1835-1847, London.

Calder, M. E. 1 977, Early Swan River Colony, Rigby Ltd, Perth.

Cameron, J. M. R. & Jagard E. K. G. (eds) 1977, Western Australian Readings, Churchlands College, Perth.

Cannadine, D. 1995, The Rise and Fall of Class in Britain, Columbia University Press, New York.

Cannadine, D. 1999, Lords and Landlords: The Aristocracy and the Towns 1 774-1967, Columbia University Press, New York, Leicester.

342

Cannadine, D. 1990, The Decline and Fall of the British Aristocracy, Yale University Press, New Heaven, London.

Canning District Historical Society. 1977, The Bird family and Woodloes, Childhood recollection of Mary Cow le (Bird) and the Bird and Camshaw families by Augusta Maude Bird, Canning Council, Canning.

Cannon, M. 1973, An Australian Camera 1851-1914, David and Charles Ltd, Melbourne.

Canter Cremers-van der Does, E. 1980, The Agony of Fashion, Blandford Press, Poole, Dorset.

Canter, N. F. & Werthman, M. S.(eds) 1967, The English Tradition: Modern Studies in English History Since 1 714, The Macmillan Company, New York.

Carcopino, J. 1941, Daily Life in Ancient Rome, Penguin Books, London.

Carden, F. G. 1968, Along the Canning: A History of the Shire of Canning District, Canning City Council, Canning.

Carlyle, T. 1915, English and the Other Critical Essays, Dent, London.

Carr, E, H. 1961, What a History, Macmillan, London.

Carrington, C. (ed) 1973, The Complete Barrack Room Ballads of Rudyard Kipling, Methuen, London.

Case, S. 1988, Feminism and Theatre, Macmillan, London.

Cassin-Scott, J. 1995, An Illustrated Encyclopaedia of Costume and Fashion from 1066 to the Present, Stirling Publishing Co, New York.

Chang, C. 1974, The Chinese Gentry, University of Washington, Seatle and London.

Chapman, B. 1979, The Colonial Eye: A Typographical and Artistic Record of the Life and Landscape of West em Australia 1 798-1914, The Art Gallery of W estem Australia, Perth.

Chaucer, G. 1980, The Canterbury Tales, Arnold, London.

Chenoune, F. 1993, A History of Men 's Fashion, Flamarian, Paris, New York.

Chesterfield, P. D. S. 1929, Lord Chesterfield's Letters to His Son and Others, Dent, London.

343

Chow, R. 199 1, Women and Chinese Modernity: The Politics of Reading Between West and East, University of Minnesota Press, Minnesota.

Cigler, M. 1986, The Afghanis in Australia, A. E. Press, Melbourne. Clark, M. 198 1, A Short History of Australia, Mead and Becket Publishing,

Sydney. Clark, P and Spender, D. 1992, Life Lines: Australian Women 's Letters and

Diaries 1 788 to 1840, Allen and Unwin, Sydney. Clark, R. 1987, Hatches, Matches and Dispatches: Christening, Bridal and

Mourning Fashion, National Gallery Of Victoria, Melbourne. Clarke, P. 1886, The New Chum in Australia: The Scenery, Life and Manners of

Australians in Town and Country, J. S. Virtue and Company, London. Clubbe, J. ( ed) 1970, Selected Poems of Thomas Hood, Harvard University Press, Cambridge, Massachusetts. Coffin, J. G. 1996, The Politics of Women 's Work: The Paris Garment Trades

1 750-1915, Princeton University Press, Princeton. Colebatch, H. 1929, A Story ofa Hundred Years: Western Australia 1829-1929, Government Printer, Perth. Coleman, P. & Tanner, C. 1967, Cartoons of Australian History, Thomas Nelson,

Sydney. Coontz, S. & Henderson, P. (eds) 1986, Women 's Work, Men 's Property: The

Origin of Gender and Class, Verso, London. Corfield, P. J. (ed) 1991, Language, History and Class, Basil Blackwell, Cambridge. Coupe, R. 1986, Australia: The Photographer 's View From the Bicentenary,

Longman Cheshire Ltd, Melbourne. Court, W. H. B. 1962, A Concise Economic History of Britain from 1 750 to

Recent Times, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge. Cowan, P . 1977, Swan River Settlement: Western Australia, Fremantle Arts Centre Press, Perth. Cowan, P. (ed) 199 1, A Faithful Picture, Fremantle Arts Centre Press, Fremantle.

344

Cowan, P. 1978, A Unique Position: A Bibliography of Edith Dircksey Cowan, 1861-1932, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Cowan, P. 1988, Maitland Brown: A View of Nineteenth Century Western Australia, Fremantle Arts Centre Press, Fremantle.

Craik, J.1994, The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion, Rouledge, London.

Crane, D. 1933, Fashion and its Social Agendas: Class, Gender, and Identity in Clothing, The University of Chicago Press, Chicago and London.

Cranfield, G. A. 1978, The Press and Society from Caxton to Northcliffe, Longman, London, New York.

Crowley, F. K. 1960, Australia 's Western Third, MacMillan Ltd, London.

Crowley, T. 1996, Language in History: Theories and Texts, Routledge, London, New York.

Crowley, F. K. 1962, Western Australia 's Lady Forrest, Melbourne University Press, Melbourne.

Crowley, F. K. 1971, Forrest 1847-1918, University of Queensland Press, St. Lucia.

Cunningham, P. 1827, Two Years in New South Wales: A Series of Letters: Vol 1, Henry Colburn, London.

Cunningham, P. 1827, Two Years in New South Wales: A Series of Letters: Vol 2, Henry Colburn, London.

Cunnington, P. and Mansfield, A. 1969, English Costumes for Sports and Outdoor and Recreation from the 16th to the 19th Century, A and C Black, London.

Cunnington, P. and W. 1959, Handbook of English Costume in the Nineteenth Century, Faber and Faber, London.

Cunnington, P. & W. 1951, Costume Illustrations.from Medieval Period to 1939, Michael Joseph Ltd, London.

Cunnington, P. E. and C. W. 1938, A Dictionary of English Costumes 900-1900, Faber and Faber, London.

Cunnington, C. W. 1937, English Women 's Clothing in the Nineteenth-Century, Faber & Faber Ltd, London.

345

Cunnington, P. and Lucas, C. 1972, Costume for Births, Marriages and Deaths, A and C Black, London.

Cunnington, P. & Lucas, C. 1967, Occupational Costumes in England from the Eleventh Century to 1914, Adam and Charles Black, London.

Cunnington, P. & Lucas, C. 1978, Charity Costumes of Children, Scholars, Almsfolk, Pensioners, Adam and Charles Black, London.

Cunnington, P. 1974, Costume of Household Servants from the Middle Ages to 1900, Adam and Charles Black, London.

Cunnington, C. W. 1948, The Art of English Costume, Collins Clear Type Press, London.

Cunnington, C. W. 1948, The Perfect Lady, Max Parrish & Co., London.

Daly, J. A. 1982, Elysian Fields: Sports, Class and Community in Colonial South Australia: 1836-1890, J. A. Daly, Adelaide.

Darwin, C. 1928, On the Origin of Species, 3rd edn, Dent, London.

Daugert, S. M. 1950, The Philosophy of Thorstein Veblen, King's Crown Press, New York.

Davidoff, L. & Hall, C. 1987, Family Fortunes: Men and Women of the English Middle Class 1780-1850, Hutchinson, London.

Davidoff, L. 1973, The Best Circles: Society, Etiquette and the Season, Croom Helm, London.

Davidoff, L. 1995, World's Between: Historical Perspective on Gender and Class, Polity Press, London.

Davies, F. 1992, Fashion, Culture, and Identity, The University of Chicago Press, Chicago.

Davis, D. 1966, A History of Shopping, Routledge & Kegan Paul, London.

Deacon, J. E. 1948, A Survey of the Historical Development of the Avon Valley 1830-1850, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

De Grazia, V. ( ed) 1996, The Sex of Things: Gender and Consumption in Historical Perspective, University of California Press, California.

De Marley, D. 1986, Working Dress: A History of Occupational Clothing, B. T. Batsford, London.

346

De Marley, D. 1980, The History of Haute Coulture 1850-1950, The Anchor Press, London.

De Marley, D. 1985, Fashion for Men: An Illustrated History, B. T. Batsford, London.

De Vries-Evans, S. 1987, Pioneer Women: Pioneer Land: Yesterday Tall Poppies, Angus and Robertson, Sydney.

Dentith, S. 1998, Society and Cultural Forms in Nineteenth Century England, Macmillan Press Ltd, London.

Disher, G. 1987, Australia Then & Now, Oxford University Press, Melbourne.

Don Vann, J. & VanArsdel, R. (eds) 1996, Periodicals of Queen Victoria 's Empire: An Exploration, University of Toronto Press, Toronto.

Dufty, D. Harman, G. & Swan, K. (eds) 1973, Historians at Work: Investigating and Recreating the Past, Hicks Smith & Sons, Sydney.

Durie, A. J. (ed) 1996, The British Linen Company 1 745-1 775, Scottish History Society, Edinburgh.

Durkheim, E. 1915, The Elementary Forms of the Religious Life, George, Allen & Unwin, London.

Dutton, G. 1987, Country Life in Old Australia, Penguin Books Ltd, Melbourne.

Dyhouse, C. 1981, Girls Growing Up in Late Victorian and Edwardian England, Kegan Paul, London.

Edmond, J. 1979, Life in Western Australia Since Early Colonial Settlement, West Australian Newspapers Ltd, Perth.

Elias, N. 1991, The Symbol Theory, Sage, London.

Elton, G. R. 1967, The Practice of History, Sydney University Press, London.

Engels, F. 1986, The Origin of the Family, Private Property and the State, Penguin, Harmondsworth.

Englander, D. (ed) 1997, Britain and America: Studies in Comparative History 1 760-1970, Yale University Press.

Englander, D. & O'Day, R. (eds) Retrieved Riches: Social Investigation in Britain 1840-1914, Scholar Press, London.

347

Erickson, C. 1994, Leaving England: Essays on British Emigration in the Nineteenth Century, Cornell University Press, London.

Erickson, R. 1983, The Brand on His Coat: Biographies of Some West Australian Convicts, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Erickson, R. 1974, Old Toodyay and Newcastle, Commercial and Instant Print, Perth.

Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914 Vol 2 Bond 1850-1868, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Erickson. R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians Vol 3 Free 1868-1914, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Erickson, R. 1969, The Drummonds of Hawthornden, Lamb Patterson Pty Ltd, Perth.

Erickson, R. 1971, The Victoria Plains, Lamb Patterson Pty Ltd, Perth.

Erickson, R. 1978, The Dempsters, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Evans, M. 1982, The Woman Question: Readings on the Subordination of Women, Fontana Paperbacks, London.

Evens, N. 1985, The Last Anglian Linen Industry, Gower, Rants.

Evens, L. & Nicholls, D. (eds) 1984, Convicts and Colonial Society 1 788-1868, The Macmillan Co of Australia, Melbourne.

Ewing, E.197 4, History of Twentieth Century Fashion, B. T. Batsford, London.

Ewing, E. 1977, History of Children 's Clothing, B. T. Batsford, London.

Ewing, E. 1984, Everyday Dress 1650-1900, Anchor Brendon Ltd, London.

Ewing, E. 1981, Fur in Dress, B. T. Batsford, London.

Ewing, E. 1975, Women in Uniform Through the Centuries, B. T. Batsford, London.

Fabian, S. and Loh, M. 1980, Children in Australia, Oxford University Press, Oxford.

Fairclough, 0. & Leary, E. 1981, Textiles by William Morris and Morris & Co. 1861-1940, Thames & Hudson, London.

Featherstone, G. 1979, The Colonial Child, Excelsior Printing Pty Ltd, Victoria.

348

Finkelstein, J. 1996, After a Fashion, Melbourne University Press, Melbourne. Fishel, 0. & Boehn, M. V. 1909, Modes and Manners of the Nineteenth Century

1790-181 7, Benjamin Blom, New York. Fishel, 0. & Boehn, M. V. 1909, Modes and Manners of the Nineteenth Century

1909-1843, Benjamin Blom, New York. Flanagan, T. J. 1980, Long Term Prisoners, University Microfilm International,

London. Flanagan, T. J. 1980, Long Term Prisoners: A Study of the Characteristics,

Institutional Experience and Perspectives of Long Term Inmates in State Correctional Facilities, University Microfilm International, London.

Fletcher, B. 1976, Colonial Australia Before 1850, Thomas Nelson, London. Fletcher, M. 1984, Costume in Australia, Oxford University Press, Melbourne. Fletcher, M. 1966, Female Costumes in the Nineteenth Century, Oxford University

Press, Melbourne. Flower, C. 1984, Clothes in Australia: A Pictorial History 1 788-1980, Kangaroo Press, Sydney. Flower, C. 1968, Duck & Cabbage Tree: A Pictorial History of Clothes in

Australia 1 788-1914, Angus and Robertson, Melbourne. Flugel, J. C. 1930, The Psychology of Clothes, Hogarth Press, London. Forsyth, W. D. 1935, Governor Arthur 's Convict System: Van Diemen 's Land

1824-1836, Sydney University Press, Sydney. Foucault, M. 1972, The Archaeology of Knowledge, Tavistock Publications, London. Foucault, M. 1967, Madness and Civilisation, Tavistock Publications, London. Foucault, M. 1977, Discipline and Punish: The Birth of the Prison, Vintage

Books, New York. Fox-Davies, A. C. 1909, A Complete Guide to Heraldry, Nelson, London. Frederick, C. & Atkinson, C. 1997, Women, Ethics and the Workplace, Westport, Connecticut, London.

349

Franklin, S. 1996, The Sociology of Gender, Edward Elgar, Cheltenham, Brookfield.

Frisby, D. and Featherstone, M. (eds) 1997, Simmel on Culture, Sage Publications, London.

Fussell, G. E. 1949, The English Rural Labourer: His Home, Furniture, Clothing and Food from Tudor to Victorian Times, The Batchworth press, London.

Gabbedy, J. P. 1906, Group Settlement; Part 1, Its origins: Politics and Administration, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Gage, J. 1999, Colour and Meaning: Art, Science and Symbolism, Thames and Hudson, London.

Gallie, W. B. 1964, Philosophy ami the Historical Understanding, Chatto and Windus, London.

Gamber, W. 1997, The Female Economy: The Millinery and Dressmaking Trades 1860-1930, University of Illinios Press, Urbana, Chicago.

Garden, D. 1979, Northam and an Avon Valley History, Oxford University Press, New York.

Garden, D. S. 1977, Albany: A Panorama of the Sound from 1827, Thomas Nelson Limited, Melbourne.

Gardiner, P. 1961, The Nature of Historical Explanation, Oxford University Press, London.

Garland, M. 1970, The Changing Form of Fashion, J. M. Dent and Sons, London.

Garry, A. & Pearsall, M. (eds) 1996, Women, Knowledge, and Reality: Explorations in Feminist Philosophy, Routledge, New York.

Garvey, E. G. 1996, The Adman in the Parlour: Magazines and the Gendering of Consumer Culture 1880s to 1910s, Oxford University Press, New York.

Gawronski, D. V. 1975, History, Meaning and Method, Scott Foresman & Company, London.

Gibbs-Smith, C. H. 1960, The Fashionable Lady in the Nineteenth Century, Her Majesty's Stationary Office, London.

Gilmore, M. 1986, Old days, Old Ways: A Book of Recollections, Angus and Robertson, Sydney.

350

Gill, L. E. 1954, Advertising and Psychology, Hutchinson's University Press, London.

Gittin, J. 1981, The Diggers from China: The Story of the Chinese on the Gold.fields, Quartet Books, London.

Glover, R. 1979, Plantagenet: A History of the Shire of Plantagenet Western Australia, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Goffman, E. 1963, Stigma: Notes on the Management of a Spoiled Identity, Prentice Hall, New Jersey.

Gorsline, D. 1953, A History of Fashion: A Visual Survey of Costume from Ancient Times, Fitzehouse Books, London.

Grant, A. & Stringer, K. (eds) 1995, Uniting the Kingdom? The Making of British History, Routledge, London, New York

Green, N. J. 1961, Perth and Its People 1830-1840, Claremont Teachers College, Claremont.

Grieve, N. & Bums, N. (eds) 1986, Australian Women: New Feminist Perspective, Melbourne University Press, Melbourne.

Grose, E. & Probyn, E. 1995, Sexy Bodies: The Strange Carnalities of Feminism, Routledge, London.

Halliday, F. E. 1972, An Illustrated Cultural History of England, Thames and Hudson, London.

Halstead, J. P. 1983, The Second British Empire: Trade Philanthropy and Good Government, Greenwood Press, Connecticut, London.

Halls, Z. 1973, Coronation Costume 1685-1953, London Museum, London.

Hamlyn, P. 1986, Convict Life in Australia: An Illustrated History, Summit Books, Sydney.

Hammerton, J. 1979, Emigrant Gentlewomen: A Genteel Poverty and Female Emigration 1830-1914, Croom Helm, London.

Hammond, J. E. 1980, Western Pioneers; The Battle Well Fought, Imperial Printing Co. Hay Street, Perth.

Hammond, P. 1982, Convict Life in Australia: An Illustrated History, Summit Books, Sydney.

Harlow, B. & Carter, M. 1999, Imperialism and Orientalism, Blackwell Publishers, Massachusetts, Oxford.

351

Harris, J. (ed) 1 993, 5000 Years of Textiles, British Museum Press, London. Hart, R. 1 97 1 , English Life in the Nineteenth Century, Wayland Publishers,

London. Harte, N. B. ( ed) 1 991 , Fabrics and Fashions Studies in the Economic and Social

History of Dress, Pasold Research Fund, London. Hartley, R. G. 1 995, Industry and Infrastructure in Western Australia 1829-1940,

The Institution of Engineers Australia, Western Australian Division, Perth. Harris, J. ( ed) 1 993, 5000 Years of Textiles, British Museum Press, London. Hasluck, A. 1969, Unwilling Immigrants: A Study of the Convict Period in

Western Australia, Angus and Robertson, Sydney. Hasluck, P. 1 977, Mucking About: An Autobiography, Melbourne University

Press, Melbourne. Hasluck, A. 1 978, Audrey Tennyson 's Vice-Regal Days, National Library of

Australia, Canberra. Hasluck, A. 1 965, Thomas Peel of Swan River, Oxford University Press,

London. Hasluck, A. 1955, Portrait with Background: A Life of Georgiana Molloy, Oxford University Press, London. Hassam, A. 1 992, Our Floating Home: Social Space and Group Identity on Board

the Emigrant Ship, University of London Press, London. Hawkins, M. 1 997, Social Darwinism in European and American Thought

1860-1965, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, New York. Hazlitt, W. 1 839, Sketches and Essays, Oxford University Press, London. Heard, G. 1 924, Narcissus: An Anatomy of Clothes, Kegan Paul Trench Trubner, New York. Henderson, G. 1 980, Unfinished Voyages: Western Australian Shipwrecks

1622-1850, University of Western Australia Press, Perth. Hendrickson, H. ( ed) 1 996, Clothing and Difference: Embodied Identities in

Colonial and Post-modern Africa, Duke University Press, London. Hergenhan, L. 1 993, Unnatural Lives: Studies in Australian Convict Fiction,

University of Queensland Press, Queensland.

352

Hetherington, P. (ed) 1988, Childhood and Society in Western Australia, University of Western Australia press, Perth.

Hitchcock, J. K. 1929, The History of Fremantle 1829-1929, Fremantle City Council, Fremantle.

Hobhouse, S. & Brockway, A. F. (eds) 1922, English Prisons To-day: Being the Report of the Prison System Enquiry Committee, Longmans, London.

Holden, P. ( ed) 1983, Women 's Religious Experience, Croom Helm, London.

Hollander, A. 1995, Sex and Suits, Alfred A. Knoff, New York

Hom, M. J. & Gurel, L. M. 1981, The Second Skin: An Interdisciplinary Study of Clothing, Hougtton Miffin Company, New York.

Hom, P. 1992, High Society: A Display of Formal Dress for Fashionable People, Merseyside.

Houghton, W. 1957, The Victorian Frame of Mind 1830-1870, Yale University Press, New Haven & London.

Howard, J. 1977, The State of the Prisons, Professional Books, London.

Hungerford, T. A. G. 1977, Wong Chu and the Queen 's Letter Box, Fremantle Arts Centre Press, Fremantle.

Hunt, A. 1996, Governance of the Consuming Passions: A History of Sumptuary Law, St. Martins Press, New York.

Hussey, W. D. 1971 , British History 1815-1939, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.

Hutt, C. 1972, Males and Females, Penguin, Harmondsworth.

Hux, A., Jarman, F. & Cleberzon, B. 1987, America: A History, Globe/Modem Curriculum Press, Toronto.

Isaacs, J. 1987, 200 Years of Australian Women 's Domestic and Decorative Arts: Gentle Arts, Lansdowne Publishing, Sydney.

Isaacs, J. 1990, Pioneering Women in the Bush and Outback, Lansdowne Press, Melbourne.

Jackson, J. A. 1969, ( ed) Migration, Cambridge University Press, London.

Jackson, S. & Jones, J. (eds) 1998, Contemporary Feminist Theories, Edinburgh University Press, Edinburgh.

353

Jackson, S. & Jones, J. 1 998, Contemporary Feminist Theories, Edinburgh University Press, Edinburgh.

Jarausch, K. W. H. & Hardy, C. A 1 991 , Quantitative Methodsfor Historians, The University of North Carolina Press, North Carolina.

Jary, D. & J. 1991 , Collins Dictionary of Sociology, Harper Collins Publishers, London.

Jefferys, J. B. 1 954, Retail Trading in Britain 1850-1950, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.

Jennings, R. J. 1 983, 'Busse/ton ' Outstation on the Vasse 1830-1850, The South West Printing and Publishing Company, Bunbury.

Joel, A 1 984, Parade: The Story of Fashion in Australia, Harper Collins Publications, Sydney.

Joel, A 1984, Best dressed: 200 Years of Fashion in Australia, William Collins, Sydney.

Johnson, A 1926, The Historian and Historical Evidence, Charles Scribner's Sons, New York.

Johnson, K. K. P. & Lennon, S . J. (eds) 1 999, Appearance and Power, Berg, New York.

Jones, A 1 996, Powers of the Press: Newspaper, Power and the Public in Nineteenth Century England, Scolar Press, London, New York.

Joske, P. 1 989, Dearest Isabella: Life and Letters of Isabella Ferguson I 8 I 9-19 I 0, University of W estem Australia Press, Perth.

Joyce, P. 1 994, Democratic Subjects: The Self and the Social in Nineteenth Century England, Cambridge University Press, London, New York, Melbourne.

Katz, E. & Lazarsfeld, P. F. 1 955, Personal Influence, The Free Press, Illinois.

Kauffinan, L. (ed) 1989, Feminism and Institutions: Dialogues on Feminist Theory, Basil Blackwell, Oxford, Cambridge.

Keddle, N. (ed) 1996, Debating Gender: Debating Sexuality, New York University Press, New York, London.

Kellam, J. 1 83 1 , The Narrative of a Voyage to the Swan River, F. C. Westley, London.

354

Kendall, G. & Wickham, G. 1999, Using Foucault 's Methods, Sage Publications, London.

Kidwell, C. B. 1979, Cutting a Fashionable Fit: Dressmakers ' Drafting System in the United States, Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington.

Kidwell, C. & Steele, V. (eds) 1989, Men and Women: Dressing the Part, Smithsonian Institute Press, Washington.

King, N. 1980, Colourful Taste of the Western Australian Gold Fields, Rigby Publishers, Adelaide.

Kingston, B. 1994, Basket, Bag and Trolley: A History of Shopping in Australia, Oxford University Press, London.

Knight, W. H. 1870, Western Australia: Its History, Progress and Condition and Prospects and its Advantages as a Field of Emigration, Perth Gazette and W estem Australian Times, Perth.

Kociumbas, J. 1997, Australian Childhood: A History, Allen and Unwin, Australia.

Kohler, C. 1963, A History of Costume, Dover Publications, New York.

Konig, R. 1973, The Restless Image: A Sociology of Fashion, Allen and Unwin Ltd, London.

Kroeber, A. L. 1957, Style and Civilisation, Cornill University Press, New York.

Kunzie, D. 1982, Fashion and Fetishism, Rowman and Littlefield, New Jersey.

Lady Barker, 1877, House and Housekeeping, William Hunt & Co. , London.

Lady Barker, 1878, The Bedroom and Boudoir, MacMillan & Co., London.

Landor, E. W. 1847, The Bushman: or, Life in a New Country, R. Bentley, London.

Laver, J. 1929, English Costumes in the Nineteenth Century, Adam and Charles Black, London.

Laver, J. 1969, Modesty in Dress, Houghton Mifflin Company, Boston.

Laver, J. 1937, Taste and Fashion, George G. Harrap and Company Ltd, London.

Laver, J. 1988, Costume and Fashion: A Concise History, Thames and Hudson, London.

Laver, J. 1952, Clothes, Burke Publishing Co. Ltd, London.

355

Laver, J. 1972, The Age of Illusion, Manners and Morals 1 750-1848, Weidenfeld and Nicolson, London.

Lawton, R. (ed) 1978, The Census and Social Structure: An Interpretative Guide to Nineteenth Century Census for England and Wales, Frank Cass & Company, London.

Leahy, S. M. 1993, Convict Teachers and the Children of Western Australia, 1850-1890, Unpublished Thesis, Edith Cowan University, Perth.

Lemire, B. 1998, 'Developing Consumerism and Early Industrial England; The Trade in Secondhand Clothes', Journal of British Studies, Vol. 27

Leob, L. A. 1994, Consuming Angels: Advertising and Victorian Women, Oxford University Press, Oxford.

Levi-Strouss, M. 1986, The Cashmere Shawl, Harry N. Abrahams Inc, New York.

Levitt, S. 1986, Victorians Unbuttoned: Registered Designs for Clothing, Their Makers and Wearers 1839-1900, George, Allen and Unwin, London.

Lipman-Blumen, J. 1984, Gender Roles and Power, Prentice Hall, New Jersey.

Lipovetski, G. 1991, The Empire of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy, Princeton University Press, Princeton, New Jersey.

Lister, M. 1972, Costumes of Everyday Life: An Illustrated History of Working Clothes.from 900-1910, Berrie and Jenkins, London.

Lloyd, A. L. 1975, Folk Songs in England, Lawrence and Wishart, London.

Londale, R. 1990, 18th Century Women Poets: An Oxford Anthology, Oxford University Press, Oxford, New York.

Lorimer, D. A. 1978, Colour, Class and the Victorians English Attitudes to the Negro in the Mid-Nineteenth Century, Leicester University Press.

Love, M. J. 1996, The Sherwood Papers: A Swan River Story, Optima Press, Perth.

Love, R. 1982, Darwin and Social Darwinism, Deacon University Press, Victoria.

Lovejoy, A. 0. 1978, The Great Chain of Being, Harward University Press, London.

Lowerson, J. & Myersough, J. 1977, Time to Spare in Victorian England, The Harvester Press Ltd, Sussex . .

356

Lupton, P. (ed) 1995, Theory, Evidence and Explanation, Darmouth.

Lurie, A. 1 98 1 , The Language of Clothes, William Heinemann Ltd, London.

Lyndon Shanley, M. 1989, Feminism, Marriage and the Law in Victorian England, Princeton University Press, New Jersey.

Mackay, E. 1985, Australian Fashion Design, Kevin Weldon and Associate, Sydney.

Mackey, D. C. 1 976, More Symbol Than a Success: Foundation Years of the Swan River Colony, Westbooks Pty Ltd, Perth.

Mackrell, A 1986, Shawls, Stoles and Scarves, B. T. Barsford, London.

Madge, G. 1 970, The Changing Form of Fashion, J. M. Dent and Son Ltd, London.

Mann, K. 193 1 , Peasant Costume in Europe, Adam and Charles Black, London.

Mann, P. H. 1 968, Methods of Sociological Inquiry, Basil Blackwell, London.

Marks, S. & Richardson, P. 1 984, International Labour Migration: Historical Perspective, Maurice Temple Smith, London.

Marshall, T. H. 1 950, Citizenship and Social Class, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.

Martin, L. 1 978, The Way We Wore, Liberty of Congress, Cataloguing of Publication Data, New York.

Marx, K. 1 906-1909, Capital: A Critique of Political Economy: Volume 3, Charles H. Kerr & Co, Chicago.

Marx, K. 1 970, The German Ideology, Progress Publishers, Moscow.

Marx, K. & Engels, F. 1998, The Communist Manifesto: A Modern Edition, Verso, London, New York.

Mason, R. 1998, The Economics of Conspicuous Consumption: Theory and Thought Since 1 700, Edward Elgar, Cheltenham, Northampton.

Mayhew, H. 1985, London Labour and the London Poor, Penguin, Harmondsworth.

Maynard, M. 1994, Fashioned From Penury: Dress as Cultural Practice in Colonial Australia, The Press Syndicate of the University of Cambridge, Cambridge.

357

Maccoby, E. & Jacklin, C. N. 1974, The Psychology of Sex Differences, Stanford University Press, California.

Maclehose, J. 1977, Picture of Sydney and Strangers ' Guide in NSW for 1839, John Ferguson Ltd, New South Wales.

McCrone, K. E. 1988, Playing the Game: Sport and Physical Emancipation of English Women 1870-1914, The University Press of Kentucky, Kentucky.

McDowell, C. 1984, McDowells Directory of 20th Century Fashion, Federick Mullen, London.

MacDowell, C. 1992, Hats, Status, Style and Glamour, Thames and Hudson, London.

McGowan, E. E. 1979, Gold and Growth Western Australia in the 1890s, Carnegie Mellon University, Pittsburgh.

McLeod, H. (ed) Religion and Society in England 1850-1914, Macmillan Press Ltd, Melbourne.

McNay, L. 1992, Foucault and Feminism, Polity Press, Cambridge.

McNeill, P. ( ed) 1985, Research Methods, Tavistock Publications, London.

Mitchell, W. ( ed) 1964, What Veblen Taught Selected Writings of Thorstein Veblen, Sentry Press, New York.

Miller, B. D. ( ed) 1993, Sex and Gender Hierarchies, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.

Millett, E. 1980, An Australian Parsonage or the Settler and the Savage in Western Australia, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Mills, D. R.1980, Lord and Peasant in Nineteenth Century Britain, Croom Helm London.

Mingay, G. E. (ed) 1981, The Victorian Countryside: Vol. I, Routledge & Kegan Paul, London, New York.

Mingay, G. E. (ed) 1981,The Victorian Countryside: Vol. 2, Routledge & Kegan Paul, London, New York.

Mingay, G. E. 1976, The Gentry: The Rise and Fall of a Ruling Class, Longman, London.

358

Mingay, G. E. 1963, English Landed Society in the 18th Century, Roultedge and Kegan Paul, London.

Mitchell, R. A. 1994, The Duperouzel Family in Australia, Blakir Pty Ltd, Perth.

Modleski, T. ( ed) 1986, Studies in Entertainment: Critical Approaches to Mass Culture, Indiana University Press, Bloomington, Indianapolis.

Montgomery, F. M. 1970, Printed Textiles: English and American Cottons and Linens 1 700-1850, Thames & Hudson, London.

Moore, G. F. 1884, Diary of Ten Years: Eventful Ltfe of an Early Settler in Western Australia, M Walbrook, London.

Moore, D. L. 1949, The Woman in Fashion, B. T. Batsford, London.

Morris, R. J. ( ed) 1986, Cla,;s, Power and Social Structure in British Nineteenth Century Towns, Leicester University Press, Leicester.

Morris, N. & Rothman, D. J. 1995, The Oxford History of the Prison: The Practice of the Punishment in Western Society, Oxford University Press, London.

Morrison, K. 1995, Marx, Durkheim, Weber; Formations of Modem Social Thought, Sage Publications, London.

Mulvey, K. & Richards, M. 1998, Decade of Beauty: The Changing Image of Women 1890-1990, Reed Consumer Books, London.

Nairn, R. A. 1982, Pretty Maiden: The Steamship Kwinana, Fremantle Arts Centre Press, Fremantle.

Neary, B. 1987, Irish Lives, The Irish in Western Australia, Sky Publishing, Perth.

Nevins, A. & Commager, H. S. 1966, A Short History of the United States, A. A. Knopf, New York.

Newton, S. M. 1974, Health, Art and Reason. Dress Reformers of the Nineteenth Century, John Murray, London.

Numberg, R. L. & Stenhouse, J. (eds) 1999, Disseminating Darwinism, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.

Nye, R. B. & Morpurgo, J. E. 1970, The Birth of the USA: A History of the United States: Volume. 1 & 2, Penguin Books, Harmondesworth.

359

Page, M. F. 1922, Fitted/or the Voyage: 1he Adelaide Steamship Company Limited 1875-1975, Rigby, Adelaide.

Palmer, A. 1981, Fields Gold: 1he Story of the Yalgoo Gold.fields, Fremantle Arts Centre Press, Perth.

Panayi, P. ( ed) 1996, Racial Violence in Britain in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries, Leicester University Press, Leicester.

Panayi, P. ( ed) 1996, Racial Violence in Britain in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Century, Leicester University Press, Leicester.

Panikkar, K. M. 1959, Asia and Western Dominance, George Allen & Unwin, London.

Parsons, T. 1964, Essays in Sociological Theory, Free Press, New York.

Parsons, R. H. 1971, Ships Registered at Fremantle Before 1900, Ronald Parsons, South Australia.

Payne, B. 1965, History of Costume: From an Ancient Egyptians to the Twentieth Century, Harper & Row Publishers, New York.

Peacock, J. 1996, Men's Fashion: 1he Complete Source book, Thames and Hudson, London.

Peoples Publishing Company, Melbourne 1885. Australian Etiquette, Rules and Usages of the Best Society in the Australian Colonies, J. M. Dent, London.

Perkins, H. 1969, 1he Origin of the Modern English Society 1 780-1880, Routledge and Kegan Paul, London.

Perrot, P. 1994, Fashioning the Bourgeoisie: A History of Clothing in the Nineteenth Century, Princeton University Press, Princeton.

Perrot, P. 1992, 1he History of Clothing in Nineteenth Century, Princeton University Press, Princeton.

Phillips, H. C. J. 1995, Tennis West: A History of the Western Australian Lawn Tennis Association from the 1890s to the 1900, Play Right Publishing, Sydney.

Phillips, K. C. 1984, Language and Class in Victorian England, Blackwell, London, New York.

Ping, L. P. 1978, Chinese Society in Nineteenth Century Singapore, Oxford University Press, London, New York.

360

Pitt, D. C. 1972, Using Historical Sources in Anthropology and Sociology, Holt, Rinehart & Winston, New York.

Polhemus, T. & Proctor, L. 1978, Fashion and Anti-Fashion: Anthropology of Clothing and Adornment, Thames and Hudson, London.

Poole, D. S. 1993, What Jane Austen Ate and Charles Dickens Knew: The Facts of Daily Life in Nineteenth Century England, Simon and Schulster, London.

Popham, D. ( ed) 1978, Reflections: Profiles of 150 women who helped make Western Australia 's History, Carroll's Pty Ltd, Perth, Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane.

Poster, M. 1984, Foucault, Marxism and History, Mode of Production Versus Mode of Information, Polity Press, Cambridge.

Probyn, E. 1993, Sexing the Self: Gendered Positions in Cultural Studies, Routledge, New York.

Oakley, A. 1972, Sex, Gender and Society, Sun Books, South Melbourne.

Ogle, N. 1839, The Colony of Western Australia: A Manual for Emigrants, James Fraser, Regent Street, London.

O'Neill, T. P. 1968, British Parliamentary Papers, Irish University Press, Dublin.

O'Riley, I, 1968, Giant in the Sun, Muhlings Pty Ltd, Melbourne.

Owen, R. P. 1967, Dress Optional: The Revolution in Men 's Wear, Bennett-England, London.

Quennel, M. 1934, A History of Everyday Things in England, Volume 4, 1851-1914, B. T. Batsford, London.

Ragin, C. ( ed) 1991, Issues and Alternatives in Comparative Social Research, E. J. Bill, New York.

Ragin, C. ( ed) 1987, The Comparative Method: Moving Beyond Qualitative and Quantitative Strategies, University of California Press, California.

Rainey, R. 1985, Sumptuary Legislation in Renaissance Florence, U-M-I Dissertation Information Service, Michigan.

Ramsay-Laye, E. 1861, Social Life and Manners in Australia, Longman, London.

Raymond, J. 1999, The Invention of the Newspaper: English Newsbooks 1641-1649, Clavendon Press, London.

361

Read, D. 1979, 1979, England 1868-1914, Longman, London.

Read, D. 1979, England 1868-1914, The Age of Urban Democracy, Longman, London.

Reader, W. J. 1964, Life in Victorian England, B. T. Batsford, London.

Reader, W. J. 1966, Professional Men: The Rise of the Professional Classes in Nineteenth Century England, Weidenfeld & Nicolson, London.

Reece, R. H. W. 1983, A Place of Consequence: A Pictorial History of Fremantle, Fremantle Arts Centre Press, Fremantle.

Reece, R. H. W. 1988, Australia, the Beckoning Continent: Nineteenth Century Emigration Literature, Institute of Commonwealth Studies: Australian Studies Centre, University of London, London.

Reece, R. H. W. (ed) 1993, Irish Convict Lives, Crossing Press, Sydney.

Reece, R. H. W. & Stannage, T. 1984, European Aborigi-nal Relations in Western Australian History, University of Western Australia Press, Nedlands.

Reid, A. J. 1992, Social Classes and Social Relations in Britain 1850-1914, Macmillan Education Ltd, London.

Reinharz, S. 1992, Feminist Methods in Social Research, Oxford University Press, New York.

Reinhold, M. 1970, History of Purple as a Status Symbol in Antiquity, Latomus Revue D'etudes Latines, New York.

Reynolds, R. 1996, Man on the Road: JOO Years of Commercial Travelling in Western Australia 1896-1996, Commercial Travellers' Association of Western Australia, Fremantle.

Richards, R. 1993, Murray andMand:urah: A Sequel History of the Old Murray District of Western Australia. Frank Daniels, Perth.

Richardson, L. 1997, Fields of Play: Constructing an Academic Life, Rutgers University Press, New Jersey.

Richardson, L. 1990, Writing Strategies: Researching Diverse Audiences, Sage Publications, California, London.

Ridgeway, C. L. 1992, Gender, Interaction and Inequality, Springer-Verlag, New York.

362

Ritchie, J. 1975, Australia as Once We Were, William Reinmann Australia Ltd, Melbourne.

Rivers, V. Z. 1999, The Shinning Cloth: Dress and Adornment that Glitters, Thames and Hudson, London.

Roach, M. E. and Eicher, J. B. (eds) Dress, Adornment, and the Social Order, John Wiley & Sons, New York, London, Sydney.

Roberts, D. 1979, Paternalism in Early Victorian England, Croom Helm, London.

Roberts, J. 1834, The Narrative of a Voyage Swan River and Van Diemen 's Land During the Years 1829, 1830, 1831, Richard Bentley, London.

Robbins, K. 1989, Nineteenth Century Britain: England, Scotland and Wales: The Making of a Nation, Oxford University Press, London.

Robinson, R. 1969, A History of Dyed Textiles, Studio Vista, London.

Robinson, R. 1969, A History of Printed Textiles, Studio Vista, London.

Robson, L. L. 1965, The Convict Settlers of Australia, Melbourne University Press, Melbourne.

Roe, M. 1965, Quest for Authority in Eastern Australia 1835-1851, Melbourne University Press, Melbourne.

Rosaldo, M. S. & Lamphere, L. (eds) 1974, Women, Culture and Society, Stanford University Press, Stanford.

Rose, A. ( ed) 1962, Human Behaviour and Social Processes: An Interactive Approach, Houghton, New York.

Rose, C.1989, Children 's Clothes since 1 750, B. T. Batsford, London.

Rosencranz, M. L. 1972, Clothing Concepts: A Social Psychological Approach, The Macmillan Company, New York.

Russell, E . 1980, A History of the Law in Western Australia and its Development from 1829-1979, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Russo, G. A. 1995, A Friend Indeed: Louisa Clifton of Australind Western Australia, Vanguard Press, Perth.

Ryan, J. 1995, Ancestors: Chinese in Colonial Australia, Fremantle Arts Centre Press, Fremantle.

363

Said, E. W. 1995, Orienta/ism: Western Conceptions of the Orient, Penguin Books, London.

Samuel, R. 1994, Theatres of Memory: Past and Present in Contemporary Culture Vol 1, Verso, London, New York.

Sanders, T. 1975, Bunbury: Some Early History, Roebuck Society Publication, Canberra.

Scandrett, E. 1978, Breeches and Bustles: An Illustrated History of Clothes Worn in Australia 1 788-1914, Pioneer Design Studio, Melbourne.

Schoeser, M. 1989, English and American Textiles: From 1 790 to the Present, Thames & Hudson, London.

Scott, A. C. 1958, Chinese Costume in Transition, Donald Moore, Singapore.

Scott Memory, R. 1967, Carnarvon: A Town Grows, Service Printing, Perth.

Seale, C. 1998, Researching Society and Culture, Sage Publications, London.

Seely, J. R. 1909, The Expansion of England, Macmillan and Co. Limited, London.

Shakespeare, W. 1928, The Taming of the Shrew, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.

Shann, E. 0. G. 1926, Cattle Chosen: The Story of the First Group Settlement in Western Australia 1829-1841, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Sharpe, S. (ed) 1998, Women 's Work: The English Experience 1650-1914, Hodder Headline Group, London.

Shaw, A. G. L. 1966, Convict and the Colonies, Faber & Faber, London.

Sica, A. (ed) 1998, What a Social Theory ? A Philosophical Debate, Blackwell Publishers, London.

Simmel, G. 1984, On Women, Sexuality, and Love, Yale University Press, London.

Simmel, G. 1959, Essays on Sociology, Philosophy and Aesthetics, Harper Torch Books, New York.

Skevington, S. & Baker, D. 1989, The Social Identity of Women, Sage Publication, London.

364

Smith, E. 1979, The Beckoning West: The Story of H. S. Trotman and the Canning Stock Route, Westcolour Press, Perth.

Spring, J. 1998, Education and the rise of the Global Economy, Lawrence Erlbaum Associates, London.

Sproles, G. B. & Burns, L. D. 1989, Changing Appearances, Understanding Dress in Contemporary Society, Fairchild Publications, New York.

Squire, G. 1974, Dress, Art and Society 1560-1970, Studio Vista, London.

Stannage, C. T. (ed) 1981, A New History of Western Australia, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Stannage, C. T. 1979, The People of Perth: A Social History of Western Australia 's Capital City, Perth City Council, Perth.

Stannage, C. T. (ed) 1981, Convictism in Western Australia, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Stanski, P. ( ed) 1973, The Victorian Revolution, Government and Society in Victoria 's Britain, New Viewpoints, Frankil Watts, New York.

Statham, P. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians Early Settlers 1829-1850, Vol 1, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Steedman, M. 1997, Angels in the Workplace: Women and the Construction of Gender Relations in the Canadian Clothing Industry 1890-1940, Oxford University Press, Toronto, New York, Oxford.

Steel, V. 1985, Fashion and Eroticism, Oxford University Press, New York.

Steel, V. 1996, Fetish, Fashion, Sex and Power, Oxford University Press, London.

Stell, M. K. 1991, Half the Race: A History of Australian Women in Sport, Angus & Robertson, North Ryde.

Stephens, W. B. 1973, Sources for English Local History, Studies in the uses of the Historical Evidence, Cambridge University Press, Melbourne.

Stevens, C. 1989, Tin Mosques & Ghantowns: A History of Afghan Came/drivers in Australia, Oxford University Press, Melbourne.

Stevenson, P. 1978, Bridal Fashions, Ian Allan Ltd, London.

Stinchcombe, A L. 1978, Theoretical Methods in Social History, Academic Press, New York.

365

Stochhard, J. & Johnson, M. M. 1992, Sex and Gender in Society, Prentice Hall, New Jersey.

Stone, D. I. & Garden, D. S. 1978, Squatters and Settlers, A. H.& A W. Reed, Sydney.

Storch, R. D. (ed) 1982, Popular Culture and Custom in Nineteenth Century England, Croom Helm Ltd, London.

Stormon, E. J. (ed) 1977, The Salvado Memoirs, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Strutt, J. 1970, Dress and Habits of the People in England, The Tabard Press Limited, London.

Swaisland, C. 1993, Servants and Gentlewomen to the Golden Land: The Emigration of Single Women from Britain to South Africa 1820-1939, Berg Publishers, London.

Taylor, L.1983, Mourning Dress: A Costume and Social History, George Allen and Unwin, London, New York.

The Information Section: Australian Electoral Commission. (ed) 1994, The People 's Say: Elections in Australia.

Thompson, E. P. 1963, The Making of the English Working Class, Penguin Books, London.

Thompson, F. M. L. 1998, The Rise of Respectable Society: A Social History of Victorian Britain 1830-1900, Fontana Press, London.

Thompson, R. 1994, Mobility and Migration: East Angelical Founders of New England 1629-1640, University of Massachusetts Press, Massachusetts.

Thomson, J. K. J. 1992, A Distinctive Industrialisation, Cambridge University Press, London.

Tibrick, K. 1990, Empire and the English Character, I. B. Tauris, London.

Tilman, R. 1996, The Intellectual Legacy of Thorstein Veblen: Unsolved Issues, Greenwood Press, London.

Toch, H. 1977, Living in Prison: The Ecology of Survival, Princeton University Press, Princeton.

Tong, R. 1989, Feminist Thought: A Comprehensive Introduction, Routledge, London . .

366

Tosh, J. 1984, The Pursuit of History, Longman, London.

Tressel!, R. 1955, The Ragged Trousered Philanthropists, Lawrence and Wishart, London.

Trevelyan, M. 1942, Illustrated English Social History, Longmans, Green & Company, London.

Trinh, T. M. 1991, When the Moon Waxes Red: Representation, Gender and Cultural Politics, Routledge, New York, London.

Tripathi, B. D. 1977, Nature of Sociological Theories: The Action Approach, Stirling Publishing Limited, New Delhi.

Trollope, A.1968, Australia and New Zealand Vol 1, Dawson and Pall Mall, London.

Trollope, A. 1968, Australia and New Zealand Vol 2, Dawson and Pall Mall, London.

Tseelon, E. 1995, The Masque of Femininity, Sage Publications, London, New York.

Turner, F. M. 1981, The Greek Heritage in Victorian Britain, New Haven and London, Yale University Press, London.

Turner, T. 1956, Turners of Augusta, Paterson Brokensha, Perth.

Turner-Wilcox, R. 1963, Five Centuries of American Costume, Adam and Charles Black, London.

Twopeny, R. 1976, Town Life in Australia 1883, Penguin Books, Melbourne.

Uren, M. 1948, Land Looking West: The Story of Governor James Stirling in Western Australia, Oxford University Press, London.

Vamplew, W. & Stoddart, B. (eds) 1994, Sports in Australia: A Social History, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.

Van Der Merve, P. J. 1995, The Migrant Farmer in the History of the Cape 1657-1842, Ohio University Press, Athens.

Van Schie, K.1986, Fashions.from Australia 's Yesteryear, Green House, Melbourne.

Veblen, T. 1899, The Theory (!/the Leisure Class, Unwin Books, London.

367

Vincent, D. 1989, Literacy and Popular Culture: England 1750-1914, Cambridge University press, Cambridge.

Walkley, C. & Foster, V. 1978, Crinolines and Crimping Irons, Victorian Clothes; How they were Cleaned and Cared for, Peter Owen, London.

Walkley, C. 1981, The Ghost in the Looking Glass: The Victorian Seamstress, Peter Owen, London.

Wallach Scott, J. 1988, Gender and the Politics of History, Columbia University Press, New York.

Walter, J. 1789, Instructions for Cutting Out Apparelfor Poor, J. Walter, London.

Walvin, J. 1992, Black Ivory: A History of British Slavery, Fontana Press, London.

Ward, R. 1958, The Australian Legend, Oxford University Press, Melbourne.

Watson, J. 1976, Hundred Years ago 1876, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Waugh, N. 1987, Corsets and Crinolines, Theatre Arts Books, New York.

Waugh, N. 1968, The Cut of Women 's Clothes 1600-1930, Faber and Faber, London.

Weidenhofer, M. 1973, The Convict Years: Transportation and Penal System 1 788-1868, Lansdowne Press, Melbourne.

Weidenhofer, M. (ed) Colonial Ladies, Currey O'Neil Ross, Sydney.

Weedon, C. 1999, Feminism: Theory and the Politics of Difference, Blachwell Publishers, Oxford, Massachusetts.

Weiner, A. B. and Schneider, J. 1988, Cloth and Human Experience, Smithsonian Institution Press, New York.

West, S. ( ed) 1996, The Victorians and Race, Scolar Press, London.

Westlake, J. 1904, A Treatise on Private International Law; With Principal Reference to its Practice in England, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge.

Westralian History Group. 1985, On this side: Themes and Issues in Western Australian History, Bookland Pty. Ltd, East Perth.

White, W. J. 1971, Working Class Costume from Sketches of Characters, Victoria & Albert Museum, London.

368

Wildeblood, J. 1965, The Polite World, A Guide to English Manners and Deportment, Davis Poynter Ltd, London.

Willard, M. 1967, History of the White Australia Policy to 19 20, Melbourne University Press, Melbourne.

Willett, C. and Cunnington, P. 1951, Illustrations From Medieval Period to 1939, Michael Joseph Ltd, London.

Williams, A. E. 1979, Western Australia and The Potted History, Williams Pioneer Publications, Perth ..

Williams, G. & Frost, A. (eds) 1988, Terra Australis to Australia, Oxford University Press, Melbourne.

Willoughby, H. 1865, Transportation: The British Convict: A Visit to the Swan River Settlement, Harrison & Sons, London.

Wills, G. & Midgley, D. 1973, Fashion Marketing: An Anthology of View Points and Perspectives, Allen and Unwin Ltd, London.

Wilson, E. 0. 1980, Sociobiology, Harvard University Press, Cambridge.

Wilson, T. B. 1968, Narrative of the Voyage Around the World, Dawson and Pall Mall, London.

Women's Advisory Council of Western Australia, 1986, Herstory: Women in Western Australian History, National Library services of Australia.

Yarwood, D. 1978, The Encyclopedia of World Costume, Charles Scribner's Sons, New York.

Journals and Magazines:

Blumer, H. 1969, Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection, The Sociological Quarterly, Vol. 10. pp. 275-291, footnote 93

Bolton, G. C. 1968, 'The Idea of the Colonial Gentry ', Historical Studies, vol. 13 . footnote 3 7 4

Bolton, G. C. 1968, The Idea of the Colonial Gentry ', Historical Studies, vol. 13 , pp. 307, footnote 376

Burr, V. 1998, Gender and Social Psychology, Routledge, London, New York. pp. 17 & 88-89, footnote 829

Burton, C. A. 1938, 'Memories of Mrs. Thomas Norrish' , Early Days, Vol. 1, October, pp. 38, footnote 613

369

Cowan, E. 1928, 'Early Social Life and Fashions', The Western Australian Historical Society Journal, Vol 1 , Part 3,. pp. 1 - 17, footnote 8 1

Cowan, E. D. 1928, 'Early Social Life and Fashions, ' Early Days, The Western Australian Historical Society, Part. 3. footnote 375

Cowan, E. D. 1928, 'Early Social Life and Fashions, ' Early Days, The Western Australian Historical Society, Part. 3, pp. 5, footnote 385

Cowan, E. D. 1929, 'Letters of early Settlers', Early Days, Vol. 1 , pp. 55, footnote 662

Crowley, F. K. 1949, 'Master and Servant in Western Australia 1829-185 1 ', Early Days, vol. 4, part. 5, pp. 94, footnote 5 1

Crowley, F. K. 1 949, 'Master and Servant in Western Australia 1829-185 1 ', Early Days, vol. 4, part 5, pp. 95, footnote 505

Crowley, F. K. 1949, 'Master and Servant in Western Australia 1829- 185 1 ', Early Days, vol. 4, part 5, pp. 95, footnote 506

De Fircks, T. 1 988, 'Costumes in the Early Years of Western Australia', The Royal Western Australian Historical Society Journal, Vol. 9, Part 6. pp. 27-37, footnote 8 1

Field, M. The History of the Swimming Facilities (Baths and Pools) of Western Australia, Typescript HS/PR/1453, Battye Library, Perth. pp. 1 0, footnote 894

Frost, A C. 1 985, 'Early West Australian Newspapers', Early Days, vol. 9, part. 3, pp. 77-87, footnote 257

Gentilli, S. 1 984, 'Western Australia's Chinese Immigration Policy', Early Days, vol. 9, part. 2, pp. 8 1 , footnote 242

Glover, R. 1 949, 'Captain Symers at Albany', Early Days, vol. 4, part. 5, pp. 85, footnote 336

Jephson, A 1933, 'Reminiscences of Perth', Early Days, vol.2, part. 1 4, pp. 59-62, footnote 743

Joske, E. J. P . 1974, 'Captain Graham: Colonist and Coroner ofFremantle', Early Days, vol. 7, part. 6, pp. 50, footnote 3 17

Hasluck, A 1957, 'Lady Broom', Early Days, Vol. 5 , Part. 3 . pp. 1 - 16, footnote 409

Hasluck, P. 1 928, 'Guildford and the Swan 1827-1842', Early Days, vol. 1 , part. 2, pp. 8-9, footnote 680

Heppingstone, I. 1 973, 'Mrs John: The Letters of Charlotte Bussell', Early Days, vol. 7, part. 5, pp. 1 6, footnote 349

Heppingstone, I. & Wilson, H. M. 1 972, 'Mrs John: The Letters of Charlotte Bussell of Cattle Choo sen' , Early Days, The Western Australian Historical Society, Vol. 7, Part. 4. pp. 1 6, footnote 389

Heppingstone, I. 1973, 'Mrs John: The Letters of Charlotte Bussell', Early Days, vol. 7, part. 5, pp. 46, footnote 406

370

Heppingstone, I. D. 1971, 'American Whalers in Western Australian Waters', Early Days, vol. 7, part. 3, pp. 39, footnote 582

Heppingstone, I. 1973, 'Mrs John: The Letters of Charlotte Bussell', Early Days, vol. 7, part. 5, pp. 55-56

Heppingstone, I. D. 1971, 'American Whalers in Western Australian Waters' , Early Days, vol. 7, part. 3, pp. 37-38, footnote 637

Heppingstone, I. D. 1971, 'American Whalers in Western Australian Waters' , Early Days, vol. 7, part. 3, pp. 39, footnote 640

Heppingstone, I. D. 1971, 'American Whalers in Western Australian Waters' , Early Days, vol. 7 , part. 3 , pp. 43, footnote 648

Heppingstone, I. 1973, 'Mrs John: The Letters of Charlotte Bussell' , Early Days, vol. 7, part. 5, pp. 55-56, footnote 583

Heppingstone, I. 1973, 'Mrs John: The Letters of Charlotte Bussell' , Early Days, vol. 7, part. 5, pp. 54-55, footnote 584

Hillman, J. F. 1938, 'The Life of Thomas Norrish' , Early Days, Vol.1, Part 1, pp. 25, footnote 814

Honniball, J. H. M. 1983, 'The Experiences of a Migrant of 1875: The Letters of Robert Lind', Early Days, vol. 9, part. 1, pp. 84, footnote 320

Honniball, J. H. M. 1968, 'The Letters of Emily Roberts', Early Days, Vol. 6, Part. 7, pp. 78, footnote 742

Kennedy, J. 1927, 'Perth in My Boyhood', Early Days, vol. 1, part. 1, pp. 7, footnote 502

Kennedy, J. 1927, 'Perth in My Childhood' , Early Days, vol. 1, part. 1, pp. 9, footnote 683

Maynard, M. 1987, 'A Form ofHumiliation: Early Transportation Uniforms in Australia' Costume, vol. 21, pp. 61, footnote 559

Maynard, M. 1987, 'A Form ofHumiliation: Early Transportation Uniforms in Australia' Costume, vol. 21, pp. 63, footnote 570

Mazzarol, T. W. 1978, 'Tradition, Environment and the Industrial Labour in Early Western Australia', Studies in Western Australian History, vol. 3, pp. 30-37, footnote 57

Parker, S. & Parker, H. 1979, American Anthropologist, American Anthropological Association, Washington. Vol. 81, No. 1-2. pp. 289-303, footnote 823

Perrot, P. 1981, 'A Different Approach to the History of Dress ', Diogenes, Vol. 114, pp. 162, footnote 310

Pickering, W. G. 1928, 'The Letters of Georgiana Molloy' , Early Days, Vol. 1, Part. 2, pp. 68, footnote 78

Pickering, W. G. 1928, 'Letters of Georgiana Molloy', Early Days, vol.1, part.2, pp. 59, footnote 740

371

Richards, C. C. 1947, 'Memories of the Goldfield Mother' , Early Days, vol. 3 , pp. 16, footnote 451

Roberts, H. 1977, 'The Exquisite Slave : The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman' , Signs, 2(3) pp. 554-569, footnote 884

Ryan, J. 1992, 'The Business of Chinese Coolie Immigration' , Studies in Western Australian History, University of Western Australia Press, Perth. pp 29, footnote 240

Sahlins, M. 1976, Culture and Practical Reasons, The University of Chicago Press, Chicago, London. pp. 182-183, footnote 843

Shenton, E. 1927, 'Reminiscences of Perth 1830-1840' , Early Days, vol. l , part. 1 , pp. 1-3, footnote 324

Shenton, E. 1927, 'Reminiscences of Perth 1830-1840' , Early Days, vol. I, part. 1 , pp. 3, footnote 490

Simmel, G. 1957, 'Fashion', American Journal of Sociology, Vol. LXI 1, Number 6, pp. 541-558, footnote 84

Simmel, G. 1957, 'Fashion' , Fashion and American Journal of Sociology, Vol. LXI 1, Number . 6. pp. 545, footnote 114

Simmel G. 1957, 'Fashion ', American Journal of Sociology, Reprinted from International Quarterly 10 (1904), pp. 130- 1 55 , footnote 138

Simmel, G. 1957, 'Fashion', American Journal of Sociology, Vol. LXII, Number. 6, pp. 544-545, footnote 3 53

Simmel, G. 1957, 'Fashion' , Fashion and American Journal of Sociology, Vol. LXl 1, Number 6. footnote 455

Simmel, G. 1957, 'Fashion ', Fashion and American Journal of Sociology, Vol. LXl 1, Number 6. footnote 475

Simmel G. 1957, 'Fashion ', American Journal of Sociology, Reprinted from International Quarterly 10 (1904), pp. 541-558, footnote 939

Simmel G. 1957, 'Fashion', American Journal of Sociology, Reprinted from International Quarterly 10 (1904), pp. 541-558, footnote 940

Smith, B. J. 196 1, 'Early Western Australian Literature : A Guide to Colonial Life ', University Studies in History, vol. 4, no 1, pp. 29, footnote 31

Sparke, P. 1987, 'The British Textile Industry' , Design in Context, Bloomsbury Publishing Ltd, London. pp. 38-39, footnote 786

Sparke, P. 1987, 'The British Textile Industry', Design in Context, Bloomsbury Publishing Ltd, London. pp. 38-57, footnote 787

Stanford, H. 1954-1955, 'The Broad Arrow as a Government Badge ', Heraldry Today, vol. 3, pp. 135, footnote 566

Stebbing, T. 1999, 'Thomas Hill Dixon : First Superintendent of Convicts in Western Australia' , Early Days, vol. 11, part. 5. pp. 618, footnote 573

Stebbing, T. 1999, 'Thomas Hill Dixon' , Early Days, vol. 2, part. 5 , pp. 612-626, footnote 716

372

Steele, V. 1998, 'A Museum of Fashion is More than a Clothing-bag ', Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, vol. 2, Issue. 4, pp. 327, footnote 77

Stone, C . H. 1929, 'The Diary of Alfred Hawes Stone, ' Early Days, vol. 1, part. 6, pp. 43, footnote 45

Stone, C. H. 1929, "The Diary of Alfred Hawes Stone", Early Days, Vol. 1, Part . 6. pp. 30, footnote 213

Unpublished Theses:

Henderson, G. 1977, From Sail to Steam: Shipping in Western Australia 1870-1890, Unpublished Thesis (M.A), University of Western Australia,

Nedlands.

Brown, P. M. 1997, The Life of a Maritime Community: A Social History of rremantle 1900-1939, Unpublished Thesis (Ph.D), University of Western

Australia, Nedlands.

Leahy, S. M. 1993, Convict Teachers and the Children of Western Australia, 1850-1890, Unpublished Thesis (B.A. Hon), Edith Cowan University, Perth.

Smith, B. J. 1961, Early Western Australian Literature: A Guide to Colonial and Gold.fields Life, Unpublished Thesis (M.A), University of Western

Australia, N edlands.

Willis, B. 1992, From Indispensability to Redundancy: The Afghans in Western Australia 1887-1911, Unpublished Thesis (M.A), University of Western Australia, Nedlands.

373

History of Costume:

The Consumption, Governance, Potency

and Patronage of Attire in

Colonial

W estem Australia

Appendices

August 2004

Appendices

Appendix 1 :

Imported Clothing, Clothing Materials, Haberdasheries and Accessories:

Western Australia 1829-1914 pp. 1

Appendix 2:

Tailors, Convict Tailors and Dressmakers/Seamstresses:

Western Australia 1829-1914 pp. 46

Appendix 3 :

Fashions of Western Australians 1829- 1914 pp. 58

Appendix 1 :

Imported Clothing, Clothing Materials, Haberdasheries

and Accessories: Western Australia 1 829- 19 14

Sources:

Colonial Western Australian Newspapers Colonial Western Australian Surviving Costumes

Collated by author Damayanthie Eluwawalage

Imported Clothing, Clothing 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Materials, Haberdasheries and 8 8 8 8 8 8 8 9

Accessories: Western Australia 2 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

1829-1914 9 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 - - - - - - - -4 5 6 7 8 9 0 1

Sources: 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 4 # = Colonial Western Australian Newspapers

* = Colonial Western Australian Surviving Costumes

Apron # # # # # # # Printed Apron # # # # # # Gig Apron # # Ladies Apron # # # # # Housemaids Muslin # # # # Housemaids India Linen A With Bib

# # L's German Apron # L's Holland Apron · # # Cooking Apron # # Muslin Apron # # # # # # # Satin Apron #

Coloured Cotton Bandannas # # Bathing Costumes (from 1881) # # #

Men # # Women # #

Bertha -deep fall of lace/silk # # Lace Bertha *

Bibs # # Blazer # # Bloomers #

flannelette Bloomer # Blouse # # # # # # #

Holland Blouses # # # # # # Tweed Boluses # # # # # # Lawn Blouses # # # # # # Lace Blouses # # # French Printed Flan # Printed F1anne1 B. # flannelette Blouse # # # # # # Paris Mcxlel Blouse # Amazcm Cloth B. # Velvet Blouse # # # # # # Cambric Blouses # # Printed Cambric B #

1

Tucked Cashmere B # Cashmere Blouse # # # Grass Lawn Blouse # # Twill Blouse # atlffon Blouses # # Pleated atlffon B. # # Sateen Blouses # # # Crepon Blouse # # Crepe Blouse * Silk Blouse # # # # * #

# Coloured Silk B. # Silk Delaine B. # Muslin Blouse # # # # * #

# Printed Muslin B. # French Muslin B. # Muslin Shirt Blouse # NlID's Veiling B. # Japanese Silk B. # Flannelette Shirt B. # Crash Blouse # Voile Blouse # Organdie Blouse # Tartan Blouse * Lawn Blouse * # GolfBlouse # Camlri.c Blouses # Wool Delaine B. # Wmcey Blouses # American Shirt B # Pique Blouse #

Boa -wind around neck and ends hung down to the knees # # # # # # Fancy Coloured B. # # Victorian Boa # Fur Boa # # # Lace Boa # # Feathel" Boa # # Ostrich Feather Boa # 1..ambs\\ool Boa #

Bodice # # # * # #

Jacket Bodice # # Parisian Bodices #

2

Maid's Bodices # # # Tucked Bodices * Yoked Bodices *

Bonnet # # # # # # # # Straw Bonnet # # #

Braces -straps over the shoulders to support leg wear # # # # # # # # India-Rubber Brace # # # # Cottcm Braces # # # # # Elastic Braces # # # # # # Argo,y Braces # Armstroog Braces # Berlin Braces # Silk Braces # Silk Embroidered B # Men's French B. # American Braces # Samson Braces #

Breeches # # # # # # Cord Breeches # # Knee Breeches # # # Riding Breeches # # # # #

Bustle # # Cape # # # # # # #

Inverness Cape # # Muslin Cape # # # # # # Laa: Cape # # # # # # Ladies Fur Cape # # Beaded Cape # # # Beaver Cloth Cape # Men'sCape # # # Chiffon/Lace Cape # Shoulder Cape # #

Cardigan # # Chemisette -white under bodice of muslin or lace # # # # # #

Chemises # # # # # # Flannelette Chemise # # Calico Chemises #

Chesterfield -outer coat with pockets and velvet collar # # # # # # # TV\e'rl Chesterfield # Gambrooo Chester. # Beaver Chesterfield #

Circassians # Cloak # # # # # # #

Camlet Boat Cloak # #

3

Balmoral Cloak # # Ladies Cloak # # # # # # Ladies' Waterproof # # # Waterproof Cloak # # # # Tm:ed Cloak # # # Plaid Cloak # # Coburg Cloak # Merino Cloak # # # # Cashmere Cloak # Dust Cloak # # # Opera Cloak #

Cloud -ftlmy scarf worn over head and shoulders # Woolen Cloud #

Coat # # # # # # # Dress Coat # # # # # # # Tail Coat # # # Mnring Coat # # # Frock: Coat # # # # # Great Coat # # # Men's Cover Coat # Berlin Model Coat # Shooting Coat # # # # # # Cantoon Coat # Drill Coat # # # # # # # M's Drill Military C # Fustian Coat # # # # # # Tm:ed Coat # # # # # # Alpaca Coat # # # # # # Unled Coat # # India Rubber Coat # # # Reversible Coat # # # # Velvet Coat # # # # # Gambroon Coat # Simdc Coat # # Cbesterfeild Coat # # # Oiled Coat # # # # # # Oil-skin Coat # # # # Waterproof Coat # # # # # # Pilot Coat # # # # # # # Dust Coat # # # Circassian Coat # Llnen Coat # # # # # Sac Coat Alpaca # # # # Sac Coat Lrnn #

4

Tm:ed Coat # Monkey Coat # Sho�f Cravenette Coat

# Silk Coat # # # Silk Oil Coat # Silk Golf Coat # Meltcm Coat # Holland Coat # # # Holland Motor Coat # Lustre Coat # Ladies Rain Coat # # L's Embroidered C. # L's Sac Coat # L's 3 quarter Coat # L's Motor Coat # Mannot Coat # Ladies Drill Coat * L's Tailor Made C. *

Collar # # # # # # # Muslin Collar # # # # # Lace Collar # # # # # # Mourning Collar # # # # # #

Corset # # # # # Double Back C. # Drab Corsets # Whalebone Corsets # # Net Corsets # # Net Ribbon Corsets # Satin Corsets # # # Twill Corsets # Straight Front C. # Erect Fonn Corset # Nursing Corsets # Broche Corsets # Broche Ribbcm C. # Maid's Corsets # Ribbon Corsets # with Srnmenders Low Bust Corsets # Ribbcm Corsets # Lattice Waist Ribbon (�mm,) C.

# Batiste RustproofC. # Warner RustproofC # Short Corsets #

5

'La Vida' Corsets # Costumes # # # #

Persian Costumes # Egyptian Costumes # Sicilian Costumes # CambricCostumes # # French Costumes # # Drill Costumes # # Zephyr Costumes # # Print Costumes # # L's Coat/Skirt Drill # # Ls Coat/Skirt Lustre # # L's Washing C. # # # L's Grass l.aVWl C. # # L's Serge Costumes # # L'a Boatiing C. # # L's Pique Costumes # Linen Costumes # Irish Linen C. # Embroidered Linen # Muslin Costumes # # Printed Muslin C. # Horal Muslin C. # Tailored Skirt/Coat # Paris Model Cost. # Delaine Costumes # Visiting Costumes # Coloured Linen Co. # Embroidered Linen # Rusman Style Cos. # Venetian Cloth C. # Face Cloth C. # Crash Costumes # Holland Costumes # Japanese Silk C. # Irish Crash C. # l.aVW1 Costumes # Voile Costumes # T\\eed Costumes # Princess Costumes # 2 Piece Bathing C. #

Crinoline (from 1859) # # # # Crinoline Steel # # # Fancy Crinoline # #

6

Divided Skirts # Silk Divided Skirts # Shot Mcreen D.S. #

Drawers # # # # # Lambs\\001 Draw. # # Elastic Draw:::rrs # Cotton l:>rav=s # Men's Dram:rs # Men's Cotton Dra. # Woolen Dram:rs # Kersey r:>rav=s # Ladies' Dram:rs #

Dresses # # # # # # # # Walking Dresses # # # # # # De Jaine Dress # # Alpaca Dress # # # # Satin Dresses # # # # # # # Satin/Net Dress * Muslin Dresses # # # # # # # Printed Muslin Dre. # # # # # # Coloured Muslin D. # # # # # Challi Dresses # Cambric Dresses # # Victma Dresses # French Dresses # French Beize Dress # Chintz Dresses # # Silk Dresses # # # # # # # Silk/Sequined Net * Woolen Dresses # # # # # # # Cashmere Dresses # # # # # Holland Dresses # # # # # # Printed Dresses # # # # # # # Delaine Dresses # # # # # # Balzarine Dresses # # Coloured Balzar. D. # Barege Dresses # Poplin Dresses # # # # # # India Worlced Dres. # Bayadere Dresses # Norwich Poplin # Norwich Dresses # Flounced Dresses # # # # # # Flounced Muslin D. # # # # #

7

Flounced Barege D. # Lustre Dresses # # Lawn Dresses # # # # # # # Mohair Dresses # Merino Dresses # # # # # # Lace Dresses # # # # # Camlet Dresses # Robe Dresses # # China Silk Dresses # # # Ladies Costwne D. # Welsh Homespun D # Scotch Llndsey D # L's Brocade Dress * Silk Bengaline D. * Duchesse Satin D. * Grenadine Dresses # Armure Royale D. *

Dressing Gown # # # # # # # # Chintz Dres. Gown # Men # # # # # # # Women # #

Dungaree -workmen's overall # # # # # # # Indian Blue Dunga. # Levi Strauss Dung. #

Evening Dress * * * * * * * * Men * * * * Women * * * * * * * *

Fichu # # # # # # # # Spanish Lace Fichu # Lama Fichu # Embroidered Fichu # # # # Fringe Fichu # # # # # # Chenille Fichu # Lace Fichu # # # # # # # Silk Frilled Fichu # # # Laoo'Chiffon Fichu *

Frock # # # # # # # # Men # # # # # # # Women # # # # # Ladies Grass Lawn * Ladies Lawn Frock * # Silk/Lace Frock * # Ladies Muslin F. * # Cashmere Frock *

8

Guernsey Frock # # # Baize Frock # Yarmouth Frock # Duck Frock # Printed Frock # # Satin Frodcs # Plaid Frocks # Zeph)T Frock

Zepb)TPinafore F

Delaine Frock

Linen Frock

Coloured Linen F

1 Piea: Velveteen F

L's Face ClothF.

Maids' Frocks # # Gariboldi Blouse

Gariboldi Shirt # Gown

Cosy Padded Gown

Muslin Gown

.zeph)T Gown

Chiffoo/ Silk Gown

Lace/Silk Gown

Brocade Gown

Gaze de Soie Gown

Grass Lawn Gown

Pompadour Gown

Crepon Silk Gown

M's Bath Gown

Guernsey # # # Cotton Guernsey # # # Woolen Guernsey # # # Serge Guernsey #

Hose # # Worsted Hose # Cotton Hose # # Lamb's VIOOl Hose # # Merino Hose # # Ladies' Hose

Ladies' Cotton Ho. # L's Lace Lisle Hose

Lace Embroidered

Lace Cotton Hose

Shetland Hose #

# # # #

# #

# # #

# #

# # #

# #

# # # # # # # #

#

# #

# # # #

#

* * * * * * *

#

# #

9

# # # # # # # #

# # # # # # # # #

#

#

# # # # #

I' kl · I �·j ,,;1 I

HalfHose # # # # # Spunsilk Half Hose # Merino HalfHose # Cotton Half Hose # Cotton Hose # Cashmere Hose # Cashmere HalfH. # # Worsted HalfHose # Lambs\\UOl HalfH. #

Inverness --onter garment with deep cape # # Jacket # # # # # # # #

Flushing Jadcet # # PeaJadcet # # # # Reefer Jacket # Men's Pilot Reefer # Eton Jadcet # # Polka Jadcet # # # Scarbocough Jae. # Dinner Jacket # # # Pilot Jacket # # # # Ladies' Jacket # # # # # # L's Tea Jacket # # Ladies Guth Jadcet # Ladies' Velvet Jae. # # # # Ladies Tm:ed J. # # Fustian Jadcet # # # # # # # # Moleskin Jadcet # # # # # # # Seal Skin Jadcet # JeanJadcet # Gambrooo. Jadcet # Racing Jacket # Worsted Jadcet # # LareJadcet # # # # # # Alexandra Wool J. # # Alexandra Jacket # Garibaldi Jadcet # Lawn Jacket # # # # # Alpaca Jadcet # # Holland Jacket # # # # # Melton Cloth Jadcet # Cballi Jacket # Spencer Jadcet # # Paget Jadcet # Silk Jadcet # # # # #

1 0

Grass Cloth Jadcet

Matalasse Jacket

Bemouse Jacket

Ladies Alexandra J.

Woollen Jacket

Ladies Eton Jacket

Blouse Jadcet

Monkey Jadcet # # # L's Walking Jadcet

L's Tailer-made J.

L'sT-mJ. Beaver

L's Fawn Cloth J.

Velvet Collared J.

L's Tight Fitting Short Jadcet L's Dressing Jacket

French Model J.

Faced Cloth Jadcet

L's Crash Jacket

Linen Crash Jadcet

Sac Jadcet

Llnsey Jacket # Jerseys

Football Jerseys

L's Knitted GolfJ.

Jumpers

Petersham Jumpers

Dungaree Jumpers

Dude Jumpers

Knickerbockers

Knicker Suits

Militmy K. s. Diagooal K. s.

VelveteenK. S.

SergeK. s. Sailcr K. S.

T\W.ed K. S.

Leggings # CordLeg,ging5 # Alpaca Waterpuof # WaterpuofLeggi.

Oil-skin Leg,ging5

Mantle # Glace Mantle # Dolmain Mantle

# # # # # #

# # #

#

# # # #

# #

# # #

# # # # # # #

#

# * #

# #

# #

#

# # # # # # #

#

1 1

#

#

# # # # # # # # # # # #

#

# #

# #

>I,'

Ii , j !j

' I

Silk Mantle # # # # # Lace Mantle # # # # Satin Mantle # # # # # Velvet Mantle # # # # Mohair Mantle # Fancy Mantles # # Challi Mantles # Caslnnere Mantles # Tweed Mantles # # # Muslin Mantles # # # # Wateqniof Mantle # # Plush Mantles #

Mantillas # French Mantillas # Berlin Mantillas # Spanish Lace Man. #

Mackintosh -robber over coat # # # # # Ladies Mackintosh # # # Maids Mackintosh # # #

Maids Clothing # # # # # # # Maids ooe piece dre # # # Woo! Jecseys # Tweed Coats # # # # Wool Dutch Bonnet # Silk Dresses # # Muslin Dresses # Voile Dresses # # Mackintoshes # #

Mining Jumpers # Mourning Dress # # # # # # Neckwear # # # # # # # #

Broad End Ties # Paris Ties # Tubular Tie # Scarf-Silk # Cravat # # # # # # # # Worsted Cravat # Muslin Cravat # # # Beaufort Cravat # # Silk Cravat # # # # # # #

ii

Lace Cravat # # # Foxaline Cravat # Necberchief # # Neckerchief Silk # #

12

Nedcerch. Gingham # Nedcerchief Cotton # NedcerchiefTwill # Nedctie # Ladies' Nedc Ties # Ladies' N.T. Silk # Ladies'N.T.Velvet # Ladies' Fancy Ties # L's Silk Fringe Ties

Muslin Embroid T.

Fancy Ties

Satin Ties # Ribbon Ties # Aeriel Ties # Beaufort Ties # Regent Ties

Black Regent Ties

Fancy Regent Ties

ScarfNedc Ties

Nedclets

Woolen Nedclets

Fur Nedclets

Foxline Fur Nedclet

Marmot Nedclets

Hare Nedclets.

Smdced Hare N. With Claws/I ails Russian Hare N.

Foxaline Nedclets

Stone Marten N.

Real Squirrel N.

Russian Squirrel N.

Coney Seal Nedclet

Real Mole Nedclet

Opera Ties # Welch MargestsonT

Bows

M's Silk Ties

Silk Derby Ties

Silk Oxford Ties

Silk Reversible T.

Lace Ties

Net Lace Ties

Muslin Ties

Crepe De Chine T.

# # # # # # # # # # # # # #

# # # # # # # #

# # # # #

# # # # # #

#

13

#

# # #

#

#

# # # # #

# # # # # # #

# # # # # # # # # #

I

, , ,

<:!

,,, ;':

�i

"< ,,,i Ii

, 11 ,I d · · i :!I

Knitted Ties

Guipture Neckband

Night Clothes/ Night Wear # # Men

M's fyjama Suits

M's Cottcm fyjarna

WOII)f;!ll # # Ladies Flannelette

fyjamas

Ceylon fyjamas

China Silk Nigbtdr

Overalls

Amazon Overalls

Embroidered 0.

American Copper -riverted -Crash Overalls

Overcoat # # Men # WOII)f;!ll

Pilot Cloth Overoo. # Men's Gladston 0.

Men's Tm:ed 0.

M's Caped Overc.

M's Waterproof 0.

Overskirt

Wmcey Overskirt

Alpaca Overskirt

WooI Overskirt

Lustre Overskirt

Pantaloons # # Pants

Men's R.J."bbed Pants

Tm:edPants

Pelerine -short cape with pendant ends

Silk Pelerine

Chiffin Pelerine

Paletot -very full jacket worn over crinoline # # # Paletot Coat # # Tm:ed Paletot

Pelisse -women's mantle # # # Jean Pelisse #

Petticoat # # # Corded Petticoat # #

# # # # #

# # # # #

# # #

# # #

# #

# # # # # #

# #

# # #

# # # # # #

# # #

# # # #

# # #

# # # # #

# # #

1 4

# # # # # # # # # #

#

# # # #

#

# #

#

# # # # # # #

#

#

''1

ii 'i I,

• ':I ' I

: i

Loogcloth Petticoat # Unbleached Elastic # # # # # # Tucked Petticoat # # # # # Braided Petticoat # # # # # Steel Petticoat # # Embroidered Petti. # # # # # Hooie-bair Petticoat # # # Wmsey Petticoat # # Natural Wool P. # Deep Frilled P. # Hoq> Petticoat # Princess Petticoat # Embroidered Code #

From/ W,JJiam Carter, London, Advertisement Coloured Lace/Net # 'The Inquirer' 29 May 1861, ppl Watch Spring Steel #

White Lace/Net # Aloreen Petticoat # Linsey-Wolsey # Winsey Petti. # Crinoline Petticoat # Flute/Tuck/Floun .. # Quilted Alpaca P # Silk Petticoat # Satin Petticoat #

Pinafore # # # # # # Diaper Pinafoce #

� Holland Pinafoce # # # # Muslin Pinafoce # # # # Embroiderd Muslin # # # # Muslin /Lace P. # # Nainsook Pinafoce # # # # Pinafoce Costwne #

Polka Jacket # # Melbowne Polka # Canadian Polka # Perth Polka # Victman. Polka #

Polonaise # Ready-made Clothing # # # # # # # #

Men # # # # # # # # Women # # # # # # # # Dresses # # # # # # # #

Riding Costumes # # # # # # Men's RidingPants # # # # # #

15

Robes # # # # # # Muslin Robes # # # # # # Printed Muslin Ro. # # # Seamless Robes # Corded Robes # Gingham Robes # Bounced Robes # # Boun=i Alpaca # Balz.arine BOUIL R # Silk Robes # # # # # Printed Barege Ro. # Embroidered Robes # # # Emb. Linen Box R # Velvet Robe # Velveteen Robe # Lace Robe # LinenRobe # Shantung Linen R # Crepe Robe # Foulard Robe # Tussore Silk Robe # French Cashmere R # Ninon Voile Border # Pq,lin Robes # Tamboured Tuck R # Princess Robe # # # # FrenchRobe # # Moming Robe # # L's Cambric Robe #

Sacks # Victoria T\WOO Sa #

Sailor Suits # # Double Breasted # #

Scarf # # # # # # # Muslin Scarf # # # # # # Muslin Embro. s. # # # # Meas Satin Scarf # # # # # Barege Scarf # Silk Scarf # # # # # Mohair Scarf # # Gauz.e Scarf # Shepherd Plaid s. # Woolen Scarf # # # Men's Woolen S. # # #

1 6

Cambric Scarf # Net Scarf # Lace Scarf # Chiffoo Scarf # Crepe De Chine S. #

Shawl # # # # # # # Cashmere Shawl # # # # # Paisley Shawl # # # # # Nocwich Shawl # # # # # Lace Shawl # # # # # # Pusher Lace Shawl # # Net Shawl # # # Woolen Shawl # # # # # # Scotch Wool Shawl # # Satin Shawl # # # # # # Plaid Shawl # # # Shepher' Plaid S. # Califcxnian Shawl # Barege Shawl # # Printed Barege S. # Crepe Shawl # # # # Gossimers Shawl # Barege Shawl # # China Shawl # # # Coloured Shawl # Printed Shawl # # Lama Shawl # # HalfShawl # Spanish Shawl # Spanish Lace Shawl # Silk Shawl # # #

Shirt # # # # # # # Pique Shirt Blouse # Pique Shirt # Baize Shirt # # Woolen Shirt # # # # # # Saxony Woolen S. # Crimean Shirt # # # # # Fancy Crimean Shi. # Imitatioo Crimean S # Lamb's VIOOl Shirt # Merino Shirt # # # # # # Galatea Shirt # # Regatta Shirt # # # # # # #

1 7

Serge Shirt # # # # # # Cotton Shirts # # # # # # # Linen Shirts # # # # # # # Sootdi Twilled Sh. # # F1orentine Shirts # # # Byzantine Shirts # Worsted Shirts # # # # # F1armel Shirts # # # # # Flannelette Shirt # # # # Jean Shirts # Celtic Shirt # Magdala Shirt # # Dress Shirt # # # # # Men's Silk Shirt # # # # M's Clrina Silk S. # L's Japanese Silk S # Double Warp Shirt # Oxfcrd Shirt # # # # Linsey Shirt # Crepe Shirt # # T� Shirt # # # # # # Felt Shirt # # Cambric Shirt # Pompadour Shirt # # Harvard Shirt # Sateen Shirt # Twill Shirt # # # M's Wcxking Shirts # Drandr:ill Wcxking # Matti Shirts # Silk Stripe Shirts # Ccrd Shirt # Cellular Day Shirt # Cellular Dress Shirt # M's Tennis Shirt # M's Silk Tennis S. # M's Sicilian TS # M's Cashmere # Termis Shirt M's Golf Shirt # M's Broche Shirt # Ttmic Shirt-Zephyr #

Shooting Coat # # T� Shooting C. # # Doeskin Shooting C #

18

Alpaca Shooting C. # Shooting Frock #

Beaverteen S F # Cantooo S F #

Singlets # # # # # # Wool Singlets # L's Wool Ribbed S. # M's Wool Singlets # M's Shetland Wool # Netted Singlets # Cotton Singlets # Indian Gauze S. # M's Balbriggan S. # Merino Singlets # # # # # # flannel Singlets # # # Ribbed Singlets #

Skirt # # # # # Balmoral Skirt # Camlet Skirt # Bertha Skirt # Wmsey Skirt # # # Covered Crinoline s # # Quilted Skirt # Wool Skirt # # # Knitted Skirt # Lustre Skirts # # L's Walking Skirt # # L's Holland Walkin # l\.fuslin Skirt # # # # # T"IM:ed Skirt # # # # # Crash Skirt # Linen Crash Skirt # Emhroidered Linen # Irish Crash Skirt # Holland Skirt # # # # # La� Skirt # # # # # Tussore Silk Skirt # Linen Skirt # # # # # Organdi Skirt # Bishop La� Skirt # Voile Skirt # Sicilian Skirt # Broderie Anglaise # Linen Skirt Cashmere Skirt * *

19

j i

# Embroidered/Pleat # Embroid/Gathered # Nader Skirt # Walking Skirt # T"\\eed Walking S. # Moreen Skirt # Silk Skirt # # # Drill Skirt * # Poplin Skirt # # # # Moire Velours Skirt * Flounced Skirt *

Slip Bodies # # Slops # # # # # # # # Sporting Costume # # # # # # #

Shooting Coat # # # # # Crash Tennis Suit # Ladies Riding Habit # # #

Stays # # # # # # Lavender Stays #

From/ William Carter, London , Advertisement Coloured Stays # 'The Inquirer" 29 May 1861 pp 1 White Stays # # # #

Front Fastening B. # Coloured Satteen # White Satteen # German Stays # Paris Stays #

Stole # Lace Stole # Silk Stole # Chiffon Stole # Mannot Stole # Foxline Stole # Sealette Stole # Coque Feather Stole # Tasseled Tinsel # Ribbon Stole Caracul Stole #

Suits # # # # # Men # # # # # Men's T"\\eed Suits # # # # # Men's Galatea Suits # # # Men's Paget Suits # Men's Walking Suit # # # Men's Corkscrew S #

20

Men's Crimean S. # # # # M's Mohair Suit # M's Crash Suits # Tailor Made Suits # # # M's Slop Made Suit # Fancy Doe Suits # # # # Diagooa1 Se£ge s # flannel Suits # # Se£ge Suits # # Ballarat Se£ge Suits # Sac Suits # Melange Suits # M's Sunnner Suits # Linen Crash Suits # Crash Suits # M's Corlcscrew S. # Silk Suits # # T usscre Silk Suit # # M's Camel Hair S. # As.sain Silk Suits # Poplin Suit # M's Patrol Dude S. # Dr. Jaeger's # Militarv Collar Suit Galatea Duke of # Yorlc Suits Galatea Suits # Se£ge Sac Suits # # Diagooal Indigo s.s # # Sateen Suits # # Drill Suits # # Holland Suits # Worsted Suits # # Scotcli Tweed Sac S # Khaki Suits # # Khaki Dude Suits # flannel Cricketing # # Cheviot Suits *

Women

Sweaters # # Men's S� # M's Wool S� # Men's Fancy Sweat. # Men's Plain Sweat. #

Tailor Made Suits # # #

21

Tea Gown # # # Acccroeon Pleated # French Tea Gown # Crepe Voile Tea G. # Surah Silk Tea G. #

Trousers/Trowsers # # # # # # # # Pea Trousers # Kerseymere Trou. # Stockmit Trousers # Duck Trousers # # # # # # # # Moleskin Trousers # # # # # # # # Drill Trousers # # # # # # # # ColouredDrill T. # # # # # # # Fustian Trousers # # # # # # # # Black Cloth Trouse. # # Jean Trousers # # # Duck Trousers # # # # # # # # Corderoy Trousers # # # # # # # Flushing Trousers # Lamertine Trousers # Gambroon Trousers # # # # Linen Trousers # # # # # # # # Buckskin Trousers # Cantoon Trousers # # # # # # T"\W.ed Trousers # # # # # # Scotch T"\W.ed T. # # Geelong T"\W.ed T. # Pilot Trousers # # Cord Trousers # # # # # Bedford Cord T. # # # # # Doeskin Trousers # # Plaid Trousers # # # # Angola Trousers # Mole (animal) Trou. # # # # # # Coloured Mole T. # # # Canvas Trousers # # # # # # Cotton Cord Trous. # # Cotton Worsted T. # # Serge Trousers # # Ballarat Serge T. # Dungaree Trousers # # # # # # # Crash Trousers # Linen Crash T. # Denham Trousers #

22

Heavy Denim T. # Melange Trousers # Wool Worsted T. # Worsted Trousers # Canvas Duck T. # NZ Hannel T. # Cricketing Hannel # Tussore Silk T. # Bengaline Silk T # Stripe Athletic T # Camel Hair Trouser #

Tonie # # # Tunic Dress #

Ulster # # # :Men's Ulster # # # Heavy T\W:ed U. # Ladies Ulster # # # Ladies T\W:ed U. # Maid's T\W:ed U. # Maid's Ulster # Silk Ulster #

Underskirts # # Cambric Underskirt # Jaeger's Underskirt # Coloured Frilled U. # Glace Silk Undersk. # Cardinal Underskirt # Print Underskirt # Embroidered us # Tucked Underskirt # Sateen Underskirt # Satin Underskirt # Melton Cloth US # Batiste Underskirt # Coloured Batiste U. # Longcloth us #

Undershirts # # # # Men's Undershirts # # M's Hannel Under. #

Undervests # # L's Ribbed Underv. # L's Coloured U.V. # L's Wool Undervest #

Underwear/Lingerie # # # # # # # #

23

Men's # # # # # # # # Silk� # # Wool � # # Undershirt/Pant # # Merino US/P # # India Gauze US/P # Laml:Js\.\001 US/P # # Jaeger's US/P # Cashmere US/P # Spunsilk US/P # Flannel US/P # # # # Cottcxi US/P # Women's # # # # # # # # Knid«rs # # flannelette Knicker # # Calioo Knickers # L's American K # Flanne. Under Vest # F. Night Dresses # # L's Embroidered L. # L's Wool Spencers # Indian Silk Underc. #

Veil # # # # # # # Lare Veil # * Nun's Veiling # Silk Gossamer Veil # Silk Ninon Veil # hnitation Brussels Appliaue Veiliru!

# Men's Veil # Chiffon Veil # Crepe De Chine V. # Motor Veil # Heimtitched Crepe de Chine Motor v. # Jap. Silk Motor Veil # :Rus&an Net Veiling # Silk Net Veil #

Vest # # # # # # # Mens Washing Vest # # Satin Vest # # # # # # # Merino Vest # # # # # # Lamb's '\\001 Vest # # M's flannel Vest # # M's Uned Vest #

24

M's Single Breasted # # M's Double Breast # M's Washing Vest # Fancy Vest # # # # # # Tweed Vest # # # # # # Cashmere Vest # # Cotton Vest # # # # # # Valencia Vest # Plush Vest # Silk Vest # # # # Riding Vest # # Indian Gauze Vest # Marseilla Vest # Knitted Outside V # Ladies' Vest # # # # Ladies Woolen Vest # L's Ribbed Vest # L's Ribbed Wool V. # L's Cotton Vest # L's Merino Vest # Ladies Cbiflon Vest * L's atlffon Tucked * L's Embroidered V. *

Visittes -sleeveless or part sleeve cape or mantle # Waistcoat # # # # # #

Men # # # # # # Valentia Waist Coat # # # Lawn Waistcoat # # Drill Waistcoat # # # Satin Waistcoat # # # # # # Marsella Waistcoat # Tweed Waistcoat # # # # # # Fancy Waistcoat # # # Angola Waistcoat # # Doeskin Waistcoat # # # # Silk Waistcoat # # # Alpaca Waistcoat #

Walking Costume # # # # # # * Wraps # # # # #

Fancy Wraps # # Morning Wraps # # Wool Wraps # # # # Flannelette Wraps # #

25

Cashmere Wraps # Washing Print W. # Print Wrappers # Foulard Wrapper # Oriental Kimonas # Cambric Wrappers #

Fabrics/Textiles 1829-1914

Alpaca # # # # # # Coloured Alpaca # # # # Black Alpaca # # # Silk Stripe Alpaca # Fancy Alpaca #

Barege # # # Batiste # Bayadere # Beaver # Beige # #

Wool Beige # Bodkin

Beaverteen # French Beaver #

Bombasine/Bombauen # Broadcloth # #

Black Broadcloth # Brocaded Materials # Calico Bleached # # # # # # # #

Unbleached # # # # # # # Camlet # # # # Cantoon # # # Canvas # # # # # # # Cheese Cloth # # #

Challis # # # # Chiffon # #

Silk Chiffon # # l\1uslin Chiffon # Pleated Chiffon # Tucked Chiffon #

26

Chintz # # # # # # # # Art Chintz #

Cord # # # # Russel Cord # # Persian Cord # Riding Cord # Bedford Cord # # #

Cotton # # # # # # # # Calico # # # # # # # # Cambray # # Cottonade # # Dimity # # # # # # Galatea # # # # Gingham # # # # # # Derry Gingham # Hickory Cloth # Jacooet # # # # # Moleskin # # # # # # # Printed Moleskin # # # # # # Muslin # # # # # # # # Regatta # # Ticking # # # # # # # Printed Cotton # # # # # # # # Cotton Cashmere #

Crash # # # Russia Crash # # #

Crepe # # # # # # # China Crepe # # Norwich Crepe # Black Crepe # # # # # # Bahnoral Crepe # Victocia Crepe # French Crepon # # Coloured Crepon # # Wool Crepon # # Silk Crepon # # Col. Cotton Crepon # Crimped Crepon # Crepe De Chine # #

Cretonnes # # # # Reversible Cretonne # #

Crochet Laces # # # Counterpanes # # # # # # # Damask # # # # # # #

27

Linen Damask # # Union Damask # #

Delaine # # # # # # French Delaine # # # # Cotton Delaine # Caslnnere Delaine # Satin Delaine # UnionDenim #

Diaper # # # Damask Diaper # Nursery Diaper # Cotton Diaper # Linen Diaper # # Pinafore Diaper #

Doeskin # # # # # # Drab #

Drab Cotton Cord # Drab Jean #

Drill # # # # # # # # American Drill # Linen Drill # # # # Cotton Drill # # # # Coloured Cotton D. #

Ecarte # Printed Ecarte #

Flannel # # # # # # # # Welsh Flannel # # # # # # # hnitation Welsh F. # Saxony Flannel # # Coloured Flannel # # # # # Cricketing Flannel # # # # Crimean Flannel # # # Scarlet Flannel # # # # Saxony Flannel # # # # Lawn Tennis F. # Ceylon Flannel # # Hoog Kong Flannel # French Twill F. # French Flannel #

Flannelettes # # Tartan Flannelettes # Reversible Flannel. #

Fustian # # # # # # # # Gambroon # # # # #

28

Coloured Gambro. # # Gauze # # # # # # #

China Gauze # # # # Paris Gauze # # Silk Gauze # # #

Gingham # # # # # # # French Gingham # # # Carlisle Gingham #

Grass Cloth # # # # # # Grenadine # # # #

Nocwich Grenadine # Broche Grenadine #

Hessians # # House Hessians #

Homespuns # # Imitation Skins # # # # #

Imitation Bear skm # # # Imitation Seal Skin # # # # # Imitation Raccoon # # Imitation Badger S. # # Imitation Silver Fox # # Imitation Musquash # #

Jean # # # # Striped Jean # Drab Jean # #

Jersey # # Coloured Jersey # Cardinal Jersey #

Khaki # # Knitted Fabrics # # # Lace # # # # # # # #

Bobbin Lace # # # # Pillow Lace # # # # # Honitoo Lace # # Fringe Lace # Drillettes Lace # Bretoone Lace # Stay Lace # # # Black Lace # # # # # White Lace # # # # # Nottingham Lace # # Blond # # # # # # # # French Lace # # # # # # Irish Lace # # #

29

Chantilly Lace # # # Antique Lace # Mauresque Lace # Gtriper l.ace # # # Valenciennes Lace # # # # # Spanish Lace # Onis l.ace # Bodine Lace # Wide Laces # # Net Laces # Ceylon Hand-made Lace (1913)

# Torchon Lace # Linen Torchon L #

Renaissance Lace # Clunyl.aces #

Lama # # # # Printed Lama # # # Mexico Lama #

Leather # # # # # # Chanris Skins # # # Swan Skin # # # American Leather # English Leather # # # # Colonial Leather # # # #

Linen # # # # # # # # Book Llnen # # # # # # # Lawn # # # # # # # Irish Lawn # # # # # # Victoria Lawn # # Cambric # # # # # # # French Cambric # Spot Cambric # Printed Cambric # # # # Scotch Cambric # # Eml:roidered Camb. # Duck # # # # # # # Russia Duck # # # # American Duck # # # Military Duck # Bleached Duck # Cotton Duck # # # # Holland # # # # # # Irish Linen # # # # # # # # Ulster Linen #

30

Table Linen # # # # # # # India Linen # # Osnaburgh # # # # # # Dowlas # # # # # # Irish Dowlas # # # # Llnenettes #

Linsey Woolseys # # # # Lining # # # # # # #

Glaz.ed Llning # Selisia Llning # # # # # # Reversible Lining # Rustle Lining # Swans Down Lin. # #

Lustres # # # # # Shot Lustres # #

Madras -Striped or checked muslin # Melange #

Sicillim Melange # Mohair # # #

Fancy Mohair # # # Mousselines de Jaine # # Muslin # # # # # # # #

Organdie # # # # # # French Organdie # FJ(I'3.). Organdie M # Organza # Tarlatan # # # # # # Coloured Tarlatan # # # # # French Tarlatan # # Nainsook # # # # # # # Tud{ed Nainsook # Book Muslin # # # # # # # # Mull # # # # # # Printed l\fuslin # # # # # # # # French Printed M # Stripe l\fuslin # # # # # Lare Stripped M # FJ(I'3.). Stripe l\fuslin # Coloured l\fuslin # # # # # # # Swiss l\fuslin # # # # # # Swiss Spot l\fuslin # Coloured French M # # # # # French Printed M # Embroidered Mus. # # # # # #

31

Dacca Muslin # # Plain Art Muslin # # Figured Art Muslin # Robe Muslin # Hailstone Muslin # Chene Pongu M # Floral Fongu M # Check Muslin # Floral Muslin # Madras Muslin # Oriental Muslin # Harness Muslin #

Nankin/Nankeen # # # # # # Panama Cloth # Pilot Cloth # # # # # # Pique # #

Fancy Pique # Coloured Pique # #

Plaid # # # # # # Scotch Plaid # # # # # Gala Plaid # # Fancy Palid # Shepherd's Plaid # # # # Woolen Plaid # # Tartan Plaid #

Plush # # Pompadour # Pongees -unbleached Chinese Silk # Poplin # # # #

Knicker Poplin # # # # Fancy Poplin # #

Prints # # # # # # # Hoyles Prints # # # # # # Embossed Prints # # # # Fancy Prints # # # # Cotton Prints # # # # # # # Lilac Prints # Pompadour Prints # # # Darl<: Prints # # # # # # # Blousing Prints # # Indigo Prints # Cramer's Prints # Persian Prints # Egyptian Prints #

32

Crum's Prints # Washing Prints #

Reppes # Sateen # # # #

Coloured Sateen # # Printed Sateeen # # Brocaded Sateen # # #

Satin # # # # # # # Damask # # # # # # # Foulard # # Pooipadour # # # Stripe Satin # # # # French Satin # Victoria Satin # Brodie Satin # # # # # Satinette # # # # #

Serge # # # # # # Camel Hair Serges # # # Plain Serge # # Diagonal Serge # # # # Wool Serge # # Art Serge # Cheviot Serge # Coating Serge # Ribbed Serge #

Shirting # # # # # # # # India Shirting # # # # Striped Shirting # # # # # #

Silk # # # # # # Grenadine # # # Taffeta # Chiffon Taffeta # Sarsenet/ Sarsnet # # # # # # Persian Silk # # # # # # Gossamer Silk # # # # # Coloured Gossamer # # # # # Coloured Silk # # # # # Japanese Silk # # # # Ccrded Silk # # # # Paris Silk # # # # Foulls Silk # # Brodie Silk # # Shot Silk # # Surali Silk # #

33

Brocaded Silk # # # Tussore Silk # Shantung Silk # l.ouisins Silk # Twill Silk # Stripe Silk # # # Oiled Silk # Black Silk # # # #

Swans-downs # # # # Taffeta (from 1905) #

Wool Taffeta # Ticking # # # # # # #

Cotton Ticking # # # # # # # Linen Ticking # # # # # # # Belgium Ticking #

Tulle # # # # # Silk Tulle # # # # # Frosted Tulle # White Tulle # # # #

Twill # # # # # # # Scotch Twill # # # Turlcey Twill # # # Printed Twill # # # # Cambridge Twill # Harvard Twill # Fancy Twill # Balkan Twill #

Velvet # # # # # # # Chiffon # # Corduroy # # # # Velveteen # # # Coloured Velveteen # # # T\Wed Velveteen # Silk Finish Velvetee # Silk Velvet # # # # # # # Cotton Velvet # # # # # Coloured Velvet # # # # # # Rl"bbon Velvet # # # German Velvet # French Velvet # Brodie Velvet # Shot Velvet # # Satin Brodie #

Voile #

34

Cotton Voile # Printed Cotton V. # Silk Voile # Embroidered Voile # French Voile # French Silk Voile # Canvas Voile # Chiffon Voile # Printed Chiffon V. # Satin Voile # Shadow Chiffon V # Taffeta Voile # Canvas Voile #

Winsey/Wincey # # # # # Abenleen Wmsey # # #

Wool # # # # # # # # Ki:rseym:re # # # # # # # Crepe # # # # # # Shetland Wool # Andalusian Wool # Tweed # # # # # # # Sootch Tweed # # /

WitneyTweed # Foule Tweed # Diagonal Tweed # # # # West Of England T. # # Bannockburn Tm:. # Geelong Tweed # Waterproof Tweed # Cheveraux Tweed # Grampion Tweed # French Dress T. # Flaked Dress T. # Zibeline Tweed # Confetti Tweed # Tufted Tweed # Flannel # # # # # # # Merino English # # # # # French Merino # # # # # SilkMerino # # # # # # Coloured Merino # # # # # Black Merino # # # Cassimere # # Baize # # #

35

PrinteclBaiz.e # Oil Baiz.e # # # # # Printed Oil Baiz.e # American Oil Baiz.e # Estamene # Petersham # German Wool # Berlin Wool # # # # Saxony Cloth Print. # Saxony Cloth # Melton Ooth # # # # # Twilled Tmm Mel # French Cachmeres # # # Cashmeres # # # Cottoo Cashmeres #

Zephyrs # # # Silk Zephyrs # # Check Zephyrs # # # Printed Zephyrs # # # Plisse Zephyrs # #

/ Pongee Zephyrs # Sootch Zephyrs # Plain Zephyr #

Haberdasheries, Accessories, Decorations, Techniques 1829-1914

Beads * * # #

Belts # # # # # # # "Merl # # # # # # # Women # # # Ladies' Waist Belts # # # # # Ladies Bead Belts # # L's Elastic Belts # L's Leather Belts # L's Embossed Leather Belts

# L's Kid Belts # Ladies Satin Belts * Ladies Velvet Belt *

36

Leather Belts # # # # Fancy Belts # Elastic Belts # # # # # Cricket Belts # # # # Silk Belts # # Silver Belts # Gilt Buckled Belts # Expanding Belts # Expanding Silk Belt # Oriental Belts # Expanding Belts # Ernbroid Linen B #

Bindings # # Bows # #

Laa: 80\w # # Silk Bows # SatinBows # Gents' &Ms #

Buttons # # # # # # # Shirt Buttons # # # # # # # Silk Buttons # # #

- Gilt Buttons # # # # . Cotton Buttons # Pearl Buttons # # # # # # Spangle Buttons # # Dress Buttons # # # # # # Vest Buttons # # # # Fancy Vest Buttons # Drop Buttons # Brace Buttons # # # # Metal Buttons # # # # # # Linen Buttons # # # # # # Holland Buttons # Coat Buttons # # # # # F1exible Buttons # Steel Buttons # # Fancy Buttons # # # # # Jet Buttons # Crochet Buttons # Crochet Linen B. # Crochet Silk B. #

Braid # # # # # # # Gimps # # # # # # # Bead Gimps #

37

Chenille Gimps # Silk: Gimps # Crochet Braid # Russian Braid # # # # # # Fancy Braid # Silk Braid # # # # # Mohair Braid # # # Elzarine Braid #

" Worsted Braid # # # Angola Braid # Cotton Wove Braid # # Skirt Braid # Military Braid # Excelsior Braid # Hooitrn Braid # Gold Braid # # # Silver Braid # Tartan Braid # Tubular Braid # Braid Ties #

Buckles # # # # * * #

Steel Buckles # # Gold Buckles #

Collar # # # # # # # Gents' Collar # # # # # # Ladies' Collar # # # # # M's Polo Collar # Lace Collar # # # # # # # Dress Collar # # # # # # # Muslin Collar # # # # # # # Worlced Muslin Co. # # Cambric Collar # # # # # Crochet Collar # L's Jaconet Collar # Rich Worlced Collar # Victoria Collar # Crape Collar # # # # Gauze Collar # # # # # Mourning Collar # # # # # Linen Collar # # # # # Foulard Linen C # Military Collar # # Ladies' Military C. # #

38

L's Embroid Golf # L's Linen GolfC. # Paper Collar Men's # # # # Paper Collar Wome. # # # # West End Collar # Bead Collar # # Shirt Collar # # # # Stiff Collar # # Men's Collar # # # Men's Dux Collar # Duke OfYork C. # Peter Pan Collar # Embroid Peter Pan # Dollar Princess C. # Stock Collar # American Drill C # American Pique C #

Collarette # # # # Wool Collarette # Lace Collarette # # # Muslin Collarette # Grass Lawn C. # Paris Edel\\ciss C. #

Cord # # # # # Cotton Cord # Fancy Cord # Piping Cord # # Persian Cord #

Cuffs # # # # # Ladies' Cuffs # # # Worked Muslin Cu. # Woolen Cuffs # # # Dress Cufls # L's tudced Bretoone # Net Cuffs L's Jaconet Cuffs #

Elastic # # # # # Embroidery #

Applique * * * * * Ayn.hire Work * * * * * * Back Stitch * * * * * * * * Berlin Work * * * * * * Berlin Patterns # Broaderie Anglaise * * * * * * * * Buttonhole Stitch * * * * * * * *

39

Chain and Cable S. * * * * * * * * lliding * * * * * * * * Cross stitch * * * * * * * * Cut Worlc * * * * * * * * Drami Tread Worlc * * * * * * * * Hem Stitch * * * * * * * * Herringbooe Stitch * * * * * * * * Knots * * * * * * * * Needle Weaving * * * * * * * * Quilting * * * * * * Satin Stitch * * * * * * * * Shadow Embr. * * * * * * * * Smoking * * * * * * * * Stem Stitch * * * * * * * * Straight Stitch * * * * * * * * Running Stitch * * * * * * * * Eyelet embroidery * * * * * * * * Feather/Furn/F1y S. * * * * * * * * Embroide. Patterns * * * * * * * * Je1M:led E. * * Cambric E. # Hannelette E. #

Fall -pendant form or decoration in dress lace/silk # # # # # Lace Falls # # # # # Blood Falls # # # Gauze Falls # # # Shetland Wool Falls # Black Lace Falls # # Crape Falls # # # Mohair Falls # Beaded Falls # Gossamer Falls # # #

Feathers # # # # # # # Ostrich Feathers # # # * Ostrich- White # Ostrich- Black # # # # French Feathers #

Flounce # # # # # # Book Houncing # # Cambric Houncing # # Jaconet Houncing # Coloured Stamped # Muslin Houncing # # # Lace Houncing # # #

40

Flowers

Frilling

Fringe

Fronts

Furs

Garnlture -ornament or trimming added to clothing

Spanish Flouncing

Oriental Flouncing

Embroidered F.

Net Flouncing

Tulle Flouncing

Mourning Flowers

French English Flo.

T arlatan Frilling

Tulle Frilling

Cambric Frilling

Muslin Frilling

Pleated Frilling

Lace Frilling

Lace Sleeve Frilling

Silk Fringe

Cotton Fringe

German Fringe

WOOlted Fringe

Dimity Fringe

Helena Fringe

Wool Fringe

Royal Marathon F.

Coloured Fringe

Shot Fringe

Fancy Fronts

Muslin Waterfull F.

Chamois Skin

Swan Skin

Doeskin

Beaver

hnitation Seal Skin

Foxaline Furs

Sealett.e ( 1912)

Mole Sealett.e 1912

Curl Beaver (1912)

Edging

# # # # # #

#

# # # #

* # #

# # # *

# # # # # # # # # #

# # # # #

# # #

# # # # # # #

# * # #

# # # # # # # # # # # # # # #

# # # # #

# # # # # # # # # #

# # # #

# # # # # # # # # # # # #

# # # # # # # # # # # #

# # # # #

# # # # # # # # # #

41

LaceEdging # # * Cambric Edging # Insertion # # # # # * # Muslin Edging # Insertion Lace # # # # # # # Insertion Muslin # # # Insertion Net # Torchon Insertion # Cotton Torchon I. # Insertion Cambric # # # # Guipure Insertion # Guipture Applique I # Paris lnsertion # Net Insertion # Filet Insertion # Embroidery I. # Chenille Girdle #

Handkerchiefs # China Silk: H # Indian Silk H # Cambric Pocket H #

Hook and Eye # # # Jabot #

Lace Jabot # Muslin Jabot # Silk Jabot # Net Jabot # Lawn Jabot # Satin Jabot # Silk/Lace Jabot # #

Jewels # Jewel Pearl # Leather # # # # # Medallions

French Applique M # Modesty Piece -frill attach to the corset

Net # # # # # # Cotton Net # # # # # Black Net # # # # # White Net # # # # # Paris Net # Sequined Net # # Face Net # &lgcH;pot Face Net #

42

Fall Net # Bretoone Net # Point d'Espit Net #

Paper Patterns # Pearls # # Pleat * * * * * * * *

Knill: edged Pleat. * * * * * * * * Box pleating * * * * * * * * Inverted Pleating * * * * * * * *

Plumes # # # # # Ostrich Plumes # # # # #

Pocket

Breast * * * * * * Hip * * * * * * Patch * * * * * * Skirt * * * * * Ticket * * * * * * *

Pom Poms # Piping #

Silk Piping # Ribbon # # # # # # # # * * * * * * * *

Gauze Ribbon # # # # # # # French Gauze Ribb. # Velvet Ribbon # # # # # # Satin Rl'bbon # # # # # # Sarsnet Satin Rll:ib. # # # # # Jaconet Ribbon # # # # # Coloured Ribbon # # # # # Coloured Tartan R # # # # # Belt Rl'bbon # # Sash Ribbons # # # # Pompadour Ribbon # # # Picot Rl'bbon # Ottoman Ribbon # Wide Ribbon # # Silk Ribbon # Moire Ribbon # Glare Rl'bbon #

Ruching # # # * Coloured Ruche # # # Rl'bbonRuche # # Satin Ruche # # #

Ruffling # # # #

43

Silk Ruffles # # Chiffon Ruffles # Net Ruffles #

Sash # # # # * #

Moire Sash * Tambour Muslin S. * Satin Sash *

Scarf # # Men's Satin Scarf # # Men's Silk Scarf # #

Scolliping * * * * * * * * Worlced Cambric S. # # # Muslin Scolliping * * * # * * * *

Seam * * * * * * * * French Seam * * * * * * * * Welt seam * * * * * * * * Piped Seam * * * * * * * *

Sequins # # Silver Sequins *

Shirring * * * * * Sleeves # # # # # # # #

Leg-o-mutton * * * * * Balloon/Melon * * Pagoda/Funnel * * * * * Pufred * * Bell * * * * * * Bishop # Coat * * Muslin Sleeves # # Cambric Sleeves # Crape Sleeves # Satin Guipure s * Lace Sleeves *

# Chiffon Sleeves * Gathered Sleeves *

Studs # # # # # Fancy Vest Studs # Shirt Studs #

Tassel # Chenille Tassel #

Trimmings # # # # # Crape Trimming<; # # # # #

44

Pearls # Crystals # Passementerie # Fur Trinn:nings # # # #

Waistband # * * * * * * Whalebone # # # # # # # Wings # York * #

Guipure y ark * Tucked York *

45

Appendix 2 :

Tailors, Convict Tailors and

Dressmakers/Seamstresses: Western Australia 1 829- 19 14

Sources:

Statham, P. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians Early Settlers 1829-1850, Vol 1, University of Western Australia Press, Perth. Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914 Vol 2 Bond 1850-1868, University of Western Australia Press, Perth. Erickson. R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians Vol 3 Free 1868-1888, University of Western Australia Press, Perth. Erickson. R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians Vol 4, 1888-1914, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Collated by author Damayanthie Eluwawalage

Tailors -- - - -- ... __ _ Ablosom, William Bamford, George Bennett, John Dent, Thomas Fanner, Thomas Hasler, Benjamin Hurst, Abraham Jarvis, James Kennedy, A. R Laws, C. Letts, James Mead, Joseph Sydney, John Smith, Alexander Stratton, Thomas Symmons, John Waldeck, Federick Witt, James Yates, Patrick �--- -- --

Tailors 1 829-1 850

Born Arrived -------- - -,- -�- - -- -182

1 . - --- ---7------------ ---- -- � �03/1841

1814 1843

1822 1827 1828 1809 1819 1822

1819 1798

1810 1798 1807 1807

1840 1829 1829

20/08/1842 03/1842 12/1842

1 843 1848

03/1841 13/02/1830

1833 1840

08/1830 23/08/1829 26/06/1836 10/04/1842

1830 - ------ - -- -

Source: Statham, P. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians Early Settlers 1829-1850, Vol 1,

University of Western Australia Press, Perth. collated by author Damayanthie Eluwawalage

Names Barker, Elizabeth Johnson, Margaret King, Harriet Prideaux, Elizabeth Shinnick, Catherine

Seamstresses 1829-1 850

Born 1 822 1824 1802 1821 1801

Arrived 04/1841

10/04/1 842 05/08/1829

12/1842 03/1841

Source: Statham, P. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians Early Settlers 1829-1850, Vol 1,

University of Western Australia Press, Perth. collated by author Damayanthie Eluwawalage

46

Tailors (convicts) 1850-1868

Names Born Arrived Place Employed

Agnew, William John 1 841 04/07/1 866 F Allen, John 1835 10/08/1865 Y/F/P Andrews,George 1841 04/07/1 866 P/F Atkinson, John 1 8 1 5 01/06/1 858 Y/C.B/T ul 1 871 Ball, George 1 834 04/07/1866 F/C.B/P/SW/T Barker, Thomas 1 838 14/07/1 867 p Barlow, Charles. Franklin 1 841 3 1/12/1 862 F/Sw Barrett,Francis 1 842 10/08/1 865 V/SU Barrett, Alfred 1834 1 5/02/1 863 P/SW Baxter, William 1830 18/07/1 855 V/SU Blake, Henry 183 1 28/12/1 863 F/P Blondin, Henry 1 833 10/08/1865 F/P/C.B/ ul 1 875 Blunt, Alfred 1 825 28/12/1863 M/P/F Bowen, James 1 836 1 1/07/1857 V/Y/P Bromley, Samuel 1 838 1 1/02/1861 C.B/P/ ul 1 871 Brown, John 1 840 22/1 2/1 866 F Brown(s)Worth, John 1838 19/02/1859 F/P Bryan, James 1835 1 1/09/1856 p Burns, Edward 1 820 22/12/1865 F/SU/P Burns,John 1 838 3 1/12/1 862 V/F/P/SU/BY Burnside, l-fugh 1836 3 1/12/1 862 C.B/F Burrows, Thomas 1810 29/01/1 862 PA/F/M Cameron, David 1 842 28/12/1 863 SW/P Carter, Theophilus 1 830 22/12/1 866 F/ ul 1 872 Clapson, James 1 830 12/09/1 864 P/F Clarke, Joseph 1 827 04/07/1866 PIT ul 1 872 Croker, Samuel 1 842 14/07/1967 C.B/P/F Dale, Charles 1 826 3 1/12/1 862 P A/F /P/W/SU/BY ul 1 872 Darbyshire, William 1838 10/01/1 868 .G/P/SW/FN.P Darcy, William 1843 10/08/1 865 T/F/P/SWN.P/M/ ul 1 893 Davidson, Joseph 1821 1 1/02/1 862 SW/Y/B/P ul 1 869 Davies, William 1 839 1 1 /02/1 861 NC/P/SW/Y Davis, James 1824 1 1/02/1861 P!F!TN.P Davis, John 1837 22/12/1 866 p Dempsey, Henry 1841 22/12/1 865 F/P ul 1 892 Dempsey, Patrick 1 838 3 1/12/1862 Y/C.B/SW/F Charles, Edward 1836 01/01/1858 BY/P Ennis, Michael 1 834 12/09/1 864 T/F/W/SU/M Ennis, Robert 1 842 28/12/1 863 F /SU/W/ ul 1 875 Eyer, John 1 840 12/09/1 864 F Furguson, Charles 1 831 12/09/1 864 FIB/PIM Garn, Henry 1829 04/08/1 852 p Godwin, Edward 1838 13/04/1 864 F/P/C.B Gordon, George 1845 10/01/1 868 P/F Griffiths, John 1820 04/08/1 852 P/ ul 1 868 Hands, John 183 1 12/09/1864 BY/P/Y/T Hanna(h), William 1832 29/05/1 863 P/ ul 1 874 Hardoin, Peter 1 827 29/01/1 862 P/SW/M Harris, Isaac 1 824 09/06/1862 p Harrison, Thomas 1 828 20/10/1858 SW/SU/W/P/F/T Heap, John 1 835 22/12/1 866 P/SW/F/WS/Y/TN.P

47

Hennessy, John 18 1 1 3 1/12/1862 F Hirst, George 1 809 01/06/1858 A/SW/FIP Hughes, William 1 839 28/01/1862 VIP/Y/BN Hyam, Thomas 1835 1 1/02/1 862 P/W/Y/M/F/SU/BY Johnson, Daniel 1 842 22/12/1865 B/Y Johns, Richard F 1837 22/12/1862 Y/M/P/W/F IT Jones, William 1 831 09/06/1 862 p Keats, Thomas 1 840 09/06/1862 Y/F/B Kelly, James 1 841 10/01/1868 NC/FIPN.P/T/SU Ladd, James 1 843 04/08/1 864 P/F McDiarmid,Frederick 1 837 01/06/1858 P/BY/Y/C.B McLaren, James 1825 29/05/1863 F/W/ ul 1 869 Mackin, John 1829 1 1/02/1861 C.B Mahoney, James 1 841 22/12/1 865 Y IP/M/F /SW/BIT Marriott, George 1830 04/07/1866 Y/F Moore, William A 1824 1 1/02/1861 BYIP/W ul 1873 Morrison, George 1836 1 4/07/1867 F/C.BIP Murphy, Hugh 1 847 22/12/1865 VIP/BY/SU Murphy, Morris 1819 22/12/1865 P/F/Y Murphy, William 1836 14/07/1 867 NC/TN.PIB!Y/F Nicholas, John 1830 13/04/1864 W/FIP/SW Nicholson, James 1842 09/06/1862 YIP/B Night, Thomas 1 835 1 1/02/1861 NCIP/Y/SWN.P/NM Palmer, Henry 1842 09/06/1 862 FIP/Y/SU/NC/T/W ul 1871 Pettingall, William 1833 19/01/1862 SW/F/G Pitts, Richards 1832 22/12/1866 F Plant, George 1828 1 1/02/1862 BYIP/W/ ul 1872 Powell, Joseph 1833 09/06/1862 YIP Prior, Jeremiah 1833 28/12/1863 w Pugh, Charles 1 837 29/05/1863 YIPP/F Pugh, Felix 1841 28/12/1863 FIP/C.B/W/SU/Y/B Redwood, John 1840 12/09/1864 F/SW/WIP/Y/TN.P Reynolds, William 1832 29/01/1862 y Richards, William 1834 04/07/1866 V/W/SU Richadson, Charles 1 830 12/09/1864 V/FIPN.P/SU/ ul 1 872 Richardson, John 1837 29/1 1/1862 NC/FIP/SU/T/ ul 1 882 Riley, John James 1842 3 1/12/1862 G/F/C.B/Y Robertson, James 1819 1 4/07/1867 P/F/T/Y Ryan, Michael 1 838 04/07/1866 F Salisbury, George 1 816 29/01/1862 P ul 1 877 Salt, Edward 1826 29/1 1/1862 p Scanlan, Jeremiah 1832 09/06/1 862 C.B/FIP/SW Sharpe, Aaron 1841 12/09/1864 F/M/P/SW/W Sherry, William 1831 1 4/07/1 867 FIP/Y Simpson, George 1834 09/06/1862 C.B/SWIP Smith, William 1 838 3 1/12/1862 T!NCIP Southwell, Alfred 1 839 14/07/1867 A/PT Spencer, William 1 833 10/01/1868 FIP/PT/T/ ul 1881 Stanley, Thomas 1837 04/07/1866 P/F Stein, Bernard 1839 1 4/07/1 867 P/C.B Stubbington, Charles 1 844 04/07/1866 P/ ul 1 881 Taylor, William 1 838 09/06/1862 A/P/SW/F/PT Thomas, Richard 1834 09/06/1862 BYIP/W Thompson, Charles 1 841 10/08/1865 FIP!Y Timewell, Frank B 1 836 1 0/08/1 865 P/F/NM Tole, Thomas 1834 1 1/02/1862 P/F/Y/SU ul 1885 Tuck, Henry 1822 10/01/1868 F/Y Weeks, William 1842 14/07/1867 P/SW

48

Williams, Henry 1833 29/01/1862 P/C.B/F Williams, John 1 847 14/07/1867 P/PT Woodlands, Fredrick 1 842 14/07/1867 F/P Woods, Dominic 1 810 29/01/1 862 F/SW/W/P/T/Y Wright, Thomas 1828 29/05/1863 F

Sources: Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914: Vol. 2: Bond 1850-1

Tailors (Free) 1850-1868

Names Born Arrived Place Employed

Beattie William 03/09/1 853 p

Bennett, John 1840 P Bryan(t), James 1835 09/1856 p

Bryant, Henry 1 824 10/1851 Buchanan, John 1 868 BY/ Cecil, John 1 8 1 8 1 1 /1858 p

Connolly, James 1 5/02/1 863 GN/ Cooper, George F Crawley, Samuel 1839 04/1864 F ul 1 885 Davis, Benjamin 183 1 08/08/1857 Donaldson, Alexander 1 821 05/1851 p

Garn, Henry 1 829 08/1852 PIG Griffiths, Henry 1 821 02/1853 p

Griffiths, John 1 820 08/1 852 P ul 1 868 Hale,J.B. GN 1874-1 876 Hale, John P 1860 Harris, Isaac 1 824 06/1862 P 1870's Hasson, Glover John 1 828 10/1 851 T Haynes, Robert 10/1 851 p

Houston, William Ireland 29/01/1862 p

Hughes, William Mortimer l 1 836 01/1862 BN/ 1860-70's Hurst, Abraham 1 806 10/04/1 842 BY Jarrett, Thomas 1842 09/1864 GN ul 1876 Kennedy, Patrick 1839 13/03/1855 Kilpatrick, Daniel Rose 1 8 1 6 12/09/1 864 F Lindsay, Robert 1805 01/06/1850 Loane, John. L 03/09/1853 F McCaw, William Agnew 23/02/1844 07 /1 866 F McNulty, Andrew 1 836 p

Miers (Myers) Lewis 1 828 03/1856 F Mills, William 1834 06/1858 N 1864-77 Moon, John Fl 1 860 Myers, Isaac 1 831 10/1851 Fl 1 870 Pawley, John 1821 06/1851 G Pettengell, William 1 833 01/1862 GI 1 865-1869 Plant, George 1828 02/1862 BY/ 1870 Pryor, J BY/ 1 868-72 Robinson,John 1 820 10/1 850 NM Shawson, T GI 1 863

49

Shinners, Daniel. G. 1819 Fl 1 863 Slawson, Thomas 1 835 03/1856 GI 1 860's Stanley, Thomas P 1 835 1 5104/1864 PIG Thackrah, Joseph H 1 829 0611 851 NM/ 1 870's Tourness, William T C 18 10 0310911853 Wagstaff, William T/NC Warren, William R 1 821 0611 851 y Woods, Henry Pl 1 868-75 Wray, John 1 8 1 7 03109/1853 A/ 1 864-76

Sources: Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914: Vol. 2 : Bond 1850-J

Dressmakers 1850-68

Names Born Arrived

Atkins, Mary Ann 1 840 25108/1858 Barry, Ann 1 844 24106/1862 Mrs. Darrard William 1 822 06/1862 Ann Flynn (Mrs J Godfrey) 1 850 19108/1 853 Hogan, Ellen 1 836 13106/1853 House, Martha 1 83 1 26103/1852 Hunt, Ellen 1 830 1310311 855 McBride, Catherine 1 840 13103/1855 Markham, Ellen 1835 2011011859 Sergeant, May 1834 13106/1853 Shepherd, Charlotte 1839 08108/1857 Shepherd, Maria 1 841 08108/1 857 Smith Miss Stapleton, Ann E 1 832 1 3106/1 853 Wood Misses

Place

p

Pl 1870's

Pl 1 870-77

Sources: Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914: Vol. 2: Bond 1850-J

Needlewomen 1850-68

Names

Bowman, Mary Boyd, Margaret Brennan, Bridget

Born Arrived

1839 0810411863 1844 1 110811867 1835 1310611853

Place

F

Sources: Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914: Vol. 2: Bond 1850-J

50

Lace makers 1850-68

Names Ingram, Mary King, Elizabeth

Born Arrived 1841 14/01/1868 183 1 24/06/1 862

Sources: Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914: Vol. 2: Bond 1850-1

Abbreviation

y York T Toodyay GN Geraldton PT Plantagenet NM Northam NC Newcastle BN Busselton BY Bunbury A Albany V.P Victoria Plans V Vasse ws Williams SU Sussex SW Swan B Beverly PA Pinjarah w Wellington G Guildford M Murray

51

Tailors 1 868- 1 888

Name Born Arrived Place Employed

Abbott, W p

Allen, John p

Baker, Thomas GH Barrett, Francis Henry 1 842 10108/1 865 M.R/BN

Barry, James FIG Barry, Patrick 1 7108/1 869 (Perth) F Bell, R p

Blackel, Charles 1 827 28106/1851 Yl 187 1 Bolam,W 1011885 F Brown, Joseph M Buckley, Samuel 1 842 01/1011882 F Burnaby, W Roebourne Byrne, Henry 1862 03106/1883 F Caskey, Mark 1 864 16109/1 1 887 Celaya, Manuel 2911 1/1847 03105/1 869 N.N

Clarke, John F Cooper, George 1 834 08108/1 857 F Cunningham, Charles 1 885 y Daniels, ? GD Donegan, William 1 836 N.CIT Duggan, Michael 1 845 0310711 883 Ennis, T A Freecorne, Ansell 1 849 (Poland) 1 6108/1 885 p

Freeland, Edward 24/10/1883 A Galbraith, Neil 1 4/1 1/1 879 p

Hale, Robert 0. 1 3109/1 872 G Harper, J F Harvey, J Fl 1 883 Heap, Johnn 1 835 2211211866 F Henderson, H Fl 1 875-81 Kilpatrick, Thomas M F McCreath, John 1844 25101/1 885 F McDiarmid,Frederick 1 837 01/0611858 McGovern, R A Marks, G p Marriot, George 1 830 04107/1 866 p Metheringham, H 2010411 877 p Monaghan, Henry 1 849 08106/1882 A Murphy, W GH Murrin, J p Myers, Reuben A F Nathan, Lewis 1 6109/1 887 Tailor's Machinist Nicholas, William 1 830 0 1 10511 853 F O'Brien,James P/B O'Bryan, James Blackwood District

52

Owen, Edward 04/06/1886 Pass, William Power, James 1850 03/07/1883 Pryor, Jeremiah 1 833 28/12/1863 Reilly, J Robertson, John 1829 05/04/1854 Salt, G F Salt, W Shultz, John E 1 837 1 5/02/1 876 Smith, Thomas 1853 01/10/1881 Stanley, Thomas P 03/05/1872 Tischler, Louis H Vernon,Walter 1 839 1 3/04/1 864 Vincent, J Watson, W Wiggins, George 1 868 30/09/1883 Williams, William F 1 856 03/06/1 883 Woods, John T 24/12/1854

Sources: Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914, Vol. 3 1868-1888, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

GD p A B

GD T/NM

p p

F p p

N until 1 877 PIA

A p F

Canning Road

53

Dressmakers 1 868- 1 888

Mrs. Anderson Greenough

Barron, Jane Catherine 1 856 p Miss. Bryant P/1 884

Miss. Burnside P/1 884-1 886

Cowden, Jane 28/01/1849 Albany

Mrs. Cundell Sunbury

Miss. Dawson Sunbury

Downes, Charlotte 04/05/1 858

Miss. Eversden p Eyles, Emma Guildford

Smith, Mary Elizabeth 1 1/03/1842 1 9/12/1 875

Thomas, Mary Ann Matilda Albany

Mrs. E. Gray Greenough/1884-1886 McCarthy, Mary(Ms Hackett} 05/04/1 856 York

Hanham, Anne 1847 F

Mrs. M. Higgins Busselton

Mrs. Holms F/1 880

Miss. Isles Guildford

Mrs. James P/1 884-1 889

Miss. L. King Geraldton Devanlor, Alice(Ms King Robert) F

Miss. Lloyd, Clare F/1876

Miss. Longbottom Busselton/1 888

Miss. McArdle, Mary P/1 884 Sweetman, Jessie( McGuiness) F F Doherty, Johanna (Mckeo.vn)

Morrison, Florence p Miss. O'Connor F

Mrs. O'Connor F

Mrs. Edwin Powell F

Miss. Jane Pusey 1 860 p Miss. R. Read Geraldton Miss. Greenough

Mrs. Richardson Busselton Elizabeth Caroline

Hanham, Mrs. Smith 30/01/1850/Carnavon

Stamp, Mary Albany Stamp, Anastasia Albany Mrs, William Steadman Guildford Mrs. H. Thompson p Thomas, Emma (Timpson) 1841 29/03/1 856 p Toomey, Margaret 1 861 York Rosannah, Sarah

Mrs. Taylor Busselton Miss. C. Webb p Webb, Elizabeth Mary 1 863 p Mrs. Williams Sunbury

54

Miss. Williams

Miss. Williams, Annie Ellen

Mrs. Woodrow, Mary ann

Woolhouse, Elizabeth

1 864

29/12/1 855

Sources: Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914, Vol. 3 1868-1888, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Needle-Women 1 868-1 888

26/03/1 862

1 824

1 850

1 862/Guildford

Northampton

Albany

Sunbury

Greenough

Northam

Goldwyer, Emily

Coppin, Elizabeth

Millard, Jane Ann

Moore, Sarah, A

Nisbet, Jane Miss

03/07/1 883

03/07/1 883

29/06/1 886 School Needlework Inspector

Sources: Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914, Vol. 3 1868-1888, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Tai loresses 1 868-1 888

Bird, Eliza

Park, Nellie (Joseph}

Lannin, Susie (Joseph)

1 857

1 876

1 873

16/09/1 887

Sources: Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914, Vol. 3 1868-1888, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Seamstresses 1 868-1 888

p

F

Miss. Baughan

Roser, Caroline 1874 Guildford

Kalgoorl ie/Coolgardie

Sources: Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914, Vol. 3 1868-1888, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

55

Tailors (Men) 1 888- 19 14

Bettes, John Henry 02/03/1852 (Jersey Island) 21/01/1913 p Bradfield, Henry William 1883 (England) 16/19/1887 Edwards, Louis 14/10/1 892 (Beverley) Beverley Tailor/Cutter Oliver, William Davies 29/07/1 843 (Victoria) 1895 P/Claremont Draper/Tailor Pond, William 1 7/10/1 849 (London) 1896 p Sheedy, M 1 84 7 (Ireland) 25/05/1896 F

Sources: Erickson, R. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914, Vol4 1888-1914, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Tailoresses, Dressmakers, Seamstresses 1 888- 1914

Bailey, Esther Ann F /South Guildford Beer, Georgina 26/12/1889 (England) Bowman, Amelia Ellen 25/10/1886 1897 p Brierly, Helena Victoria Clark, Minnie Robina 08/04/1899 (Perth) p Davies, Rosa 19/12/1877 (South Austra) Devereux, Ida 07/07/1893 (York) Dykes, Bertha 06/03/1889 (Fremantle) F Ebert, Frances Ellen 24/03/1883 (South Aus) F Griffiths, Ruby May 19/07/1888 (Beverley) Beverley/Narrogin Hardie, Elizabeth 19/06/1872 (Victoria) Hardwick, Margaret Sarah 08/08/1886 (Bunbury) Hogg, Annie 22/02/1878 (India) Kalgoorlie Holland, Martha Lucille 07/06/1 893 John, Catherine 16/06/1871 (Victoria) F Kinninmont, Flora 26/06/1878 (Victoria) 07/1897 Lowes, Jane 06/08/1885 (England) 24/09/1886 McCahon, Ellen 25/05/1872 (Victoria) Meredith, Alice Jane 05/06/1888 Miller, Louisa Ada 1881 F Miller, Emily Mary 13/04/1876 Mulqueeney, Rosa Mary 1868 (South Australia) Coolgardie Nicholas, Amelia Emily 03/01/1878 (South Aus) O'Brien, Agnes Amelia 30/1 1/1888 (Geraldton) Paul, Margaret Teresa 17/03/1882 (NSW) Richards, Lizzie 18/02/1878 (Victoria) Kalgoorlie/Boulder Rutherford, Virginia 26/10/1894 (Geraldton) Sampson, Susan 20/04/1886 Nov-08 Smith, Ethel Alice 1 8/06/1887 (England) 1907 p

56

Starick, Eliza Thompson, Sarah Jane

09/03/1883 (England) 1 878 (South Perth)

29/09/191 1

Sources: Erickson, E. 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians 1829-1914, Vol 4 1888-1914, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

Arthur, Una Elsie Drew, Ida Mary Jury, Eileen May Mercer, Susan

Milliners 1 888- 19 14

24/10/1883 (Victoria) 1 885 (Victoria)

23/09/1884 (England) 09/07/1869 (South Aus)

22/05/1891 1 1/03/1900

Sources: Erickson, R 1979, Dictionary of Western Australians, Vol 4 1888-1914, University of Western Australia Press, Perth.

p

F p p

57

Appendix 3 :

Fashions of Western Australians 1 829- 1 900

Collated and Drawn by author

Damayanthie Eluwawalage

Fashions of Western Australians 1 829- 1 900

This general chronological depiction was drawn from the observation of surviving colonial Western Australian clothing, colonial photographs and the analyses of clothing importations in the nineteenth century (Appendix 1: Imported Clothing, Clothing Materials, Haberdasheries and Accessories: Western Australia 1829-1914) .

Categorising fashion into decades is an appropriate way of describing the fashion of a given era, however, there is never any acute demarcation between the demise of one fashion and the emergence of another.

1 830-1 840

General Description Women wore dresses with long, sloping shoulders and lower waistlines. The tight waistlines were either rounded or pointed. Skirts were full (gathered or pleated) and wider at the hem at ankle length. Lightly boned, tight-fitting bodices often had wide necklines and were decollated. Distinctive gigot sleeves were narrower to fit the lower arm and wrist.

Necklines were usually V-shaped or comparatively low, and often trimmed with a collar of white lace or muslin. Sleeves were long and often gathered on the upper-arm and wrist.

Day, Dress Western Australia, c1830 Heritage Museum, Fremantle

Material: Printed cotton with green and aubergine abstract design Bodice: Hand-sewn, high neck-line, fullness gathered on shoulders and the

fashionable V andyked collar Sleeves: Full shaped gigot sleeves, gathers holding down top to the upper-arm Skirt: Full and gathered

58

Day Dress, Western Australia, c1830

Source: Heritage Museum, Fremantle Drawn by author Damayanthie Eluwawalage

59

1 840-1 850

General Description Dresses with sloping shoulders, V -shaped waistlines and boned bodices with narrow sleeves, ankle-length, pleated or gathered skirts with tucks, insertions, shirring and flounces were used.

Fashion Shawls were worn. The wrists and neck were often finished with white under-sleeves and collar.

Dress, Western Australia, c1840 Heritage Museum, Fremantle

Material: Light grey satin Bodice: Hand-sewn, low and wide V-shaped neck-line trimmed with ten pleats.

Boned. Padding near the armholes to improve the bust-line. Sleeves: Elbow-lengthed sleeves with three rows of frills, ending in a lace frill. Skirt: Full, pleated skirt lined with stiffened muslin

60

Dress, Western Australia, c1840

Source: Heritage Museum, Fremantle Drawn by author Damayanthie Eluwawalage

I

61

1 850-1 860

General Description Bell-shaped, ankle-length skirts with flounces and high-necked blouses were often worn with brooches at the throat. The sleeves were tight-fitting at the armhole and full at the wrist (bell or pagoda shape).

Fashion Very full sleeves and flounces were generally worn. The necklines were high, or with a V-neck filled by a chemisette. Collars and undersleeves were popular.

Men's Clothing Loose-fitting suits and lapelled waistcoats were worn. The colour of trousers often contrasted with the coat.

Dress, Western Australia, c1850 Royal Western Australian Historical Society

Material: Pale blue taffeta Bodice: Hand-sewn. Round neck-line with a white cotton lace collar, eight rows of

mauve, fringed braid across front. Boned. Fastened by fourteen hooks. Sleeves: Wide sleeves trimmed with a zigzag shaped braid and four purple fringed

rosettes down the length of the sleeves. Two rows of braid at the bottom of the sleeves. Undersleeves of white net with draw-strings of black ribbon. Skirt: Gathered into waist with three deep frills, each bordered with strips of dark

mauve woven into the fabric. Lining: Lined with cream cotton fabric.

62

Dress, Western Australia, c1850

Source: Royal Western Australian Historical Society Drawn by author Damayanthie Eluwawalage

\I \ �

\ 'y

63

1 860-1870

General Description Dresses with dropped shoulders, large, long bishop sleeves with tighter armholes, and enormously large crinoline skirts with multiple flounces and pleatings were popular.

Fashion Very wide skirts often embellished with braids and trimmings.

Men's Clothing Three-piece suits of the same material were worn. Waistcoats V-cut at centre waist, the chain looped through a buttonhole at the centre front of the coat and loose-fitting trousers were popular.

Dress, Western Australia, c1860 Royal Western Australian Historical Society

Material: Peach-coloured Indian muslin Bodice: Low, wide and round neck-line with two rows oflace frills. Fastened by

hooks and eyes. Sleeves: Very short Magyar sleeves, ending in a lace frill. Skirt: Fully gathered crinoline skirt with two broad flounces decorated and

embroidered with Indian beetle wings. Flounce edges embroidered with green scallops.

64

j

/2// , 1 I I I •

I /

/ I

\

Dress, Western Australia, c1860

\

Source: Royal Western Australian Historical Society Drawn by author Damayanthie Eluwawalage

I

\ \

I

\ \

'J

' ) \ . · ... \

' ,. , .. � · .,:·· · · · . . \\\. ·,,

. \ ' \ \ \

\ \

65

1 870-1 880

General Description Close-fitting dresses with high waists. Bodices were tight-fitting, often with high-necked or V-shaped necklines. Skirts were slim around the hips and flat in the front. The skirt extended out at the back over the large bustle. Two skirts were generally worn and often the underskirt developed into a short train.

Fashion Necklines, bodice fronts and sleeves were often trimmed with lace and fringing. Evening dresses were often decorated with flounces, frills, ribbons, flowers and lace. Sleeves were often tight and restricted the arm movement.

Men's Clothing Well tailored, loose-fitting formal suits with narrow trousers and waistcoats with wide lapels were worn. Contrasting coloured trousers and coats were popular.

Dress, Western Australia, c1870 Museum of W estem Australia

Material: Fawn-coloured silk satin Bodice : High neck-line with dark brown ribbon, frilled trim and ruched front. Sleeves: Tight-fitting ruched sleeves. Skirt: Gored and trained bustle skirt, slightly drawn up at the sides and edged with

narrow gathered flounces. Ruched front. Lining: Lined with cotton

66

'---�\ "--, ---------- --�----

Dress, Western Australia, c1870

Source: Museum of Western Australia Drawn by author Damayanthie Eluwawalage

67

1 880-1 890

General Description

Tight-fitting high-necked dresses with tight-fitting sleeves of three-quarter or full

length, ankle-length skirts with bustle extensions were well received.

Fashion

Drapery on the front of the skirt was arranged in the form of an apron. A stand-up

collar was popular. The bustled skirt became more decorative and complex, with

applications of pleated flounces and bands of puffing. Tailor-made suits were well

received, often made with matching jackets and skirts in heavy cloth and tweeds.

Men's Clothing Three-piece suits in the same colour, coats with narrow collars and lapels, and

loose-fitting trousers were worn.

Dress, Western Australia, c1880 Swan-Guildford Historical Society

Material: Blue silk

Bodice: High-necked, lined with lace collar, three-piece back with shaped and

pleated peplum. Trimmed with blue braided fringing.

Sleeves: Full-lengthed sleeves trimmed with braided fringing.

Skirt: Waist-band, cartridge pleated skirt, side fastening with hooks and eyes.

Overskirt with simple pannier shape cut in five pieces. Centre-back gathered

for bustle effect, edged with blue braided fringing. Pleated fancy patch-pocket

on left hip. Side front fastening.

Lining: Lined with cotton.

68

Dress, Western Australia, c1880

Source: Swan-Guildford Historical Society Drawn by author Damayanthie Eluwawalage

69

1 890-1 900

General Description Dresses with broader shoulder lines, gored and bell-shaped slim skirts with flat front and little fullness at the back, V-shaped bodices with sleeves with gathered or pleated tops were worn.

Fashion Stiff collars and low waistlines. V-shaped or round yorks were traced with frills or trimming. Tailor-made suits of tweeds and corduroy were worn.

Men's Clothing Very high shirt collars, often handkerchiefs were placed in the breast pocket of the coat, and 'watch and chain' centre fronts were popular.

Dress, Western Australia, c1890 Swan-Guildford Historical Society

Material: Cream silk taffeta and cotton lace Bodice: Front fastening. V-shaped cotton lace yoke (front and back), stand-up

collar edged with 2cm lace. Cotton lining. Sleeves: Balloon sleeves with filled cotton lining. From elbow to wrist cotton lace

with an overlay of heavier cotton lace, attached at elbow. Skirt: Eight gored, lined with cotton sateen. Left side front opening. Nine hooks

and eyelets fastening. Plain cream cotton tape waistband. Lower-skirt: Three rows of frills edged with lace bond, three rows of heavy cotton

lace.

70

Dress, Western Australia, c1890

Source: Swan-Guildford Historical Society Drawn by author Damayanthie Eluwawalage

71