Chapter 10

Copyright ©2011 by Pearson Education, Inc.publishing as Pearson [imprint]

On Cooking: A Textbook of Culinary Fundamentals, 5eLabensky • Hause • Martel



”“ What I love about cooking is that after a hard day, there is

something comforting about the fact that if you melt butter and add flour, then hot stock, it will get thick! It’s a sure thing. It’s a sure thing in the

world where nothing is sure!– Nora Ephron, American author and filmmaker (1941 - )

STOCKS AND SAUCES

C H A P T E R TEN

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After studying this unit

You will be able to:– Prepare a variety of sauces– Recognize and classify sauces– Use thickening agents properly– Prepare a variety of classic and modern sauces

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Stock

A flavored liquid A good stock is the key to a great soup, sauce or

braised dish The French appropriately call a stock fond (base),

as stock is the basis for many classic and modern dishes

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Types of Stock

White stock– Raw bones and vegetables simmered in water with

seasonings Brown stock

– Bones and vegetables that have first been browned then simmered in water with seasonings

Fish stock or fumet– Fish bones or crustacean shells cooked slowly with

vegetables and seasonings in water Court bouillon

– Vegetables and seasonings simmered in water with an acidic liquid such as vinegar or wine

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Ingredients in Stock

Bones– Beef, veal, chicken, fish

Lamb, turkey, game, ham Mirepoix

– Mixture of 50% onions, 25% carrots and 25% celery by weight

Seasonings– Principally peppercorns, bay leaves, thyme, parsley

stems and, optionally, garlicDo not add salt

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Mirepoix

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Principles of Stock Making

Start the stock in cold water Simmer the stock gently Skim the stock frequently Strain the stock carefully Cool the stock quickly Store stock properly Degrease the stock

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SAFETY ALERT-Cooling and Handling Stock

A two-stage cooling method is recommended for keeping stock out of the temperature danger zone

First, cool the stock from 135°to 70°F (52°C-21°C) within 2 hours

Second, reduce the temperature from 70°F to below 41°F (21°C to below 5°C) in an additional 4 hours, for a total of 6 hours

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White Stock

Neutral stock made from beef, veal or chicken bones

Blanching bones– Wash and cut up bones, place them in a

stockpot and cover with cold water– Bring the water to a boil over high heat– As soon as the water comes to a boil, skim the

rising impurities; drain the water from the bones and discard

– Refill the pot with cold water and proceed with the stock recipe

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Brown Stock

Made from chicken, veal, beef or game bones Caramelizing

– Do not blanch the bones– Place the cut up bones in a roasting pan one

layer deep; it is better to roast several pans of bones than to overfill one pan

– Roast the bones for approximately 1 hour in a hot oven, 375°F; stirring occasionally, brown the bones thoroughly, but do not allow them to burn

– Transfer the roasted bones from the pan to the stockpot

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Caramelizing the Bones

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Brown Stock (cont.)

Deglazing the pan– Place the pan on the stove top over medium

heat; add enough water to cover the bottom of the pan approximately ½ inch deep

– Stir and scrape the pan bottom to dissolve and remove all the caramelized materials while the water heats

– Pour the deglazing liquid over the bones in the stock pot

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Deglazing the Pan

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Brown Stock (cont.)

Caramelizing mirepoix– Add a little of the reserved fat from the roasted

bones to the roasting pan after it has been deglazed

– Sauté the mirepoix, browning the vegetables well and evenly without burning them

– Add caramelized mirepoix to stockpot

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Caramelizing Mirepoix

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Fish Stock and Fumet

Made with the bones and heads of fish and crustacean shells

Oily fish are not generally used Bones are not blanched, due to loss of flavor Fumets differ from stock because they are strongly

flavored and contain an acidic ingredient such as white wine or lemon juice

Require less time than other stocks; 35 to 40 minutes is usually sufficient to extract full flavor

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Vegetable Stock

Should be clear and light colored Contains no gelatin and has little body May be used as a substitute for meat stocks in

vegetarian dishes Strongly flavored vegetables from the cruciferous

family or those that are bitter should be avoided Potatoes and other starchy vegetables will cloud

the stock and should be avoided

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Commercial Bases

Powder or paste flavoring added to water; used to replace stock

Even the best base is a poor substitute for a well-made stock

Bases vary greatly in quality and price Sodium (salt) is the main ingredient in many bases

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Court Bouillon

Commonly used to poach fish and shellfish A flavored liquid, usually water and wine or

vinegar, in which vegetables and seasonings have been simmered to impart their flavors and aromas

Not actually stock, but prepared in the same manner

Nage-aromatic court bouillon served as its own sauce

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Glaze

A dramatically reduced stock 1 gallon of stock produces 1 to 2 cups of glaze

– Glace de viande is made from brown stock– Glace de volaille is made from white stock

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Sauces

With a few exceptions, a sauce is a liquid plus thickening agent plus seasonings

Follow these procedures for fine sauce making:

1. Make good stocks

2. Use thickening agents properly to achieve the desired texture, flavor and appearance

3. Use seasonings properly to achieve the desired flavors

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Thickening Agents

Roux is the principal means used to thicken sauces

Roux is a combination of equal parts, by weight, of flour and fat– White roux

Cooked only briefly, used in white sauces– Blond roux

Cooked slightly longer to take on a little color, used in ivory-colored sauces

– Brown rouxCooked until it develops a darker color and a

nutty aroma, used in brown sauces

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White, Blonde and Brown Roux

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Incorporating Roux into Liquid

There are two ways to incorporate roux into a liquid without causing lumps– Cold stock can be added to hot roux while

stirring vigorously with a whisk– Room-temperature roux can be added to hot

stock while stirring vigorously with a whisk

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Guidelines for Using Roux

Use heavy nonreactive pot to prevent scorching and discoloring.

Roux should not be cooler than room temperature when combined with liquid.

Avoid over thickening. Roux does not thicken a sauce until almost boiling.

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Other Thickening Agents

Cornstarch– Slurry

Arrowroot Beurre manié Liaison Emulsification

– Permanent– Semipermanent or temporary

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Sauce Families

Leading, grand or mother sauces are the foundation for the entire classic repertoire of hot sauces

The five leading sauces– Béchamel– Velouté– Espagnole (brown)– Tomato– Hollandaise

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Béchamel Family

Cream Cheese Mornay Nantua Soubise

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The Velouté Family

Fish sauces– Bercy– Cardinal– Normandy

Suprême sauces– Albufera– Hungarian– Ivory

Allemande sauces– Aurora– Horseradish– Mushroom– Poulette

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Espagnole (Brown Sauce)

Demi-glace and

Jus Lié– Bordelaise– Chasseur– Châteaubriand– Chevreuil– Madeira or port

– Marchand de vin– Mushroom– Périgueux– Piquant– Poivrade– Robert

Charcutière

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The Tomato Sauce Family

Creole Spanish Milanaise

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The Hollandaise Family

Béarnaise Choron Foyot Grimrod Maltaise Mousseline (Chantilly sauce)

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SAFETY ALERT – Handling Emulsified Butter Sauces

Emulsified butter sauces must be held at temperatures conducive to bacterial growth– Always use clean, sanitized utensils– Prepare sauce close to service time– Never hold Hollandaise-based-sauces more

than 1 ½ hours.– Never mix an old batch with a new batch of

sauce

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Butter in Sauce

Compound butter Monter au beurre Beurre blanc Beurre rouge

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Other Sauces

Pan gravy Pan sauces Coulis Contemporary sauces

– Salsa and relish– Vegetable juice and essence– Broth– Flavored oils

Chapter 10

Documents

pearson education

hot stock

handling stock

good stock

stock recipecopyright

stock potcopyright

mirepoix6 stock

bones11 stock