Build Your Own CNC Milling Machine - Instructables

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Build Your Own CNC Milling Machine

by BonJiba

Now that I'm retired, I have time to create things thatI've always wanted to, like this CNC milling machine. Idid a lot of research here on Instructables, whichprovided me a lot of ideas of how I wanted mine tolook and work. I have no experience in this area, so theproject itself was fun and enjoyable to see if I couldactually do it! My goal was to make one that wasaccurate, reliable, with a reasonable work area andcheap as possible. Accurate, yes, it can retrace thesame path over and over, consistently. Reliable, notsure yet as I have only been using it for a month or so.Work area 32.5" by 18.5". Cheap, perhaps, all in at $400excluding laptop which I already had.

By the way I already have an ANET A6 3D printerwhich I love. So I gured how hard can this be, LOL!

My main goal for submitting this instructable is not toprovide every single step (that's too complicated forme), but to help inspire those out there with the

interest and passion to do so, as so many have donefor me.

Again, I'm no expert, just a hobbyist as many of youare and have a lot to learn yet. The choices I madehere may not be right for everyone, but worked forme.

Supplies:

1/2" MDF

Supported Rails and Ball Screws

Arduino UNO, GRBL Shield

NEMA 17 Steppers

Dewalt 660 cutout tool

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Step 1: Tools

I decided to make mine out of 1/2" MDF since itscheaper than extruded aluminum. Thus, I only neededconventional wood working tools. I used a table saw,miter saw, drill and bits and a drill block forperpendicular holes, since I don't have a drill press.

3D Printer is optional; I designed and printed many

little pieces like brackets, etc. Many of those could bemade out of wood or metal brackets from thehardware store.

A soldering iron to solder all the wire.



Step 2: The Mechanical Build

Because this is my own design I had no plans to follownor did I create any. The rails dictated what the size ofthe unit would be. The Y rails are 1000mm, X rails are600mm and the Z rails are 300mm.

I started with the base and built a torsion style boxwhich makes it very rigid and strong. I would cut apiece of 1/2" MDF and keep adding to the puzzle.There are ribs or reinforcements anywhere its neededto keep the MDF from exing. There is no ex in theentire machine

The base was easy...now to all the other tidbits...

To get 25 holes drilled with some sort of accuracy Iwould draw the board layout in Fusion 360 and print

the 2D drawing on a standard computer printer inactual size. I would then use a center punch to markthe center of each hole and then use a hand drill todrill them out as seen in the 3rd and fourth pictureabove.

After it was all together, I took it all apart and put acouple coats of polyurethane on it, those are thepieces in the seventh picture.

An im po rt a nt no t eAn im po rt a nt no t e : I took a considerable amountof time making sure everything was perfectly alignedand square to each other, especially the rails. This waythere was absolutely no binding and everythingmoved very smoothly.



Step 3: Electrical

Since the gantry, etc. slid with such ease I decided totry NEMA 17 motors (only 92 oz. holding torque). Withthose motors I can move any axis at 3200mm/min or125 inches per minute and cut at 1600mm/minwithout the motors missing a step. I haven't tried tocut any faster as that seems fast enough for me.

I used an Arduino UNO, running GRBL and a CNCGRBL Shield with 8825 drivers. I had no experiencewith an Arduino (again, I'm old, LOL), but there aremay instructables here that will teach you!

I did however design a board with 4 opticouplers to

prevent false triggers on the limit switches and Z-probe as seen in the second picture. So all that, plusan emergency switch and fan was packed into thatlittle box.

I ran all the wires in cable drag chains, motor and limitswitches together thus the need for the opticouplerisolation.

I used a 20V - 7A laptop type power supply for all themotors, etc. The actual draw is only about 2 Amps.

I used a Dewalt 660 cutout tool since its half the price

of a trim router, has the same capabilities and comeswith both 1/8" and 1/4" collets. I removed the nosecone and designed and 3D printed the mount for thetool.

I made a slide out drawer and mounted a dockingstation for the laptop. I use a wireless keyboard withbuilt track pad as a remote pendant.



Step 4: Software

I use Fusion 360 to design my models and use theirbuilt-in CAM to set up the tool paths. I run CNCjs onthe laptop which sends the g-code to the Arduino.CNCjs can use a USB connected camera to display thepicture right in its user interface. Again, I'm no expertas these are the only programs I have ever used. Theyseem to meet my needs.

Of course the CNC is out in the garage, so instead ofwaiting out there, I use remote desktop software tosee the desktop of the laptop from inside my houseon my desktop PC. I can then see how much time isleft and see it actually milling too.


Step 5: Finishing Touches

I then realized I had no place to put the CNC machineand it weighs in at 120 pounds, so I had to build arolling base. Then after working with it brie y, Irealized it made way too much dust and noise. I

gured I could address both of those with a cover. Ibought art foam board at the dollar store and created

a hinged cover that tilts back. Its much quieter andthere is no more dust outside of the box! Inside its amess, LOL. I also milled the removable fence, camclamps and hold-down clamps on this machine.



Step 6: Conclusion

I thought I would have to redesign and rebuild thisseveral times to get it right, but luckily I haven't. Itworks just ne for me. I still have a lot to learn aboutmodeling, bits and tool paths. But in the mean time Ihave designed and created these projects. The rsttwo pictures are a laptop stand and the rest are someplaques. The video is this machine milling some HDPE.I milled these ags and have it published in anotherInstructables - Click Here

Again, its almost impossible to provide every detailand plans since so many of the items depend on eachother as you build it. But please let it be known that itcan be done as so many others have made similarones.

Thanks for viewing and if I can answer any questionsplease ask.


https://www.instructables.com/id/CNC-American-Flag-With-User-Defined-Parameters

This is fantastic! I am a highschool student (definitely not retired), but I may try to make a similarmachine. I wish I had the templates for all your parts, but going off the pictures, I hope I can getsimilar results.

Great job with this!!!

Thanks, I wish I had templates too, LOL. Basically everything was designed in my head aroundsome components I had. So every part is customized to every other part. So, If anything in thatchain of parts changes it affects everything down the path. So I was very patient and progressedforward slowly making sure it fit my overall plan. But feel free to hit me up with any questions inyour process. Thanks and good luck!

Love this project and have similar background but in digital areas of electronics. I have all theelectronics and steppers ready and like your base frame design. I used Arduino Mega and Marlinsoftware with Nema 23 steppers. Although I have a frame to use I think your sliding gantry is abetter design. Great project thanks, and keep up the good work!!

Sorry I posted my question on the wrong section. It’s a very neat project. Very inspirational ��.Keep up the good work /G\

https://youtu.be/LwBuTgBlDNs


One suggestion: print a vacuum shoe for the router, and connect your shop vac while milling, thatwill greatly improve the dust collection Here's a bunch: https://www.thingiverse.com/tag:dust_shoe

Thanks...that will be next then!

GREAT JOB!....

Thanks...

Tanks for a really nice tutorial. I can't wait to get retired some day (most likely not until 30+ years:).Can I ask what the total budget for the project was? Regards

My budget and what I spent were not quite the same, LOL. I was hoping to do it for about $300, butI spent $400 dollars to make the CNC, including the router, electrical and all hardware, everything,except the rolling cart and enclosure which was probably only another $40. Thanks

How do you keep it from drilling into the bed?

I have a replaceable spoil board on top of the platform. The spoil board has T-nuts inserted fromthe bottom side that I can use with either the cam clamps or hold downs. The only time it can cutdown into the bed (spoil board), is If I'm cutting down through the stock. To get my spoil board tolast longer I usually use something very thin under the stock and I only cut down below the stockabout 0.2mm. I hope that answered you question

I absolutely LOVE this! Great job! I've been wanting to build one.

Thanks...

Thanks!

Really like the look of this! I'm also researching to make my own, once I get "the workshop"finished.


Build Your Own CNC Milling Machine - Instructables

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