Cell Extra

7/30/2019 Cell Extra

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Fashion means constant change. At all times, however, people have

wished for permanently beautiful, pleasant to wear and easy care

textiles. Striving to fulfill this desire, LNCI offers finishers a product

system called CELLXTRA, which convinces, amongst others, by itsrationalised handling. Optimised process and product combinations

make it possible to respond quickly and flexibly to the requirements of

the market.

The most importantproperties of the CELLXTRA finish:

Optimum easy care effects for cellulosics and their blends with

synthetics.Elegant handle and drape, and good technological properties of the

finished textiles.

Long life effect the textile appears new for longer.

Excellent wear comfort and good breathability.

Easy care finish with integratedAQUAREPEL soil repellency system.

Low formaldehyde finish.

High productions speeds and process safety.

The use of autocatalysed cross-linking systems and multifunctional

softening agents ensures quick and reliable handling in production. The

softening agents especially developed for the finishing of garments

minimize the brittleness caused by the cross-linking agent. The abrasion

resistance of the finished textiles as well as its handle and drape is thus

improved, the colours are intensified.


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DEMAND IN MARKET

There is an increasing demand in the market to have a garment in which, after

washing, then hand dry or tumbler dry, there is no ironing or very les ironing required

and the garments appearance shows No wrinkle or very less wrinkle. Thesegarments are known as WrinkleFree.

Now, there is a strong desire for natural looking, comfortable clothing. Consumers

want a neater look in casual apparel. The consumers life style demands the product

be carefree (little or no ironing). This presentation describes the products and

procedures used to manufacture 100% cotton wrinkle resistant fabric and garmentshaving both comfort and style.

A high synthetic construction garment is already likely to

be a wrinkle free garment. Its plain appearance surface

will remain very similar without much wrinkle after

washing; with very limited requirement of ironing to get

back a plain surface.

To maintain cotton as major raw material but with a

characteristic of a wrinkle free appearance adequate

quantity of cross linking resin treatment is required to

stabilize its smooth surface. The higher the cotton content,the higher will be the resin input required.
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Garment finishing provides the same wrinkle free finish

provided by post cure operations i.e. Permanent smoothness andcrease retention

Resistance to wrinkling while wearing, especially with 100%

cotton fabrics

Improved shrinkage control.

In addition to these advantages garment finishing offers:

Improved performance over post-cure finishing especially where

there is a time delay between finishing and garment

construction. (Some curing in the flat occurs with time, reducing

crease retention of garments).

Rapid response to order for garments from specific fabrics.

Production of special order finishes along with wrinkle

resistance (water and oil repellent, high performance finish, very

soft finish)

Inventory reduction and control.


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WHAT TYPE OF GARMENTS CAN BE PROCESSED? WHICH FABRICS?

All fabrics containing cellulosic hydroxyl group can be used cotton and cotton

polyester blends are most popular. Other fibres (e.g. linen and rayon) will benefit

from treatment, but will require additional formulating. The chemicals involved in

this process react with cellulose fibres to provide a permanent memory to that fibre.Polyester fiber is inert to the resin and will not be affected. All cotton or

cotton/polyester blend garments work well. Garment finishing is widely used to

produce wrinklefree pants and shirts (both woven and knit). Other garments e.g.

ladies skirts, can also be produced by this method provided a suitable form is

available on which to cure the goods.

WHICH FABRICS SHOULD NOT BE USED?

The application ofAllenlink, and Tristar series of resins to cotton gives a wrinkle

free memory to the fibre. Increased amount will give improved results. However,

when resins are applied to the fabric there is a strength loss (typically 20-40% on

100% cotton fabric). The more resin, the more strength loss. This strength loss will

show in reduced tear strength and abrasion resistance of finished garments.(Increased fraying of cuffs, collar, increased tendency to tear). It is important to use

fabrics of adequate strength of good quality, long fiber, cotton while manufacturing

100% cotton blend are more forgiving because the polyester is not affected and does

not lose strength. However, this can be over by addition of Modtex-PE, Modfinish-

HDNI & Modfinish-NF


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Assuming the fabrics to be of reasonable strength and construction, good

results should be obtained. The most common problems encountered are:

1.Fabric is too alkaline:

Improperly washed fabrics can contain residual alkali. The catalyst in

Tristar and Allenlink resin is mildly acidic and will be neutralized by the

alkali. If the catalyst is neutralized the resin will not cure properly and

results will be poor. A properly washed fabric will have an alkalinity of less

than 0.05%. In washing the fabric it may be necessary to add a very dilute

acetic acid scouring bath followed by a rinse to remove the last alkali formthe fabric.

2.Shade Change:

Some sensitive dyes will change shade when garments are treated with

resins. It is necessary to either change to non-sensitive dyes or dye to

accommodate the change.

3.Unequal distribution of resin solution on garments in the washer-

dryer:

This is a mechanical problem of distribution of chemical spray and perhaps

fabric construction (e.g. penetration through double fabric layers)

4.Lower performance than expected:

If the treated garments have been dried at too high temperature or too long

time, some premature curing can occur in the dryer. If this occurs not only

is resin not available to cure in the correct (pressed) shape, but also worse,some unwanted wrinkles can be cured into the fabric during drying.


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HOW ARE RESULTS MEASURED?

Finished garments are laundered and dried in normal household washers and

dryers. After 3 home launderings the garments are rated visually against

standards available from the American Association of Textile Chemicals and

Colorists. These are rated from 1 (worst) to 5 (best) for crease retention (in

trousers) and smoothness in flat areas. Usually a 3.5 rating is good, 4.0 excellent.

ADVANTAGES OF CELLXTRA SYSTEM

Is suitable for all readymade garments made of natural fibers such as cotton or

linen as well as man made cellulosic fibres such as rayon, tencel and lyocell.

Provides non-iron effects, if desired also with permanent crease.

Prevents creases during wear as well as after washing and tumble-drying in a

household tumbler.

Preserve size of garment

Allows appearances from sleek accurate to casual wrinkle wear Gives a soft, elegant handle

Less effect on abrasion and tear strength


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Garment should be made up of the fabric with good tensile strength.

Wash fastness of face fabric, linings, sewing thread and waist bands i.e.

the dimension shrinking of the untreated fabric should be below 3%.

The face fabric, linings, sewing thread and waist bands should be heat

resistance i.e. should not show dimensional changes and dye migration

at curing temperatures i.e. 155-170C

Corrosion resistance of metal parts, since the treatment bath is in acid

medium and corrosion (rust) may occur on ignoble metal buttons,

zippers and other accessories.

To avoid bleeding and staining dyeings. Fast to colour bleeding have tobe used. Reactive dyeings must be stable against acids and acid

catalysts.


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WHAT IS THE PROCESS?

In general garments are treated with chemicals in a stainless steel rotary

washer-dryer and dried at moderate temperatures to 5-10% moisturecontent. The garment are then pressed to desired shape and cured in a

oven between 160-170C for 5-7 mins.

Pre-cure process:

The pre-cure process is the simplest and easiest method to achieve wrinkle

resistance. Here the cross linking resin is applied and cured in the textile

finishing mill. This method imparts a permanent memory to the cotton

fabric in a flat configuration. This type of finishing is most frequently

conducted on fabrics where permanent pleats or creases are not needed

such as sheeting, shirting, dress goods, knits, and some slacks. However,one manufacturer has offered slacks made from pre-cured fabrics where

the crease was imparted and made permanent by a silicone adhesive.


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Post-cure process:

This process was practiced extensively in the 1960s. The finish, including a cross-linking

resin and catalyst, is impregnated by the finishing plant and dried with little or no curing.

After the garment is made, pleats and/or creases are imparted by pressing. Finally, the

garment is passed through a curing oven where the cross-linking resin imparts wrinkle

resistance with crease retention. In addition to permanent creases, the conventional post-

cure process also provides less seam puckering when washed as compared to the pre-cure

process.

During processing, there are certain precautions that the finishing plant should exercise in

order to ensure a good performing product. The pH of the fabric before finishing should be

5.0

7.0 with the total alkalinity not greater than 0.05% NaOH. In order to minimize anycuring of the impregnated fabric, it should come off the tenter frame with about 10% moisture

measured by a moisture meter. The fabric should be wrapped cool, not hot. If the finished

fabric is to be SanforizedTM processed, water is not sprayed and care is taken not to over dry.

It may be necessary to reduce the temperature of the palmer unit of the Sanforizer.

Another important consideration for post-cure is the shipment and storage of sensitized(treated fabric). Studies have shown that there is a time/temperature relationship whereby

premature cross-linking may occur. This would prevent the formation of a sharp crease

when pressed, thus the crease rating after laundering may be lower. The type of catalyst

(regular v/s hot) and resin (buffered or not) will also have a direct influence on premature

curing.


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In the following, we present the individual procedure,

illustrated with guide recipes.

In more details the preferred treatment process:

Dip saturation hydro-extract processMetered addition process

A DIP-SATURATION-HYDROEXTRACT PROCESS:

Garment has to be free from residual alkali and other

substances disturbing the cross linking process and as

described earlier.

Procedure

Step I:

In the first step, the dry garments are impregnated with

the finishing solution, by maintain the MLR 1:10 or 1:15.

The garments may be agitated briefly in the solution, ora bundle of the garment may be dipped in the finishing

solution. The important factor is that the garments

become thoroughly saturated with the finish. A typical

finish will contain a wetting agent, cross-linking resin,

catalyst, softener the garment is soaked in bath for 30

mins.


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Bath Recipe For Dip Process

Products Shirting Trouser

Tristar-L-112/Tristar-ULF 5 6 8 9

Modfinish-HDNI / Sylast-TSI 3.5 4 4

Silicone softener 2 3 4(Luballen-AH-30/Dermasil-LIQ)

Altranol-84 0.1 0.1

Catalyst-CR 0.5 0.6 0.8 0.9

Water 88.9 87.3 84.1 82

pH of the bath 4.5 ~ 5 with Acetic Acid

Step-II:

The garment is hydro-extracted to about 75-80% wet pick-up. The

level of wet pick-up will depend primarily upon the construction of

the fabric.

Step-III:

Tumble-drying the impregnated garments is a critical step. If the area

to be creased becomes too dry and hot, some curing may take place.

The problem with this partial pre-curing is that it will inhibit the

formation of sharp crease. Moisture in the area to be creased should

not fall below 10-12%.


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Step I:Applying finish solution to cotton garments by spray system to deliver precisely the

required amount of formulation to the garments. This is termed as Metered

Addition Process. The system compares to the dip method, except for the application

of the resin solution. Unlike the garment dip process, which totally saturates the

garments followed by a centrifuge extraction to a wet pick-up value, the metered

addition process applies only the necessary amount of finish solution needed toachieve the final pre-determined wet pick-up.


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The finish solution is applied via spray where in the appropriate amount of

finish solution is distributed to the garments as a fine mist during the

rotational tumbling in an enclosed device such as garment wash/dye machine

or a modified tumble dryer. To assist in allowing the finish solution to be

evenly distributed throughout the garments, the rotation is altered between

forward and reverse during the spraying cycle. This allows for the garments to

become re-oriented, thus permitting a greater possibility for uniform

application. After the spray application is complete, the garments continue to

rotate to allow for the migration of the finish from high to low concentrated

areas. This time of equilibrations will depend upon the nature of the garments,

the amount of resin solution applied the rate of spray mist (drop size and

spraying profile). After the equilibration is complete, the garments are the

processed by the normal sequence of tumble-drying pressing and oven curingor tumble drying, curing and then pressing.

h f d ddi i


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Bath Recipe For 100 gms garment for metered addition process:

Products Shirting Trousers

Tristar-L-112/Tristar-ULF 4 4.5 6 7

Modfinish-HDNI/ Sylast-TSI 3 4 4 5

licone softener 1.5 2.5 2 4

(Luballen-AH-30/Dermasil-LIQ)Altranol-84 0.1 0.1

Catalyst-CR 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7

Water 67.5 55.9 59.3 47.2

Total 90 90


100 gm weight garment is taken in the machine and then 45 gm. of the above solution is added and

exhausted in the machine for 10 mins., the rest 45 gm. bath is added and exhausted for 20 mins and

then garment is :

Step-II:

The garment is hydro-extracted to about 75-80% wet pick-up. The level of wet pick-up will depend

primarily upon the construction of the fabric.

Step-III:

Tumble-drying the impregnated garments is a critical step. If the area to be creased becomes too dry

and hot, some curing may take place. The problem with this partial pre-curing is that it will inhibit

the formation of sharp crease. Moisture in the area to be creased should not fall below 10-12%.


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Step-IV:

PRE-CURE PROCESS

Curing: After tumble-drying curing the garments in the balloon

form in the curing chamber at 160-150C for 5-10 mins.

(Temperature depends on products and fabrics)

Pressing: This is to bring a plain smooth surface and a firm crease

on the cured garment. Temperature should be around 170-190C

POST CURE PROCESS

Pressing: Hot head press After tumble-drying the garments are

pressed to bring a plain smooth surface and a firm crease on the

garment. Temperature should be around 170-190C.

Curing: After pressing garments are cured in curing chamber at 160-

165C for 5-10 mins. (Temperature depends on products and fabrics)


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ADVANTAGES OF THE METERED ADDTION PROCESS:

Process include the use of simplified equipment, no waste, no effluent, no

contamination of the finish bath, no contamination of the finish bath, no

depletion of individual components, the use of premixed finish solutions and

the ability to perform wet on wet processing.

AQUAREPEL An option in the CELLXTRA system

Recently, the use of fluorocarbon polymers in the manufacture of high-

quality, trendy fabrics especially for trousering has become more and

more common. With its surface-AQUAREPEL types, LNC offers speciality

products that confer additional water-, oil- and soil-repellent properties tothe textile.

water

fc

oil soil

fc fc fc

Fibre

Water- and oil-repellency through AQUAREPEL-fluoropolymers


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AQUAREPELThe invisible fibre protection system

Preserves colours and fabrics

Makes textiles dry faster

Makes fabric care childs play

water-repellent

Oil- and soil-repellent

Breathable

Resistant to washing and dry

cleaning

Weather proof

After washing, it is recommended to iron the textile in order to re-activate the

protection system

Not only factors like brand, cut, colour, design, etc., but also the wear properties of

the textile play a decisive role in the customers decision to buy.


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Wrinkle resistance combined with stain resistance

Method-I

Bath recipe for Dip Hydroextract Process :

Products Shirting TrouserTristar-L-112/Tristar-ULF 5 6 8 9

Modfinish-HDNI 3.5 4 4

Dermasil-SFC / Dermasil-FC 2 - 3 2 4

Aquarepel-XC/conc 2 4 2 6

Catalyst-CR 0.5 0.6 0.8 0.9

Water 88.9 87.3 84.1 82


Bath recipe for metered addition process:

Products Shirting Trouser

Tristar-L-112/Tristar-ULF 4 5 6 7

Aquarepel-XC/conc 2 4 2 6

Dermasil-SFC / Dermasil-FC 2 - 3 2 4

Modfinish-HDNI 3 4 4 5

Catalyst-CR 0.4 0.5 0.6 0.7

Water 78.6 73.5 75.4 67.3Total 90 90
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LNC provides a product system that meets individual demands and offers quick

and flexible process solutions

No. Product Ionic Nature Product character

I Low formaldehyde cross linking agent

Tristar-L-112 Non-ionic/Weakly cationic Low formaldehyde based resin

Tristar-ULF Non-ionic/Weakly cationic Low formaldehyde based resin

Tristar-GH Non-ionic to weakly anionic Non formaldehyde based resin

Tristar-F Non-ionic to weakly anionic Non formaldehyde based resin

II Catalyst

Catalyst-CR Non-ionic Co-catalyst

III Softening agent

Dermasil-SIN Non-ionic Silicone softener (very low yellowing)

Luballen-AH-30 Non-ionic Silicone softener (non-yellowing)

Dermasil-LIQ Non-ionic Silicone softener (very low yellowing)


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No. Product Ionic Nature Product character

III Softening agent

Dermasil-SFC Non-ionic Fluoro carbon compatible softener

Dermasil-FC Non-ionic Fluoro carbon compatible softener

IV Stain and water repellant

Aquarepel-XC/conc Non-ionic Fluoro carbon base product

Aquarepel-XAN Cationic Highly efficient durable, Fluoro carbon extender

V Secondary polyolefin additives for improving abrasion and tensile resistanceModsoft-PE Cationic Improves sewability and abrasion resistance

Modfinish-HDNI Non-ionic to weakly cationic Improves sewability and abrasion resistance

Sylast-TSI Nonionic to weakly Cationic Improves sewability and tensile strength

VI Polyurethane

Permafin-UR Amphoteric Excellent inner softness, peach like effect

Permafin-ZF Nonionic to weakly cationic Excellent inner softness & full hand


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L. N. CHEMICAL INDUSTRIES

OFFICE ADDRESS :-

403, Antariksh, Makwana Road,

Marol Naka,

Andheri (E), Mumbai 400 059

Tel.- 91- 22- 4221 6789 (30 Lines)

91- 22- 6692 4112

Fax -91-22- 2836 6434

FACTORY ADDRESS :-

D- 14 /10, T.T.C. M.I.D.C Industrial area,

Turbhe , P.O.K.U.Bazar,

Navi Mumbai 400 705

Tel.-91- 22- 4141 9899 (30 Lines)

Fax -91- 22- 4141 9888

Email ID [email protected]

[email protected]
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