Brown Sauces: Sauce Espagnole, Demi-Glace & Jus Lié “This is the Espagnole sauce, having reached the limit of perfection...”- Escoffier, (referring to demi-glace)
Jan 15, 2016
Brown Sauces:Sauce Espagnole, Demi-Glace & Jus Lié
“This is the Espagnole sauce, having reached
the limit of perfection...”-
Escoffier, (referring to demi-
glace)
Sauce Espagnole Generally not used directly but refined into a
demi-glace or other sauce Developed from a French brown sauce by
adding Spanish tomatoes…the early 1600’s Brown Sauce, made by reducing brown stock
with a dark roux and tomato product Tomatoes are optional but do deepen the
stock’s color
Making Sauce Espagnole Make a 1# of Brown Roux Caramelize 2# Mirepoix or Pinçage (Roasted
or Sautéed Mirepoix) Roast the ½# Tomato Product Add the Roux, Mirepoix, Tomato & Bouquet
Garni to 5-Qts. Veal/Beef Stock in a Stockpot and Simmer 1-2 hrs
Skim Frequently Reduce to Sauce Consistency Strain
Mirepoix vs. Pinçage
Mirepoix Pinçage
2x Onion, 1x Carrot & 1x Celery
Sweetness from onion and carrot
Herbaceous notes from celery
Light and vegetal Luke
Mirepoix plus… Tomato product Caramelized by
roasting or sauté More assertive
flavors Used in brown
sauces and stocks Vader
Demi-Glace 50% Sauce Espagnole + 50% Brown Stock, Reduced
by 50% May be used as a finishing sauce or (more commonly)
as a base for other sauces Alternate Liaisons
Arrowroot Cornstarch Potato Starch
A “natural” demi-glace or glace de viande is thickened by reduction only (no roux) Natural Demi-Glace reduced by 80% Glace de Viande reduced 90-95%
Reduction vs. Thickening with a Liaison Reduction is usually preferred for taste and
consistency Reduction equals a lower yield thus higher
cost A roux or other liaison increases yield Liaisons may adversely affect flavor, texture
or add additional calories and fat.
Sauce Consistency
Thin ConsistencySauce or Nappé Consistency
Notice the coating on the
spoon
Making Demi-Glace (Classic) Combine 1 quart of Espagnole with 1 quart
Brown Stock Simmer, Skim and Reduce by 50% -90% Mushroom Stems may be added during
simmering Finish with a splash of Madeira, Port or Sherry
(optional)
Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.1) Roast Veal Breast (Ribs) with Mirepoix Dégraisser, Deglaze and add all to stock pot Cover with cold water Simmer 5-12 hours. Depouillage. Reduce, season and strain
Making Demi-Glace (Modern v.2) Reduce Brown (Veal) Stock by ¾ or sauce
consistency Requires a stock with abundant gelatin
aka., Glace de Veau, Glace de Viande
Jus Lié, Fond Lié or Jus de Veau Lié Alternative to a Demi-Glace…lighter and easier Commonly Used in Restaurants as “Demi” Brown Stock Reduced with a Pinçage (Caramelized
Mirepoix and Tomato Product) Sometimes thickened with cornstarch or arrowroot Or, thickened by reduction only…requires an abundance of
gelatin
“What’s Gravy?” Starch-thickened and de-fatted natural juice from a
roast…aka, “jus lié” In England, just a jus, not thickened In New England, a thick tomato sauce as in
“Sunday Gravy” Some Types:
“Red-Eye” gravy, made from ham drippings and deglazed with coffee (Southern)
“Sawmill” gravy, a white gravy…essentially a béchamel seasoned by the meat in the frying process…as in chicken-fried steak or a sausage gravy (Southern)
Onion Gravy Giblet Gravy, …the only reason to eat turkey!
Sauce Tomate:Tomato Concassée & Tomato Coulis French Tomato Sauces are usually a secondary
component Classic Italian or Spanish Tomato Sauce are base sauces
flavored around a mirepoix or soffrito Tomato Concassée
Concasser: “to crush, break, or grind” Peeled and Seeded and Chopped Raw or Barely Cooked
Best for In-Season-Ripe Tomatoes
Cooked Slowly simmered for 5-10 minutes THEN…strain to remove excess liquid (As
opposed to cooking all the down and destroying texture and delicacy.)
Tomato Coulis Smooth purée strained of seeds and peel Raw or Cooked
Tomato Sauces
French Italian
Classically thickened with a roux
Uses a white stock, veal or chicken
Uses pork bones or other pork products
No Roux Simmered with few
ingredients Oregano & Basil are
commonly added
Improving the Flavor of Tomato Sauces Use the best, ripest, fresh tomatoes.
Or a good canned tomato…ie, San Marzano Avoid overcooking the tomatoes The better the tomato the less need for other
ingredients Herbs, meats, stock, etc.
Use roasting as a means to concentrate tomato flavor and add caramelization flavors
Balance both sweetness and acidity with sugar and vinegar or add a gastrique Gastrique: caramelized sugar deglazed with
vinegar; used to flavor tomato or savory sauces
Canned Tomato Products Tomato Puree
Briefly cooked tomatoes and strained resulting in a thick liquid
Tomato Sauce Thinner than puree and may have seasonings and
flavorings Tomato Paste (Tomato Concentrate)
Tomatoes that have been cooked several hours, strained and reduced to thick concentrate. Generally fairly sweet.
Whole or Diced Peeled, seeded and whole or diced. Uncooked.
Crushed Unregulated description…may have seeds or peels and
varying percentages of tomato
Canned Tomato Products con’t. Sweetness (ripeness) varies
Salt is added to bring out the sweetness Citric Acid
Preserves and corrects acidity Calcium Chloride
Maintains a firm texture too much equals metallic taste and "rubbery" texture
Color is NOT necessarily a good indicator of tomato taste. Taste is.
Quick Cooking vs. Slow Cooking Tomato Sauces
Marinara* Ragu
Quick (20 Minutes) Fresh Tomato Taste Lacks Complexity
Long Cooking (Hours) Complex Flavors Usually Includes
Meat and a Soffritto*Originally, a slow-
simmered tomato sauce from Naples. Italian-American Marinara is
generally a quick, fresh tomato sauce or, salsa al
pomodoro
Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Finely Dice Onion and Émincé Garlic
Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Puree and Tomatoes through a Food Mill or Passatutto (Removes skin & seeds.)
Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Sweat Onions and then Garlic
Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Add the Tomato Paste and Sauté (Turns a shade darker)
Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Add the Tomato Puree and Season
Making a Basic Tomato Sauce
Simmer 30-45 minutes. Finish with fresh basil and splash of olive oil. Check
seasoning for sugar, salt, acid & pepper.
Next Week’s Midterm: (Discuss) Cauliflower Soup
Each student makes 1 quart using only: cauliflower, WATER, butter, onion, shallot, garlic, thyme,
bay leaf and cream.
Chicken Soup with Matzo Balls and Vegetables Each student makes 1 quart
From week one’s recipes
Clam Chowder Each student makes 1 quart
Use a clam broth to make a clam veloute Ingredients are limited to clams, clam juice, potatoes,
butter, cream. Salt and pepper.
Today’s Lab: Espagnole Classic Demi Glace Demi Glace (Modern) Tomato Sauce, French
Coulis De Tomates À La Provençale (Tomato Sauce with Mediterranean Flavors)
Chicken Provencale (Poulet à la provençale) Miso Soup and Dashi